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Borneo

Brunei Darussalam p208 p50

Sarawak p130

Kalimantan p228

Paul Harding, Brett Atkinson, Anna Kaminski PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to . . . . 4 SABAH...... 50 Sepilok...... 90 Borneo Map...... 6 ...... 52 Archipelago . . . . 94 Deramakot Forest Borneo’s Top 17...... 8 Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park ...... 68 Reserve ...... 95 Need to Know...... 16 Pulau Manukan...... 68 Sungai . . . . 96 First Time Borneo. . . . 18 Pulau Mamutik...... 68 ...... 101 Pulau Sapi...... 69 Danum Valley What’s New...... 20 Conservation Area. . . . . 103 Pulau Gaya ...... 69 . . . 105 If You Like...... 21 Pulau Sulug...... 70 ...... 106 Month by Month. . . . . 23 Northwestern Sabah. . . 70 Semporna Itineraries ...... 26 Mt Kinabalu & Archipelago...... 107 Kinabalu National Park. . . 70 ...... 114 Outdoor Adventures. . . 34 Northwest Coast ...... 79 Tawau Hills Park...... 117 Diving Pulau Sipadan . . . 43 Eastern Sabah...... 84 Sandakan...... 84 Regions at a Glance. . . .. 47 Conservation Area. . . . . 118 BAMBANG WIJAYA /SHUTTERSTOCK © NORMANONG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LOKSADO P258 JANKVITA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ORANGUTAN, TANJUNG STATE PUTING NATIONAL PARK P244 ASSEMBLY P140 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Southwestern Sabah. . . . 120 Tutong & Borneo Today ...... 282 Belait Districts. . . . . 222 Interior Sabah...... 120 History...... 284 Beaufort Division. . . . . 123 Tutong ...... 222 Pulau Tiga Jalan Labi ...... 222 Peoples & Cultures . . . 289 National Park ...... 125 Seria...... 223 The Cuisines Pulau ...... 126 Temburong of Borneo...... 297 District...... 223 Natural World...... 303 Bangar...... 224 SARAWAK...... 130 Batang Duri...... 225 ...... 131 Ulu Temburong Western Sarawak. . . . . 151 National Park ...... 225 SURVIVAL . . . . 152 GUIDE Santubong Peninsula . . . 155 . . . . 228 Semenggoh Responsible Travel. . . . . 314 Wildlife Centre ...... 158 . . . . 232 Directory A–Z...... 316 Annah Rais . . . 158 ...... 232 . . . . 159 Singkawang...... 238 Transport...... 326 Sintang...... 239 Bau & Around...... 161 Health...... 332 Lundu...... 162 Putussibau ...... 240 Language...... 337 Gunung Gading Sukadana...... 242 National Park ...... 163 Gunung Palung Index...... 346 Tanjung Datu National Park ...... 244 National Park ...... 165 Central Kalimantan. . . . 244 Map Legend...... 351 Talang-Satang National Park ...... 166 National Park ...... 244 Batang Ai Region. . . . . 167 Pangkalan Bun...... 247 Central Sarawak. . . . . 168 Kumai...... 249 Sibu ...... 168 Palangka Raya ...... 250 Batang Rejang ...... 172 Sebangau ...... 176 National Park ...... 253 Similajau South Kalimantan . . . . 254 National Park ...... 179 Banjarmasin...... 254 . . . . . 181 Kandangan ...... 257 Lambir Hills Loksado...... 258 National Park ...... 183 East & North Miri...... 184 Kalimantan ...... 259 Northeastern ...... 260 SPECIAL FEATURES Sarawak...... 191 ...... 264 Gunung Mulu Sungai Mahakam...... 267 Outdoor Adventures . . . 34 National Park ...... 191 Muller Mountains. . . . . 273 Kelabit Highlands. . . . . 197 Diving Pulau National Park. . . . 273 Sipadan...... 43 Division...... 204 Berau...... 273 Borneo’s Top Merabu...... 275 Dive Sites ...... 58 Derawan Archipelago. . . . 276 DARUSSALAM . . . . 208 Borneo’s Top North Kalimantan ...... 280 Cultural Attractions . . . 206 Bandar Seri Begawan. . . . 210 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 26 FADHLI ADNAN/SHUTTERSTOCK©

Plan Your Trip Itineraries

S O U T H Santubong C H I N A Kuching •# S E A Wetlands Peninsula Gunung Gading National National Park Bako

Park #÷ É National

#÷ #÷ Park É

É É

É É É

•#

É Kuching É É

•# É •# Semenggoh SARAWAK Wind Cave Wildlife Centre

Fairy Cave É

KALIMANTAN •# Annah Rais

1 WEEK Kuching Excursions

city’s spectacular Darul Hana pedestrian Borneo’s most sophisticated city is bridge to the English Renaissance–style surrounded by first-rate nature sites . Inside the fort the excel- that can easily keep you occupied for a lent Brooke Gallery presents the thrill- week or more. A renewed focus on the ing story of the Brooke dynasty, while heritage of the Brooke family, Sarawak’s back across the river, the Ranee Museum White Rajahs from 1841 to 1946, is ­presents the fascinating life of Margaret, showcased in Kuching’s interesting Lady Brooke and Ranee of Sarawak. End the day with a sunset stroll along galleries and museums. Kuching’s Waterfront Promenade, stopping to snack at the various food stalls along Spend your first day in Kuching, tuning into the vibe of the city’s kaleidoscopic mix the route. If a giant rafflesia flower hap- of cultures and cuisines. After exploring pens to be in bloom in Gunung Gading the narrow streets of Old Chinatown, ride National Park, drop everything and rush a tiny passenger ferry or walk across the over before it starts to spoil. On the way 27 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es

