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Vol. XXIV No. 9 MUSINGS August 16-31, 2014 Vanishing water Madras Landmarks (By The Editor) – 50 years ago here can be no denying that the Muttukadu Estuary is one of the most scenic spots near our city. TBut all that may not be for long, given the rampant construction activity going on in its vicinity. But what is worse is the unchecked extraction of groundwater by all the establishments in the area – chiefly IT companies, hotels and housing complexes. This is drying up one of the chief aquifers of the city and it does not bode well for a metro that is perennially water-starved. It is not as though we lack the laws. Since the 1980s, construction had been banned in this area, chiefly to protect the groundwater, which could be drawn by the city in times of need. This ban was, however, lifted in the last decade, mainly to cater to the demand of the IT sector. The considered opinion in the 1990s was that with rainwater harvesting schemes in place within Chennai, it might no longer need the water from Muttukadu. That has, however, proved to be a false assumption, for successively weak monsoons and the lack of proper implementation of rainwater harvesting have ensured that the city is once again searching for fresh sources of the precious liquid. As is usual when such bans are lifted, the stakeholders involved were all consulted. The qualifying remarks of Metrowater were a classic instance of bureaucratese: “Any major developments in the proposed tourism corridor should take into account the unique hydrological ecosystem of the area.” With that mild caution in place, everything was set for rapid ‘development’ of the estuary and its surroundings, with the present result. Groundwater extraction, however, is not the only issue. Dis- posal of sewage is a bigger problem. Many of the establishments here are draining their effluents into G Today it is a nondescript structure that houses the showroom of V.G. the estuary. It may not be long before the water body begins to resemble the Cooum. Experts are of Panneerdas & Co, the company that retails white goods and introduced hire the view that the groundwater in the area has already been irreversibly contaminated. purchase. But in its time, Victory House, Mount Road, was a landmark The Chennai Metropolitan Development Authority and the Corporation of Chennai are being address. Interestingly, the building’s beginnings go back to another merchandiser blamed for the present situa- of consumer products. In the 1890s, Whiteaway, Laidlaw’s, ‘Furnishers and tion. A majority of the struc- General Drapers’, were as much into textile retailing and tailoring as they were tures – be they hotels, offices, into selling a whole range of household requirements. The firm had branches residences or amusement parks throughout British India as well as in the capitals of many of the other British – in the area have been built in colonies in the East. As to who designed the structure is not clear, but it did bear violation of construction codes features of the work of William Pogson who specialised in buildings for retail and CRZ regulations. The two establishments in the city. High Court documents of the 1980s state that the regulatory bodies have chosen building was more than 100 years old at that time, thereby giving an idea about to turn a blind eye, despite be- its date of construction. ing armed with some of the Founded by Thomas Whiteaway and (later Sir) Robert Laidlaw, the firm’s strictest laws in the land. As we best years were till the Great War. It was also known as ‘Right away and paid have said in some of our earlier for’ because of its no credit policy. By the 1940s, with independence in the air, articles connected with building the firm was closing its Indian operations though it continued in the Far East till violations, the lethargy of our the 1960s. The Madras premises were sold to the Swadesamitran – the leading civic body when it comes to en- Tamil daily of the time. The paper was begun in 1882 as a weekly by forcing its rules is amazing. We G. Subramania Iyer, who had six years earlier co-founded The Hindu. After have already seen the kind of leaving The Hindu he was to focus on the Swadesamitran, making it a daily in havoc this has caused within 1899. After him, A. Rangaswami Iyengar of The Hindu was to also serve as the city in places like T’Nagar. editor of the Swadesamitran. It was during his time that Subramania Bharati The same situation appears to joined the paper for a second and short tenure, ending with his death in 1921. In be developing in the outskirts 1928, C.R. Srinivasan took over as editor and proprietor of the paper and it was also. under him that the paper scaled great heights in circulation. With so many buildings Srinivasan purchased the Whiteaway and Laidlaw property after World War coming up, the demand for wa- II and named it Victory House. Some great names in Tamil writing were to ter has skyrocketed in the area. work in the building for the paper. Following Srinivasan’s death in 1962 and the This has resulted in more and change in the tastes of the reading public, the paper declined. In 1977, the paper more borewells being installed, was sold to the Silver Jubilee of Independence Trust controlled by the Congress each with increasing depth to Party. It lingered on till 1985 when it stopped publication. It had since then tap the water that is fast reced- changed hands as a paper and there were sporadic attempts to revive it. During ing. Many of the housing com- the 1980s, a fire broke out in the building, destroying much of the newspaper plexes have more than one archive and nearly all the photo negatives – a 100-year history was lost in one borewell and some of these are evening. drying up within one or two years of drilling – an indication Victory House was rented out to various commercial establishments from of how fast we are using up the the 1970s. The ground floor, all 7000 sq ft of it, was occupied by VGP who water. These complexes have in moved in in 1971. In the early 1980s, the then owners decided that the building turn begun depending on water needed to be demolished and rebuilt, the existing structure showing signs of tankers, which in turn are weakness. All tenants barring VGP vacated and litigation followed which ended in 1987 with the High Court of Madras ordering the tenant to vacate. What th bringing in water from wells dug Celebrate the 375 birthday of MADras! followed next was VGP purchasing the entire property and constructing a (Continued on page 12) modern showroom-cum-office space in place of old Victory House. CMYK 2 MADRAS MUSINGS August 16-31, 2014 Slim-don’t-fits here comes a day in the been a second home to Julius went ahead with other work. Tlife of The Man from Ma- Ceasar, for he, as you remem- A good two hours later, he had dras Musings when he realises ber, wanted to have men a call. The TV anchor was on that he has nothing to wear. around him that were fat. The the phone apologising pro- This, by the way, is every other same applies to the women of fusely. Her cameraman had day, for MMM has just one Chennai as well, but of that gone out for lunch and just re- weakness – he likes his MMM will not speak, for he, turned and so could they come Pelicans nesting at Nelpattu. clothes, in which aspect he does not bandy about with then? They were, she also markedly differs from the women unnecessarily. added, just around the corner Chief, who chugs along main- And, so, given this tendency from MMM’s office. MMM taining that it is comfort that to put on weight, no doubt due secretly wondered as to why counts and not style. Not that to widespread availability of this call could not have been Revitalising the Chief does not turn out in junk food and increasingly sed- made when the cameraman the best of Savile Row when he entary lifestyles, how are fellow did not return at the appointed wants to. It was only the other Chennaiites coping with these hour but he held his counsel day that MMM saw the Chief drain pipe trousers and slim fit and agreed that they could conservation at a Consulate reception all shirts? Very well, apparently, come immediately. suited and booted and being for even as MMM stood and The corner that they had to the life and soul of the party. watched, several outsized men negotiate to reach MMM’s But to get back to the sad grabbed several of the trousers office was evidently one of traditions tale of MMM’s apparel – and and shirts and wheezed their those long ones, for, after half how sad it is. Knowing MMM’s way to the payment counter. an hour or so, there was no elivering the Pupul Jayakar Lecture hosted by INTACH in propensity to lament about the MMM wonders as to how they sign of anyone even remotely DDelhi, Prof. Madhav Gadgil said, “A community involves not lack of suitable wear, his good can fit in. He assumes that they resembling a cameraman who only human population but other beneficient elements such as hills lady periodically hauls him buy two of each and then gets had fed well or a TV anchor and rivers, woods and trees, birds and monkeys, and according such upto the various malls that dot them stitched into one. who was eager to get MMM’s the city. views on heritage. beings respect, even veneration.” There, under her eagle eye, Indian Stretchable It was late in the evening, “India’s rich heritage of conservation traditions evolved in a MMM tries out various shirts long after the Ra in the heav- society that instinctively respected nature in India. Let us not for- and trousers, only to have her Time ens has set, that the trio – in- get that,” he said. reject most of them. After ome Madras Week and terviewer, cameraman and Prof. Gadgil pointed out that “scientific practices of nature con- having worn everyone down CThe Man from Madras general helper – trooped in. servation in no way represent a real advance over the traditional during the course of a longish Musings suddenly begins get- They were ushered in to a con- folk-knowledge- based systems. All that has happened is that the afternoon, MMM and good ting phone calls from newspa- ference area where they were spatial scale of efforts to conserve biodiversity has changed along lady depart, having made some per correspondents, radio jock- asked to set up their equip- with enlargement of resource catchments or footprints of modern purchases. eys and TV anchors. MMM is ment and then call MMM But nothing in Chennai can generally quite happy to talk to when ready. A good 45 min- societies.” He felt our scientific understanding of complex ecologi- proceed smoothly and one of them but there is one variety utes later, the all-clear was cal systems is in fact still very limited. At present there are no uni- these is the size of these that gets his goat – the one that blown and the cry went versal laws to guide ecological management comparable to the laws clothes. They are no longer does not do its homework be- around for MMM to duly of physics and chemistry, for example, that enabled Man to land what they used to be. Those fore calling. He is therefore, appear. on the moon. The professor spoke at length about the destruction to nature and people’s livelihood so widely prevalent in our times. The most glaring example he cited was the Vedanta site in Odisha where SHORT ’N’ SNAPPY forested slopes and flowing streams of the Niyamgiri hills provide a living to the Kondh tribes. The rich biodiversity of the Niyamgiri massif critically links a series of forests and wildlife sanctuaires. who know MMM personally usually very short (and MMM went across to be Today it is threatened by mining operations. The Vedanta site is will agree that he is built on snappy) with the kind that met by a beaming anchor, a one of the main sources of Vamsadhdhara River, and mining op- what are known as generous calls and asks him to tell “all cameraman who was all burps, erations would result in a hydrological disaster, destroying the very proportions (known in Delhi that he knows about Bucking- and a surly helper who no integrity of its ecosystem. It also severely disturbs 7 sq. km of wild- as healdhee type). He is broad ham Canal” or, for that mat- doubt had not had his lunch. life habitat wrecking its ecology. The Kondhs are agitated because where he ought not to be, and ter, “the Beach”. To these he MMM extended a wintry smile they believe their survival is at stake. that means clothes that allow responds by tersely informing and asked them as to what did The Government of India Forest Rights Act (FRA) vests for certain roominess, espe- them that Google would be the owe the pleasure of the visit. cially in leg wear. That is, how- best source for what they re- “We came to discuss clock recognisable community and habitat rights, with its preamble ever, sadly no longer the case, quire. Several of this kind towers with you, Sir”, gushed clearly stating that forest dwellers are “integral to the very survival for some madness has gripped never call back after that, but the anchor. “We want to know and sustainability of the forest ecosystem.” The FRA further authorises all the designer labels in the some of the more persistent why most of them don’t work the Gram Sabhas to ensure that their habitat is preserved from any city which are now churning ones do and these need to be and why those that do are not destructive practices affecting their cultural and natural heritage. out only slim fits. These begin humoured. keeping the correct time. And The Forest Rights Act, however, has not been formalised to with a waist size approaching One of the last named kind also are they relevant today date, with the result, the District Administrations have often failed zero and then go on to narrow was recently in touch with when everyone has watches to to act either fairly or firmly to protect the rights of the Kondhs. In legs. Imagine MMM’s plight MMM. She, it transpired, was remind them of the time and fact, the State Government has already taken a decision to trans- when he has to try and strug- from a TV channel that takes the necessity for punctuality?” fer tribal land to the mining group. Dr. Gadgil pointed out: “Not gle into them. He made bold its name from Soleil who lights So much for heritage! to ask as to what had hap- only is the transfer of community resources for mining without seeking up our day. In terms of chan- pened to the older and broader nels, this would qualify as Tailpiece their informed consent unfair, it is also illegal after the enactment of the fits and was given a contemp- THE channel of channels and FRA.” tuous glance by the sales help as The Man from Madras MMM was loath to give her Musings heard of Prof. Gadgil spoke about many other instances of rights being at one of the outfitters. The short shrift. She said she was H blatantly violated in other States as well. He cited Karwar which good lady shushed MMM Kisholam, asked a junior keen to get my views on some reporter from a famed national was incorporaed into Karnataka in 1960 under the Linguistic firmly by asking him to change aspect of heritage and so could with the times. MMM would newspaper. MMM had not. Reorganisation of States. Some villagers learned that their land she call on me at the earliest? The caller was astounded. would be taken over and so quickly razed it to the ground in just 2 love to, but his figure no MMM agreed and we fixed a longer can change. How could MMM, who had weeks. The case dragged on for many long years, till eventually the time. MMM also warned the worked so closely with the High Court ordered that the land be given back to the villagers. What surprises MMM is correspondent that he had a Chief who literally drips his- Concluding his talk by describing many other such instances of that the slim fit has hit the fetish for punctuality and that tory, not know of Kisholam his time was not his own. So FRA violations, Prof. Gadgil posed a devastating question: Should racks just when Chennai is go- the architect whose death cen- ing through one of the most could she please make it on our biodiversity wealth be surrendered to moneyed mining inter- tenary falls this year and about obese phases in its existence. time? The woman agreed and whom one of the Chief’s side- ests, just to serve a capital-intensive economy that is so wasteful of All around him MMM sees said that she and her team natural resources? The Western world could afford to do it once kicks was giving a talk? It was men with paunches hanging would be at MMM’s office by quite a while after he had hung upon a time as they had successfully accumulated large capital out, waists ballooning from 3.00 pm sharp. up that MMM realised that the stocks through colonisation. India cannot afford this extravagance. trousers, and necks disappear- The time came and went reporter was talking about This question needs to be posed in all Indian States. And also needs ing behind bulging jowls. Just and not a sign of the team from Chisholm (‘Chishum’ for the to be responded by the new Government. (Courtesy: Virasat – the by looking at them you can the sun god’s own channel. uninitiated). journal of INTACH) guess that our city would have MMM did not bother and – MMM August 16-31, 2014 MADRAS MUSINGS 3

