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1 Family Highlights of the Algarve

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2 1 Family Highlights of the Algarve I THE first sightlookedsoidyllictooktotourismwithawill. ship collapsedthree years aftermyfirstvisit, thepeoplewhoselives at apparent idyll,ofcourse,concealedagreat poverty. rural dealofrural sheep andskinnygoatsinpastures shadedby cork oakgroves. That fishermen haulednetsby hand,barefootcarts, children herded fat Farmers rode mulesorcarriedtheirproduce tomarket indonkey by howbeing struck peaceful,even seemed. backward, thecountry andtheAlentejo,Iremember into thequiethinterlandofAlgarve around France, Spain andMorocco. Crossing theborder from Spain Vila doBispo Vila doBispoV home tomyfirstyear atuniversity afterasummerspenthitchhiking first visitedPortugalin1972asalong-haired teenager, ontheway Carrapateira CarrapaieiraC de Milfontes de Milfontesd Bordeira BordeiraB Zambujeira ZambujeiraZ Sines SinesS Santo Madre Santo MadreS i a e A12 Vila Nova Vila NovaV o a l It’s notsurprisingthat,whenPortugal’s backward-looking dictator- N268 a i a r do Mar do Mard

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Family Highlights of the Algarve 3 Few places in Europe have beaches that can match the Algarve’s that can match beaches have in Europe places Few all a climate that makes such beaches accessible has And nowhere the like that makes a tourism boom inevitable, and A mixture many a limit to how There’s history. not forget the region’s Let’s mainly tourism has been driven back to basics, the Algarve’s Getting the main shop- covering a pedestrian zone have centres town Most great sweeps of white and gold sand, stretching from the mouth of the the mouth of from gold sand, stretching of white and sweeps great the way to – all with Spain border – which forms the Guadiana River where at Sagres, fortress and Henry Navigator’s the Vincent Cape St and the wonderfully da Gama named Vasco like navigators Portuguese set off into the unknown. Poo Fernando 2007 hardy part of this book in February While researching round. year of the huge, empty shallows splashing in the low-tide toddlers were at Sagres’s surfers the waves while wet-suited beach at Carrapateira, rode off the waters sailors raced across and teenage dinghy de Beliche Praia most 21°C one afternoon. On reached The temperature Tavira. de Ilha in mid-summer. even about dream we something beaches, that’s British around average that temperatures summer family-friendly are Equally – hot, but not too hot, and tempered 30°C soar above 26°C and rarely breezes. cooling Atlantic by Thousands Algarve there. has boomed indeed since the first time I went built an have and enterprising locals families visit everyof British year, visitor attractions to comple- array of purpose-made, family-friendly tennis academies and rid- – from natural advantages ment the Algarve’s boat ing schools to karting and a plethora of water parks, tracks, zoos, rides and other intriguing choices for families. the before round can drag the children you churches Manueline whingeing starts boring old (about one, in my experience) but even – like a spooky chapel full of up surprise treats cathedrals can throw a family of fledgling occupied by skulls and bones, or a bell-tower has a castle or harbour and headland And almost everystorks. hilltop, with a storyfortress the wars to tell of knights and princesses, from red- Wellington’s the battles of to and the Spaniards against the Moors allies against the French. coats and their Portuguese to find a restau- rare user friendly – it’s are families, so resorts British by zillions of child- are of the menu, there version rant without an English for every flavour day parlours (enough for a different friendly ice-cream persuade the family to sample easy-to-like can’t and if you of the week), easy enough to find com- it’s dishes such as grilled sardines Portuguese fort-food fingers, burgers and beans on toast. such as fish standbys That right on the beach. and many hotels are areas, ping and strolling accommodation, the less family friendly it pay for your said, the less you to get to to cross roads to have are likely you is likely to be and the more – such as in the west top of this, many of the resorts the sand. On making for fantastic the beach, on cliffs above perched – are Portimão views but meaning that the beach is less accessible to families with 04_055267 ch01.qxp 9/19/07 10:50 PM Page 3 Page PM 10:50 9/19/07 ch01.qxp 04_055267 04_055267 ch01.qxp9/19/0710:50PMPage4

