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Borneo-5-Preview.Pdf ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Borneo Brunei Darussalam Sabah p208 p50 Sarawak p130 Kalimantan p228 Paul Harding, Brett Atkinson, Anna Kaminski PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to Borneo . 4 SABAH . 50 Sepilok . 90 Borneo Map . 6 Kota Kinabalu . 52 Sandakan Archipelago . 94 Deramakot Forest Borneo’s Top 17 . 8 Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park . 68 Reserve . 95 Need to Know . 16 Pulau Manukan . 68 Sungai Kinabatangan . 96 First Time Borneo . 18 Pulau Mamutik . 68 Lahad Datu . 101 Pulau Sapi . 69 Danum Valley What’s New . 20 Conservation Area . 103 Pulau Gaya . 69 Tabin Wildlife Reserve . 105 If You Like . 21 Pulau Sulug . 70 Semporna . 106 Month by Month . 23 Northwestern Sabah . 70 Semporna Itineraries . 26 Mt Kinabalu & Archipelago . 107 Kinabalu National Park . 70 Tawau . 114 Outdoor Adventures . 34 Northwest Coast . 79 Tawau Hills Park . 117 Diving Pulau Sipadan . 43 Eastern Sabah . 84 Maliau Basin Sandakan . .. 84 Regions at a Glance . .. 47 Conservation Area . 118 BAMBANG WIJAYA /SHUTTERSTOCK © /SHUTTERSTOCK WIJAYA BAMBANG © NORMAN ONG/SHUTTERSTOCK LOKSADO P258 JAN KVITA/SHUTTERSTOCK © KVITA/SHUTTERSTOCK JAN ORANGUTAN, TANJUNG SARAWAK STATE PUTING NATIONAL PARK P244 ASSEMBLY P140 Contents UNDERSTAND Southwestern Sabah . 120 Tutong & Borneo Today . 282 Belait Districts . 222 Interior Sabah . 120 History . 284 Beaufort Division . 123 Tutong . 222 Pulau Tiga Jalan Labi . 222 Peoples & Cultures . 289 National Park . 125 Seria . 223 The Cuisines Pulau Labuan . 126 Temburong of Borneo . 297 District . 223 Natural World . 303 Bangar . 224 SARAWAK . 130 Batang Duri . 225 Kuching . 131 Ulu Temburong Western Sarawak . 151 National Park . 225 SURVIVAL Bako National Park . 152 GUIDE Santubong Peninsula . 155 KALIMANTAN . 228 Semenggoh Responsible Travel . 314 Wildlife Centre . 158 West Kalimantan . 232 Directory A–Z . 316 Annah Rais Longhouse . 158 Pontianak . 232 Kubah National Park . 159 Singkawang . 238 Transport . 326 Sintang . 239 Bau & Around . 161 Health . 332 Lundu . 162 Putussibau . 240 Language . 337 Gunung Gading Sukadana . 242 National Park . 163 Gunung Palung Index . 346 Tanjung Datu National Park . 244 National Park . 165 Central Kalimantan . 244 Map Legend . .. 351 Talang-Satang Tanjung Puting National Park . 166 National Park . 244 Batang Ai Region . 167 Pangkalan Bun . 247 Central Sarawak . 168 Kumai . 249 Sibu . 168 Palangka Raya . 250 Batang Rejang . 172 Sebangau Bintulu . 176 National Park . 253 Similajau South Kalimantan . 254 National Park . 179 Banjarmasin . 254 Niah National Park . 181 Kandangan . 257 Lambir Hills Loksado . 258 National Park . 183 East & North Miri . 184 Kalimantan . 259 Northeastern Balikpapan . .. 260 SPECIAL FEATURES Sarawak . 191 Samarinda . 264 Gunung Mulu Sungai Mahakam . 267 Outdoor Adventures . 34 National Park . 191 Muller Mountains . 273 Kelabit Highlands . 197 Diving Pulau Kutai National Park . 273 Sipadan . 43 Limbang Division . 204 Berau . 273 Borneo’s Top Merabu . 275 Dive Sites . 58 BRUNEI Derawan Archipelago . 276 DARUSSALAM . 208 Borneo’s Top North Kalimantan . .280 Cultural Attractions . 206 Bandar Seri Begawan . 210 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 26 FADHLI ADNAN/SHUTTERSTOCK © ADNAN/SHUTTERSTOCK FADHLI Plan Your Trip Itineraries S O U T H Santubong C H I N A Kuching •# S E A Wetlands Peninsula Gunung Gading National National Park Bako Park #÷ É National #÷ #÷ Park É É É É É É •# É Kuching É É •# É •# Semenggoh SARAWAK Wind Cave & Wildlife Centre Fairy Cave É KALIMANTAN •# Annah Rais 1 WEEK Kuching Excursions city’s spectacular Darul Hana pedestrian Borneo’s most sophisticated city is bridge to the English Renaissance–style surrounded by first-rate nature sites Fort Margherita. Inside the fort the excel- that can easily keep you occupied for a lent Brooke Gallery presents the thrill- week or more. A renewed focus on the ing story of the Brooke dynasty, while heritage of the Brooke family, Sarawak’s back across the river, the Ranee Museum White Rajahs from 1841 to 1946, is presents the fascinating life of Margaret, showcased in Kuching’s interesting Lady Brooke and Ranee of Sarawak. End the day with a sunset stroll along galleries and museums. Kuching’s Waterfront Promenade, stopping to snack at the various food stalls along Spend your first day in Kuching, tuning into the vibe of the city’s kaleidoscopic mix the route. If a giant rafflesia flower hap- of cultures and cuisines. After exploring pens to be in bloom in Gunung Gading the narrow streets of Old Chinatown, ride National Park, drop everything and rush a tiny passenger ferry or walk across the over before it starts to spoil. On the way 27 PLAN YOUR TRIP IT I NERAR I ES Darul Hana bridge (p131), designed by Ng Chun Chien and Kamal Fozdar, and Indian Mosque (p138), Kuching, Sarawak back explore the Wind Cave and Fairy cheeky macaques