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WE CARE FOR MADRAS THAT IS

Vol. XXVIII No. 5 June 16-30, 2018 How (not to) maintain educational campuses!

(By The Editor)

or all the talk about Swacch Bharath and the necessity for Fcleanliness in public spaces, we appear to be doing very little by way of addressing the most impressionable target audience – students. Most college campuses, in particular the ones run by the Government, present a sorry picture of neglect and bad maintenance. Given the general squalor that abounds, how do we expect our students to grow up to be responsible citizens? Take the Presidency and Queen Mary’s College campuses. Both It is planned to build a road in the spaciousness in front of the Brodie Castle (rear left), the home of the Tamil Nadu are in terrible shape with very little attention being paid to their College of Music, to enable ministers to get home a few minutes quicker while disturbing a sylvan, if ill-kept campus. Iron upkeep. It is a wonder that bars are sure to follow (see MM, June 1, 2018). Photo: R. Raja Pandiyan. students continue to study at these places. Perhaps they do not have any choice in the matter. The hostels are in worse Time to team for a cleaner city shape and the protests by students staying in them are t is disappointing that distinction of being the most Plastic in solid waste poses a sing awareness campaigns. Less regular affairs. The Teachers’ I Chennai City, which was responsive among the southern problem in solid waste disposal. than one per cent of waste from College, lost at least a 235th out of 434 cities of India states, with three of its cities According to The World Swedish households goes to couple of its heritage buildings in the 2017 Report of Swachh moving upwards from report to Economict present, Forum the Chennai study, ifMet- plas- relationships?landfill dumps. Has an expert to Metro Rail and what is left is Survekhsan by the Ministry of report – Vishakapatnam mov-Aticropolitan pollution Areacontinues is 1,189to rise, studyConcerted been done rejection to assess of whatplas- dilapidated. Housing and Urban Affairs ing up from 44th rank to 5th,sq.kmoceans after will its have notification more plastics in needstic usage to be itselfdone wouldto result reduce in a But this is not all. It also (MoHUA), has failed to im- Hyderabad from 50th to 19th1975.than CMDA fish by intends 2050. India’sto expand con- positivesolid waste impact and on of decongestion, a component appears that the administration prove upon its ranking in the and Vijayawada from 46th toit totribution 8,878 to sq.km plastic wasteengulfing that is reducedthat is difficultpollution in and disposal. improved The is forever trying to build upon 2018 report covering 4041 cit- 23rd. Tamil Nadu has nothingTiruvallurdumped andinto theKancheepuram world’s oceans qualitynon-water of life? closet solid waste whatever empty space that is ies. The full report for 2018 is similar, to claim. Trichy andDistrictsevery yearand isArakkonam a massive 60 and per canWhen be treated the area by awas simple expanded home available in these campuses, yet to be released, but, when re- Nemili Taluks in Vellore District, todevice 1,189 sq.km,which Governmentcan be scaled rea- up thereby destroying the very leased, it would only help us to becoming part of sonedfor combined that a largeaction area by resi-was atmosphere that such instit- know why we failed and not dents of apartment complexes. ● by A Specialthe Correspondent region. The objective is to needed to find the best possible utions are supposed to have. whether we did. anticipate the needs of the popu- locationSuch complexes for employment, could also afford- iso- The Lady Willingdon Institute A scientifically designed tool lation by 2026. ablelate housing pre-detergent and relocation applied of has a new block built, thank- kit for the Survey also doubles Enlargement of the City slumskitchen and developingwater for wateringconnecti- fully in sympathetic style, along- up as a detailed guideline for plants with some minimal treat- Coimbatore are within the firstregion,cent. and The that country too, generatesby over vity. This was primarily to be side the older building. The action by public agencies at lo- ment or filtering. Solar energy, 20 ranks but Chennai, as thesevenaround times 56 seems lakh highly tonnes complex of plas- achieved by creating satellite ’ south cal and control levels to raise rainwater harvesting, reverse capital of the State, isandtic over waste ambitious. annually. Reservations Chennai towns and peripheral ring roads. campus in has and maintain cleanliness stan- osmosis treatment and waste- nowhere. on somegenerates issues 429 cannot tonnes be ofhelped. plastic Of five proposed towns, only managed get rid of whatever dards. The surveys of 2014 and water recycling should be The main components forHavewaste similar per objectives,day, which asis werenearly two – Manali and Maraimalai tree cover it had by way of put- 2017 show that of 434 cities adopted voluntarily by residen- swachhata are collection andspelt10 out, per beencent achievedof total municipal for the Nagar – were accomplished. This ting up new structures. The covered only three cities each in tial complexes, owning respon- transportation, processing andfirstsolid expansion waste. to 1189 sq.km? If has not been adequate to arrest latest to join the long list of Tamil Nadu and Andhra sibility for disposal of a good disposal and sanitation as indi-the answerTo reduce is in the this negative, menace, how the the rising overcrowding in casualties is the Arasu Isai Pradesh and each one in part of their own waste. cated by prevalence of open def-is anNational enlarged Green area a substituteTribunal forsug- Chennai city. The object of Kalluri aka Government Col- Karnataka and Kerala were If three bulk generators of ecation. Efficient handling ofsoundgested conception a ban on and disposable implemen- plas- making housing in suburbs an lege of Music located at Brodie’s within first 30 ranks – and only solid waste could be made to fall these operations has been spelttation?tic such If the as answercutlery, is bags in the and attractive option has not been Castle, on the banks of the one each within the first ten. in line and deal with a good part out step by step. An interestingaffirmative,other items. would Sweden it not be has realis- run realised. Reports from residents Adyar. Mysuru consistently retained its of their own waste, the load on feature of the survey is that thetic toout break of trash the andproposed is asking massive other in outlying areas indicate that This has for long been a syl- first rank in 2104 and 2016 and the public system would come outcome is evaluated by inde-expansioncountries intofor their manageable garbage to local roads have not been put in van campus, despite its rather ranked as the fifth cleanest city down drastically and make col- pendent field observations andmodules,keep itsof therecycling same sizeplant as run-for place nor has the supply of indifferent maintenance. The in the country in the 2018 Re- lection of the rest more citizen feedbacks, not by relyingthening! first Swedenexpansion, has tackled without the serviced land for middle and port. Andhra Pradesh has the (Continued on page 2) only on collected numbers. weakeningpollution their at source organic by inter-organi- (Continued on page 2) CMYK 2 MADRAS MUSINGS June 16-30, 2018 Despoiling More on thanneer pandals educational hat with summer being it in the issuing of the com- is now a neighbour’s mango Where and showing no mand or in its implementation? tree that gives him the shivers. signs of leaving, though The Why is God a stone, asked a This being the season for the Man from Madras Musings third song and supplied the an- yellow fruit, this tree is heavy must admit that the heat is not swer – because man is also with it. And at all times of the campuses a patch on what it was last stone-hearted these days (film day and night, the fruit keeps year, the political parties, – Our Brother). Now what is falling. In the dead of night it (Continued from page 1) vehicles will use this as a road whose sympathy for the poor the party going to do about sounds exactly like a canon to reach Adyar Bridge. The and deserving is well known, melting such people MMM ball landing in your vicinity college is housed in the main entire campus will be destroyed are going overboard in setting wondered? Yet another, from and many a time MMM has building, the offices of the Vice and the college will be scarcely up water-dispensing kiosks all the film Upper Class Girl, woken up with his heart Chancellor of the Tamil Nadu able to function. over the city. Regulars of this asked one Palaniappa to see the pounding. When overhanging University of Fine Arts are in an This is also seen as a means column will recall that it was shallow ways of the Pattanam boughs let loose their fruits on annexe and there is also a splen- to get the college to leave just a fortnight or so ago that aka Madras aka Chennai. to MMM’s terrace, the sound Local Melody, the leader of the MMM fairly bristled at it, for is exactly like the footsteps of didly maintained but sparingly Brodie’s Castle. The Govern- Beef Jeopardising Party had matinee idol, and his successor a thickset burglar. During the used Tagore Film Centre, ment has allotted 32 acres of inaugurated one close to chez all made their name here, lived day, MMM has to walk in his owned by the National Film land in for the MMM. This fortnight it was here and died here. They took garden with his head held Development Corporation. A institution, but it is