4 1 Family Highlights of the Algarve Best FamilyEvents HIGHLIGHTS FAMILYALGARVE engaged. So, whatare you waitingfor? visitor attractions and heritage sites to keep the family entertained and visitor attractionsandheritagesitestokeepthefamilyentertained year-round sunshine,superbbeaches,andjustenoughpurpose-built isagreat holidaydestination,offeringalmost teenagers –theAlgarve hours inthemiddleofday. with museumsandheritageattractions,closedown foracoupleof When planningyour dayremember manyshopsandbusinesses,along toddlers, whomayhave tobecarrieduplongflightsofstepswhentired. there are ahandfulofevents more atanadultaudience,but datesareticket sporting aimed Portuguese families,andthebig- the comprehension ofmostnon- as localsaints’beyond days–are religiousimportant events –such events. and motorsports The less tures includingmajortennis,golf fix- class culturalandsporting 1,000 years toanarrayofworld- have beenheldformore than ditional religious festivals that events, rangingfrom deeplytra- hasafullcalendarof Algarve fantastic regions intwocountriesforthepriceofone! Luz –thelastrelatively undevelopedstretch ofcoastlineinSpain.Two will alsodiscoversomeofSpain’s finestbeachesalongtheCostadela now transparent Spanishfrontier, andalongwith pilesofheritageyou find itinSeville,Huelva,Jerez delaFrontera andCádiz,justacross the sense ofhistory. Ifthisisthekindofthingyouwant from aholiday, you’ll drawback, itisthelackofcitysightswithahigh‘wowfactor’and areal recommended. Noformalitiesare required. IftheAlgarvehasonesmall and ifyouhaveatasteforsightseeing,tripacross theborder ishighly It’s veryeasytotravelonfromAndalusia– theAlgarveinto western For anyfamily–whetherwithtotsandtoddlers,pre-teens oractive The Onward toSpain Loulé Carnival Loulé Carnival Portugal inmid-February, andthe children ofallages. that are forfamilieswith perfect Carnival iscelebratedallover is farandaway Algarve Family Highlights 5 On the On Faro’s old quarter, within the old quarter, Faro’s brought over from Tangier (not Tangier from over brought so very can sit and you far away) cushions eating on cross-legged and sipping dishes Moroccan belly mint tea, while watching to Berber dancers and listening a reverberating musicians create 156). wall of sound (see p. Best Towns & Cities Best Towns map, the Algarve appears to have map, cities. of fair-sized a good share got a single big fact, it hasn’t In city in the true sense of the word. that have The suburban sprawls Faro, around mushroomed products are Lagos and Portimão of the tourism boom of the last to compre- – all geared 30 years holidays. However, resort hensive slice of eas- looking for a if you’re ily accessible heritage that even to – can relate children younger peo- young and that will provide ple aged 10 and up with plenty of fodder for the next school history – head for the historic project old or the lovely of Faro core Vila and Tavira of towns riverside António. de Santo Real walls, is of its medieval remnants over- a medley of cobbled streets of the the bell-tower looked by cathedral (which is often occupied and outside a family of storks), by of zone the walls is a traffic-free par- shops, cafés and ice-cream riverside has a pretty Tavira lours. of a esplanade, the remains castle, islands to visit medieval and – best of all – a just offshore and unique attraction, the quirky camera obscura, sited in a former and offering a water tower seemingly magical 360-degree . at Areias de at Areias International Sand Moorish Nights From 7th June to 7th 7th June From The unspoilt seaside village of Art Festival (FIESA) the most colourful and accessible deep reli- in the Algarve. From into a evolved it has gious roots, with flower- event three-day and parades, street floats covered can Anyone dancing and music. in Carnival not join in – OK, it’s in New Gras Rio or Mardi but the smaller scale Orleans, overwhelming a lot less means it’s and most for smaller children will be enthralled and children the spectacularly costumed enjoy 54). dancers (see p. the October, There’s a Moroccan-style open- a Moroccan-style There’s outside in the square air market miniature Cacela Velha’s castle, giving children medieval their holiday the chance to blow pocket money on souvenirs Pêra has to be the Algarve’s top Pêra has to be the Algarve’s ‘sand year, Every family fixture. the world all over from artists’ of beach descend on this stretch of a ‘city’ near Albufeira to create gobsmacking, colossal wonders gigantic of the world, from of the images to Lord Buddha Rings style castles, cathedrals for the and monsters. Prepare – but to be inspired children of too to spend the rest prepare holiday as a hod carrier your while they construct a scale copy Snow or Academy of Hogwarts 83). Castle (see p. White’s goes east of Faro, Velha, Cacela for four all Arabian Nights in a kitschy but in July evenings of the Algarve’s fun recreation 10th–13th century Moorish past, the 04_055267 ch01.qxp 9/19/07 10:50 PM Page 5 Page PM 10:50 9/19/07 ch01.qxp 04_055267 04_055267 ch01.qxp9/19/0710:50PMPage6

