The Best of the Big Apple

Home , Fort Tryon Park, Hotel Beacon, Liberty Island, Michael Lomonaco

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004_487273-ch01.indd4_487273-ch01.indd 1 99/22/09/22/09 110:49:060:49:06 AMAM 1 e all have our personal tastes: what we like to listen to in terms of music, what kind of food we enjoy, what we relate to in art and architecture. Personal Wtaste is a subjective matter, and I (Brian) only pay attention to raves, whether they are for a restaurant, artist, musician, or ﬁ lm, if they are universal. If everyone likes it, it has to be good. Well, not always. Anyway, we’ve (Brian Silverman, Kelsy Chauvin and Richard Goodman) compiled our personal favorites below . . . for what we can call the “best of” in many areas from experiences to restaurants. You may not agree, but that’s what makes these “best of” lists fun. Just don’t take them too seriously.

most unforgettable Most Unforgettable New York City Experiences York New Unforgettable Most

NEW YORK CITY EXPERIENCES

W Sailing to the Statue of Liberty, on Liberty Island in New York Harbor: If you have time to do only one thing on your visit to New York, sail to the Lady in the Harbor. No other monument embodies the nation’s—and the world’s— notion of political freedom and economic potential more than Lady Liberty. It is also the ultimate symbol of New York, the personifi cation of the city’s vast diversity and tolerance. And, as of July 4, 2009, you can once more ascend to the Lady’s crown, for the fi rst time since September 11, 2001. See p. 269. W Visiting the Empire State Build- THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE THE BEST ing Observatory at dusk: The Empire State Building, once again the tallest building in New York, is one of the city’s defi nitive icons. Arrive at dusk and watch the lights of the city come on. It’s pure magic. See p. 257. W Walking the Brooklyn Bridge: Manhattan has fi ve major bridges connecting the island to other shores, and the most historic and fascinating is the Brooklyn Bridge. For a close-up look at what was a

PREVIOUS PAGE: Christmas at Rockefeller Center is the most dazzling season.

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9 0 3 THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE Most Unforgettable New York City Experiences : 1 9 4 :

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9 0 / 2 2 / 99/22/09 10:49:09 AM Okay, you don’t even have to you don’t Okay, This marvelous part of New York, full of York, This marvelous part of New This might not sound so unforgettable, but Don’t be afraid of the subways. Go underground, Don’t Take a walk across this famous Harlem boulevard, a walk across this famous Harlem Take Walking the Brooklyn Bridge. the Brooklyn Walking : 3

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d MetroCard in hand, and use the fastest means of transport in the city. On the of transport in the city. MetroCard in hand, and use the fastest means refurbished you might see music, art, even history in many of the city’s way, stations. jog it. You can walk the jogging path around the Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis can walk the jogging You jog it. the views of Central Park Park, Reservoir and take in the beauty of Central the skyline of midtown Manhattan. See and especially Avenue, Fifth West, p. 310. restaurants, the stalls selling everything from homemade CDs to bean pies,restaurants, the stalls selling everything from is relentless. and the street prophets and musicians. The energy and your senses will be overwhelmed with the music, the variety of stores, theand your senses will be overwhelmed with the Traveling underground: Traveling in the early morning: TriBeCa Sunday Morning in New York: in New Morning Sunday 125th Street: Walking marvel of civic engineering when it was built in 1883, and a true New York York in 1883, and a true New marvel of civic engineering when it was built Brooklyn (or vice versa!). Seeexperience, walk across from Manhattan to p. 255. Reservoir: Park the Central Jogging around to experience the city minus the noise and activity is something special. I’veto experience the city minus the noise and activity Europeans, wandering thenoticed quite a few tourists, usually jet-lagged parks and streets early Sunday mornings. large, brick, rust-colored warehouses and cobblestone streets, looks likelarge, brick, rust-colored warehouses and sun playing off its rich surfaces.Monet painted it in the morning with a strong to my mind. York, This is the heart of the heart of New n i

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004_487273-ch01.indd4_487273-ch01.indd 5 99/22/09/22/09 110:49:100:49:10 AMAM 1 NEW YORK’S best MUSEUMS W Best Overall Museum: American Museum of Natural History. You can spend your entire visit to New York at this 4-square-block museum; there is that much to see. From the famed dinosaur halls to the Hall of Ocean Life, the Museum of Natural History houses the world’s greatest natural science collection. See p. 253. W Best Art Museum: Metropolitan Museum of Art. Not just the best art museum in New York, but the best in North America. The number of master- works is mind-boggling. See p. 260. New York’s Best Museums Best York’s New

THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE THE BEST

The Rose Center for Earth and Space at the The Museum of Modern Art. Museum of Natural History.