reluctant to the turn of the ruling party, a peek at the mofussil only high, chiefly to watch out for vast amphitheatre, built a move as the faculty feels stu- comprising the Tweedledum- when they went to canvas for falling fruit. decade ago, occupies yet dents will be put to great hard- Tweedledee combo. votes. Of course, MMM is in a mi- another part of the campus and ship if they have to travel that Unlike Local Melody’s out- Perhaps the only song that nority when it comes to this is completely in disuse. The distance on a daily basis. It is fit, which put up banners still struck MMM as relevant tree. Schoolchildren and quite whole place has a sense of peace understood that both the Fine clearly prepared when party was the one from the movie a few adults passing by stop to and quiet and students practice supremo was not looking for One In A Thousand, that aim at a mango or two with a Arts University and its they were all hailing her as the hoped that we could all sing pebble. They rarely manage to their art in the open apart from neighbour, the MGR Sathya- next messiah, this was an affair freely like the birds up there catch the fruit as it falls. Once the classrooms. bhama College, have protested where the messiahs were no and dance with abandon like it touches the ground, the im- All this atmosphere will soon against this road plan by the longer with us. Posters and the waves down here, for we all pact makes it a pulpy mess but be destroyed if the Government Government. It is not clear if banners of late leader and the have equal rights under a com- you should see the delight in has its way. The Chief Minister such representations will have leader who came later and then mon sky and on a common soil. the eyes of those who run and has announced in the Assembly any effect. went on to become late despite That is something that original collect it nevertheless. Some a plan to lay a road through this For the record, Brodie’s delusions of immortality were leader, his successor and their enterprising adults climb on to campus so that Greenway’s Castle is also recognised as a Road can connect to Durgabai heritage structure by the High Deshmukh Road on the Adyar. Court of Madras. But such Ostensibly meant to ease considerations have meant SHORT ’N’ SNAPPY congestion at the Greenway’s little for even larger and more Road junction, its prime prominent buildings. The purpose is to allow Ministers College and its present home and senior Government officials stand threatened and there is in the area faster access to their prominently displayed as were common rival all failed to en- MMM’s rooftop, dislodging very little that can be done joint pictures of Tweedledum sure. And so did all the other several tiles in the process, to residences. The plan, if about it in the face of official and Tweedledee who are ap- fringe players with aspirations pluck some of the fruit. The implemented, will mean apathy. pearing so together every- to power. It then came home to expense involved in repairing where that MMM will not be MMM that if this wish had the damage is of course, not surprised if they become con- been fulfilled, all the other theirs. Squirrels love this tree joined, like Siamese Twins. In songs too would have rung true and so do parakeets. Add a FOR A CLEANER CITY keeping with a party that does automatically. About the rest cuckoo or two, a couple of cats not have much of a real of the event MMM will not that are forever foraging for (Continued from page 1) measures require no effort nor agenda, though for that mat- write. Suffice it to say that it young birds, and several crows much money. ter no political outfit in our ran along the lines of Local and you have the complete manageable and efficient. country has one beyond being Melody’s inauguration. The af- menagerie. These are the apartment com- Among numerous aspects of elected to office, songs of first termath too was the same – an Now why are the fruits not plexes and gated communities, social and environmental and original leader were belted abandoned kiosk from that being plucked is what you want commercial complexes and reform confronted by us, noth- out non-stop. MMM enjoyed very afternoon. to know. MMM has made sev- parks. The first could be in- ing can be more fundamental the melodies, for these were all eral representations to his duced by suitable discount on and challenging than cleanli- from films of an era when mu- Falling mangoes neighbour but apparently you property tax and/or GST and sic was paramount. But when cannot find a professional ness and sanitation. It is funda- t happened once to The Man the second by statutory compul- he began reflecting on the fruit-picker for love or for mental because it affects basic content he began to have the Ifrom Madras Musings. He money. The going rate, so sion. The park waste could, health that governs our prone- feeling that this was a party had parked his car and gone for MMM hears, is Rs 5 per mango without much difficulty, be ness to diseases, productivity that really needs some a meeting. On returning he plucked and even at that price converted into compost. and above all social acceptance makeover and some fresh found a gaping hole in the there is no one willing to under- By our daily experience we in the eyes of the international thinking to justify its exist- windscreen and nestling in the take the task. Gone are the know that the collection system community that is keen to tour ence. For how many decades driver’s seat was an unhusked days when these men, despite in the City has not been satis- India to discover its ancient can you survive by playing coconut. A look upwards being “spiritually elevated and factory. In many areas this is not glory and values. It is challeng- motivational songs of a sound solved the mystery. A coconut illuminated from the inside”, timely and the bin is left lo over- vintage? tree that was leaning high would think nothing of shin- ing because it calls for above the car had given of its flow spilling all over the road. It To illustrate, take the song ning up the tree and plucking behavioural transformation and that asks as to how long will plenty. Back home, MMM was the fruit for a small payment, starts decomposing, becoming a robust civic sense without leaders cheat people in this told by his Good Lady, also which in turn was spent in health hazard. Heavy collection which there can be little impact country. In the 1950s, in the known as She Who Must Be more spiritual uplift. These vehicles negotiating through on the present poor state of film Mountain Thief it was Obeyed, that he ought to con- hardy souls have either got on narrow streets and, often, hygiene and sanitation. perhaps a question to be sider himself lucky, for if it had to the wagon en masse or are blocking traffic is a common asked. In 2018, corruption is hit him, MMM, instead of the busy elsewhere. Hopefully they sight in Chennai. This is a The 2018 Report would pro- taken for granted, especially car, it could have caused a are not propping up the walls of readily remediable problem, the vide valuable clues for focusing after leading lights from this nasty concussion. Bald men, the closest Tasmac. And so the resolution of which could make future action and, meanwhile, party have been convicted of said MMM’s Good Lady with a fruits continue to fall. Thank- a big difference. Collection the reports published so far their hands being in the till. If meaningful glance, were at fully, none has made a landing show that – one, Tamil Nadu I send out a command and if it greater risk. on MMM, as yet. May be it is would be much easier and Many years have since gone government agencies have not is implemented, the poor will time for a mobile app that will speedier done overnight as is no longer shed tears, went an- by and MMM is balder. You automatically harvest the fruit. the practice in many countries. taken this movement for clean- other number, this one from would not be wrong in saying These days, apps appear to be The terms of the contract liness seriously and two, Son of Our House. MMM he has balded. Which is why the solution for anything and should be changed, if necessary. citizens’ active participation wondered as to where this MMM considers himself at risk everything. The collection should be moni- and cooperation are sadly grand plan fell through. Was even from falling twigs. But it –MMM tored by GPS tracking. These missing. June 16-30, 2018 MADRAS MUSINGS 3 A wealth of detail in an 18th Century map