Darul Hana bridge (p131), designed by Ng Chun Chien and Kamal Fozdar, and Indian (p138), Kuching, Sarawak back explore the Wind Cave and Fairy cheeky macaques and pitcher plants. For Cave, near the provincial town of Bau. the best opportunity to experience Bako, Back in Kuching experience the flavours stay at least a night at the national park’s of Sarawak’s indigenous communities at simple but comfortable accommodation Lepau restaurant, before plugging into the and spend a day or two hiking around the city’s after-dark energy in the bars around peninsula. Back in Kuching balance the Jalan Wayang. ledger between relaxation and exercise by enjoying more of the city’s fine eateries Be sure to also allow half a day to spot and buzzing nightlife. at Semenggoh Wildlife Centre, then drive further inland to the On your final day relax on the beach longhouse community of Annah Rais, or enjoy fresh seafood around the Santu- where you can stay overnight before bong Peninsula, then spend the sunset returning to Kuching. From here take a hour on a cruise around Kuching Wet- bus then a boat to Bako National Park, lands National Park, keeping alert for keeping an eye out for proboscis monkeys, fireflies and crocs. 28 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es

•# Pulau Banggi S O U T H É

C H I N A É f# S E A Tip of Borneo •#

É É

•#

S U LU S E A Tunku Abdul É Rahman É National Park ÷# R

•# •# Hot Springs É É Kota Kinabalu Mt Kinabalu •# Sandakan (4m) ÷# •# Sepilok Deramakot É Forest Reserve Sungai •#

Kinabatangan É Orou •#

Sapulot saa É

•# Maliau Basin Conservation Area C E L E B E S S E A saraa Tawau

Hills IIInes

É Semporna Park É •# •#•# Softwoods f# Semporna Plantation •# •# aIantan Tawau Archipelago 29 YUSNIZAM YUSOF/SHUTTERSTOCK© 3 WEEKS Sabah Loop

Strolling city streets, climbing tall peaks, TRIP YOUR PLAN relaxing on beaches, hiking through rainforest and diving deep into the ocean – most highlights can be covered in a three-week trip.

Arrive in Kota Kinabalu (KK) and spend a couple of days exploring. Visit the Sabah Mu- seum to get a taste of Borneo’s indigenous cul- tures, sample the city’s diverse dining scene at It i nerar the A-Square Night Market and elsewhere and spend a day island hopping and possibly diving in Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park. i es Next, head to the Tip of Borneo for a ­couple of days of relaxing on beaches and visit- ing friendly Rungus villages, with an extra day or two if you want to visit remote Pulau Banggi and the caves and beaches of adjoin- ing islands. If you have your own wheels and are set to climb Mt Kinabalu, you can drive to Mt Kinabalu National Park via a new road from Kota Marudu. Allow two or three days for the mountain – there’s the climb itself, and the day of rest you’ll need afterwards, which you can spend around Poring Hot Springs. Give yourself three days at Deramakot For- est Reserve for some excellent wildlife-spotting

LANOLAN/SHUTTERSTOCK © opportunities before heading to Sandakan for a day’s exploration of the city’s historical sights and to sample its great seafood. Next, spend a day watching orangutans and sun bears at Sepilok before heading to the Sungai Kina- batangan for two days of river cruises and more glimpses of Borneo’s fabled wildlife. Head south to Semporna for some of ­Borneo’s best diving in the Semporna Archi- pelago, then chow down on Sabah’s best seafood in Tawau. Finally spend a couple of days looking for pygmy elephants and other wildlife on the Softwoods Plantation and in Tawau Hills Park. If not a diver, skip Semporna and spend four to five days exploring Borneo’s ‘Lost World’ in the Maliau Basin Conservation Area be- fore returning to KK. If you’re more into indigenous culture than nature, an alternative to the Maliau Basin is a three- to four-day stay at Orou Sapulot, im- Top: (p52), Kota Kinabalu, Sabah mersing yourself in Murut culture, swimming Bottom: Hawker stall (p63), Kota Kinabalu, Sabah in waterfalls and trekking in the jungle. 30 ANNA TUTAK/SHUTTERSTOCK© 3 WEEKS Kuching to Brunei

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN This trip across Sarawak and Brunei by road, river and air passes through remote rainforests and modern urban centres.

Fly into Kuching and spend a few days ex- ploring this multicultural city, delving into its cuisine scene for breakfast (Sarawak laksa), lunch and dinner. Take day trips to nearby It ­national parks in search of orangutans, probos- i nerar cis monkeys­ and exotic flora. Then hop on the express ferry to the river port of Sibu – don’t miss the Foochow specialities on offer in the i es vast Central Market and the river city’s excellent night market. Sibu serves as the gateway to the mighty Batang Rejang (Rejang River). Board an early morning express boat and head upriver to ­ , a bustling trading centre founded in the days of the White Rajahs. If the river level is high enough, continue on to back-of-beyond Belaga­ , jumping-off point for hikes to a num- ber of . A jarring 4WD ride will get you down to the coastal city of Bintulu, Borneo’s natural-gas capital. Avoid the city centre and head straight to the beaches, rainforest trails and bungalows of .