Chepauk Palace, National Art Gallery How slow can A Commercial Break The last time... The eggs that were made into omelettes were... The last time what... Not made properly? renewal get?! Don’t interrupt. The last time we had You’re putting words into my mouth again breakfast... What I was about to say was that the om- We have breakfast every day... elette was good... (By A Special Correspondent) Allow me to speak. The last time we had Then what’s your complaint? breakfast.. Allow me to complete... hree fires – one major and collapse, perhaps because the Was yesterday. Last morning… Go ahead, go on... two minor – two roof col- structure was anyway damaged Will you allow me to speak? The omelette was excellent but the... T OK. Go ahead. If the omelette was good the eggs couldn’t be lapses, horrendous neglect and thanks to the earlier fall. The a restoration plan that is taking The last time we had breakfast it was ... bad. Stands to reason second and more recent fire was Toast and eggs and the eggs... Allow me to explain. You are always interrupt- even longer to begin than the attributed to old wood and You bought them. ing original construction – this is wires being stored in the build- No I didn’t, OK. So the omelette was good but the eggs the state of Chepauk Palace to- ing. Is this how heritage struc- You bought them from the new store at the were... day. Historians and conserva- tures are to be looked after? corner The omelette was good, the eggs bought at the tionists may tout it as the first With this, we have now ef- So what? It’s a brand new store and... new store were good but... example of Indo-Saracenic ar- fectively damaged both wings of Maybe it’s a brand new store but the eggs were... Come to the point. What’s your complaint? chitecture, but our Govern- the Chepauk Palace, with only What was wrong with the eggs? I’m not complaining. Just stating a fact. If you ment doesn’t appear to appreci- its central tower, built a hun- I didn’t say anything was wrong... allow me to speak. ate that. How else can you ex- Then what did you want to say? Go ahead, state your facts and be brief. dred years after the original What I wanted to say was... Don’t interrupt. I never interrupt you when you plain the sad track record of the construction, standing intact. That the eggs were ... speak. What I was saying was when you kept ‘restoration’ of the heritage pre- The restoration project that is Don’t interrupt me... interrupting me that the eggs were good, the cinct? on the anvil does not cover That the eggs were... omelette was good but... It is now two-and-a-half Humayun Mahal and is related Rotten? I didn’t say that. Don’t you put words Just then the doorbell rang. The expected years since the first major fire only to Khalsa Mahal. The into my mouth. visitors had arrived. broke out. That happened on former, therefore, is at present Then what did you want to say? The two siblings listened to their parents with Pongal Day in 2012. The Khalsa facing a question mark as to its What I wanted to say was that the eggs you amusement. Mahal was gutted in the inci- future. bought at the new store round the... One said, “This comes from watching TV Be brief please ... debates all the time.” dent. A few months prior to The Humayun Mahal com- that, we in Madras Musings had I never interrupt you when you speak. So allow The other said, “Mercifully, our parents have plex is not alone in this. The me to speak – What I wanted to say was that been forced to slip into a break because of written about the way Chepauk National Art Gallery (formerly the eggs you bought from the new store the visitors.” Palace was being maintained – the Victoria Memorial Hall) is round the corner were... old files, rotting furniture, yet to see any activity, two years Rotten? – Radha Padmanabhan frayed electrical wiring, rubbish after restoration was an- Not rotten. Don’t put words into my mouth. Editor’s Note: Ranjitha Ashok appears to have dumps everywhere, and a fam- nounced and six months after Did I ever say rotten when we last had break- got everyone talking (or is it writing?) in ily of squatters in the front por- funds were released for it. The fast? verse. tico who were cooking meals. dome here is said to be in a pre- No, you didn’t. We had even then mentioned that a disaster was waiting to (Continued on page 12) happen. Not that our observa- tions made any difference to Hope for Kelly be completing 50 years at VHS Included was released in the those in charge of the place. So, only in January 2015. U.S. in July 2014. ndian civilisation never had sure enough there was a fire ac- The errors are regretted. Also, her mother Ruth did toilet culture. Men defeca- cident. What followed was a I not learn Bharata Natyam from taed and urinated wherever – Shobha Menon hasty announcement by a Min- the Travancore sisters, but ister that the building would be they liked. River beds and ca- * * * along with them from their nals served to wash themselves, razed to the ground and a new need for cleanliness and hy- dance guru. structure built instead. This was Coconut groves and mango giene is now part of early school The preface to the article on later retracted, following pro- groves also served as toilets. education and we can already the American who danced with – Vijaysree Venkatraman the Travancore Trio (MM, Au- tests by historians and heritage Some four or five decades ago, see youngters sticking to decent * * * gust 1st) says: “New Hampshire activists. A committee of three, you could see people washing methods. Only the old people The article Decentralise (USA), based Betsy Woodman, with not one conservationist their bottoms in canals or rivers still cling to ancient ways. More waste management (MM, June an alumna of Woodstock among them, then studied the after defecating and a few yards and more conveniences are be- 16th) was written by Harsha School, Mussoorie, is the au- damage and recommended that away people washing their ing provided all over the coun- Anantharaman of Transparent thor of three children’s books what was needed was restora- clothes and further down many try. Chennai, and not by Sushila set in North India.” Betsy tion. While this may have come bathing. Kerala has a better cleanli- Natraj. as a relief, what has happened Crude toilets were provided ness consciousness and the Woodman is a novelist, not a Avni Rastogi since then makes us wonder for women in the backyards of State is much cleaner compared writer of children’s books! Her Transparent Chennai about the Government’s sincer- their houses to ease themselves. to Tamil Nadu or Andhra. three books, the series on the 24, Kothari Road ity in its expressed commitment The excreta would be collected Karnataka is also better. Tamil adventures of Jana Bai, are set Nungambakkam, Chennai to take up that task. While we manually by scavengers early Nadu is incorrigible. It takes in a ‘fictional’ town in northern Editor’s Note: We regret the have heard that an architect mornings. Visiting villages was time for a civilisation to change India. The latest book Emeralds error. has been appointed for it, there a nightmare for city dwellers as itself after years of habits. The has been no action since. The they were unused to easing only thing uppermost in Indian gutted portion remains open to themselves in open. Not that minds was realising God and CHENNAI HERITAGE the sky and is weakening by the city toilets were any better. speculating about souls and day. They had walls and roofs. That hereafter. Nothing else mat- No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, Royapettah, Chennai 600 014 The story of the other wing was all. Flushouts were unheard tered. Seal Paul Kelly (MM, July I am already on your mailing list (Mailing List No...... ) / I of the palace – Humayun Mahal of. 16th) will find a better India, have just seen Madras Musings and would like to receive it hereafter. – is no better. A year ago we When people migrated to big say, after fifty years. G I/We enclose cheque/demand draft/money order for Rs. 100 wrote about how this section cities in search of jobs, they had (Rupees One hundred) payable to CHENNAI HERITAGE, was in an equally precarious no option but to defecate in T. Santhanam MADRAS, as subscription to Madras Musings for the year [email protected] condition. One of the floors had open in the absence of toilets. 2014-15. collapsed and Government de- They felt shy for some time, but Getting it straight G As token of my support for the causes of heritage, environment partments and officers contin- nature’s calls were too compel- and a better city that Madras Musings espouses, I send Chennai ued to function all around the ling and they would slowly shed It was Dr. Krishnamoorthy Heritage an additional Rs...... (Rupees ...... ) Please keep/ their inhibitions. Women were Srinivas, who was quoted in the crater that it had left behind! put me on your mailing list. Old papers and junk abounded, not so lucky.That was Indian article on the VHS (MM, July Name : ...... as did shoddy electric wiring. civilisation. 16th), and not his son Dr. E.S. Address: ...... Since then, we have had two Things are definitely im- Krishnamoorthy, who is a Pro- fires, both minor, but the sec- proving. The concept of regular fessor in the academic depart- All cheques to ‘Chennai Heritage’. DD/Cheque should be sent by Speed Post only. ond one caused a partial floor toilets has taken root and the ment. Further, Dr. Srinivas will 4 MADRAS MUSINGS August 16-31, 2014 A walk in The Armenians the Fort too join s another Madras Week gets underway, I the celebrations Arecall another August day seven years ago when a large group of us stood in front of Fort St. t is that time of the year when friends and rookies working at George, waiting to join a Heritage Walk, an ex- Ithe city newspapers call me for leads and itsy-bits on our city. cellent concept put together by a group of hard- You must be aware that August is the time when we cel- working people united by love for their city and ebrate this city, from Madras Day to Madras Week (www. themadrasday.in). its history, and their dedication to share it with Clive House. the world at large. It is a time when I must prepare to lead a cub reporter to a We were a truly mixed group, and it was heart- ance, the British Raj caused more harm than good stone that lies alongside the Marmalong Bridge in Saidapet, with an Armenian legend tarred into ening to see a good number of North Indians and in India. But that morning, in the church, some- thing of the romance of the Raj, captured in so the earth. Or help the rookie ne- even more encouraging to see a healthy scatter- gotiate the pavements in San ing of college students, who had clearly come of many books and movies, touched me. The church was filled with tombstones, many of them with Thomé to another Armenian tab- their own volition. let on the outer wall of a church A clap of the hands, and we were brought to very moving epitaphs, as they told of young men which now stands inside the local order. We were reminded that parts of the Fort and women who died young in the cause of serv- school campus. St. George housed the Tamil Nadu Government, ing their Empire, people who toiled in conditions Yes, this city has lots of Arme- parts of it belonged to the Army, and a small por- their bodies, accustomed to cool Northern climes, nian history. Earlier this year, I tion was under the control of the Archaeological simply could not cope with. Something of their played host to two Armenian sis- The Trap of Glory, by Shaha- ters who now live in France. Survey of India. Plus, it was historic property. sincerity of purpose, their hard-working dedica- tion to empire-building, the harsh conditions they mirian was written and published Satenig, a scholar, was here to here. had to endure, came through in these inscrip- complete her study of the Arme- tions. nian who, while in this city, dreamt of a constitution for a free Armenia state. There were other treasures, too: the teakwood Yes, a visit to the Armenian balustrade, the organ, the altar piece, a huge Church was on. This must be painting of The Last Supper, simple but lovely among the Top 5 places of tran- stained glass windows. Here, Elihu Yale got mar- quillity in our city. If you are here ried, the first marriage to be celebrated in St. on a Sunday, time it for 9.30 a.m. Mary’s, and Robert Clive was married here, too. when caretaker Trevor, who has Outside, the lush gardens were cool and quiet, lots of Old George Town stories to The crenellated walls. and the only sounds were the songs of the birds share, rings the bells. Six of them, and the rustle of the trees in the wind. It was en- 18th Century vintage. And a form Therefore we had to behave ourselves, not touch chanting. of weekly prayer at a church where a lone lit lamp stands on the altar what was not to be touched, and not stray from The spell was broken when we left the church the group. and few really pray. and walked towards Clive House (first called Ad- Satenig and a group of Arme- We passed the old Governor’s House, now the miralty House). We climbed up a flight of steps Tamil Nadu Secretariat and ministers' offices. nians from France and in India are into a large room with high ceilings and many pil- now curating events for Madras This handsome building, with its lovely portico, lars along the side. The room was a mess – dusty, Week. In 1794, Azdarar, the first has as its most striking feature 20 granite pillars, decrepit, with peeling paint, and monstrous-look- A decade and more since this Armenian periodical headed by made of the best Pallavaram granite. Sadly, who- ing construction equipment flung haphazardly unique idea got rolling, Madras Haruthyun Shmavonian, was ever was in charge of “restoring” the appearance around. It was a sad sight, even sadder, consider- Week seems to be taking on a published in this churchyard. of these pillars decided that the best way to do it ing the grand times the building had seen. It was fascinating life of its own. At local levels. Internationally. And in other forms. All this would be by giving them a coat of shining black originally the site of the Court of Admiralty, paint, thus condemning the lovely granite to be is good for the future. where those merchants and traders who dared Slowly, academi- forever hidden from view. These pillars have trav- bypass or disobey the East India Company and its elled and seen places – built in 1732 as part of a The stamp Armenia published in 2001 to cians are also tuning licensing requirements, as well as an assortment celebrate the 1700th anniversary of the proc- in. Sundar from the 32-pillar colonnade, they were spirited away to of pirates, fugitives and mutineers, were tried and lamation of Christianity as state religion in famed Roja Muthiah Pondicherry in 1746 by the French, and made punished for their crimes. Later Robert Clive and Armenia. Library in Taramani their way back to Madras in 1762, when they his bride moved in, and there must surely have says that among the were placed back in their original site. A few been some grand balls and parties in that stately talks listed for this oc- demolitions and renovations later, they were in- mansion, the fabled pomp and splendour of the casion is one by Dr. corporated in the early years of the 20th Century British Raj. Perundevi Srinivasan who will present a pa- into the portico of the building that is now the We walked on past the Grand Arsenal (appar- Secretariat. per on ‘Mariyamman ently some sort of a top-secret location, but no- at the interface of Sci- In the growing heat, our group walked on, our body seemed to know, or want to reveal why, and steps not quite as brisk and peppy as before. A The stamp released in ence and Religion. we were only allowed to gaze at it from a respect- 1994 to celebrate the And Dr. Karen from few minutes later, we spied, looming close by, the ful distance – not that there was much to gaze at the Madras Institute of clean, simple lines of the spire of the St. Mary’s bicentenary of the – and not take photographs), and then towards Azdarar Development Studies Church, said to be the oldest Anglican church (The Monitor), the first Armenian the north-eastern part of the complex, where the periodical, by H. Shimavonian in Madras. in Adyar says that her east of the Suez. We paused awhile in the heav- walls that surrounded the Fort complex still institute plans to enly shade outside, enjoying the unlikely sounds stand. Beyond these thick walls lay Black Town, curate a seminar on settlements on the city’s waterways. of organ music in this bastion of Carnatic music. where the Natives lived their supposedly unpious Last week, a group undertook a tour alongside the Cooum Within its walls – four feet thick and bomb proof and this project has the potential for documentation and study. and heathen lives. These walls, 6 metres high, are Research, study tours, writing and literature on this city must – there had worshipped a veritable who’s who of crenellated, for gun placement and use, mostly the British Raj. be encouraged. Small beginnings in little backyards will make against the never-say-die French. The views were this possible. (Courtesy: Adyar Times) The last notes of the organ died away, and we magnificent, but you also got the sense of being entered St. Mary’s Church. I love the atmosphere in a garrison, of being enclosed within a place that Vincent D’Souza in an old church, the hushed stillness, the pure afforded protection from outside elements and serenity, everyone wrapped up in a bubble of their the many dangers that those within the Fort must own thoughts and prayers. And when I walked have felt and faced. Finally, we stopped to ad- into St. Mary’s, it was no different. But there was We walked down the steps, and, hugging the mire the cupola where the something else in the air, and as my eyes adjusted northern boundary of the complex, passed many statue of Cornwallis had once to the darker interior and my body rejoiced at the army barracks, including the Kings Barracks stood (now protected against coolness within, I realised what it was. The ghosts which, with over 10,000 square metres of space, the elements in the Fort Mu- of history. The spirit of the Raj. A sense of being is the largest of its kind in India (I think). Today, seum), and at the many intri- in another era, one of gallantry and chivalry, one it houses the Army’s cafeteria and canteen al- cately carved cannons that still filled with hope and despair and suffering and though, gazing through their gates, it was easy to face seaward. cruelty and fantastic expectations and perilous imagine a thousand high-spirited, or lonely, or Where the Fort Museum is seas and homesickness and disease and longing friendless or popular young men who lived there, today once stood a house be- The Cornwallis cupola. for a faraway land and loved ones. cheek-by-jowl with their mates, like in any col- longing to a merchant. The East I am one of those who believes that, in bal- India Company “acquired” it lege dormitory today. (Continued on page 11) August 16-31, 2014 MADRAS MUSINGS 5

