The Absence of Stokes Drift in Waves
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Transport Due to Transient Progressive Waves of Small As Well As of Large Amplitude
This draft was prepared using the LaTeX style file belonging to the Journal of Fluid Mechanics 1 Transport due to Transient Progressive Waves Juan M. Restrepo1,2 , Jorge M. Ram´ırez 3 † 1Department of Mathematics, Oregon State University, Corvallis OR 97330 USA 2Kavli Institute of Theoretical Physics, University of California at Santa Barbara, Santa Barbara CA 93106 USA. 3Departamento de Matem´aticas, Universidad Nacional de Colombia Sede Medell´ın, Medell´ın Colombia (Received xx; revised xx; accepted xx) We describe and analyze the mean transport due to numerically-generated transient progressive waves, including breaking waves. The waves are packets and are generated with a boundary-forced air-water two-phase Navier Stokes solver. The analysis is done in the Lagrangian frame. The primary aim of this study is to explain how, and in what sense, the transport generated by transient waves is larger than the transport generated by steady waves. Focusing on a Lagrangian framework kinematic description of the parcel paths it is clear that the mean transport is well approximated by an irrotational approximation of the velocity. For large amplitude waves the parcel paths in the neighborhood of the free surface exhibit increased dispersion and lingering transport due to the generation of vorticity. Armed with this understanding it is possible to formulate a simple Lagrangian model which captures the transport qualitatively for a large range of wave amplitudes. The effect of wave breaking on the mean transport is accounted for by parametrizing dispersion via a simple stochastic model of the parcel path. The stochastic model is too simple to capture dispersion, however, it offers a good starting point for a more comprehensive model for mean transport and dispersion. -
Aerodynamics Material - Taylor & Francis
CopyrightAerodynamics material - Taylor & Francis ______________________________________________________________________ 257 Aerodynamics Symbol List Symbol Definition Units a speed of sound ⁄ a speed of sound at sea level ⁄ A area aspect ratio ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ b wing span c chord length c Copyrightmean aerodynamic material chord- Taylor & Francis specific heat at constant pressure of air · root chord tip chord specific heat at constant volume of air · / quarter chord total drag coefficient ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ , induced drag coefficient ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ , parasite drag coefficient ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ , wave drag coefficient ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ local skin friction coefficient ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ lift coefficient ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ , compressible lift coefficient ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ compressible moment ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ , coefficient , pitching moment coefficient ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ , rolling moment coefficient ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ , yawing moment coefficient ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ ______________________________________________________________________ 258 Aerodynamics Aerodynamics Symbol List (cont.) Symbol Definition Units pressure coefficient ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ compressible pressure ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ , coefficient , critical pressure coefficient ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ , supersonic pressure coefficient ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ D total drag induced drag Copyright material - Taylor & Francis parasite drag e span efficiency factor ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ L lift pitching moment · rolling moment · yawing moment · M mach number ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ critical mach number ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ free stream mach number ‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐ P static pressure ⁄ total pressure ⁄ free stream pressure ⁄ q dynamic pressure ⁄ R -
Arxiv:2002.03434V3 [Physics.Flu-Dyn] 25 Jul 2020
APS/123-QED Modified Stokes drift due to surface waves and corrugated sea-floor interactions with and without a mean current Akanksha Gupta Department of Mechanical Engineering, Indian Institute of Technology, Kanpur, U.P. 208016, India.∗ Anirban Guhay School of Science and Engineering, University of Dundee, Dundee DD1 4HN, UK. (Dated: July 28, 2020) arXiv:2002.03434v3 [physics.flu-dyn] 25 Jul 2020 1 Abstract In this paper, we show that Stokes drift may be significantly affected when an incident inter- mediate or shallow water surface wave travels over a corrugated sea-floor. The underlying mech- anism is Bragg resonance { reflected waves generated via nonlinear resonant interactions between an incident wave and a rippled bottom. We theoretically explain the fundamental effect of two counter-propagating Stokes waves on Stokes drift and then perform numerical simulations of Bragg resonance using High-order Spectral method. A monochromatic incident wave on interaction with a patch of bottom ripple yields a complex interference between the incident and reflected waves. When the velocity induced by the reflected waves exceeds that of the incident, particle trajectories reverse, leading to a backward drift. Lagrangian and Lagrangian-mean trajectories reveal that surface particles near the up-wave side of the patch are either trapped or reflected, implying that the rippled patch acts as a non-surface-invasive particle trap or reflector. On increasing the length and amplitude of the rippled patch; reflection, and thus the effectiveness of the patch, increases. The inclusion of realistic constant current shows noticeable differences between Lagrangian-mean trajectories with and without the rippled patch. -