6 1 Family Highlights of the Algarve Best Resorts p. 180). anovernightwell worth stay(see but central andeasternAlgarve, trip (by carortrain)from the to Seville –it’s doableasaday east, across theSpanish border, your trip, thethingtodoishead outstanding historiccityinto p. 153). wetlands ofanaturalpark (see Marim, surrounded by thewild pheric stronghold ofCastro minute drive away, istheatmos- Gordo. Inland, onlya10–15 least crowded beachesatMonte some oftheAlgarve’s hugestand bridge –andonitsdoorstepare suspension highly scenicnew drive awayacrossjust ashort a looks across the river toSpain – António hasaspecialfeelasit (see p. 157). Vila Real deSanto keep children entrancedforhours and street thatwill entertainment a lively arrayofsummermarkets panorama ofthecity. It alsohosts trimmings willprobably wantto looking forresorts withallthe Brits agreat choice.Families strands toeastandwest offering merging imperceptibly withother stretch ofsandybeach,often Eachhasits international airport. by Faro’s –allserved motorway stretching inlandasfartheA22 courses andtenniscourseresorts Portimão andLagos,golf Albufeira, such asQuarteira, side offormerfishingvillages developments spreading either andvilla of hotels,apartments Lagos isonebigresort, withmiles from FaroAlgarve west asfar But, ifyou mustbuildan In asense,the in theshadow ofitshigh-rises, touches offishingvillagecolour miles andmiles,there are still ally gets–thebeachgoesonfor much betterwriteupthanitusu- Monte Gordo, a whichdeserves isthemuch-maligned the Algarve resort atthisendof full-service complex. apartment The only holiday inaself-cateringvillaor geared forthoselookinga and gentlewaves, andmainly more thansoftsand,warmsun smaller children lookingforno forfamilieswith key –perfect are smallerandmuchmore low are more sheltered andtheresorts limited. EastofFaro, thebeaches intimidating andfacilitiesare canbe beaches, butthesurf than idealforfamilies–great between Luz andSagres are less Atlantic, thesmallresorts of town. Heading outintothe satellite resort atLuz, are well out steroids –itsbeaches,and on resort thanafishingport Still west, Lagosislessa further for thepushchair-encumbered). a clifftophotelcanbechallenge ine (thoughgettingtothemfrom facilities asitispossibletoimag- well suppliedwith family-friendly postcard iconsandare aboutas beaches are amongtheAlgarve’s havens. are bucket-and-spadebrigade do Lobo. andAlbufeira Quarteira ultimate big-spender’s oasis, Vale its surroundings andtheAlgarve’s enclaves –notably Vilamoura and will likethemore upscale coast. Those withcashtoflash stick tothiscentralstretch of To thewest, Portimão’s Algarve Family Highlights 7 , Lagos It takes a bit of It Slide and Splash is bound to please children, finding, because it’s not in fact finding, because it’s in Lagos but tucked away in the countryside about 20 minutes but the city centre, from with its friendly macaws and cockatoos, hooting gibbon slide. The downside is that in is that downside The slide. – which is, inevitably, high season most families are when British be can – there there likely to be popular long queues for the most This is unfortunately true, rides. other top also, of the Algarve’s water park, Zoo Best Animal Parks & Aquariums and Splash add new rides most and Splash summers so visit their websites the 96) for 97 and p. (see p. latest developments. near Estombar – which has an near Estombar – which and bigger choice of thrills even 20 standing in line for spills. If plunge is minutes for a 30-second nerves your avoid likely to shred local families as when weekends, flock here as holidaymakers well for rides such as the terrifying and Slide Aqualand Hole. Black , Aqualand You might You The longest established of return. Some parents end up parents Some return. times to going back two or three