G Talk: Institutional Habitats: Theosophical Society, IIT-M and MCC, Madras Tambaram by Preston Ahimaz. Organised by MNS 05.15 p.m. SPACES G Madras meets Korea at the Korean Bazaar. Organised by the Korean Week ’14 Consulate-General and members of the Korean community in and around the city. Food stalls too August 17 to San Thomé HSS San Thomé 3.00-7.00 p.m. August 25 G Walk: Mint Street, Sowcarpet Food Walk: Notable items include dhokla/ Updated till August 14th kachori/jalebis/vada pav/lassi/chats/samosa/fafda/Kulfi/pav bhaji/badam milk. Contact: Sridhar Venkataraman: [email protected], https:// www.facebook.com/ sridhar.venkataraman During August Meet at Mehta Brothers, 5 p.m. 2535 0689 — Trips in sail boats (with fishing included) off the coast of Adyar are being arranged by Adventure ‘n’ Nature to celebrate ‘Madras 375’. Aug 17, 23 and 24 Dipankar Ghosh 99403 55521 G Food Demonstration: Chettinad cookery demonstration by an expert at G Exhibition: A rare collection of old Madras photographs will be on display each venue. Items to be demonstrated are: Day 1: Kavan arsi, capsicum throughout the month.There will also be special Madras tiffin combos at mango mandi, paniyaram, varamuligai chutney and meen kolumbu; Day Blu Hickey Bistro Restaurant at Rs. 500 nett per person. 2: Kandarappam, potato karuvattu poriyal, iddiyappam thalichadu and kosamalli, chicken pepper fry; Day 3: Kuzhi paniyaram, kadamba chut- Radisson Blu Hotel GRT, GST Road, 11 am.-7 p.m. ney, pal kozhakottai, milagu kolumbu and mutton uppukari. Organised August 15-22 (7 outlets), 17-22 (7 more outlets) by M. Mahadevan of Hot Breads G Promotion: All Hot Breads outlets will have a celebratory look with At copper Chimney, The Marina, Bombay Brasserie on all days. iconic structures of Madras/Chennai as entrance arches. Special Madras August 17-24 Week counters/products/special 375 promos in each outlet. G Exhibition: Armenians in Madras (17th & 18th Centuries) curated by the August 15, 2014 Society for Armenian Studies, Paris. There will also be various talks — CD Release: CD-release function of the Madras Youth Choir. Wel- during the Week. come by P.C. Ramakrishna. Songs by children, and release of the children’s Armenian Church CD by Leela Samson. Followed by: Talk: Madras and Music. Dr Ghatam Karthik, well-known musician and G Food Festival: Chettinad Virundhu. Cooks from The Bangala, Karaikudi ghatam exponent, will speak on the history of Carnatic music, its lumi- will provide a full plated menu at lunch. Different menu on each day. At naries, the various sabhas of our city, the happenings of the December dinner, a special menu with a few dishes from the lunch menu of the day. music season etc. Organised by South India Heritage Programme Organised by M. Mahadevan of Hot Breads 9.30 am to 11.30 am at TAG Centre. Only for member and their guests. Armenian Church Restaurant G Food Festival: Dinner buffet: Madras Curry Week at Buzz. August 16 and 17 Details: 6680 2500 G Films: Documentaries on Madras-based artists organised by Taj Gateway Hotel DakshinaChitra. Echoes of freedom – R.B. Bhaskaran. 30 mins; Red Sym- phony – Achuthan Kudallur. 40 mins; Deskilling of Art – Banner artists. August 17-25 40 mins; Films by Gita. — Exhibition: Books on Madras. On all days except the 19th. DakshinaChitra. 11 am-1 pm. Details: 98417 77779 Madras Club Members only, 10.00 am – 7.00 pm G Exposition: Eco Spots of Chennai: Know Them, Sustain Them, Interactive August 17 sessions with public on various Eco Spots. Organised by the Madras Naturalists’ Society (MNS). G Heritage Ride: The Perambur Ride will start from Madras Veterinary SPACES, 11 a.m.-7.00 p.m. on both days College, Vepery, and finish at Sir Baden Powell Scout Training Centre, Perambur. In between, see churches that are a century old, the Railway August 16 Hospital that was opened in 1820, a plaque dating to the 19th Century. G Heritage Walk: Looking back at Lloyd’s Road – walk led by Mohan V Students from the KRM Public School, Perambur, will participate. Raman and Sriram V. Walk requires registration (at Helmet is mandatory. Please wear bright coloured clothing to enhance [email protected]) and payment in advance. Ends with break- visibility. The ride is free of cost and has no registration fees. You are fast. Organised by Chennai Heritage. responsible for your own safety. Obey all the traffic rules. The road will 6.00 to 8.30 am. Register at [email protected] not be closed for the event. Ensure that your bicycle is in a good and safe-to-ride condition. Ride route is subject to last minute changes. G Quiz: QFI Chennai Qfiesta. Registration fee: Rs150/-. Organised by The For registration and other information log onto Cycling Yogis fb page: Quiz Foundation of India https://www.facebook.com/groups/cyclingyogis/ or call Senthil Tel: 98842 9.30 am onwards. IIT, Madras. Details: [email protected] 46822 or Ramanujar Tel: 98840 23123 — Talk: Madras to Chennai: A Strategic Hub by Dr. Uttam Kumar 5 a.m. to 7 a.m. Jamdhagni, Department of Defence and Strategic Studies, Madras Uni- G Heritage Walk: Coursing down College Road – walk led by Sriram V. versity, followed by an open discussion. Organised by Observer Research Walk requires registration (at [email protected]) and payment Foundation. Intending participants should confirm their interest by email: in advance. Ends with breakfast. Organised by Chennai Heritage. [email protected] and also warn-in for lunch. 6.00 to 8.30 am 11 am-1 pm. A1 Towers. G Photowalk: ‘S’ Walk @ Velachery aka Vedasreni. From Guru Nanak Col- G Talk: Biodiversity of Chennai by Dr. R. Bhanumathi. Organised by MNS lege to Vijayanagar junction. Walk Leader: Hari Meiyappan, ph: 99629 11.45 a.m. SPACES 29206. No need for registration. Just join the walk at the starting point.

G Photowalk: Organised by YOCee inside Adyar Poonga. Meeting point Guru Nanak College, 6.30-9.30 a.m

3-4.30 p.m. Limited to 30 children studying in Classes 4-10. G Heritage Walk: Perambur Walk conducted by Girish, K. 100 year old Meet at Adyar Poonga gate, 2.45 p.m. [email protected] institutions are in the list of 10 places of interest. Two-hour walk. No fee. Report at Perambur Railway Station near Advance Reservation Counter. G Talk: Bird Sanctuaries: Pulicat and Vedanthangal. by Dr. T. Murugavel. Organised by MNS Open to 30 participants only. 4.00 p.m. SPACES 6.30 a.m. Contact 9884132136. To register email: [email protected], with name & phone no.