The Stokes Drift in Ocean Surface Drift Prediction
EGU2020-9752 https://doi.org/10.5194/egusphere-egu2020-9752 EGU General Assembly 2020 © Author(s) 2021. This work is distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License. The Stokes drift in ocean surface drift prediction Michel Tamkpanka Tamtare, Dany Dumont, and Cédric Chavanne Université du Québec à Rimouski, Institut des Sciences de la mer de Rimouski, Océanographie Physique, Canada ([email protected]) Ocean surface drift forecasts are essential for numerous applications. It is a central asset in search and rescue and oil spill response operations, but it is also used for predicting the transport of pelagic eggs, larvae and detritus or other organisms and solutes, for evaluating ecological isolation of marine species, for tracking plastic debris, and for environmental planning and management. The accuracy of surface drift forecasts depends to a large extent on the quality of ocean current, wind and waves forecasts, but also on the drift model used. The standard Eulerian leeway drift model used in most operational systems considers near-surface currents provided by the top grid cell of the ocean circulation model and a correction term proportional to the near-surface wind. Such formulation assumes that the 'wind correction term' accounts for many processes including windage, unresolved ocean current vertical shear, and wave-induced drift. However, the latter two processes are not necessarily linearly related to the local wind velocity. We propose three other drift models that attempt to account for the unresolved near-surface current shear by extrapolating the near-surface currents to the surface assuming Ekman dynamics. Among them two models consider explicitly the Stokes drift, one without and the other with a wind correction term. -
Part II-1 Water Wave Mechanics
Chapter 1 EM 1110-2-1100 WATER WAVE MECHANICS (Part II) 1 August 2008 (Change 2) Table of Contents Page II-1-1. Introduction ............................................................II-1-1 II-1-2. Regular Waves .........................................................II-1-3 a. Introduction ...........................................................II-1-3 b. Definition of wave parameters .............................................II-1-4 c. Linear wave theory ......................................................II-1-5 (1) Introduction .......................................................II-1-5 (2) Wave celerity, length, and period.......................................II-1-6 (3) The sinusoidal wave profile...........................................II-1-9 (4) Some useful functions ...............................................II-1-9 (5) Local fluid velocities and accelerations .................................II-1-12 (6) Water particle displacements .........................................II-1-13 (7) Subsurface pressure ................................................II-1-21 (8) Group velocity ....................................................II-1-22 (9) Wave energy and power.............................................II-1-26 (10)Summary of linear wave theory.......................................II-1-29 d. Nonlinear wave theories .................................................II-1-30 (1) Introduction ......................................................II-1-30 (2) Stokes finite-amplitude wave theory ...................................II-1-32 -
Potential Flow Theory
2.016 Hydrodynamics Reading #4 2.016 Hydrodynamics Prof. A.H. Techet Potential Flow Theory “When a flow is both frictionless and irrotational, pleasant things happen.” –F.M. White, Fluid Mechanics 4th ed. We can treat external flows around bodies as invicid (i.e. frictionless) and irrotational (i.e. the fluid particles are not rotating). This is because the viscous effects are limited to a thin layer next to the body called the boundary layer. In graduate classes like 2.25, you’ll learn how to solve for the invicid flow and then correct this within the boundary layer by considering viscosity. For now, let’s just learn how to solve for the invicid flow. We can define a potential function,!(x, z,t) , as a continuous function that satisfies the basic laws of fluid mechanics: conservation of mass and momentum, assuming incompressible, inviscid and irrotational flow. There is a vector identity (prove it for yourself!) that states for any scalar, ", " # "$ = 0 By definition, for irrotational flow, r ! " #V = 0 Therefore ! r V = "# ! where ! = !(x, y, z,t) is the velocity potential function. Such that the components of velocity in Cartesian coordinates, as functions of space and time, are ! "! "! "! u = , v = and w = (4.1) dx dy dz version 1.0 updated 9/22/2005 -1- ©2005 A. Techet 2.016 Hydrodynamics Reading #4 Laplace Equation The velocity must still satisfy the conservation of mass equation. We can substitute in the relationship between potential and velocity and arrive at the Laplace Equation, which we will revisit in our discussion on linear waves. -
