The Impact of in North Macedonia Rock Climbing

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CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing in North Macedonia

THE IMPACT OF ROCK CLIMBING IN NORTH MACEDONIA

August 2020

1 THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

ABOUT THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

The Climbing Initiative is a Colorado-based nonprofit supporting climbing communities worldwide. Through research, community engagement, and partnerships, we bring together organizations invested in the future of climbing and develop best practices for supporting the growth of climbing in emerging contexts. We believe rock climbing can empower individuals, create new sources of livelihood, and foster the development of a more sustainable and equitable world.

climbinginitiative.org

Cover photo by Goran Kuzmanovski Natalija Ristevska climbing the Krali Marko highball boulder in Prilep

Design by Mario Minchevski behance.net/mDesign | @mario.minchevski

Photographers Goran Kuzmanovski | @goran.kuzeto Keti Talevska | @keti_talevska Cosima Vom Meer | @cosivmeer Veronica Baker | @vero.baker

CONTENTS

1 Summary

2 Introduction

4 History

9 Economic Impact

13 Social Impact

15 Enviromental Impact

18 Challenges & Opportunities

23 Recommendations

25 Conclusions

3 THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

4 Biljana Talevska climbing in Demir Kapija

Photo by Goran Kuzmanovski CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing in North Macedonia

SUMMARY

North Macedonia counts approximately 1,300 sport climbing and bouldering routes, but locals estimate that 90 percent of the country’s climbing areas remain undiscovered.

Although the country carries a strong tradition of mountaineering, climbing is still in an early stage of development, marked by little public understanding of the sport.

The Macedonian government is enthusiastic about promoting outdoor tourism. Some areas, such as Prilep and Demir Kapija, experience a steady flow of climbing tourists, but others have yet to capitalize on the rocks in their backyard.

Mountain sports have had a significant social impact as a unifying force among ex-Yugoslavian countries and a tool for positive psychosocial development.

Trash and environmental degradation are serious issues in North Macedonia, and some hope that outdoor sports like climbing will inspire Macedonians to develop a more intimate relationship with nature.

To fulfill its potential as a top climbing destination, North Macedonia must see increased public awareness of climbing, institutional support, publicity, and collaboration between the mountain sports federations.

Photo by Goran Kuzmanovski SUMMARY THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

INTRODUCTION

North Macedonia, a country nested in STUDY OBJECTIVES the Balkans, is an emerging climbing destination. Its rich history of moun- The Climbing Initiative conducts case taineering acts as a foundation for the studies on climbing areas and com- growth of sport climbing and boulder- munities at varying stages of devel- ing in the modern era. The country is opment around the world. We believe home to a small but dedicated group that communicating patterns in the of climbers and it welcomes a respect- context of climbing worldwide has the potential to change how organizations and communities interact around climbing-related issues. North Macedonia, a country nested in STUDY AREA the Balkans, is an North Macedonia (known as emerging climbing Macedonia before 2019) is a country destination in the heart of the Balkan Peninsula in Southeastern Europe, which gained independence from Yugoslavia in 1991. The 25,713-square-kilometer able number of European climbing (9,928-square-mile) landlocked country tourists to its most popular boulders is neighbor to Kosovo, Serbia, Bulgaria, and crags each year. While the popu- Greece, and Albania. It is home to 2.08 larity of climbing has excellent poten- million people, a quarter of whom live tial to grow in North Macedonia, a lack in the capital and largest city, Skopje. of public awareness and understand- North Macedonia is blessed with ing of the sport holds it back. This case remarkable natural wonders, from high study sheds light on this lesser-known mountain massifs to expansive national climbing destination and provides rec- parks and one of the oldest lakes in ommendations to help it flourish. Europe. This study was conducted at several sites, including Skopje,

INTRODUCTION CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing in North Macedonia

BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA SERBIA

MONTENEGRO CROATIA KOSOVO BULGARIA

NORTH MACEDONIA ALBANIA ITALY BISLIMSKA KLISURA SKOPJE GREECE KADINA MATKA MAVROVO PLOCHA NORTH MACEDONIA DEMIR KAPIJA PRILEP Mavrovo National Park, Demir Kapija, OHRID Prilep, Ohrid, Zli Dol, and Lake Prespa. PELISTER BITOLA ZLI DOL METHODOLOGY PRESPA

In August 2019, The Climbing Initia- tive conducted a case study on the study employed snowball sampling impacts of rock climbing in North and semi-structured interviews. Macedonia. The principal research- ers, Ludivine Brunissen and Veronica SUPPORT Baker, carried out interviews with a variety of climbers, business owners, This study was supported by funds government officials, and others with from the Jackson Institute for Global knowledge of the impacts of climbing Affairs at Yale University. in the country. Interview questions focused on the history of climbing in CONTACT North Macedonia; its economic, social, and environmental effects; rela- The Climbing Initiative welcomes feed- tionships between local businesses, back and opportunities for future re- municipalities, climbing developers, search. We would love to hear from and tourists; challenges they currently you. Please feel free to reach out to face; attempts to address those chal- [email protected] or find us on lenges; and hopes for the future. The Instagram at @theclimbinginitiative.

