SUNDAY MAIL SEVEN DAYS OCTOBER 6 2019 11

Jane Oddy understands why has been voted world’s happiest place to live for the second year in row after a visit to city of

Jane Oddy Happy holidays If you’re feeling low, it may celebrated there after donating her dine, such as Sauna Restaurant Kuuma be time to visit Finland. collection to Tampere. and there are three different types; The annual World Happiness Report Owner Saara Sinivuori still prizes sauna, smoke, (savusauna), wood- revealed this year that Finland the sofa from the cellar restaurant heated and electric. The heat can residents are the happiest in the where Tove liked to snooze after run up to 160C. A trip to Rauhaniemi world – for the second year in a row. a particularly informal lunch. public sauna, followed by a swim in Travel And the country’s third largest city, It is no surprise she felt replete. The the stunning Lakenäsijärven, is a info at your service Tampere Market Hall Tampere, is frequently voted the most Finnish and international gourmet popular weekend pastime. desired place to live in Finland. The food at this restaurant is superb. The It is said in Finland that a woman perfect place to get close to nature, chef was preparing food for a visiting looks most beautiful after a sauna. this charming city is surrounded international rock band for their Ever hopeful, I stepped into the dimly private plane home the day we visited. lit wood panelled room at Rauhaniem, by stunning lakes and forests, and nFly with Finnair over the year, it plays host to music Tampere boasts a vibrant nightlife, I was greeted by rows of tanned, to Helsinki from concerts, festivals and literary events. lovely restaurants, idyllic cafés and beautiful, blonde Finns all gently Edinburgh, Anyone who has read much-loved relaxed pubs and breweries. And sweating and chatting animatedly. London Heathrow, children’s books, the , by Koja, a modern Finnish restaurant, After 10 minutes, I stepped into the Manchester and Swedish-Finnish author/illustrator is a perfect example of delicious New lake to cool down, before wrapping Dublin via Helsinki , will be enchanted by a Nordic style cuisine. Stylish and up in a towel. My skin glowed. with fares from visit to the Moomins Museum which cosy, the food and service is excellent. For a different experience, I £124, including We enjoyed different shared meals tried sauna yoga under the personal all taxes and opened its doors in Tampere two charges (finnair. years ago. The hippo-like creatures including sugar salted trout, with instruction of Minni Suni at the com/020 8001 strawberry and smoke hay emulsion. lakeside sports institution at Varala somefin special City of Tampere have a central place in Finnish 0101). Two-hour culture and this first permanent Exploring Tampere is easy on foot. I (https://varala.fi/en/tietoa-varalasta/ transfer from exhibition offers free guided tours in loved my city walking tour visiting group-exercises/). Poses are practised Helsinki to English every Saturday and Sunday. indoor and outdoor markets, seated in a temperature of 50°C. Tampere. The museum contains more than including Tampere Market Hall, No trip to Finland is complete nStay at Lapland 2000 works donated by Tove. The Scandinavia’s largest covered market, without a forest walk. A short drive Hotels Tampere with prices collection includes interactive pieces where I tried local delicacy Blodplättar, from my accommodation, four- from £124 (www. such as the Magician’s Hat, which blood pancakes (verilettu in Finnish). star Lapland Hotel, I met my forest laplandhotels. can be climbed into. Similar to black pudding, you either meditation guide Karoliina Laitinen. com) The Museum’s latest exhibition love it or hate it. Her company (www.villipihlaja.fi) nVisit the Moomin Animations – Thrills and A visit to beautiful specialises in well-being and nature , Cuddles – tells about the history of island from Harbour, a experiences. We connected with tickets €12 adults Moomin animations just as new short ferry ride from the mainland, is nature by slowly walking through the and €6 children. multi million British-Finnish TV a must. I relaxed on a secluded beach forest, taking in the atmosphere adaptation Moominvalley, has after lunch at the island restaurant. through all our senses. waves of happiness Take canoe trip started broadcasting internationally. Nothing is more part of the Finnish Evergreens are the largest producers The series has introduced a new culture than the sauna. Tampere is of plant chemical, phytoncides, so generation to the much-loved family sauna capital of the world. Sauna is walking in an evergreen forest seems ”No trip to Finland is of trolls, with starry voice talent from seen as a binding experience, a place to have the greatest health benefits. I Kate Winslet and Rosamund Pike. for physical and mental cleansing. The felt the benefits after only 20 minutes. complete without a forest Since Tove’s death in 2001, there Finnish parliament even has its own De-stressed for my train to Helsinki, has been a resurgence of interest sauna chamber for MPs to debate in. then my flight home to the UK, I vowed walk. I felt the benefits in her work. One of her favourite There are still 33 public saunas in to return to this beautiful country. In after just 20 minutes” restaurants was Tiiliholvi. Tove Tampere, some where you can also fact, a return trip is already booked.