Check www.themadrasday.in and Madras Week App Promotion and Publicity: for up-to-date programmes. PRISM Public Relations. 6 MADRAS MUSINGS August 16-31, 2014

G Heritage Walk: Fort St George Walk led by Vincent D' Souza. Report Assemble by 5 p.m. at the Illam. Registration by email only: by 6.45 am for security check. Registration not required. Starting point: [email protected] Parking lot opp. main gate of Fort. G Talk: Chennai Heritage Lecture: A Piece of the Past – Mementoes from Starts at 7 am; 2hrs. 18th Century Madras – Talk by Dr. Swapna Sathish, Dept. of Fine Arts, — Walk: Heritage Walk in the Madras Club with S. Muthiah. Stella Maris College. A Charles Wallace India Trust grant helped her do post-doctoral research in the UK on art and artifacts in the homes of 9.30 am at Madras Club. Members & guests only British ‘nabobs’ with Madras connections. Her talk derives from the visit. G Quiz: QFI Chennai Qfiesta, Two quizzes,morning and afternoon Regis- GRT, T’Nagar. 6.30 pm tration fee: Rs150/- per quiz. Details: [email protected] Organised by The Quiz Foundation of India G Exhibition: 158 years of forest conservation in South India, focussing on H.F.C. Cleghorn, R. Wight and E.G. Balfour. 9.30 am and 2.30 pm at IIT, Madras Studio Palazzo, Chetpet G Heritage Tour: Bronze Gallery tour at Madras Museum led by Chithra Madhavan. Organised by Namma Mylapore. The fee for the tour will be — The INTACH Parampara Heritage Club of the Sri Sankara Vidyashramam Rs.250/- (entrance ticket included). Matriculation HSS, Tiruvanmiyur, will conduct the following activities at the school. From 11 am to 1 pm. To register [email protected] Exhibition: Organised by students of Std. VII and VIII depicting the G Talk: Coast of Chennai by Dr. T.D. Babu. Organised by MNS uniqueness of Chennai City. Films: Visitors to the exhibition from 11.45 a.m., SPACES neighbouring schools will also see films shot by members of the Heritage Club. G Talk: Forests of Chennai: Guindy NP and Nanmangalam Reserve Forest by Inter-School Competitions: Painting (Std. VII & VIII) Two partici- Vikas Madhav. Organised by MNS pants from each school. Topic: On the spot. Oratorical (IX & X): Two 04.00 p.m SPACES participants from each school. Topic: If I were... Duration: 2 mins. (Each student can imagine herself/himself to be a place/animal/monument/food G Talk: Wetlands of Chennai: Pallikaranai, Siruthavur, etc. by Gnanaskandan item etc. native to Chennai, but must reflect on its heritage value and K. Organised by MNS significance). 05.15 p.m. SPACES 10-11 am

G Commemoration: Release of Special Postage Cover. Theme: Transport in August 18-September 20 Madras. Hosted by Chennai Heritage Lovers Group and the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) G Exhibition: MADras! An exhibition of 375 cartoons on the city and its people by Biswajit Balasubramanian. At Clive Hall, ASI, Fort St George Forum Art Gallery, 10.30 am to 6.30 pm G Talk: Chennai Heritage Lecture: From Madras to Mandalay. Geeta Doc- tor looks at the Madras-Myanmar connect through conversations with S August 19-23 Muthiah and Visalakshi Ramaswami. Readings from the book A King G Exhibition: Shoot Chennai – An exhibition of selected entries to photo in Exile, a short film by Shylaja Chettur and a special menu presented by contests conducted by the Photographic Society of Madras. Chef Rajesh of The Park Hotel Ambassador Pallava, 9.00 a.m. - 9.00 p.m. The Park, 6.30 p.m. August 19 August 18-23 G Talk: Temples in and around Chennai: A presentation by Chithra G Exhibition: Print culture in Cennaipattinam. Organised by the Roja Muthiah Madhavan. Organised by the PII Research Library (RMRL) PII, 5 pm Roja Muthiah Library, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. G Talk: Chennai Heritage Lecture: The Indo-Saracenic Man – A tribute to G Exhibition: Photo exhibition on North Madras – Then and Now. Organised Robert Fellowes Chisholm on his death centenary. A talk by Sriram V, by Avvai Kalai Kazhagam. entrepreneur, writer and Associate Editor, Madras Musings Avvai Kalai Kazhagam, 10 am-5 pm Hyatt Regency. 6.30 pm August 18 — Quiz: Women of Chennai, conducted by Sushi Natraj. Organised by Ro- — Multi-events: An all-day programme by students of the Department of tary Club of Madras South. Indian Music, University of Madras. Savera Hotel, 6.30-8 p.m. Members and guests only

Clock Tower Building, University of Madras G Workshop: A unique opportunity for children to learn the art of making Group Rendition of Vintage Tamil Film Devotional Classics by the students miniature models from old Madras photographs. Organised by of the Department DakshinaChitra 10.15-10.30 a.m. DakshinaChitra For more Information and to register, contact 98417 Workshop on Harikatha Compositions learnt from C. Bannibai by 77779 Dr. Premeela Gurumurthy. G Contest: Power Point Presentation for City schools. Theme: Temples of 10.30-11.15 a.m. Chennai. Partners: Mylapore Times & South India National Association. Sastri Hall, Luz Tiruvallikkeni Vina Ramanuja and his Sangita Sarvartha Sara Sangrahamu by Dr. Rajshri Sripathy. August 20-23 11.15-12.00 noon G Exhibition: Art works and photographs of Classic Madras and Contem- Veena Dhanammal, Madras Lalithangi and Kanchipuram Dhanakoti Ammal porary Chennai by Chennai Weekend Artists and Chennai Weekend and their musical excellence by M.Subhasree. Clickers. On display will be collages of printed art works and photo- 12.00 noon-12.45p.m graphs of various locations in Chennai by artists and photographers who explore Chennai every week. Their original or printed sketch books and Malaikottai Govindasamy Pillai and his grandson T.K.Ramamurthy of photographs will also be displayed. Viswanathan Ramamurthy fame by Dr. R. Hemalatha. Shilpa Architects, Tiruvanmiyur 12.45-1.30 p.m. August 20-30 Vintage Film: Kalki’s Parthiban Kanavu. Jubilee Films. Star Cast: Vijayantimala, Gemini Ganesan, S.V. Ranga Rao. G Exhibition: Once Upon a Time... in Madras. Organised by C.P. Ramaswami Aiyar Foundation. 02.30 p.m (By Invitation) Vennirul Art Gallery G Talk: Story of the English Press in Madras by S. Muthiah. Organised by the Press Institute of India. August 20 Press Institute of India (PII), 5 pm G Panel Discussion: 100. Centenary of World War I – New insights about the present and future. Sriram V and A.R. Venkatachalapathy will discuss G Walk: A heritage walk and presentation to discover how the Ice House this cataclysmic event and the artistic and literary movements of the era, on the Marina became Vivekanandar Illam. Organised by Nithya Balaji with special focus on Madras. Moderator: Helmut Schippert Organised and Kaveri Bharath. Duration: one hour and thirty minutes. Maximum by Goethe-Institut participation: 40, first-come first-served. 11.30 am-1 pm, Asian College of Journalism August 16-31, 2014 MADRAS MUSINGS 7

G Talk: Madras and the American Connection by S. Muthiah. Organised by August 22-30 RMRL. G Exhibition: Women artists of Chennai. Curated by Premalatha. Also, a RMRL, 5 p.m. talk on restoration of art works by Aparajitha, and a one-day art camp by some of the participating artists. Organised by Association of British G Talk: Revisiting colonial history: What if Lally had defeated the English in Scholars. 1761? by Sumitra Muthukumar. Organised by the PII. Art Houz, Alwarpet PII, 5 pm August 22 G Talk: Chennai Heritage Lecture: From LA to Madras in search of music. G Walk: Mylapore Food Walk: Notable items include adai/bonda/onion Well-known film critic and writer Baradwaj Rangan in conversation samosa/vazhakka bajji/chutney/filter coffee/rose milk/badam milk/goli soda. with young and fast-rising Carnatic musician Sandeep Narayan Contact: Sridhar Venkataraman: [email protected], https:// Chamiers Anokhee. 6.30 pm www.facebook.com/sridhar.venkataraman — Walk: Walk for Hindusthan College of Technology students on the At 4.30 p.m. Meet at Mylapore Head Post Office, Kutchery Road. Marina conducted by Nandini Arun G Talk: The Origin of Chennai/Madras by Prof. J.B.P. More. Organised by The Marina Beach, 7.00 am RMRL. August 21 RMRL, 5 p.m. G Talk: Chennai that was Madras, in song by Uma Vangal. Organised by G Talk: The hidden gems of Madras by S. Venkataram aka Poochi Venkat. Organised by the PII. the PII. PII, 5 pm PII, 5 pm — Book Release: Tales of Old and New Madras and 7th Edition of Madras G Walk: Purasawalkam Food Walk: Notable items include vada pav/pav Rediscovered (revised and expanded) by S. Muthiah. Also the second bhaji/chats/murukku sandwich/gola/ sambar idli/sambar vada/chutneys edition of Madras Rediscovered in Tamil (translated by Karthik vada paav Contact: Sridhar Venkataraman: [email protected], https:/ Narayanan). The translation is of the 7th English edition. Also sale of /www.facebook.com/sridhar.venkataraman books on Madras. Organised by Westland. Meet at Mehtaas , 5.30 p.m. Vivanta by Taj at Connemara 7 p.m. Invitees only. — Talk: Madras – First City of Modern India by S. Muthiah. Organised by — Commemoration: 375th Birthday Dinner/Dance. TIE. 7.30 pm. Madras Club Members & guests only. Raintree, St. Mary’s Rd 6.30 p.m. For members and guests only. G Film: Screening of prize-winning short films on Madras architecture. G Talk: Chennai Heritage Lecture: Foodpreneurship in Chennai – The competition open to all schools of architecture was organised by Panel discussion anchored by entrepreneur Chandu Nair. Panelists – Dr. K.R. Thooyavan. Kiran Rao of Amethyst, Vinit Chordia of Dinein.in and Bhuvanesh of Donut House. School of Architecture and Planning, Anna University Amethyst, 6.30 p.m. G Competition: A folk dance competition for college students organised by DakshinaChitra. Colleges can send in groups of six to ten students. The — Talk: The Lesser Temples in and around Chennai by Chithra Madhavan. theme would be on traditional folk performances. The best three folk 7.00 pm. Madras Club Members & guests only. performing teams will be given prizes and certificates. There is no partici- pation fee for the competition. Till August 22 At DakshinaChitra For information and registration call 98417 77779 G Exhibition: Magic of the Muse: Madras, an exhibition of paintings by G Exhibition: Namma Anna Nagar featuring photographs by you which Diane de Valou. represent the essence of Anna Nagar. Age no bar. To be mailed on or At Apparao Galleries. before 10 am, August 22. Register for the venue details. Organised by Anna Nagar Social History Group August 22-September 6 Registration [email protected], 98404 95717 — Photo talk: Programmes for schools being organised by Parent Circle magazine. August 23 and 24 For Primary Classes – Parent-Child: Photo talk: Madras then and now – G Films: Documentaries on Madras-based artists organised by Dakshina- by Poochi Venkat: How our daily activities are affecting the environment; Chitra. Shilpi speaks – Ganapathy Sthapathy. 60 mins; Film by Bala DIY activity on Recycling – Don’t throw that away – Takeway on how Kailasam to restore and preserve our beloved city DakshinaChitra. 11 am-1 pm For Middle School – Parent-Child: Photo talk: Chennai’s Waterways – by Poochi Venkat on Then and now; Debate: Can the Coovum regain its lost G Competition: Drawings on Anna Nagar. Day 1: 3-10 years; Day 2: glory? 11- 15 years. Register for the venue details 98404 95717 Both programmes will be conducted in Sri Sathya Sai Vidya Vihar Ma- Organised by Anna Nagar Social History Group. 2.30 pm. Registration triculation School, Tiruvottriyur end of August; Al Qamar Academy, [email protected] Tiruvanmiyur – August 23; Bamboola, RA Puram – August 22; Headstart August 23 Learning Centre, Karanai (near Shollinganallur) – 1st week of Septem- ber; KRM Matric Hr Sec School, Perambur – end of August/1st week of G Heritage Walk: The Gujaratis of Sowcarpet – walk led by Karthik Bhatt. September; Aloha International School, Neelangarai – end of August/1st Walk requires registration (at [email protected])and payment week of September. in advance. Ends with breakfast. Organised by Chennai Heritage. August 22-September 22 6.00 to 8.30 am G Exhibition: Chennai Nalla Chennai – a photo exhibition featuring G Heritage Tour: Trace Origin of Madras: Tour of Pulicat. AARDE Foun- photographs from S.A. Ramesh, Chennai. Organised by India Cultural dation conducts a heritage tour of Pulicat (Pazhaverkadu). 8.30 a.m. – Centre, Kuala Lumpur, Think City, and George Town Festival (Penang) Breakfast at Pulicat Interpretation Centre; 9.00 a.m. – Heritage Walk Star Building, Penang, Malaysia 12.30 p.m. – Lunch; 1.00 p.m. – Departure from Pulicat; Fee: Rs. 845, incl of A/c bus trip, breakfast, lunch, water & snacks August 22-23: 6.30 a.m. from Loyola College rear. Contact: 42139961 Email: G Market: By Hand from The Heart, an artisan and farmers’ market that [email protected]; www.aarde.in will present all things handmade and wholesome. The market will have G Tree Walk: Trees and melody in Carnatic music. Musical tree walk with makers of exclusive handcrafted jewellery, stationery, bags and more. Vidwan R.K. Shriramkumar and Latha Nathan. Organised by Nizhal. Organic food – mangoes, rhubarb preserves and sun-dried tomatoes – For registration: [email protected] or message www.facebook.com/ also on sale. nizhal.shade or call 90030 98613 97910 29568, or 9940061810 Hanu Reddy Residences, 10 am-8 pm Kotturpuram Tree Park, 7.30 a.m. to 8.30 a.m