W Best-Looking Museum: Museum of Modern Art. Though the sight of the Guggenheim is the most memorable, and the New Museum of Contemporary Art is oddly attractive, MoMA’s $450-million renovation makes it the coolest- looking museum, inside and out, in town. See p. 263. W Best Art Museum that People Outside New York Love to Tell You They Love the Most: The Frick. I (Kelsy) have met more Europeans in my trav- els who tell me their favorite museum in New York is the Frick. It’s stately, restrained, gorgeous, elegant and very tasteful—how some Europeans see themselves. And I adore it, too. See p. 278.

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1 1 7 THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE Best New York City Buildings : 1 9 4 :

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9 0 / 2 2 / 99/22/09 10:49:11 AM ts from being a work ints from being Despite all the steel-and- There is no observation deck, but There is no observation Cathedral of St. John the Divine. of St. Cathedral St. John the Divine: a masterwork in progress. St. John the Divine: a masterwork NEW YORK CITY NEW YORK Start here and get a feel of what the city is like—from past to present.the city is like—from and get a feel of what Start here 7

d d There are always fascinating exhibits. See p. 285. fascinating exhibits. There are always Construction began on the world’s largest Gothic cathedral in 1892 and it’s it’s largest Gothic cathedral in 1892 and Construction began on the world’s beneﬁ still going on. But this is one structure that progress. See p. 306. and it’s been preserved almost exactly as it was when he died in 1971. See as it was when he died almost exactly been preserved and it’s p. 358. This unassuming house in Queens was Satchmo’s home for almost 30 years home for almost was Satchmo’s house in Queens This unassuming Most Impressive Place of Worship: of Worship: Place Impressive Most Best Historic Building: Grand Central Terminal. Central Building: Grand Historic Best Building. The Chrysler Skyscraper: Best Best New York Museum about New York: Museum of the City of New City of New of the Museum York: about New Museum York New Best York. House Museum. Armstrong a Museum: The Louis Home Posing as Best glass skyscrapers, there are still many historic marvels standing, and the best are still many historic marvels standing, and glass skyscrapers, there was restored in theArts gem. This railroad station, built in 1913, is this Beaux brilliance. See p. 259. 1990s to recapture its this Art Deco masterpiece is best viewed from outside or from other observa- masterpiece is best viewed from outside Art Deco this p. 299. See Empire State Building’s. tion decks, such as the n i

. 1 W W W W W 0 h c BUILDINGS The Chrysler Building presides over a New York York a New over Building presides Chrysler The evening. best - 3 7 2 7 8 4 _ 4 004_487273-ch01.indd 7 1 best NEW YORK CITY PARKS W Central Park. Period. One of the world’s great urban refuges—a center of calm and tranquillity among the noisy bustle that is Manhattan. See p. 310. W RIverside Park. This 4-mile-long park along Hudson River is a welcome alternative to the sometimes-overcrowded Central Park. W Battery Park. At the island’s southern tip, walk the promenade and marvel at the harbor with Lady Liberty standing sentinel. See p. 319. Best New York City Parks York New Best

best PLACES IN NEW YORK CITY TO TAKE THE KIDS W Central Park: With its carousel, a zoo, two ice-skating rinks and pools (de- pending on the season), playgrounds and ball ﬁ elds, Central Park is a children’s wonderland. See p. 310. W Bronx Zoo Wildlife Conservation Park: This is one of the great zoos in the world—and you don’t have to be a kid to love it. See p. 338. W New York Hall of Science: This Queens museum, in Flushing Meadows– Corona Park, has hands-on exhibits that thrill preschoolers on up. The sur- rounding park offers a carousel, zoo, and boat and bike rentals. See p. 337. W THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE THE BEST Coney Island: It’s not a theme park (yet!), just an old-fashioned amusement park on the beach. Nearby is the NY Aquarium, Keyspan Park, and Nathan’s Hot Dogs. What more could a kid, want? See p. 348.

FROM LEFT: Eye-to-eye with a prairie dog at the Bronx Zoo; the Wonder Wheel at Coney Island.

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2 1 : THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE Best Neighborhoods to Stroll in New York City 9 1 9 4 :

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9 0 / 2 2 / 99/22/09 10:49:12 AM Stroll the busy streets of Chinatown. streets the busy Stroll With museums, parks, some old buildings and With With its his- With A designated ers runners exquisite views of Manhattan. views ers runners exquisite With the relentless With NEIGHBORHOODS TO TO NEIGHBORHOODS 9

d d toric streets, hidden cafes, cozy restaurants, and eccentric charac- is a con- ters, Greenwich Village stant, but pleasant, barrage on the senses. brownstones, inexpensive restaurants, and a residential feel, this is my favor- brownstones, inexpensive restaurants, and a ite neighborhood to stroll. Brooklyn Heights: Brooklyn Chinatown: The Upper West Side: The Upper West Village: Greenwich and mansions. But best of all is the view of Manhattan and New including the Statue Harbor, York from Brooklyn Height’s of Liberty, famous promenade. historic district, on your stroll you will be awed by the pristine con- dition of 19th-century row houses ideal strolling territory, but it’s so but it’s ideal strolling territory, worth braving the colorful, it’s mobs. activity and crowded sidewalks, Chinatown might not seem like n i