INTRODUCTION THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

Adam Ondra establishing Czech Trip (9a+) in Mavrovo Cave Photo by Dimitar Popov HISTORY

MOUNTAINEERING AND THE sport route, Jumbo Jet (7a), was not EMERGENCE OF CLIMBING bolted until 1990 by Vladimir Trpovski and Lazar Lazarov. Today, there are still Rock climbing is a relatively new phe- fewer rock climbing clubs than moun- nomenon in North Macedonia, despite taineering clubs, but the numbers are the country’s rich history of mountain- steadily increasing. Goran Nikoloski, eering spanning more than a century. President of the Mountain Guide Com- While organized rock climbing began mission of North Macedonia, believes in the country in the 1970s, the first “interest is really growing for climbing

HISTORY CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing in North Macedonia

and other extreme sports,” fueled by After almost 50 years as one of the six the country’s recent economic growth republics of the Socialist Federal Re- and political stability. “Psychologically, public of Yugoslavia, the Republic of we weren’t very open to tourists. There Macedonia declared independence on was the war in Bosnia, and there were September 8th, 1991. While Macedo- some political problems in 2001, but nians are proud of their newly indepen- now everything is improving. Kosovo dent country, many look back fondly on and Serbia still have some issues, but their Yugoslavian past. Ilina Arsova, an it is calmer now, which leads to more accomplished climber, mountaineer, interest in sports and tourism.” and the first Macedonian woman to reach the Seven Summits, reminisces Despite this, the development of climb- about her country’s historical athletic ing in North Macedonia has been achievements with nostalgia. “It seems slow-paced compared to its neighbors like there was a great sports culture in Greece, Slovenia, and Bulgaria. Natali- the time of Yugoslavia, which we don’t ja Ristevska, a member of the climbing have now. So it was somehow lost in club Vertical Bitola, attributes this to lo- this time,” she said. Arsova attributes cation: “We were part of the same coun- this shift to poor physical education in try in Yugoslavia, but Slovenia is really schools, the loss of partnerships with Photo by Dimitar Popov close to Austria and Austrians had a big other ex-Yugoslavian countries, and a impact there. I think their mental state is general feeling of stagnation experi- still Balkan, but they try to be like other enced by some Balkan countries fol- European countries, and they managed lowing the Yugoslav wars. well, really well.” Jovica Ugrinovski, President of the Mountaineering Feder- ation of North Macedonia, believes that financial support from the government has also played an important role in the rapid development of climbing in countries such as Greece, “because the local community saw that they can benefit by developing climbing in the region. Greek clubs are very well supported financially by the local authorities and the government,” he said. “This has started Macedonian mountaineers ascending Mount Shara in 1929 in Macedonia, and I hope it will be better and better in the future.” Photo by Federation of Mountaineering Sports of Macedonia

HISTORY THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

Three independent bodies govern DEVELOPMENT OF SPORT mountain sports in North Macedonia: CLIMBING the mountaineering federation (focused on high-altitude hiking and the While traditional climbing grew natu- management of mountain huts), the rally from the longstanding populari- alpinism federation (focused on tech- ty of mountaineering, sport climbing nical mountain ascents), and the sport developed slowly from a self-funded, climbing federation (focused on bolt- do-it-yourself approach that persists ing, competitive climbing, and the de- in the country today. “We saw the first velopment of crags and artificial walls competition on an indoor climbing wall throughout the country). The organi- on TV, and I said ‘Why don’t we try this zations were joined as one until their here?’ So we made the first sport climb- split in 2010, driven by a desire to clar- ing route, in Matka,” said Trpovski. “We ify distinctions between disciplines. In were working for three months, with no the eyes of Vladimir Trpovski, who has drills. It was an expedition.” been the President of the Sport Climb- ing Federation of North Macedonia The more recently developed climb- for eight years, the sport climbing and ing areas of Mavrovo and Kadina are mountaineering federations still benefit the crown jewels of the sport climb- from a close relationship today. How- ing federation’s bolting efforts, featur- ever, a distinct rivalry has arisen with ing spectacular limestone caves. “In the alpinism federation, stemming from Macedonia, we did not know about grievances developed during the split. the world-class standard [for climbing], and now, with Mavrovo and Kadina, we do. We just dreamed about this, to have this kind of style with over- hanging routes, tufas, etc.,” said Dim- itar Popov, Owner of Ski Hut Gorica, Founder of climbingschool.mk, and one of the leading climbing developers in North Macedonia. Reminiscing about the discover of Kadina’s striking roof, he added, “it’s one of the pictures in my head that I hope I will never lose Some of the country’s oldest in my lifetime.” Mavrovo Cave was routes are found at Lake Matka made famous by Adam Ondra’s visit Photo by Veronica Baker in October 2018, during which he sent