r. A. Raman ([email protected]) sends Porte Royale (G) – Grand gate. Maisons des Dme this 18th Century map and note of Ma- habitans (H) – Residences. Magasins de le dras, done by a French Cartographer 15 years compagnie (J) – EEIC Company stores. Place after the French quit the city. It is immaculate d’Arme (K) – Army station. Porte de la Mer (L) in details of what existed within the walls of the – Sea-facing gate. Puits (M) – an ornate foun- Fort. Raman writes: tain. Porte St. Thomé (N) – St. Thomas Gate. Jacques-Nicholas Bellin, whose map of Fort. Porte de la Chauderie (O) – Chauderie could not St. George (i.e., Madras) in le Petit Atlas Mari- be deciphered but likely Choultry Gate. Riv. time Recueti de Cartes et Plans des Quatre Parlies (Rivière) de Montaron – River Cooum. La ville du Monde (Vol. III), dated 1764, is stunning in noire – Native Indian town. La Mer – Bay of terms of accuracy and the attention to details. It Bengal. Prairie – grassland. Chemin – road. lists: Fauxbourg détruit lors de la prise par les François J.-N. Bellin’s Map of the Fort St. George and – Dilapidated residential suburb, because of the Madras (1764). Fort. St. George (A) Fort St. French army attack of Madras, led by Bertrand- George. Gouvernement (B) – Principal offices François Mahé de la Bourdonnais in 1746. of the government. Les Capuchins (C) – Resi- Maison de pleasance du Gouverneur – dence of Friars (minor Capuchin priests). Governor’s summer house. Prêche des Anglais (D) – English (Protestant) EDITOR’S NOTE: Why a French commune’s chapel. La Douane (E) – Customs office. name was given to the Cooum is a bit of a Magasin à Poudre (F) – Gun-powder warehouse. mystery. A house that should be saved have been doing my walking and work-outs at the YMCA INandanam every day for the past 15 years. And there, a bit of Indian sports history is being totally neglected. My picture is of a derelict house, the one in which Harry Crowe Buck lived in. Buck was the ‘Father of the Indian Olympic Movement’ and gave life to sports like Athletics, Basketball, Volleyball and Boxing. Some years ago, there used to be a Lecturer living there. Now, the management is rapidly commercialising the entire area. It has cut age-old trees, demolishing and constructing buildings as it wishes. I fear that this house with a history, facing the , may one day crumble and that will be the excuse to demolish it. INTACH or anyone else must save this lovely house, with a pond in front of it, remnants of it still visible. Gandhi Kannadhasan [email protected]

Till June 30: Journeys to the Centre – an exhibition of paintings by Sovan Kumar – at DakshinaChitra. June 23-24: Gramiya Makkal Thirunal. The annual village fes- tival is back with its myriad ac- tivities of the village community. Various competitions have been Those who join the course can organised such as the Kolam bring their own objects for hands competition and a Kho kho on experience in conservation. match for women, top spinning Objects of heritage value find and sack race contests for a place in Museums and cultural children and Kabaddi competi- institutions. These objects are tion for men. A wide spread of organic, in-organic, metals and village delicacies will be available paintings of different medium. at the food stalls such as tender They need to be preserved for coconut water, ice cola, sweet posterity. For details and regis- corn, butter milk and panagam. tration: 98417-77779 Thank you, Donors This year, the women are also en- couraged to display the handi- We today, publish donations received with thanks for the period upto June 1st. – The Editor crafts made by them at Rs. 50: M Angamuthu DakshinaChitra. Rs. 100: Meenakshisundaram, A; Srinivasan, V Rs 482: Singaraja, M * * * Rs. 200: Abraham, E; Ramana Rao, A V, Rs. 555: Vipradas, G.B. DakshinaChitra Museum is orga- Rs. 900: nizing a five day training program Mahaveer, M Thomas Tharu on Introduction to Conservation Rs. 400: Ananthanarayanan, K.V.; Easterson, Rs. 1000: Veerappan, A.; Palani of objects on all Saturdays in D.C.V.; Mohan, S; Ragavan, N; Sinha, S.N.; Andavan, N June from 10: 30 am to 4.30 pm. Soora Chandramouleeswaran; Rs. 2000: Vasanthi Mathew 4 MADRAS MUSINGS June 16-30, 2018 June 16-30, 2018 MADRAS MUSINGS 5 LOST LANDMARKS OF CHENNAI A biography that became – SRIRAM V an autobiography n Unlikely Chemistry* by due to forces beyond her control, take the idea forward. The hospital that ADr. S. Krishnaswamy, docu- she had to give up on her origi- During a film screening open mentary and television film- nal dreams and instead join her to all students of the University, maker of repute, who hit the husband in building ‘Krishna- Babu saw a documentary on became a store headlines in the late 1970s with swamy Associates’, a film pro- India produced sometime in the The Naval Hospital in 1811. his four-hour magnum opus duction company which he had 1940s as part of the ‘March of Indus Valley to Indira Gandhi, started after returning from the Time’ series by Time magazine. was published in Edinburgh and by the Government Medical The fourth building on the left is tracing the 5,000 years of history US. According to Babu, “It was a dis- aval Hospital Road is a London in 1807. The book de- Supplies Depot. It was the last for the surgeon.” and heritage of India on * * * gusting, distasteful and distorted N thoroughfare that connects scribes a large square building, a named that was earmarked for Sir Edward Pellew, later first celluloid, started as the biogra- Erik Barnouw not only helped portrait of India and it angered with High few hundred yards from the sea the Naval Hospital. Captain Viscount Exmouth, was the Ad- phy of his wife Dr. Mohana Babu in joining Columbia Uni- me. On the spur of the moment, Road, terminating just opposite beach. All the rooms opened John Halstead of the Royal Navy miral in charge of the Eastern Krishnaswamy, but ended up as versity for his Master’s degree but I went up to the dais and the Government College of Fine onto a central courtyard and was appointed the Governor of Indian Ocean. an autobiography of a couple. It also inspired Babu to undertake declared my criticism. Professor Arts. There is, however, no such such was the excellent ventila- the hospital and he was assisted The hospital functioned from is the story of the unlikely chem- two major projects, which would Erik Barnouw, who was in the institution in its vicinity. What tion that there was no foul smell by Lieut. T.C. Thompson. this location till 1831. By then, istry between a scientist and a catapult him into a writer and a audience took the mike from me extends to one side is a long, low- anywhere, except near a few pa- Work began on constructing with peace prevailing since 1799 film-maker who battle personal film-maker deserving interna- and said “This film would serve slung building with a sloping tients who suffered very extreme a proper hospital here and it ap- and the number of ships stopping issues and external challenges tional recognition. A term paper its purpose if only your anger roof. This now houses the Gov- diseases. There were plenty of pears to have been completed by at Madras having markedly re- and go on to build a life on their titled ‘Is American Media Free?’, motivates you to make a proper, ernment Medical Supplies De- servants to clean the place by 1810. The Naval Chronicle, Vol- duced owing to the lack of a own terms. It is also the story of which he had presented at the well-informed, balanced film on pot. And it holds within it the way of sweeping and washing. ume 25, January-July 1811 car- proper harbour, there was a the trials and tribulations, the University, earned the respect of Indian history and culture.” ” history of the long-vanished Na- The hospital was evidently run ried a detailed description of the steady decline in the number of joys and sorrows that the couple the academics. One of them said, The challenge remained with val Hospital. by a group that had taken it on buildings, along with a sketch of patients. It was therefore decided We first read of such an insti- together faced during 48 years of ‘Babu’ reads from the autobio- “It is remarkable that a foreign Babu for 16 years, until he com- tution in H.D. Love’s Vestiges of their marriage. graphy. student from a different cultural pleted Indus valley to Indira Old Madras. In 1744, with En- The book while detailing the background is able to assess our Gandhi, in 1976. And what a gland and France declaring war inspiring story of Mohana also in a restaurant. Mrs Elizabeth media culture so accurately challenge it was! on each other, it became clear to “narrates the socio-political Adiseshaiah said, “You will be While still in the University, Madras that an attack of some events of the last century, a exposed to all this when you are Barnouw, who already had sev- philosophical analysis of the ● by eral books to his credit, casually kind could be expected from away from home in New York. It The Krishnaswamys as they looked forward to life together. Pondicherry. Governor Nicholas Indian psyche besides an essay on is better that you get introduced R.V. Rajan informed Babu that he was going Morse felt that he was not love and relationships”. This to it when two guardians are with [email protected] on a year-long sabbatical leave Master’s degree and later her (CCRAS) at New Delhi. Here, authorised to agree to a sugges- anecdote-rich work is the second you.” and was wondering if he could doctorate. In 1977. Mohana got she eventually became a research tion from M. Dupleix that peace by krishnaswamy, whose first At the RCA institute Babu visit India and work on a book her Ph.D from Madras Univer- scientist researching a potential could be observed at all locations book, Indian Film, with Erik found himself over-qualified and within a short span of time.” This on Indian Cinema. When Babu sity, but when she applied for a drug to fight cancer based on east of the Cape of Good Hope. Barnouw as co-author, was pub- felt that he would not learn any- helped Babu in getting recruited offered his help to the professor position of a research scientist at herbal materials described in London was appealed to for a lished in 1963 and was consid- thing new. He quit the Institute, by the New York State Educa- after he returned to India, the Central Leather Research Ayurveda. She was also involved squadron for the protection of ered the first ever authentic getting a full refund of his fee, tion Department as a trainee in Barnouw responded spontane- Institute (CLRI) in Chennai, she in attempts to develop a birth Madras and action was prompt. record of the history of Indian and got admitted in Columbia Educational Television Produc- ously, “Excellent! It is not a found her being a Brahmin again