Hop on a bus heading northeast to Batu Niah THAMKC/SHUTTERSTOCK © Junction, situated just a few kilometres from the vast caves, chirping bat colonies and pre- historic archaeological sites of Niah National Park. Next stop is the shiny petroleum city of Miri, home to some excellent dining options. Chilling here amid mod cons is a great way to spend a day or two before flying into Borneo’s interior for a few days – prepare to be wowed by the epic caves and pinnacles of Gunung Mulu National Park and the indigenous hospitality in the gorgeously green Kelabit Highlands. After flying back to Miri take a bus to Bandar Seri Begawan, the surprisingly laid- back capital of the tiny, oil-rich sultanate of Brunei. Several museums showcase Bruneian culture, and international culinary creations can be enjoyed at BSB’s numerous excellent res- taurants and hawker centres. End your Bornean odyssey by taking a speedboat, a car and finally a longboat to the pristine jungle of Ulu Tembu- rong National Park. Top: Rice field, Kelabit Highlands (p197), Sarawak Bottom: Sarawak laksa (p300) 31 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es

BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN #_

rneI É arssaa saa É #÷ Miri•# lu Temburong

S O U T H National Park C H I N A Niah É

S E A #– #÷ Gunung Mulu National É É Park #÷ National Park #– É Similajau É National •# Park #÷ Kelabit Bintulu •# Highlands

•# Orang Ulu É Longhouses

saraa •#Belaga

Sibu É É •# f# f# É Kapit f# •# É aIantan Kuching •# 32 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es

Pulau Derawan Derawan

•# saraa É É •# Archipelago Berau•# •#

É Pulau Danau Sentarum •# Maratua

National Park Merabu É ÷# •# Putussibau É É Kutai #– Pontianak É #– •# National Park ÷#

aIantan Muara Muntai •#

•# •# •#

Mancong •# É Samarinda É f# É

•#

#– É Balikpapan

É t

i É Pangkalan a r Meratus t Bun S •# Mountains r a saesI ÷# •# s •# •# Loksado s Kumai Sebangau a

k National Park É Kandangan a ÷# Banarmasin•# M Tanjung Puting National Park 33 SERGIY BORAKOVSKYY/EYEEM/GETTY IMAGES © 4 WEEKS Around Kalimantan

Kalimantan is big and cloaked in jungle, with TRIP YOUR PLAN many places accessible only by boat. With a bit of planning, however, it’s possible to pack a great deal into a four-week journey.

Start at Balikpapan before flying to Berau. From there explore the nearby Derawan Ar- chipelago, home to some world-class diving. Spend the night swapping stories with travel- It i nerar lers on Pulau Derawan, or head to the little-­ touristed outer islands such as Pulau Maratua or the resort islands of Nabucco and Nunukan. i es Once back in Berau, head south via karst mountains and the village of Merabu to Kutai National Park, where chances of spotting a wild are high. Continue on to riverside Samarinda, gateway to the Sungai Mahakam () and home to an eye-popping mosque. Head upriver by kapal biasa (public boat) via Tenggarong, with its resplendent keraton (), to Muara Mun- tai at the centre of the lake country, where you can hire a gaily coloured ces (longtail canoe) for an unforgettable backwater journey across Lake Jempang to Mancong. Continue up or down river – the kapal biasa goes as far as Long ­Bagun – before returning to Balikpapan. Take a bus south to the pleasant market ARDIWEBS/SHUTTERSTOCK © village of Kandangan, from where you can visit the water buffalo herders of Negara. Or hop on a pickup truck bound for Loksado, a quiet hamlet in the foothills of the Meratus Mountains, where you can equally enjoy hiking, bamboo rafting or simply relaxing. Continue on to Banjarmasin and visit the floating market in the early hours before travelling to Palangka Raya and the peat swamps of Sebangau Na- tional Park. Next stop is Pangkalan Bun or Kumai, the bases for visiting Tanjung ­Puting National Park, where you can cruise - gai Sekonyer in search of wildlife and watch orangutans feed at one of ’s most popular ape-spotting destinations. With your final week, fly north via Pon- tianak to Putussibau to visit Kalimantan’s oldest longhouses and least-explored forests in the wild Kapuas Hulu, before capping off your tour by floating thorough the stunning seasonal Top: Balikpapan (p260), Kalimantan wetlands of Danau Sentarum National Park. Bottom: Floating market, Banjarmasin (p254), Kalimantan ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 344