. 1 W W W W 0 h c best CITY IN NEW YORK STROLL The Brooklyn Promenade off Promenade Brooklyn The - 3 7 2 7 8 4 _ 4 004_487273-ch01.indd 9 1 best THINGS TO DO FOR FREE (OR ALMOST) IN NEW YORK W Ride the Staten Island Ferry: The Staten Island Ferry is used daily by thou- sands of commuters. Ride it for a great view of the Statue of Liberty, Ellis Island, New York Harbor, and the lower Manhattan skyline. You can’t beat the price: free. See p. 268. W Attend a Gospel Service: All around New York, you’ll ﬁ nd Sunday gospel services, but for some special soul-stirring, head to Harlem and the Abyssinian Baptist Church or Brooklyn and the Brooklyn Tabernacle. Services are free, but when the basket is passed, don’t be stingy. See p. 305 and 348. W Visit Free Museums: Believe it or not, there are museums in New York that don’t charge admission. Two of my favorites are the National Museum of the American Indian and the Federal Hall National Memorial. See p. 288 and 304. W Take in a Game at the West 4th Street Basketball Courts: On West 4th Street and Sixth Avenue, you’ll ﬁ nd the legendary public hoops courts. I don’t Best Things to Do for Free (or Almost) in New York in New Almost) (or Free Do for to Things Best

know what’s more entertaining: the moves on the court or the inventive trash

talk accompanying the games. W Walk. Anywhere: New York City is the most walkable city in the world that I know of. Since most of it is planned on the grid system, it’s hard to get lost THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE THE BEST

Take a free ride on the Staten Island Ferry.

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4 1 : THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE Best Offbeat New York Experiences 11 1 9 4 :

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9 0 / 2 2 / 99/22/09 10:49:14 AM nd a better way to get to Ride the Roosevelt Island Tram. Ride the Roosevelt With the demise of Little Italy in Manhat- With Impress your family and friends with a spectacular How many cities can claim their own Museum of Sex? Not How many cities can claim their own Museum OFFBEAT NEW YORK NEW YORK OFFBEAT 1 1

d d too many! We got your Museum of Sex right here . . . but you must be 18 or got your Museum of Sex right here . . . but you too many! We See p. 284. older to enter. Roosevelt Island Tram: Roosevelt Visit the Little Italy of the Bronx: the Visit Museum of Sex: it all began over 400 years ago, then strolling up Broadway, the only street in up Broadway, it all began over 400 years ago, then strolling can actually You to the other. Manhattan that goes from one end of the island would probably done briskly, walk the entire length of Manhattan, a walk that, a thirteen and a half mile hike, by the way! take you about six hours. That’s (except in the West Village, where it’s fun to get lost). Avenues go north and go north Avenues lost). fun to get where it’s Village, (except in the West will never ﬁ You south, streets go east and west. where I would recommend starting at the foot of the city, York. know New tan, the area around Arthur Avenue, known as the Little Italy of the Bronx, is Avenue, Arthur tan, the area around and ambience. the place for old-fashioned Italian charm, food, view of the skyline from the Roosevelt Island Tram. During the 4-minute view of the skyline from the Roosevelt Island Tram. views with ride, you will be treated to a gorgeous vista down the East River, Manhattan, and of the United Nations and the Queensboro, Williamsburg, Brooklyn bridges. See p. 268. n i

. 1 W W W 0 h c EXPERIENCES best Admission is free at the National Museum of the is free Admission American Indian. - 3 7 2 7 8 4 _ 4 004_487273-ch01.indd 11 1 W Bike Along the Hudson River: If walking is not enough exercise for you, a good alternative is to rent a bike and ride the length of Manhattan via the work-in-progress Hudson River Park. As of this writing, you can bike from Battery Park to Fort Tryon Park, near the George Washington Bridge. There are detours along the way, which occasionally take you off the paths. For bike-rental info, see p. 316. W Take a Food Tour: Mmmmm! You’ll ﬁ nd lots of groups that offer tours centered around food, and it’s a fantastic way to learn about a speciﬁ c neighborhood. What could be better than seeing Brooklyn by way of its pizzerias, or exploring Harlem by sampling African, Caribbean, Latin American, and soul foods Best Days in New York’s Other Boroughs York’s in New Days Best along the way? Brooklyn’s Prospect Park.