control drug. Four ships sailed out under the Cinema. University where, apart from the question of your helping. We will coming in the way. Though she Within a few years of her command of Commodore Curtis * * * knowledge he gained about films be co-authors.” Babu was thrilled had done well in the interview, work on anti-cancer drugs based Barnett. In Madras, work began Creativity and film-making and film making, a meeting with beyond words when subseq- one of the panel members told on Ayurveda, she received the on receiving the sailors and one Once the residence of the Director of Medical Supplies, now empty. Is this a survivor from the Naval Hospital? are in the genes of ‘Babu’, as Dr. Professor Erik Barnouw, became uently he heard that Barnouw her straight to her face, “It is un- coveted “Hari Om Asram Gold of the tasks was the kitting out of contract. Could this be the first it “made on the spot” by J Inman, in 1831 to transfer the remaining Krishnaswamy is popularly an important turning point in his had a got a Fulbright Scholarship likely that a Brahmin can get in- Medal” from the Ayurveda a Naval Hospital. This was a dis- instance of private healthcare in nephew of Captain Henry patients to the Company’s/Gar- known among family and friends. life. to write the book and Columbia volved in leather technology, University in Jamnagar, Gujarat. used granary on the Island. India? According to Curtis, the Inman, Admiralty Commis- rison Hospital and make over the He was the seventh child of K. * * * University had agreed to publish since it means dealing with In 1983, Mohana received an The next we hear of this hos- Naval Hospital was far bigger sioner, Madras. An aquatint by Naval Hospital premises to the Subramaniam, the legendary film Mohana, born in Ranchi, the it. leather derived from dead ani- invitation from the Institute of pital is in 1756, when we find it than the Company’s/Garrison James Baily, based on the Inman Gun Carriage Factory. This too maker and freedom fighter whom tenth and the youngest in the * * * mals and a Brahmin woman is Medicinal Plant Development keeping company with the Hospital and had twice the num- sketch is shown above. The hos- was closed in the 1930s and the many consider the ‘Father of family, was brought up in her After marriage, Mohana was unlikely to feel comfortable.” In (IMPLAD) in Beijing, China. Company’s Hospital, both being ber of patients, with the most pital appears to have comprised place was made over to the ’ who produced birth place and Hyderabad. encouraged to continue her spite of Mohana telling the panel While she was delighted in located “on rising ground on the common afflictions being vene- four independent structures: Government Medical Supplies some path-breaking films in the Studying in a Marwari school, studies by Babu’s family. Since that she had been a medical stu- receiving the recognition for her north bank of the old course of real disease, scurvy, rickets and “The Hospital, which is airy Depot. 1940s, the most famous being she picked up good knowledge of she had finished her first-year dent and had even dissected ca- work, some officers of the Thyagabhoomi – a social drama Hindi, Marathi and conversa- study in a medical college in davers, she was not considered CCRAS were unhappy and the river.” The water body so de- unspecified sores. and commodious, capable of ac- It would appear that the old with a patriotic fervor – which tional Telugu and Urdu. She was Hyderabad, technically it was for the post. Even the IIT, envious of the Chinese invitation scribed was the Elambore River, In 1784, the Government de- commodating 500 patients, and Naval Hospital buildings were was banned by the then British also keenly interested in dancing possible for her to get a transfer Chennai, rejected her applica- for Mohana and her visit to that whose old course ran along what cided to build a Naval Hospital in every respect calculated to brought down when the place Government. Babu did an un- and music, but her dream was to to another medical college in tion, this time because she came country. Internally, in the instit- is today NSC Bose Road and and even identified a site for it, promote their health and com- became a gun carriage factory. dergraduate degree in Physics in become a doctor or a pure scien- India because of her exemplary from a well-to-do family. She was ute the atmosphere was becom- from there along the western wall but took no action for several fort, was built under the joint There however appears to be one Madras. Even as he was busy in tist. A brilliant student and a academic record. However, the told by a panel member, “You ing more and more vitiated. of the Fort. That places the Na- years thereafter. From 1790 on- auspices of Sir Edward Pellew survivor – the bungalow on the college, he enrolled in a diploma teacher’s pet, Mohana com- reservation policy of the govern- richly deserve to continue your Mohana had again reached a val and Company Hospitals wards we find the sick and ill and Admiral Drury, the present extreme left of the premises, course of the British Institute of pleted her graduation from The cover of the first edition of the ment would give her the first research in this institute. But you crossroads. where the Fort Station is at from the squadron being referred commander-in-chief of the India which in the old Naval Hospital Radio Engineers, London. After Osmania University but was not Erik Barnouw-Krishnaswamy book. taste of politics in her attempt to see, I have to be considerate to present. All these buildings were once again to the Company’s/ station. To the liberal mind of sketch was the residence of the graduation, his father sent him to comfortable staying with her get a transfer to the Madras people from poorer sections of however demolished in 1757, as Garrison Hospital and so we the latter officer, we understand, surgeon. Now abandoned, it is the US to do a course in film- elder sister, away from her par- tion. He became a ‘Production Medical College. ‘The reverse society…. The fellowship money part of the protracted project of must assume that the Naval Hos- it is particularly indebted for its still a handsome building and making at the RCA Institute in ents who had gone to Chennai to Associate’ of a weekly, 26- discrimination’ against Brah- which the IIT can give you will enhancing the security of the pital by the beach had closed. verandah and several other im- served for long as the residence Manhattan. build a home there. Soon after episodes serial titled ‘World mins, ensured that she would not be peanuts for you. So you will Fort. With that, the Company’s In 1797 Admiral Rainier de- portant advantages. of the Superintendent of the On his way to the US, Babu her twentieth birthday, even Neighbors’. This experience of be able to continue her medical understand, if I give this position Hospital, soon to become the cided that a separate Naval Hos- “The larger hospital to the Government Medical Depot. It is stopped at Paris to spend a while doing her first year in medi- working on a programme to studies. Babu suggested that she to someone who is in need of the General Hospital, moved to its pital was a must. The site se- right, is appropriated to the use not clear as to what plan the couple of days with family friend cine, in a momentary outburst instill in American students join Madras University to money to support his family.” present location. lected in 1784 was allotted for of the petty officers, seamen and Government has in mind for this internationally acclaimed econo- she told her mother, “Either you knowledge of world history and continue her Master’s degree in After a few other offers and The Naval Hospital appears this. It had belonged to Dr. marines. The ground floor of the sole remnant of a bygone age. to have shifted next to the Fort, Colley Lyon Lucas, the Chief building next to it is the dispen- mist and educationist, Malcolm come back to Hyderabad and civilisations, art, culture, biochemistry and eventually pur- rejections Mohana decided to facing the sea. A description of Surgeon of Madras. He owned a sary; the upper floor consisting of What is interesting is the con- Adiseshiah, who was then the take care of me or get me mar- economics, political systems and sue a career in research. Even accept the position of a pool of- the hospital in that location sur- vast swathe encompassing all of a dining room, and two bed- tinued medical connection of the Deputy Director General of ried so that I will find my own society as a whole, in different here she had to face caste preju- ficer at the Council of Scientific vives in a work of Charles Curtis, what is today St. Andrew’s Kirk, rooms for the accommodation of property – from the residence of UNESCO. The Adiseshiahs felt security.” An arranged marriage countries of the world, would dices, as it had vitiated the entire and Industrial research (CSIR) Mohana – the research scientist. surgeon of the frigate Medea. a part of the Station and the lieutenant governor and the the Chief Surgeon of Madras it that they should introduce Babu saw her getting married to Babu, pave the way for Babu to later atmosphere of Tamil Nadu. attached to the Captain became the Naval Hospital and to the West under their parental ten years elder than her. It was conceive a mega project on simi- Thanks to her academic record, Srinivasamurthy Drug Research Titled An Account of the Diseases on the opposite side of dispenser. The under part of the * in India as they appeared in The Poonamallee High Road the of- third is allotted to sick officers after a brief tenure as gun guidance. On the very first day an alliance which would help her lar lines about Indian history. In Mohana got a Council of Scien- Institute in Madras (CSMDRI) – Published by Rupa Publications Pvt. Ltd. English Fleet and the Naval Hospi- fices of the Dina Thanthi and and the upper part to the resi- carriage factory became the they gave him a culture shock by realise her dream of becoming a fact an incident during this phase tific and Industrial Research a unit of Central Council for Re- tal at Madras in 1782 and 1783, it next to it the area now occupied dence of the captain or governor. Medical Supplies Depot! taking him to a striptease show successful scientist. However, of his life was to inspire him to fellowship for pursuing her search in Ayurveda and Siddha (To be concluded) 6 MADRAS MUSINGS June 16-30, 2018 ‘The man who came