are the same site once children hooked on a certain attraction or a spaghetti junction There’s show. of flumes, pools and rubber-raft as sun-loungers, rides (as well the across bars and restaurants) Algarve into. waiting to be delved days out is these great think the Algarve is already natural blessed with enough the most sandy beaches to satisfy but get to a demanding family, tempta- and the good water park to tion will always be there Fisherman’s Beach, Albufeira Fisherman’s and it has family-friendly facilities and it has urban sprawl of the without the the west. to big resorts Parks Best Water special pool and play area for special pool and play area has plenty for It children. younger too – the gung-ho older children 92-metre literally breathtaking longest is the Algarve’s Kamikaze speed chute, and the 23-metre water highest is Portugal’s Banzai at Alcantarilha; the best pick for is a families with toddlers as there 04_055267 ch01.qxp 9/19/07 10:50 PM Page 7 Page PM 10:50 9/19/07 ch01.qxp 04_055267 04_055267 ch01.qxp9/19/0710:50PMPage8

8 1 Family Highlights of the Algarve here (seep. 154). pared tocamp, you caneven stay explore forhours.If you’re pre- combers canpaddle,swimand seashells where young beach- of whitesandpeppered with free, andbestofallhasabeach places toeat,iscompletelytraffic easy togetto,hasachoiceof castaway islandforfamilies.It’s dren (seep. 97). no doubtthatitdelightschil- this (Iknow Ido),butthere is parents mayhave qualmsabout the circus. Some eco-conscious fish, ithasmore thanatouchof andcoralreefsharks, seaturtles trained sealsandsea-lions, but withitsdolphinshow, way, claimsgreen credentials, outside Guia offtheA22motor- Ilha deTavira of Tavira by anarrow channel, the quintessentiallypretty town Best Islands (see p. 132). troops oflemursandmarmosets family, andisland-dwelling Zoomarine because it’s soclosetoFaro it more barsandrestaurants, but tered lagoonbeachesandeven ridefrom Olhão, hasshel- ferry Ilha daArmona, Zoomarine Separated from is the perfect is theperfect a 15-minute , just boat (especiallyifdadis,likethe dren thewaytoseeitisfrom a a hugearea andwithsmallerchil- above) onfoot or by bike,butit’s explore theRiaFormosa (see energetic olderchildren, you can aRaFormosa da Ria Faro. ridefrom a 30-minuteferry Best BoatTrips Best NaturalAttractions even more special(seep. 158). Portuguese waterdogsmakeit ral world,andtheweb-footed one withaninterest inthenatu- make thisaspecialplaceforany- flamingos andwadingspoonbills fishing boats. The glidingstorks, the white,v-shapedwakesof islands andnarrow channels,and tidal labyrinth ofsandbanks, oftheNaturalgood view Park’s window seat,you shouldhave a to landatFaro –from a airport air, asyour holidayjetbanksin first view ofthe first view Culatra from Olhão, or quiet, try neighbouring quiet, try summer weekends (seep. 67). does getcrowded, especiallyon For abitmore peaceand , a45-minuteboatride Ilha daBarreta Parque Natural will befrom the With more Ilha da Your , Algarve Family Highlights 9 Local tourist Luckily the AlgarveLuckily is set up Best Markets be interpreted as racism, so that be interpreted that were markets promoting is cynical at once picturesque aside, correctness best. Political and else- in Faro markets’ ‘gypsy little claim to have now where and their colourful authenticity, stock in trade tends to be the chil- cheapest of cheap tat. Most will find them disappoint- dren a little scary. ing and even boards and many tour operators boards of the and hotels make much markets’, so-called ‘gypsy region’s to be taken but their claims need Some with a pinch of salt. its attitudes to Portuguese deeply are community ‘gypsy’ what can sometimes tainted by for less structured activities from for less structured the beach, the running down of beach- pleasures simple family sands combing on the mile-long or bury- Tavira and Faro between keys! car ing dad’s Mértola Market Ilha on The Quinta Key in the and and surfing the west coast the west Sagres than as fun for all , near Portimão (see , near Portimão or on the estuary of the offer tennis academies dinghy sailing Vale do Lobo Vale Apocalypse Now. Now. Apocalypse schooner sunset cruise Other great boat trips include great Other On land, upscale sportsOn resorts Algarve opens a cornucopia of outdoor activities for older chil- ranging from dren, the family (see p. 126). the family (see p. more sheltered waters around waters around sheltered more Rio Arade Sagres you can take a deep-sea