2004 FORECASTS/11-16 LUXURY SECTOR DOWNGRADE/2 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • December 1, 2003 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear The Match Game NEW YORK — When it comes to coordinating outfits, there’s nobody quite like Barbie. And this season, designers are following the lead of the iconic, 11 1/2-inch fashion doll, blurring the lines that usually divide accessories and clothes. Here, a silk doupioni bag with a matching skirt and shoes and a rayon, cotton and polyester T-shirt, all by Nanette Lepore. For more on the trend, see pages 6 and 7. Post-Thanksgiving Tally: Holiday Shopping Liftoff Fuels 4th-Qtr. Optimism By David Moin NEW YORK — There’s a different ring to

STYLED BY ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT; MACY’S PHOTO BY JOHN CALABRESE MACY’S PHOTO BY ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT; STYLED BY Christmas this year and retailers like the sound of it. No one The post- characterized Thanksgiving rush the post- at Macy’s Herald Square Friday. Thanksgiving weekend as a bonanza and retailers remain cautious. But after Friday’s and Saturday’s business, merchants are not wavering from previous forecasts for a healthy holiday season, marked by increased full-price selling, low to mid- See Shoppers, Page8 PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODEL: KATARINA M./ELITE; MAKEUP BY ROANNA AND HAIR BY KELLY GOLA, BOTH FOR WARREN TRICOMI MANAGEMENT; GOLA, TRICOMI MANAGEMENT; BOTH FOR WARREN KELLY ROANNA AND HAIR BY M./ELITE; MAKEUP BY ERICKSEN; MODEL: KATARINA KYLE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 1, 2003 WWDMONDAY Morgan Stanley ‘Cautious’ About Luxe Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear By Miles Socha as inflated valuations, Kent jus- Kent’s top stock picks for the GENERAL tified the downgrade because sector, rated “overweight” and FASHION: “Matchy-matchy” used to be a derisive term. But this season, the PARIS — Adding a skeptical the luxury sector tends to un- expected to exceed average re- 6 bag should match the clothes, and there are plenty of coordinating looks. voice to rumblings of a near- to derperform ahead of interest turns in the industry over 12 to RETAIL WRAP-UP: Retailers said the holiday season is off to a good start midterm luxury rebound, Mor- rate hikes, which are expected 18 months, are Burberry and and are sticking to predictions for low- to mid-single digit gains. gan Stanley has lowered its view in early 2004, and because of the Richemont. 1 on the sector to “cautious” from continuing negative impact of a HSBC in Paris, which main- Adding a skeptical voice to rumblings of a near- to midterm luxury rebound, “in-line,” warning that stock val- weak dollar against the euro. tains a “neutral” stance on the 2 Morgan Stanley has lowered its view on the sector to “cautious.” ues are looking “excessive” with On the latter point, she ex- luxury industry, also has a cau- FINE JEWELRY: The sparkle should return, as executives feel the economy limited upside potential. Addi- plained that American con- tious short-term view, despite the is on the mend and consumers seem ready to buy luxury again. tionally, the dollar-euro ex- 11 change rate that is forecast for The luxury sector tends to underperform ACCESSORIES: Citing an improved economic climate and salable trends, a next year could hurt sales 12 number of firms project double-digit sales growth in 2004. growth for European luxury INNERWEAR: Makers face what most see as the biggest challenge of the goods by as much as 6 percent. ahead of interest rate hikes, which are “Most companies will see no 16 past decade: the U.S. plan to cap Chinese imports of certain categories. better than high single-digit sales expected in early 2004, and because of EYE: The Sheridans reveal their New York connection…Making a multifunction growth for the next three years 4 cultural space of a British hospital…Meet young master Max Pirkis. with limited room for EBIT mar- the continuing negative impact of a weak gin potential,” Claire Kent, the Obituaries...... 23 investment firm’s chief luxury dollar against the euro. Classified Advertisements ...... 22-23 analyst, wrote in a research note To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is titled “There’s no value here.” sumers are unlikely to tolerate fact that sector drivers continue [email protected], using the individual's name. “We believe the rapid growth in further price increases for Euro- to improve. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2003 the luxury industry in the late pean luxury goods before turning In a research note, analyst FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Nineties was driven by wealth to domestic brands like Coach, Antoine Belge notes that luxury VOLUME 186, NO. 111. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays creation, which is unlikely to Polo Ralph Lauren or Tiffany. firms are unlikely to be bullish with one additional issue every month except July and two additional issues in April, September and December, and three in August) by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New occur again in the near future. In While projections for dollar- on the coming holiday season, York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. addition, the industry is much euro exchange could dent growth and stocks are unlikely to con- Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; more competitive and saturated, for European luxury goods in the tinue to outperform as they have John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice-President_General Manager, Advance Magazine given the aggressive floor-space U.S. of up to 6 percent, the main since July. Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post expansion among the major positive for the luxury sector is a “We have thus become more Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada brands and new entrants.” strengthening yen against the cautious as luxury stocks will not post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 1632, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A7C9. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. “Cautious” is Morgan Stanley’s dollar, which should fuel Japa- find it easy to outperform further FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR lowest industry rating. “In-line” nese tourism and luxury spend- from these levels,” Belge wrote. DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is means a sector is likely to per- ing, Kent wrote. As for China as He also cited a surging euro as a required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production form at par with broad market an emerging growth market, she negative factor, along with a poor correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, benchmarks over 12 to 18 months. pegged its benefits as still being outlook for watches and sluggish please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully Besides what she described five to 10 years down the road. sales trends in Europe. screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Tom Burns TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Fed: Economy Improving ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. Back as SVP MONDAY: Chicago Fabric & Trim Show (through By Joanna Ramey ported “solid” sales, as demand Tuesday). for software and professional Manhattan Vintage Clothing Show, New York WASHINGTON — A Federal Re- services “stabilized after months At Doneger (through Tuesday). serve report issued Wednesday of contraction,” the Fed said. added another sign that the Discounting was noted in Atlanta By David Moin TUESDAY: Chico’s FAS and Movado report third-quar- economy is back in the pink and and San Francisco, as well. ter earnings. emphasized that “improvements In addition, “most districts said NEW YORK — In two top man- appeared to be reasonably that inventories were well posi- agement changes at The Done- WEDNESDAY: Neiman Marcus Group reports first- broadly based.” tioned, with many retailers keep- ger Group, Tom Burns has re- quarter earnings. The Beige Book, the Fed’s pe- ing stocks lean,” the Fed said. turned as senior vice president riodic snapshot of national eco- The Fed report came as the and Kathy Bradley-Riley has THURSDAY: Major retailers report on November nomic activity based on anecdot- federal government revised the been promoted to senior vice same-store sales results. al reports from its 12 regional third-quarter Gross Domestic president of merchandising. banks, was particularly upbeat in Product upward to 8.2 percent Once again, Burns reports to FRIDAY: The Labor Department releases the its latest survey, which covered from a robust 7.2 percent, as other Abbey Doneger, president of the November employment report. October and early November. reports pointed to strong corpo- fashion merchandising and re- StoreXpo retail design and visual merchandising Retailers in large swaths of rate profits, business investment tail consulting company. Burns show, New York (through Sunday). COMING THIS WEEK the country reported steady con- and consumer confidence. has responsibility for building sumer spending during the peri- Economists widely expect the client relationships and for fur- od. However, there were weak pace of economic activity to slow thering the company’s strategic patches — New York, Chicago, during the fourth quarter and and business initiatives. Burns Atlanta and Philadelphia — into next year, and retailers told first joined Doneger in 1990 and In Brief where retailers reported sales, the Fed they’re upbeat about left in 1999 as senior executive “particularly apparel,” were ending the year on a strong note. vice president. dampened by unseasonably “Discussions of retailers’ ex- “Essentially, he’s in the same ● NEW SHOES FOR GUCCI: As the fashion world continues to warm weather, the Fed said. pectations for the holidays were role as before,” Doneger said ponder the future of Gucci sans president and chief executive Specifically in New York, “re- generally positive,” the Fed said. Wednesday, when he announced Domenico De Sole and creative director Tom Ford, the Italian tailers report that selling prices Retailers in New York and the Burns appointment. “He’ll be luxury goods giant is bolstering its manufacturing base with an are steady to down 3 percent Minneapolis said they expect to right in front with our clients. Tom acquisition. A Gucci spokesman confirmed Wednesday that the from a year ago. In looking ahead hire seasonal workers at the and I will work hand in hand.” company has bought 70 percent of shoe company Pigini for an to the upcoming holiday season, same level as last year, and stores Over the past two decades, undisclosed sum. Pigini, based in the central Italian region of Le retailers are generally planning in Kansas City said they plan “to Doneger has pursued a strategy Marche, has worked as a supplier for Gucci for about 20 years. for sales to be flat to up modestly raise seasonal hiring.” Overall, of acquiring other buying offices. The company is known for its high-quality products and a high over comparable 2002 levels.” the Fed said “labor market condi- It’s likely to continue. About three tech plant built a year ago. Gucci has been working to beef up its Bright spots for retail sales in tions generally stabilized after an months ago, Doneger purchased shoe business over the last few years. In the first half of 2003, early fall were found in Boston, extended period of weakness.” Margit Publications, which repre- Gucci shoes generated $105.97 million in sales and were the Atlanta, St. Louis, Minneapolis Residential real estate mar- sents color, fashion and trend third biggest product category for the Gucci brand after leather and Kansas City, which “indicat- kets, including new construc- services, as well as international goods and ready-to-wear. ed that sales exceeded year-ago tion, continued to be an econom- fashion publications. In July 2001, levels.” The San Francisco Fed, ic standout, while commercial Doneger bought the Carol ● SHORT BREAK: The World Trade Organization has given which covers the West Coast, re- real estate vacancy rates “re- Hoffman better specialty office. the U.S. a 10-day reprieve before allowing the European mained at high levels across Since leaving Doneger, Burns Union to start levying more than $2 billion in punitive duties most markets.” had been president of Ballinger on U.S. imports of apparel, citrus steel and other products. A weak link, manufacturing, Gold, a better knitwear manufac- The new Dec. 15 deadline gives President Bush more time to showed scattered improvements turer, and was a vice president decide whether to lift U.S. duties he imposed two years ago to across the country, but “factory at Kirk Palmer & Associates ex- shelter American steel mills from low-cost foreign competi- employment growth remained ecutive search firm. tion. The WTO has since ruled in the EU’s favor in declaring weak” in most districts. High His early experience was in the U.S. steel tariffs as contrary to the global trade body’s tech product makers offered retail, working as a merchandise fairness rules. “positive reports.” Continued on page 23 ACCESSORIE The Show Piers 12th Avenue at 55th Street, NYC Photo & Business ID Strictly Enforced for Admission SUNDAY–TUESDAY, JANUARY 11–13, 2004 9AM–6PM DAILY, 9AM–5PM LAST DAY An ENK International Event Phone: 212.759.8055 Fax: 212.758.3403 Email: [email protected] CIRCUIT INTERMEZZO SPRINGCOLLECTIONS 2004SUMMER 4 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 1, 2003

Naomi Sheridan, Jim Sheridan and Kirsten Sheridan. Master Max hough Russell Crowe and Paul Bettany are garnering most of the Tattention for their performances as a ship captain and his doctor, respectively, in “Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World,” Max Pirkis, 14, also makes a startlingly strong debut in the film as Blakeney, a midshipman whose arm must be amputated after he gets hurt in a particularly violent battle. (A.O. Scott in the New York Times called his performance “especially fine.”) All actors have to start somewhere, and Pirkis found his acting legs in a school production. His stage credits, however, don’t go much further than playing “one of the gang” in “Lord of the Flies.” “I was also in a 1930s horror spoof thing called ‘Curse of the Werewolf,’ which is a good one,” Pirkis says by phone from his North London home. “I played a mad Irishman called Ramsey. It was a good entertaining part — he thought he was a werewolf.” Like most child actors, Pirkis wasn’t discovered playing King Lear to a sophomore girl’s Cordelia. Instead, film American Dreams scouts came to his school looking for American Dreams youngsters, and after a series of auditions he PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER DAVID PHOTO BY got the part. “It all came very much out of NEW YORK — The past, one might say, is in the The kitsch pad in the movie is in Harlem, but the Sheridans the blue,” Pirkis, who now goes to boarding mind of the beholder. So when director Jim lived in a tiny railroad apartment in Hell’s Kitchen while school, explains. “Obviously, every young boy Sheridan and two of his daughters, Naomi, 30, and Jim ran the Irish Arts Center. He also worked odd jobs dreams of possibly becoming an actor.” eye® Kirsten, 27, began writing three separate scripts answering phones and mopping floors and once dragged a for a film based on their family’s emigration from stolen air conditioner from the theater through the streets of Ireland to the U.S. in the early Eighties, nothing, New York. “My mom and dad always made it feel like it was not even the things they wanted to forget, was off limits. a big adventure,” says Naomi. “We moved into this “When they wrote their drafts, my character literally apartment and they completely sold it to us on the fact that disappeared out of the story,” jokes Sheridan, who also it had a window seat, which we thought was fabulous.” directed “In the Name of the Father” and “My Left Foot.” Compiling their separate scripts into a final product was “And they wrote all this stuff where I embarrassed them in a chance for the family to spend time together, given that PHOTO BY STEPHEN VAUGHAN PHOTO BY school because I put plastic bags over my head in the rain.” they live all over the world. (Jim’s wife, and the girls’ STEPHEN VAUGHAN PHOTO BY “He never had an umbrella,” Kirsten chimes in. “We’d mother, Fran, helped in the editing room.) During the actual always be coming out of school and we’d be like, ‘Where’s filming, however, Naomi and Kirsten stayed away from the Dad? Oh, he’s the one with the bag over his head.’” set and from the actresses who play them in the film. The incident never made its way into “In America,” which “We didn’t want to put the girls on the spot,” says Naomi. hit theaters last Wednesday, but the film does chronicle many “And I knew if I was on set, I’d want to do things of the Sheridans’ real life experiences, even if they are differently,” adds Kirsten. tweaked for dramatic effect. In the movie, a struggling actor, Naomi and Kirsten both say that spending time with Jim his wife and their two daughters move to Harlem after losing in the theater allowed them to forge their own careers in the their son, Frankie. In 1981, the Sheridans moved to New York business. Naomi, who is now writing a TV series and just with Naomi, then 9, and Kirsten, then 5, so that Jim could try finished writing a contemporary screenplay based on an to make it in the entertainment business. After illegally obscure Greek tragedy, lives in New York and has the same crossing into the States via Canada, the family lived in a landlord that the Sheridans had over 20 years ago. Kirsten, series of rundown apartment buildings and eventually based in Dublin, made her feature film debut in 2001 with moved back to Ireland in 1988. “Disco Pigs” and is at work on two more screenplays. Jim, The addition of the Frankie character in the script gave also in Dublin, is writing a script about an Irish-American Max Pirkis in “Master and Commander.” the grieving family an emotional hurdle to overcome and it political family that he insists is “not the Kennedys.” During was, for Jim, a hurdle that was rooted in reality. Jim’s the whole process, however, the youngest Sheridan daughter, But for now, the acting career is on hold. brother, Frankie, died from a brain tumor as a child. He Tess, 18, who is in school, just sat back and watched. “I think it’d be nice to pursue, but it just added the character not only to provide an arc for the story, “Tess is the poor little rich girl. When she was born, I did depends on what comes up in the future. If I but also to give himself a degree of distance. “It wasn’t until ‘My Left Foot’ and made money,” says Jim. “She said we all was going to take it seriously, I’d like to mix I did that that I got a perspective on my character and I bonded when we were poor without her, but now that she’s between stage and film, but I’ve got exams.” could laugh at him,” he says. seen the new movie, she feels bonded with the family, too.” As a movie buff — he most recently saw The family’s apartment also got a cinematic makeover. — Jamie Rosen “Love Actually” with his parents — Pirkis found the process of making a film fascinating. “It was strange to see how it all LONDON — If you can works and knowing that’s how they did that,” have a nightclub in a Pirkis says. To achieve the amputee effect, GROUP THERAPY church, why not a for example, Pirkis had to keep his hand by The exterior of cultural conglomerate in his side and wear a prosthetic arm. “I had the Hospital. a hospital? Dave Stewart never experienced anything like it before. of The Eurythmics and You see something and you think it’s two Microsoft co-founder hours and you think that’s it, but actually Paul Allen have just there’s so much that goes into it.” opened the Hospital, a Though he’s gotten to attend all sorts of 60,000-square-foot flashy premieres for the movie, Pirkis insists multifunctional center on he doesn’t get star struck — “It’s quite cool PHOTOS BY TIM JENKINS the site of a 19th century seeing all the stars and stuff but it’s not like hospital in Covent wow, amazing” — and he found Crowe to be Garden that they hope “pretty normal” and “quite cool.” will be like Andy Warhol’s By the time all of his school friends see Factory. “If we do it right, the movie, which they won’t be able to do this will be the biggest The exhibition space at the Hospital. until Christmas break, things may start to cultural bombshell the country has ever seen,” says Stewart, cruising the opening party. change. “I hope no one makes too big a deal The venue’s seven floors, opening in phases, will include a café and gallery space, of it,” Pirkis says. “It hasn’t taken off in which has already hosted a hip-hop exhibition and will show Annie Leibovitz’s music England yet, but everyone knows about it. It photography next year; a 2,700-square-foot TV and recording studio where Jude Law gets annoying because it’s the same has rehearsed for “Alfie”; and in 2004, a restaurant, a library and a small screening questions the whole time — ‘How much did room. Also to come is a private club with its 800 founding members from the you get paid?’ or ‘What was Russell Crowe entertainment industry to be selected by a committee. like?’ And people are making the same “The most groovy times in pop culture were when one medium was integrated with jokes all the time and it’s not that funny another,” Stewart explains. “The Hospital has been created from the ground up so anymore. Just like ‘Oh you lose your arm’ or that people can work and play in an environment where they will be surrounded by all quoting things from the trailer,” he goes on. this creative and technological intelligence. This will be a real living, breathing, “But obviously, there’s no point in being creative community.” rude to them, so I just nod along and smile.” — Elisa Anniss — Marshall Heyman She’s tenacious. Anderson Bros. Jewelers Smart. Confident and Lubbock, Texas Aucoin-Hart Jewelers comfortable in her own skin. Metairie, Louisiana Bailey’s Fine Jewelry If anybody was born to wear diamonds... Raleigh, North Carolina Becker’s Diamonds lots of them...it’s her. She looks as great & Fine Jewelry West Hartford, Connecticut in a pair of jeans as she does Bergstrom’s Minneapolis, Minnesota in her sexiest evening gown. Bremer Jewelry Peoria, Illinois She deserves the best. Bromberg & Co., Inc. No matter what. Birmingham, Alabama W.R. Chance Jewelry Annapolis, Maryland ® Leading Jewelers of the World B.C. Clark Jewelers Oklahoma City, Oklahoma caters to women like her. Ginger’s Jewelry Roanoke, Virginia Women like you. 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For more information, contact www.ljotw.com 6 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 1, 2003 Miss Match