HISTORY CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing in North Macedonia

Macedonian Trip, a 9a project bolted for climbing, because it’s a valley with by Slovenian Clemen Becan in 2015, a town. You can stay there, eat, sleep, and established a 50-meter long 9a+ and climb. Other places are not so big. route, which he named Czech Trip. For example, Mavrovo is perfect, but it’s not for beginners. It’s challenging to Popov has been using events such as climb there, and the rocks are difficult climbing festivals and outdoor climbing to approach. But maybe in 15 years or competitions to drive the development so, Mavrovo could become a mecca for of Mavrovo, Demir Kapija, and Kadina. climbers who climb 8a and up. I think On August 2nd, 2014, he organized the Mavrovo will be the future for high-lev- first Epic Challenge competition, a year el climbers.” after the first few routes were bolted in Mavrovo Cave. The event featured a competition for the first ascent of a nat- “I think Mavrovo ural rock traverse route, Separatizam (7b), and was attended by approximate- will be the future ly 48 climbers from North Macedonia, for high-level Serbia, Bulgaria, and Western Europe. climbers” “I decided to organize this competition because these kinds of events encourage us to work more. The competition is the last day, but before that we need CURRENT STATE OF CLIMBING IN to build stairs, the via ferrata, etc.,” said NORTH MACEDONIA Popov. “So these kinds of competitions are first for promotion and second for Despite the widespread availability of boosting development.” North Mace- climbing in North Macedonia, Trpovski donia hosts several climbing festivals estimates the number of active local each year, which help increase both climbers to be only around 200. Rock local and international interest. climbing has not seen the same expan- sion as other outdoor sports like hik- Trposvki believes the lack of easy ing, biking, and trail running. According routes and the secluded nature of to Ugrinovski, climbing is beginning to some crags have prevented North gain momentum in schools, thanks to Macedonia from reaching its potential the development of indoor facilities. as a climbing tourism destination. “In The country now features ten climbing Macedonia, only Demir Kapija could gyms and a 57-meter-high outdoor ar- eventually be as famous as Greece tificial wall often used for competitions.

HISTORY THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

In addition to the world-famous boul- tion, it’s really sharp and different from dering site Prilep, North Macedonia the other limestone and granite,” said currently counts nine developed sport Ristevska. The sport climbing federa- climbing crags. The country’s larg- tion has been consistently expanding est sport climbing destination, Demir existing crags and developing new Kapija, boasts 475 single and multi- ones. Yet, Trpovski estimates that less pitch routes from 4 to 8c on tower- than 10 percent of potential climbing ing limestone cliffs surrounding the areas have been developed. Cosima picturesque Vadar River. Just over Vom Meer, who leads outdoor climb- an hour’s drive away, the textured, ing trips in Mavrovo National Park, coarse-grained granite boulders of sees North Macedonia as a valuable Prilep have been termed “Eastern alternative to more popular climbing Europe’s premier bouldering destina- destinations in Europe. “I’m sure that tion,” featuring 550 routes. “We have people will be interested in develop- really good granite that other coun- ing areas that are not so crowded. tries except for Bulgaria don’t have, in That is kind of the beauty of this place.” Prilep and Pelister. It has a lot of fric-

CRAGS IN NORTH MACEDONIA

Bouldering Sport, trad, multipitch PRILEP Granite, gneiss DEMIR KAPIJA Limestone 550 routes 475 routes

BISLIMSKA Trad PLOCHA/ Sport, trad, bouldering Limestone Granite KLISURA 73 routes PILAV TEPE 52 routes

Sport Sport KADINA Limestone OHRID Limestone 43 routes 55 routes

Sport Sport, trad MAVROVO Limestone MATKA Limestone 37 routes 83 routes

Sport Sport PRESPA Limestone PELISTER Granite, gneiss 10 routes 8 routes

HISTORY CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing in North Macedonia

The 57-meter high outdoor artificial wall in Skopje, built in 2011, attracts visitors and hosts climbing competitions

Photo by Qunica Studio ECONOMIC IMPACT

North Macedonia possesses abundant ment has recently increased its efforts natural resources and is becoming a to promote outdoor tourism, and local well-known outdoor tourism destina- businesses are starting to see eco- tion in Eastern Europe. “A lot of people nomic benefits. “I believe that climbing come to Macedonia for outdoor sports tourism has the potential to positively like hiking, biking, etc. because we transform the community’s social and have a lot of mountains which serve as economic health, and elevates commu- a good base for these activities,” said nity morale,” said Goran Kuzmanovski, Nikoloski. The Macedonian govern- President of Vertical Bitola.

