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Sonoita- Patagonia APRIL 2017 ESCAPE • EXPLORE • EXPERIENCE q Explore q sonoita- Patagonia Special Collector’s Issue � 44 IT’S GOOD TO BE HOME He’s been an actor, a model and a musi- Grand Canyon National Park cian. He dates beautiful women, travels, surfs, rides motorcycles and advocates for causes he believes in. But there are Jerome two places singer-songwriter Mark Prescott Wystrach feels grounded — at home Fort Apache April 2017 on the family ranch near Sonoita, and PHOENIX onstage with his Midland bandmates. By Kelly Vaughn Duncan 2 EDITOR’S LETTER Photographs by Scott Baxter Sonoita 3 CONTRIBUTORS Bisbee 50 RUNE WITH A VIEW Patagonia 4 LETTERS In history books, a rune is a letter of an POINTS OF INTEREST IN THIS ISSUE ancient Germanic alphabet. In Southern 5 THE JOURNAL Arizona, it’s the name of a new winery — People, places and things from around the one that pairs award-winning viogniers state, including Fort Apache Historic Park; and mourvèdres with spectacular views American bison, and where to find them of the Mustang Mountains. in Arizona; the old “666” highway; and the By Noah Austin GET MORE ONLINE 150th birthday of Frank Lloyd Wright. Photograph by Paul Markow www.arizonahighways.com 16 THE BIG PICTURES: 52 SCENIC DRIVE /azhighways Prescott Lakes Loop: As the name SONOITA-PATAGONIA @azhighways suggests, this scenic drive is highlighted A Portfolio Edited by Jeff Kida @arizonahighways by a series of lakes, but the route also 32 DEAR JIM ... includes aspens, spruce and oaks; an old pink car; and a chance for a plate An Essay by Kelly Vaughn of potato pancakes. Photographs by Scott Baxter By Kathy Montgomery 36 SAN IGNACIO DEL BABACOMARI 54 HIKE OF THE MONTH The romantic saga of four centuries of Woodchute Trail: Of the many wilder- European culture on historic soil. A story ness areas in Arizona, Woodchute is originally published in our September among the smallest. In all, it protects 1966 issue. only 5,887 acres, but within that space is By Frank Cullen Brophy this great hike, where you might see black bears, bobcats and bald eagles. By Robert Stieve Photographs by Joel Hazelton ◗ An elk climbs Greens Peak, about 56 WHERE IS THIS? 10 miles northwest of Greer, amid morning fog. The peak’s summit has an elevation of 10,134 feet. Paul Gill CANON EOS 5D MARK III, 1/8000 SEC, F/8, ISO 400, 105 MM LENS FRONT COVER: Sonoita-Patagonia illustration by Chris Gall BACK COVER: Mark Wystrach, the lead singer of the country band Midland, is photographed at his family home near Sonoita. Scott Baxter FUJIFILM X-T1, 1/250 SEC, F/4, ISO 200, 35 MM LENS 2 OCTOBER 2015 PHOTOGRAPHIC PRINTS AVAILABLE Prints of some photographs in this issue are available for purchase. To view options, visit www.arizona highwaysprints.com. For more information, call 866-962-1191. www.arizonahighways.com 1 editor’s LETTER CONTRIBUTORS SCOTT BAXTER Scott Baxter, a frequent Arizona Highways APRIL 2017 VOL. 93 NO. 4 “In theory, I should never have liked you,” she contributor, and Kelly Vaughn, our manag- writes in Dear Jim ... “The naturalist Bukowski, 800-543-5432 ing editor, share a passion: Santa Cruz free with your stories of women and wine. You www.arizonahighways.com County, the focus of this month’s issue on were rough, occasionally vulgar. You smelled of Sonoita and Patagonia. “If Kelly and I were smoke and your skin had started to yellow and the each to pick our favorite county in the state, PUBLISHER Win Holden part of me that wasn’t in awe of you was a little bit it would probably be Santa Cruz,” Baxter EDITOR Robert Stieve frightened. But you wrote from your bones, your says. This month, his photos accompany own marrow into poetry, novellas. And you made ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, two of Vaughn’s pieces: an essay on the late Rodgers and Hammerstein DIRECTOR OF get most of the credit, but we had a little some - me believe that there was something to writing.” SALES & MARKETING Kelly Mero Jim Harrison (see Dear Jim ... , page 32) and a thing to do with Oklahoma!, too. The movie, not Kelly never heard back from Mr. Harrison after MANAGING EDITOR Kelly Vaughn profile of country singer Mark Wystrach (see the musical. Like many things in the history of her first piece, and it seems unlikely she’ll get a ASSOCIATE EDITOR Noah Austin It’s Good to Be Home, page 44). Baxter’s Arizona Highways, our involvement was seren di- response to this one. However, he surely would EDITORIAL chance meeting with Harrison several years pitous. In this case, it goes back to the 1950s, have appreciated the uncompromising honesty ADMINISTRATOR Nikki Kimbel ago led to an earlier Arizona Highways