August 22-24 G Heritage Walk: A day at Fort St. George. Assemble at the parking lot G Exhibition: Buckingham Canal – Maps, pictures, notes. Hosted by Chennai opposite main gate of Fort between 8.45 a.m and 9 a.m. Limited to 30 Heritage Lovers’ Group and the ASI children studying in Classes 5-12. Participants should carry a photo Id card or School Id card. There will be a short guided heritage walk, a Clive Hall, Fort St George. 10 am-5 pm 8 MADRAS MUSINGS August 16-31, 2014

scrapbook making session and a map reading session, an art contest and G Walk: Walk and Make Madras Scrapbook – organised by YOCee. Children a Madras word game. Organised by YOCee will be taken for a walk on a short stretch and at the end of the walk they 9 a.m. to 12 noon. To register [email protected] will have to make a scrapbook. Open to children from Classes 5 to 9 and restricted to 25 participants. Prior registration required. To register, SMS G Quiz: Anna Nagar: When? How? Why? Age 15 and above. Teams of two. name and age to 98405 44629 on or before August 20. Register for the venue details 98404 95717 Organised by Anna Nagar IIT, evening Social History Group 10 am. Registration [email protected] August 24 G Quiz: Heritage quiz for college students on The Madras Presidency. G Heritage Ride: The East Coast Road. Ride will start from Madhya Organised by INTACH Chennai. For registration rajvignesh@- Kailash (opp: Kasturba Nagar MRTS Station) and finish at the Madras xpressminds.com, [email protected], youngintach chennai- Square (Cafe-Art Gallery, Neelankarai). Heritage places to be covered @gmail.com, [email protected] during the ride are Tiruvanmiyur, Covelong (Kovalam) and TAG auditorium Anna University, 10 am-2 pm Tiruvidhanthai. The ECR ride will finish with a talk by Jahiram Janakiram at the Madras Square. He will share his experiences about cycling in — Talk: The Anglo-Indians- A 500-year history by S. Muthiah, followed by Madras during 1975 and 1990. an open discussion. Organised by Observer Research Foundation. In- tending participants should confirm their interest by email: Helmet is mandatory. Please wear bright coloured clothing to enhance [email protected] and also warn-in for lunch. visibility. The ride is free of cost and has no registration fees. You are responsible for your own safety. Obey all the traffic rules. The road will A1 Towers 11 am – 1 pm. not be closed for the event. Ensure that your bicycle is in a good and G Heritage Tour: Stone Gallery tour at the Madras Museum led by safe-to-ride condition. Chithra Madhavan. Organised by Namma Mylapore. Fee for the tour Ride route is subject to last minute changes. For registration and other Rs.250/- (entrance ticket included). information log onto Cycling Yogis fb page: https://www.facebook.com/ From 11 am to 1 pm. To register [email protected] groups/cyclingyogis/ or call Senthil Tel: 98842 46822 or Ramanujar Tel: 98840 23123 G Quiz: Madras Quiz (in Tamil). Open to school registered teams from 5 a.m. to 9 a.m. Tamil medium schools ONLY. Teams of two can participate. Each school can send 3 teams. Registration of teams must be made by the schools, not G Heritage Walk: Touring around Triplicane – walk led by Sriram V. Walk individuals at 98405 44629. Organised by Mylapore Times. requires registration (at [email protected]) and payment in ad- P.S.Hr.Sec.School campus, Mylapore 1.30 p.m. onwards vance. Ends with breakfast. Organised by Chennai Heritage. 6.00 to 8.30 am G Photowalk: W’ Walk @ Aminjikarai aka Amaindha Karai; From Toll Gate to Ampa Skywalk. Walk Leader: Ramaswamy Nallaperumal, 94440 G Nature Walk: Pallikaranai Marsh. Organised by the Madras Naturalists’ 62684. No need for registration, just join the walk at the starting point. Society. Meeting Point: Aminjikarai Tollgate 4 p.m. to 6.30 p.m. 6.15 a.m.

G Talk: Mariyamman at the interface of Science and Religion by Group size: 30; How to reach reporting place: When coming from Prof. Perundevi Srinivasan. Organised by RMRL. Velachery, take the service road along the 2nd flyover on the Velachery- RMRL, 5 p.m. Tambaram Road and turn left at the junction under the flyover onto the Velachery-Thoraipakkam Road, travel around 300 m. and take the U- G Quiz: Open quiz organised by INTACH Chennai on Madras. Quizmaster: turn after the Toll Plaza sign and the office is on the left immediately Kunal Savarkar, Delhi. Details: [email protected] after the turn. When coming from OMR, the Office is 200 m. after the The Marina restaurant, 5 pm Toll Plaza.

G Tree Walk. Siddha medicine tree walk with Dr. K.V. Abirami and Chithra Reporting Place: Forest Dept. Office on Velachery-Thoraipakkam Road Viswanathan. How have the Naaval, Nuna, Putranjiva and many other For details: Vijay 98400 90875 such trees been a part of Siddha medicine down the ages. Organised by G Heritage Walk: St. Thomas’ Mount. Duration: 2 hours. Rs. 500 (inclu- Nizhal. For registration: [email protected] or message sive of breakfast) For registration: Richard O'Connor: 98402 07283. www.facebook.com/nizhal.shade or call 90030 98613, 97910 29568, or From St. Patrick’s Church Time: 6.30 a.m. 9940061810 At Panagal Park, T Nagar. 5 p.m. to 6 p.m.. G Walk: Photowalk for children led by N. Ramaswamy of Chennai Daily G Walk: Triplicane Food Walk: Notable items include bread bajji/mysore Photo. Organised by YOCee. Limited to first 25 children from Classes 5- bonda/goli soda/aloo bonda/all bolis/masala paal/samosa & jalebis/sambar 12. From AMM School gate on Gandhi Mandapam Road, Kotturpuram idli Contact: Sridhar Venkataraman: [email protected], https:// to Kotturpuram MRTS Station. Children should bring their cameras (any www.facebook.com/sridhar.venkataraman type). Parents welcome Meet at Parthasarathy Temple (entrance near tank) At 5.00 p.m. 6.45 a.m. to 8 a.m. For registration R. Revathi 98405 44629

G G Walk: Discovering Mylapore. Starts at Luz Church and ends at The Heritage Walk: Fort St George Walk led by Vincent D' Souza. Report Children’s Club, V.M. Street, Mylapore. Children need to bring their by 6.45 for security check. Registration not required. Start point; Parking own pens, colour pencils, sketch pens, scissors and glue to make their lot opp. main gate of Fort. scrapbooks. Resource person Kalyani Narayanan of Snapshot Memories. Starts at 7 am 2 hours. Open to first 25 registrations. Organised by YOCee G Tree Walk. Putranjiva tree walk with Dr. T.D. Babu. From Banyans to 5 pm to 7 pm SMS name and age to 98405 44629 R. Revathi Register the Pala Indigo Tree, explore the magnificent trees in their sylvan set- on or before Aug. 19, 2014 ting. Organised by Nizhal. For registration: [email protected] or G Talk: Chennai Heritage Lecture: A birth centenary tribute to T.S. Baliah, message www.facebook.com/nizhal.shade or call 90030 98613, 97910 veteran comedian and character actor. Talk by Mohan V Raman, actor 29568, or 9940061810; 7.30 a.m. to 8.30 a.m. and entertainer. At Rostrevor Gardens Railway Colony, Teynampet, Anna Salai

Sheraton Park 5.30 pm G Exhibition: Annual parade of vintage cars followed by a display of the G Talk: The American Connection by S. Muthiah. Organised by the Indo- cars. Organised by The Madras Heritage Motoring Club American Association. 9 am to 12.30 pm Don Bosco School 6 p.m. Stella Marris College. — Quiz: Madras Quiz by Sriram.V. 12.00 noon. Madras Club members & guests only. G Talk: Temples around Chennai Chithra Madhavan. Organised by Namma Mylapore. G Quiz: Open Madras Quiz. Quizmaster Dr. Sumanth Raman. Sponsor: Murugappa Group. Tattvaloka, Eldam’s Road at 6 pm 1.30 pm Hotel Ramada, Egmore G Book Release: A Guide to some Urban Fauna of India. Published by Ma- dras Naturalists’ Society. Chief Guest: Venu Srinivasan. Guest of G Tree Walk. An Insect tree walk with ’Poochi’ Venkat and Rajani Shankar. Honour: M.V. Murugappan. Special address on Living with Urban Birds: Visit the magical world of insects and the trees that they inhabit. Organised Dr. V. Santharam, Director, Rishi Valley Institute of Bird Studies and by Nizhal. For registration: [email protected] or message Natural History www.facebook.com/nizhal.shade or call 90030 98613, 97910 29568, or 9940061810 5.00 p.m. Asian College of Journalism 5 p.m. to 6 p.m. At Nageswara Park August 16-31, 2014 MADRAS MUSINGS 9

G Talk: Chennai Heritage Lecture: Screening of Karan Bali’s feature length August 29 documentary film An American in Madras, on the life of Ellis R Dungan. — Film: Produced by INTACH Chennai, a film on The Story of Madras – Co-hosts: Cinema Rendezvous. The director will be present for there a The First City of Modern India with a recorded talk by city chronicler S. discussion post-screening Muthiah. Copies of the film are to be distributed to schools in Chennai Savera 6.30 p.m. to increase awareness and appreciation of the heritage of the city we live in. The film will be released by the Prince of Arcot, Nawab Mohammed G Heritage Walk: Living Statues of Marina Beach. Brief dramatic enact- Abdul Ali, and screened at the venue. ments of six historical figures (Kannagi, NSC Bose, Thiruvalluvar, GU Pope, Bharathidasan, and Avvaiyar). Tamil and English. If anyone would 5 pm Amir Mahal. By invitation only. like to perform one or more of these characters in the format, for ex- ample, “I am George U. Pope, and this is my story...” contact http:// August 30 www.storytelling institute.org/28.html. You are welcome to modify these — Talk: Madras: Trade, Business and Industry – Yesterday, Today, Tomorrow scripts (and translate them into Tamil). Also, they are invited to recite by Sushila Ravindranath, Consulting Editor, Financial Express, followed or read aloud poetry by Thiruvalluvar, Bharathidasan, and Avvaiyar (in by an open discussion. Organised by Observer Research Foundation. Tamil, and in English translation). No admission fee. Organised by World Intending participants should confirm their interest by email: Storytelling Institute. Contact: www.storytellinginstitute.org [email protected] and also warn-in for lunch. 7.30-8.30 a.m. Meet at the Kannagi Stature, Marina Beach (Bharathi 11 am-1 pm. A1 Towers Salai) 98403 94282 — Talk: Fr. Anand Amaladoss speaks on The Jesuit Presence in Madras at G Competition: Madras: As we see it today, a collage contest organised by the Madras Book Club. Namma Arcot Road. Each team will comprise a child in the 6-10-year Vivanta by Taj at Connemara 7 p.m. Members & guests only age group, and a parent. Contest open to the first 20 teams that register. There is no participation fee. Participants must bring their own materials. August 30 and 31 Call or SMS 99404 10271 to register. G Films: Documentaries on Madras-based artists organised by DakshinaChitra. Golden Flute – Alphonso Arul Doss. 30 mins; Perumal’s August 25 People – P. Perumal. 30 mins. Films by Gita — Workshops: A workshop by the Association of Geography Teachers of DakshinaChitra. 11 am-1 pm India, Chennai Chapter, for taxi and tourist taxi operators and their drivers who are new on the job and are not so familiar with the geogra- August 31 phy and history of the city. Conducted by Balaji and Visvanathan of the AGTI G Heritage Walk: Perambur Meeting Point: Lourdes Shrine. Rs. 500 (in- clusive of breakfast). For registration: Harry MacLure 98413 97502 2-4 pm Srinivasa Gandhi Nilayam, Alwarpet From Lourdes Shrine, Time: 6.30 a.m. Duration: 2 hours G Talk: Chennai Heritage Lecture: My memories of Madras – Veteran art- ist, art director and designer Thotta Tharani speaks G Talk: Art Deco in Madras. Sujatha Shankar, architect, planner and in- The Accord Metropolitan, 6.30 pm terior designer and Convenor, INTACH-Chennai, will speak on the popu- — Quiz: How well do you know your Madras? – A quiz by S. Muthiah for lar international design movement that flourished between the 1920s and Rotary Central and four other clubs. 1940s in India. Savera Hotel, 6 p.m. For members and guests only Residency Towers, T. Nagar, 6.00 p.m. G Film: Bhowani Junction will be screened by The Forum of Anglo-Indian Women. There will be a short introduction by Dr. Beatrix D’Souza on G Walk: Walk in and around the Royal Madras Yacht Club (RMYC), led the Anglo-Indian/Madras connection. by Sriram V followed by sailing tracking the Emden’s course. Fee for 6 pm Ambassador Pallava those who want to leave after walk and breakfast: Rs. 500. Sailing or — Film: An American in Madras. Documentary on Ellis Dungan by Karan motorboat option: Rs. 450 extra. RMYC will organise breakfast, boats, Bali. harbour passes, port permissions and life jackets. Participants are free to 8.00 pm. Madras Club. Members & guests only. stay on at the Club till 5 pm exploring its various trophies, press material and photographs. Snacks, beverages, lunch will be available at RMYC at August 26 extra cost. — Walk: Kapaliswarar Temple Walk for Rotary Club of Madras Temple 7.30 am, RMYC For details [email protected] City. Conducted by Pradeep Chakravarthy 6.30 am. for members only. September 6 Quiz: Madras Quotient Quiz for school teams organised by the Murugappa G Competition: Inter-school contest on What I like in my Madras?, organised Group. Quizmaster: Navin Jayakumar. by United Way Chennai with The Times of India for students in classes 6-12. September 14 The students can express their views through posters, chart work, banners, Run: Chennai Heritage Marathon conducted by the Prastara Trust. thermocol models, graffiti, fabric art, paper craft, woodwork, clay artifcats, Contact [email protected] for further details. photographs, recycled waste-art or any out of the box-medium. They can 6 pm QMC also have an audio-visual, a Power Point presentation or even interactive games/dance and activities on the theme. Till September 28 9.30 am-7 pm Registration from 6 am onwards. Valluvar Kottam G Exhibition: The Urban Story – an exhibition of photographs organised by — Talk: Temples of Chennai, by Chithra Madhavan. Organised by Rotary Apparao Galleries. George K at Sandy’s (Cenotaph Road) and Deidi Club South of Madras. Von Schaewen at Sandy’s (Nungambakkam) Savera Hotel 6.30-8.00 p.m. Members and guests only Other events / opportunities August 27-September 7 ! The British Council holds a daily online blogging competition (August 18-22) on the subject of Madras and World War I G Exhibition: Centenary of the Emden Spirit: 100 Years of Shared Military History, a commemorative exhibition by the Australian Consulate-Gen- ! Literature: Prose, poetry and essay reading (English and Tamil) eral for South India. The story of the German Cruiser Emden which Organised by Alliance Francaise of Madras. shelled Madras in 1914 and was later sunk by the Australion cruiser ! Screen savers for Madras Week: B.R.S. Sreenag, a talented photogra- Sydney. pher of Chennai, has captured various moments in our city's life through Hyatt Regency, Mount Road his lens. He is offering these pictures as screensavers for computers and laptops as free downloads from this link: http://www.sreenagpictures.com/ August 27 calendar-wallpapers.html — Exhibition: Evolution of Tamil Cinema: Down memory lane. Also prize ! City facts: Sriram V, Associate Editor of Madras Musings, has been distribution for music, oratorical, poster and kolam contests held during tweeting facts on the city since the end of July. He hopes to send out 375 the first two weeks of August at Padma Seshadri Bala Bhavan Sr. Sec. facts by end August. Follow him on Twitter - @srirambts or on FB - School, as part of its Madras Week celebrations. www.fb.com/sriram.venkatakrishnan.9 10.30 am. at Padma Seshadri Bala Bhavan Sr. Sec. School, K.K. Nagar. ! Wear Namma Chennai: Pick up a T-shirt and cap commemorating Madras Day. While the tee will feature this year’s winning design – — Talk: Capt. D.P. Ramachandran speaks on The Madras Soldier at the monochrome silhouettes of the city’s landmarks – the cap will be embla- Madras Book Club. zoned with the line Chennai:My city is 375. Designs by the runners-up Vivanta by Taj at Connemara 7.00 p.m. Members and guests only may also be available. Available from August 15, in medium and large 10 MADRAS MUSINGS August 16-31, 2014

