CARIBBEAN COLOMBIA: RIO MAGDALENA WETLANDS, SANTA MARTA MOUNTAINS, & THE GUAJIRA DESERT
JULY 17–25, 2019
Santa Marta Antpitta. Photo S. Hilty 2019
LEADERS: STEVE HILTY& ALEJANDRO PINTO LIST COMPILED BY: STEVE HILTY
VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM
CARIBBEAN COLOMBIA: RIO MAGDALENA WETLANDS, SANTA MARTA MOUNTAINS, & THE GUAJIRA DESERT
JULY 17–25, 2019
By Steve Hilty
Figure 1. Snow-capped peaks of Santa Marta Mts. Photo S. Hilty 2019.
This trip followed our Chocó Pacific tour and offered dramatically different birdlife as well as a different climate, landscape, and culture.
Following our arrival in Barranquilla, we worked our way eastward the following two days, birding in habitats that included ranchland, freshwater marshes, seacoast mudflats, and dry forest before finally reaching the arid scrub of the Guajira Peninsula. Once on the peninsula we were joined by a Wayúu Amerindian guide (Johnny) the first afternoon, and another the next morning (Juan). We also visited a new feeding site not far from the villages of Camarones where, remarkably, several Vermilion Cardinals could easily be seen, as well as Buffy Hummingbird, Pileated Finch, and other Guajira Desert birds. A welcome change because in the past, cardinals have often been a bit tricky to locate.
The second leg of this trip involved backtracking to the Santa Marta area where we transferred to 4x4 Land Cruisers for a short, smooth drive to the village of Minca in the foothills of the Santa Marta Mountains. Here we overnighted at the Hotel Minca and enjoyed some late afternoon time watching hummingbird feeders. Four regulars— White-necked Jacobin, Steely-vented Hummingbird, White-vented Plumeleteer, and Rufous-tailed Hummingbird—dominated, and a timid Pale-bellied Hermit came late in the evening. Surprisingly absent from this mix were Rufous-breasted Hermit, Black- throated Mango, and Red-billed Emerald, all present in October of 2018.
The following morning we journeyed from Minca (c. 600m) upwards to the El Dorado Lodge (2000m), and the following day we continued much higher still (c. 2400m), at
Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Caribbean Colombia, 2019 which point I believe everyone began to appreciate why we used such robust 4x4 Toyota Land Cruisers for this trip. The trip to the lodge, and especially beyond, was indeed rough and tumble—worse even than in previous years due, apparently, to heavy rainfall the past months. The El Dorado Lodge has been open since 2008, and it offers birders considerable comfort and an array of birding options along the long steep ridge known as the Cuchillo (Knife) of San Lorenzo but at considerable cost of comfort to actually reach it. It is no trip for shrinking violets but one that almost all birders seem willing to endure…once.
The El Dorado Lodge is built along the original road constructed for various telecommunication towers that were established higher up, between ca. 2300 and 2800m. Unfortunately, there has been little road maintenance since the late 1960s when these towers were built, and, more recently, a forest fire destroyed much key high elevation forest along the upper end of this road. Driving up this road is an adventure (an understatement perhaps), as it surely ranks as one of the most difficult roads you are likely to travel (think driving up a rocky creek bed). As a side benefit, this road allows travelers (at least early in the morning) to view the stunning snow- capped peaks of the Santa Marta Mountains. And, it is still possible to see many of the endemic birds of the Santa Marta Mountains at various locations along this road, especially the Santa Marta Parakeet and Santa Marta Warbler. We found the warbler easily, but the parakeets left at dawn and did not return. Most surprising to me, however, was the young girl at the San Lorenzo field station (operated by the park service) who has been feeding an endemic Santa Marta Antpitta immediately behind one of the buildings. With a bit of patience, she coaxed the bird to appear for us, much to the delight of photographers as well as everyone else.
We spent our three afternoons mostly around the El Dorado Lodge, or along the road, or on trails nearby where we checked the compost pit, a grain feeder, numerous hummingbird feeders, and a fruit feeder for an array of species. Also, the bright orange Marmolade bushes ( Streptosolon ) around the lodge provide nectar for hummingbirds and White-sided Flowerpiercers. Band-tailed Guans were more in evidence than on any previous trip, most now so habituated to humans they do not bother to flee or hide themselves and, instead, allow close approach. Black-fronted Wood-Quails, usually present from time to time at the compost, were nowhere to be seen this trip, but a pair of White-tailed Starfrontlets and a lovely male Lazuline Sabrewing competed at hummingbird feeders, along with hoards of violetears and woodnymphs.
On the day of our departure we continued adding endemics and interesting species on our descent from the El Dorado Lodge to Minca. Among key species were Santa Marta Antbird (several and with much song), Rusty-breasted Antpitta (also much song), Santa Marta Tapaculo, Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush, Yellow-legged Thrush (male going to nest site on roadcut), Yellow-backed Oriole, and a surprising number of Swallow Tanagers. Lunch in Minca was interrupted briefly by some vigilante justice delivered to an apparent thief, all taking place across the street and below us at a private residence. This ultimately attracted dozens of onlookers, and the hapless thief received even more floggings down the street. However, the crowd soon
Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Caribbean Colombia, 2019 dispersed, school kids in uniforms began traipsing past the restaurant again, returning home from school with books in tow, and life quickly returned to normal even before we left for our final drive to Barranquilla. We spent our last hour of birding in dry scrub and woodland adjacent to the Universidad del Norte in Barranquilla. Here, most people got decent views of some skittish Chestnut-winged Chachalacas and better views of several scrub birds including Black-crested Antshrikes, Rufous-browed Peppershrikes, Common Ground-Doves, Trinidad Euphonias, Mouse-colored Tyrannulets, and several Northern Scrub-Flycatchers among others.