Echo’s silk twill halter and purse. Pants from Marc by Marc Jacobs. ASHION ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT SOFIA BORGES; STYLED BY ASSISTANT: F

NEW YORK — Once upon a time, “matchy- matchy” used to be a derisive term. But not anymore. It’s no longer enough to have the perfect handbag to complement an outfit; this season, the bag should match the clothes. As accessories designers break into ready-to-wear and vice versa, there are plenty of coordinating looks for spring.

Karen Walker’s cotton canvas bag and trenchcoat. United Bamboo shoes. PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODEL: KATARINA M./ELITE; MAKEUP BY ROANNA AND HAIR BY KELLY GOLA, TRICOMI MANAGEMENT; BOTH FOR WARREN KELLY ROANNA AND HAIR BY M./ELITE; MAKEUP BY ERICKSEN; MODEL: KATARINA KYLE PHOTOS BY WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 1, 2003 7

J & M Davidson’s Moschino Cheap & cotton dress and Chic’s cotton matching cotton sweater set and and leather tote. coordinating bag. Shorts by Chaiken.

Tocca’s silk and cotton dress and cotton bag. 8 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 1, 2003 Shoppers Come Out; Stores

Continued from page one single digit sales gains, and a tight grasp on inventories. South Coast Plaza So far this season, retailers have offered fewer reported double- coupons, but more early-bird specials, and no super-hot digit gains. selling item has emerged. Stores seem to be doing best selling a range of luxury goods, fashions infused with color, toys, electronics such as small appliances that are being discounted as well as DVD players, and career and dressier clothes. As far as this past weekend, considered the opening gun for the Christmas season, there was less browsing, and about an even split between consumers shopping for themselves, and shopping for gifts. A bleak and rainy Friday in the Northeast was offset by Saturday’s and Sunday’s cold, dry weather, but the nation’s leading mall developers, including Taubman Centers, The Rouse Co., General Growth Properties Co. and Simon Property Group, reported strong traffic at many of their centers. “For Friday and Saturday, our business was better than the trend for the year, we beat plan, and we beat last year,” said Hal Kahn, chairman and chief executive of Macy’s East. “We were very, very pleased, though there were no major surprises. We anticipated that newness would sell. Misses’ career apparel, misses’ suits, urban looks in juniors, jewelry and handbags, were all very, very strong. I don’t know if shoppers are buying earlier, but they are looking for newness and buying gifts.” Kahn said Mother Nature is key. “If the weather stays dry and cold, our optimism will turn to complete confi- dence,” he said. “Over 25 percent of our business in November and December is with cold weather mer- chandise,” with Black Friday being one of Macy’s top five or six volume days of the year. Michael Gould, chairman and ceo of Bloomingdale’s, said Friday’s business was above last year and above plan. More significantly, “It’s been a very strong month, particularly in the apparel business with upscale mer- chandise with limited distribution. The average unit sale is higher than a year ago,” Gould added. “We’re sell- ing more at regular price. That’s encouraging.” Gould also said Bloomingdale’s is in its third year of reducing price promoting, and dropped a newspaper insert with coupons and a two million circulation that would have run the Sunday before Thanksgiving. Another insert for December was dropped, and a third this month is being pared back. Gould said the goal is to reduce promoting by 10 to 15 percent every year. At Barneys New York, Howard Socol, chairman, ceo and president, said post-Thanksgiving gains were in the high single digits. “We’re very pleased. We took less Career apparel markdowns and delayed some. It’s going to be a prof- is selling well itable November and December. We just feel a good con- Ringing in the holiday spirit on Fifth Avenue. at Macy’s. sistent flow of business.” Barneys’ best area was shoes, which is generally a self-purchase. Handbags, cold weather goods, jewelry and Co-op were also strong, Socol added. He also said There are some brighter spots — tax news, the stock market — Barneys had additional staff on the selling floors, in “ anticipation of more traffic this year. “It was just a very but there’s still a lot of people out of work and there’s the unsettling solid beginning [to the holiday season] particularly in the luxury sector.” global situation. I don’t think people are spending with a great sense At Bergdorf Goodman, “Business was fine, but for us it’s not like a super-duper weekend. The month was ter- of optimism, yet it’s better than last year. Traffic is up. rific,” said ceo Ron Frasch. “We are very optimistic — Tom” DeRosa, The Rouse Co. about December.” Resortwear, color, boucle, suits, acces- sories, and footwear were some strong areas last month at Bergdorf ’s. “Inventories are a little up over last year, sense of optimism, yet it’s better than last year. Traffic is door at Penney’s new Cedar Hill, Tex., store, according but volume growth is outpacing inventory growth. We’re up.” to a spokeswoman. The crowds snapped up Penney’s not worried about running out of goods,” Frasch said. DeRosa added, “There seems to be less of the daily promotional items such as a 1-carat diamond bracelet Tracy Mullin, president and ceo of the National fear that something is going to happen on U.S. soil. for $99, women’s handbags and fashion jewelry, leather Retail Federation, summed up the mood. “Consumers People have a better idea of what’s happening, and that outerwear, lingerie and monogrammed sweaters, all at were not just window shopping, which they sometimes allows people to plan better. But I don’t think the econo- varying discounts. do this time of year. They were actually buying things. my is all that much better.” On Saturday, Penney’s scored big with a buy-one, get- There are no major negatives out there. Retailers Retailers nationwide were using new strategies to one for 88 cents promotion in some departments, includ- seem more committed than ever before to not slash entice shoppers, often opening earlier and rewarding ing women’s fashion jewelry. Penney’s expects fourth prices, and they are trying some innovative ways to get the early birds. Saks Fifth Avenue opened at 8 a.m. quarter comp-store sales to inch ahead by low single dig- customers into the stores. It will be a good solid holi- Friday, an hour earlier than a year ago, offered coffee its, while Federated Department Stores expects plus or day — not a spectacular one.” The NRF has forecast a and croissants, and ran significant discounts, from 40 minus a point. 5.7 percent total sales gain for America’s retailers this percent early in the day, to 25 percent later. The compa- At the sprawling Dallas Galleria, stores were jammed Christmas. That would bring the season’s spending to ny declined to comment on business, though “traffic was Friday and Saturday and parking spaces were almost $217.4 billion and make it the best since 1999. The peri- brisk,” said Jaqui Lividini, senior vice president of fash- nonexistent early in the morning. At Macy’s, Nordstrom od accounts for between 25 and 40 percent of a retail- ion merchandising. “Luxury and color have been the and Saks, areas getting the most action were women’s er’s revenues. biggest trends,” including status bags, such as Prada, accessories and jewelry, beauty and apparel, including Compared with NRF’s very positive forecasting, Tom Gucci and Marc Jacobs, and novelty cashmeres. She also heavily promoted cold-weather styles and early spring DeRosa, vice chairman of The Rouse Co., was more cir- cited Burberry cashmere scarves, and fine jewelry such looks that weren’t deeply discounted, according to sales cumspect. He did say traffic at several Rouse malls was as diamond beveled watches, chandeliered earrings, associates at the stores. strong, though he added, “People are being reserved. and cuff links from Dunhill. Color watch bands, the pink NorthPark Center was packed early Friday, with The economy isn’t that much better than last year. There nylon quilted Prada bag, Marc Jacobs Stella bag in pink sweaters, coats, accessories and fashion and fine jewel- are some brighter spots — tax news, the stock market — and lavender, Burberry men’s boxer shorts in Burberry ry the most popular areas, according to sales associates. but there’s still a lot of people out of work and there’s the check, have also been bestsellers. At Neiman’s, resort, warmer-weather fashions were pop- unsettling global situation. That all makes people very Penney’s opened at 6 a.m. on Friday with lines at ular among women planning holiday vacations. cautious. I don’t think people are spending with a great many locations, including 200 shoppers waiting at the Carl Rosendorf, president and ceo of the $100 million, WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 1, 2003 9 s Sing High Note for Holiday

Christmas Shopping carts on ice at were filled outside the Dallas Wal-Mart in Galleria. Chelmsford, Mass.

Bloomingdale’s did best with its most upscale products.

privately-held Smart Bargains.com off-price apparel Mettler conceded regional problems, such as the gro- and A.G. Jeans sold well as did soft feminine sweaters in Web site, said his gift-related sales start to build in early cery store and transit strikes in Los Angeles, have pastel pink, ivory and periwinkle. Topping teens’ holi- November and by the last week of the month, “It’s roar- slowed down several stores’ sales of late. The strikes day lists were fleece-nylon “Denali” jackets from The ing. The online shopper recognizes that the time line is have made shopping for food and transportation difficult North Face, Nike’s low-rise workout pants and Nike’s different for them. They want to ensure that their gifts and usurped recreational shopping time. Although the “Sphere” jackets. In accessories, Nordstrom reported arrive well before the time they need them.” grocery strike still lingers on, “we’re seeing signs that brisk sales of multicolored opaque tights from DKNY He said his business Thursday through Saturday was things are getting somewhat better,” he added. and Hue and initials on big leather satchels. well over 30 percent above last year. “What is most Executives at South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Calif. Wet Seal’s 622 units, suffering from not-so-trendy intriguing is that Americans are dressing up, whether were more upbeat. Most stores exceeded last year’s sales product mixes causing comp store sales declines for it’s men’s and women’s suits, dress shirts, ties, handbags, by mid-afternoon on Friday, said spokeswoman Debra several quarters now, hit plan over Thanksgiving week- scarves, jewelry and even cashmere, which may have Gunn Downing. Stores there had been recording double- end, according to ceo Peter Whitford. “We’re not unhap- previously been considered more casual. It’s also trans- digit increases in November and “we expect the same py at all,” he said, adding all three divisions, Wet Seal, lating into the home, with down comforters with higher trend to continue through the end of holiday season,” Arden B. and Zutopia, “did well” despite bad weather in thread counts. We can’t keep 600 or 1,000 thread counts she said. “Orange County is in a bit of a bubble. We’ve not the Midwest. Cashmere sweaters at Arden B., angora in stock. The quality is very important.” had much unemployment here, there’s an extreme sweaters at Wet Seal and wool sweaters at Zutopia On the West Coast, the Thanksgiving weekend was amount of wealth and there’s a lot of refinancing of drove sales as did denim and corduroy pants in the decent, not outstanding. “It looks like a pretty good start money back into this economy.” three divisions. Black party dresses festooned with to the holiday season,” said Robert Mettler, chairman Door busters and promotions at department stores sequins, studded initial T-shirts and black-and-pink T- and ceo of San Francisco-based Macy’s West, expecting helped to generate crowds and queues as early as 4:30 shirts printed with illustrations of dogs, poodles and between a flat-to-1-percent increase in comp-store sales a.m. on Friday and kept up some momentum through the cats were strong items at Arden B. But in all stores, this season over last from 110 units. weekend. “softer colors such as pinks, winter whites, pale blues “It was certainly better than last year,” he continued. At Mervyn’s, traffic was up from last year, said a and camels were all very good for us,” said Whitford. “But it’s still too early to tell. We will be cautiously opti- spokeswoman, helped along by $5 promo cards given to Wal-Mart shoppers hauled out gift sets, small elec- mistic that it will be better than last year but to what the first 350 customers at each of the chain’s 267 stores tronics and appliances, holiday decor, children’s cloth- degree, I don’t know.” on Friday. Customers, who formed lines 5:30 a.m., were ing, toys and fleece sweat suits. On Friday, the world’s Unlike last year, there wasn’t one standout item like let in the door at 7 a.m. to pick up basic fleece zip-front largest chain raked in $1.52 billion from its 3,499 U.S. the Juicy Couture velour sweat suit to cause a buying pullovers, monogrammed sweaters and initial purses. stores, a 6.3 percent increase over its $1.43 billion per- frenzy. But details such as pastel colors and initials on Teen girls were drawn to retro Eighties licensed goods formance last year, the company announced Saturday. everything from T-shirts to handbags emerged as the sea- from “Care Bear,” “My Little Pony” and “Strawberry The gain came after an even more robust 14.4 percent son’s must-haves across several categories. Shortcake.” gain last year. Macy’s West kept inventories lean while still having At Nordstrom in the Glendale Galleria in Glendale, Coffee makers, crock pots, toasters, and mini food plenty of what the customer wanted, said Mettler. This Calif., crowds lined up at 5 a.m. to have a shot at gold processors priced $4.86 apiece hit big with customers, a year, it was cashmere sweaters, career clothing and keys given out to the first 300 people, five of which would Wal-Mart spokeswoman said, though shoppers rushing to handbags that drove the women’s business. Cooler open five boxes containing $150 gift certificates. It was grab $29.99 portable DVD players trampled a woman in weather in the region helped along outerwear sales, too, not a chain-wide promotion, said a spokeswoman. an Orange City, Fla. store. The woman was knocked specifically Marc Jacobs and DKNY coats. Sales of skirts Throughout the chain, velour sweat suits continued to unconscious but survived. and premium denim from DKNY, Polo Ralph Lauren sell across all price points, sizes and brands. In contem- Large and lavish-seeming gift sets at rock-bottom and Tommy Hilfiger also kept pace. porary, James Perse’s off-the-shoulder cotton T-shirts Continued on page 10 10 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 1, 2003

Bargain hunters at Wal-Mart.