size from the website: themadrasday.in opportunity to work on a portfolio project for Navin’s. Organised by Mylapore Times. For more details about the photo contest kindly visit, Navin’s official ! Special Madras dishes Lunch and dinner buffets at Madras Pavilion Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Navins/ and Tiffin Appreciation at Cafe Mercara Express. 366181446727437. ITC Grand Chola. Tel: 2220 0000 G Anna Nagar Social History Group contests ! Savouries made by Maami for Madras Week. Boxed takeaways available. Sheraton Park. Tel: 2499 4101 1. Teams of 2 to 5 persons above 16 years of age to make presentations on how your family moved to Anna Nagar, when, why? How your family ! YoCee runs a news website for children (www.yocee.in) where school history is related to Anna Nagar. students are trained in reporting and writing. The site now plans to get Doubts, queries and registration at [email protected] senior student reporters to do a project on schools in Chennai that are a century and older. A soft launch of the project at an internal meeting 2. For children of 8 to 12 years of age. Start with a four generation (mini- of YoCee is planned during Madras Week. mum) family tree, add pictures, plan of your house (before and now), ! As this is also the 25th anniversary of the C.P.R. Environmental Educa- write stories, add function invitations, postcards, sketches. Add informa- tion Centre, a calendar of paintings and aquatints of Old Madras is being tion on how your family moved to Anna Nagar, when and why and how released. It will be a collector’s item, to be ordered individually or in your family history is related to Anna Nagar, Selected works will be bulk. The money earned will be used to plant and sustain trees – in displayed and felicitated at an exhibition in August. Madras (if some place is found in the city!), or elsewhere in Tamil Nadu. Registration at [email protected] ! Savera Hotel celebrates Madras Week with several food-oriented and G YoCee Contest other activities. Enga area – a photo essay contest for children (online). Open to children Piano, its multi-cuisine buffet restaurant, will showcase Madras Anglo- studying in Classes 7-12. Research the history, heritage and the everyday Indian cuisine at the Madras buffet in a new ambience on August 22nd life of your neighbourhood. Walk down the area and shoot unique fea- at lunch and dinner. Lunch deal (come as 3 and pay for 2, come as 5 and tures, heritage landmarks, historical spots, old houses and anything that pay for 3.) you feel proud of in your area. Malgudi, the southern cuisine a la-carte restaurant brings you the best of Last date: August 20 Send the presentation to [email protected] Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Karnataka and Andhra as well as a special Anglo- Indian menu. August 17th to 24th at lunch and dinner. Login to http://docs.google.com/presentation/with your Google account. Create a presentation of the story of your area in photographs. Add short Bay 146 is organising The Madras Pub Quiz which plans to be a fun descriptions of each photograph in the same slide. Remember to make event. The questions will be about everything you see and hear in and the presentation also visible to the public under the visibility option. around Madras. The Quiz aims at being a fun night of indulgence in Number of slides should not exceed 20. The best three presentations will trivia, food and beverages on August 21, 9 p.m. onwards. The quiz is receive prizes on August 23, 2014. Winners will be informed about the brought to you by Berty Ashle, T.V. Abhinav, Surya Venkat and time and venue through email. Abishek Swaminathan. Cake cutting: A birthday cake wishing Madras on its 375th birthday will Addresses for the venues be cut by all the Savera’s F&B outlets. The cake-cutting is planned for the peak hours when there are the most number of guests at a given time. A1 Towers: Fifth Floor, Conference Hall, 89, Dr Radhakrishnan Salai; Adyar Poonga: Greenway’s Road, gate next to Ambedkar Mani Contests Mandapam; Amethyst: Next to Corporation Bank, White’s Road, Royapettah; Aminjikarai Tollgate: Opp. V. Seshiah Diabetes Hospital Heritage of Chennai – Multimedia Presentation Contest on PH Road; Apparao Galleries (Sandy’s): 2/15, Ganapathy Colony The contest encourages city school students to explore Chennai’s history Main Road, Teynampet and 16/2, Wallace Garden, 2nd Street, and heritage and present the topic given to each team in multi-media Nungambakkam; Art Houz Fine Art Gallery: No 41, Near Onkyo Show- form. room, Kasturi Ranga Road, Alwarpet; Asian College of Journalism: 2nd The contest is on August 19 from 9 am to 3 pm Main Road, Taramani; Avvai Kalai Kazhagam, 15/9, Somu Chetty 4th Theme: A city temple with great heritage and architecture. Street, Royapuram; Chamiers Anokhe: 106 Chamier’s Road, R.A. Puram, (diagonally opposite Sheraton Park); DakshinaChitra: East Coast Road, Venue: Srinivasa Sastri Hall, Luz, Mylapore Muttukadu. Don Bosco School, Casa Major Road, Egmore; Forum Art Please avoid the Sri Kapali Temple, Sri Parthasarathy Temple, Sri Gallery: 57, 5th Street, Padmanabha Nagar, Adyar. Hanu Reddy Resi- Marundeeswarar Temple – because we want presentations on less known dences, Poe’s Garden, Teynampet; Lourdes Shrine: Paper Mills Road, temples. Perambur; The Marina: 39, College Road, Nungambakkam. Mehta Broth- Contest open to schoolchildren studying in Classes 8 to 12. ers: 310, South Mint Street; Mehtaas, 22/9, Raja Annamalai Road; Press The best THREE presentations will be awarded trophies, gifts and Institute of India: Second Main Road, Taramani, CPT Campus, (behind certificates. All participants will be given certificates. The prize giving M.S. Swaminathan Foundation); Roja Muthiah Research Library: 3rd function will be held on the same day at about 4 pm. Cross Road, Rajiv Gandhi IT Expressway, CPT Campus, Taramani, (opposite Indira Nagar MRTS Station); SShilpa Architects, L20, VSI This event is supported by Mylapore Times and the South India Estate, near SRP Tools Junction (OMR), Tiruvanmiyur; SPACES, across National Association (SINA), Luz. from Besant Nagar beach; Studio Palazzo: 14, Harrington Road, Chetpet; G Shoot Chennai – Photo Contest Srinivasa Gandhi Nilayam, Ambujammal Road, close to Alwarpet post office, TTK Road. Srinivasa Shastri Hall, Luz Church Road, Mylapore, The Photographic Society of Madras (PSM) is organising the contest Chennai. Vennirul Art Gallery: CPRAF, Eldam’s Road. for two groups: 1. Students only; 2. Open The themes are as follows: 1) My Madras: The photographer’s personal tribute to Chennai, depicting what it means personally to him or her. Including typical Chennai views like beaches, eat-outs, city life, cityscapes, scenes against which day to day life in Chennai plays out. 2) Monuments of Madras: From the A mobile app for Madras Week architect’s scrapbook, capturing the magnificence of the city’s architec- As the number of events being held for celebrating the ture, from the oldest to Art Deco and the modern architecture of the founding of our city keeps increasing, we at Madras Musings city. 3) Unusual Madras: Strange and unusual happenings in the city. realise that it becomes difficult for many of you to keep abreast. Also the unexpected that breaks tradition and contradicts stereotypes. There may be many events that you may want to be a part of 15th August is the deadline for entries. or you may simply want to know of events that are taking G Navin’s Photo Contest place in your neighbourhood. We are therefore launching a Navin’s, a leading real estate developer is hosting a photo contest mobile app. Developed by Broadgate Technical Inspirational Madras, for all the camera lovers. Participants can send their Services Pvt Ltd, the app has been sponsored by Sundaram entries to Navin’s official id – [email protected] Finance Limited, who have been one of the staunch supporters Participants are expected to focus on capturing utility and functionality of all activities connected with heritage in this city. aspects of landmark buildings across Chennai. Each photograph should be supported with a brief write-up which defines why the building is Titled Madras Week, it is a free download from Android inspirational to the photographer. The entries will be shortlisted and stores and app stores. It is compatible with Android and ios exhibited at a common venue. The winners will be announced on the phones. So go ahead and remain up to date with Madras Madras Day (August 22, 2014) at the exhibition by an eminent jury. The Week events using this app. winners will grab exciting prizes worth over Rs. 15,000 and an attractive August 16-31, 2014 MADRAS MUSINGS 11

Madras Week goes App

● As the number of events be- ing held for celebrating the founding of our city keeps in- creasing, we at Madras Musings realise that it becomes difficult for many of you to keep abreast. There may be many events that you may want to be a part of or you may simply want to know of events that are taking place Penang in your neighbourhood. We are, therefore, launching a mobile Titled Madras Week, it is a app. Developed by Broadgate recalls free download from Android Technical Services Pvt Ltd, stores and app stores. It is com- Madras the app has been sponsored by patible with Android and ios Sundaram Finance Limited, phones. So go ahead and re- birthday who have been one of the main up-to-date with Madras ● staunch supporters of all activi- The photo exhibition Week events using this app. Chennai Nalla Chennai by ties connected with heritage in S.A. Ramesh from Chennai this city. has 68 photographs covering the various facets of Chennai, a city which has a Wear Namma Chennai special resonance in Malay- ● Pick up a T-shirt and cap sia. The exhibition is a visual commemorating Madras Day. feast of Chennai, its way of While the tee will feature this life, customs and people, year’s winning design-mono- landmarks, quirks and what chrome silhouettes of the city’s makes the city tick. The pho- landmarks-the cap will be em- tos capture the soul of the blazoned with the line Chennai: city. Also on display are My city is 375. Designs by the some extraordinary temple runners-up may also be avail- compositions. The exhibi- able. Available from August 15, tion’s title is a take on the in medium and large size from popular 1967 Tamil movie the website. Organised by song Madras Nalla Madras. Mylapore Times.