ECONOMIC IMPACT THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

Trpovski estimates that over 1,000 climb- Demir Kapija, on the other hand, is seeing tourists visit North Macedonia each ing an increase in both international year. According to Ristevska, climbing and Macedonian climbers. Aleksander tourism in Prilep has grown dramatically Klenov, who runs Rock Land Camp, a in response to publicity from the 2014 climber’s campground in Demir Kapija, Petzl Rock Trip. Most of the boulderers attributes the area’s growing popu- she sees in Prilep are from other Euro- larity to its many well-bolted, begin- pean countries, including Germany, Slo- ner-friendly crags. “There has been a venia, and Poland. However, in other 10 percent increase in climbing tourists areas, the number of foreign climbing every year, but in the last two years, tourists has stayed relatively low. Vom we mostly get Macedonian climbers. Meer believes that “maybe only 10 per- On the weekends, the campsite is full cent maximum [of summer visitors to of Macedonian climbers. It’s starting Mavrovo] are rock climbers. Very few. to get more popular,” he said. “Only And actually, most of them are Balkan or climbers eat in restaurants here [in Macedonian, very few from abroad.” She Demir Kapija]. The tourist groups stay believes that publicly available informa- in hotels, eat in hotels, and don’t see tion about Macedonia’s climbing areas, the city,” he added. “Only climbers walk such as a guidebook, would greatly in- around and buy things from the shops. crease international visitation. The climbers buy from the community.” Ristevska believes that Demir Kapi- ja is currently the only place in North Macedonia where there is an understanding that climbers can benefit the local economy. “That’s actually how the town lives right now,” she said, noting that local restaurants have developed a special salad and other offerings specifically geared toward climbers.

Lazar Petrov, Mayor of Demir Kapija, sees climbing as an asset for his town. “Climbing is like killing two birds with one stone: sports and creating jobs,” he said. However, some people in Prilep draws climbers from all over the world Demir Kapija observe a problem with Photo by Goran Kuzmanovski economic benefits from climbing tour-

ECONOMIC IMPACT CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing in North Macedonia

ism reaching just a few individuals, often foreigners, instead of being equita- bly distributed among local businesses and the municipality. “Who is profiting from this whole thing?” asked Arsova. “One campground, a few restaurants maybe. Things are improving: some more accommodations for climbers are slowly opening up, but the whole community is not yet involved.” Petrov plans to develop a strategy for climbing tourism in the coming years that better engages the local community. “We are a bit selfish in the Balkan region, and people try to work by themselves,” he said, “but once we have a more organized form of tourism, we will function much better.”

Like climbing tourism, the economic impact of climbing gyms in North Macedo- nia is still small but growing. Unlike other European countries where the climbing gym market is booming, the Macedo- nian climbing community’s small size means gyms have been slow to devel- Vlatko Delovski and Stefanija op. Trpovski is the owner of Boulderbar, Jurukovska in Demir Kapija a 130-square-meter bouldering gym in Skopje. Despite a difficult start, the Photo by Keti Talevska gym now sees more than 110 first-time climbers monthly and counts more than to be out of their price range. “There 50 climbers with active memberships. is a lot of potential that can be grasped “This year, it’s much better, we have with climbing tourism,” concludes Pop- a minimum of 800 climbers per year,” ov, but to harness that potential, local said Trpovski. Unfortunately, even with businesses and authorities must coor- relatively low entrance fees, some dinate their efforts to support climbing Macedonian climbers consider gyms gyms and outdoor tourism.

ECONOMIC IMPACT THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

Natalija Ristevska and Mario Minchevski climbing in Pelister, which features walls of gneiss and granite

Photo by Goran Kuzmanovski CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing in North Macedonia

SOCIAL IMPACT

Many Macedonian climbers believe that Ugrinovski. “The clubs are a mixture, climbing can serve as a tool for unifying consisting of different ethnic groups. On ex-Yugoslavian countries and members the mountain, we are just mountaineers. of different ethnic groups in their coun- The greatest impact of climbing is that it try. “Yugoslavia was crushed in ‘91. We brings these groups together.” became the biggest enemies [...] But in the last ten years we have become so Climbing is credited with other positive friendly, we are like one country again. social effects in North Macedonia, in- Slovenians are coming in 4-5 buses to cluding psychosocial development in Prilep for climbing, twice a year. Serbi- youth. Darko Kaevski, Director of the ans are starting to come,” stated Trpovs- Agency for Youth and Sport of North ki. Youth competitions organized by the Macedonia, is a firm believer in the im- Macedonian Sport Climbing Federation portance of youth sports. “Sport is the have brought children from the Balkans biggest ambassador of our country,” he together to engage in a shared experi- said. “When I became director in 2017, ence. “Every third weekend of Septem- only 9 percent of the young population ber we have a competition for children practiced sports. Now, since the begin- from the Balkans. We have 174 children ning of 2019, somewhere between 25 coming from Macedonia, Greece, Tur- and 27 percent of Macedonian youth key, Bulgaria, Romania, and Serbia. It’s practice sports.” Around 80 students a tradition,” said Vane Naunov, Gener- participated in after-school climbing al Secretary of the Macedonian Sport programs in 2019, and the sport climb- Climbing Federation. Additionally, some ing federation hopes to grow these believe that climbing could help bridge programs further. Youth who are espe- cultural divides between North Macedo- cially passionate about the sport join nia’s many ethnic groups. “Macedonian local climbing teams, which compete is the majority. Albanian. Turkish. Bulgar- in a national league eight times per ian. Serbian. Vlach. Roma. It’s a mixture year. Naunov, who coaches Skopje’s of many ethnic groups. And different re- youth climbing team, has witnessed ligions. The majority are Orthodox, fol- firsthand the cognitive and emotional lowed by Muslims, and Catholics,” said growth that comes from youth partici-