It was an enjoyable trip full of birds and plants and new places, and I thank you for choosing this trip and VENT for your travels. I do hope you enjoyed this northern Colombia birding route. I also hope that you consider returning to Colombia (some of you already had traveled in Colombia with me previously) to see many other spectacular birds in Colombia’s Andes and elsewhere. As Colombians will tell you, “your only risk is wanting to stay,” and I guess I am proof of the validity of their statement.
Figure 2. Caribbean Beach, Jorará Lodge, Colombia. Photo S. Hilty 2019
ITINERARY (major sites): Day 1, July 17. Arrival in Barranquilla. Day 2, July 18. Birding near the Río Magdalena. Late morning drive to Hotel Jorará for lunch and a very hot late afternoon bird walk and hot sleeping night. Day 3. July 19. Morning birding along Las Gaviotas road. Lunch at Hotel Jorará and afternoon birding along the Cai-Cai road south of the village of Camarones. Day 4, July 20. Early morning departure to desert scrub near Camarones and nearby areas. Afternoon drive back toward city of Santa Marta, transfer from our bus to three Toyota Land Cruisers, and on to the village of Minca for the night. Day 5, July 21. Morning departure from Minca to explore the road upward to the El Dorado Lodge. Last afternoon bird walk. Day 6-7, July 22-23. Two days in vicinity of El Dorado Lodge. Day 8, July 24. Early departure from El Dorado Lodge; mid-elevation birding (below the “Y” road fork where road construction has the road completely blocked from 7 a.m. onward), lunch in Minca; p.m. drive to Barranquilla. Day 9, July 25. Various international flight departures today.
Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Caribbean Colombia, 2019 KEY hd = heard (preceded by (*) [ ] = seen/hd by SH (Hilty) and/or AP (Alexander Pinto) red = migrants from North America (boreal migrants) boldface blue = endemic or near endemic species Violet = birds of interest
BIRDS: subspecies are provided for a few species with taxonomic issues. For more information see SACC (South American Checklist Committee) web page. At least 20 endemic recorded.
TINAMIDAE *Little Tinamou, Crypturellus soui , heard along Gaviotas Road
CRACIDAE Chestnut-winged Chachalaca, Ortalis garrula (E), B/q (skittish and hard to see) Band-tailed Guan, Penelope argyrotis , numerous around El Dorado Lodge; coming to grain feeders and compost (see photo opposite, 2019. Sickle-winged Guan, Chamaepetes goudotii , much less evident than previous guan; 3 seen
ODONTOPHORIDAE Crested Bobwhite, Colinus cristatus , group of 8-9 in Camarones area *Black-fronted Wood-Quail, Odontophorus atrifrons , heard our last morning descending from El Dorado; none near Lodge Figure 3. Band -tailed Guan, El Dorado. Photo S. Hilty 2019
COLUMBIDAE Rock Pigeon, Columba livia , towns and cities; 100s B/q Pale-vented Pigeon, Patagioenas speciosa , Gaviotas Rd., above Minca last day Bare-eyed Pigeon, Patagioenas corensis , desert areas (“google-eyes) Band-tailed Pigeon, Patagioenas fasciata , highlands higher elevations of Santa Marta Mts. (mostly <2000 m) Common Ground-Dove, Columbina passerina , 1 at B/q Ruddy Ground-Dove, Columbina talpacoti , lower elevations Scaled Dove, Columbina squammata , most lower elevations *Blue Ground-Dove, Claravis pretiosa heard Gaviotas road White-tipped Dove, Leptotila verreauxi , El Dorado Lodge and drier lowland sites; abundant around El Dorado Lodge
Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 Caribbean Colombia, 2019 Lined Quail-Dove, Zentrygon linearis , heard from 2000 m and up; 1 seen hustling across road just above the El Dorado Lodge (SH only) Eared Dove, Zenaida auricular , in marshy area near Río Magdalena
CUCULIDAE Squirrel Cuckoo, Piaya cayana , various wooded areas at lower elevations Groove-billed Ani, Crotophaga sulcirostris , dry areas near B/q and Guajira desert Smooth-billed Ani, Crotophaga ani , 2 near B/q (same area as the Groove-bills) Dark-billed Cuckoo, Coccyzus melacoryphus , 1 near Camarones (east of Antennas); scarce/rare here; not in view for long although two people obtained photos and I am reasonably confident this identification is correct. Very like Mangrove Cuckoo except for its all black bill. Fairly dense low canopy partly thorny scrub (to ca. 10m).
APODIDAE ?Chestnut-collared Swift, Streptoprocne rutila , a few swifts circling in air near El Dorado (especially the now defunct lookout tower) were likely this specie but they were VERY far away White-collared Swifts, Streptoprocne zonaris , several one evening at El Dorado Lodge [Short-tailed Swift, Chaetura cinereiventris , 2 in air seen from bus along the short-cut that circumvents Santa Marta; seen only by SH]
TROCHILIDAE (20 species) White-necked Jacobin, Florisuga mellivora , ranchland near B/q; males and females at Minca Hotel feeders Rufous-breasted Hermit, Glaucis hirsute , 3 along Gaviotas Road Pale-bellied Hermit, Phaethornis anthophilus , Gaviotas Road; Minca (feeders) Sooty-capped Hermit, Phaethornis augusti , 1 along road below El Dorado Lodge Brown Violetear, Colibri delphinae , El Dorado Lodge (common) Lesser (formerly Green) Violetear, Colibri thalassinus , El Dorado Lodge; one of the commonest and dominant hummers Sparkling Violetear, Colibri cyanotus , El Dorado (blue belly; chinstrap etc.); common Black-throated Mango, Anthracothorax nigricollis , Gaviotas Road (1male).