W Ride the International Express: The no. 7 train is sometimes known as the “International Express.” Take it through the borough of Queens (where it runs aboveground for most of its length), and you will pass one ethnic neighborhood after another, from Indian to Thai, from Peruvian to Colombian, from Chinese to Korean. W Bastille Day in the city: That’s July 14, for you non-Francophiles. There are a few French restaurants that hold their little celebrations that day, and they can be a lot of fun. Provence, in SoHo, is one. They turn the street in front of the restaurant into a sand-ﬁ lled court for playing boules, that French game of tossed steel balls that is both dull and endlessly fascinating. Well, have a glass of wine and sing La Marseillaise instead. THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE THE BEST best DAYS IN NEW YORK’S OTHER BOROUGHS W In the Bronx: Spend the morning at the Bronx Zoo (p. 338) or the New York Botanical Garden (p. 341), and then head to Arthur Avenue, the Little Italy of the Bronx (see “Best Offbeat New York Experiences,” above), for an authentic Italian feast. W In Brooklyn: You can take a look at what’s on at the always-exciting Brooklyn Museum of Art (p. 347), then get some fresh air with a stroll in nearby, lovely Prospect Park (p. 352). Cap it off with a sandwich and a slice of cheesecake at Junior’s (p. 218), on Flatbush Avenue. Or, head for Coney Island, whose face will change forever within the life of this book. Go in the summer, hit the beach, the amusement park, the Aquarium, Nathan’s Famous Hot Dogs, and/or maybe a Cyclones baseball game. It’s a schlep, but one you will never forget. See. p. 348. W In Queens: Take the 7 train, the International Express (see “Best Offbeat New York Experiences,” above), to the Queens Museum of Art (p. 358), 12

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6 1 THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE Best Splurge Hotels in Manhattan : 13 1 9 4 :

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9 0 / 2 2 / 99/22/09 10:49:16 AM 212/308- or 212/956- 212/344-0800; or 212/966-6060; www. Louis Armstrong Armstrong Louis House 800/262-9467 (2 West St.; (2 West (50 Central Park South; (50 Central Park 888/918-6060 cent views of the Harbor and all its trea- Ritz-Carlton service istted rooms, and excellent 7 train. proximity of the no. nd within close (700 Fifth Ave.; Ave.; (700 Fifth (147 Mercer St.; (p. 358). If it’s the right time of year, take in a Mets game or wander take in right time of year, the it’s (p. 358). If SPLURGE HOTELS IN IN HOTELS SPLURGE www.ritzcarlton.com): The combination of a great location across from The combination www.ritzcarlton.com): 3 1

d replaces, all with ceiling fans and luxurious bathrooms, are spectacular. See fans and luxurious bathrooms, are spectacular. replaces, all with ceiling d The Ritz-Carlton New York, Battery Park Battery York, New The Ritz-Carlton The Mercer York The Peninsula–New Ritz-Carlton New York, Central Park Central York, New Ritz-Carlton on the grounds of the 1964 World’s Fair, or the Fair, World’s the 1964 grounds of on the Museum a meal at any of the your way back, stop for of the U.S. Open. On the grounds you will fi ethnic restaurants 9100; large well-outfi Central Park, 135. as good as it gets. See p. www.ritzcarlton.com): For magnifi For www.ritzcarlton.com): this hard to top every level, it’s sures, not to mention impeccable service on Ritz. See p. 120. mercerhotel.com): The best of the hip, downtown hotels, the Mercer is in best of the hip, downtown hotels, the Mercer mercerhotel.com): The with high-ceilinged, loftlike rooms and suites, some the heart of SoHo. The fi p. 125. 2888; http://newyork.peninsula.com): The combination of old-world elegance2888; http://newyork.peninsula.com): The combination in this practically perfect hotel.and 21st-century technology is best realized See p. 150. n i

. 1 W W W W 0 h c Lush accommodations at the Gramercy Park Hotel. Park at the Gramercy Lush accommodations best MANHATTAN - 3 7 2 7 8 4 _ 4 004_487273-ch01.indd 13 1 W Gramercy Park Hotel (2 Lexington Ave.; 212/920-3300; www.gramercy parkhotel.com): Hotelier Ian Schrager and artist Julian Schnabel took a run- down 1925-built legend and restored it to contemporary grandeur. It feels like you’re staying in an eclectic museum, but a very comfortable one. See p. 131. W The Carlyle, A Rosewood Hotel (35 E. 76th St.; 800/227-5737 or 212/744-1600; www.thecarlyle.com): You are in rareﬁ ed territory when you stay in the Carlyle. Service is white-gloved and rooms are sumptuous. Many have incredible views of the city and Central Park. And don’t forget Café Carlyle for cabaret and Bemelmans Bar for a cocktail. See p. 162. W The Lowell (28 E. 63rd St.; 212/838-1400; www.lowellhotel.com):

Best Moderately Priced Hotels Priced Moderately Best Although smaller and more intimate than the Carlyle, the Lowell is just as el-

egant and romantic. Rooms are all unique; many have ﬁ replaces, while some have good-size terraces. See p. 163. best MODERATELY PRICED HOTELS W Casablanca Hotel (147 W. 43rd St.; 888/922-7225 or 212/869-1212; www.casablancahotel.com): In the Theater District, the Casablanca offers clean, well-outﬁ tted rooms at value rates, as well as nice extras such as complimentary breakfast, bottled water, free high-speed Internet, and a roof deck perfect for a cocktail on a balmy evening. See p. 143.

THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE THE BEST W Hotel Metro (45 W. 35th St.; 800/356-3870 or 212/947-2500; www. hotelmetronyc.com): You’ll ﬁ nd good deals and lots of extras at this Midtown hotel that’s popular with Europeans. See p. 145.

You must remember this...the Casablanca Hotel.

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8 1 THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE Best Incentives for Hotel-Hopping : 15 1 9 4 :

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9 0 / 2 2 / 99/22/09 10:49:18 AM (66 Park (66 Park 800/227- 800/222- tel.com): This tel.com): or 212/463-0330; www.nuhotelbrooklyn. www.soﬁ or 212/787-1100; www. (1568 Broadway; 877/387-2323 718/852-8585; 212/354-8844; or 212/245-5000; www.parkermeridien. 800/572-4969 in the Carlyle (35 E. 76th St.; http://kitano.com). Each of the three one-bedroom (131 W. 23rd St. 23rd St. W. (131 800/543-4300 (45 W. 44th St.; (45 W. (2130 Broadway; oor of childproof suites, complete with living rooms for spreading oor of childproof suites, complete with living (85 Smith St.; Brooklyn (85 Smith INCENTIVES FOR INCENTIVES FOR HOTELS FOR FAMILIES HOTELS 212/885-7000; or 212/719-1600; http://doubletree1.hilton.com): This hotel boasts or 212/719-1600; http://doubletree1.hilton.com): or 212/744-1600; www.thecarlyle.com). Named after illustrator Ludwig or 212/744-1600; www.thecarlyle.com). 5 1 York New tel

d d relatively new hotel exudes old-world (French) elegance. And you should beAnd you elegance. old-world (French) relatively new hotel exudes 141. weekend packages on the Internet. See p. able to score some good Ave.; beaconhotel.com): Not only is this hotel a great deal—you can get good-sizebeaconhotel.com): Not only is this hotel a great with its parks, Side, West suites for much less than in Midtown—the Upper and fun, inexpensive restaurants, is a great the Museum of Natural History, neighborhood for children. See p. 159. com). Hidden off the lobby, this joint has been discovered by locals, so the com). Hidden off the lobby, be- fabulous (see “Best Burger,” lines are long, but worth it. The burgers are low) and under $6. See p. 139. (118 W. 57th St.; (118 W. Best Hotel Bar: Bemelmans Bar, Bar: Bemelmans Hotel Best Best Inexpensive Hotel Restaurant: Burger Joint in Le Parker Meridien Parker Joint in Le Burger Restaurant: Hotel Inexpensive Best Best Hotel Suite: Town-House Suite in the Kitano New York New in the Kitano Suite Town-House Suite: Hotel Best Doubletree Guest Suites Times Square Times Suites Guest Doubletree Soﬁ Beacon Hotel Nu Hotel Inn on 23rd Street 23rd Inn on 5737 TREE an entire ﬂ kid- also just a block from It’s out and kitchenettes for preparing light meals. p. 137. “R” Us superstore. See friendly chain restaurants and the Toys com): Hotel construction is booming in Brooklyn and the best of the few that in Brooklyn and the construction is booming com): Hotel Nu Hotel. Close to downtown Brooklyn, residentialhave already arrived is the and Cobble Hill, Boerum Hill, and Carroll Gardens, nabes Brooklyn Heights, lines that Street . . . and near to all major subway the restaurant row of Smith the Nu Hotel, with its in-room hammocks quickly, can get you to Manhattan Brooklyn location. and bunk beds, is the perfect suites in the town house that is part of this hotel features a hallway leading tosuites in the town house that is part of this hotel stereo system, and aa sunken living room with original art, a state-of-the-art tea maker with green tea. See p. 152. www.innon23rd.com): You cannot do better than this charming inn for top- than this charming cannot do better You www.innon23rd.com): designed, but all are rustic and uniquely and extras. Rooms notch quality served in a lovely is complimentary and amenities. Breakfast have up-to-date 128. See p. library. n i

. 1 W W W W W W W W 0 h c best HOTEL-HOPPING best - 3 7 2 7 8 4 _ 4 004_487273-ch01.indd 15 1 Bemelmans, who created the Madeline books and painted the mural, this romantic, charming bar features white- gloved service and classic cocktails. For more on Bemelmans, see p. 458. W Best Hotel for a Romantic Tryst: Hotel Elysée (60 E. 54th St.; 800/ 535-9733 or 212/753-1066; www. elysee hotel.com). This lovely old hotel, a favorite of mid-20th-century writers and actors, is discreetly dwarfed be- tween two mammoth ofﬁ ce buildings and is the perfect romantic hideaway in the middle of Manhattan. See p. 152. Bemelmans Bar off ers cocktails and murals. W Best Hotel Swim-Up Bar: Grace Room- Mate Hotels (125 W. 45th St.; 212/ 354-2323; www.room-matehotels.