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

David and Lian (x2) made visiting Bario an OUR READERS absolute highlight. Also in Bario it was good to Many thanks to the travellers who used meet the Mild Men of Borneo, Alasdair, Jason the last edition and wrote to us with and Giles. Cheers also to Mr Lim, Daniel and ­helpful hints, useful advice and interesting Jason Brooke. Final thanks to Tanya Parker anecdotes: at Lonely Planet and my Borneo co-authors Aiwyne Foo, Alba Genoves, Alex Lloyd, Andy Anna and Paul. Ashton, Erik Faarlund, Gary Chow, Marcus Feaver, Ping Tep, Rico Gujjula, Veronique van Anna Kaminski Bruggen Huge thanks to Tanya for entrusting me with Sabah and Brunei, and to everyone who’s helped me along the way. In particular: Thanis WRITER THANKS Lim and Leslie in BSB; William, Wendy and Tom in KK; Shavez in Tawau Hills; Itisha and Paul Harding Simon in Lahad Datu; Howard at the Tip of A big thanks to the many gracious and helpful Borneo; Anton and Linn in Sandakan; Wong in Indonesians I encountered on the road in Kali- Sepilok; Sitti in Deramakot; Afiq on the Kina- mantan, including Denny in Pontianak, Agung, batangan; and my guides on Mt Kinabalu, in Kipli and Arly in Sintang, Bona Ventura, Liesa, the Danum Valley and Tabin Wildlife Reserve. Majid and the crew at Kumai, Tailah, Yayat and Wenny, Meiling in Balikpapan, Budiyono and Danielle. Most of all, thanks to Hannah and ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Layla for the regular phone calls and enduring Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, patience. Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Brett Atkinson World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate ­Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System In Kuching, terima kasih to Donald and Sciences, 11, 1633–44. ­Marina, Wayne, Danny and Purdey, and thanks to Louise in Santubong. Around Batang Ai, Cover photograph: Danum Valley, Manakin/ Bading effortlessly led the way, and Lucy, Getty ©. BEHIND THE SCENES

Sarah Sarah Brooke Brooke Martin Martin Heng, Wibowo Wibowo Rusli Thanks to Andi Jones, Alicia Johnson, Niamh Martine O’Brien, Power, James Eleanor Smart Simpson, Book Designer Designer Book Giacomin Assisting Editors Andrew Bain, Melanie Bailey, Dankel Assisting Cartographers Julie Dodkins Hunor Csutoros, Researcher Cover

­­

Julie Regional Regional Senior Cartographer ­Sheridan book was produced by the the by produced was book following: Destination Editor Parker Tanya Editor Product Senior Kate Chapman Product Editor Carolyn Boicos - guidebook guidebook Borneo previous edition ­previous was Richard Waters. This guide Waters. Richard wrote it along with Brett Brett with along it wrote Kaminski. Anna and Atkinson The by written and researched Bell Loren Isabel Albiston, and This This 5th edition of Lonely ­Planet’s was curated by Paul Harding, and researched also who THIS BOOK ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 346

Index

A activities 215 Belait 222-3 food 208, 226 Abai 100-1 drinking & nightlife 218-19 Berau 273-5, 274 highlights 209 accessible travel 316 emergencies 219 betang 241 holidays 227 accommodation 316-17, see entertainment 219 Betung Kerihun National legal issues 227 also individual locations food 216-18 Park 240 LGBT+ travellers 227 language 338 internet access 219 bicycle travel 328-9 money 226 activities 23-5, 34-42, see medical services 220 Bilit 99 postal services 227 also individual­ activities money 220 Bintulu 176-9, 178 telephone services 227 air travel 20, 326, 328 postal services 220 birds 309, 39 time 227 ambuyat 217 shopping 219 birds nests 97 tourist information 227 amusement parks 214 sights 210-14 bird-watching travel seasons 208 animals 21, 75, 305, telephone services 220 Danum Valley visas 227 306-9, 314-15, see tours 215 ­Conservation Area 104 women travellers 227 also ­individual species travel to/from 220-1 Gunung Mulu Buddhist temples, see also Annah Rais Longhouse 158-9 ­National Park 191 travel within 221-2 temples area codes 322, 323 Labuan Bird Park 127 Bangar 224-5 Puh Toh Tze Buddhist art galleries, see museums boat travel 269, 328, 329, 331 Temple 55-6 & galleries Banjarmasin 254-7, 255, 32-3 boat trips Puu Jih Syh Temple 85 ASRI 243 bargaining 19 Bako National Park 153-4 budget 17 ATMs 320, 321 Bario 198-202 Bandar Seri Begawan 215 bus travel 329-30 Batang Ai 167-8 Kuching 140 business hours 321 B Batang Duri 225 Sabah 97-8 Ba Kelalan 203-4 Similajau National Park 179 Batang Rejang 172-6 C Sungai Mahakam 267-8 Bahasa Indonesia 337-43 bathrooms 323 canopy walks 104 body art 294-5 Bahasa 337-43 bats 182 car travel 330-1 books 282 Bako National Park 152-5 Batu Punggul 123 cats 139 bird-watching 309 Bakun Dam 176 Bau 161-2 caves culture 290, 291 Balikpapan 260-4, 261, 32-3 Bawang Assan Longhouse Agop Batu Tulug 96 environment 303 accommodation 260-1 Village 168 Clearwater Cave 192 health 332 drinking & nightlife 263 beaches 192 travel literature 42 food 261-3 Kemala Beach 260 Fairy Cave 162 information 263 Pantai Seri Kenangan 222 border crossings 327 Gomantong Caves 96-7 shopping 263 Peranginan Pantai Muara Brunei Darussalam 129, Great Cave 181, 182 214 190, 220, 221 sights 260 Lang Cave 192 Pulau Libaran 95 Indonesia 117, 150, 203 tours 260 Langang Cave 193 Pulau Mamutik 68 Malaysia 238, 280 travel to/from 263-4 Painted Cave 181 Pulau Manukan 68 Brooke, James 285-6 travel within 264 Pungiton Caves 123 Pulau Sapi 69 Brunei Darussalam 48, bamboo chicken 299 Wind Cave (Bau) 161-2 56, 64 ­208-27, 283, 209 Bandar Labuan 126-9, 127 Wind Cave (Gunung Mulu accommodation 208, 227 Bandar Seri Begawan Tempurung 124 National Park) 192 budgeting 226-7 ­210-22, 212 Tip of Borneo 81 caving 22, 38, 40, 162, 193 climate 208 accommodation 215-16 bearded pigs 308 cell phones 322-3 embassies & consulates bears 91 cemeteries 318-19 Beaufort 123-4 Chinese Cemetery 85 emergencies 227 Map Pages 000 Beaufort Division 123-5 Japanese Cemetery 85 etiquette 314 Photo Pages 000 Belaga 175-6 127 347 Cempaka Diamond Miri 184 H homestays 100, 317 Fields 254 Pulau Sipadan 14, habitats 304-5 hydroelectric dams 311-12 Central Kalimantan 244-54 43-6, 45 Hari Raya Aidil Fitri 211 children, travel with 318 responsible diving Hari Raya Puasa 24 health 336 46, 315 I Harvest Festival 23-4, 24 Iban tattoos 295 Chinatown, Kuching 137-8, Semporna Archipelago headhunting 294, 296 Imbak Canyon