Figure 4 White-vented Plumeleteer, Minca. Photo S. Hilty 2019
White-vented Plumeleteer, Chalybura buffoni, Minca (common)
Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 6 Caribbean Colombia, 2019 Santa Marta Blossomcrown, Anthocephala floriceps (E), 3 at small lek at 1800 m el (local and scarce) Tyrian Metaltail, Metallura tyrianthina tyrianthina , at high elevation (2500m) in Santa Marta Mts.; this race a possible future split from Andean birds; females have much brighter and more sharply defined rufous throat than Andean populations; also tail color (reddish in some lights) of both sexes differs from the steel blue tail of most Andean populations) White-tailed Starfrontlet, Coeligena phalerata (E), 1 male and 1 female at El Dorado Santa Marta Woodstar, Chaetocercus astreans (E), 1 male persistently on an emergent dead twig perch at 1750 m el for two days; he owned that perch Red-billed Emerald, Chlorostilbon gibsoni , Guajira desert (mostly males) Lazuline Sabrewing, Campylopterus falcatus , 1 male at El Dorado Lodge feeders; uncommon here White-vented Plumeleteer, Chalybura buffonii , abundant at feeders at Minca Hotel Crowned (Violet-crowned) Woodnymph, Thalurania colombica , abundant at feeders at El Dorado Lodge (ratio of approximately 10 males to 4 females; this species (along with Green-crowned Woodnymph) was split from Fork-tailed Woodnymph; now merged (again) with former Green-crowned Woodnymph because of hybrid specimens showing mixed green and violet crowns Buffy Hummingbird, Leucippus fallax , seen well at the Cardinal feeding area near Camarones Steely-vented Hummingbird, Amazilia saucerrottei , abundant at feeders at Minca Hotel; white stockings (usually); narrow coppery rufous upper tail covert band Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, Amazilia tzacatl , feeders at Minca Hotel Violet-bellied Hummingbird, Damophila julie , 1 male (Las Gaviotas) seen nicely
RALLIDAE Gray-cowled Wood-Rail, Aramides cajaneus , 1 (Gaviotas Rd) Common Gallinule, Gallinula galeata , several near B/q (marshes) Purple Gallinule, Porphyrio martinicus , 3 in marshes near Río Magdalena
ARAMIDAE Limpkin, Aramus guarauna , 3-4 in marshes near Río Magdalena
BURHINIDAE Double-striped Thick-knee, Burhinus bistriatus , 5 near Camarones (dry fields)
RECURVIROSTRIDAE Black-winged Stilt, Himantopus mexicanus , Salamanca National Park; flock of 20+ in marshes near B/q
HAEMATOPODIDAE American Oystercatcher, Haematopus palliatus , 2 (Camarones sandy beach)
CHARADRIIDAE Southern Lapwing, Vanellus chilensis , dry fields; edges of lagoons etc. common
Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 7 Caribbean Colombia, 2019 Collared Plover, Charadrius collaris , 1 at muddy lagoon edge Salamanca NP
JACANIDAE Wattled Jacana, Jacana jacana , black-backed race in marshes near B/q; also Guajira area
SCOLOPACIDAE Spotted Sandpiper, Actitis macularius , 1 early boreal migrant along river behind Las Acacias Restaurant (near entrance to Tayrona NP) Greater Yellowlegs, Tringa melanoleuca , 2 (marshes near B/q); also Salamanca NP Willet, Tringa semipalmata , 5-6 Camarones (bay) Whimbrel, Numenius phaeopus , 1 seen by Brad as we crossed Salamanca NP
LARIDAE Laughing Gull, Leucophaeus atricilla , 1 on sandy beach at Camarones (northern migrant and local resident); this birds was in basic (non-breeding) plumage Yellow-billed Tern, Sternula superciliaris , 40-50 on mudflat in Salamanca NP; all were in non-breeding (basic) plumage or juvenile plumage; although originally I thought all or most of these might be Least Terns (now known to breed near Barranquilla) I believe that all individuals here were Yellow-billed Terns (with dusky bill tips indicating non-breeding or juv.); these may be local short-distance migrants from the interior because I think they do not breed here Large-billed Terns, Phaetura simplex , 100+ with Yellow-billed Terns (Salamanca NP); also probably short-distance migrants from the interior Black Skimmer, Rynchops niger , 20+ at Salamanca NP
FREGATIDAE Magnificent Frigatebird, Fregata magnificens , along coast (few)
PHALACROCORACIDAE Neotropic Cormorant, Phalacrocorax brasilianus , coast (few)
PELECANIDAE Brown Pelican, Pelecanus occidentalis , along coast small groups up to a dozen or so)
