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Ayutthaya City Island Bicycle Track I the Somdet Phra Sri Nakharin Park Loop by Ken May & Tricky Vandenberg

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Ayutthaya City Island Bicycle Track I the Somdet Phra Sri Nakharin Park Loop by Ken May & Tricky Vandenberg AYUTTHAYA HISTORICAL RESEARCH [AHR] Ayutthaya City Island Bicycle Track I The Somdet Phra Sri Nakharin Park Loop By Ken May & Tricky Vandenberg 2010 WWW.AYUTTHAYA - HISTORY.COM AYUTTHAYA – CITY ISLAND BICYCLE TRACK II (The Somdet Phra Sri Nakharin Park Loop) This bicycle tour has been designed to present the most important sites within Somdet Phra Sri Nakharin Park, which is a surprisingly “unseen” extension of the Ayutthaya Historical Park. This off-the-beaten-track bike route includes territory designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, as well as a few architectural gems along the way. This historic park is situated near the Siriyalai Palace, a modern residence used by Royal family members. Somdet Phra Sri Nakharin Park was set up in honor of the late H.R.H Princess Sri Nagarindra Borommaracha Chonani, the mother of HM King Bhumibol Adulyadey (Rama IX). She was a very beloved woman all over Thailand. The Moken sea nomads in the southern Thai islands still refer to her fondly as Somdet Ya, roughly Royal Grandmother, while Northern hill tribe people called her Mae Fa Luang (Royal Mother of the Sky). She has also been fondly remembered as Princess Mother. She died on 18 July 1995 at the age of 95, and her funeral took place on 10 March 1996. A commemoration monument is set up in the middle of this park. The lush area also contains numerous historical ruins of significant beauty. This bike trek features Khlong Tho (formerly known as Khlong Chakrai Yai) as a reoccurring reference point. This canal was a “khlong chuam maenam” - a dug waterway linking two rivers. The canal was important as it was the primary source of water for the Royal Palace area. It was also a connecting waterway and shortcut between Wat Choeng Tha, in which vicinity the royal barges were stationed, and Wat Phutthaisawan in the south. The tour will take 5-6 hours depending on the time spent at each location point. A few highlights on this itinerary have been listed more for the sake of smoother navigation, although they, too, may appeal to many cyclists as points of interest. Individuals can choose where to stop according to their own tastes and time constraints. Also, note that this bike route could be easily linked to the Ayutthaya Historic Park bike tour (see Route 9 on this website). If you are interested in viewing photographs of the temples in advance or would like additional historic information about these ruins, visit our website at www.ayutthaya- history.com. Tips and Warnings Bicycles can be rented in different locations on Soi 2 Naresuan Rd, which is the starting point of this tour. Bike rental costs 30-40 baht (about $1) per day on average, which makes bike touring an inexpensive way to see the city. Ayutthaya’s terrain is mostly flat and easy to ride, but many streets and side roads are poorly marked, so use the map to simplify navigation. Be cautious as traffic in and around Ayutthaya is sometimes chaotic and dangerous. Motor vehicles often fail to see cyclists and pedestrians, so you must closely watch out for them. Motorcycles are a particularly hazardous cause of local accidents. Dogs and potholes can also be dangerous, especially in remote areas. Weather can be very hot, so make sure to drink plenty of fluids and wear sun block. It is inadvisable to drive at night due to the lack of lighting and occasional recklessness of motor traffic. 2 ©2009 – 2010 Ayutthaya Historical Research All rights reserved. AYUTTHAYA – CITY ISLAND BICYCLE TRACK II (The Somdet Phra Sri Nakharin Park Loop) The theft of bicycles is uncommon in Ayutthaya, but backpacks and cameras have been stolen on rare occasions. It is best to keep valuables with you when visiting the historic sites on route. If you would like some information about lodging and restaurant options, please visit: www.ayutthaya-info.com. Who are we? Ayutthaya Historical Research [AHR] consists of a small group of researchers/writers with the aim to promote Ayutthaya’s cultural heritage. We are local expatriates who have been living in Ayutthaya for many years and would like to share our knowledge with future visitors. Therefore, we have personally tested each of these suggested routes by cycling and/or walking. More information on the authors can be found at: http://www.ayutthaya- history.com/Authors.html In emergency or accident: Contact the Ayutthaya Tourist Police Station: (035) 241-446, (035) 242-352 or 1155. Disclaimer AHR will not be held liable for any loss or damage whatsoever for any suggestions