139 14, 107, 58 INDEX health 332-6 ­Conservation Area Chinese cuisine 301 Tanjung Datu National heatstroke 335 20, 95 Chinese New Year 23 Park 165 Tip of Borneo 81 hiking 21, 35-8 immigration 324-5, 326

Chinese people 206  C-K dolphins 268 Bako National Park immunisations 332 churches 153-4  driving 330-1 independence, Brunei 288 St Michael’s & All Angels Batang Ai National durian fruit 302 independence, Malaysia Church 85-6 Park 167 287-8 Dutch influence 286 climate 16, 23, 24, 25, see Bukit Kelam 239 indigenous culture 21, also ­individual regions Cross-Borneo Trek 14, 289-96 climbing 38 E 233, 14 indigenous cusines 297-300 coffin caves 96 259-80 Danum Valley indigenous land rights 296 conservation 243, 279, ecology 304-5 ­Conservation Area Indonesian language 337-41 311, 312 economy 282-3 103-11 insect bites & stings 335 consulates 318-19 electricity 318 guides & agencies 35-6, insurance 319, 332 cooking courses 57, 141 194, 200 elephants 307-8 internet access 319 coral reefs 304 Gunung Gading National embassies 318-19 internet resources 17 costs 17, 317, 319 Park 163-4 emergencies 339-40, environmental issues 312 credit cards 320, 321 Gunung Mulu National see also individual health 332 crocodiles 179 Park 191-5, 37 locations ironwood 308 culture 21, 206-7, 289-96 Kelabit Highlands 202-3 environmental issues 252, Islam 206 currency 320-1 295, 309-12 Kota Kinabalu 56, 57, 60 Islamic Center 264 customs regulations 318 ethnic groups 283, 289-91 Kubah National Park 160 itineraries 26-33 cycling 328-9 etiquette 19, 293, 314 Lambir Hills National events 23-5 Park 183 exchange rates 17 204 J D Jalan Labi 222-3 dams 292, 311-12 Loksado 258-9 Jantur 270 Danau Sentarum National Maliau Basin F Jerudong 214 Park 242 ferry travel 328, 329 ­Conservation Area 118 jungle trekking 35-8, see dangers, see safety Matang Wildlife ­Centre festivals 23-5 also hiking Danum Valley Conservation films 282, 292 161 Area 11, 103-5, Merabu 275 11 floating markets 256, 32-3 Darul Hana Bridge 131, 26-7 food 297-302, see also Mt Kinabalu 71-5, 19 K Dayak cuisines 297-300 individual locations Niah National Park 181 Kaharingan 294 289-96 costs 319 pre-trip preparation 37-8 Kalimantan 48, 228-80, 309-10 language 338-9 Samarinda 264 230-1 dehydration 334-5 forests 304-5 Similajau National accommodation 228 dengue fever 333 Park 179 climate 228 Deramakot Forest Reserve Sungai Kinabatangan 96 consulates 319 15, 20, 95-6, 15 G Tanjung Datu National etiquette 314 gado gado 116 Derawan Archipelago 12, Park 165 food 228 galleries, see museums & 276-9, 12 Ulu Temburong National highlights 230 galleries diarrhoea 335-6 Park 226 history 229 24, 290 disabilities, travellers historic buildings & sites indigenous groups 290-1 gay travellers 320 with 316 Astana 140 money 321 geography & geology 70-1, diving & snorkelling 58-9, Eheng 271 telephone services 323 58-9 303-4 Old Court House travel seasons 228 Bandar Seri Begawan gibbons 307-8 ­Complex 136 travel to/from 229, 232 215 gift giving 293 Sandakan Memorial Derawan Archipelago government 282-3, 288 Park 84-5 visas 325 276-7 Gunung Bengoh 162 Sendawar Ethnographic wildlife 229 health 334 Gunung Mulu National Park Museum 271 Kampong Ayer 210-11, 22 80 9, 191-7, 5, 8-9, 22, 37 history 70, 131, 284-8 Kampung Benuk 159 Kota Kinabalu 56-7 Gunung Palung National hitching 331 Kandangan 257-8 Labuan 127-8 Park 244 holidays 321-2 Kapit 173-5, 174 348 Kelabit Highlands 11, travel within 151 medical services 332-3, Bako National Park ­197-204, 30-1 visas 149 see also individual ­Interpretation Centre 122 Kuching Wetlands National locations 152 kerangas 304 Park 157 mee jawa 116 Brunei Darussalam kidnappings 112 80-1 Melak 271-2 ­Maritime Museum 213 Kinabalu National Park Kumai 249-50 Merabu 275-6 Brunei Museum 212-13