Penney’s buy-one get-one for 88 cents went over big. Filene’s in Boston celebrates Christmas. PHOTOS BY JOHN CALABRESE, ED MACKINNON, JAN JARECKI AND GEORGE MAYO HENSON 2ND JOHN CALABRESE, ED MACKINNON, JAN JARECKI AND GEORGE MAYO PHOTOS BY PHOTOS BY JOHN CALABRESE, ED MACKINNON, JAN JARECKI AND GEORGE MAYO HENSON 2ND JOHN CALABRESE, ED MACKINNON, JAN JARECKI AND GEORGE MAYO PHOTOS BY Holiday Shoppers Hit the Malls

Continued from page 9 At South Shore Plaza, in Braintree, Mass., electronics dominated purchasing, the prices also appeared to do well. A 30-plus piece vanity set, in a box the size of a cup- Simon spokeswoman said. Children visiting Santa at that mid-tier mall were over- board door, went for $8.87. heard wishing for cell phones and play stations, she said. Linda Lubin and daughter Alyssa, shopping at a Wal-Mart in Danvers, Mass., want- A Filene’s spokeswoman said Friday’s fog dampened traffic only slightly and ed two of those vanity sets for “little grab gifts for holiday parties.” that turnout for traditional events — the unveiling of Nutracker-themed windows, Lubin complained an associate wouldn’t help her reach the boxes, which were the arrival of Santa and the tree lighting with performance by the Boston placed on an overhead shelf. Symphony Orchestra — was very strong. “We had trumpeters playing and people “Well, if it falls on your head we’ll just sue,” she griped as her daughter angled for just rushed up to the windows,” she said. “Since 9/11 people seemed to really love the boxes with a clothes hanger. Lubin estimated she’d spend $100 at Wal-Mart, but said those things.” she planned to do most of her shopping from the Penney and Newport News catalogs. On the less traditional side, Filene’s offered a new section of electronics, including Although the apparel department didn’t appear busier than usual, a Wal-Mart digital cameras and the department store exclusive on the new generation Apple iPod. spokeswoman cited the stain-resistant fleece, advertised in Thanksgiving circulars at T.J. Maxx in Framingham, Mass. seemed to have trouble competing with the early $4 to $8 per piece, as big sellers. bird hubbub. Unlike big box stores who fattened the Thanksgiving Nearby, one competitor played hardball with Wal-Mart. On newspaper with circulars, the off-price giant takes a low key Saturday, Kids ‘R’ Us employees brandished signs touting “liquidation I don’t know if approach to Black Friday. “Maybe we’ll get some customers in later,” prices” at the turnoff to the Danvers store. “ a cashier groused. TJX Cos. had no comment. A Target store in Woburn, Mass. offered customers “rain check” In the Washington, D.C., Hecht’s opened before dawn Friday to tickets guaranteeing prices on sold-out items. Several Mossimo shoppers are crowds. Apparel sales filled the stores and there were $15-off sweaters had only a few sizes left, Merona socks were low as was a dis- coupons, which meant shoppers could buy a $19.99 merino wool play of Sauve fruity body lotions and washes, priced $1.54. The Virgin buying earlier, but sweater or pair of women’s corduroy pants for $4.99. The coupons pro- Pulse MP 3 ($79.99) and portable DVD player ($99.77), a Target exclu- vided an extra lure for shoppers who had to face a nasty Friday rain- sive, sold out at the store on Friday. they are looking storm and brisk Saturday winds, which seemed to limit crowds in The Minneapolis-based retailer had knocked back prices through- retail-rich Georgetown. out the store, advertising “prices so low they only last two days.” The for newness and But not all retailers were counting on low prices and moving apparel department seemed slightly busier than usual, although toys, shelves of merchandise to pump up revenue, like at designer bou- holiday decor, food, beauty and electronics appeared to be the busiest buying gifts....If tique Relish in Chevy Chase, Md., just outside Washington on departments. A cashier said the biggest rush was Friday morning, but Wisconsin Ave., where nary markdown sales sign could be found. the day overall was quieter than management had hoped. the weather stays Relish’s post-Thanksgiving business was “OK” but above last year, “I think they were expecting a little more [traffic],” he said. said owner Nancy Pearlstein. She isn’t dismayed since the last two Tricia Wilde, who sells her handbag designs at craft shows, said the dry and cold, our weeks were up 10 percent over last year, she said. Hot sellers include low prices impressed and scared her. She was shopping mainly for toys $450 private label Italian stretch above-the-knee velvet dresses with for her young sons, but had plunked a couple of Mossimo zip hoodies optimism will turn low backs, and $50 to $60 camisoles with matching $35 to $40 tap pants for herself into her cart. from the Los Angeles manufacturer, Underglam. “The prices are so aggressive,” she said. “No wonder people don’t to complete Crowds packed Tysons Corner Center in McClean, Va., which on want to spend $25 on my handbags.” Friday marketing director Eric Kulczycky judged to be the largest Pointing to a set of gloves, priced $1.47 for two pairs, she said confidence. day-after-Thanksgiving in his seven years at the mall. “Retailers so far crafters buy gloves at Target, embellish and resell them. She estimat- — Hal Kahn, Macy’s” East have given us good feedback on sales and we’re very optimistic this ed she’d spend $100 “unless I find something spectacular. I’m with my holiday season” for strong sales, he said, noting several hundred park- kids today, so it’s hard to do a big shopping.” ing spaces at nearby offices have been rented to handle spill over from the 10,000- After contending with snow last year, Boston-area retailers were thankful for a space Tysons parking garages. mild, foggy weekend with temperatures around 50 degrees. Across the street at Tysons Galleria, a “nice crowd” turned out on Friday and early People shopped early and in groups, buying for themselves and for their compan- sales reports were upbeat, said Jaime Freedman, senior director of marketing. ions, who often picked out what they wanted. Taubman Centers reported that for Friday, many merchants ended up mid-single Sales were up double digits for many upscale retailers at Copley Place in downtown digit increases, no one category stood out and business was really spread out across all Boston, which houses Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Dior boutiques, according to a spokes- categories and malls, with electronics, toys mentioned frequently as big sellers. The woman from Simon Property Group, owner of Copley and 245 other properties around biggest crowd waiting to get in a store Friday morning was at Filene’s at Westfarms in the country. Luxury fabrics like cashmere, leather, fur and suede performed well Farmington, Conn. where 700 people lined up at 6 a.m. to take advantage of a $15 gift there, she said. card promotion, and in many cases, they bought toys. Among hottest items: Mighty By 11:30 a.m. on Friday, the parking lot was full at the Mall at Chestnut Hill, in Beanz, Beyblades, and Bratz dolls. Chestnut Hill, Mass. anchored by Bloomingdale’s, the Simon spokeswoman said. Ready-to-wear performed well there, although she declined to specify what store or — With contributions from Kristin Young, Los Angeles; Rusty Williamson, brand specifically. Dallas; Joanna Ramey, Washington, and Katherine Bowers, Boston WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 1, 2003 11

Fine Jewelry Report It’s Time for Shine to Return

and now its jewelry is sold in five Saks locations. By Marc Karimzadeh To facilitate its wholesale expansion, Graff has opened a new corpo- NEW YORK — The sparkle should be back in 2004. rate headquarters on 48th Street in Manhattan, which also has a dia- SARS, a worldwide travel slump and conflicts in the Middle mond cutting factory. East and other regions have made this year particularly chal- Barguirdjian said he is optimistic about business for 2004. Graff has lenging for the $43 billion fine jewelry and watch sector, but been working to build its brand here via advertising and marketing, many executives are heading into the holiday season look- moves which Barguirdjian said seem to be resonating with consumers. ing for an uptick. They feel the economy is showing signs of “People are very well educated about diamonds now, especially in a rebound and consumers seem to be ready to buy luxury America,” he said. “They are discriminating about where they shop again. This should translate into a stronger-than-expected and they want fine quality, and that is what Graff is known for.” fourth quarter and trigger a trend that is likely to carry through Daniel Lalonde, president and ceo at LVMH Watch & Jewelry North 2004, executives said. America, said, “At LVMH, we are looking at next year quite positively. If Graff just opened its second “For 2004, we think you look at the economic environment, it is more positive over the past U.S. store on Worth Avenue. it’s realistic to expect few months.” that we’ll be operating Last month, LVMH’s Tag Heuer division introduced a version of the in a better environment signature Formula 1 collection, which is priced between $600 and $800, to than that of 2003, which provide an entry point for younger consumers, Lalonde said. Tag Heuer is was characterized by events also developing a line of classic watches based on the signature Carrera

PHOTO BY D.J. MCPHERSON PHOTO BY such as the war and SARS,” model, to be launched next year. Bulgari chief executive offi- “Our strategy is to continue to grow with our current retailers cer Francesco Trapani A ring from Cartier’s and we are not interested in expanding the number of doors, said recently. new Delices de Goa Foreforecast but rather we want to go deeper,” Lalonde said. “We are very Executives have rea- collection, which is positive and we will be investing more into the brands. Our son to feel confident about their category. Fine jewelry and launching nationwide budgets are headed in the north direction. We are setting watches have gained in prominence on the red carpet and de- next month. plans for double-digit growth.” signer runway shows, and trends such as turquoise and chandelier Lalonde noted that service is a key component he is seek- earrings have generated much buzz and heightened consumer interest in the category. ing to improve further next year. “Next year, I expect the interest in jewelry to increase,” said Stanislas de 04 “We have a large investment with consumers up to the time Quercize, president and ceo of Cartier. “There’s more confidence in the economy, pos- ’ they buy a timepiece,” he said. “We want to make sure we have the itive thinking and people are reacting to creativity.” Tag or Dior consumer living the brand experience after they make the Next month, Cartier plans a nationwide rollout of its new Les Delices purchase, so it is important to remain in a dialogue with them.” de Goa collection, which was launched at the Fifth Avenue flagship Meanwhile, many smaller jewelry companies are planning to step here, Beverly Hills, Chicago and Bal Harbor and Palm Beach in up their distribution by looking at new distribution channels. Florida last month. The Goa collection hones in on colored semi- Designer Leslie Greene currently sells her jewelry to about 95 in- precious stones such as amethyst, coral and turquoise, and is dependent jewelers and 20 Saks Fifth Avenue stores. In 2004, she priced from $3,650 to $21,600. Cartier also plans a nationwide anticipates adding 20 new independent jewelers. launch of its Panthere collection, which updates and reworks “I am increasing my advertising [budget] by probably about 40 Cartier’s signature panther theme, and a new women’s ver- percent, and I will advertise in more magazines and kiosks, and sion of the Roadster watch. also do more in terms of public relations,” Greene said. “[The U.S. market is] 35 percent of the worldwide Paul Morelli, too, is looking to step up his presence in independ- wealth, 50 percent of the car consumption and only 15 ent jewelry stores. The designer’s collection is currently sold in 15 percent of the worldwide watch and jewelry consump- independent jewelers and he plans to add 35 next year. tion,” said de Quercize. “Next year, we hope to convince “Over the past 10 years, we more people [to buy jewelry and watches]. You see have been mainly focused on more jewelry on the cover of magazines.” fashion and specialty stores,” Before year’s end, Cartier is planning to open a store Morelli said. “We will continue at the Americana Manhasset in Manhasset, N.Y., and to grow that. We had put the in- renovate its Costa Mesa, Calif., boutique with the new dependent jewelry retailer on store concept, which bowed in Paris earlier this year and the back burner a little, but now we features sandblasted oak walls, Art Deco-influenced are getting more involved.” bronze display cases and a crystal chandelier. Last month, Morelli opened a 2,000- Next year, Cartier will bring the new store concept to its square-foot appointment-only boutique Beverly Hills, Waikiki, Chicago and Bal Harbor boutiques. in his hometown of Philadelphia and Graff, meanwhile, is focusing on opening new stores. The said he would like to open more Paul Morelli plans more stores like this, high-end diamond jewelry firm has just opened its second U.S. stores, though he hasn’t confirmed which opened in Philadelphia last month. store on Worth Avenue in Palm Beach, Fla., and has started con- Tag Heuer’s any specific plans. struction on a two-story location on Oak Street in Chicago slated updated “The biggest challenge now is to come up with fresh new ideas,” to open at the beginning of 2005. Formula 1 Morelli said. “We came off of this big chandelier thing and it’s been “Palm Beach is a really strong market for high-end jewelry,” watch. maxed out. The new challenge is to find the next big thing.” said Henri Barguirdjian, president of Graff in the U.S. “They still Janice Winter, president at Judith Ripka, said, “There is a lot more love big diamonds in Florida.” competition...there is pressure on value and price point, and as con- Graff has also been expanding its wholesale business with Saks sumers start to see so many people coming into the market, they be- Fifth Avenue, a project that will continue into the new year. Graff last come more savvy. It becomes more important to differentiate yourself.” year began selling some of its diamond jewelry in the New York flagship — With contributions from Melanie Kletter

Antwerp High Diamond Council made their case for expanding this hub for the New Facets for the Diamond Industry uncut diamond trade into a center for diamond jewelry. Some 80 percent of the world’s rough diamonds and half its polished diamonds pass through Antwerp. NEW YORK — The diamond industry is in the midst of tremendous change as manu- HRD wants to promote Antwerp as a one-stop shop for clients to buy and ship. facturers of all stripes look to brand themselves and the De Beers Group loses its “Big or small, expensive or cheap, it is a new world for branded and marketed firm grip on the world’s diamond supply. diamond jewelry and it needs its own supermarket,” said Peter Meeus, HRD’s This was the focus of two recent conferences: the first Rapaport International managing director. Diamond Conference, which took place in October in New York, and the Antwerp Faced with slumping consumer demand, a high level of debt and high inventories Diamond Conference, which was held last month in Belgium and featured former of polished stones, many diamond firms are seeking ways to reinvent themselves. President Bill Clinton as the keynote speaker. Martin Coeroli, managing director of nonprofit organization Perles de Tahiti, dis- “De Beers used to be the major player and control 85 percent of the diamond cussed how his group has branded Tahitian pearls. He attributed the group’s success market, and now it controls 55 percent,” said Dilip Mehta, president and chief exec- in large part to an aggressive public relations campaign and endorsements by such utive officer of Rosy Blue Group, the diamond concern that makes jewelry for Vera Hollywood stars as Julia Roberts, Sharon Stone and Halle Berry. Wang, at Rapaport. “We have also seen the consolidation of wholesalers and the ero- Stephen Lussier, executive director of marketing for the Diamond Trading Co., sion of margins due to increased rough prices.” said his company expects all its business partners and the companies it supplies to Others outlined what they see as some of the industry’s challenges in the near future. contribute financially and otherwise to marketing diamonds, a move the DTC has “Consumers are demanding greater value from what they buy and how they spend been pushing heavily in the last year as it seeks to encourage the introduction of their money,” said Terry Burman, ceo of Signet Group, which owns Kay Jewelers. more diamond brands. “And we live in a world of shrinking gross margins.” Speaking at a gala dinner, Clinton underscored the importance of stemming the Ed Bridge, president and joint ceo of Ben Bridge Jewelers, said he is looking for world’s trade in illegal rough diamonds — often used to fund terrorist activities — growth of between 3 and 4 percent in 2004. Nonetheless, he noted that there is more and commended the industry for its efforts to do so through the Kimberley Process. competition today than there has ever been. “Wal-Mart has discovered jewelry,” he “We have to make a world with more partners and fewer terrorists and fewer ene- said. “They want more of this business.” mies,” he said. Meanwhile, at the Antwerp conference, local government officials and the — Melanie Kletter, New York, and Renee Cordes, Brussels 12 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 1, 2003