and pitcher plants. For Cave, near the provincial town of Bau. the best opportunity to experience Bako, Back in Kuching experience the flavours stay at least a night at the national park’s of Sarawak’s indigenous communities at simple but comfortable accommodation Lepau restaurant, before plugging into the and spend a day or two hiking around the city’s after-dark energy in the bars around peninsula. Back in Kuching balance the Jalan Wayang. ledger between relaxation and exercise by enjoying more of the city’s fine eateries Be sure to also allow half a day to spot and buzzing nightlife. orangutans at Semenggoh Wildlife Centre, then drive further inland to the On your final day relax on the beach longhouse community of Annah Rais, or enjoy fresh seafood around the Santu- where you can stay overnight before bong Peninsula, then spend the sunset returning to Kuching. From here take a hour on a cruise around Kuching Wet- bus then a boat to Bako National Park, lands National Park, keeping alert for keeping an eye out for proboscis monkeys, fireflies and crocs. 28 PLAN YOUR TRIP IT I NERAR I ES •# Pulau Banggi S O U T H É C H I N A É f# S E A Tip of Borneo •# É É •# Kota Marudu S U LU S E A Tunku Abdul É Rahman É National Park ÷# R Poring •# •# Hot Springs É É Kota Kinabalu Mt Kinabalu •# Sandakan (4095m) ÷# •# Sepilok Deramakot É Forest Reserve Sungai •# Kinabatangan É Orou •# Sapulot SABAH É •# Maliau Basin Conservation Area C E L E B E S S E A SARAWAK Tawau Hills PHILIPPINES É Semporna Park É •# •#•# Softwoods f# Semporna Plantation •# •# KALIMANTAN Tawau Archipelago 29 YUSNIZAM YUSOF/SHUTTERSTOCK © YUSOF/SHUTTERSTOCK YUSNIZAM 3 WEEKS Sabah Loop Strolling city streets, climbing tall peaks, PLAN YOUR TRIP relaxing on beaches, hiking through rainforest and diving deep into the ocean – most highlights can be covered in a three-week trip. Arrive in Kota Kinabalu (KK) and spend a couple of days exploring. Visit the Sabah Mu- seum to get a taste of Borneo’s indigenous cul- tures, sample the city’s diverse dining scene at IT I the A-Square Night Market and elsewhere and NERAR spend a day island hopping and possibly diving in Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park. I ES Next, head to the Tip of Borneo for a couple of days of relaxing on beaches and visit- ing friendly Rungus villages, with an extra day or two if you want to visit remote Pulau Banggi and the caves and beaches of adjoin- ing islands. If you have your own wheels and are set to climb Mt Kinabalu, you can drive to Mt Kinabalu National Park via a new road from Kota Marudu. Allow two or three days for the mountain – there’s the climb itself, and the day of rest you’ll need afterwards, which you can spend around Poring Hot Springs. Give yourself three days at Deramakot For- est Reserve for some excellent wildlife-spotting LANO LAN/SHUTTERSTOCK © LANO LAN/SHUTTERSTOCK opportunities before heading to Sandakan for a day’s exploration of the city’s historical sights and to sample its great seafood. Next, spend a day watching orangutans and sun bears at Sepilok before heading to the Sungai Kina- batangan for two days of river cruises and more glimpses of Borneo’s fabled wildlife. Head south to Semporna for some of Borneo’s best diving in the Semporna Archi- pelago, then chow down on Sabah’s best seafood in Tawau. Finally spend a couple of days looking for pygmy elephants and other wildlife on the Softwoods Plantation and in Tawau Hills Park. If not a diver, skip Semporna and spend four to five days exploring Borneo’s ‘Lost World’ in the Maliau Basin Conservation Area be- fore returning to KK. If you’re more into indigenous culture than nature, an alternative to the Maliau Basin is a three- to four-day stay at Orou Sapulot, im- Top: Sabah Museum (p52), Kota Kinabalu, Sabah mersing yourself in Murut culture, swimming Bottom: Hawker stall (p63), Kota Kinabalu, Sabah in waterfalls and trekking in the jungle. 30 ANNA TUTAK/SHUTTERSTOCK © TUTAK/SHUTTERSTOCK ANNA 3 WEEKS Kuching to Brunei PLAN YOUR TRIP This trip across Sarawak and Brunei by road, river and air passes through remote rainforests and modern urban centres. Fly into Kuching and spend a few days ex- ploring this multicultural city, delving into its cuisine scene for breakfast (Sarawak laksa), lunch and dinner. Take day trips to nearby IT national parks in search of orangutans, probos- I NERAR cis monkeys and exotic flora. Then hop on the express ferry to the river port of Sibu – don’t miss the Foochow specialities on offer in the I ES vast Central Market and the river city’s excellent night market. Sibu serves as the gateway to the mighty Batang Rejang (Rejang River). Board an early morning express boat and head upriver to Kapit , a bustling trading centre founded in the days of the White Rajahs. If the river level is high enough, continue on to back-of-beyond Belaga , jumping-off point for hikes to a num- ber of Orang Ulu longhouses.
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