INDEX INDEX 70-8, 39 Kutai National Park 273 Miri 184-91, 186 136 Kinabatangan Orangutan mobile phones 322-3 Dusun Museum 121 Conservation Project money 17, 317, 319, 320-1 (KOCP) 97 L Forestry Museum 223 ,K-M monkeys 92, 125, 154, 307  Lahad Datu 101-3 12, 315, 41 Fort Margherita 140

Lake Jempang 270-1 ,96-101  12 monuments & memorials 173 klotok travel 246 language 337-41 Billionth Barrel Islamic Heritage konfrontasi 288 Layang Layang 83-4, 58-9 ­Monument 223 Museum 138 Kota Bangun 269-70 leeches 36, 103 Great Cat of Kuching 139 Istana Kadriah 233 Kota Belud 80 legal matters 319 Kucing Kucing 139 Jasa Menenun Mandiri 239 Kota Kinabalu 52-67, 54, leptospirosis 333 War 28-9 LGBT+ travellers 320 ­Memorial 78 Junglebluesdream Art Gallery 198 accommodation 60-2 Limbang Division 204-5 Memorial Stone 124 Kampong Ayer Cultural activities 56-60 literature 42, see also Pialungan ­Sandakan- & Tourism Gallery cuisine 62 books 211 drinking & nightlife Loksado 12, 258-9, 2, 12 ­Memorial 78 Labuan Marine Museum 64-5 Long Bagun 272-3 Sunsuron Guritom 121 126-7 emergencies 65 Long Pasia 121 Tom Harrisson Labuan Museum 126 food 62-4 longhouses 13, 241, 291-4, ­Monument 198 Lau King Howe Memorial 317, Tugu Khatulistiwa 233 medical services 65 13 Museum 168 Annah Rais Longhouse money 65 Limbang Regional 158-9 postal services 65 City Mosque (Kota Museum 204 Bario Asal Longhouse Kinabalu) 53-4 shopping 65 Malay Technology 197 sights 52-6 Indian Mosque 138, 26-7 Museum 211-12 Batang Rejang basin 180 tourist offices 65-6 Islamic Center 264 Mari Mari Cultural Bawang Assan tours 56-60 Masjid Agung At-Taqwa Village 53 ­Longhouse Village 168 260 travel to/from 66-7 Matang Wildlife Centre Belaga 175 Masjid Sultan Suriansyah­ travel within 67 Interpretation Centre Labi Longhouses 222-3 254 161 Kubah National Park Lundu 162-3 Mesjid Abdurrahman 233 159-61 Monsopiad Cultural Mesjid Raya Sabilal Village 54-5 Kuching 11, 131-51, 134­ -5, Muhtadin 254 Mulawarman Museum 11, 26-7, 206-7 M Mosque (Semporna) 106 268 accommodation 142-4 macaques 154 Omar Ali Saifuddien Mulu Discovery Centre activities 140-1 malaria 333-4 Mosque 210, 207 191 drinking & nightlife 147 Malay cuisine 300-1 motorcycle travel 330-1 Museum Balanga 250 embassies & consulates 337-41 mountain climbing 38, 71-5 Museum Kapuas Raya 148 Maliau Basin Conservation mouse deer 309 239 emergencies 148 Area 9, 118-19, 9 Mt Kinabalu 10, 70-8, 73, Museum of Islamic festivals & events 141-2 Mancong 271 76, 10, 19 Civilisation 55 food 144-7 305 accommodation 75-7 Museum Provinsi medical services 149 maps 320 ­Kalimantan Barat 233 climbing 71-5 money 149 Maratua Atoll 12, 278-9, Natural History Museum 12 flora & fauna 75 postal services 149 markets 298 139 food 77 safety 148 Bau 162 Niah Archaeology geology 70-1 shopping 147-8 Kapit 173 Museum 181 history 70 sights 131-40 Kota Kinabalu 20, 52 Oil & Gas Discovery planning 71 Centre 223 tourist offices 149 Kuching 140, 146 travel to/from 77-8 Petroleum Museum tours 141 Miri 184 Mt Trusmadi 121-2 (Miri) 184 travel to/from 149-50 Pasar Malam Hongkong Muara Muntai 270 Ranee Museum 20, 136 238 Muller Mountains 273 Royal Regalia Museum Pasar Terapung 210 Kuin 256 museums & galleries Rungus Museum 81 Map Pages 000 measures 320 84 53 Photo Pages 000 media 320 Art Museum 139 349 Sabah Museum 52-3, Lambir Hills National Palangka Raya 250-3, Pulau 279 28-9 Park 183 250-1 Pulau Kapalai 113 Sarawak Cultural Village Luagan Lalak Recreation palm-oil plantations 310-11 Pulau Labuan 126-9 155-6 Park 222 Pa’Lungan 200-1 Pulau Lankayan 95 Sarawak Museum 138 Maliau Basin Pampang Dayak Pulau Libaran 95 ­Conservation Area 9, Sarawak Textile Museum ­ceremonies 267 Pulau Mabul 14, 112, 118-19, 9 14