ARDEIDAE Cocoi Heron, Ardea cocoi , 3-4 near Río Magdalena Great Egret, Ardea albus , all days in lowlands Snowy Egret, Egretta thula , all days in lowlands; 1 foot-stirring water in Río Magdalena marshes and then grabbed a very large fish Tricolored Heron, Egretta tricolor , 5 in Río Magdalena marshes also Salamanca NP Reddish Egret, Egretta rufescens , Camarones (2 white; 1 dark) all acting crazy just like they are supposed to do Cattle Egret, Bubulcus ibis , daily in lowlands Striated Heron, Butorides striata , 4-5 in Río Magdalena marshes
Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 8 Caribbean Colombia, 2019 THRESKIORNITHIDAE White Ibis, Eudocimus albus , 1 in Rio Magdalena marshes; 2 near Camarones Glossy Ibis, Plegadis falcinellus , 5 Río Magdalena marshes Bare-faced Ibis, Phimosus infuscatus , 2 Río Magdalena marshes; 1 by AP as we were driving back through Salamanca NP
CATHARTIDAE Black Vulture, Coragyps atratus , all days at lower elevations (less than 1500m) Turkey Vulture, Cathartes aura , all days and all elevations Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, Cathartes burrovianus , at least 2 over Río Magdalena marsh area; soars low King Vulture, Sarcoramphus papa , 1 in the air above Minca at c. 900 m
ACCIPITRIDAE (13 species) Pearl Kite, Gampsonyx swainsonii , 2 (Guajira and B/q) *Black Hawk-Eagle, Spizaetus tyrannus , hd along Gaviotas Rd. Snail Kite, Rostrhamus sociabilis , several Río Magdalena Savanna Hawk, Buteogallus meridionalis , 1 distant Guajira Roadside Hawk, Buteo magnirostris , 1 seen from bus as it was flying over road near Santa Marta cut-off Gray-lined Hawk, Buteo nitidus , Gaviotas Rd (1 eating something bloody!; great find by Chris)
STRIGIDAE Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl, Glaucidium brasilianum , east of Antennas near Camarones Black-and-white Owl, Ciccaba nigrolineata , one adult at a roost about 15 minutes above Minca. One or more of these owls have been roosting at this site for more than a year.
Figure 5 Black-and-white Owl, Minca, Colombia. Photo S. Hilty 2019
Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 9 Caribbean Colombia, 2019 TROGONIDAE White-tipped Quetzal, Pharomachrus fulgidus , female in scope; male seen flying Masked Trogon, Trogon personatus pairs, El Dorado
Figure 6. Masked Trogon, Santa Marta Mts. Photo S. Hilty 2019
MOMOTIDAE Whooping Motmot, Momotus subrufescens, Gaviotas; Minca Hotel
ALCEDINIDAE Ringed Kingfisher, Megaceryle torquata , several lowland areas including Río Magdalena marshes; Guajira etc. Amazon Kingfisher, Chloroceryle amazona , 1 near Río Magdalena marshes Green Kingfisher, Chloroceryle americana , 1 Río Magdalena marshes
BUCCONIDAE Russet-throated Puffbird, Hypnelus ruficollis , nearly a dozen in ranchland near B/q; also Guajira
GALBULIDAE Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Galbula ruficauda , all lowland and foothill areas
RAMPHASTIDAE Emerald (Andean; Santa Marta) Toucanet, Aulacorhynchus albivitta lautus ), 1 at El Dorado Lodge; this may be regarded a separate species (taxonomy in debate); Santa Marta birds are of subspecies lautus Groove-billed Toucanet, Aulacorhynchus sulcatus , coffee plantation one at c. 1700m; thus also may be regarded a distinct species Yellow-billed Toucanet, A. s. calorhynchus Collared Araçari, Pteroglossus torquatus , Minca Hotel Keel-billed Toucan, Ramphastos sulfuratus , heard several; 2 seen flying in1450m zone
PICIDAE Chestnut Piculet, Picumnus cinnamomeus , Río Magdalena ranchland near B/q
Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 10 Caribbean Colombia, 2019 Red-crowned Woodpecker, Melanerpes rubricapillus , all lowland areas up to ca. 1100m Crimson-crested Woodpecker, Campephilus melanoleucus , 1 female 1450 m *Lineated Woodpecker, Dryocopus lineatus , heard at Palo Alto hacienda, ca. 1780 m Golden-olive Woodpecker, Piculus rubiginosus , pairs twice; <1500 m el Spot-breasted Woodpecker, Colaptes punctigula , at least 6 in marsh/cattle land near Río Magdalena; surprisingly common here
FALCONIDAE Crested Caracara, Caracara cheriway , throughout in lowlands Yellow-headed Caracara, Milvago chimachima , only 2-3 individuals; lowlands Laughing Falcon, Herpetotheres cachinnans , Gaviotas Rd.