Accessories Report A Rising Tide for a Crowded Pool By Melanie Kletter serious about this segment, and the recent runway shows in New York were again filled with all manner of hand- NEW YORK — Citing an improved economic climate bags and accessories. and salable trends, firms throughout the accessories As part of its efforts to expand now that it’s owned by sector are planning for a better year in 2004. Sportswear Holdings Ltd., Michael Kors recently hired Fall sales have been above plan at many chains, leading Donna Karan veteran Anna Bakst to oversee its acces- some stores to increase their spending on accessories for sories business, marking the first time it has had a full- spring, and a number of firms said they expect to notch time person devoted to this category. double-digit sales growth in the year to come. In its core Michael Kors brand, the company JOHNPHOTO BY AQUINO “We are expecting 2004 to be a very has a small line of handbags good year,” said Al Schatzberg, president Michael Kors is done in-house, as well as of Ilana Wolf Inc., which sells wraps and stepping up shoes and eyewear pro- Foreforecast capes and for spring is introducing a accessories, duced under license, and it Ilana Wolf has small collection of wrist bags. “This is while (inset) is looking to launch addi- introduced the first time since Sept. 11 [2001] that Juicy Couture tional categories, said a wrist bags. people are really shopping again.” handbags company spokeswoman. In Designer Rafe Totengco of fast-grow- are bowing 2004, the company will unveil business and stand out in the crowded pack. ing accessories brand Rafe New York, for 2004. its new lower-priced collection,’04 The founders of The Sak brand are rolling out a said: “The economy is starting to recov- Michael, which is slated to include handbag line under the name Elliott Lucca, while er. In our own store, I’ve seen the num- a range of better-priced accessories, in- scarf company Echo has unveiled its first collection of bers go up steadily since September. I cluding watches, belts and shoes. handbags. The bridal area is getting more attention, with think people have held back enough and “Both in the collection level and the firms such as Judith Jack, Kate Spade and Givenchy all they’re starting to go out again, dress up Michael line, accessories are a key com- introducing accessories designed for weddings. and have fun. In the recent spring mar- ponent of our growth strategy and some- Midpriced accessories firm Dooney & Bourke is fo- ket, we booked close to 40 percent more thing we are very focused on,” the cusing more on the teen market for 2004, following the for spring over last season.” spokeswoman said. success of its It bags, which were created for spring 2003 Nonetheless, the $30 billion Five-year-old American luxury acces- with the help of teenage consumers. Over the last few American accessories market has gotten sories firm Lambertson Truex is looking to years, the company has sought to update its product of- extremely crowded. From Donna Karan expand its business internationally in ferings and carry more fashion-forward and “fun” looks, to Jennifer Lopez, there are few brands 2004, said co-founder John Truex. said Stephen Grisanti, Dooney & Bourke’s director of in fashion these days that don’t have an It has just started selling in retail. The It bag is part of its efforts to reach out to a accessories line of some sort, and more stores in Asia and Europe, and wider audience, he noted. names continue to enter the field. the firm feels it has potential On the retail front, specialty chains such as Club Next year will see a number of to grow its business overseas, Monaco and Gap are increasing their accessories offer- launches from big-name sportswear especially in Japan. ings this year. Evelyn Gorman, owner of the Mix bou- brands, many of which are expanding While Lambertson tique in Houston, which carries a range of designer ap- into new categories after having being Truex is best known parel and accessories, said she expects handbags and bought by bigger companies. For exam- for its handbags and shoes to be especially strong next year. Gorman has re- ple, Juicy Couture, now owned by Liz footwear, it now car- cently opened a shoe salon featuring brands such as Claiborne Inc., is premiering an acces- ries a range of prod- Paul Smith and Narciso Rodriguez, and her handbag se- sories component, which includes an ex- JUICY PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER ucts including belts lection now includes brands such as Balenciaga, Chloé, tensive collection of handbags and jewelry. Nautica, and small leather Lambertson Truex, Lanvin and Kajsa. now owned by VF Corp., has also been steadily build- goods. Gloves will be “We are selling more handbags than we ever have be- ing up its accessories offerings, and for spring it will a big focus heading fore,” she noted. “We are going deeper with brands we introduce footwear at retail and a revamped handbag into the second part of 2004, said Truex. have and giving more room to the category.” collection including both day and evening styles. “We feel really positive for 2004,” he added. “But Vintage costume jewelry from designers such as The upscale segment of the business is seeing an in- there are a lot of players out there. Those that succeed Kenneth Jay Lane has also been a top seller at her store, flux of accessories from American ready-to-wear and are those that take it seriously and have their own vi- Gorman said. sportswear designers. While it used to be the European sion and their own look.” “Spring is going to be a memorable one for retailers in houses that dominated the world of high-end handbags In the mid- and lower-priced segments of the business, terms of sales,” she said. “The spring collections were up- and footwear, now U.S. designers such as Marc Jacobs, a number of established companies are expanding into beat and bright. Despite all the troubles in the world, peo- Oscar de la Renta and Michael Kors have become more new product segments for 2004 as a way to grow their ple are beginning to feel hopeful.” Furla Unfurls Manhattan Flagship

NEW YORK — Furla is embarking on a fresh creative direction and it’s This is the third Furla store worldwide to feature the new design concept, starting with its new store on Madison Avenue here. after Milan and Vienna, and all new stores going forward will include this The Italian accessories company has just opened a sleek and airy design, DiMaio-Lucas said. The upstairs area of the flagship now includes 2,500-square-foot flagship on Madison and East 57th Street, and for spring the company’s showroom and might eventually include other areas of the it will launch its revamped product offerings featuring more feminine business. She projected that the store could reach about $5 million in first- touches, soft leathers and bright colors. year sales. “The store is our flagship for the U.S. and is part of a strategy to expand The flagship includes the full range of Furla products. Although the 76- our presence in America,” Giovanna Furlanetto, Furla’s president and chief year-old Bologna-based company is still best known for its handbags, it now executive officer, said in a phone interview while on her way to visit Furla has a wide selection of product categories including footwear, stores in China. “We think we have huge potential in the U.S. and we would jewelry and watches, belts, scarves, eyewear and small like to continue to build our name here.” leather goods, all of which are produced in-house Furla expects to achieve sales of about $106.2 million worldwide this except for eyewear, which is licensed to De Rigo. year, with about $10 million coming from the U.S., according to Carol In the flagship, products start at around $35 for DiMaio-Lucas, co-managing director of Furla USA. She said plans call for a small key chain and range up to $475 for some of the North American business to reach sales of about $50 million in 2006, the larger leather totes. The bulk of Furla products as a result of growth at company-owned and franchised stores, and its retail for between $150 and $475. wholesale business. To oversee its growth and new direction, the The firm has 161 stores worldwide, and its retail business in North company has hired some new executives, including America includes 20 units, split evenly between franchised and company- creative director Tonya Hawkes, who joined in 2002 owned locations. There is another Furla unit on Madison and East 64th after designing handbags for DKNY. In the U.S., two Street, while its third Manhattan store, located in SoHo, closed this year. executives were named in the last year to run the The flagship, located next to the new Montblanc store in the heart of business here. DiMaio-Lucas oversees marketing, wholesale Manhattan’s luxury district, features a new design concept for Furla that is and retail, while Bruce Pettibone, the other co-managing director, is transparent and light. The 1,000-square-foot selling space on the first floor responsible for finance, operations and franchising. features see-through Plexiglas shelves that are lit from within, as well as open On the wholesale front, Furla’s handbags and other products are sold fixtures in the middle of the floor that can be moved, creating a flexible space. in chains including Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and The walls are made of Italian marmorino plaster, which conveys a look Bloomingdale’s. The firm is still run by members of the founding of soft stone. At the back of the store is a large video screen that will project Furlanetto family out of a villa in Bologna. Furlanetto said footwear has changing shows; it now has videos by artists Sabrina Mezzaqui and Eva been an area of key growth. Introduced in 2002, footwear started to be Marisaldo. sold wholesale for spring 2003 and is now the third biggest category after PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE “This is a fresh direction and a new point of view for Furla,” DiMaio- handbags and small leather goods. Furla’s new flagship has a light and airy design Lucas said last week as finishing touches were being put on the store. — M.K. concept with transparent fixtures. V.V. FRAASFRAAS THE SCARF SOURCE

New York 212.244.2350 • Toronto 416.703.8969 • Chicago 312.670.0320 • Boston 603.749.5738 • St. Louis 314.739.7699 • Minneapolis 320.762.1419 • Seattle 541.902.8840 14 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 1, 2003

Legwear Report Steps to Trigger the Cycle

per socks with a face motif. By Marc Karimzadeh “You have to treat business differently in the first NEW YORK — The outlook for legwear isn’t as bleak as previous three months,” said Susan Spindell, national sales man- seasons, but after years of steady sales declines, makers and re- Foreforecast ager for Hot Sox. “Stores want to do their business early. tailers aren’t being lulled into a false sense of security. Once the weather gets warm and shoes start opening up While many anticipate a stronger-than-usual holiday season, again, it is very hard to plan a sock they know there’s still a lot of work to do to turn this fall’s leg- A floral design by story.” wear boomlet into a real cycle next year. Gold Toe. Doris International Inc., a private The $3 billion category continues to be challenging, as casual label manufacturer, is launching Dream dress still proliferates and retailers shrink their legwear depart-’04 Soles, its first branded collection featur- ments or move them away from prominent main-floor locations. ing casual trouser, dress and sports socks In recent weeks, the sector has also been subjected to ownership with a sole that uses reflexology pressure changes, as consolidation spreads in the marketplace. Fashion invest- points, for spring. ment firm Keystone Holdings acquired Royce Hosiery Mills, Delta Galil “In order to communicate this level Industries bought Kellwood Co.’s Auburn Hosiery Division, and Danskin of comfort, it needed a great package Inc. sold most of the assets of its Pennaco Hosiery unit to JBT Legwear that communicates it and we have done LLC, a new entity created for the acquisition by Barry Tartarkin, that,” said Mitchell Brown, Doris’ presi- Pennaco’s vice president and general manager. dent, on why he entered the branded How the category as a whole will play out next year is anyone’s guess, business. “When you have a story to tell, it needs a but vendors remain hopeful that fashion trends such as miniskirts, sling- strong package. With your own brand, you can do what back and mary jane shoes, and designer interest in hosiery, from bright you want.” opaques to colored fishnets and floral textures, will help trigger con- The collection has 10 styles at $2.45 wholesale. sumer demand in 2004. Distribution is aimed at better department stores, “People are starting to understand legwear is an important fashion ac- though Brown declined to disclose sales projections. cessory,” said John Flynn, vice president of sales at Levante USA. “Years This spring, Levante USA is launching the Jonathan ago, it was just a necessity, but now they’re looking for color and fashion.” Aston line in department and better specialty stores. Maria Basquil, Wolford’s national sales manager, said, “The skirt and Hot Sox is shipping its Levante took the U.S. license for the English label in the pump are back, which will hopefully bring my sheer business to an- Underground group early. October. other level next year. Women want to wear color on the leg. They have PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO The collection hones in on color and open looks, and held back for a while, but now they are ready.” features such fashion styles as Cuban heels with a back seam. Wholesale prices range “There is a lot of fashion selling now and we think that this is a good sign for 2004,” from $3.50 for one-size semi-opaque tights to $7 for patterns and fishnets. Flynn said Pat McNellis, president of women’s brands at Royce. couldn’t give sales projections, but said that distribution targets will be similar to Many are making changes to their routine to zero in on opportunities next year, Levante’s, which is carried in over 2,000 specialty stores, and department stores from adjusting their delivery schedules to launching new collections to lure more Bloomingdale’s, Van Maur, Parisian and Proffitt’s-McRae’s. shoppers into legwear departments. In 2004, Levante’s goal is to step up its core brand in department stores, while Hot Sox, for instance, is shipping some of its groups earlier than anticipated, in- building the Jonathan Aston business. cluding its Underground group, which features Eighties-style tie-dye socks and slip- “With significant additional distribution, we are gearing up to meet the projected

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demand,” Flynn said. “We increased support staff by 30 percent and we almost dou- Royce will add tights to replace sheers at Nine West. Hanes’ Body Enhancers is launching bled our distribution staff.” “Sheers were in such a state of decline that it did a denim-like product in spring. Several firms are increasingly thinking of expanding into legwear-related cate- not make sense for retailers who are moving their gories to help counter any potential declines in hosiery sales. departments to smaller real estate to continue with “Next year will be a continuation of our strategy to diversify our distribution and another brand,” she said. market shares in the stores by adding different classifications such as intimate appar- el and venturing into areas besides legwear,” said Basquil at Wolford, which plans to open partnered Wolford boutiques, including a unit at Boston’s Copley Mall in TRENDCAST February and plans for two more in Canada. ● Knee-highs. Wolford is also upgrading a selection of styles with a new logo and a knitted waist- ● band for comfort, and the company is repackaging its classic legwear and bodywear Legwarmers and leggings. assortment for fall with new images shot by New York-based photography team ● Colored fishnets and floral textures. Markus Klinko and Indrani. ● Texture combinations, such as a fishnet Hanes Hosiery, meanwhile, is launching Tops, a line of nylon spandex tops made with a rib, chevron or herringbone. on hosiery machines. It will be sold in hosiery departments for spring. The company ● is also planning to launch a denim-like hosiery product for its Body Enhancers line, Animal prints and plaids. which targets department stores for January. ● Novelty sport socks and summer Nadine Hall, vice president of marketing at Sara Lee Hosiery, the maker of Hanes solutions. Hosiery, said as some of the core products such as sheer hosiery, are a tougher sell, ● Lime green, blue and white. the firm’s plan is for less basic items to offset the falloff. Kayser-Roth has been working on legwear-related concepts for legwear depart- ments, too. For spring, its Hue division is offering flip-flops, anklets, Moroccan thongs and pedicure kits. “We have to think of new things, particularly for spring when people abandon legwear,” said Molly Mott, vice president of sales for Kayser-Roth. Hue launched sleepwear, panties and daywear like cami- soles this year and the company looks to expand that business next year. “We started out for spring for sleepwear in 400 department store doors, planning to increase that in 2004 to 1,200,” said Mott. “In daywear and panties, we started in 500 doors, and we plan to increase the doors to 1,200.” Main-floor space and materi- al costs will continue as the key challenges next year. “A lot of stores have reduced so much space,” said Brown at Doris. “Now that we are back in a legwear cycle, they will have a difficult time displaying and making a fashion statement with the real estate.” Jim Williams, president and chief executive officer at Gold Toe Brands, stated, “Raw mate- rials costs increase because cot- ton demands, particularly in China, are outpacing the cotton market. That’s a real challenge. We want to keep the margins there and we are contracting out for a very long time to pro- tect where we are today at the available market rate.” Since stores had planned this fall conservatively, many are now finding themselves chasing the business and ven- dors will try to prevent a simi- lar situation next year. “As a manufacturer, planning the inventory levels accurately will be a challenge,” said Spindell at Hot Sox. “We came a little short this fall because we all planned it a little too conser- vatively. So our challenge will be to work really closely with the retail partners and make sure we have the right amount of stock. It’s all about adequate forecasting and good planning.” McNellis at Royce said that one of the key challenges next year will be continuing to offer newness, while controlling the number of price points on the floor. “Right now, the retailer is fo- cused on not having too many price points,” McNellis said. “They are trying to simplify mer- chandising in order to enhance the shopping experience. The biggest challenge is to find a way to get newness on the floor with- out over-complicating it.” For March’s fall market, 16 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 1, 2003