Photo by Goran Kuzmanovski SOCIAL IMPACT THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

pation in climbing. “The most important For climbing to have a lasting social benefit is intelligence,” he says. “Then, impact and spread to more people in in addition to psychomotor benefits, North Macedonia, the public’s percep- the adrenaline and the focus can make tion and understanding of the sport you a better person.” must change. “This sport is not very loved here. You are crazy if you are Even though the climbing community is doing it,” said Markovski. According to still small, climbing has been a vehicle Ristevska, female climbers are espe- for personal growth and overcoming cially discouraged from pursuing the hardships for many Macedonians. Mem- sport: “Once I met a nurse, and when bers of the climbing club Vertical Bitola I told her that I was rock climbing, she emphasized the considerable impact of said that I have to take the bible with climbing on their lives. “When I started climbing, I had mild depression, so every climb was like a personal gain, like a ‘mission accomplished.’ I started appre- Climbing has ciating what I can do more,” said Biljana been a vehicle for Talevska. “I also love hanging out with personal growth people of a similar state of mind and being in nature,” she said. “When you and overcoming think about our future here, it’s not very hardships for many bright,” added Ristevska. She believes Macedonians climbing allows her to separate herself from the economic and political situa- tion of her country to focus on the pres- ent moment and overcome self-per- me, and I have to pray. She thought that ceived limitations. “The most important I shouldn’t go rock climbing because thing I’ve learned through climbing is to it’s not for girls.” Yet, “some of Vertical give back to the community,” said Mario Bitola’s best competition and outdoor Minchevski. “Create, work, and teach. climbers are our female members,” Share the experiences I’ve had over the said Minchevski. “I am super proud of years—both good and bad—and have a that because we, as a community, are positive impact.” Dimitar Markovski, an- breaking a barrier that used to give other member of Vertical Bitola, beauti- second thoughts to women who want- fully sums up the influence of climbing ed to climb [...] Society is starting to on his life: “I felt disconnected from ev- recognize the benefits of our sport and erything, and now I feel safe.” stereotypes are being broken.”

SOCIAL IMPACT CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing in North Macedonia

Mario Minchevski getting horizontal on the roof of Mavrovo Cave

Photo by Goran Kuzmanovski ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT

In some countries, climbing contrib- change the collective conscience re- utes to environmental stress due to an garding environmental degradation. influx of visitors. North Macedonia, on Vom Meer attributes this loss of en- the other hand, credits climbing with vironmental responsibility to a lack of having mostly positive effects on the exposure to the outdoors for Mace- environment by promoting environ- donians living in urban areas. She mental awareness. In a country strug- believes that outdoor sports can help gling with waste disposal, pollution, restore Macedonians’ feeling of con- and deforestation, outdoor sports can nection to nature and sense of stew-

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

do not understand, while supporting other environmentally degrading but more lucrative activities, including logging, Jeep safaris, and hunting. “We as climbers have the lowest environmental impact. We go there on foot. Those bolts were placed there 10 years ago and there is minimal main- tenance from time to time. We are the least dangerous for the environment,” said Arsova. Natalija Ristevska bouldering in Prilep As climbing tourism continues to grow Photo by Goran Kuzmanovski in North Macedonia, environmental management strategies are needed ardship over their public lands. “To to minimize climbers’ impact on the see the places that you normally don’t country’s abundant and diverse fauna. see, to have an appreciation for the “It might not yet be a problem here, but countryside and to also understand when more and more people come, it and observe changes in the environ- will have an impact on the wildlife and ment, can have a massive impact on the rock,” said Vom Meer. “By being on society,” she said. your own with the rock and feeling ex- posed to the forces of nature, you feel Mavrovo National Park has been wel- more respectful of it as well,” she add- coming of climbers due to their ‘leave- ed. To preserve North Macedonia’s no-trace’ ethics and care for the pristine nature for the next generation environment. In Demir Kapija, the en- of climbers and outdoor enthusiasts, vironmental impact of climbing is also public environmental awareness and largely positive, but better trail man- education must increase. The solution agement in climbing areas is needed lies in the implementation of fines for to protect the habitats of cliff-dwelling littering and fostering a sense of col- endangered birds. Galicica National lective responsibility in youth through Park has raised similar concerns over “school projects where [children] ac- the disturbance of wildlife by climbers tually go climbing, hiking, or do some- in Zli Dol. However, according to Arso- thing else outdoors,” said Von Meer. va, national park officials use this as “It’s education that needs to start from an excuse to prohibit a sport that they grass roots.”