Stokes Drift and Net Transport for Two-Dimensional Wave Groups in Deep Water
Stokes drift and net transport for two-dimensional wave groups in deep water T.S. van den Bremer & P.H. Taylor Department of Engineering Science, University of Oxford [email protected], [email protected] Introduction This paper explores Stokes drift and net subsurface transport by non-linear two-dimensional wave groups with realistic underlying frequency spectra in deep wa- ter. It combines analytical expressions from second- order random wave theory with higher order approxi- mate solutions from Creamer et al (1989) to give accu- rate subsurface kinematics using the H-operator of Bate- man, Swan & Taylor (2003). This class of Fourier series based numerical methods is extended by proposing an M-operator, which enables direct evaluation of the net transport underneath a wave group, and a new conformal Figure 1: Illustration of the localized irrotational mass mapping primer with remarkable properties that removes circulation moving with the passing wave group. The the persistent problem of high-frequency contamination four fluxes, the Stokes transport in the near surface re- for such calculations. gion and in the direction of wave propagation (left to Although the literature has examined Stokes drift in right); the return flow in the direction opposite to that regular waves in great detail since its first systematic of wave propagation (right to left); the downflow to the study by Stokes (1847), the motion of fluid particles right of the wave group; and the upflow to the left of the transported by a (focussed) wave group has received con- wave group, are equal. siderably less attention. -
Introduction to Compressible Computational Fluid Dynamics James S
Introduction to Compressible Computational Fluid Dynamics James S. Sochacki Department of Mathematics James Madison University [email protected] Abstract This document is intended as an introduction to computational fluid dynamics at the upper undergraduate level. It is assumed that the student has had courses through three dimensional calculus and some computer programming experience with numer- ical algorithms. A course in differential equations is recommended. This document is intended to be used by undergraduate instructors and students to gain an under- standing of computational fluid dynamics. The document can be used in a classroom or research environment at the undergraduate level. The idea of this work is to have the students use the modules to discover properties of the equations and then relate this to the physics of fluid dynamics. Many issues, such as rarefactions and shocks are left out of the discussion because the intent is to have the students discover these concepts and then study them with the instructor. The document is used in part of the undergraduate MATH 365 - Computation Fluid Dynamics course at James Madi- son University (JMU) and is part of the joint NSF Grant between JMU and North Carolina Central University (NCCU): A Collaborative Computational Sciences Pro- gram. This document introduces the full three-dimensional Navier Stokes equations. As- sumptions to these equations are made to derive equations that are accessible to un- dergraduates with the above prerequisites. These equations are approximated using finite difference methods. The development of the equations and finite difference methods are contained in this document. Software modules and their corresponding documentation in Fortran 90, Maple and Matlab can be downloaded from the web- site: http://www.math.jmu.edu/~jim/compressible.html. -
INCOMPRESSIBLE FLOW AERODYNAMICS 3 0 0 3 Course Category: Programme Core A
COURSE CODE COURSE TITLE L T P C 1151AE107 INCOMPRESSIBLE FLOW AERODYNAMICS 3 0 0 3 Course Category: Programme core a. Preamble : The primary objective of this course is to teach students how to determine aerodynamic lift and drag over an airfoil and wing at incompressible flow regime by analytical methods. b. Prerequisite Courses: Fluid Mechanics c. Related Courses: Airplane Performance Compressible flow Aerodynamics Aero elasticity Flapping wing dynamics Industrial aerodynamics Transonic Aerodynamics d. Course Educational Objectives: To introduce the concepts of mass, momentum and energy conservation relating to aerodynamics. To make the student understand the concept of vorticity, irrotationality, theory of air foils and wing sections. To introduce the basics of viscous flow. e. Course Outcomes: Upon the successful completion of the course, students will be able to: Knowledge Level CO Course Outcomes (Based on revised Nos. Bloom’s Taxonomy) Apply the physical principles to formulate the governing CO1 K3 aerodynamics equations Find the solution for two dimensional incompressible inviscid CO2 K3 flows Apply conformal transformation to find the solution for flow over CO3 airfoils and also find the solutions using classical thin airfoil K3 theory Apply Prandtl’s lifting-line theory to find the aerodynamic CO4 K3 characteristics of finite wing Find the solution for incompressible flow over a flat plate using CO5 K3 viscous flow concepts f. Correlation of COs with POs: COs PO1 PO2 PO3 PO4 PO5 PO6 PO7 PO8 PO9 PO10 PO11 PO12 CO1 H L H L M H H CO2 H L H L M H H CO3 H L H L M H H CO4 H L H L M H H CO5 H L H L M H H H- High; M-Medium; L-Low g. -