Innerwear Forecast China Quotas Challenge Lingerie Firms By Karyn Monget market share at all channels of distribution. In a preemptive move, industry observers generally Sky blue silk NEW YORK — Innerwear firms are facing a major dilemma believe the cap on imports from China could stimulate slip and soft day bra by as 2004 looms. imports from a range of countries, such as Bangladesh Donna Karan Makers of intimate apparel, a $12.2 billion business at and Canada, both of which have quota-free and duty-free Intimates. retail, are being rocked by what a majority see as the single status, creating competitive price advantages. In addi- biggest challenge of the past decade: the Bush Admin- tion, a continuation of preferential trade agreements istration’s bombshell last month to cap imports of bras, with countries such as Panama, Columbia, Bolivia, Ecua- robes, dressing gowns and knit fabrics from China. It comes dor and Peru could offer alternatives to manufacturers at a time when smaller, independent companies have begun caught in the squeeze. to commit a substantial portion of production to China, Others, including the Victoria’s Secrets and Wal- which will be regarded as new business with a quota limit Marts of the world that have invested immensely in increase of 7.5 percent over the previous year. China, are most likely examining cost efficiencies The sudden upheaval in trade relations fol- of moving production to countries like Vietnam lows several dismal seasons at retail that have and the Philippines. pounded merchants and manufacturers. One Norman Katz, a 40-year veteran of the inti- spark of hope emerged last week with the Foreforecast mate apparel industry and a consultant, stated, announcement by the National Association of “Everybody’s in the same boat, including Vict- Business Economics that the U.S. economy, oria’s Secret. Everybody is scrambling to buy at primed by tax cuts and low interest rates, the lowest cost. Wal-Mart is strictly interested in should grow next year at the fastest pace in two price. If it’s $2.00 in China, $1.90 in South Korea, decades. The Gross Domestic Product is project- or $1.88 in Vietnam, you can be sure Wal-Mart will ed to grow by 4.5 percent in 2004. This is followed’04 go to Vietnam.” by other bullish news that the economy roared ahead Richard Leeds, ceo of Richard Leeds International, at an astounding 8.2 percent rate in this year’s third quar- a maker of novelty sleepwear, said, “It is worthy to note ter, the fastest pace in nearly two decades and a much that although China might lose the manufacturing of the stronger performance than previously thought, according finished product, all of the fabrics and most of the acces- to the Commerce Department. sories will continue to be purchased from China. They will The upcoming trade reforms, though, could be a boon then be exported to neighboring countries like Indonesia, for entrepreneurial fashion firms, mainly because they are Cambodia and Bangladesh for quota-free manufacturing. not involved in huge private label or branded programs, “The reimplementation of quotas and possible phase- and the smaller orders could allow more wiggle room in out through 2008 will have no major impact on our com- sourcing. An example is Ying Li, who was born in China pany. We have already well thought out our strategic plans and has a design studio in Man- in place to expand in the areas hattan. Li turns out luxurious silk Woo’s multicolor we have been manufacturing and cotton sleepwear and robes cashmere cami and within the past 10 to 20 years. that are hand-painted by her boy-cut pants. Some are in Asia, some closer to mother in China. There’s also the U.S., and undoubtedly all are TURNER DAVID PHOTOS BY Lisa Cohen, who designs Lola, a using higher quality, better value president of marketing, stated: “As a company, we have Hoboken, N.J.-based sleepwear fabrics, freely available without continually worked to improve our bottom line in many and daywear brand, and New restriction from China.” ways. Our sourcing and quality control in the countries York designer Leigh Bantivoglio, However, Leeds added that we are in [including China] has been a primary focus to who does signature lace and silk the firm’s French Jenny division get quality product out at great prices while allowing daywear. Each produces the col- imports knit pajama separates ourselves better margins. We have also worked on short- lections locally. from China and has plans under ening lead times and we are tightening our inventory to But a majority of the major way to expand into bras. “We will keep us in a fluid position. makers, such as The Warnaco now be forced to rebook our “Our fiscal year ended June 30 and we had a record Group, Vanity Fair Intimates at commitments in other Asian year. Our first quarter of fiscal 2004 ending Sept. 30 had a VF Corp. and Sara Lee Intimate countries free of these quota 27 percent increase in profits and a healthy sales increase.” Apparel at Sara Lee Corp., as well Jonquil’s blue sateen restrictions,” he said. Radziminsky singled out his biggest industry issue: as midsize firms like NAP Inc., V-neck sleepgown with Tom Ward, president and ceo available open-to-buy. Richard Leeds International and pleated bodice. of Maidenform Inc., said, “In an- Todd Demakos, ceo of St. Eve International, a maker St. Eve International, with roots ticipation of the China safeguard, of women’s and girls’ sleepwear and daywear, said, in China for a decade or longer, we have arranged for additional “Although sales have been flat over last year, we feel are weighing the impact of the product sourcing from alterna- good that we did not lose business in 2003. We lost two new trade rules. Several execu- tive countries. We anticipate no big accounts — Kmart and Express — but compensated tives of these companies said they interruption in service.” with sales from new accounts and growth with existing expect to continue receiving pref- He outlined three strategies accounts. Also, 2002 was a banner year for us, so the fact erential treatment, with the first to improve Maidenform’s bottom that we kept up those numbers in this sluggish retail batch of quotas doled out to the line: product innovation devel- environment is an achievement. Retail is picking up and biggest and best customers. opment, strict expense control we have great new product to introduce.” But without a guarantee, these and reduction of stockkeeping From a designer’s perspective, Mary Green, whose San established companies have im- units to improve productivity. Francisco-based company Mansilk specializes in silk knits plemented one- and two-year strategies with fail-safe meth- Meanwhile, Victor Lee, president of NAP Inc., said his for men and women, said, “I think less specific concern ods such as diversified operations and personnel in differ- company’s biggest challenge is dealing in a cost-efficient about the bottom line and more concern about designing ent countries, including Indonesia, Jordan, Egypt and manner with the “retail results of our customers and the and selling from the heart will surprisingly lead to better Turkey. A number of bra specialists also continue to conduct ripple effects of the overall economy on our customers.” profitability. I would like to see department stores become huge cut-and-sew programs in Puerto Rico, Mexico, the “I think the biggest issue is trying to meet the price less generic, and take a chance on particularly creative Caribbean and Central and South America. While bra man- demands of our customers,” Lee said. “We are being and innovative designers. For a lingerie design firm, the ufacturing is practically nonexistent in the U.S., some com- more vigilant with our costing analysis to secure better biggest issue it faces is to keep the creativity and beauty of panies are using American-made components for bras. prices, and investing in technology and efficiency proce- design in the forefront of the retailer.” Rich Murray, president of Wacoal America, the U.S. dures are top priorities.” subsidiary of apparel giant Wacoal Japan, said: “With the He noted the company has invested more than new China quotas being imposed for 2004, many compa- $100,000 this year in updated softwear and plans to con- nies, including ourselves, make sourcing and manufactur- tinue investing in 2004. MEASURING THE MARKET ing decisions almost a year in advance, whether it would Lee said investment in product development, particu- Total intimate apparel business in the U.S. for be changing from the Caribbean to domestic, or Mexico to larly new proprietary fabrics such as an ultrasoft Holly- the 12 months ended October 2003. Asia. Those guys are in motion for a long period of time. wood velour, as well as a successful luxe business with Total Volume Dollars: $12.2 billion, up 4.3 percent. “But if you are in the process of taking a substantial European labels Princesse Tam Tam and Argentovivo, and portion of manufacturing to China, and all of a sudden it a full lifestyle collection by Bill Blass sleepwear and at- Total Volume Units: 1.7 billion, up 6 percent. changes to include an additional 7.5 percent over the homewear, has beefed up the firm’s bottom line. Bra sales up 1.5 percent, totaling $4.36 billion. previous year, you’re at the point of no return. That David Komar, senior vice president of marketing at Bra units up 3.5 percent, totaling $395 million. would be a significant problem.” Charles Komar & Sons, a sleepwear specialist, said, “The Panty sales up 7.3 percent, totaling $2.63 billion. Rene Rofe, chief executive officer of International lack of at-once inventory is the biggest issue for us. We Panty units up 5.9 percent, totaling $894 million. Intimates, a maker of fashion bras and daywear, said, can ship immediately, sales are trending ahead of plan Daywear sales up 27.1 percent, totaling $686 million. “We are actually very perplexed by Bush’s decision to and then we don’t have enough stock to service them. impose safeguards on bras, mainly because there are no Stores don’t want to place too much money and they think Daywear units up 27.5 percent, totaling $72 million. longer bra manufacturers in the U.S. Who do they want they can place deals at the last minute.” Sleepwear sales up 6.4 percent, totaling $3.75 billion. to protect? I suspect it’s complaints from other bra man- Charles Komar, ceo, added, “Overall sales are up Sleepwear units up 13.2 percent, totaling $261 million. ufacturing countries like Sri Lanka and Thailand who approximately 20 percent due to an increased share of Thermal sales up 55.3 percent, totaling $237 million. stand to lose the most to China.” our Aria, Liz Claiborne, Eileen West and the new launch Thermal units up 64.9 percent, totaling $26 million. According to IBERC, a Washington-based quota serv- of Lucky Brand [sleepwear and at-homewear]. We’ll be Shapewear sales down 25.6 percent, totaling $564 million. ice agency, imports of bras from all countries to the U.S. going into Lucky Brand daywear in January.” totaled about 40 million dozen in 2002. Total bra imports Regarding strategies that have improved the bottom Shapewear units down 28.2 percent, totaling $59 million. from China to the U.S. represent 35 percent of domestic line at Movie Star Inc., Howard Radziminsky, senior vice SOURCE: NPD FASHIONWORLD WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 1, 2003 17 L&T Flagship Houses Nars Counter Fashion Scoops NEW YORK — Nars has launched its first separate Maybelline/Garnier. Vitali succeeds Karen Bush, counter in the U.S. at Lord & Taylor’s Fifth who has been promoted to senior vice president, MORE HUMAN THAN HUMAN: What is CAVALLI IN NY?: Maybe hosting the Avenue flagship here. The counter claims 154 marketing for Maybelline International. it about Nicole Kidman that wins her Columbus Day parade has given square feet of prime real estate at the front of the Vitali reports to Karen Fondu, general manager of Oscars and a spot on Tom Ford’s Roberto Cavalli a taste for the Big store leading into the beauty department, which is Maybelline/Garnier, while Bush reports to Emma arm? Beauty? Talent? Her utter lack Apple. A next to the Chanel counter. Walmsley, general manager of Maybelline International. of empathy? The latter caught Lars spokeswoman for “Corporately Nars is and will continue to be a As reported, Maybelline is ushering in a name von Trier’s eye. That quality led the the designer said very important part of our business going forward,” change next year with Maybelline New York, the ban- Danish director/provocateur to cast that he’s mulling said Barbara Zinn Moore, senior vice president of ner the brand has been using in global markets. Along her in his latest deconstruction of the idea of showing cosmetics and fragrances for Lord & Taylor. “It’s a with that there will be a new store fixture. Maybelline Hollywood clichés, this year’s next season’s Just modern, upscale brand that brings a lot of excite- had previously updated its in-store display in 1999. Cannes Film Festival hit, “Dogville.” Cavalli collection in ment to all of our stores as well as significant sales. — Laura Klepacki In the next issue of Black Book, he New York and I am particularly proud that our Fifth Avenue door tells fellow director Paul Thomas hosting a massive has the first Nars installation in the U.S. Our busi- Anderson, “I liked Nicole very much, after-party and art ness has been terrific and I look forward to tremen- Kao Sales Rise, Profits Drop or anyway, I liked her character, exhibition, but a dous growth with the brand next year.” TOKYO — At Kao, total sales increased 2.8 per- Grace, very much, because she’s a decision has yet to Industry sources estimate that the Nars instal- cent to $4.06 billion dollars, or 446.99 billion yen, little more aggressive, a little more be made even lation could generate between $150,000 and while net profits dropped 4 percent to $290.4 mil- human than the other characters though the clock’s $200,000 in its first year. lion, or 31.94 billion yen, and operating profits I’ve worked with.” ticking — and it’s Joyce Avalon, vice president of sales and market- inched down 1.6 percent to $550.7 million, or 60.58 “Wait,” Anderson asks, “is that pretty safe to The Roberto ing for Nars, noted that the brand billion yen, on a consolidated because she’s a more human assume that a has several installations in the basis during the first six months character or a more human actor?” Cavalli dress Cavalli fete will U.K. and in Paris but that this was ended Sept. 30. After a long pause, von Trier that Nancy require quite a bit the first opportunity in the U.S. BEAUTY BEAT “Overseas sales increased 9.3 replies, “It’s because she’s a more Lemeninger of preparation. “It’s definitely the direction we’d like to take the percent, supported by the benefit from acquisi- human character and a less human will wear in Cavalli is even counter because it gives us more space for makeup tions,” said Kao in a statement. Total sales in North actress…” Come again? “I like the “Never Gonna taking on the applications and works better than the typical cos- America increased 3.1 percent to $366.4 million, or inhuman quality of Nicole…I know Dance.” Broadway scene. metics counter. So much of our business is done 40.3 billion yen, while sales in Europe rose 28.4 it sounds negative, but it’s not He'll be dressing through doing actual makeup and it’s designed in a percent to $376.4 million, or 41.4 billion yen. really meant to be.” Nancy Lemeninger, the female way that you can sit people down and work.” In the personal care division in North America lead in “Never Gonna Dance” The brand is carried in 10 other Lord & Taylor lo- and Europe, “conditions remained severe,” said Kao. MADE IN MANHATTAN: Louis Vuitton is that opens on Broadway Dec. 4, cations with additional doors scheduled to open in “Sales of existing brands declined at both the Andrew quickly getting into a New York state for the opening party at the the spring. A spokeswoman for Lord & Taylor noted Jergens Co. of the U.S. and KPSS-Kao Professional of mind. Gearing up for the Feb. 10 Marriott Marquis Hotel. She'll be that the store will hold frequent in-store events to in- Salon Services GmbH. On the other hand, the John opening of the biggest Vuitton store wearing Cavalli's deep V-neck crease customer awareness for the brand. To get Frieda premium hair care business acquired by the in the world at Fifth Avenue and 57th flowing green and white gown.The ready for the holiday season, makeup artistry events Andrew Jergens Co. in September 2002 has achieved Street, the French luxury brand show is based on the 1936 Fred are slated for the New York, Scarsdale, N.Y., and growth significantly higher than initial projections.” unveiled in Paris last week a few of Astaire-Ginger Rogers movie Stamford, Conn., stores on Dec. 5-6. Kao’s prestige cosmetics sales increased 0.6 percent, the exclusive products slated to “Swing Time.” —Kristin Finn to $348.2 million, or 38.3 billion yen. debut there. These include a new For the fiscal year ending March 31, 2004, the permanent travel line, dubbed Giant SING A SONG: Who knew that Kathy group projects net profits of $581.8 million, or 64 Damier after its large-scale Bronstein, former head of Wet Seal New Maybelline Exec billion yen, operating profits of $1.08 billion, or checkerboard-patterned canvas. Inc., had a little Frank Sinatra in NEW YORK — Cheryl Vitali, formerly an executive 119 billion yen, and net sales of $8.18 billion, or Made of the same durable fiber her? Talking about her vice president of marketing at Revlon, has been 900 billion yen. commonly found in mountain- unceremonious ouster in February, named senior vice president of marketing at — Koji Hirano climbing ropes, the rugged, casual Bronstein belted out the lyrics to collection spans small shoulder bags “My Way” to an applauding crowd up to big rolling suitcases. In a of 180 at the recent Textile decidedly more girlie vein is a charm Association of Los Angeles’ 47th bracelet sprouting a single motif: a Annual Scholarship Awards Mining Company to Buy Winston Big Apple, of course. It comes in red- Luncheon. In her speech to the tinted gold, with a single green-tinted students — 21 of whom earned NEW YORK — Harry Winston through which to sell its dia- with the family continued and leaf, and retails for about $2,600. scholarships totaling more than seems to have found a buyer at last. monds, while Winston will get the staff found her to be difficult, For those looking for more bling-bling, $10,000 — she described the In a brief interview with capital to grow. even going so far as to compare there are bejeweled versions that passion and resiliency found in the WWD, Ronald Winston con- Founded in 1932, Harry Win- her personal spending habits start at about $25,000. apparel industry. “You can stretch firmed the impending sale of his ston has been one of the leading with Imelda Marcos in one recent us so thin like a rubber band, but family’s company, saying, “It’s a names among the red carpet set. item on Page Six. DOODLING DO-GOODERS: Yves Saint if you let go, we’ll bounce back,” great opportunity.” Its creations, worn by the likes of Business trends for the sector Laurent, Jean Paul Gaultier, John she said. According to sources familiar J.Lo, are known for their opulent have not been particularly promis- Galliano and Christian Lacroix have For now, Bronstein is consulting with the sale, Winston has but classic diamond bracelets, ing. While Hambrecht said last all decided to reach out and touch with Guess Inc. and others, while reached a nonbinding agreement necklaces, and earrings. month that the company’s sales someone. In an attempt to spread exploring opportunities. She thinks in principal with Toronto-based But recently, there has been were up 50 percent since she came the love, more than 30 designers the junior world needs a “good kick in mining company Aber Diamond as much gossip surrounding the on board, her public competitors have agreed to sketch heart motifs the pants” to shift gears away from Corp. Ronald Winston will re- company as its clientele. have been reeling from the world- that French mobile phone users “overplayed” casual looks. Any main as chairman and his compa- When founder Harry Winston wide economic downturn. For ex- can download onto their screens to internal satisfaction from Wet Seal’s ny will likely remain private, de- died in 1978, he left his business to ample, two weeks ago, Compagnie raise funds for a French AIDS continued sales losses? “I hate to see spite its expected acquisition by his two sons, Bruce and Ronald. Financiere Richemont SA — the charity. The drawings, available the consumer fall out of love with Wet a public company, the sources They feuded over its direction. In firm which owns Cartier and Van until Jan. 31, can be downloaded Seal,” she lamented. “I just wish said. The move occurred mainly 2000, Ronald joined forces with Cleef & Arpels — reported that net for about $3. them the best.” because Fenway, the private eq- Fenway and bought out his brother. income had dropped 49 percent in uity firm that invested a reported But soon after the partnership the third quarter. Winston is also $55 million in Winston in 2000, began, Fenway hired Patricia facing growing competition from was looking to sell its majority Hambrecht, the ambitious former such companies as Graff and stake. Several luxury goods con- president of Christie’s auction Asprey, which opened its New Charron Nets $2M in Stock Options glomerates were said to have house, as Winston’s new president. York flagship directly across the looked at Winston in the past, but She wanted to update the brand’s street from Winston late last week. NEW YORK — Paul Charron, 1.1 million shares of Claiborne passed on buying it. If the acqui- ads, offer more affordable jewels, Hambrecht’s contract, which was chairman and chief executive stock, representing 1.02 percent sition goes through as planned, and start a fragrance, the last of up at the end of December, report- officer of Liz Claiborne Inc., net- of its common shares. That Aber will gain a retail channel which did not pan out. Clashes edly is not being renewed. ted more than $2 million from amount included nearly 800,000 stock options last week. shares issuable upon the exer- According to a Form 4 filed with cise of exercisable options. the Securities and Exchange The proxy also noted that Commission last Wednesday, Charron’s current contract with Nordstrom Family Group to Sell Shares Charron acquired 120,000 Claiborne Claiborne expires next April 30 shares at $17.91, for a total cost of but carries automatic one-year NEW YORK — Upscale department ings in order to diversify its fi- “As we’ve stated before, we want about $2.1 million, through the exer- renewals. After serving at VF store operator Nordstrom Inc. said nancial assets, the Seattle-based to be clear that this action by the cise of options last Tuesday. The Corp., Charron joined Claib- a Nordstrom family shareholder company said in a statement. partnership is an independent deci- same number of shares were sold orne as vice chairman and group will register with the Security The action by the group is an sion driven simply by the partner- on that day for $34.85 each, generat- chief operating officer in 1994 and Exchange Commission to sell independent decision. ship’s desire to diversify its financial ing proceeds of $4.2 million. and became president and ceo up to 5.4 million shares of John Nordstrom, a director, and assets,” Bruce Nordstrom, chair- Charron’s direct holdings in in 1995, relinquishing the pres- Nordstrom common stock. James Nordstrom Jr., corporate man of Nordstrom, said in a state- Claiborne totaled 325,886 shares idency in 1996 when he was Elmer and Katharine Nord- merchandise manager of children’s ment. “The Nordstrom Inc. manage- following the transactions, more named chairman. strom Family Interest LP owns shoes, are the only members of the ment team is completely committed than half of them — 177,434 — in Claiborne shares closed up 8.2 million shares, or 6 percent partnership who are active in the to the future success of Nordstrom. restricted stock. 31 cents, or 0.9 percent, to close of Nordstrom’s outstanding company’s operations. The group We are encouraged by the progress In the firm’s definitive proxy, at $35.17 in New York Stock shares, and is proposing to sell has an additional 20 members of we continue to make and by the pos- issued last March, Charron was Exchange trading Wednesday. an additional portion of its hold- the extended Nordstrom family. itive response from our customers.” listed as the beneficial owner of — Arnold J. Karr 18 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 1, 2003