The Most Unforgettable Dining Experiences Unforgettable Most The com). There is much to like about the Grace, but I love the fact that it has

a swimming pool—in the lobby—with a swim-up bar. You can’t ask for much more in the middle of Manhattan. See p.144. W Best New Hotel: The Greenwich Hotel (577 Greenwich St.; 212/941- 8600; www.thegreenwichhotel.com. Robert De Niro’s baby located in TriBeCa is a beauty complete with Japanese-inspired pool and a gorgeous lobby, not to mention the best free minibar in New York. W Best Hotel View not in Manhattan: Hotel Le Bleu (370 4th Ave., Brooklyn; 718/625-1500; www.hotellebleu.com). Look past the nearby U-Haul ga- rage and the murky Gowanus Canal just below and you’ll see the skyline of lower Manhattan, the Statue of Liberty, the F train as it snakes into Manhattan and, looking east, the rooftops and churches of Park Slope. THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE THE BEST THE most unforgettable DINING EXPERIENCES W The River Café (1 Water St., Brooklyn; 718/522-5200; www.rivercafe. com): At the foot of the Brooklyn Bridge, there is no better dining view of Manhattan. Go at twilight as the lights of downtown begin to ﬂ icker on. Though the food at restaurants with views is usually not great, you won’t be disappointed by the fare here. See p.235. W Aquavit (65 E. 55th St.; 212/307-7311; www.aquavit.org): Though its new digs are not nearly as charming as its former town-house setting, the service and the food are as good as ever. See p. 214. W Big Wong King (67 Mott St.; 212/964-0540): Come here for the true Chinatown experience. You’ll share tables with Chinese families, order bowls of congee with fried crullers, plates of stir-fried vegetables, and platters of roast pork and duck—all served by brusque no-nonsense waiters. I guarantee it will be unforgettable. See p. 178.

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THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE Best Bites for All Appetites 17 1 9 4 :

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9 0 / 2 2 / 99/22/09 10:49:18 AM 212/254- 212/496- 718/599-8899; www.rubbbq.net). www.rubbbq.net). ): Spend an hour in an hour ): Spend www.doublecrown-nyc.com). www.doublecrown-nyc.com). www.scarpettanyc.com). Chef www.scarpettanyc.com). and you he is making yours, nally (483 Amsterdam Ave.; (483 Amsterdam Ave.; (205 E. Houston St.; 212/524-4300; 718/258-1367 212/254-0350; 212/691-0555; at Le Parker Meridien Hotel (118 W. 57th St.; W. Meridien Hotel (118 at Le Parker at Le Parker Meridien Hotel (118 W. 57th St.; W. Meridien Hotel (118 at Le Parker (208 W. 23rd St.; (208 W. www.parkermeridien.com). Who woulda thunk that a www.parkermeridien.com). www.parkermeridien.com). Though I am not a devotee of www.parkermeridien.com). (316 Bowery; (1424 Ave. J, Brooklyn; J, Ave. (1424 (355 W. 14th St.; (355 W. (319 Graham Ave., Williamsburg, Brooklyn; Williamsburg, Ave., (319 Graham BITES FOR ALL BITES FOR ALL NEW RESTAURANTS NEW www.katzdeli.com). This is the choice among those who know their This is the choice among those who www.katzdeli.com). www.goodenoughtoeat.com). They’ve been lining up on Amsterdam They’ve been lining up on www.goodenoughtoeat.com). 7 1

d 212/708-7414; 212/708-7460; d Best Burger: Burger Joint, Burger Burger: Best Best Jewish Deli: Katz’s Delicatessen Deli: Katz’s Jewish Best Best for Breakfast: Good Enough to Eat Good Enough to Breakfast: for Best Brunch: Norma’s, for Best Best Barbecue: RUB Best Double Crown Scarpetta Motorino DiFara Pizza DiFara crowd. See p. 195. Co-owner Paul Kirk brings his Kansas City pit prowess to New York, with York, Kansas City pit prowess to New Kirk brings his Co-owner Paul a little bit of everything for a big the “Baron,” mouth-watering results. Try here, just top-notch Jewish classics. See p. 182. 2246; named for celebritieskreplach, knishes, and pastrami. No cutesy sandwiches 0163; bounti- over 20 years for chef/owner Carrie Levin’s every weekend for Avenue on vacation; go dur- You’re line? ful home-cooked breakfasts. But why wait in ing the week. See p. 229. I say! With that, I welcome with open arms the delicious creations made in that, I welcome with open arms the delicious I say! With brick oven. Motorino’s www.motorinopizza.com). Can one city have too many good pizzerias? “No,” Can one city www.motorinopizza.com). fancy hotel such as Le Parker Meridien would be the home to a “joint” that Meridien would be the home to a “joint” that fancy hotel such as Le Parker serves great burgers at great prices? See p. 217. brunch, I make an exception for Norma’s. Skip the traditional breakfast items brunch, I make an exception for Norma’s. asparagus-and-seared-rock-lob- and go for creative interpretations such as the ster omelet. See p. 208. nondescript, often grimy Di Fara and watch as Domenico DeMarco slowly, slowly, as Domenico DeMarco and watch often grimy Di Fara nondescript, until ﬁ makes one pizza at a time laboriously you’ll ever have. the most sublime pie privilege of tasting have the supreme The food of the British colonies was never this good back when the British colonies was never this good back when the The food of the British companyThe dining rooms, designed by famed design had all those colonies. even more palatable. make the food (and amazing cocktails) AvroKO, Scott Conant wows the crowds, recession be damned, at this upscale Italian crowds, recession be damned, at this upscale Scott Conant wows the and foie gras ravioli is the ultimate in decadence. where the sublime duck n i