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing in North Macedonia

Keti Talevska on an arête in Prespa

Photo by Goran Kuzmanovski THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

CHALLENGES & OPPORTUNITIES

LACK OF PUBLIC INTEREST IN According to Arsova, openness and CLIMBING inclusivity are vital to increasing the number of climbers in North Macedo- Despite the sport climbing federa- nia. “The climbing community needs tion’s push to develop more crags and to open up a little bit and change its open new gyms, the climbing commu- approach to promoting climbing to be nity in North Macedonia has not grown more interactive and collaborative with beyond 200 climbers. According to the wider community,” she said. Climb- Naunov, interest in sport climbing ing festivals and events at gyms have has actually dropped over the years. the potential to expose more people “When I was a beginner, there were to the sport. “In Boulderbar there are 30 of us in the gym in Stip, which is more and more film festivals, presen- unexplainable to me because nowa- tations, and bringing good climbers days, I don’t think the level of interest over to tell their stories; I think it’s quite is as good as it was 10 years ago,” he motivating,” added Arsova. “I think the said. “We have a lot of indoor gyms first step is to show [the community] and outdoor areas to climb. We have that climbing is a sport for everyone,” equipment, instructors, everything. remarked Naunov. But no interest from people,” he said. Arsova has similarly noticed that an PUBLIC CONFUSION ABOUT THE increase in outdoor climbing offerings CATEGORIZATION OF MOUNTAIN has failed to attract more climbers. “I SPORTS really wish to see the day when every time we go to Zli Dol on the week- Even though climbing will have its ends, it will be full,” she added. “We Olympic debut in 2021, Naunov said, “I have beautiful crags and routes, but if am sure that even now, a lot of key peo- we see anyone, it will be foreigners.” ple in the highest level of sport man- “I think there is plenty of room to im- agement in Macedonia do not know prove rock climbing and gain more what sport climbing is or that it exists in people and popularity, but it’s a long our country. They’re talking about sport journey,” concluded Naunov. climbing, alpinism, and mountaineering

CHALLENGES & OPPORTUNITIES CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing in North Macedonia

all as one thing.” As a result, “it is difficult to explain to the Agency of Sport, who is who,” said Nikoloski. This blurring of disciplines has resulted in concerns over sport climbing’s safety, by asso- ciation with alpinism, which has limited youth participation. “Sometimes there are good kids, but the parents have a bad opinion of the sport,” said Arsova.

THE COLLECTIVE “MINDSET” Dimitar Markovski AMONG CLIMBERS in Jorgov Kamen

Many of the climbers with whom we Photo by Keti Talevska spoke emphasized the Macedonian climbing community’s mindset as one In Macedonia, a lot of people think only of the main things holding it back. Spe- from their point of view. They’re not cifically, they cite a lack of motivation to seeing the big picture,” he said. push one’s limits and invest in the sport compared to other communities in the Naunov believes that the key to main- Balkan region. “Very rarely today do taining passion for climbing among you want to push your limits or are real- young people as they age is to create ly motivated to train hard and make it a a supportive, motivating environment. priority in life,” said Arsova. According “Climbing is both a social sport and a to her, this stems from a lack of institu- competitive sport. With my kids, I am tional support and personal motivation. forming groups of similar ages so that “It is the support from a country and an they have things in common, I am moti- encouraging community which make a vating them to climb harder, and I climb difference.” Based on his experience with them to show them that the routes as a youth climbing coach, Naunov is are not impossible. I’m treating them of the opinion that this attitude toward like my friends, not like students, and the sport reflects a more widespread I think that’s how I keep them interest- mindset in Macedonian society. “The ed.” he said. His approach has paid off, old school mindset is one of the big- according to Arsova: “Now, this third/ gest problems. I have a lot of parents fourth generation that has worked with of children who say ‘don’t push too trainers and instructors is going to bring hard, don’t hurt yourself, just be happy.’ good results, I think.”