Financial Weekly Stock Index 52-Week Sales Amt Strong Quarter for Ross, High Low P/E (00’s) Last Change Broadline Retailers 14.59 3.39 Bon-Ton Stores 17.9 5673 13.43 -0.27 20.17 12.32 Dillard’s 46.8 28571 16.85 1.28 As Stein Mart Loss Grows 50.60 23.51 Federated 16.4 59377 49.09 0.14 4.00 0.94 Gottschalks - 566 3.86 0.20 By Arnold J. Karr 25.55 15.57 J.C. Penney 24.2 75772 24.88 0.43 30.82 17.81 May Dept. Stores 17.1 63769 29.65 0.02 NEW YORK — A healthy back-to- 6.30 1.48 Retail Ventures - 7777 5.40 -0.05 school season helped lift Ross Stores Inc. to double-digit in- 15.75 6.66 Saks 31.4 25701 15.38 0.18 creases in sales and earnings in 55.89 18.25 Sears 11.4 86846 55.16 0.31 the third quarter. 41.80 25.60 Target 20.7 113205 38.72 0.97 Elsewhere in the world of 60.20 46.25 Wal-Mart 27.8 284298 55.64 0.83 mass retailing, ShopKo generat- ed a 9.9 percent increase in net Softline Retailers income despite a sales retreat, 39.89 17.05 Ann Taylor 20.6 26244 39.74 2.22 and Stein Mart’s losses bal- looned as it paid the price for a 5.97 0.70 Bluefly - 22283 4.78 -0.07 change in its promotional strate- 22.50 15.40 Burlington Coat 14.7 1798 21.10 0.14 gy with a deeper loss. 6.85 2.70 Charming Shoppes 20.1 26616 6.23 0.15 During the three months 39.20 16.75 Chico’s FAS 41.3 25300 38.38 1.27 ended Nov. 1, Ross, the Newark, 15.23 12.20 Dress Barn 57.8 1563 14.45 0.15 Calif.-based off-pricer enjoyed a 22.25 9.28 Foot Locker 17.5 66895 22.10 1.17 12 percent increase in net in- come to $50.5 million, or 65 cents 22.01 12.01 Gap 20.5 233999 21.50 0.66 Ross Stores hopes to repeat its double-digit profit and sales growth in the a diluted share, from $45.1 mil- all-important fourth quarter. Here, holiday merchandise from its Web site. 71.70 46.18 Kohl’s 26.1 130129 48.32 -0.56 lion, or 57 cents, in the year-ago 18.50 10.88 Limited Brands 17.2 70999 17.92 0.18 quarter. The third-quarter EPS As one might expect from a and 12 next year. 54.47 25.90 Neiman Marcus Group 20.7 5608 53.90 1.13 mark matched consensus esti- quarter when, as reported, Wal- Overall, for the first nine 35.50 15.00 Nordstrom 23.5 57004 34.50 -0.42 mates as well as company guid- Mart Stores missed Wall Street months of the fiscal year, Stein 24.56 10.74 Pacific Sunwear 25.1 41436 22.82 1.29 ance furnished on Nov. 6 when consensus estimates by 1 cent, Mart recorded a net loss of $11.7 Ross reported October sales. other mass merchants were million, or 28 cents, versus last 55.29 32.58 Ross Stores 19.7 21437 54.78 1.35 Revenues rose slightly more faced with promotional and ex- year’s profits of $10.3 million, or 8.40 6.02 Syms - 115 6.94 0.01 than earnings, gaining 12.3 per- pense pressures that took a toll 25 cents. Net sales for the period 38.65 22.00 Talbots 16.7 8857 32.77 0.28 cent to $976.9 million from on the bottom line. declined 5 percent to $950 mil- 23.70 15.54 TJX 20.4 102673 22.59 0.47 $870.2 million. Comparable- Among the discounters and off- lion from $1 billion a year ago as store sales rose 2 percent during pricers reporting results recently: comps were down 7 percent. Vendors the quarter. 64.40 47.08 Alberto Culver 22.0 5877 61.07 0.27 “Business benefited from strong same-store sales gains in Our third quarter was really a trip 69.75 48.93 Avon 27.2 24516 68.50 1.99 our home departments and the “ 22.61 13.65 Cherokee 13.6 474 22.45 0.88 back-to-school categories of jun- through uncharted waters. 39.92 14.52 Coach 43.8 64142 39.84 3.60 iors, shoes and accessories,” ” 59.39 31.55 Columbia Sportswear 20.2 5876 59.28 2.01 commented Michael Balmuth, — Michael Fisher, Stein Mart 29.29 16.29 Del Laboratories 12.3 354 24.15 0.72 vice chairman and chief execu- 38.75 25.40 Estée Lauder 28.8 16817 38.00 0.60 tive officer, in a statement. “In STEIN MART SHOPKO STORES addition, continued effective con- Slumping net and compara- Third-quarter profits rose at 29.82 15.95 Fossil 21.6 8388 29.14 0.72 trol of both inventories and ex- ble-store sales and store closing ShopKo Stores Inc. despite de- 12.00 4.62 G-III 17.1 156 10.45 -0.05 penses contributed to the stable costs forced Stein Mart Inc. to a clines in overall and same-store 99.80 83.91 Gucci 30.6 2512 84.96 0.16 operating margins and healthy wider third-quarter loss. sales. 15.60 3.30 Guess - 5221 14.20 1.15 earnings growth for the period.” For the three months ended For the 13 weeks ended Nov. 37.65 25.61 Jones Apparel 13.6 27642 34.50 0.57 Balmuth said Ross is holding Nov. 1, the Jacksonville, Fla.- 1, the Green Bay, Wis.-based dis- 39.79 22.65 Kellwood 29.9 12654 38.24 0.04 to its forecast of a same-store based off-price retail chain re- counter saw earnings rise 9.9 sales increase of 3 to 4 percent ported a net loss of $10.4 million, percent to $964,000, or 3 cents a 31.40 18.55 Kenneth Cole 18.9 2571 29.90 1.63 during the fourth quarter, which or 25 cents a diluted share. That diluted share, from $877,000, 38.90 26.23 Liz Claiborne 14.1 27009 35.01 0.78 should translate to earnings per compares with last year’s nar- also 3 cents, last year. 7.00 3.40 Mossimo 8.3 782 4.95 0.03 share of between 85 and 88 cents. rower loss of $3.8 million, or 9 Sales for the period slid 1.4 27.63 17.30 Movado 15.9 528 27.19 0.38 He added that the firm re- cents. Excluding the impact of percent to $758.5 million from 71.65 22.01 Oxford 23.0 1697 68.28 3.13 mains “on track” with its plan to store closings during the quarter, $769.6 million last year. Compar- 17.70 11.16 Phillips-Van Heusen 16.6 5039 17.60 0.96 open the first 10 DD’s Discount Stein Mart would have reported able-store sales fell 1.3 percent. 31.52 19.30 Polo Ralph Lauren 15.8 6677 29.68 0.78 stores during the second half of a net loss of 11 cents a share. An $89.4 million reduction in fiscal 2004. The stores will be on Net sales for the period debt helped boost profitability. 19.55 12.10 Quiksilver 17.6 26229 17.98 0.86 the West Coast and instrumental dropped 5.1 percent to $315.9 Sales in the company’s core 4.06 2.05 Revlon - 4370 2.40 -0.21 in producing estimated store unit million from $332.8 million a ShopKo segment slid 2.7 percent 21.15 14.94 Russell Corp. 14.2 4151 18.39 0.26 growth of 14 percent in 2004. year ago, and comparable-store to $568.5 million from $584.1 4.76 2.45 Tarrant Apparel - 383 4.00 0.11 Net income for the nine sales receded 5.8 percent. million last year, and comps 16.60 5.61 Tommy Hilfiger 8.0 11761 13.74 0.55 months rose 8.4 percent to $154.4 “Our third quarter was really slumped by the same percent- 9.30 3.78 Tropical Sportswear - 1218 4.19 -0.05 million, or $1.99 a diluted share, a trip through uncharted wa- age. Sam Duncan, president and from $142.4 million, or $1.78, in ters,” said chief executive officer chief executive officer, said dur- 44.08 32.62 VF Corp. 12.3 11733 41.27 0.51 the 2002 period. Sales just missed Michael Fisher on a conference ing the company conference 18.23 8.80 Warnaco - 15067 15.40 1.49 the double-digit increase level, call with analysts. “For starters, call, “Unseasonably warm ascending 9.9 percent to $2.82 bil- we closed eight stores in the weather impacted sales, partic- Textiles lion from $2.57 billion. Comps span of one week in September. ularly in seasonable apparel 5.17 1.35 Delta Woodside - 191 1.77 0.12 were flat. Those stores were half of the categories such as outerwear 0.07 0.01 Galey & Lord - 125 0.01 0.00 Ross is the nation’s second group we announced in May we and sweaters.” largest apparel off-pricer, behind would close this year for lack of At Pamida, sales rose 2.4 per- 12.30 2.25 Guilford Mills - 52 12.00 0.00 The TJX Cos. It operates 573 profitability. We also eliminated cent to $190 million and were up 7.37 4.25 Unifi - 7104 5.13 0.26 units, 63 more than one year ago. full-price coupons and we knew 3.3 percent on a comp basis. it would be difficult as we an- For the 39-week period earn- niversaried against last year’s ings came in at $7.6 million, or WWDStock Market Index for the Week Ending November 28 Biggest Percentage Changes comparable-store sales.” 26 cents, against a loss of $177.5 For Week Ending November 28 Fisher said fourth-quarter million, or $6.07 a diluted share, Gainers Close Change sales will continue to suffer dis- last year. Excluding the effect of Composite: 117.27 Broadline Stores: 115.06 Softline Stores: 124.24 Warnaco 15.40 10.71 advantageous comparisons with an accounting change, earnings Coach 39.84 9.93 last year when Stein Mart issued in last year’s quarter would Guess 14.20 8.81 “almost daily coupons” in have been $8.6 million. Dillard’s 16.85 8.22 November and December. How- Sales for the period fell 2.2 1.83 1.75 2.07 Delta Woodside 1.77 7.27 ever, he added that an encourag- percent to $2.23 billion from Losers Close Change ing response to the firm’s mer- $2.28 billion last year. Vendors: 118.14 Textiles: 94.31 Galey & Lord 0.01 -40.00 chandise assortment and first na- ShopKo operates 361 units, in- Index base of 100 is Revlon 2.40 -8.05 tional TV campaign should lead cluding 220 Pamida stores, in 23 keyed to closing prices Bon-Ton Stores 13.43 -1.97 to improvements in January. Western and Midwestern states. of Dec. 31, 2002. Bluefly 4.78 -1.42 Stein Mart expects to end the —With contributions from 1.92 3.90 Nordstrom 34.50 -1.20 current fiscal year with 261 Dan Burrows units and to open between 10 and Ross Tucker

20 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 1, 2003

ended Sept. 30 more than doubled to $23.8 million, or 20.3 million euros, from $10.3 million, or 8.8 million euros, the year before. Dollar figures are converted from LV Backing ’07 America’s Cup EUROPE WATCH euros at current exchange. Sales grew 38.5 percent to $328.29 million, or 279.8 million euros, from $236.9 By John Zaracostas million, or 201.9 million euros. The company’s apparel BLUE CHRISTMAS: There will be fewer gifts under sales advanced by 32.7 percent through organic growth GENEVA — Louis Vuitton, already connected with sailing’s most European Christmas trees this year, according to a study as well as the consolidation of recently acquired German prestigious event, upped the ante last week by saying it would by the Deloitte & Touche consulting firm in Paris. group Rene Lezard Mode GmbH. Revenue from the become principal sponsor of the next America’s Cup, to be held Holiday spending is expected to be weakest in France, leather goods division rose 56.5 percent, boosted by the in Valencia, Spain, in 2007. where those polled said they would spend 31 percent recent acquisition of Biasia Francesco SpA. Burani has “How happy I am,” an ebullient Yves Carcelle, president and less on presents this year than last year. In Germany and recently focused on developing markets like Eastern chief executive of Vuitton, a division of LVMH Moët Louis Ireland, consumers are expected to spend 24 percent Europe and Russia, which together generate more than Vuitton, said in an interview here after announcing the deal at a less, while in Belgium, a 16 percent decline is expected. 13 percent of the group’s revenue. — Amanda Kaiser news conference. “We have been investing 20 years of time, pas- The average European household is expected to spend sion and energy to make the cup a global event. To have it come $461, or 394 euros, for holiday gifts this year, against IN THE BAG: Calzaturificio Mafra Srl, controlled by Mariella back to Europe is really exciting. $522, or 446 euros, last year. The French said they Burani Fashion Group and the LVMH investment fund L “This time we will be more involved than before, because would allocate $369, or 315 euros, against $545, or Capital, acquired footwear firm Andrea Pfister for $1.8 there will be the Louis Vuitton Cup as usual for the challenger 466 euros, last year. In Ireland, traditionally home of million (converted from 1.5 million euros at current and preliminary series that will carry the name of Louis Vuitton, Europe’s most generous gift-givers, $1,247, or 1,066 exchange) from financially troubled Fin.part. Pfister, known and we’ll also be involved in the America’s Cup itself.” euros, on average will be spent for Christmas per for his couture-like shoe designs, had sold his brand to the Besides being the principal partner, Vuitton watches will be- household. Deloitte's study, conducted via Internet, group Fin.part in January 2000. “I’m very happy now and come the official timekeeper of the race, which last year gener- solicited opinions from 4,788 people. hard at work,” said an upbeat Pfister in a ated 3,000 hours of television coverage and 45,000 articles in in- Dollar figures are converted from euros phone interview. Pfister said he’d also be ternational publications. at current exchange. — Robert Murphy keen to design shoes for the other Burani Yachting experts predict the next America’s Cup will become group brands, which include Mila Schön, even more of a global event. “It’s the way of the future,” said LIGHT BRIGHT: Alberta Ferretti is the Braccialini, Baldinini and Francesco renowned skipper Chris Dickson, who has taken part in newest addition to the hot Paris Rue Biasia. The group is listed on the Milan America’s Cups for New Zealand, Japan and the U.S. Saint-Honoré shopping strip, where stock exchange. Chief executive Giovanni An estimated audience of 2.8 billion watched the America’s stores from Helmut Lang and Escada Burani said he plans to expand the Pfister Cup staged in Auckland, New Zealand, last March. have recently bowed. The 1,700- label into handbags. On the retail front, The 32nd America’s Cup is expected to generate at least $1.5 square-foot, two-level unit is the Italian the Pfister boutique on Milan’s tony Via billion for Valencia and the Spanish economy, and have a multi- house's first stand-alone store in Montenapoleone will be replaced by a plier effect in the sales of goods and services of sponsors. France. It features Ferretti's signature Sebastian store, produced by Mafra, next The announcement of the winning city, out of an initial field line on the ground level, while the spring, when Burani also plans to open a of about 60, was made last Wednesday at the lakeside President secondary Philosophy line hangs on the Francesco Biasia boutique on the same Wilson hotel in an auditorium packed with yachting celebrities, second floor. Minimalist and bright, the street.— Luisa Zargani well-heeled sponsors and a fair number of Geneva’s discreet pri- boutique was designed by David Ling vate bankers. with limestone floors and cream walls. RACING AHEAD: French fast-fashion Ernesto Bertarelli, the Swiss billionaire industrialist who Each step in the curving staircase is lit Alberta Ferretti’s Paris shop. group Vivarte is already making headed the Swiss Alinghi team, which won the cup from New from below; the first floor resembles a mini-theater, with ambitious resolutions for the New Year. Notwithstanding Zealand last March, said, “It was very difficult to choose one of a sunk-in center and illuminated benches used to the anticipated sale of the group to outside investors, the four very good cities.” merchandise knitwear and accessories. Ferretti operates Vivarte said it plans to invest $118.8 million, or 100 But he added: “I hope to sail in each of the four cities in the 10 other shops around the world, including Tokyo, million euros, in store openings in 2004, stepping the pre-regattas.” He said the Alinghi team was “highly motivated London, Milan and New York. pace up to 120 store openings a year compared with 46 and quite keen to retain the America’s Cup.” Meanwhile, on the other side of town, Shanghai Tang stores in fiscal 2002/2003. The Vivarte group, which Carcelle said it was too soon to say what products the group has arrived. Its 4,000-square-foot, two-level store, at 76 includes Andre, La Halle, Caroll, Parti-Prix and Kookai had in mind for the Cup series. For the last qualifier races, rue Bonaparte in the upscale Saint Germain neighborhood, chains, reported a 10.4 percent increase in net profits to Vuitton developed a range of sportswear, accessories and a limit- is its first in the City of Light. Besides the usual panoply of $89.7 million, or 75.5 million euros, from $81.3 million, ed-edition watch. Chinese-themed clothing for men, women and children, or 68.4 million euros, in the year-earlier period. Dollar “I’m going to fly back to Paris and work with my team for a the store also sells home items. There is a tea room, and figures are converted from euros at current exchange. For few days,” he said. “There will be, as usual, a translation of this clients wishing to organize a trip to China may book a the fiscal year ended Aug. 31, Vivarte’s annual sales big event into Louis Vuitton Cup or America’s Cup products. We ticket at the on-site travel agent. — R.M. slowed 2.2 percent to $2.28 billion from $2.33 billion signed this morning and we will now think how we will use that the previous year.— Emilie Marsh in our marketing strategy.” SINGH’S CHRISTMAS BREAK: Tom Singh, founder of the Carcelle declined to say how much was earmarked for mar- U.K. high street retail chain New Look, will not be A POOR SPORT: England’s win at the Rugby World Cup keting around the race, but pointed out: “The event is defi- upping his offer for the company until the New Year. last month spelled a loss for retail sales. nitely different from the last time because there will be series Sources said Singh was less than impressed with the In November, sales slumped 10 percent compared in 2004, 2005, 2006 and the LV Cup in 2007 and the America’s retailer’s six-month figures, and wants to see how with the same period last year, according to the retail cup in 2007, so we have to organize ourselves to this long peri- Christmas trading goes. As reported, Singh, whose monitor FootFall. The organization, which follows 120 od of time.” The 2004 races also coincide with the brand’s family already owns 28 percent of the firm, increased shopping centers across the U.K., blamed the drop on 150th anniversary. his offer in October to $5.91, or 3.48 pounds, valuing increased TV viewing during Saturday's final match against Carcelle and the Swiss organizers declined to reveal how the company at about $1.19 billion. Australia and the celebrations that followed. “The fact that much LVMH bid to be picked as the principal sponsor. Although New Look’s sales increased 6.2 percent to England won such a monumental game, gave all those Carcelle noted Vuitton has stores in each of the four cities $568 million, or 334.5 million pounds, for the 26 watching a reason to celebrate, which in itself took many that bid for the cup: Valencia; Marseille, France; Lisbon, and weeks to Sept. 27, U.K. like-for-like sales plummeted away from shops,” the company said in a statement. Naples. “Spain is a high potential country for us,” he added. 3.6 percent, following an 8.7 percent rise in the same Meanwhile, retail traffic index figures produced by SPSL, Worldwide, the group has about 318 stores, of which about a period last year. Dollar figures have been converted from which monitors customer traffic and behavior patterns in third are located in Europe. the pound at current exchange. New Look is the U.K.’s Europe, were just as grim. The company expects the America’s premier yachting personality, skipper Dennis third-largest women’s wear retailer and has more than overall fall in November to be 1.7 percent from last year, Conner, told reporters sailing is very popular in Europe, but also 700 stores in the U.K. and France. The latest flagship with a small revival expected for December. “The start of noted the cup has become “a passion for wealthy individuals.” opened on Oxford Street in late August. — Ellen Burney November has been quieter than originally anticipated,” He said he’d like to take part in the next cup. “If someone said Tim Denison, a director at SPSL. He said reasons gives me $200 million, I’ll be there,” he said. GOING UP: Italy’s Mariella Burani fashion group lifted its might include a falloff in consumer confidence after a Other yachting experts, however, reckon about $50 million is nine-month profit and sales figures by diversifying into recent interest rate rise and a wait-and-see attitude among required to take part. There are already some 14 challengers new products and markets. Pretax profit for the period Christmas shoppers. — Nina Jones lined up.