story when a road crew for the production company was scouting locations for the and heartfelt affection of her words. Or, maybe PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Jeff Kida on the legendary writer, but Baxter wasn’t film. They started in Oklahoma, for obvious reasons, but after racking up he would have used the pages to start a campfire. CREATIVE DIRECTOR Barbara Glynn Denney familiar with Wystrach — not right away, more than 250,000 miles in the Sooner State, they gave up and made the call. Or roll a cigarette. Sadly, we’ll never know. Rest ART DIRECTOR Keith Whitney anyway. “He ended up being really down “Ummm ... hello, Mr. Hammerstein. I’m afraid we’ve got some bad news. in peace, dear Jim. MAP DESIGNER Kevin Kibsey to earth — great guy, great family,” he says. “The whole shoot was very comfortable. I We’ve looked everywhere, and this isn’t going to work. Not in Oklahoma, Despite his larger-than-life personality, Jim PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Michael Bianchi hate to use the cliché, but it was kind of like an old shoe.” Baxter is currently working on an Arizona Highways project about the state’s Native American spiritual leaders. His other anyway. Too many oil wells cluttering the landscape. There’s no way to re- Harrison was hardly representative of most men WEBMASTER Victoria J. Snow create the wide-open spaces that existed in the early 1900s. Oh, and another in Sonoita. Most men down there are proper recent credits include a February 2017 feature in Cowboys & Indians magazine. CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Nicole Bowman thing, there are too many planes in the sky.” gentlemen, cut from the same cloth as the singing FINANCE DIRECTOR Bob Allen So, Oklahoma was out, and there wasn’t a Plan B. That is, until Arthur cowboys in Oklahoma!. J.P.S. Brown, one of our OPERATIONS/ Hornblow Jr., the movie’s producer, picked up a copy of Arizona Highways. As good friends and a longtime contributor, is one of IT MANAGER Cindy Bormanis he was flipping through the pages, he saw a beautiful color photograph of those gentlemen. And so is Mark Wystrach. the spacious San Rafael Valley. Most likely, it was a shot by Josef Muench. Or As I write this column, Kelly is busy writing CORPORATE OR maybe Esther Henderson. Regardless, the lush grasslands, rolling hills and a profile of the latter — we’re both pushing our TRADE SALES 602-712-2018 stormy monsoon clouds of Southern Arizona were enough to convince the deadlines to the very brink this month. Although SPONSORSHIP SALES REPRESENTATION On Media Publications Hollywood executive to film the exterior scenes of the movie in San Rafael, I haven’t seen her story yet, here’s what I can Todd Bresnahan along with Elgin, Sonoita and Patagonia. tell you about her subject: Mark Wystrach was 602-445-7169 If you’ve never been to those places, you might be wondering how a state raised on a ranch near Sonoita, his parents own best known for its canyons and cactuses could stand in for the Great Plains The Steak Out restaurant in town, he’s been a LETTERS TO THE EDITOR [email protected] of Oklahoma. It’ll make more sense when you get to this month’s portfolio. model and an actor, and now he’s the lead singer 2039 W. Lewis Avenue Phoenix, AZ 85009 As you’ll see, Southern Arizona is different. It defies the stereotype, and just for an incredible Austin-based band called Mid- about everyone who visits wants to move there. There’s an allure that’s hard land. Last winter, Rolling Stone named the band GOVERNOR Douglas A. Ducey to put into words. Keith Whitney says it’s the serenity, the isolation and the one of the “10 New Country Artists You Need to DIRECTOR, simplicity of a place that hasn’t changed much since Oklahoma! was filmed Know.” And Entertainment Weekly calls it one of DEPARTMENT in the ’50s. the “10 Artists Who Will Rule in 2017.” OF TRANSPORTATION John S. Halikowski Keith, affectionately known as “the Brochacho,” is our talented art director, The first song off their first EP is titled Drinkin’ and he’s been exploring Sonoita all his life — his grandfather bought a ranch Problem — “People say I got a drinkin’ problem, Arizona Highways® (ISSN 0004-1521) is published month- ly by the Arizona Department of Transportation. Subscrip- down there around the same time Rodgers and Hammerstein showed up. For but I got no problem drinkin’ at all.” Rolling Stone JOEL HAZELTON tion price: $24 a year in the U.S., $44 outside the U.S. a while now, some of us have been pushing Keith to set up a satellite office on says it “rolls along on a slinky barroom shuffle Single copy: $4.99 U.S. Call 800-543-5432.
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