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Gentle New Guinea 2018 Trip Report Sicklebill Safaris Gentle New Guinea 2018 SICKLEBILL SAFARIS GENTLE NEW GUINEA June 27 – July 10 2018 New Britain extension July 10-14 Led by Phil Gregory This was a Gentle New Guinea outing, designed to hopefully not be too strenuous, and to maximize photo opportunities in what is a challenging place for photographers. We were blessed with atypically good weather, actually losing no birding time at all to rain, which is most unusual. Air Niugini excelled themselves in leaving on time and getting luggage out with amazing alacrity, plus the new terminal at Kagamuga Airport in Mt Hagen is a huge improvement on the disgusting old facility there. The rebranded PNG Air (formerly Airlines PNG) were good in getting us out of Kiunga, and the TNT charters all worked very nicely, though due to the cancellation of scheduled services to Tari we had to have an extra charter back to Mt Hagen at horrible cost. Kiunga, Kumul, Rondon Ridge and Ambua were great destinations with some terrific birds as always, and our hotel in Port Moresby is a very pleasant haven. Our arrival afternoon intro on June 27th was a tour around to see the Waigani Houses of Parliament (Torresian Imperial Pigeon, Blue-winged Kookaburra, Yellow-tinted Honeyeater, and Fawn-breasted Bowerbird) and Ela Beach (Frigatebirds). June 28th we had a morning up at Varirata and a rewarding afternoon at the PAU. Varirata was great for kingfishers with Yellow-billed, Papuan Dwarf, Rufous-bellied Kookaburra, Blue-winged Kookaburra and Brown-headed Paradise Kingfisher, and the Raggiana lek was also good. Some fruiting trees by the car park picnic site gave us Orange-bellied, Pink-spotted, Dwarf and Wompoo Fruit Doves, Red-cheeked Parrot, several cuckooshrikes and a lovely Dwarf Koel. The PAU gave us Plumed and Wandering Whistling-Duck, Papuan Frogmouth, Orange-fronted Fruit Dove, Black-backed Butcherbird and Fawn-breasted Bowerbird with a nice bower, plus Grey-headed Mannikin, and is always a nice easy intro. Next saw us over to Kiunga, and an excellent late afternoon trip up to Km 17 for the Greater Bird of Paradise lek, which had 3 fine showy males displaying, plus a lovely bonus of a terrific male King Bird of Paradise en route. A river trip was very nice, and we had some great looks at Twelve-wired Bird of Paradise, Palm Cockatoo, a brief Southern Crowned Pigeon and sundry parrots and pigeons. We hit a sudden downpour not 15 minutes out of Kiunga after a nice overcast day, which was not too sunny, all part of the experience. The next morning watch at the mound at Km 14 gave us a total of 50 species, see my e-bird report for July 1st, including the hybrid between Greater and Raggiana Bird of Paradise (Lupton’s Bird of Paradise), a male Flame Bowerbird, Meyer’s Friarbird, Yellow-billed Kingfisher plus Grey-headed Goshawk. An afternoon trip up to the oxbow gave White-spotted Mannikin. Over then to Mt Hagen and Kumul Lodge, which gave us some fine sightings, with up to 6 (each differently plumaged!) Ribbon-tailed Astrapia coming at various times to the feeder, including a striking adult male; there were also several female-plumaged Brown Sicklebills, some lovely Brehm’s Tiger-Parrots, remarkably few Belford’s 1 Sicklebill Safaris Gentle New Guinea 2018 Melidectes and great looks at Rufous-naped Bellbird, Island Thrush, White-winged Robin and Regent Whistler along with Eastern Crested Berrypecker, The trip to the lek at Kama paid off with a single adult male Lesser Bird of Paradise and several shy female plumaged birds, along with an amazing bower of Yellow-breasted Bowerbird for those who did the steep trek down the slope. Luckily we got to see this species not too far way at Lai-Mambis later this morning, whilst Torrent Flyrobin showed nicely at the Sepik headwaters. From Kumul we drove back via Murmur Pass, seeing male King of Saxony and a terrific male Mountain Fruit Dove there on a brief visit. Next came the much more luxurious Rondon Ridge near Mt Hagen, with lovely big rooms, and the 40 steps to climb up to the dining area keeping us fit! Thankfully they now have a good system of trails in the forest here and we found it a rewarding place, albeit still hard to see things well. One afternoon was very quiet, and the pre-dawn trek next morning up to the ridge top was disappointing as it got very hot and sunny by 0700 and activity basically ceased. Star birds here included King of Saxony BoP, Superb BoP male and female at a fruiting tree, Princess Stephanie’s Astrapia, a fine male Brown Sicklebill, a great hearing experience but sadly no sighting of Black Sicklebill, (it was just too sunny!), MacGregor’s Bowerbird, Black