the WTO — has been caught in a debate over whether the $57 billion in tax breaks benefiting multinational companies should Armani to Keynote IHT Parley ATMI Pushes Repeal Effort now be channeled to U.S. manufacturers as tax benefits or WASHINGTON — A congressional effort to repeal a U.S. export shared with corporations with offshore operations. NEW YORK — Giorgio Armani will deliver the open- subsidy and stave off retaliatory tariffs from the European The legislation being backed by the ATMI would do both, while ing address at the International Herald Tribune’s Union starting Jan. 1 has gained a key backer: the American making other tax law changes, for a total cost of $120 billion in third annual fashion and luxury conference titled Textile Manufacturers Institute. tax breaks over 10 years. The measure is sponsored by House “Fashion 2003: Luxury in a Cool Climate” Dec. 4 at But additional support from ATMI might not be enough to Ways and Means chairman Bill Thomas (R., Calif.) and is compet- the Four Seasons Hotel George V in Paris. push repeal legislation through Congress in time to appease the ing with another House and a Senate measure. Completing action Chaired by Suzy Menkes, IHT’s fashion editor, the Europeans. Lawmakers are rushing to adjourn for the year and by the EU’s end-of-year deadline appears problematic. two-day conference will feature business leaders and repealing this legislation is not at the top of their agenda. In supporting the Thomas bill, the ATMI is becoming an unlikely designers discussing the challenges of operating in The EU has been given the OK by the World Trade ally with apparel importers backing the measure. Garnering backing today’s luxury goods marketplace. Among the topics Organization to begin levying 5 percent tariffs on $4 billion worth from the textile sector is considered important because manufactur- are “Building Brand Value in the Future,” “Timeless of U.S. goods, starting Jan. 1. If a remedy isn’t in place by ers, facing a major decline, are considered a key constituency for Luxury” and “Family Values Versus Corporate Clout.” March, the tariffs would then gradually increase to 17 percent. lawmakers to please. Speakers will include Santo Versace, president The European Commission could levy up to 100 percent tariffs. In a letter to Thomas, Jim Chesnutt, ATMI chairman and presi- and co-chief executive of Versace SpA; Sidney American products affected would include $100 million in dent, who is also chief executive officer of National Spinning Co., Toledano, president of Christian Dior Couture and apparel, $103 million worth of leather handbags and luggage, said the legislation’s tax rate reductions for domestic producers head of strategy at Fendi; Rosita Missoni, designer, $16 million in cosmetics, $19 million of footwear and are among provisions that would benefit mills. Chesnutt also said Missoni SpA; Carla Fendi, president and head of $500,000 in man-made filaments and cotton. mills are concerned about the retaliatory tariffs. communications for Fendi Group, and Ferruccio Repeal of the export subsidy — deemed anticompetitive by — Joanna Ramey Ferragamo, ceo of Salvatore Ferragamo Italia SpA. with the last word. The Authority on Retail and Style 22 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 1, 2003