PSITTACIDAE Orange-chinned Parakeet, Brotogeris jugularis , heard and seen at most lower elevation and foothill sites; also in towns Red-billed Parrot, Pionus sordidus , Santa Marta Mts.; 1400-1700 m Scaly-naped Parrot, Amazona mercenarius , dozen pairs at high elevation (2450- 2500m) in Santa Marta Mts. *Santa Marta Parakeet, Pyrrhura viridicata (E), heard; flushed immediately and never seen well by anybody Brown-throated Parakeet, Aratinga pertinax, low elevation dry/desert sites; Blue- crowned Parakeet, Thectocercus acuticaudatus , 8-10 in flight in Guajira Scarlet-fronted Parakeet, Aratinga wagleri , vicinity of El Dorado Lodge (in flight); also one flock at ca. 1500 m
THAMNOPHILIDAE Black-crested Antshrike, Sakesphorus canadensis , Camarones; also B/q Black-backed Antshrike, Thamnophilus melanonotus , 1 male east of Camarones White-fringed Antwren, Myrmotherula grisea , subspecies intermedia ; east of Camarones, Guajira; this is the northern race; the southern ones a future split Santa Marta (formerly Long-tailed) Antbird, Drymophila hellmayri (E) ; quite vocal; we saw several (some better than others!) Santa Marta Mts. 1400-1650m); recent split from Long-tailed Antbird White-bellied Antbird, Myrmeciza longipes , near Las Gaviotas (cute pair on branch)
FORMICARIIDAE Santa Marta Antpitta, Grallaria bangsi (E), almost no spontaneous vocalization from this species but seen nicely at the feeding site Rusty-breasted Antpitta, Grallaricula ferrugineipectus, 1 seen well, c.1750m el; at least 6-8 others heard singing; this likely a separate species from those in Peru Figure 7. Santa Marta Antpitta. Photo S. Hilty 2019
Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 11 Caribbean Colombia, 2019
RHINOCRYPTIDAE Santa Marta Tapaculo, Scytalopus sanctaemartae (E) 1 seen very well; another not so well; we heard perhaps a dozen on our ascent/descend from El Dorado (1400- 1800m) *Brown-rumped Tapaculo, Scytalopus latebricola (E) heard (fast trill); 2400m
FURNARIIDAE Strong-billed Woodcreeper, Xiphocolaptes promeropirhynchus , near El Dorado; some really close views Straight-billed Woodcreeper, Xiphorhynchus picus , Río Magdalena; Guajira desert; Barranquilla Streak-headed Woodcreeper, below El Dorado Montane Woodcreeper, Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger , above El Dorado Plain Xenops, Xenops minutus , Las Gaviotas Road Pale-legged Hornero (Caribbean), Furnarius (longirostris) leucopus , several; Guajira region; Caribbean form not currently recognized as a separate species from Amazonian F. leucopus but a possible candidate for splitting Montane Foliage-gleaner, Anabacerthia striaticollis , El Dorado area *Santa Marta Foliage-gleaner, Automolus rufipectus (E), heard a dozen or more but none were responsive; recently split from Ruddy Foliage-gleaner, A. rubiginosus based on voice; have they heard too much playback to come investigate? Streak-capped Spinetail, Cranioleuca hellmayri (near E ), Santa Marta Mts. 1450m; and 2400 m Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Certhiaxis cinnamomeus , 2 in marshes near Río Magdalena Pale-breasted Spinetail, Synallaxis albescens , 1 at ca. 1300 m (above village of Campano) that didn’t show itself very well Rusty-headed Spinetail, Synallaxis fuscorufa (E), Santa Marta Mts.; 2400 m; hard to see for some reason White-whiskered Spinetail, Synallaxis candei , Guajira desert; common and striking
TYRANNIDAE Mouse-colored Tyrannulet, Phaeomyias murina , 2-3 Barranquilla Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet, Tyrannulus elatus, heard at Las Gaviotas; above Minca Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Elaenia flavogaster , Río Magdalena; Las Gaviotas; Minca *Mountain Elaenia, Elaenia frantzii , 2200 md (maybe seen by some people) Olive-striped Flycatcher, Mionectes olivaceus , El Dorado area; AP found a nest suspended from low branch a few hundred meters above the El Dorado Lodge Sepia-capped Flycatcher, Leptopogon amaurocephalus , above Minca, c. 1100m (1 seen and photographed by some people); not rare but often overlooked Venezuelan Tyrannulet, Zimmerius improbus , moist woodland/coffee plantation area at ca. 1600m in Santa Marta Mts.; should eventually be split from Paltry Tyrannulet; and from lower elevation golden-faced forms in foothills of Santa Marta mts. SACC checklist committee slow to recognize this one Northern Scrub-Flycatcher, Sublegatus arenarum , Camarones area; Barranquilla Slender-billed (Tyrannulet) Inezia, Inezia tenuirostris , Camarones
Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 12 Caribbean Colombia, 2019 *Pale-tipped Tyrannulet, Inezia caudata , 1 on Cai-Cai road; uncommon in Colombia (but much more numerous in Venezuela and Guyana); mainly heard by Johnny (Wayuu guide) and SH Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant, Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer , Camarones Black-throated Tody-Tyrant, Hemitriccus granadensis , Santa Marta Mts. (El Dorado Lodge and upwards Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher, Todirostrum nigriceps , Las Gaviotas Yellow-olive Flycatcher, Tolmomyias sulphurescens , Las Gaviotas; above Minca Yellow-breasted Flycatcher, Tolmomyias flaviventris , Guajira (Cai-Cai area) Vermilion Flycatcher, Pyrocephalus rubinus , 1 male in Guajira desert south of Camarones Pied Water-Tyrant, Fluvicola pica , marshes near Río Magdalena and bringing food to a nest in little shrub at edge of water White-headed Marsh-Tyrant, Arundinicola leucocephala , in marshes near Río Magdalena Cattle Tyrant, Machetornis rixosa , Barranquilla last p.m. Dusky-capped Flycatcher, Myiarchus tuberculifer , Las Gaviotas road (group of 4) Brown-crested Flycatcher, Myiarchus tyrannulus , Camarones Great Kiskadee, Pitangus sulphuratus , Minca; Barranquilla Boat-billed Flycatcher, Megarynchus pitangua , Minca Rusty-margined Flycatcher, Myiozetetes cayanensis, pair in vicinity of Río Magdalena (this species seems far less numerous in north coast region than next species) Social Flycatcher, Myiozetetes similis , near Río Magdalena (2-3); another at Las Acacias restaurant near entrance to Tayrona NP Golden-crowned Flycatcher, Myiodynastes chrysocephalus , El Dorado area Streaked Flycatcher, Myiodynastes maculatus , Las Gaviotas; Minca *Piratic Flycatcher, Legatus leucophaius , one heard along La Gaviotas road (SH; AP) Tropical Kingbird, Tyrannus melancholicus , lowlands to c. 2000 m Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Tyrannus savana , 3 near Río Magdalena