A WALK IN THE FORT Remember Madras Week

(Continued from page 4) isation” of the city. Do I sound with these screensavers enough like a nose-up-in-the- from him (eminent domain of air NRI? the 18th century?), demolished But I am not one. Everyone I it, and built the present build- know who lives in Madras says ing in the late 1780s. Initially, the same things. And I say this was the Madras Bank, and them, too, because I love Ma- upstairs was the Public Ex- dras. I need it to recharge my change Hall, the hub of all trad- batteries and rediscover my hu- ing activities for several de- manity. I love its gossipy maamis cades. Later still, until the and the jasmine flowers, the 1940s, it served as the Officers’ sense that this is one big village Mess. In 1948 the building was where everyone knows every- made into a museum to house one else, the Kanjivaram pattus numerous colonial-era trea- and the golus, the music season sures. Today, it is a wonderful and Kalakshetra, Dakshina- surprise. Chitra and Murugan Idli Kadai Why do I care so much and (god help my soul) the Ma- ● B.R.S. Sreenag, a talented photographer of about Madras? I was born there. dras Club, the softness and the Chennai, has captured various moments in our I attended school and college graciousness and the kindness city’s life through his lens. there. Most of my close family and the genuineness of the He is offering these pictures as screensavers for members live there. I now live people, the old-fashioned cour- computers and laptops as free downloads from far away in New York, but like a tesy and charm which are still this link: homing pigeon I make my way there, Delhi-isation or not. It is http://www.sreenagpictures.com/calendar- there at least once a year. a mad, crazy, chaotic city, but it wallpapers.html I love the place with an irra- has a real heart and soul. And tional ardour. Irrational, be- this will not vanish. The series of photos is of what is enjoyed in cause, yes, the place drives me I am now certain that what- Madras. A cup of Madras filter coffee with the crazy with its traffic which gets ever else is happening in Ma- morning paper (yes, India beat England at worse every time I go there, the dras, there is a bright nugget of Lords), sundal (a timeless favourite) and, lastly, potholes, the water problems, hope. The Heritage Walk something that Madras has always been famous the pollution, the shenanigans proved that. I know that now for – a temple visit. of its revenge-hungry politi- there are people who care cians, the heat, the mosquitoes, enough for Madras that they the ridiculously ugly buildings will fight tooth and nail to pre- that are sprouting like warts on serve something of the charac- a witch’s nose, the filthy Please check www.madrasday.in and Madras Week App ter and history of the place. beaches, the lack of civic sense, And that is something to cheer for daily update of programmes. the lack of discipline, the grow- about. ing rudeness and the “Delhi- 12 MADRAS MUSINGS August 16-31, 2014