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Accessory or • Product Categories jewelry wholesale background preferable. • Level of Retail Distribution Designer/Surface This high visibility position offers • Wish List of Name Brands Degree in Surface Design w/ min 2 growth opportunity within our organiza- years home textiles experience. Both tion plus a competitive salary and full Fax (212) 861-7918 hand + computer rendering in PC benefits package. Qualified candidates Photoshop, Illustrator; develop concepts should fax or mail your resumes to: to first samples + create presentation Human Resources boards. Able to muti-task along moving FAX: (718) 349-4424 deadlines. Great studio environment. Email: [email protected] JACMEL Jewelry 30-00 47th Ave., LIC, NY 11101 Equal Opportunity Employer M/F Careers in Apparel Thru Designer to $100K. Current exp in updated con- APPAREL STAFFING, LTD. temporary missy dresses + 2 piece dressing. Asstnt. Controller-Royalties Exp...... $OPEN Print driven.Georgettes, etc. Strong knowledge Knitting Production Mgr to $50K. current V.P. Product Development-MJR Catalog..$OPEN of fit Product devel. India co background help- ep. managiing knitters on Stoll CMS Dsgnr-Junior C.N.S. Knits...... $OPEN ful not nec. Siimilar fashion vision to Sue machines. Train/supervise 8. Co. will relo Admin. Assistant Dsgnr-Contemporary-Denim Exp...... $BOE Wong, Johnny Was, VonFursternerg, etc. you to West Coast. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Shearling & fur importer seeks highly Dsgnr-Girls 7-16 Knit Tops...... $70K+ Call: 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy motivated, detail oriented individual Asstnt. Dsgnr-Sptswr-Westchester loc...... $35K Marketing with computer & organizational skills, Asstnt. Dsgnr-Intimate Apparel...... $35K DESIGNER to $100K DESIGNER to assist Sales Mgr. E-mail resume/salary CAD Dsgnr-NED graphics Exp only...... $To 50K Jr. cut/sewn knits. Photoshop/Illustrator VISUAL MERCHANDISER FREELANCE - FULL TIME requirements: [email protected] Techn. Dsgnr-Wovens-Designer Label...$OPEN Jennifer*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 Well established fashion jewelry company Techn. Dsgnr-Missy Sptswr. Wovens....$To 60K [email protected] Organized, energetic self-starter seeking very creative and experienced Techn. Dsgnr-C.N.S. Knits + Sweaters....OPEN responsible for conceptualizing, Jewelry Designer. Must possess a strong Admin. Design Asst. Other [email protected] executing visual merchandising sense of color and have the ability to Duties include organizing sample room Designer to $110K. Current exp. in JR. or Fax Resume to (212) 302-1161 sptswr/dresses. Strong in wovens.Must objectives & P.O.P. display design spot trends. Experience working with &design dept. Must be PC literate, reporting to the Creative Director. crystals and semi-precious stones. Port- self motivated with strong follow-up hang w/CDC, Rampage, City triangle, skills. Salary to $35K. E-mail to: COMPUTER MANAGER Byer, Rappers, my Michelle, Jonathan Requires 3-5 years of experience in folio required. Salary commensurate National Clothing Mfg. seeks Comput- with experience. 488 7th Avenue [email protected] Martin, etc. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy retail visual merchandising, vendor er Manager. EDI knowledge a plus, negotiations, and 3-D design. Knowl- Please send resumes in confidence to: Live/Work email Server Exp., Network. Benefits/ [email protected] Admin Since 1967 edge of PC/Mac platforms including Unique Showroom Space...... $3850 401K Designer to $150K. Current exp. in better Auto-Cad, Soundworks, Adobe Photo Duplex PH. 1400 sf/ +/-. Skylight. W-I-N-S-T-O-N Fax: 718-369-4927 foundation bras req’d. Creative + tech shop and Illustrator. Spiral staircase. 2 bths, 2 entries. knowledge + patternmaking skills. Grad- 1 Bedrooms...From $1,795 APPAREL STAFFING Customer Service supervisor to $50K. DESIGN*SALES*MERCH ing, etc. Midtown Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Meldisco blends its expertise in the Drman. Hi ceils. Wood flrs. Immed Occ Current exp. in apparel co. required. footwear business across numerous 212-629-8694 / M-F / 10-6 / NO FEE ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION Exp. supervising others. Troubleshoot (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 retail formats - providing Footwear retailers problems and confirmation of Solutions to retail stores, vendor For Space in Garment Center goods shipped. Excel/as/400 proficient. management inventory arrangements, Sales base + comm. Current exp. in Helmsley-Spear, Inc. Alexis Bittar Fax: 973-379-1275 Jaral Agcy. DESIGN/STUDIO MANAGER or as a provider of brands via our costume jewelry. This co. has licensed, 212-880-0414 Contemporary Design Firm seeks wholesale operations. branded & private label for women, exp’d indiv. with strong managerial Jrs, Kids, etc. Strong growth co. GARMENT CENTER REAL ESTATE STORE MANAGER - (Soho) Design Assistant Send resume and salary history to: Experienced store manager. Must Leading manufacturer of Women’s & and organizational skills. Duties Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy For ALL office & loft SPACES include overseeing Design, Sample HR Dept., Footstar 933 MacArthur 500-20,000 SQ.FT have luxury goods retail experience. Jr. Outerwear seeks an experienced, Blvd., Mahwah, NJ 07430 or Start up store experience a plus. motivated, creative individual for posi- Room, Fittings and Factories. Must be Under Market Sublets - NO FEE! able to create and maintain Design Email: [email protected] 525 7th Avenue Shared Shwrm Own Ent tion as Design Assistant / Technical EOE PRODUCTION COORDINATOR - Designer. Qualified candidate must have /Production Calendar. Salary based on 212-947-5500 Costume jewelry. Must have experi- knowledge of technical computer sketch- exp. Fax resume w/cover letter to: Paul, Mike, Larry, Don, Jerry or Steve ence managing over 25 people. Must es, and possess excellent communication (212)-398-9695 PATTERN/SPEC TECH to $50K have computer skills. Please indicate &organizational skills. Working knowl- PA loc. Strong patern/constuction exp. past management experience. edge of Photoshop, Illustrator, Word, Allen*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 and Excel a must. Excellent growth [email protected] We offer room for growth along with opportunity. Fax resume & cover letter: competitive salary + benefits. 212-613-6507 Please fax resume and salary history GRAPHIC ARTIST PRODUCTION - ASSISTANT to: 718-422-7584 Email Designer $60-$70K. Current exp. in girls or jr. Major apparel company seeks graphic Ladies dress designer/importer on 7th Showroom Sublet - Brand New artist with experience in infant/toddler - Ave seeks a detailed-oriented individu- 171 Madison 3300 FT Wood Floors [email protected] intimate apparel. Panties, bras, tanks, crops, color concepts etc + creative + tech. Hang w/ boys. Must be proficient in Illustrator/ al with 2+ years experience to assist Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Photoshop. production area. Responsibilities in- Search-www.manhattanoffices.com Allocator/Customer Service Vandale, Sarah lee, Inner Secrets, Berlin, etc. IMMEDIATE PAYMENT Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy Fax resume to 212-239-2766 clude creating purchase orders, track- We Buy Large Size Sportswear Menswear apparel firm seeks allocator/customer svc rep. Prior exp ing deliveries, etc. Must be computer LARGE QUANTITIES Designer literate, proficient in Excel. E-mail re- Send Samples To: DANICE STORES allocating orders nec. Must have -tomanage Excel, phone and interpersonal skills. JEWELRY DESIGNER sume and salary requirements to: 482 Fulton St., Brooklyn, NY 11201 sales and imports for upscale costume [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Ability to prioritize,wk independently jewelry wholesaler. Must have experi- essentl. Detail oriented. Salary comm. Graphic/Cad Designer w/exp. Full Benefits. ence with offshore mfrs, sales and YM’S & BOYS’ KNIT TOPS 2 YEAR SUBLET product development. Sal$85-90K. Est’d YM + Boys’ Co. seeks creative Fax resume with cover sheet and [email protected] PRODUCTION salary req to: 212-290-8176 Graphic Designer/Artist, w/ flair for Leading Childrenswear Co., in business interpreting major trends for mass 358 Fifth Avenue Designer for 75 years, seeks energetic staffer for 1,300 sq. ft. 2 Showrroms, 2 Offices mkt. merchants. Must have exp. w/ Adobe ANALYST Illust. & Photoshop. Must be proficient Production Dept. Must have strong Furnished w/Slatwall - Built-ins Kikit Sport Designer knowledge of garment construction, Windows on 5th Call 800-268-0456 x 127 *IMMEDIATE HIRE* Extensive exp. of weekend wear & w/ repeats, colorway, concept sketch Successful growing accessories co. seeks and patterns. Creativity a must. Please patternmaking, grading, and exp. in cut-n-sew. Must be proficient in development of spec packages. Will be person w/K-Mart, Wal-Mart or Target Exp. fax resume to: HR Dir. @ (212) 760-9705 Upbeat, super organized. Great fun, friendly research/dev. with fabric mills, trim hands-on involved in a variety of pro- Velour-Fleece group. Full benefits. $45-80K. BOE. suppliers & work directly with sample duction jobs; will approve samples & French Terry Lycra+reg Call Laurie 201-871-9800 factories/agents. Must be able to monitor quality control. Must have impec- Drake Fabrics or email [email protected] expedite samples from concept to final cable accuracy, persistent follow-up skills, 718-389-8902 KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS garment; tech packs; o/s travel; min. 5 ability to multi-task, & computer literacy yrs exp. req. & CAD, Prima Vision, GRAPHIC DESIGNER (Illustrator/Photoshop). Exp. w/importing Photoshop, Gallery & Excel a must. Leader in the category of children’s aplus. Please Fax/E-mail cover letter, Art Director Please fax resume in confidence to Licensed Footwear seeks an exception- resume & salary history to Mr. Scott at: Peg 212-819-1912. ally creative individual to join its De- 212-643-9653 VAbased global Sportswear Co. seeks [email protected] Art Director. sign Team in Hackensack, NJ. Charac- ter licensing experience a major plus! Primary Responsibilities Include: DESIGNER Looking for a highly creative, innovative, Must have a keen fashion sense and •Managing seasonal sportswear line superior sketching ability. Proficiency breaks for multiple customers &motivated Designer to join fast paced Production Manager PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD women’s sportswear company. Must have in Illustrator and Photoshop is required. Women’s Sleepwear Co. seeks a highly Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- •Coordinating samples, graphics, and If you feel you are ready to expand No Lot Too Big or Too Small. presentations knowledge of embroidery technique. motivated/organized person. Minimum sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Follow up product packages overseas. your horizons and work in a dynamic, 5 years experience. Duties include sending Call CLOTHES-OUT: •Support in translating graphic trends fast paced environment, please email (937) 898-2975 into coordination images for sports- Ability to spot trends. Technical experi- & tracking all orders to factory. Fluent ence a plus. Must be a team player. your resume to: [email protected] in Mandarin & English. Fax resume & wear lines or fax 201-343-5216. •Support in creating strong, marketble Those qualified please send resume to: salary requirements to: 212-213-9345 art for printing on T’s as well as Fax: (212) 575-0069 other sportswear Production Patternmaker Skills & Tools Required: DESIGNER Women’s Designer Sportswear. •Managing an Art Department Major apparel company seeks dynamic GRAPHIC DESIGNER experienced designer. Must have expe- 5+ yrs. Skilled in fitting, tech. •Fluency in Freehand & Photoshop Men’s underwear, sleepwear and lounge- accuracy from sample to production •Experience in the T-shirt industry, or rience with Infant/Toddler Boys. Must wear company seeks creative, detail be proficient in Photoshop and/or prototype. Mail res. & salary req. to: OFF PRICE BRANDED APPAREL an understanding of the process oriented, highly motivated individual. Box#M 1001 Illustrator. Mass Market experience a Qualified individual should be proficient 50-70% off Original Wholesale. Women’s, Please Fax or E-mail resume & salary plus. Excellent salary and benefits. c/o Fairchild Publications in Illustrator 10, Photoshop 7, Plaid mak- 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl Men’s & Kids. Warehouse appts avail. requirements to: Fax resume to 212-239-2766 Contact Marsha @ 516-239-8111 SAMPLE SALE 703-330-5315 / [email protected] er plus and Streamline. Development of New York, NY 10001 BEN ELIAS Underwear and Underpinnings, licensed characters and novelty prints Loungewear, Sleepwear and Robes DESIGNER-SOCKS are needed. This individual should have ASSOCIATE DESIGNER Seeking Highly Motivated,Organized agreat work attitude and be able to work For Men and Women Major apparel company seeks experi- PRODUCT MANAGER DECEMBER 3rd (8 a.m. - 6 p.m.) Designer. Knowledge of Macs, in a fast paced work environment. Must enced individual to act as liaison be able to meet deadlines and be a team COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR DECEMBER 4th 8 a.m. - 3 p.m.) Photoshop, and Illustrator a must! EYEWEAR 40 East 34th Street, Room# 819 between design and production. Experience in Socks/Hosiery a plus - player. We offer excellent health benefits L’AMY, a leading Co. in the eyewear indus- Responsibilities include assisting Brands, Private Label and salary to compensate experience. Fax resume to 212 842-4030 try has an opportunity for a Product Mgr. designers with concepts/layouts, Please fax resume Attn: Manage our COLUMBIA SPORTSWEAR pricing inquiries and completing Design 212-564-6135 or email: [email protected] collection of eyeglass frames & sunglasses production packages. Must have Equal Opportunity Employer Designer from creation to execution to market. knowledge of Photoshop and/or Eyewear exp. preferred. Send/Fax/E-mail CLOSE OUTS Illustrator. Stephan & Co. SaraMax resume w/income reqmt’s. to HR Dept. Fax resume to 212-239-2766 L’AMY GROUP We Buy Men’s, APPAREL AND RETAIL JOB BOARD JEWELRY DESIGNER 37 Danbury Rd., Wilton, CT 06897 Women’s & Children’s Job Candidates-Post your Resume & View Jobs CAD OPERATOR Leading costume Jewelry Co. seeks self- 203-762-3475 / [email protected] All Quantities Employers-Post jobs & view qualified resumes Dynamic co seeking exp cad operator motivated designer (min. 3 years exp.) WE HAVE INSTANT MONEY www.fashioncareercenter.com for swtr. CAD line sheets, hangtag for all aspects of line development. Must... GURHAN designs, new color matching to CAD NY JEWELRY DESIGNER SEEKS: Receptionist/ Customer Service We are nice people to deal with RESUMES THAT WORK! SINCE 1970 system, all colors/striping/patterns •Be able to design for Jr.’s through Missy • Bookkeeper QuickBooks, Excel Ladies lingerie co. seeks an individual •Have ability to travel P.S. Large Piece Good Deals Updating/Phone Interviews cadded/formatted for market. Ability • Cust. Svc & Biz Development Assoc. with good telephone presence. Will PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. to prioritize, excellent communication •Have knowledge of overseas mfg. • Marketing & PR Manager and Assoc. Also HBA and General Merchandise. 60 E 42nd Street, NYC 10165 and prima knit mgr skills a must. •Be proficient in Photoshop • Selling Specialist for major dept. stores meet and greet customers & assist in Call Rocky 800-762-5488 (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 Please fax resume in confidence to •Be extremely detail oriented Fax: (646) 230-1112 customer service. Must be computer www.resumesforfashion.com Peg at 212-819-1912. Please Fax resume to: 212-481-4244 E-mail: [email protected] literate. Fax 212-481-0455 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 1, 2003 23 Obituaries Marjorie Schlesinger Deane, Tobe Head Coldwater Creek Net Up 16% NEW YORK — Marjorie Schles- Coburn School. NEW YORK — Led by strength million a year ago and accounted Expense leverage showed up inger Deane, chairman of week- After a stint at The Tobe Re- in its retail stores, Coldwater for 39.3 percent of total company in a 200 basis-point contraction in ly merchandising publication port, Deane joined Macy’s as Creek Inc. posted healthy bot- sales, compared with 28.9 percent selling, general and administra- and consulting service The Tobe senior vice president and acces- tom- and top-line gains in the last year. Internet sales, however, tive costs to 34.7 percent of sales. Report, died Nov. 22 of compli- sory stylist in 1949, where she third quarter. dipped 0.7 percent to $39.1 mil- Addressing weakness in the cations from Alzheimer’s introduced such departments as For the three months ended lion, while catalogue sales with- challenging catalogue channel, Disease. She was 80. the Accessory Bazaar, which Nov. 1, the Sandpoint, Idaho- ered 14.3 percent to $44.7 million. Spence said that beginning in In Deane’s 60 years in the later became The Arcade. At based multichannel retailer said Taken together, Internet and cata- January, Coldwater Creek will fashion industry, she was presi- Macy’s, she also launched the net earnings grew 16 percent to log sales represented 60.7 percent merge the Spirit and Elements dent of the Fashion Group, a first fashion TV program, “It’s $5.6 million, or 23 cents a diluted of net revenues in the quarter, catalogues, “combining the best founder of the Council of Fash- Smart to Be Thrifty” with Gene share, which matched the Wall down from 71.1 percent in the merchandise from both in a ion Designers of America and Lockhart. Street forecast. By comparison, prior-year period. lifestyle book titled Spirit.” served on the boards of the From that show, she was last year the firm had profits of “We were pleased with the Overall, for the first nine Educational Foundation for hired to become the fashion di- $4.8 million, or 20 cents. strong response to fall merchan- months of the fiscal year, Cold- Fashion Industries and the rector for Look magazine. Sales for the period climbed dise in our retail stores,” said water Creek said profits soared Fashion Institute of Technology, In 1963 she returned to the 7.2 percent to $138.2 million chief executive officer Dennis by nearly half, or 48.2 percent, as well as on the Fashion Advis- Tobe Report, eventually got full from $128.8 million a year ago. Pence in a statement. “In partic- to $6.1 million, or 25 cents a di- ory Committee of the Smith- ownership, and consulted stores Robust sales in its fast-expand- ular, the smaller format stores luted share. That compares with sonian Institution in Washington. such as Federated Department ing retail stores segment more we tested in six new markets last year’s earnings of $4.1 mil- In 1942 Deane was accepted Stores, May Co., Wal-Mart, Nei- than offset declines in catalogue have performed above expecta- lion, or 17 cents. Sales for the to Yale University’s Drama man Marcus, Sears, The Gap, J.C. and Internet sales. tions, which, combined with period grew 7 percent to $350 School, but while preparing, Penney and Saks Fifth Avenue. By division, stores and outlets solid performance in our retail million from $327.2 million a she realized she was more in- She is survived by a sister, advanced 45.9 percent to rev- store base, has allowed us to year ago. terested in costumes and fash- Kathryn Michel; two daughters, enues of $54.3 million from $37.2 leverage store occupancy costs.” — Dan Burrows ion than acting. She declined Gregg Deane Swain and Kathryn Yale’s offer, and took a job at de- Deane-Krantz; two sons, Disque partment store Franklin Simon, D. Deane and Walter Longstreet while also attending the Tobe Deane, and six grandchildren. Key Changes at Doneger Group Continued from page 2 the group with the acquisition of Doneger. It’s like coming back Ames Stevens, Textile Executive, 74 manager at Loehmann’s. He later VBW Associates in 1990 and over- home, but I’ve come back with a formed his own buying office, saw men’s and children’s until well-rounded understanding of NEW YORK — Ames Stevens, Co. He ran that as president which was eventually sold to the 1997 when she shifted to misses’ the complete cycle of retailing a retired textile executive and owner until 1988, when it VBW Associates buying office and juniors’. Doneger’s other top and manufacturing.” from Gloucester, Mass., died was sold and he retired. that Doneger took over in 1990. merchant is Roseanne Cumella, Burns also said that he’s Nov. 22 on his way home from Stevens was affiliated with Bradley-Riley, formerly mer- senior vice president overseeing leaving Ballinger Gold “in a a football game. He was 74. many textile organizations, serv- chandise manager, adds men’s dresses, outerwear, accessories very good position,” adding, “It’s According to his son, who ing as chairman of the American and children’s wear to her re- and intimate apparel. a great brand with strong legs. is also named Ames Stevens, Textile Manufacturers Insti- sponsibilities while continuing the cause of death was heart tute’s wool committee, as well as over misses’ and junior sports- I’ve come back with a well-rounded failure. chairing the Northern Textile wear. She takes on responsibili- “ During his time in the in- Association and the National ties that were held by Mark understanding of the complete cycle dustry, Stevens served with a Association of Wool Manu- Minsky, senior vice president of number of major New England facturers. merchandising in men’s, chil- of retailing and manufacturing. firms. In addition to his son, dren’s, sportswear and plus sizes, who resigned. Sue Umans and ” He started his career at the Stevens is survived by his — Tom Burns, Doneger Group family-owned Ames Textile wife, Ruth; two brothers, Elaine Berkman will continue Corp., which was founded in Edward and George; a sister, with responsibility for Doneger Asked why he decided to re- I’ll still be working with them.” 1865. He rose to the post of vice Priscilla Rutherford; two Buying Connection, its plus-sizes turn to Doneger, Burns said, “I He explained that The Doneger president, director and treasur- daughters, Priscilla Stevens division. They report to Doneger. looked at my situation and asked Group has retained Prosperity er at Ames. In 1970, he bought French and Hope Stevens; a Doneger said that the two ex- myself where I could take all that Clothing Co., the Hong Kong- off a piece of the Ames business second son, Brooks, and 11 ecutive changes were unrelated. I’ve learned from my experiences based parent of Ballinger, as a and named it Brooks Woolen grandchildren. He noted Bradley-Riley joined and put it to the best use. It’s with client.

Sales NYC Based Positions Receptionist/Cust. Service Sr. Product Dev Asst. EPILOGUE Current exp. in these markets req’d. Manhattan based watch company Home textiles co. seeks responsible SALES POSITION Womens outrwr, any price point OK. Girls seeks candidate for receptionist posi- person reporting to VP Design. Must 7-16 to dept/specialty stores. Missy tion. Duties include fielding customer possess excellent written & verbal Division of Rhapsody Clothing, Inc. dresses/ sportswear dept store mkt. Junior service calls as well as showroom/sales skills. Skilled in MS Windows, Established Junior’s company looking tops private label or branded. Womens bet- assistance. Must have excellent comm. Outlook, Excel, Adobe Photoshop & for a professional individual for our NY ter casual sprtswr private label. Call 973- skills and work well over the phone. Illustrator. Must be very organized showroom. Must have strong Department 564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency. Knowledge of Microsoft Office req. and able to multi-task in fast paced store relationships. Please send resume: Major Junior’s bottoms resource is expanding its team. We are Email resume to: [email protected] Fax: (213) 488-9611 or environment. Admin. Responsibilities Email: [email protected] SALESPERSON seeking some powerful people for the following key positions: include spec sheets, order tracking, budget sheets, expense reports. Knits & Wovens Better women’s sportswear firm seeks Design responsibilities include devel- salesperson. Outstanding comm., mer- SALES EXECUTIVE opment for factories, review and track Jr. Dress Line seeks Sales Rep. Must have chandising skills & 2 yrs prior exp. samples, approvals, customer presenta- experience w/dress buyers from dept. & required. Fax resume to (212) 921-5042. Must have 3-5 years experience and contacts with specialty 213-627-1196 chains and department stores. tions. 3-4 years experience in home chain stores. Fax to Gary: Retail Sales textiles or apparel. Retail store sales to $34K + incentives. Fax your resume to (212) 213-1683 Current exp. in high-end luxury soft goods SENIOR DESIGNER full time sales positions available in our required. 5 days/wk. Hours: 9:45-6, Madi- NYC boutique. candidate must have at son Ave in 60’s. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Tech designer $65-$75K. Current exp. Min. 3 years experience in Juniors with emphasis on woven least 2 plus years experience in sales, SALES EXECUTIVE bottoms. Must be proficient with MAC computer and key working for an upscale luxury brand. can- in jr. bottoms. Wovens. Denim. Twill. didate must excel in customer service and Cordoroy. Manage 1. Mdtwn Co. Call Est’d NYC pvt label kidswear co. seeks programs. clienteling. salary commensurate with Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy exp Sales Mgr for new exciting brand- experience. must be polished, professional ed line. Must have contacts in better and polite. please email resume to: market for this ground floor opportuni- SENIOR TECHNICAL DESIGNER [email protected] ty. Will also participate in growth of INDEPENDENT SALES REP pvt label at all price points. P/T flex Min. 5 years experience with creating specs and size gradings For better/contemp. dress collection. for Juniors bottoms. Good communication skills are essential. Sales Assistant hours. Fax resume: 212-967-2038 Must have good account relationships SALES EXECUTIVE w/ better specialty & dept stores. Email Eveningwear Apparel Co. seeks highly resume : [email protected] Please note position you are applying for. organized, detail oriented and computer INTERTEX EXPANSION literate person to assist V.P. of Sales. Fax Forward resume to ATTN. Terri via e-mail at: 212-695-8958 Requires strong selling account [email protected] or fax to: 212-840-6714. res. to Human Resources: executive for their better sweater and SPEC TECH knit division MAURICE SASSON. Childrenswear Company seeks experi- Strong compensation program for right person. Major dept stores a must. enced Spec Tech for Girls and Boys Accounts Manager to $150K base ++. Send resume to Jack Weinstock at division. Should have working knowl- Current exp. in private label cut & 212-819-1912 edge of specs, grading and production sewn knit tops, missy and large size, with overseas factories. Candidate 4-12 dollar wholesale. Min 5 yrs exp Sales Mgr/Key Acct Exec. $150K + must be strong in Excel and have good in this mkt req’d. Must hang w/ incentives. Current exp. in mens ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS *** follow up and tracking skills. Must be Golden Touch, E.S. Sutton, ISG, moderate to better sportswear. Strong Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, PRODUC- organized and detail oriented. Regatta etc. Take over established relationships w/ dept. stores required. TION, ACCOUNTING, TECHNICAL etc. staff? Fax resume to 212-239-2766 accts. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy. **CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy.** AIL)

Extravagance within reach THE COLLECTION: $40 TO $250 (SUGGESTED RET TO THE COLLECTION: $40

NADRI JEWELRY GROUP 45 WEST 36TH STREET 12TH FLOOR NEW YORK 10018 (212) 683-2972