made in relation to the site’s promotion of ecotourism. It is the responsibility of the user of the site to take the necessary precautions to avoid any physical injury, traffic incident, animal attack, theft, and damage to equipment. Any reliance on the site’s information is therefore strictly at your own risk. Read our full disclaimer at website www.ayutthaya-history.com 3 ©2009 – 2010 Ayutthaya Historical Research All rights reserved. AYUTTHAYA – CITY ISLAND BICYCLE TRACK II (The Somdet Phra Sri Nakharin Park Loop) 4 ©2009 – 2010 Ayutthaya Historical Research All rights reserved. AYUTTHAYA – CITY ISLAND BICYCLE TRACK II (The Somdet Phra Sri Nakharin Park Loop) The route Historical signboard in situ is marked as (*) Entry fee required is marked as ($) From the starting point, bike toward Naresuan Road and make a right turn (you may need to walk your bike to the opposite side of the road). Go in the direction west for two blocks. You will arrive at Chikun Road in about 5 minutes. On your right you will see two small chedi and the ruins of a former bridge (Sapan Pathan). This marks the entrance point to the Ayutthaya Historical Park. Stay on Naresuan Road and bike through the intersection. Then take the first right hand turn. This will lead you along the west side of Wat Rachaburana, which will be on the right. On the left, you will also see a little known ruin. This is Wat Suwan Chedi. Wat Suwan Chedi was built in the middle Ayutthaya period, and later restored during the late Ayutthaya period. This ruin includes foundations to several buildings including sermon halls, several tall pillars, and parts of surviving Buddha images. There is evidence that its large bell-shaped chedi had once been layered with precious metals, presumably melted down around the fall of Ayutthaya in 1767. Turn left at the end of the road. This will lead you through the area where elephants stables were once located during the Ayutthaya period. U-Thong road may be a bit busy with motor traffic, but you won’t bike on it for long. The next two reference sites are active Buddhist monasteries, both on the left hand side of the road. They are situated very close to each other. Each is worth a close look, even though we’ve listed them only as Reference Points on this particular route. Note: directly across the street from Wat Yan Saen, on the opposite side of the road, you can see a section of an old water gate). Wat Yan Saen is an active monastery built on boundaries of an ancient site. Its highlight is an elegant and structurally well-balanced chedi similar to late-Ayutthaya period style of Chedi Si Suriyothai (also seen on this tour). Excavations on site revealed a building containing ropes for harnessing elephants. During the 1940s, many artifacts were discovered at this temple, including pottery and a Buddha image in the Lopburi style. Wat Thammikarat is distinguished by its bell-shaped chedi, which is encircled by Khmer- style lions (singh) and graced with multi-headed Naga at its staircases. Other structures include a massive 19 x 53 meters ordination hall, and a building for housing a large reclining Buddha image. A replica of a giant bronze head is also in situ. The original dates to the U- Thong period and is now located at Chao Sam Phraya Museum in Ayutthaya. Wat Thammikarat likely pre-dates the founding of Ayutthaya by King U-Thong in 1351. Northern Thai chronicles state that Phraya Thammikarat, who was son of King Sai Nam Phung, constructed this monastery. Two centuries later, Prince Si Sin, the younger brother of 11-year- old King Yot Fa (who was executed in 1548), was once imprisoned at or near Wat 5 ©2009 – 2010 Ayutthaya Historical Research All rights reserved. AYUTTHAYA – CITY ISLAND BICYCLE TRACK II (The Somdet Phra Sri Nakharin Park Loop) Thammikarat by King Chakkraphat. Prince Si Sin latter launched a surprise attack on the Royal Palace and was killed by gunfire, shortly after forcing King Chakkraphat to flee. As a warning against future rebellions, the prince’s colleagues and some of their wives were executed and impaled next to his body. In addition, in 1758, a revered monk from this temple helped prevent a civil war from breaking out by convincing King Uthumphon to abdicate the throne. Continue biking west on U-Thong Road. On the left hand side you will be able to see the remains of the Royal Palace and a Ratanakosin-period temple named Wat Mai Chai Vichit. At the end of the Royal Palace there will be a canal. This is Khlong Tho (Khlong Chakrai Yai). Turn left and bike south. You will essentially cycle the entire length of this canal. You will see other sections of the Royal Palace on your left and a number of ruins on your right. Bypass these for now because you will return to this area at the end of this bike trek.
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