Shrike-thrush (Pitohui), Stella’s and Goldie’s Lorikeet, Elfin and Red-collared Myzomela, Green-fronted White-eye and heard Mottled Berryhunter. Tari was as ever full of surprises; one rather dramatic when the lodge was raided by 10 armed and painted Huli on a beer raid and probably with a payback grudge against the manager. None of us was hurt, and thankfully I was able to quarantine our group out of view in the business centre, whilst David in the car park was rescued by young Henry the trainee bird guide. Unfortunately though the track where they were hiding was the one where the entire group of raskols went out right by them, with Henry saving my scope and the cameras from the miscreants, one of whom waved cheerfully as they went past! Such events happen, but are not directed against tourists, Tari really is a wild-west sort of place but such happenings make for a good diner table conversation piece. Despite this, we were able to make our outings much as desired once the coast was clear. I was also very pleased to see much less logging in evidence, and far less traffic on the highway now the oil and gas start-up is over. The charter flights ex-Hagen worked very well, I was pleased to see George is still the pilot as he supposed to be retiring and he is a tremendously experienced New Guinea pilot, always a comfort. I am hopeful Tari airport will be serviced by the two big airlines again, sadly it’s all very political but will no doubt resolve in time. Bird sightings included photos of King of Saxony, Brown Sicklebill, Short-tailed Paradigalla and Superb BoP, we saw Black Sicklebill twice, and a window in the business centre was very rewarding with nice photo ops for the rare Bicoloured Mouse Warbler, Sclater’s Whistler, Fan-tailed Monarch, Orange-crowned Fairywren and Blue-grey Robin, whilst some got Bronze Ground Dove, Tit Berrypecker and Superb Bird of Paradise female. Mountain Peltops and Great Woodswallow were terrific, and a Rufous Owl showed on two successive nights enabling everyone to get photos. Thanks to Sue and Rowan at Sicklebill Safaris for good logistics, to Leonard at Port Moresby, Samuel, Edmund, Joseph and Ashley at Kiunga, Max 1 and Max 2 at Kumul, Joseph Ando at Rondon, and Joseph Tano and young Henry at Ambua. My 2 Sicklebill Safaris Gentle New Guinea 2018 particular thanks to the group for good company and the chance to do the trip and get some great sightings, various recordings and a few nice photos. I do hope you were able to get some good photos, New Guinea is not an easy place for bird photography but some things do come good. We saw some 15 species of Bird of Paradise and heard 4 more, with many of them photographed too and some nice displays seen. The group had some memorable characters: Steven with this hand-carried enormous lens, David with his signature Rupert Bear trousers was also known as the late David or Captain Flash, and we learned that Peter is a world expert on Penny Red stamps with a serious collection of same, whilst Frayda is a skilled table tennis player, amazing what surprises groups can give you! The Land of the Unexpected treated us well overall, albeit with one exciting interruption at Ambua, with good weather throughout with no time lost to rain, and with no flight misdemeanours beyond no service to Tari. Tenk yu tru. Itinerary • June 27 Port Moresby arrival, visit Waigani Houses of Parliament, Koki stilt Village and Ela Beach. Fine conditions. Overnight Raintree Lodge. • June 28 Varirata NP morning, then PAU trip afternoon. Fine conditions. Overnight Raintree Lodge. • June 29 POM-Kiunga via Tabubil, then Km17 lek pm. Overcast. Overnight Kiunga GH. • June 30 Fly River and Elevala, visiting Watame Lodge. Mainly overcast, heavy shower just as we neared Kiunga late pm. Overnight Kiunga GH • July 1 Boystown Road Km 14 am, then Fly River oxbow and Nomad Junction pm. Nicely overcast. Overnight Kiunga GH. • July 2 Kiunga to Mt Hagen on PNG Air, then Kumul Lodge 2600 m. • July 3 Kumul Lodge /Kama lek/Lai-Mambis then Max’s Orchid garden area pm. Overcast later. Overnight Kumul Lodge • July 4 Kumul to Rondon Ridge via Murmur Pass 0800-0900. Fine conditions. Overnight Rondon Ridge • July 5 Rondon Ridge track to 2300 m. Too sunny. Overnight Rondon Ridge • July 6 Rondon fruiting tree, the Mt Hagen and TNT charter to Ambua Lodge departing 1240. Tari Gap pm. Overcast and heavy mist • July 7 Ambua surrounds and King of Saxony Trail. Misty and overcast, rain later • July 8 Ambua area, Naieda Track and Tari Gap. Misty and rain later • July 9 Ambua then charter at 1440 to Mt Hagen and flight to POM • July 10 Depart for Australia or on to Hoskins for the New Britain extension.
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