you Sagres better probably fishing trip that’s bonding as a father-and-son experience Best Outdoor Activities the beaches of Carrapateira on author, a fan of Francis Ford Francis a fan of author, going- quintessential Coppola’s up-a-muddy-river-in-a-boat movie, get off the boat’). quote: ‘Never 159.) p. (See the Vilamoura Marina, from which from has mass appeal; while welcome young teenagers, to young welcome tutored (see p. 126 and p. 129), where 126 and p. (see p. surf several that schools are there de Tavira do Lago p. 151 and p. 100). Across the 100). Across 151 and p. p. east of Cádiz, into Spain, border kite- surf, best some of Europe’s and windsurfing beaches boarding can be found. such as and golf coaching for youngsters – and golf coaching for youngsters though at a price that is well parents of most the reach beyond companies 67). Several (see p. trips also offer four-wheel-drive into the wilder hinterland of the Algarve, which can be a good but not laugh for older children under 10. for anyone 04_055267 ch01.qxp 9/19/07 10:50 PM Page 9 Page PM 10:50 9/19/07 ch01.qxp 04_055267 04_055267 ch01.qxp9/19/0710:50PMPage10

10 1 Family Highlights of the Algarve for avisitinallweathers. the mostuserfriendlyandgood the Hotel Vila Galé) isoneof end ofRua João Anas,opposite at theeastendoftown (atthe building is housedinavast new Whittingstall stylereality check. entire familyaHugh Fearnley- hang isguaranteedtogive the calves, chickensandpiglets where recently slaughtered vegetables andbutcher’s stalls through heapsoffresh and fruit sorting local housewives and Lagos–where thesightof especially Faro, Tavira, Portimão of theregion’s majortowns – main municipalmarket inany local supermarket, seekoutthe eye-opening change from your orOlhão,Quarteira andforan morning fishmarkets at marine life,takethemtothe kets. For aneducationinedible region’s fishandproduce mar- much more interesting, are the free) is gallery.and art fortress now housesamuseum top with a view across therivertop withaview battlements commandingahill- looking theseaat or two,likethelittlefortress over- predecessors).Carthaginian One Moorish, Roman andeven Portuguese kings(andtheir castles builtby crusading arepoints around theAlgarve Best Castles are stillinuseby thePortuguese at armed forces. On thewaterfront Lagos Tavira’s indoormarket, which A lotmore authentic,and Much more imposing(and Castro Marim , the fairy-tale miniature , thefairy-tale Dotted atstrategic Cacela Velha , withits , hundreds offeethigh. ringed by unscaleable cliffs defensive sites, a peninsula one oftheworld’s great natural defendstheneckof of ramparts has to be Henry theNavigator’shas tobeHenry The daddyofthemall,however, Castro Marim, entranceisfree. across theoldtown, butlike a square tower withgreat views tle isapretty walledgarden and THE BEST Fortaleza tained resorts intheirown right. villa complexes thatare self-con- there are lavishfive-star hotelsand native choiceofplacestostay. to findamuchwiderandimagi- the other. But lookbeyond these complexes apartment at cheerful budget scale–andforcheap golf resorts atoneendofthe villasand reputation forluxury hasawell-deserved The Algarve ACCOMMODATION All thatremains of to Portugal’s oldenemy, Spain. Windmill For thosewithdeeppockets, at Sagres, where aline Tavira’s cas- The Best Accommodation 11 scores Vale do Vale is a former is the swankiest address in address is the swankiest Le Méridien Penina groomed grounds and set on a and set on a grounds groomed of beach, 2-km stretch the Algarve, villas with gorgeous and apartments, facilities includ- and nannies on ing baby-sitters village a large children’s request, with animators, child-minders pool and mini-golf and its own academy course, and a tennis Wimbledon budding your where world- by stars can be coached also has its class tennis aces. It and designer supermarket own boutiques, 15 very restau- good rants, tennis courts, golf courses, and other activities ranging from yoga, to volleyball, lawn bowls and wooden-top spin- aerobics 56). ning (see p. Lobo equally highly – and a smidge – with its affordably more children, for Village Penguin offering everything an from to a chil- playground adventure pool and slide, crèche, dren’s paints and craft materials, bikes, and a bouncy castle, movies and rooms along with five-star suites, cots (in both Penguin rooms), and in parents’ Village 112). (see p. and babysitting Best Inland Accommodation accom- Almost all the Algarve’s modation