. 1 W W W W W W W W W 0 h c best APPETITES best - 3 7 2 7 8 4 _ 4 004_487273-ch01.indd 17 1 W Best Pizzeria: Patsy’s Pizzeria (2287 First Ave.; 212/534-9783; www. patsyspizzeriany.com). This great East Harlem pizzeria has been cranking out coal-oven pizza since 1932. You can also order by the slice here, but only do so if the pie is fresh out of the oven. See p. 208. W Best Pizza in an Italian Restaurant: La Pizza Fresca Ristorante (31 E. 20th St.; 212/598-0141; www.lapizza Best Bites for All Appetites for Bites Best

fresca.com). The Italian menu and

wine list is vast, but you won’t spend much time on it after you’ve sampled the restaurant’s magniﬁ cent, authentic Neapolitan pizzas straight out of their own wood-burning oven. See p. 201. W Best 20th-Century Steakhouse: Frankie & Johnnie’s (32 W. 37th St.; 212/947-8940; and 269 W. 45th St., 212/997-9494; www.frankiesand johnnies.com). Whether you choose Patsy’s Pizzeria was a Sinatra favorite. the former speak-easy that is the origi-

THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE THE BEST nal location in the Theater District or the newer branch in John Barrymore’s former town house, your steak, particularly the house sirloin, will remind you why Frankie & Johnnie’s has been around since 1926. See p. 203. W Best 21st-Century Steakhouse: Porter House New York (10 Columbus Circle; 212/823-9500; www.porterhousenewyork.com). New steakhouses sprout every year with much hype; this one in the Time Warner Center and helmed by chef Michael Lomonaco distinguished itself far ahead of the pack of new steakhouses. See p. 221. W Best Mutton Chop: Keens Steakhouse (72 W. 36th St.; 212/947-3636; www.keens.com). Of course, it might be the only restaurant in New York that offers a mutton chop, but that’s not the only reason to head to Keens. The other “chops” are fi rst-rate, and the rooms—there are several—are like museum pieces without the stuffi ness. See p. 204. W Best Greek Restaurant: Kefi (505 Columbus Ave.; 212/873-0200; www. kefi restaurant.com). In a new and expanded space and now taking reservations and credit cards, Kefi is not only the best Greek restaurant in Manhattan, but also one of the least expensive. You won’t believe basic Greek taverna food could be so good. See. p. 226. W Best for Families: Virgil’s Real BBQ (152 W. 44th St.; 212/921-9494; www.virgilsbbq.com). In Times Square, Virgil’s, in a sense, is a theme restaurant, the theme being barbecue, but they do an excellent job of it. It’s loud, colorful, and has great options for children. See p. 209.

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9 1 THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE Best Shopping in New York City : 19 1 9 4 :

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9 ). 0 / 2 2 / 99/22/09 10:49:19 AM ). They’re 212/799-0243 212/932-2052 (Fulton Ferry Landing Pier, Landing Pier, (Fulton Ferry (2090 Broadway; For versatility, Saks is consistently good, versatility, For This store is the pinnacle, with prices to (2788 Broadway; ). The perfect reward after a brisk walk across the). The perfect reward after a brisk walk across 718/246-3963 SHOPPING IN SHOPPING IN 9 1

d d Brooklyn; displays at Christmas. See p. 380. and less overwhelming than other big stores. And don’t miss those window And don’t and less overwhelming than other big stores. Best Clothes Store: Barneys. Clothes Store: Best Best Store: Saks Fifth Avenue. Store: Best Best Ice Cream: Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory Cream Ice Brooklyn Cream: Ice Best Bagels Bagel: Absolute Best Best Cheap Meal: Gray’s Papaya Cheap Meal: Gray’s Best Brooklyn Bridge. Rich homemade ice cream, with a view of the ManhattanBrooklyn Bridge. Rich homemade ice cream, a tough combination to beat. See p. 238. skyline; it’s match. See p. 377. Though the $4.45 “recession special”—two hot dogs and a fruit drink—isThough the $4.45 “recession special”—two But is it any good? still a bargain. it’s almost a $1 increase from last year, the lines out the door every day for lunch. See p. 177. Witness perfection. See p. 200. not huge like some bagels these days, but they are always hot and baked tonot huge like some bagels these days, but they n i

. 1 W W W W W 0 h c best CITY NEW YORK Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory. Cream Ice Brooklyn - 3 7 2 7 8 4 _ 4 004_487273-ch01.indd 19 1

FROM LEFT: Barneys holiday windows are a NYC Best Culture & Nightlife in New York in New & Nightlife Culture Best favorite. Russ & Daughters is a delicious destination.