CHALLENGES & OPPORTUNITIES THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

ipalities, NGOs, schools, and the Min- istry of Education,” said Naunov. Both Naunov and Arsova have experienced a lack of financial support from the government in response to their climbing achievements. “At the World Cup, I real- ized that with these conditions, with this amount of money, it was impossible for me to reach the top ten in Europe [...] I completely lost my motivation,” said Naunov. “We need more government money, more government programs to stimulate kids to try harder, because in Macedonia if you are a good climber, you don’t get proper feedback from the government,” he added.

In order for the sport to truly take hold, some see the need for a more decen- tralized and well-rounded approach to how funding is distributed in the climbing community. Paying living wages to Members of the Vertical Bitola club in Prilep climbing developers, instructors, and coaches will translate to sustainable Photo by Goran Kuzmanovski growth for the Macedonian climbing community. “They will focus their ener- LACK OF FINANCIAL AND gy on climbing and climbing develop- INSTITUTIONAL SUPPORT ment because they won’t have existen- tial fears anymore,” said Popov. Naunov Compared to other sports, climbing has agrees. “For me to pay attention to you, not been avidly supported by all gov- training or coaching should be my only ernmental bodies and other institutions job, with financial benefits,” he said. Ad- in North Macedonia. “We have some ditionally, using government funding to good support from the Agency of Youth bolster crag infrastructure and events and Sport, but we need to work more such as climbing festivals would go a and more on collaboration with other long way to attract new climbers. “The institutions as well, such as local munic- spirit of these events is very poor and

CHALLENGES & OPPORTUNITIES CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing in North Macedonia

low-cost, it’s improvised and basically in the country. We symbolically say that from our own pockets,” Popov said. He every door was open to us. Now, be- believes funds dedicated to improving cause of pressures and bad manage- signage, trails, and bathroom facilities ment, we are separate,” said Nikoloski. at crags could help provide a safe and “If the federations were all together, it welcoming experience for beginners. would be easier to influence the state. Programs, projects, everything would The lack of support from local institu- be stronger. There would be concrete tions is exemplified by the hurdles that action plans, strategic plans. Now, each Vertical Bitola has faced in their efforts federation has its own priorities [...] If to build a new climbing gym. “Every- the sport climbing federation wanted thing is business-oriented here. When to open or rebolt an area, the pressure we tried to find a new location for our would be much higher if it came from gym, we found two places, but nobody a larger organization. Now, if there is a wanted to help. They would rather give problem, Vladimir is going in alone, try- it to some businessman who will build a ing to open doors by using friends and house or flats,” said Simona Mirchevs- connections, which is not good. It’s not ka. “We started to look for sponsorship great for long-term action. This is why for our club recently, but everyone re- we are trying to find some connection jected us,” added Ristevska. Vom Meer across projects with the other federa- attributes this to a widespread lack of tions,” he concluded. awareness of the sport’s potential impacts. Indeed, when asked whether the municipality supports the development of climbing in Mavrovo, she re- plied: “For them climbing is just so out of context. They do not understand it.”

FRICTION BETWEEN THE FEDERATIONS

Lastly, many believe that the split of the mountaineering, alpinism, and sport climbing federations was detrimental to mountain sports in North Macedonia. Dimitar Markovski climbing in the Bitola gym “When the federations were together, it was one of the strongest organizations Photo by Keti Talevska

CHALLENGES & OPPORTUNITIES THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

22 Vladimir Gjorgievski climbing in Demir Kapija Photo by Goran Kuzmanovski CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing in North Macedonia

RECOMMENDATIONS

Promote local understanding of ty, it is essential that more community climbing. Most non-climbers in North members are engaged in climbing de- Macedonia know little about climb- velopment throughout the country. By ing, and often confuse it with moun- distributing more funding to local clubs taineering and alpinism. This lack of and developers, North Macedonia will awareness has serious repercussions be investing in the shared knowledge on financial and institutional support of its climbing community, ensuring its for climbing at the local scale and pre- growth for years to come. vents the country from reaching its full potential as a climbing destination. Gather more data on climbing. In or- A coordinated push from the sport der to convince relevant stakeholders climbing federation and the Agency of the importance of climbing, quanti- for Youth and Sport to educate local tative data on the number and impact governments and businesses on the of visiting climbers is needed. Outside benefits of climbing, combined with of Demir Kapija, very few non-climb- an integration of climbing into school ers understand the positive force of curriculums, would have the power to climbing tourism and the benefits it can reshape Macedonians’ appreciation bring. A cooperative data collection ef- of climbing, setting the country up for fort between the national government, future economic, social, and environ- local authorities, and the mountain mental benefits. sports federations will help the community make more informed decisions Decentralize climbing funding. Cur- about how to best support the growth rently, climbing development through- of climbing tourism while preserving out North Macedonia is dominated by climbing areas. the sport climbing federation, which re- ceives most of its funding from the gov- Develop a comprehensive guide- ernment. Most climbing development, book. For North Macedonia to reap the in turn, is conducted by a small handful economic benefits of climbing tourism, of individuals. In order to build a robust international climbers must be able to and long-lasting climbing communi- research and plan their trips. Although