is on the beaches, but to seek out some- prefer if you the resorts, thing away from Quinta dos Amigos farm (it has pools for grown-ups of acres on three and children) and farmland, with gardens accommodation in two-person studios and one-, two- and apartments (the three-bedroom . pousadas At the other end of the price the other end of the At Best Self-Contained Resorts of 400 hectares Covering These are perfect for a stay-put These are with everything you holiday, right on your could want facilities and enough doorstep, the whole and activities to keep a or even family busy for a week fortnight leaving the without ever but Less gleamingly new, resort. genuine perhaps with more the are character, Portuguese (surprisingly affordable) Most of these are historic build- of these are Most monasteries and ings – convents, been palaces – that have even converted into comfortable and individual hotels, with pools, that are and gardens courtyards to play in, safe places for children and restaurants, some excellent and parking, off-street secure located slap in the his- most are of some of the region’s toric centre That said, towns. most attractive better for a shorter perhaps they’re or as part of a multi-stop stay, than for a long touring holiday, holiday. campsites scale, well-managed strategically located along the are be coast, and for those who can’t lugging a tent all the bothered tent they offer way to Portugal simple beach and even rentals and chalets with en-suite shower the beach, the from Away WC. Algarve and the Alentejo also number of guest- a growing have house-style places to stay in former farms or country estates – chick- some of which still have ens, pigs, sheep and horses, chil- will be happy to know. dren 04_055267 ch01.qxp 9/19/07 10:50 PM Page 11 Page PM 10:50 9/19/07 ch01.qxp 04_055267 04_055267 ch01.qxp9/19/0710:50PMPage12

12 1 Family Highlights of the Algarve Resort block, the high-rise hotelorapartment where there’s notasignof the west coastatCarrapateira, of within sightoftherolling surf Beach Best StayNearanUnspoilt (see p. 167). wine. It alsohasoff-street parking glassofsparkling complimentary the dayby helpingthemselves toa discreet hairofthedogcanstart children, andparents inneedofa handy forpickyandimpatient Breakfast isbuffet-style,which its own terraceandgarden. best ofthefive suites,whichhas budget willstretch toit,goforthe crowded even whenfull.If your 40 rooms andsuites,it’s nottoo sun-loungers. With than fewer sized poolwithumbrellas and toddlers’ poolaswell asafull- grassy lawnsinwhichyou’ll finda yard, andbehindthehotelare dating. There’s alargeinnercourt- and grandwithoutbeingintimi- Best GrandHotels tion (seep. 71). ing andhotel-styleaccommoda- compromise between self-cater- also bearranged.It’s anexcellent included intheprice,butcan Breakfast anddinnerare not ting isavailable onrequest. guided trailriding)andbabysit- riding lessons,beachridesand has itsown ridingstables(for farmbuildings.Itin converted largest sleepuptoseven people) Graca castle, the minute’s walkfrom Tavira’s ruined gardens andpalmtrees, justa is outstandinglydignified is run by thefriendly is run On averdant hilltop Hotel Conventoda Monte Velho Nature Set among Peace atlast!See p. 141. and from sand,surf apart littletoCarrapateira there isvery a self-sufficient,quietholidayas definitely forpeoplelooking (with atoddlers’ pool);thisis opening ontoapretty garden storey, ranch-housestyleabodes Accommodation isinsingle- so understandfamilyneeds. young children themselves and Balsemão family, whohave suitable forfamilieswithyounger pousadasare surprisingly ury hinterlands oftheAlentejo,lux- convent, the children. Housed inaformer Best Pousadas side, the exploring theAlentejocountry- town thatisagreat basefor street carparking. See p. 221. swings andslide.It alsohasoff- play area withatree house, adults andchildren, plusasmall swallows andswimmingpoolsfor trees, goldfishponds,nesting enclosed gardens fullofpalm of sleepyBeja hasbig,safely Francisco Pousada CastelodeAlvito In pretty small Alvito,avery Pousada Castelode in thehistoriccentre Pousada deSão In therolling scenery. The Best Eating Options 13 Families looking for familiarity looking Families in positively more Even restaurants, bars and cafés that bars and cafés restaurants, been built quite have exist now in with holidaymakers recently aspect of this positive The mind. veryis that virtually all are well of accustomed to the needs families, but the downside