W Best Vintage Store: Beacon’s Closet. Its two Brooklyn shops stock some of the best, most affordable clothing in town. See p. 386. W Best Shopping Zone: SoHo, NoHo & Nolita. Three neighborhoods together create the best single area for roam- ing and shopping among the newest, trendiest boutiques. See chapter 8. W Best Bookstore: Bluestockings. This “radical bookstore, fair-trade cafe, and

THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE THE BEST activist center” on the Lower East Side packs a lot of literature and activity into its Allen Street storefront. See p. 383. W Best Old-World Italian Food Store: DiPalo’s Dairy. This 1910-originated store is one of the last vestiges of Old Little Italy, and is still in the DiPalo family. See p. 394.

W Best Old-World Jewish Food Store: Russ & Daughters. This smoked-ﬁ sh purveyor has been a mainstay on the Lower East Side since 1914 (or 1908, if you count its push-cart days). Like DiPalo’s above, the Russ family has been in charge since the beginning. See p. 396. best CULTURE & NIGHTLIFE IN NEW YORK W Best Performance Space: Carnegie Hall. One of the world’s great performance spaces, with an array of world-class talent on display almost every night. See p. 428. W Best Free Cultural Event: Shakespeare in the Park. Imagine Shakespeare performed by stars, under the stars, in Central Park. No wonder it has be- come a New York institution. See p. 432. 20

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THE BEST OF THE BIG APPLE Best Culture & Nightlife in New York 21 1 9 4 :

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9 0 / 2 2 / cent 99/22/09 10:49:21 AM apper enter at anyapper enter For children ages 4 to 9, this 4 to 9, children ages For Comfortable and sophisticated, Acoustics and sightlines aren’t aren’t Acoustics and sightlines This venue draws big names to its expan- draws big names to its This venue Manhattan’s best Manhattan is served up Manhattan’s This Williamsburg, Brooklyn bar is ground This Williamsburg, in the Ritz-Carlton Battery Park Hotel. With Hotel. With in the Ritz-Carlton Battery Park in the Gramercy Park Hotel. This magniﬁ Hotel. This in the Gramercy Park A true anomaly for the ritzy Upper East Side,A true anomaly Inn. bway An old hanger-on in chic SoHo, this old joint continues to in chic SoHo, this old joint continues An old hanger-on 1 2

d d group performs in the winter and offers tales told in imaginative and original offers tales told in imaginative in the winter and group performs 416. ways. See p. great, but you can’t do better for real-deal jazz. See p. 443. for real-deal jazz. do better can’t great, but you this is where the best come to hone their acts. See p. 445. this is where the best come moment. See p. 456. in this classic Deco lounge, where you’ll expect to see a ﬂ in this classic Deco lounge, Best Beer Bar: Spuyten Duyvil. Beer Bar: Spuyten Best Rise Bar, Bar with a View: Best Bar, Bar: Rose Exclusive Best Best Pub: Ear Inn. Pub: Best Bar: Su Dive Best Best Rock Club: The Bell House. Club: The Rock Best Club. Club: Gotham Comedy Comedy Best Lounge. Flatiron Cocktail: Best Best Children’s Theater: Paper Bag Players. Bag Paper Theater: Children’s Best Vanguard. The Village Jazz Club: Best sive and versatile Park Slope, Brooklyn, music hall. See p. 437. Slope, Brooklyn, music hall. See sive and versatile Park survive among the lush lounges that surround it. See p. 452. survive among the lush views of Lady Liberty, the harbor, and lovely sunsets. See p. 450. the harbor, views of Lady Liberty, and expensive cocktails, is worth groveling to enter. See p. 456. enter. and expensive cocktails, is worth groveling to room with its Schnabel originals, incredible sound system, beautiful people,room with its Schnabel originals, incredible the Subway Inn is the place to come if you’re nostalgic for duct-tape-coveredthe Subway Inn is the seating. See p. 457. zero for beer geeks. Enjoy a draft at this place and enjoy the killer jukebox. Seezero for beer geeks. Enjoy a draft at this place p. 462. n i

. 1 W W W W W W W W W W 0 h c How do you get to Carnegie Hall? get to do you How - 3 7 2 7 8 4 _ 4 004_487273-ch01.indd 21