RECOMMENDATIONS THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

a guidebook exists for bouldering in facilitate gym-to-crag education, make Prilep, the country is in need of a com- beginners’ clinics more available, and prehensive guidebook that provides increase the number of beginner-level further details on the quality and style routes throughout the country. of routes, gear requirements, and trip planning information such as a list of Encourage cooperation between the nearby restaurants and accommoda- mountaineering, alpinism, and sport tions. This is an opportunity to involve climbing federations. The current local businesses in the development antagonism between the federations of climbing tourism and increase local creates an environment of unhealthy support. competition. In order for mountain sports to gain funding, popularity, and Publicize climbing achievements. ultimately reach their full potential, ex- In order for climbing to grow in North isting tensions must be remedied and Macedonia, it must be celebrated in the the federations must work together to media alongside other sports. In coor- further their common goals, including dination with climbing’s Olympic debut, environmental protection, access, and the country should develop a strategy public interest in the sports. that increases the visibility of climbers in the press. The Agency for Youth and Use mountain sports as a catalyst for Sport and the sport climbing federation better treatment of the environment. should also commit to highlighting the The long history of mountain sports in achievements of female climbers and North Macedonia has created a shared mountaineers in order to counter exist- identity among Macedonians connect- ing societal narratives about women’s ing them to the surrounding peaks. strength and abilities. With this comes a growing opportunity for new generations to bring about a Make climbing more accessible for shift in attitudes towards environmental beginners. Climbing in North Macedo- protection. North Macedonia’s strug- nia is still in a stage where it is difficult gles with littering and pollution are to learn requisite skills unless you are rooted in insensitivity to the damage affiliated with a local club. If the above of human activity on the environment. recommendations to increase pub- Experiencing the pristine condition of lic awareness and publicize climbing the mountains may inspire more Mace- achievements are followed, it is import- donians to adopt environmentally con- ant that gyms, climbing clubs, and the scious behaviors and encourage oth- sport climbing federation coordinate to ers to do the same.

RECOMMENDATIONS CASE STUDY The Impact of Rock Climbing in North Macedonia

Members of the Macedonian climbing community together for the 2019 climbing festival in Mavrovo

Photo by Veronica Baker CONCLUSIONS

North Macedonia holds great poten- undiscovered. However, the climbing tial to become a well-known climbing community has remained small due destination. The expansive boulder to a lack of public understanding and fields of Prilep, towering limestone interest in the sport, which hinders the walls of Demir Kapija, and newly-un- climbing community’s development, as covered treasures like Mavrovo Cave gyms continue to struggle financially, offer only the beginning of opportuni- crags lie undeveloped, and few new ties in a country where an estimated climbers join the sport. “I believe that 90 percent of climbing areas remain we are slowly building a strong foun-

CONCLUSIONS THE CLIMBING INITIATIVE

dation for our sport, constantly learning international climbing tourists to visit from our mistakes and growing,” said and promote greater buy-in from local Minchevski. “Despite all the obstacles businesses. that we’ve faced so far, it really gives me hope that with our efforts and de- If implemented successfully, these termination that has not faded even recommendations will allow North a bit, we will create an environment Macedonia to maximize the econom- where people who want to start climb- ic, social, and environmental benefts ing will have much easier access to the of climbing for its people. Domestic sport than we’ve had.” tourism from Macedonians visiting ru- ral crags and international tourism from For climbing to grow in North Mace- climbers seeking to experience the donia, the sport climbing federation, pristine, less-trafficked rock of North local climbing clubs, and gyms must Macedonia could be valuable drivers of be supported not only by the nation- economic growth. The social and psy- al government, but also by municipal chological benefits reported by climb- governments and other institutions at ers would reach more Macedonians, the local level. The Agency of Youth fostering community and improving and Sport and the sport climbing fed- physical and mental health. Finally, in- eration should develop a strategy to troducing a new discipline of mountain increase public awareness and un- sports to the broader population could derstanding of the sport. In doing so, catalyze outdoor engagement and in- they must work to publicize climbing spire more young people to protect achievements and distinguish climb- the natural beauty of their homeland. ing, mountaineering, and alpinism as It is essential that all stakeholders with separate yet complementary disci- an interest in the growth of climbing in plines. This will require coordination North Macedonia collaborate on a new between the federations, whose rela- strategy for the country to reach its full tions have been tense since their split. potential as a climbing destination and The country would also benefit from a expand its thriving climbing community. decentralization of climbing funding, so that climbing clubs have autonomy to invest in their climbing communities and local developers can be compen- For more case studies, visit sated for their work. Finally, the cre- climbinginitiative.org ation of a comprehensive guidebook for the country would encourage more

CONCLUSIONS