British addi- In is a certain uniformity. an Algarvetion, the lifespan of short is often – last restaurant fish restaurant favourite year’s and reopen may close down under new management next bar. burger Tex-Mex as a year a tourism by will be reassured built on British infrastructure inde- but more requirements, pendent families should look to offering both convenience areas are There and a range of cuisine. very with special few restaurants such as options for children, highchairs, outside major resort hotels or ex-pat establishments, very are the Portuguese however, flexible of children, welcoming and used to having them gam- won’t Parents bolling around. be fussed about child-specific is so amenities when the welcome friendly. can be children – if your Portugal wheedled into sampling unfamil- iar dishes – the typical Portuguese an array of small menu features a range from With snack dishes. to shrimps, sausages and olives and other seafood, as sardines any is rarely salads, there as well a tapas-style objection to ordering selection of small dishes for to sample, rather than children adult main dishes. full-sized 168). Camping is in a medieval castle com- is in a medieval Tavira, under pine trees on Ilha under pine trees Tavira, is the perfect castaway Tavira, de get there can only You campsite. hop from boat (a five-minute by and Águas) the jetty at Quatro toddle to just one minute’s it’s huge sandy beach the island’s a first-aid sta- (with lifeguards, cafés and tion and half a dozen in if you’re so even restaurants, out of tins). live needn’t tents you Crusoe Algarve Robinson It’s style with all the nice extras (and didn’t Defoe company) Daniel tent or own your Bring provide. one for up to six people com- rent sheets and plete with mattresses, may children sleeping bags. Older pup- sleeping in their own enjoy tent next door to mum and dad. and The site has security guards, can you where room a store there’s (see p. lock up valuables THE BEST EATING OPTIONS The Algarve is purpose-built for family tourism – 40 years existed as a holiday ago, it hardly destination, and most of the Best Campsite Alvito plete with turrets and battlements turrets plete with with views and for miles around, with a lawned gardens safe, pretty under super- pool suitable for tots and a as parents, vision as well and magical rare mob of resident occasionally white peacocks that the the wall to roam hop over princesses Wannabe village streets. Room, should book the Queen’s bed. See with its four-poster p. 223. 04_055267 ch01.qxp 9/19/07 10:50 PM Page 13 Page PM 10:50 9/19/07 ch01.qxp 04_055267 04_055267 ch01.qxp9/19/0710:50PMPage14

14 1 Family Highlights of the Algarve apartment pyramids ofMonteapartment shadow ofthegiant in thevery café. self-service There are more and thecheap-as-chipsDinoself money Restaurante Ilha Formosa, beach, includingthevalue-for- restaurants andcafésonahuge Faro, way alongthebeach.Just outside boardwalk thatstretches allthe O Âncorastandonawooden restaurants suchasCastelosand overlooked by steepcliffs,where Ilha deTavira weekends). In theeast,traffic-free busyonsummer rants (oftenvery biggest choiceofbeachrestau- spectacular built eatingplacesonPortimão’s larly goodchoiceofpurpose- holiday centres. There’s aparticu- the beachboardwalks atthemain hasplenty,Algarve clustered along after lunch.Fortunately, the can headstraightbacktothesand and down todosomethingelse coffee whilechildren hoppingup allowing parents tolingerover the bestofallworldsforfamilies, Restaurants rightonthebeachare Restaurants onBeaches Sardines Praia deFaro Praia daRocha has aclusterof has the , comes tofishandseafood wins hands-down when it Fish Restaurants luxury and even justforchildren. The that caterespeciallyforfamilies have arangeofeatingplaces of theAlgarve’s resort hotels crayons andhighchairs,most For thefullworks suchas Restaurants inResortHotels Pézinhos n’Areia ispopularwith Gordo, andatPraia Verde, where week (seep. 151). weekends, ifnotthrough the on anyofthebeacheswinter lunch least onerestaurant serving though you willusuallyfindat open allthrough thewinter, not manyoftheseplacesstay parents eat.It’s notingthat worth the beachwithinsightwhile and where children canplayon locals foritswideseafoodmenu (see p. 112). menus atitsotherrestaurants children, aswell aschildren’s ofitsPenguinas part Village for dren’s restaurant, near Alvor, hasaspecialchil- Le MéridienPenina Penguin Mac Portimão , , The Best Eating Options 15 , Like – a local The Restaurant Ribatejano institution that serves massive and fish roasts steaks, Sunday as Portuguese and chips as well and has a children’s standards, menu and some vegetarian specials. Luxury Restaurants Fernando’s Hideaway Fernando’s Restaurants Vegetarian in Faro (see p. 74) promotes itself 74) promotes (see p. in Faro eating place vegetarian as a purely will be sur- but strict vegetarians prised to see bacalhau (dried salt cod) dishes on the menu along rissoles, tofu with vegetable burgers. More omelette and soya within the upscale restaurants hotels and pousadas upmarket generally make a bigger effort, with at least one gourmet veggie offering on their costly menus, are vegetarians level but at street better off choosing self-catering on accommodation and relying the plentiful supply of lovely fruit local and vegetables, fresh and other non- cheeses, olives and in local markets meat treats shops. the rest of Portugal, the Algarve of Portugal, the rest for vegetarians. could do more heavily cooking leans Portuguese meat and fish, sometimes towards in unusual combinations such as with clams, and in most pork will be fobbed off places veggies with omelettes and uninspired salads. Algarve its fair than has more of very for share posh restaurants which gives you some idea of some you which gives A of the area. the ambience in Quarteira is compromise great (see p. 115) you 115) (see p. Around half of Around Forte y Fejo British-style Pubs & Restaurants restaurants, with a string of with a string restaurants, modern establish- half-a-dozen ments serving sar- fresh-caught outdoor tables dines at sunny on the quayside north of Largo where Maurício, A. Francisco boats can watch the fishing you while and yachts on the river meal. More wait for your you can authentic fish restaurants the be found hidden beneath bridge, just of the road arches the former fish inland from where at Largo da Barca, market at can select your sea bass, bream can select your trays of from or huge grouper crushed lob- ice, or choose your living beneath those ster from the aquarium-style dining-room floor. those who visit the Algarve each and the UK, come from year also a large expatriate there’s (and population. British-style pubs and often British-run) to appeared have restaurants service so market, this captive families who get homesick for familiar home cooking (from chips beef and fish and roast to chicken masala, pizza through spoilt for and chilli burgers) are hot-spots for The biggest choice. this kind of culinary experience Quarteira and Albufeira’s are famous (some would say notori- a continuous avenue ous) strip, – of pubs, bars and restaurants including, at last visit, the the Rover’s Kilt and Celt pub, and Duck, and the Dog Return 04_055267 ch01.qxp 9/19/07 10:50 PM Page 15 Page PM 10:50 9/19/07 ch01.qxp 04_055267 04_055267 ch01.qxp9/19/0710:50PMPage16

16 1 Family Highlights of the Algarve and plates,somethingtositon, bin forcolddrinks,plasticcups essential kit–aninsulatedchilly- such asthehugestretches of Algarve’s more extensive beaches, make themostofsome need totakeapicnicalong combinations. goose liver andcaviarforsuperb truffles, markets andimports crayfish andturbot–from local ingredients –suchaslobster, stars. Koschina sources thefinest Portugal toholdtwoMichelin the rest –he’s theonlychefin stands headandshouldersabove chef Dieter Koschina’s cooking de Tavira Michelin star. well-heeled customers,hasone resorts, ensuringasteadyflow of do LoboandQuinta doLago rant islocatedbetween the Vale Carrapateira Places forPicnics with Michelin stars.At the special occasions,includingsome of time. where thismayonlybeamatter Willie Weger haswonstarselse- Michelin starbutas owner-chef Vilamoura, hasnotyet earneda Vila Joya Restaurant Willies Henrique Leis and thevast sandsof in Albufeira,Austrian . You canbuythe , whoserestau- You really , at Hotel Ilha Hotel Vila Joya Arade de Bravura from Lagos,orthe about 15minutes’ drive inland ofjade-greenter reservoir water shores ofthefjord-like inland, suchasthoseonthe There are coolerpicnicspots and asunumbrella isamust. can beblisteringlyhotinsummer kets andsupermarkets. Beaches snacks isdeadeasyinlocalmar- chain) andstockinguponpicnic the Intermarché supermarket picnic equipmentinbranchesof market (there’s agoodchoiceof things up–atanylocalsuper- and asharpknifeforcutting east ofSilves. , afive-minute drive north- , an artificial freshwa-, anartificial Barragem do Barragem