137 INDEX Pangkalan Bun 247-50, Pulau Mamutik 68-9 Sibu Heritage Centre 168 Niah National Park 181-3 248 Pulau Mantanan 82-3 Similajau National Park Pulau Selirong parks & gardens Interpretation Centre ­Recreational Park 225 Pulau Manukan 68

Botanical Garden  M-S Pulau Mataking 113-14 179 Pulau Tiga National Park (Kinabalu National 125-6 Pulau Pom Pom 114  music festivals Park) 78 Borneo Jazz 185 Rainforest Discovery Miri City Fan 184 Pulau Sangalaki 279 Centre 91-2 Rainforest World Music Orchid Garden 140 Pulau Sapi 69 Sebangau National Park Festival 142 Rejang Esplanade 168 Pulau Satang Besar 166 253-4 Taman Peranginan Pulau Selingan 94 Similajau National Park Tasek 214 Pulau Sipadan 14, 43-6, N 179-81 45 nasi kuning 116 passports 324, 325, 326 Talang-Satang National Pulau Sulug 70 national parks & nature Park 166-7 291 Pulau Talang-Talang 166 reserves Taman Arboretum Sylva Peranakan cuisine 298 Putussibau 240-2 Bako National Park 232 photography 321 152-5 Rafflesia piercings 295 Batang Ai National Reserve 120-1 pineapples 202 R Park 167 Tampat Do Aman Nature planning rabies 334 Betung Kerihun National Reserve 81 activities 34-42, 43-6 rafflesias 120, 306 Park 240 Tanjung Datu Borneo basics 16-17 rafting 40-2 Bukit Gemok Forest ­National Park 165-6 Borneo’s regions 47-8 Beaufort 124 Reserve 114 Tanjung Puting National budgeting 17 Kota Kinabalu 57, 60 Bukit Mas Nature Park 10, 244-7, 2, 10 calendar of events 23-5 Loksado 12, 259, 12 Reserve 204 Tawau Hills Park 117-18 family travel 318 Rainforest World Music Bukit Patoi Recreational Tunku Abdul Rahman Festival 25 Park 224 National Park 68-70 first-time visitors 18-19 rainforests 305 Crocker Range National Ulu Temburong National internet resources 17 Park 120 Park 15, 225-6, 15 itineraries 26-33 Ramadan 227 Danau Sentarum newspapers 320 repeat visitors 20 Ranau 78 National Park 242 Nonya cuisine 298 travel seasons 16, 23, religion 283, 294 Danum Valley North Kalimantan 259, 280 24, 25 responsible travel 314-15 ­Conservation Area plants 75, 229, 305-6 rhinos 308 103-5, notable buildings 11 politics 282, 288 rice 202, 297-8 Deramakot Forest 52 pollution 312 rice wine 299-300 ­Reserve 15, 20, Kuching North City 95-6, 15 Hall 140 Pontianak 232-8, 234 river tips 12, 21-2, 40-2 fees 232 Sarawak State ­Assembly accommodation 234 Romol Eco Village 123 Gunung Gading 140, 2 drinking & nightlife 236 ­National Park 163-5 festivals & events 234 S food 236 Gunung Mulu O Sabah 47, 50-129, 51 ­National Park 9, 191-7, oil 283 shopping 236 accommodation 50 5, 8-9, 22, 37 opening hours 321 sights 232 climate 50 Gunung Palung National tours 233-4 Park 244 orangutans 245, 307, 315 driving tour 68 travel to/from 236-8 Imbak Canyon Kalimantan 10, 262, embassies & consulates travel within 238 ­Conservation Area 95 244-6, 2, 10 318 population 283 Kayan Mentarang Sabah 13, 90, 91, 97, 13 etiquette 314 National Park 280 Sarawak 15, 158, 161, 15 postal services 321 food 50 Kinabalu National Park prickly heat 335 highlights 51 70-8, 39 proboscis monkeys 92, 125, history 70 P 307, 41 Kubah National Park indigenous groups 159-61 public holidays 321-2 289-90 Istana Kuning 248 Kuching Wetlands Pulau Banggi 83 money 320-1 Istana Nurul Iman 211, National Park 157 Pulau Berhala 94 213-14 telephone services 322-3 Kutai National Park 273 Pulau Derawan 276-8 Istana Pangeran travel seasons 50 Labuan Marine Park 127 Mangkubumi 248 Pulau Gaya 69 visas 324 350 safety 322 Sibu 168-72, 171 Tiang Yun Dian Chinese weather 16, 23, 24, 25, see crocodiles 179 Singkawang 238-9 Temple 211 also individual regions kidnappings 112 Siniawan Night Market 146 Tua Pek Kong Temple weights 320 Sepilok Orangutan Sintang 239-40 (Kuching) 138 West Kalimantan 232-44 Tua Pek Kong Temple ­Rehabilitation Centre Sipadan 112 Weston 125 (Miri) 184 90 skin problems 335 White Rajahs 285-7, 294 Tua Pek Kong Temple INDEX INDEX salt 202 wildlife 21, 75, 305, smoking 320 (Sibu) 168, 206 Samarinda 264-7, 265 306-9, 314-15, see also snorkelling, see diving & Tempurung 124-5 sambal 301 snorkelling individual­ species Tenggarong 268-9 wildlife reserves & S- Sandakan 84-9, 86 soto makassar 116  122-3 ­sanctuaries Z accommodation 87 South Kalimantan 254-9  Tering 272 Borneo drinking & nightlife 88-9 spas 78, 191 time 323, 340 Conservation­ Centre 91 food 87-8 St Joseph’s