Final Program
Final Program 1st International Workshop on Waves, Storm Surges and Coastal Hazards Hilton Hotel Liverpool Sunday September 10 6:00 - 8:00 p.m. Workshop Registration Desk Open at Hilton Hotel Monday September 11 7:30 - 8:30 a.m. Workshop Registration Desk Open 8:30 a.m. Welcome and Introduction Session A: Wave Measurement -1 Chair: Val Swail A1 Quantifying Wave Measurement Differences in Historical and Present Wave Buoy Systems 8:50 a.m. R.E. Jensen, V. Swail, R.H. Bouchard, B. Bradshaw and T.J. Hesser Presenter: Jensen Field Evaluation of the Wave Module for NDBC’s New Self-Contained Ocean Observing A2 Payload (SCOOP 9:10 a.m. Richard Bouchard Presenter: Bouchard A3 Correcting for Changes in the NDBC Wave Records of the United States 9:30 a.m. Elizabeth Livermont Presenter: Livermont 9:50 a.m. Break Session B: Wave Measurement - 2 Chair: Robert Jensen B1 Spectral shape parameters in storm events from different data sources 10:30 a.m. Anne Karin Magnusson Presenter: Magnusson B2 Open Ocean Storm Waves in the Arctic 10:50 a.m. Takuji Waseda Presenter: Waseda B3 A project of concrete stabilized spar buoy for monitoring near-shore environement Sergei I. Badulin, Vladislav V. Vershinin, Andrey G. Zatsepin, Dmitry V. Ivonin, Dmitry G. 11:10 a.m. Levchenko and Alexander G. Ostrovskii Presenter: Badulin B4 Measuring the ‘First Five’ with HF radar Final Program 11:30 a.m. Lucy R Wyatt Presenter: Wyatt The use and limitations of satellite remote sensing for the measurement of wind speed and B5 wave height 11:50 a.m. -
Waves and Structures
WAVES AND STRUCTURES By Dr M C Deo Professor of Civil Engineering Indian Institute of Technology Bombay Powai, Mumbai 400 076 Contact: [email protected]; (+91) 22 2572 2377 (Please refer as follows, if you use any part of this book: Deo M C (2013): Waves and Structures, http://www.civil.iitb.ac.in/~mcdeo/waves.html) (Suggestions to improve/modify contents are welcome) 1 Content Chapter 1: Introduction 4 Chapter 2: Wave Theories 18 Chapter 3: Random Waves 47 Chapter 4: Wave Propagation 80 Chapter 5: Numerical Modeling of Waves 110 Chapter 6: Design Water Depth 115 Chapter 7: Wave Forces on Shore-Based Structures 132 Chapter 8: Wave Force On Small Diameter Members 150 Chapter 9: Maximum Wave Force on the Entire Structure 173 Chapter 10: Wave Forces on Large Diameter Members 187 Chapter 11: Spectral and Statistical Analysis of Wave Forces 209 Chapter 12: Wave Run Up 221 Chapter 13: Pipeline Hydrodynamics 234 Chapter 14: Statics of Floating Bodies 241 Chapter 15: Vibrations 268 Chapter 16: Motions of Freely Floating Bodies 283 Chapter 17: Motion Response of Compliant Structures 315 2 Notations 338 References 342 3 CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION 1.1 Introduction The knowledge of magnitude and behavior of ocean waves at site is an essential prerequisite for almost all activities in the ocean including planning, design, construction and operation related to harbor, coastal and structures. The waves of major concern to a harbor engineer are generated by the action of wind. The wind creates a disturbance in the sea which is restored to its calm equilibrium position by the action of gravity and hence resulting waves are called wind generated gravity waves. -
Arxiv:1903.11909V1 [Physics.Flu-Dyn] 28 Mar 2019
Exact solution for progressive gravity waves on the surface of a deep fluid Nail S. Ussembayev∗ Computer, Electrical, and Mathematical Sciences and Engineering Divison King Abdullah University of Science and Technology, Thuwal 23955-6900, KSA Gerstner or trochoidal wave is the only known exact solution of the Euler equations for periodic surface gravity waves on deep water. In this Letter we utilize Zakharov’s variational formulation of weakly nonlinear surface waves and, without truncating the Hamiltonian in its slope expansion, derive the equations of motion for unidirectional gravity waves propagating in a two-dimensional flow. We obtain an exact solution of the evolution equations in terms of the Lambert W -function. The associated flow field is irrotational. The maximum wave height occurs for a wave steepness of 0.2034 which compares to 0.3183 for the trochoidal wave and 0.1412 for the Stokes wave. Like in the case of Gerstner’s solution, the limiting wave of a new type has a cusp of zero angle at its crest. Background.—The water waves problem even in the tial evaluated on the free surface. The expansion coef- completely idealized setting of a perfect fluid is notori- ficients simplify remarkably for two-dimensional waves ously difficult from a mathematical point of view. This propagating in the same direction and the infinite series is one of the reasons we have very few explicit solutions can be summed in a closed form if the wave steepness to the fully nonlinear free-surface hydrodynamics equa- is small. From the stationary periodic solution of the tions despite extensive research over hundreds of years.