(Quizmaster V.V. Ramanan’s questions are from May 16th looking for turtles’ to 31st. Questions 11 to 20 relate to Chennai and Tamil Nadu.) (Continued from turtles that came ashore to lay 1. What title was bestowed upon last fortnight) Prince Harry and Meghan Markle eggs. Later, a bunch of titanium after their wedding on May 19th? tags was sent by the Australian atish spent many months, National Parks and Wildlife 2. Which central Indian city over several years, studying emerged as the cleanest in the S Service for tagging hawksbills the hawksbill and green turtle Government’s Swachh Sur- on South Reef. In Vogelkopf, he vekshan 2018 carried in over nesting biology on tiny South tagged more than 700 leather- 4200 cities? Reef Island on the west coast of back turtles. There is no infor- 3. Which team won its third North Andaman. He described mation on tag returns from any straight UEFA Champions this island as “one of ten sites of these turtles. One reason may League title recently? most favoured by nesting be that subsequent night 4. Who won the Orange and [g]reen turtles in India”. Saw surveys (after Satish left) were Purple Caps in this season’s IPL? Bonny, a Forest Department inconsistent on Andamans, 5. A new finding has demons- Range Officer stationed on In- Nicobars and Irian Jaya. trated that a particular chemical terview Island, regularly risked Secondly, the English lettering is the fourth single element to his life ferrying supplies to which provides the return ad- have unique magnetic properties Satish on South Reef Island, dress means little to local at room temperatures. Which even during stormy monsoon people. Karen tribals have men- chemical? weather. Bonny deputed a staff 6. Gina Haspel has become the tioned finding tags on turtles member from his camp to assist they ate but not knowing the first woman head of which impor- Satish. Emoye spent a few days tant and critical agency in the significance of the metal, simply on South Reef, got fed up and A picture by Shantanu Krishnan of an Olive Ridley sea turtle hatchling right US? before being released to the sea. threw it away into the bush. wanted to return. Since the cur- 7. 16-year-old Shivangi Pathak After twenty years of doing from Haryana recently became rents were strong and Satish was an accomplished swimmer, access from the landward side mans, Satish and his compan- some of the first baseline sea the youngest Indian woman to turtle surveys in the country, achieve what endurance feat? Emoye requested him to go and you couldn’t even land a ions saw a pair of human foot- along with him. boat on the beach. This was prints emerging from the sea Satish retired to spend more 8. Zhao Kangmin, a 82-year-old time with his family. Soon Chinese archaeologist, passed Over the years, shark fisher- why it had remained protected and disappearing into the thereafter, an UNDP (United away recently. What is his most men regularly hauled in sharks for so long. Then the people vegetation. Satish had evalu- famous discovery? from this very channel. The sea from neighbouring areas started ated this island as a prime green Nations Development Pro- gram) – Wildlife Institute of 9. What dubious distinction has was rough, it was after all the taking tens of thousands of turtle nesting beach, and, been achieved by jeweller Birju monsoon season. Being a mod- leatherback eggs. People swam despite the others cautioning India project did a more exten- Kishore Salla as far as domestic est and understated narrator, ashore with jerry cans and sacks him of Jarawas (the hostile tribe sive survey of turtle nesting air travel is concerned? Satish rated his swimming skills and floated the eggs back to who routinely finished off tres- beaches. But since then, the 10. Name the scheme launched as “below par” and claimed that boats. passers with arrows), Satish 2004 tsunami has changed the by the Union HRD Ministry for his snorkeling flippers gave him However, Satish found a way swam ashore. His companions profile of many Andaman and providing education from pre- confidence. To keep warm dur- to keep in touch. He would Nicobar beaches and we don’t school till Class 12? ing the more than two swim 100 m out to a passing yet know where new beaches * * * kilometre swim, he wore two longboat that was headed to are forming, or how the turtles 11. Name the two players in the shirts. Emoye rested frequently Sorong, and hand his letters to ● by have responded to this change. CSK squad who won their fourth Karthik Shanker We desperately need a new IPL title? on Satish to catch his breath someone on board with enough and together the two of them currency for stamps. There was Satish Bhaskar to continue the 12.. Name the legendary artist re- work. sponsible for bringing to life swam across the channel. one boat every 20 to 30 days. By Bakkiyam Ramaswami’s famous The duos set out across the late August 1985, he had tagged Satish now lives in Goa with creations Appusami and Sita island to the forest camp. Half about 700 leatherbacks almost watched in horror as he fol- his wife Brenda (who was by the Paati. way, a bull elephant in musth single-handedly. lowed the footprints into the way, the Snake Park and Croc 13. Which two temples in trumpeted his warning from just Rather uncharacteristically, forest. While his friends feared Bank’s secretary for many Chennai that share the same tank 30 metres away and started to Satish never wrote up his report the worst, he emerged from an- years!) and their three children and ratha were/are called chase them. The two men ran for WWF-Indonesia. I have no other side crouching behind a (Nyla, Kyle and Sandhya). Pattinam Temples? for their lives. Already explanation why this happened green turtle carapace, holding it Satish is the man who kicked 14. What do the initials S.G. in exhausted from their long and nor did we ever discuss this. like a shield. The fearsome sea turtle conservation in India the name of the famous singer arduous swim, they couldn’t After a year had passed and tribals never showed themselves into high gear. There’s a strong S.G. Kittappa stand for? continue running and the there was no sign of the report, and Satish returned safely. lesson in all this and an inspira- 15. What famous business icon of elephant showed no signs of I wrote the report in his name. Local intelligence was that tion to young naturalists who Chennai started functioning from relenting. Remembering a Ken- Sadly, the 13,360 nests that the Galathea River, Great wonder, “What can I do to 5, Stringer Street, Georgetown? neth Anderson story, Satish he recorded in 1984 was prob- Nicobar, had a lot of crocodiles. help?” Satish’s single-minded 16. Which famous brand was threw his shirt down while con- ably the highest ever in recent Once while lying asleep on a quest for sea turtles in his quiet, started by R.G. Chandramohan often unorthodox way, set the in 1970? tinuing to run and was gratified years. Ever since then, the aver- beach on Trinkat Island, to hear the pachyderm squeal- age number of nests has Nicobars, he woke up to a rus- stage for the major conservation 17. What does the recently re- efforts being made today. Here’s leased book Who Owns that Song? ing with rage moments later. hovered way down around tling noise. He found a young by A.R. Venkatachalapathy, deal With the animal distracted, the 3200. And this has resulted in croc looking at him through the a prime example of how one with? men could finally stumble yet another ‘Satish myth’ – the mosquito net. In mock serious- person’s passion for an animal 18. Where in Chennai can you onwards to the forest camp. local people believe that Satish ness, he later wrote, “I’m over- and its habitat can help make see places named Wild Garden, In the mid 1980’s WWF- tagged the female leatherbacks looking it this time but if the the difference between survival Bloom, Upstairs and The Folly? Indonesia contracted Satish to with metal tags, and using a gi- crocs that wake me get any and extinction. – (Courtesy: 19. Mayila Pillai, Sevalai, study the huge, intensely ant magnet drew all the turtles bigger I’m headed back to Indian Ocean Turtle Newsletter) Santhana Pillai are all types of exploited leatherback sea turtle to his country! The local elders Madras.” (Inputs from Aaron Savio which indigenous animal? rookeries on the beaches of the have refused to permit any more Several older Nicobarese Lobo, Allen Vaughan, Arjun 20. What did Mahendra Kumar Vogelkopf, the western-most tagging of turtles on this beach. remember “the man who came Sivasundar, Atma Reddy, start at in 2015 peninsula of the island of New In 1993, while chugging past looking for turtles” even today, Manish Chandi, Manjula that has become widespread now Guinea, in Irian Jaya. This was Flat Island, a small spit of land many years after his last visit. Tiwari, K. Munnuswamy, Nina in the city? a logistically tough place to off the west coast of the Jarawa Satish notched identification and Ram Menon, and Shekar (Answers on page 10) work. First of all, there was no Tribal Reserve in the Anda- marks on the carapaces of Dattatri.) June 16-30, 2018 MADRAS MUSINGS 7 A virtual walk through Sowcarpet