together successive genera- G Rememberring the compiler of ‘Lists of Inscriptions on tions. Like the Pilgrim Fathers, Tombs and Monuments of the Madras Presidency’ who colonised America, our stout-hearted forbears in the Land of Regrets were all of them true-born Englishmen of credit (Current Affairs questions are and renown. Indeed, pioneering from the period July 16th to 31st. would seem to be the peculiar Questions 11 to 20 pertain to J.J. COTTON province of the Anglo-Saxon all Chennai and Tamil Nadu.) the world over. The Scotchman 1. How did an Army officer follows at a later stage in the Dalbir Singh make news on July – Recorder non-pareil race. Our original Cape Mer- 31st? chants, Levant Traders and 2. Name the two Indian woman East India Venturers were typi- weightlifters who started the gold olonial history of India, in- Commission, of which his elder procured, at present there being cal sons of John Bull; men of rush for India at the Common- Csofaras the English are con- brother was for some time Presi- none in Madras which could wealth Games on July 24th. cerned, can be read from the in- dent, it must have been handy possibly answer the purpose.’ It London, Bristol, Devon, and 3. Internationally July 29th was scriptions of the tombstones for him to collect all the infor- is believed that only two copies the Home Counties. As we observed to celebrate which en- which are available in plenty in mation he needed. of this curious book survive, one travel down the centuries, there dangered majestic animal of are associations with many India. In the then Madras, The family had association in the library of the late Arch- which there are only 1706 (2010 Julian James Cotton (1869- bishop Goethals in Calcutta names that have won recogni- census) left in the country? with India in one form or tion at home. A descendant of 1927) in his short life of 58 another for an uninterrupted and the other in the private col- 4. One Life is Not Enough is the years collected tombstone in- lection of Edward Wenger of Cromwell in the person of John autobiography of which former period of 160 years, a fact scriptions and published them the Bengal Secretariat, who has Russell was President at Fort diplomat and External Affairs believed to be without any par- William in the days of Queen Minister that has created big with commentary. In the collec- allel. The connection started lent his copy for the purposes of tion there is mention also of a the present work. The British Anne. Another, Nicholas news for its views on the Gandhis. with Joseph Cotton (1745- Morse ruled as Governor in Fort 5. Which Tata Group company, couple of stones on Indians. Museum possesses a copy only 1825) who, serving the East In- St. George almost at the same on July 23rd, became the first In- of the first volume. Urquhart’s His obituary in The Times, dia Company, made his first time that Milton's grandson, dian company to achieve a mar- London (June 22, 1927) says, voyage in 1769, commanding precursor had been Asiaticus, ket capitalisation of Rs. 5 lakh whose East Indian Chronologist Caleb Clarke, was parish clerk “J.J. Cotton, of the Madras Civil the Indiaman Royal Charlotte; he of St. Mary’s, Madraspatam. In crore? Service, who was a great au- commanded the ship from 1776 (1801) ‘from the commence- 6. How did the Ukrainian village the shadow of the towers of the thority on the history and to 1782. He served from 1795 ment of the East India Trade by of Grabovo make world headlines David and Solomon,’ and High Court sleeps little David, on July 17th? records of British India, died to 1823 as a director of the East the four-year old son of Elihu suddenly in Madras on June 20 India Company. His second Monumental Register (1803) 7. Which legend became only the were printed at the Hircarrah Yale. His father is remembered second Indian, after Kapil Dev, in his 58th year. Mr. Cotton son, John Cotton. (d. 1860), as the founder of an enlight- and the 47th member of the pres- came of a family whose unbro- Press, Calcutta. Many of Asiaticus’ gleanings were repro- ened university and forgotten as tigious Laureus World Sports ken record of Indian service is G by K.R.A. the Governor of a benighted Academy? believed to be unique.” duced in 1815 in M. DeRoza- Narasiah rio’s Complete Monumental Reg- presidency. Every schoolboy 8. Where in Brazil was the latest Julian James was born at knows that Thackeray was the BRICS summit held, where the ister of Epitaphs in or about Krishnagar (Bengal) on Octo- son and grandson of Bengal member-nations agreed to create was in the Madras Civil Service Calcutta. a $100 billion development bank ber 3, 1869, second son of Sir Collectors; but the tomb at Henry Cotton (1845-1915), from 1801 to 1830. His son, Jo- Cotton goes on to write, Ootacamund of Sir Henry and emergency reserve fund? seph John, and the latter’s son, “The history of old Madras is in 9. Italian Vincenzo Nibali won earlier Chief Commissioner of Davison, the Madras Chief Jus- no small measure written upon the 101st edition of which very Assam and, later, a Liberal MP. Henry, followed each other in tice, to whom he dedicated the prestigious Europe-based sporting His elder brother, Sir Evan Cot- the MCC. And then came its tombstones. Especially inter- Virginians, is as unremembered competition on July 29th? ton, was the first President of Henry’s son Julian who repre- esting are the memorials of the as the grave of his uncle.” sented the fifth generation in Company's earliest servants. 10. Which home-grown e-retailer the Bengal Legislative Council This introduction was writ- recently announced that it has direct unbroken succession in They and their families lie under the reformed Constitu- ten by Cotton in 1905. raised funds worth $1 billion (over tion. the service of the Company and buried in every coast town, and Rs.6,000 crore), the largest-ever the Crown (from 1769-1823). often a ruined cemetery is all J.J. Cotton’s other published Educated at Sherborne and by an Indian e-commerce firm? The link continued later too that remains of a famous book is A Book of Corpus Verses Corpus Christi College, Oxford, * * * with his cousin, William Bens- factory. Their Puritan names in which we find a poem on the J.J. Cotton was known, even as 11. In Chennai, what now stands ley Cotton, who was appointed such as Ordonicus and Tryphe- Dutch cemeteries and another a student, for his extraordinary on what was once Osborne House, to the United Provinces Civil na are landmarks which bind mentioning Narasapatnam. qualities in learning. After home of the Rajahs of Service. Venkatagiri? graduation, he was selected for 12. Who was the co-founder of the Indian Civil Service and J.J. Cotton wrote in his col- Vidya Mandir, Vivekananda Col- was posted to Madras, where he lection, “This volume contains lege and MIT? arrived in 1893. a select list of monumental in- VANISHING WATER 13. Founded in the 1960s, Na- scriptions relating to Europeans Most of his service was in the tional Cafe on Mount Road and buried in the Madras Presi- (Continued from page 1) whip on these and get them out judicial branch. He was a first Cafe Zum Zum on Second Line dency. It includes all epitaphs of of the way. That would be good grade District and Sessions Beach are examples of which dis- adults earlier than 1800 and enough as a beginning. We Judge. Known for his meticu- tinct type of tea stalls? such entries of later date as pos- further away. What is clear is would then need to introduce 14. What ‘sound’ institution, now lous handling of records, he was sess historical or local interest. that this is a vicious cycle that strict norms on the wells that on Kamarajar Salai, was inaugu- appointed Curator of the Numerous translations from we would do well to get out of. can be dug and the quota of rated on June 16, 1938 on Madras Records and Editor of foreign languages have been The key to that rests with water that can be consumed by Marshall’s Road by Rajaji, the the Provincial Gazetteer. then Premier of Madras Presi- added, and due attention has the CMDA and the Corpora- each establishment. Let’s face dency? The post had been lying va- been paid towards annotating tion. They do know about the it, we are a water-scarce city. 15. The township of Madras is cant from the end of 1923 when the names of persons and places illegal buildings here to begin The sooner we wake up to that, said to have effectively been born Professor Henry Dodwell left. of importance.” with. They need to crack the the better. The post was revived specially on March 1, 1640. Why? What prompted Julian Cot- for Cotton, to whom the work 16. What do the initials in the ton? He notes, “At the begin- street name T.P. Koil Street in was most congenial. Cotton was ning of the last century an at- Triplicane expand to? known as an authority on the tempt to form a similar collec- HOW SLOW CAN 17. Which institution on history of British and Indian tion was made by William Poonamalle High Road was relations of the period from Urquhart of Madras in his Ori- founded by Alexander Hunter, a 1757. RENEWAL GET? surgeon, in 1850? ental Obituary, printed at the 18. What was established by one His list of inscriptions on Journal Press in 1809. This “Im- (Continued from page 3) Opaque tendering processes, Kanthasamy Mudaliar in 1905 on tombs and monuments in partial Compilation,” as it is outmoded specifications that Bazaar Street in Mylapore? Madras possessing historical or termed in the title page, was have nothing to do with heri- 19. For what profession was/is archaeological interest (first originally projected in three carious state and architects tage conservation, and an Chengam Bazaar (in)famous? published by the Government volumes, but only two were agree that restoring it would be appallingly slow way of func- 20. In 1840, which popular of Madras in 1901) is a mine of published. An advertisement to a tricky exercise if it were to tioning are the principles on Dickensian work got an anony- information and has frequently the first number contains the collapse. which these projects are being mous sequel in The Lighthouse, a been quoted by authors of the But our bureaucracy, with its handled. So what if a heritage Madras-based publication? announcement that ‘Volume II history of Madras. As a member is preparing and will be put to classic sloth, does not appear to building or two (or three or five) (Answers on page 13) of the Indian Historical Records press so soon as paper can be have a sense of urgency. vanishes in the interim? August 16-31, 2014 MADRAS MUSINGS 13 Letters across the seas G More about the Madras pliment. “I have a curious idea My dad and his dear friend years of Everett and Ruth in my mind,” he wrote. Since Patch are now both safe, and Woodman from the blogs of Everett and he felt almost as their correspondence still is, for their daughter. close as family, “Why not realise me, a major treasure. inety-five per cent of Indi it in fact. You know I have a When on July 21, 1954, Nans marry within their grandson, eldest boy of my first Mr. Patch penned his first own ethnic, religious and cul- daughter.” postcard to my dad, he was 71 tural communities, said Dr. The grandson was studying years old, long retired, and a li- Shashi Tharoor, member of the for a Ph.D. at New York Uni- brary cardholder at the United Indian Parliament, in a recent versity. “The boy is fair and nice States Information Service Li- speech to the Indian Institute of to look at, a very calm brary in Madras. My dad, Management in Kolkata. It’s speaker…. Why not think of an Everett Woodman, then 38 fair to guess, also, that a big alliance with a good Brahmin years old, was a cultural affairs percentage – probably most- family? If you think it worth the officer for U.S.I.S. marriages in India are arranged while, you may meet him and “Dear Dr. Woodman,” wrote by parents or family elders. study him. What do you think, Mr. Patch. “Our friend Wandering Americans don’t my old boy. If this is too much Mr. T.V.S. Rao tells me that fit into this picture very often, to think of, you may drop it you carry a very old head on but strange things do happen. A leaving ourselves in status quo. your young shoulder. I wish to Woodstock School alumna told The old tie of Everett and Patch verify if it is so…. Do not laugh of an encounter she had in would be unassunderable.” at my words…I am not suffer- Mussoorie with a breathless My dad wrote back, “You ing (from) dementia praecox. I Mr. Patch and Everett Woodman (right) (Photo credit: Colby-Sawyer middle-aged woman who came know I would have no objection have pieced together…my College Archives) running up to her on the street, to a good Brahmin-Unitarian reflections and I shall bring with Gandhi. accord and not according to our and asked if my acquaintance match, for to me the similarities me a few of them. Let me Back to the correspondence. desire. Boy or girl, each one has would be interested in marrying At one point, my parents were a purpose to subserve in this one of her four sons. awaiting the birth of their world and the parents are only My dad, Everett Woodman, fourth child. The family joke the means to help them in that. had at least two experiences From the blogs of was that my dad wanted a base- We need not discuss any more, related to the marriage mart. Betsy Woodman ball team and instead got a bal- but see the newcomer is facili- Once, in Madras in 1950 he was let troupe. Mr. Patch wrote, “I tated in her further stages till invited to be a go-between in should be very glad to hear by she leaves your roof.” arranging a marriage between are far greater than the differ- explain things more compre- the next mail that brings me a Mr. Patch could be crusty. I two people he knew. The ences, so if you want to con- hensively in person…. Yrs sin- letter, that you have a boy; not guess he figured that his ad- mother of the would-be bride tinue to scheme from Cupid’s cerely, P.A. Thiruvenkata- that I discriminate. As the vanced age gave him the right asked if he would put out feel- corner in Chromepet, give me chari.” rhyme goes, ’tis ever a joy to to be so, and temperament ers to the family of the young your next suggestion and maybe have a boy.” played a role as well. “I am in man. There was a problem – the And he did explain things I can manoeuvre.” Patch himself had two sons the habit of making no mental boy and girl were of different more comprehensively, over the But no introductions were and three daughters. From what reservations of any kind,” he castes – but, nonetheless, my next eighteen years, in at least ever made, no interviews con- he mentions about their educa- wrote. “I speak as it comes out dad cautiously went ahead. No fifty letters and cards. Since ducted with Patch’s grandson. tion, it seems that he really of my mind.” dice! The boy’s parents put the only six carbon copies of letters After that, no more letters came didn’t discriminate in this area. One issue on which he was kibosh on the idea. Eventually, my dad wrote back are in exist- from Patch. A few weeks later, One son was a doctor; so was very outspoken was language. both the boy and the girl mar- ence, most of his replies must be my dad received a letter from one daughter. In the 1950s, his He scorned Hindi. He called it ried people carefully selected by inferred from Mr. Patch’s com- Patch’s son. sixteen-year-old granddaughter a “hybrid Cockney...(with) nei- their families. ments. But the idea comes “My father,” the son wrote, was already headed for medical ther its own characters nor The second experience I through, clear as day, of a very “and your friend, philosopher school, with Patch’s full much literature.” learned about only on reading special friendship between the and guide is no more…. The approval. In his matter-of-fact Patch spoke much more the correspondence of my dad two. end was calm and peaceful…. attitude towards women in kindly about English. “It is with his retired schoolteacher In one of his letters, my dad He was not sick or ailing and medicine, he was decades ahead sweet,” he wrote, “easy to learn, friend, P.A. Thiruvenkatachari, asked Patch for some basic facts maintained his health, poise of many Westerners, including full vocabulary and universal, his dear ‘Mr. Patch.’ about himself. Patch replied: and cheer to the end…. As per my own family. being international...It is God's Patch, a Tamil-speaking “Since you are rather curious to the Hindu almanac, he died at My mom gave birth to her gift for one to know English.” Brahmin, had been married in know the milestones in my the most auspicious hour of the fourth daughter, and Patch Nonetheless, he qualified this. 1900, and certainly in the tradi- life, I should please you by say- most auspicious day of the consoled my parents: “In the “English is a very dangerous tional arranged way. He was ing: I was born on Dec 23, year…. He was conversing with modern world a girl is in no way language...Some words may seventeen years old and his wife 1882…” me till 3:45 AM…it is given a discountable affair nor a boy a mean more than what the was twelve. They were married only to a fortunate few to be by By 1882, the British were countable one. Children come writer means, causing interpre- for seventy-two years, until his the deathbed of divine beings firmly established in India, but into this world of their own tations more than one.” death in 1972. like him.” elsewhere the British Empire In contemporary Indian My dad wrote back immedi- was still growing. It wouldn’t hit slang, ‘Tam-Bram’ connotes ately. Referring to his corre- its peak for another forty years, orthodoxy and adherence to Answers to Quiz spondence with Patch of almost when it ruled over roughly a Hindu tradition. But Patch was twenty years, he said, “The full fifth of the world’s population. a free-thinker, who had an file of his letters to me will When the British finally left 1. He is the new Chief of Army Staff; 2. K. Sanjita Chanu; openness and curiosity and remain a major treasure…his India in 1947, Patch was in his 3. Tiger; 4. K. Natwar Singh; 5. Tata Consultancy Services; 6. sympathy for all people of the every message (was) helpful and 65th year. He saw that empire Malaysian Airlines flight MH-17 was shot down over it; 7. Rahul world. There was a deep intui- inspirational…. Patch lives on and others rise and fall. Dravid; 8. Fortaleza; 9. Tour de France; 10. Flipkart. tive bond between him and my because of his great spirit…he He also lived through a dad, who was thirty-four years * * * was truly a master guru of the dizzying range of inventions, younger. Patch wrote to my highest order. He was also events and transitions: the air- grandfather calling my dad “a 11. Satyam Cinemas; 12. M Subbaraya Iyer; 13. Irani; 14. AIR uncomplicated and of delightful plane, the motorcar, two world model for the present genera- Madras Station; 15. It was the date on which the East India good humour, and the essence wars, the global depression, the tion of youngsters”. To my dad, Company began construction of Fort St. George; 16. Thulasinga of the humane qualities that he atomic bomb, decades of Patch wrote, “You are a good Perumal; 17. Government College of Fine Arts (or the Madras conveyed so naturally to us all. struggle for Indian indepen- BOY.” School of Arts as it was formerly called); 18. The popular I am happy that he is safe, and dence, Independence Day At age eighty-nine, Patch Crown Bakery; 19. It was a traditional red light area; 20. Pickwick enriched by my memories, and (August 15, 1947), and the as- paid my dad the supreme com- Papers. he is in our hearts for always.” sassination of Mahatma 14 MADRAS MUSINGS August 16-31, 2014 Madras fabric hen I went to the Uni got its name after the city.) to their countries to be made Wversity of Strasbourg The Madras handkerchief, into headpieces. When the (France) to pursue my Ph.D. in popularly referred to as ‘the Europeans came to India during the early 1980s, my Guade- Madras’, owes its name to Ma- the Age of Exploration, they loupian-French professor, Ma- dras city. It is indicated in a pa- quickly fell in love with the dame Roberte Bronner, asked per on the Indian contribution local, high-quality cotton me, “Connais-tu que les ‘Madras’ to Guadeloupe and Martinique goods. During the 17th and est largement utilisé lors that the Madras was produced 18th Centuries, the demand for d’occasions formelles en Guade- in a village known as Paliaka the delicate cloth was so high lupe?” (‘Do you know that ‘Ma- and identified as being two that it was considered a pre- dras’ is used extensively during miles northwest of Madras and cious commodity, and was formal occasions in Guade- that the French obtained this shipped over by the boatful!” loupe*?’). I drew a blank. I product from here. I consulted This website refers to karuvela could not answer her question Professor P.J. Sanjeeva Raj, who maram, which is Acacia nilotica either meaningfully or pru- indicated to me that Paliaka is (now Vachellia nilotica). Dr. P. The Madras headwear... and the renaissance panel. dently; so naïve I was. highly similar to Palea Catta, the Ravichandran (Professor of With my current interest in Dutch name of Pulicat Botany, Manonmaniam Sunda- Tartan is particularly associated particularly figured muslins, re- Madras’s cultural history, I (Pazhaverkkadu). He clarified ranar University, Palayam- with Scotland.) I am not sure vived in the late 1800s. The could only now track down an that ‘checked’ cotton fabric was kottai) tells me that the skin whether Madras cotton plaids name ‘Madras muslin’ was answer to Madame Bronner’s were used in making Scottish adopted by the trade reflecting question of the 1980s, which I kilts, although the design is the popularity of this fabric in similar. the export market of Madras. share here. G Dr. A. Raman The Madras fabric was sent In the early- and mid-20th For aesthetic and arts & crafts Charles Sturt University Century, the ‘Madras all-cotton designers, the heritage of fig- to the French Caribbean colo- Orange, New South Wales Australia nies as early as the 17th Cen- lace curtains’ were popular in ured muslin had a particular ap- tury from Madras. French Scotland. But these materials peal. By the early 1880s, Madras women living in Guadeloupe produced in Palea Catta from (=bark) of young stems of Aca- were created using Scottish muslin was popular in the UK and Martinique used the Ma- the 17th Century and the cia nilotica can naturally shred looms. In later years, with the as the ‘simple fabric in vogue’ dras as a headpiece. In recent Dutch exported it to its island into slender fibres used exten- discovery of polyester and and William Morris, an emi- times, the Madras is essentially possessions in the East (now In- sively by Indians in different powerlooms, the production of nent name in this art and trade, reserved for use for decoration donesia) where it was used for ways over the centuries. Barks Scottish cotton lace curtains created delightful patterns for and adornment during special sarongs. Of course, the distance of these trees include secondary was no more 100 per cent cot- this textile. This form of fabric occasions, such as weddings. mentioned as ‘2 miles’ north- plentiful metabolites, such as ton material and came to be has had various names in the That is what Madame Bronner west of Madras does not match, water-soluble tannins, which known as Scottish Nottingham textile trade, including ‘leno- referred to in her question to me although the direction is nearly could have been used in dyeing Laces. The Madras muslin pro- weave muslin’ and ‘leno gauze’. in 1981. The Madras is not only the same. The distance should cotton fabrics in later years. fessed a fine weave with fuzzy Since the early 20th Cen- associated with women of par- be 35 miles and not 2. In the 1700s, more refined edges that soften the design, tury, the Madras muslin has ticular age brackets, but also The following words from block-printed Madras pieces whereas the Nottingham lace been commonly called ‘Madras with many other social dimen- http://roadapparel.com/ with various floral and temple provided precise and sharp lace’. Confusion on technical sions. In modern times, children History.php provide a brief out- motifs and designs came into edges to figures. Both textiles terms caused C.L. Clifford, au- and men also wear trousers and line of the history of the weav- the market. The Scots were can be woven into intricate pat- thor of The Lace Dictionary shorts made of the Madras. I ing industry in Madras: “It is amazed to see the spectacular terns of similar refinement, al- (New York, 1913), to write em- understand that a sort of ‘rum’ believed that the first cloth in ‘tartan’ plaids produced by the though the surface effect that phatically, “Madras, a commer- is also referred to as ‘Madras’ in the Madras region was made of Madras weavers in the 1800s, caught and reflected light dif- cial term for a curtain material, Guadeloupe. The Madras (am- yarn spun from the tip-skin of which came to be known as the fered. Plain and figured muslins not a lace.” J.R. Burrows & ber) rum gets its name after the ancient trees, called karvelem ‘Madras Checks’ in later years. were fashionable fabrics for cur- Company (Massachusetts, ship Madras, a full-rigged boat patta, which have been found at (‘Tartan’ is a pattern consisting tains from the early to the mid- USA) uses the original Victo- built by John Peat & Co. at archaeological sites inhabited of criss-crossing horizontal and 19th Century. Machine lace rian term ‘Madras muslin’ for its Maryport, Cumbria, England, around 3,000 B.C.E. African vertical bands in multiple briefly overtook muslin in popu- products even today. larity in the later quarter of the and launched on August 9, and West Asian importers saw colours. Tartans originated in *Guadeloupe and Martinique are 1827, and not after Madras city. value in Madras cotton in the woven wool, but now they are century but, for high-end deco- islands that are French colonies in (Ed: Though the ship may have 12th Century and brought them made of many other materials. rating, the fashion for muslins, the Caribbean.

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