Cathedral 232 Tiong Ohang 272 Kota Kinabalu Wetland information 89 statues, see monuments & Tip of Borneo 81-2 Centre 53 sights 84-6 memorials tipping 19 Kudat Turtle tours 86-7 Suharto 288 toilets 323 ­Conservation Society travel to/from 89 Sukadana 242-4 81 tourist information 323-4 travel within 89 Sukarno 288 Labuk Bay Proboscis tours 331, see also Monkey Sanctuary 92 Sandakan Archipelago 94-5 Sukau 98-9 individual locations Matang Wildlife ­Centre Sultan of Brunei 211 train travel 67, 331 161 85 sun bears 91, 262 transmigrasi 288 Santubong Peninsula 155-8 Sungai Kapuas 239 Semenggoh Wildlife traveller’s diarrhoea 335-6 Centre 15, 158, 15 Sarawak 13, 48, 130-205, Sungai Kinabatangan 12, travel to/from Borneo 326-8 132-3, 2, 34-5 96-101, 12 Sepilok Orangutan travel within Borneo 17, ­Rehabilitation Centre accommodation 130 Sungai Klias 125 328-31 13, 90, 13 climate 130 Sungai Mahakam 267-73 trekking, see hiking Tabin Wildlife Reserve embassies & consulates surfing 81 Tringgus 162 105-6 318 swamp buffalo cowboys 258 tuak 299-300 wildlife trade 312 etiquette 314 swiftlets 97, 182 79-80 wildlife-watching food 130 Tunku Abdul Rahman Bako National Park highlights 132-3 National Park 68-70 153, 154 history 131 T Tabin Wildlife Reserve turtles 279, 314-15 Maliau Basin indigenous groups 290 105-6 Tutong 222 ­Conservation Area 118 money 320-1 Tambunan 120-1 TV 320 Softwoods Plantation 114 telephone services 322-3 Tanjung Aru 64 Tanjung Puting National travel seasons 130 Tanjung Isuy 271 U Park 246, 2, 10 visas 324 Tanjung Puting National Ulu Temburong National women travellers 325 Sarawak Cultural Village Park 10, 244-7, 2, 10 Park 15, 225-6, 15 women’s health 336 155-6 Tanjung Sipang Mengayu Sarawak laksa 300, 30-1 81-2 WWII 85, 286-7 Sarawak Museum Campus­ tattoos 295 V WWII sites & memorials 138 vacations 321-2 Tawau 114-17, 115 Kundasang War Sebangau National Park vaccinations 332 ­Memorial 78 taxi travel 330-1 253-4 vegetarian & vegan Pialungan tea plantations 78 Sedahan 243 ­travellers 302 ­Sandakan-Ranau telephone services 322-3 Sematan 164 Via Ferrata 74 Death March Memorial­ Temburong 223-6 78 Semenggoh Wildlife Centre visas 324-5 temples, see also Buddhist 15, 158, 15 volunteering 161, 243, 325 Sandakan Memorial temples Park 84 Semporna 106-7, 108 Hiang Thian Siang WWII Memorial (Labuan Semporna Archipelago 14, Temple 138 War Cemetery) 127 107-14 W Hin Ho Bio 138 walking, see hiking Sepilok 90-4, 92 137 water, drinking 335 Seria 223 Z San Ching Tian Temple waterfalls sharia law 283, 314 Zika virus 334 184 Gunung Gading National shopping 340 Soetji Nurani Park 164 Temple 254 Mahua Waterfall 121

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 351

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist /Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Tram Park/Forest Cafe Underground station Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/ Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to . It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Dublin, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Paul Harding Kalimantan As a writer and photographer, Paul has been travelling the globe for the best part of two decades, with an interest in remote and offbeat places, islands and cultures. He’s an author and contributor to more than 50 Lonely Planet guides to countries and regions as diverse as India, Belize, Vanuatu, Iran, Indonesia, New Zealand, Iceland, Finland, Philippines and – his home patch – Australia.

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Anna Kaminski Brunei Darussalam, Sabah Originally from the Soviet Union, Anna grew up in Cambridge, UK. She graduated from the University of Warwick with a degree in Comparative American Studies, a background in the history, culture and litera- ture of the Americas and the Caribbean, and an enduring love of Latin America. Her restless wanderings led her to settle briefly in Oaxaca and Bangkok, and her flirtation with criminal law saw her volunteering as a lawyer’s assistant in the courts, ghettos and prisons of Kingston, Jamaica. Anna has contributed to almost 30 Lonely Planet titles. When not on the road, she calls London home. Anna also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide chapters.

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