owcarpet is often described 1977. The story was set in the Sas Chennai’s “Little North Gujarati locality close to the India,” in tourist book style. Ekambareswarar Temple on Bustling and bazaar-like, this Mint Street. The temple, which old neighbourhood is not too far came up in the 1680s, had been from the city’s iconic Central raised by Alanganatha Pillai, a Station. The area has the city’s dubash with the British East In- first Jain temples, shops, and dia Company. “Like the city’s eateries offering north Indian other famous temples, this one foods and delicacies. Its lanes appears quite ordinary to its are narrow, except for Mint habitués, and magnificent to in- Street, and the area is best ex- frequent visitors,” Dilip Kumar plored by foot. wrote of the historic temple and The sowcar in the name of set the stage for his early stories. this neighbourhood comes from In this neighbourhood called the Hindi word sahukaar, mer- Ghosh’s inspiration. Ekambareswarar Agraharam, chant or native banker, which you will run into stereotype- now refers to a money-lender. and, later, as a young man look- shattering characters. Not all In Madras Rediscovered, city ing for work in the city. the Gujaratis here are saits or chronicler S. Muthiah writes Back in the 1970s, for any- wealthy merchants with money that the diamond and silk mer- one with literary ambitions in to hoard (or lend) – some even chants, who gave Sowcarpet its Tamil, Madras was the place to hold ordinary government jobs. name, arrived in the 18th Cen- be. In which other Indian city True, Mittu Mama, a 70-year- tury from Gujarat. Other set- would a regional language old foodie, a protagonist of tlers, such as the Marwaris from writer when asked “Have you three excellent stories, was once Rajasthan, arrived later. But the read Jean Paul Sartre?” come a well-to-do businessman. Even original Gujarati immigrants back with, “Why don’t you ask in his newly-straitened circum- who refuses to pay for the treat- Chennai-themed anthologies, from Saurasthra came in the Sartre if he has read me?” (This stances, he displays an appetite ment of the dhobi’s donkey The Unhurried City and Madras 17th Century via Madurai and was the Tamil writer D. for life, a heart-warming exu- which broke the possibly fatal on your Mind. Tirunelveli where they had al- Jayakanthan, Dilip Kumar’s berance. Gangu Patti is not an fall of his kite-flying 8-year-old If you do choose to visit ready established themselves as early idol with whose writing he average religious old woman, son. Suri should “reason” with Sowcarpet after reading the sto- a weaving community. grew disillusioned later.) though she can prescribe rituals Jeevanlal, you begin to think. ries, don’t look for Dilip These are interesting facts, At the age of 28, Dilip for anything which affects a The stories give you a sense of Kumar’s residence there. The no doubt, but the atmosphere Kumar moved to the metropo- woman’s domestic bliss. The being inter-connected though, 67-year-old litterateur lives, and the soul of a place are often lis where he’d make his mark as well-read widow, with her pi- except for Mittu Mama, no with his wife Ambika in a flat in better understood through fic- a writer, translator-promoter, quant talk, is beloved of the character appears in more than a shaded cul-de-sac in tion. If you want to know more and exporter of modern Tamil many younger residents in the one story. Mandaveli. Avid readers, they about the life of the Gujarati literature. Today, he is an ac- building who seek her counsel. Dilip Kumar’s realistic fic- seem to be adherents of the immigrants, read the short sto- knowledged authority on con- Even some minor characters tion is never dispiriting – so credo of simple living, high ries written by renowned Tamil temporary Tamil fiction, sought in the Agraharam are well- don’t be surprised if you’ll find thinking. Their drawing room is author Dilip Kumar. He was after by universities abroad for etched. For instance, take Suri, yourself guffawing right in the quiet, library-like. Overall, the born in a Gujarati-speaking his expertise on the topic. the well-dressed loafer and bi- middle of an insightful short ambience here is quite different family in Coimbatore, but his The author’s improbable lit- lingual curser. He metes out jus- story. His works have been from the downtown maternal uncle lived in erary career took off when an tice with his stick – whether the translated into many Indian neighbourhood which inspired Sowcarpet. He knew what early work, Theervu, (The Solu- wrong-doer is Tamil or Gujarati and European languages. You’ll the author’s first bout of cre- made the neighbourhood tick. tion) won The Best Tamil Short makes no difference to him. also find a Sowcarpet-based ativity. He’d visited the place as a boy, Story of the Year award for There is the miserly Jeevanlal short story in each of the two –Vijaysree Venkatraman

All photos by G.V. Balasubramaniam. 8 MADRAS MUSINGS June 16-30, 2018 Museum’s wealth of inscriptions

isitors to the Madras Gov- diers, supply of boiled rice, wa- ties to officers... and free from Vernment Museum on Pan- ter pots, cots and dwellings...’ troubles by officials’! The theon Road, Egmore, usually Transgressors of this edict were Hirahadagalli copper-plate in- make a beeline for the Bronze liable to bodily punishment, scription also goes on to give a sculpture section which has on says the inscription. list of officers, which informa- display some of the most mag- Another set of five copper- tion has been most useful to his- nificent metal images ever cre- plates, dated c.338 C.E. also torians such as Dr. ated. These visitors also go to strung together on a copper C. Minakshi, the famous the gallery which houses stone ring, has a similar seal. They scholar of Pallava history, in sculptures, but hardly anyone were bought from Chennappa, documenting administrative life takes the effort to go to a sepa- a merchant in Hirahadagalli in the Pallava times. rate section which has a superb (Bellary District) and deposited Another important Pallava collection of copper-plate in- in the museum by the Archaeo- epigraph on display is the scriptions which date from the logical Survey of India. This too Kuram copper-plate inscrip- The Pallava copper-plate inscriptions. 4th Century C.E. right down to is in the Prakrit language and in tion, which historians and ar- British times. the Brahmi script used by the chaeologists are very familiar Grantha script, and the second a large tank at Paramesh- Those who do visit this gal- early Pallavas. This inscription with. This record is from his- half in Tamil. The lineage of the waramangalam (near Chen- lery have their eyes glued to the is dated the fifth day in the sixth toric Kuram village, close to Pallavas, especially the many galpattu) are also detailed here. huge Chola copper-plate fortnight of the rainy season in Kanchipuram, which also has a victories of Narasimhavarman I These early copper plate in- records, quite awed by their (Mamalla) against the scriptions of the Pallavas go to sheer size. But lovers of history ● by Chalukya ruler Pulakesin and show that Prakrit was widely and heritage must pay attention Dr. Chithra Madhavan also the Cholas, Pandyas and used in the Tamil country, and to the oldest inscriptions here, others, given in detail in this was perhaps even the court lan- which are of the Pallava times. record are pieces of information guage and that the Brahmi The earliest copper-plate epi- which have been incorporated script, usually associated only graph is the Maidavolu record the eighth year (possibly the Siva temple of Pallava times. into books by scholars on South with the inscriptions of Asoka, which has been dated c.305 eighth year of King Bought from the Dharmakarta Indian history. The donation of the Mauryan Emperor, was also C.E. The eight copper plates are Sivaskandavarman’s reign) – of this place, it consists of seven a village named Paramesh- used extensively in the South. strung on a copper ring held to- what meticulous documenta- copper plates of which the first, waramangala to the Siva temple Also to be noted is the impor- gether with an elliptical copper tion! Again issued from the fifth and sixth plates are worn in Kuram and to scholars who tant fact that there was a keen seal which has the figure of a same Kanchipura, it mentions out and half of the seventh studied the Vedas is the object sense of documenting informa- bull and the name that Sivaskandavarman, who plate is missing. The copper ring of this historical document tion in ancient India – the ‘Sivaskandavarmanah’ etched was a performer of sacrifices has the bull emblem, the moon which lists the break up of the minute details of place of issue, on it but which is partially worn such as the famed and other symbols. Belonging to land into shares allocated for time, and a multitude of other out. The bull was the famous Ashwamedha, confirmed and the reign of King Parameshwara various purposes. The different data point to this. emblem of the Pallavas and the enlarged a grant of garden-land Varman I Pallava of the 7th taxes payable to the govern- The challenge lies in getting name is of the Pallava king of to specified scholars declaring it Century C.E., this bilingual in- ment and water management in across the importance of these the 4th Century C.E. Most visi- ‘free from supplying food, water, scription is half in Sanskrit, the village by way of a channel inscriptions to visitors to the tors peering at this inscription, firewood and other commodi- etched in the famed Pallava dug from River Palar leading to museum. trying to read it, will be bewil- dered as they will understand neither the language, which is Prakrit nor the script, which is Brahmi. This set of copper-plates Bharati: Inspired by Pondicherry found in 1899 by a man who was digging a field in an aban- doned village north of Subramania Bharati in Brit- which was released in the pres- heavily in his business and in Maidavolu in Guntur District, ish and French India by J.B.P. ence of Mannar Mannan, son of 1898 passed away. Andhra Pradesh, were subse- More, Palaniappa Brothers. Bharatidasan, at Puthuvai Bharati’s foray into writing quently presented to the mu- Price Rs. 410. Thamizh Sangam. about national politics began seum by Maidavolu French Pondicherry was the The author states that he when G. Subramania Iyer Jayarammaya, the owner. The most productive place for had relied heavily on the works started Swadesamitran. Bharati contents of this important in- Bharati’s literary and revolu- of Bharati scholars like Seeni was given his chance when he scription were published in tionary creations, asserts the Viswanathan, Ra.Aa. moved from Madurai where he Epigraphia Indica Volume VI by author of a new book on Padmanabhan, P. Thooran and was teaching, to Madras. With E. Hultzch, a German Bharati, Prof. J.B.P. More. “If he Pe.Su. Mani, apart from the his poem Vangamai Vaazhiyave Indologist and first Chief Epig- had not penned Kuyil Paatu, books of Chellamma Bharati, (Long live Bengal) at a meeting raphist when the Epigraphy De- Panchali Sabhadam and Kannan Thangammal and Sakuntala, as on the Marina, he became a partment of the Archaeological Paatu in Pondicherry, he would well as, S. Vijaya Bharati, staunch votary of Indian na- Survey of India was first formed never have become the grand-daughter. Prof. More ac- tionalism. Bharati’s fiery writ- in 1886. Mahakavi,” he says. The focus knowledges the help of ings caught the imagination of This informative record of the author, is however, Sengamala Thayar, Director of Tamil readers. During his ear- mentions that an order by King Bharati’s political and social Bharati Memorial Centre, lier years, Bharati had been Sivaskandavarman was issued views. It is because of the influ- Pondicherry, in locating right strongly influenced by Bankim from Kanchipura, which many ence exerted by French values material. Chandra and Tilak. scholars have identified as the in his Pondicherry days that he Within the short span of 39 In Madras, V.O. Chidam- present-day Kanchipuram, and rose above narrow nationalism years that he lived (1882-1921), tributed during his stay in baram met Bharati and they be- some have identified as a place to emerge as a genuine Indian Bharati’s contribution to the Thamizhnadu. came friends. VOC had the en- in Andhra Pradesh. This royal Tamil patriot. country was enormous, as this Poems by Bharati astonished couragement of Bharati and G. order was addressed to the The seven chapters in the was a crucial period in modern everyone, including poets and Subramania Iyer in founding king’s official at Dhannakada book cover Bharati’s life, his pa- Indian and South Indian his- vidwans and the Ettayapuram the Swadeshi Steam Navigation (present-day Amaravati) con- triotism, spirituality and phi- tory. He evolved into a Raja conferred on him the title Company. Bharati called ferring the gift of a village losophy in an elaborate narra- swadeshi nationalist and Tamil of ‘Bharati’ in 1893 when he Chidambaram ‘Desa Simham,’ Viripura to two scholars. It tive. The book itself is an ex- patriot. According to the au- was hardly 12 years old! He considering him as a great mentions that the land thus do- pansion of his booklet in French thor, the body of works Bharati married Chellammal when he leader of the nation. “After see- nated, was exempted from ‘dig- for the Franco-Thamizh Cul- achieved in Pondicherry was was just 15. In the meanwhile, ing Chidambaram in prison and ging for salt, entrance of sol- tural Association in Paris, much more than what he con- his father Chinnasamy Iyer lost (Continued on page 10) June 16-30, 2018 MADRAS MUSINGS 9

● Excerpted from Hari Baskaran’s From Lorrypuram Those Bloomin’ Anglos [email protected] to Madhavaram

(Continued from last to see the institutions that were drove into Mariadas Street the family was strong and they ciety”. This sentiment is ech- fortnight) an integral part of my youth; the where Daphne Sharman, a had the ability to lead a com- oed by many Anglo-Indians I Parsi Club, the Mada Dolorosa classmate from class 1 to 4, and fortable life in India. The soaked in the familiar land spoke to. They see increasing Church, St. Kevin’s School and her family live. They are one of family’s decision may have hung marks as I drove down North evidence of Anglo-Indians I the convent where the nuns just a few Anglo-Indian families in the balance for a while, but Beach Road in Chennai on my competing successfully and do- used to live, the Parsi Fire left in . Daphne had with the situation having way to meet the last of the ing well in various fields. Anglo-Indian families in Ruth had this to say of the Royapuram. They remained time when almost every house amidst ruins of the Royapuram in Royapuram was an Anglo-In- of old, refusing to migrate or dian home. There were family leave. My heart sank when I members living a few houses saw the iconic SBI building in away and across the street. It ruins and falling apart. How was natural for the community could this ever happen? I thought. to remain cloistered and cling to Our house in the early 1950s, their way of living. Now there with its large compound and are just a few Anglo-Indian jamoon trees, towards the end families in the whole of of the Kalmandapam Road, had Royapuram. My young children been demolished and replaced are growing up in the midst of by awful looking flats. I never other communities and seek to expected to see the old house; I dress and speak like them. We just wanted to stop there are not worried that they will awhile. The emotions of a lose their Anglo-Indian iden- person’s early days are difficult tity. The children in school to fathom. The old gives way to tend to speak in Tamil and the new but ever so often the learn Tamil mandatorily. They new has so little charm. also watch Tamil or Hindi TV Hartland, the home where I serials. grew up, on West Mada Church Today Royapuram is no Street, had also been demol- longer an Anglo-Indian town A Madhavaram street reminiscent of the Royapuram days. ished after we had sold it to a and residents follow their own builder in the late 1980s. I temple and the Sistes of Char- demolished their 125-year-old changed for the better in India customs and practices. All of stopped the car and got down ity Home further down the house in 2011 and built a three- and job opportunities as well as them tend to celebrate festivals across community lines, Ruth for a while. I could see in my street. My mind was abuzz with stories house in its place. The the potential to earn a decent mind’s eye the cemented court- fond memories of the past. But memories of the old house with wage being quite good, the fam- says. In August 2016, Ruth and yard where we used to play ten- this was a bygone era, only its front verandah and tall pil- ily voted to stay. I say it was a nis ball cricket and the ring of memories remain. lars are now only captured in family vote as the children too family finally moved from Royapuram to Madhavaram. Ashoka trees that I loved to The Anglo-Indians had long the old photographs she has re- were clear that they would not Attachments to places grow on clamber upon and read or study gone from Royapuram and so tained along with some exquis- choose to migrate. in solitude. I walked down had the Parsis as well as most of ite memorabilia. She brought Sharon works in the World you and in spite of the pollu- tion, congestion and the men- West Mada Church Street keen the families we grew up with. I out from the storeroom an an- Bank in the HR Department cient cardboard box, forgotten and has a bachelor’s degree in ace of lorries, Ruth refused to shift. She felt that and unattended. In it was this literature from Stella Maris Col- Madhavaram was the back of beautifully maintained marriage lege. Clinton graduated from proposal dated 1926 along with the Government College of beyond and she didn’t want to go to such an isolated place. CHENNAI HERITAGE a formal letter of acceptance. Fine Arts and, equipped with a Many families would have simi- course in graphics design, cur- When finally she did agree to move, she found it heavenly. No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, lar letters of a beautiful Anglo- rently works for a graphics de- Indian tradition tucked away in sign firm. Sharon has never ex- As Ruth says, “Madhavaram is far less polluted and we have , Chennai 600 014 a treasure chest. perienced negative stereotyping the luxury of an independent The buzz of conversation as an Anglo-Indian. Clinton I am already on your mailing list (Mailing List and jokes went on as we sat too is very comfortable with his place to stay with more play area and space for the kids and No...... ) / I have just seen Madras Musings around the lunch table. friends circle and is bemused Daphne and Sharon had when asked if he misses the us to stretch around. There are and would like to receive it hereafter. many more Anglo-Indian fami- cooked a sumptous meal of co- company of Anglo-Indian lies here. The New Year’s ● I/We enclose cheque/demand draft/money order for conut milk rice, chicken friends. Daphe claims to be a bit Rs. 100 (Rupees One hundred) payable to CHENNAI vindaloo, Andhra chicken, of a recluse not given to an ac- dance at St. Sebastians’s church hall was strictly for Anglo-Indi- HERITAGE, MADRAS, as subscription to Madras meat and potato cutlets and an tive social life and does not miss Musings for the year 2018-19. onion and ginger paste chutney. the Anglo-Indian dane and jam ans only. It was lovely to be part of something like that after To cool our palates, we had sessions. She says tongue in ● ages”. As token of my support for the causes of heritage, grape juice and the dessert was cheek, “If all the Anglo-Indians environment and a better city that Madras Musings mango ice cream, both go away then to whom can the Madhavaram is the new espouses, I send Chennai Heritage an additional Royapuram. Back in the 1980s Rs...... Kunhiraman’s favourites. It visiting Anglo-Indians boast was a thoughtful touch by about the glorious land of op- and 90s, Anglo-Indians from (Rupees ...... ) Royapuram and other parts of Please keep/put me on your mailing list. Daphne. portunity they have migrated We talked about the Anglo- to”. In keeping with the chang- Chennai found Madhavaram an ideal location to settle in as Name : ...... Indian families migrating to ing times, Sharon has married a land values were still resonable Australia and other countries. Malayali from Cochin...... With the faintest of resignation Ruth Williams says, “Anglo- and many could afford to invest in houses. But, many Anglo-In- Address: ...... in her voice, Daphe said, Indians in India today are will- “When you have family respon- ing to compete with everyone dians who bought houses in Madhavaram have since mi- ...... sibilities and have to take care else for jobs. Reservations are a grated to Australia; while some ...... of elderly family members, you thing of the past. We are no never think of going away and longer laid back and now study have sold their houses, others have retained them and given All cheques to ‘Chennai Heritage’. DD/Cheque should be leaving them alone to fend for beyond high school and make themselves in a home for the the most of the opportunities. them out on rent or leased it out sent by Speed Post only. for fixed periods of time. aged”. With conviction, she We too now aspire to own adds that the financial health of houses and make a mark in so- (Continued on page 10) 10 MADRAS MUSINGS June 16-30, 2018 From Lorrypuram Bharati in Pondicherry

to Madhavaram (Continued from page 8) And he continued to hail the equality and competition were French and the French revolu- compatible values. after coming to know of (Continued from page 9) loading and unloading created tion and portrayed France as He affirmed this in his philo- Srinivasa Iyengar’s arrest, a major crisis of iron ore pollu- the mother of democracy and sophical work Gnanaratham, Bharati feared the Government Over 30 Anglo-Indian fami- tion. This led the upper middle freedom. says More. He also states that might arrest him at any time. lies still live in Madhavaram class and the affluent to move When patriotic and political Bharati was very harsh at times So when Srinivasachari advised and the morning and evening to other parts of Chennai or the activities had almost ceased, he towards the proponents of the him to go to Pondicherry, services at the church have a rest of the country. In their ibstead of turning to religion Aryan-Dravidian theory. Bharati did not hesitate a mo- high presence of the commu- wake came the traders and the and spirituality, turned to social This book is a veritable trea- ment,” writes the author, re- nity. The broader Christian real estate agents with their reform and literature. Bharati sure of incidents from the colo- vealing the circumstances that community, which includes penchant for demolishing old believed that the caste system nial past of British India and forced Bharati to move to Tamil Christians besides the houses and building multiple in India would be swept aside. French India, while tracing the Pondicherry. Anglo-Indians. meets every dwelling units where once stood “He even thought that caste as genesis of the nationalistic sen- Not knowing anything other month at each other’s house by proud bungalows. expounded in Gita probably ex- timents of Subramania Bharati. than writing, Bharati faced a rotation in each area. At isted in the past and had dete- What makes it interesting read- After a high court order ban- tough time in Pondicherry. Christmas, each area is abuzz riorated into a caste system de- ing are these incidents, several ning the handling of dusty pol- However, he familiarised him- with activities and carol singing. termined by parentage.” He felt nuggets, and numerous asser- lutants such as iron ore and coal self with French culture and Ruth’s joy knew no bounds that men cannot be equal on tions. by the Port Trust at the civilisation. He not only learnt when after years she witnessed the basis of character and work. Royapuram harbour, the iron French but also read revolu- – Charukesi a bandwagon going around the Bharati did not think that streets of Madhavaram distrib- ore handling facilities were tionary writers and philoso- uting gifts to the children. shifted to the Kamarajar Port at phers. The French slogan There is little need to moan in 2011. Pollution lev- ‘Liberty, Equality Fraternity’ the loss of the lifestyle of yester- els at Royapuram are lower now appeared on the title of the Answers to Quiz year, but there is definitely a but nowhere near what is journal India. desired. 1. Duke and Duchess of Sussex; 2. Indore; 3. Real Madrid; 4. Kane need to preserve the heritage of “Right from the beginning,” Williamson (Sunrisers Hyderabad) and Andre Tye (Kings XI Punjab); 5. writes More, “he started singing the past and it is sad that in With the modernisation of Ruthenium; 6. CIA; 7. Scale Mt. Everest; 8. The Terracotta Warriors; 9. the praise of the French and Royapuram there is no heritage the port facilities, many He has become the first person to be put on the ‘National No Fly List’ by their high values and ideals.” site that keeps alive the memory labourers lost their jobs leading the Directorate General of Civil Aviation (DGCA); 10. Samagra Shiksha Srinivasachari, Bharati and his which will have three components namely Sarva Shiksha of the Anglo-Indians. It is to a search for alternate sources associates in Pondicherry had Abhiyan,Rashtriya Madhyamik Shiksha Abhiyan and Teacher Training. heart-wrenching to see the deg- of livelihood. They moved to decided to project Aravinda * * * radation in the quality of life, trades relating to logistics and Ghose as the leader of the na- 11. Harbhajan Singh and Ambati Rayudu; 12. Jeyaraj; 13. Chenna the loss of the higher values of the food grain polishing indus- tionalists. Bharati developed Kesava Perumal and Chenna Malleeswarar temples in Georgetown; 14. good living to material craving tries that came up along the contacts with revolutionaries Shencottah Ganagadhara; 15. Hoe & Co.; 16. Arun ice-creams; 17. Own- and the disregard as well as major roads. The expanded in- ership of Subramania Bharati’s works; 18. Amethyst; 19. The Kanni dog and radicals and gave promi- irreverence for the heritage of dustrial activity around the breed; 20. Read and Return Free Library. nence to them in his paper. The the past. harbour and the growth of the presence of Bharati and his The extension of the industrial belt north of friends in Pondicherry pulled harbour and the creation of an Royapuram led to a steep in- Aravinda Ghose from turbulent iron ore handling port are ex- crease in lorry traffic. The din Calcutta to peaceful MADRAS MUSINGS ON THE WEB amples of the deterioration of of speeding lorries with blaring Pondicherry, and thus Pondi- the quality of life. It impacts the horns ran through the night. To reach out to as many readers as possible who share cherry became the stronghold demographics of Royapuram During the day it was common our keen interest in Madras that is Chennai, and in re- of nationalists, according to almost as much as the migration to see row on row of lorries More. sponse to requests from many well-wishers – especially of the Anglo-Indians. This de- parked at vantage points; the There was strict watch of na- from outside Chennai and abroad who receive their velopment completely wiped compound wall of St. Peter’s tionalists in Pondicherry. postal copies very late – for an online edition Madras out the beach. The ideal set- Church is one such. “Bharati deliberately cultivated ting for social conference had Royapuram has inexorably be- Musings is now on the web at www.madrasmusings.com the friendship of some French been consumed by the march of come Lorrypuram. industrialisation. The iron ore politicians,” says the author. – THE EDITOR

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PublishedPublished by S. by Muthiah S. Muthiah for Chennai for ëChennai Heritage, Heritageí, No. 9, Cathedral 260-A, TTK Road, Road, Chennai Chennai 600 600086, 018printed and by printed Anu Varghese by T J George at Lokavani at Lokavani-Hallmark Southern Printers Press Pvt. Ltd., Pvt. 122,Ltd., Greames 122, Greams Road, Road, Chennai Chennai 600 006, 600 edited 006. Editedby S. Muthiah,by S. MUTHIAH 2-F, 1st. Cross Street, Vijayaraghava Road, T’Nagar, Chennai 600 017, and owned by Chennai Heritage, Regd. Office No. 9, Cathedral Road, Chennai 600 086.