COTINGIDAE Golden-breasted Fruiteater, Pipreola aureopectus , El Dorado and higher (we saw at least 3 or more but they kept on the move and were not easy to track)
PIPRIDAE Lance-tailed Manakin, Chiroxiphia lanceolata , Las Gaviotas road; beautiful male White-bearded Manakin, Manacus manacus, 1 male above Minca (c. 950m)
TITYRAS ETC. Masked Tityra, Tityra semifasciata, coffee zone (2-3 seen) One-colored Beard, Pachyramphus polychopterus , pair along Las Gaviotas road; local in distribution
VIREONIDAE Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Cyclarhis gujanensis, numerous (by voice) in scrub in Barranquilla; 1 seen well
Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 13 Caribbean Colombia, 2019 *Scrub Greenlet, Hylophilus flavipes , heard in several places in lowlands but never seen Golden-fronted Greenlet, Pachysylvia aurantiifrons , Las Gaviotas (several heard; a pair seen well) Brown-capped Vireo, Vireo leucophrys , c. 1450 Chivi Vireo, Vireo chivi (or V. olivaceus chivi ), 6-8 singing along Las Gaviotas road; has often been lumped with Red-eyed Vireo
CORVIDAE Black-chested Jay, Cyanocorax affinis , El Dorado; Guajira and quite a few places in between; surprisingly common
HIRUNDINIDAE Southern Rough-winged Swallow, Stelgidopteryx ruficollis , lower elevations Gray-breasted Martin, Progne chalybea, ranchland near Río Magdalena Brown-chested Martin, Progne tapera fusca (these were austral migrants that have a chest band and a vertical row of chest spots); group of 12 in high dead tree
TROGLODYTIDAE House Wren, Troglodytes aedon , ranchland near Río Magdalena; Barranquilla (scrub) [Band-backed Wren, Campylorhynchus zonatus , apparently never definitely identified in Río Magdalena area; differs from next species in dark eyes among other things] Stripe-backed Wren, Campylorhynchus nuchalis , this one repeatedly in Río Magdalena area including many photos; white eyes Bicolored Wren, Campylorhynchus griseus , various lowland areas; common Rufous-breasted Wren, Pheugopedius rutilus , 900-1100m in Santa Marta mts. Rufous-and-white Wren, Thryophilus rufalbus, heard and seen; c. 950m Buff-breasted Wren, Cantorchilus leucotis , heard in ranchland area near Río Magdalena; seen at Las Gaviotas Hermit Wood-Wren, Henicorhina anachoreta (E) , heard many in highlands (at 2450m down to ca. 2000m); below this at various lower elevations we heard and saw what is presumably Gray-breasted Wood-Wren H. leucophrys bangsi ). I don’t hear a great deal of difference in these populations. Higher elevation birds do sing a slightly higher-pitched, more squeaky song but these wrens (Gray-breasted Wood- Wrens) sing a great variety of songs over their immense range; these birds are classic “composers” that learn their songs and thus the songs of all populations are subject to changes and variations; nevertheless this split is now official (although I think somebody has been sold ornithologists some hot air here.
POLIOPTILIDAE Tropical Gnatcatcher, Polioptila plumbea , Guajira (abundant); curiously none at Barranquilla
Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 14 Caribbean Colombia, 2019 TURDIDAE Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush, Catharus aurantiirostris, Santa Marta Mts. From 1500m down to 1100 m or lower we heard many; one or two eventually seen really well; others less so Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush, Catharus fuscater , El Dorado (1 at compost site photographed by Roger); this species can be quite difficult to see under “normal” conditions Pale-breasted Thrush, Turdus leucomelas , common in the lowlands Yellow-legged Thrush, Turdus flaviceps , nesting at 1600m
Figure 8. White-necked Thrush, Santa Marta Mts. Photo S. Hilty 2019
White-necked Thrush, Turdus albicollis , 1 briefly c. 1420m Black-hooded Thrush, Turdus olivater, near El Dorado where singing loudly but we could never seen it (and we spent a lot of time staring at the canopy) Great Thrush, Turdus fuscater , (c. 2400m)
MIMIDAE Tropical Mockingbird, Mimus gilvus , Guajira (Camarones and elsewhere)
FRINGILLIDAE Trinidad Euphonia, Euphonia trinitatis , Camarones; very common at Barranquilla Thick-billed Euphonia, Euphonia laniirostris , Las Gaviotas Blue-naped Chlorophonia, Chlorophonia cyanea , female mostly at El Dorado; another female at 1500 m Lesser Goldfinch, Spinus psaltria , apparently 1 seen near El Dorado
RHODINOCICHLIDAE *Rosy Thrush-Tanager, Rhodinocichla rosea, heard at several locations above Minca (c. 900-1300m)
PASSERELLIDAE, Tocuyo Sparrow, Arremonops tocuyensis , 1 near Camarones; always difficult Sierra Nevada Brushfinch, Arremon basilicus (E), El Dorado; a split of former Stripe- headed Brush-Finch Arremon (Buarremon) torquatus Golden-winged Sparrow (Arremon), Arremon schlegeli , above Minca (we saw 2, at c.750 and 1100 m); what a beauty!
Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 15 Caribbean Colombia, 2019 Rufous-collared Sparrow, Zonotrichia capensis , El Dorado (but we saw few) Santa Marta Brushfinch, Atlapetes melanocephalus (E), could hardly be missed; 1400- 2400m
ICTERIDAE Crested Oropendola, Psarocolius decumanus , El Dorado and coffee zone below; active nest (feeding young) suspended from Cecropia tree at El Dorado Yellow-rumped Cacique, Cacicus cela, Las Gaviotas Road (a few) Yellow-backed Oriole, Icterus chrysater , pair at c. 1490m el; singing at dawn Yellow Oriole, Icterus nigrogularis , Camarones; Barranquilla Shiny Cowbird, Molothrus bonariensis , ranchland near Río Magdalena; Camarones Great-tailed Grackle, Quiscalus mexicanus , coastal areas; very common Carib Grackle, Quiscalus lugubris , numerous almost everywhere in the lowland areas we visited; this bird is a recent invader from Venezuela and now locally common and spreading southward; not as obnoxious as its larger cousin Yellow-hooded Blackbird, Chrysomus icterocephalus , marshes near Río Magdalena Oriole Blackbird, Gymnomystax mexicanus , 2 in open dry field in ranchland area c. 8 km south of Camarones; birds were distant but yellow head and underparts clearly seen as well as black upperparts; both were on ground; nobody obtained photos but these birds are unmistakable; a recent range extension apparently
PARULIDAE Tropical Parula, Setophaga pitiayumi , above Minca Rufous-capped Warbler, Basileuterus rufifrons , above Minca Santa Marta Warbler, Myiothlypis basilicus (E), pair seen well twice; c. 2450m White-lored Warbler, Myiothlypis conspicillatus (E), yet another Santa Marta endemic warbler; various elevations down to c. 1200m Slate-throated Redstart (Whitestart), Myioborus miniatus , mainly at or below El Dorado Lodge (especially in coffee growing zone) down to 1200m; 1 at 2400m Yellow-crowned Redstart (Whitestart), Myioborus flavivertex (E), Santa Marta Mts.; only 1 and it was at 2050m, a low elevation for this bird
Figure 9. Vermilion Cardinal, Camarones, Guajira. Photo S. Hilty 2019.
Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 16 Caribbean Colombia, 2019 CARDINALIDAE Vermilion Cardinal, Cardinalis phoeniceus , several lingered at feeding site near Camarones; photographers were ecstatic! Male stunning and female ornate. Golden Grosbeak, Pheucticus chrysogaster , El Dorado and higher (formerly Golden- bellied Grosbeak)
THRAUPIDAE White-lined Tanager, Tachyphonus rufus, 1 at ca. 1100m (above Minca) Crimson-backed Tanager, Ramphocelus dimidiatus , common up to 1500m Black-cheeked Mountain-Tanager, Anisognathus melanogenys (E), c. 2400m; Blue-gray Tanager, Thraupis episcopus, more humid lowland sites Glaucous Tanager, Thraupis glaucocolpa, 1 south of Camarones (Guajira) Palm Tanager, Thraupis palmarum , Las Gaviotas, above Minca Blue-capped Tanager, Thraupis cyanocephala, only a couple seen at ca. 2100m Black-headed Tanager, Tangara cyanoptera , 1100-2000m Black-capped Tanager, Tangara heinei , male at El Dorado Lodge Bay-headed Tanager, Tangara gyrola toddii (green underparts), 950-2000m Swallow Tanager, Tersina viridis , Santa Marta Mts. (up to c. 900-1600m; pairs or more often small groups of 4-10) Red-legged Honeycreeper, Cyanerpes cyaneus, 1 female, Las Gaviotas road White-sided Flowerpiercer, Diglossa albilatera , El Dorado Lodge at Marmolade shrubs ( Streptosolon jamesonii ) and also up to 2400m Rusty Flowerpiercer, Diglossa sittoides , below El Dorado (1500 m and a little lower) Plushcap, Catamblyrhynchus diadema , 1 seen at 2400m (during our breakfast); traveling quickly with a pair of Santa Marta Warblers; scarce almost everywhere Saffron Finch, Sicalis flaveola , Barranquilla Lesson’s Seedeater, Sporophila bouvronides, 6+ singing along Las Gaviotas road; 1 male seen very well; seasonal breeder in northern Colombia, then migrates to Brazil or elsewhere to the south; present c. May – Nov. Páramo Seedeater, Catamenia homochroa , 2200m el; generally uncommon Pileated Finch, Coryphospingus pileatus, Camarones (eventually we saw several) Bananaquit, Coereba flaveola , Camarones; Minca Dull-colored Grassquit , Tiaris obscurus , singles and pairs loosely associated along roadside (uncommon, erratic; tricky to identify) 1470-1480m; very responsive to playback; loose breeding colony of 8+ birds; one twice seen eating a wild raspberry ( Rubus ) from high vine. Probably the rarest/least known bird of the trip!
Figure 10. Dull-colored Grassquit, above Minca. Photo S. Hilty 2019.
Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 17 Caribbean Colombia, 2019 Black-faced Grassquit, Tiaris bicolor , Camarones (at the feeding station but it was far away and not seen well) Buff-throated Saltator, Saltator maximus , Las Gaviotas; Minca Grayish Saltator, Saltator coerulescens , Río Magdalena; Barranquilla; Minca area Streaked Saltator, Saltator striatipectus , above Minca
MAMMALS: Night Monkey, Aotus sp., seen briefly as they fled the Cecropia tree feeding site at El Dorado (but they are shy and flee quickly) *Red Howler Monkey, Alouatta seniculus , distant groups heard in vicinity of El Dorado Lodge Red-tailed Squirrel, Sciurus granadensis ; several mostly bright rufous ones with white bellies were almost camped at the grain feeder at the El Dorado Lodge. Dwarf Squirrel, Microsciurus sp. 1 seen by Roger near El Dorado Lodge; species not determined. Very quick and fast. Central American Agouti, Dasyprocta punctata , 1 visiting the compost at El Dorado was seen by a few people
PLANTS : A few random species I noticed, some pointed out to some of you; in no particular order and far from a complete list. Balsa, Ochroma pyramidale, roadsides, light gaps, edges. Cecropia sp., roadsides, light gaps, edges Ceiba pentandra Kapok or Silk-cotton tree (very large) Miconia spp. Melastomataceae ; has tiny sweet berries attractive to tanagers and manakins Melastomataceae, a pan-tropical family worth recognizing; leaf vein pattern net-like, with major veins emerging at base and converging again near tip in parallel pattern much like grass and lots of little cross veins; flowers have recurved, hooked stamens in many cases. There are 1000s of species and they are everywhere, but mostly shrubs or small trees. Ficus sp. Moraceae Piper spp. many kinds, Piperaceae. Mostly shrubs; small white candle-like upstanding flowering spikes Monkey comb , Apeiba tibourbou sp., Malvaceae, in dry forests; they look like rather flattened round black brushes; Jorará Lodge Calliandra sp. Fabaceae (Mimosoideae). Pink shaving-brush flowers of trees very attractive to hummingbirds. Begonia sp. Begoniaceae, roadsides at 1400-1500 m Arisaema Jack-in-the-pulpit (common at a few damp ravines, 1400-1500m) Palicourea , Rubiaceae, shrub or treelet along the trail to the Kogi cabins; beautiful fuchsia/pink flowers; some have similar yellow or orange flowers Sobralia sp. Orchidaceae, Large terrestrial orchid in bloom at 1600 m (by children’s school below El Dorado) Tibouchina sp. Melastomataceae. Large purple-blue flowers; flower garden at the Pale Alto hacienda (1650 m el); pan-tropical genus.
Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 18 Caribbean Colombia, 2019 Streptosolon jamesonii, Solanaceae, Marmolade shrub; orange-yellow flowers around El Dorado Lodge; used by White-sided Flowerpiercer Acacia, Albiizia, etc. Fabaceae (Mimosoideae), two common tree genera in drier Guajira region Bursera simaruba , Burseraceae, Gumbo Limbo with red peeling bark that is greenish underneath; common dry forest tree; Jorará Lodge etc. Pithecellobium sp. (Samán), the really large spreading “legume” trees common in semi-open areas and pastureland en route to the Guajira desert; especially numerous eastward from the Río Don Diego Gesneriaceae ( Columnea, Drymonia etc. ), frequent in cloud forest (=montane wet forest) above the El Dorado Lodge); mostly soft small herbaceous plants with fuzzy stems, often red or orange yellow flowers Inga spp. Fabaceae (Mimosoideae), one of the two commonest trees shading coffee; white shaving-brush flowers; pulp around seed edible Erythrina sp. Fabaceae (Papilionoideae) the other common tree shading coffee; has large red-orange pea-like flowers (literally “red-nose" hence the generic name) but none in bloom at this time of year Introduced trees: especially around and above the San Lorenzo Field Stations include Eucalyptus sp., Cupressus (Cupressaceae) or cypress, and an unknown species of pine. Solanum quitoense (Naranjilla ), the plant Colombians call “Lulo” from which a popular juice is made Passiflora edulis or variant, Passifloraceae, Passion fruit called Granadilla in much of Latin America; we had or were offered these at various places on both trips; the pulp with soft black seeds inside is sweet and looks like frogs eggs. Alpinia sp (prob. purpurata ), Red Ginger, common around hotel at Minca and elsewhere; also at the El Cantil lodge on Pacific coast Hedychium sp (prob. coronarium ), White Ginger, along roadside east of El Valle on Pacific coast trip; don’t recall seeing it on Caribbean trip but it was surly around somewhere in lowlands; this genus includes many garden variety gingers, some red, some white, some yellow etc. Royal Poinciana or Flamboyant, Delonix regia, Fabaceae (subfamily Caesalpinioideae) Long row of these trees planted along the highway cut- off around Santa Marta and all of them were in bloom and beautiful as we passed by. Large, bright orange-red flowers. Impatiens spp. Balsaminaceae. Roadsides in vicinity of El Dorado Lodge; many hybrids and hundreds of species; apparently native to east Africa but found along roadsides and around buildings everywhere in the American tropics. Rosy Periwinkle or (formerly? Vinca rosea, Alpocynaceae, around El Dorado Lodge ) orange ones. Allamanda spp. Apocynaceae. Golden Trumpet. Large yellow flowers with twisted corollas. Apparently native to northern South America and now planted everywhere around houses, along city boulevards etc. All parts of this beautiful plant are apparently poisonous.
Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 19 Caribbean Colombia, 2019 Lantana sp. Verbenaceae. Scattered everywhere; I recall seeing some along the Las Gaviotas road. Yucca gigantea (or Yucca elephantipes ), Agavaceae, may be the really tall yucca we saw near the children’s school (1600m) below El ate these “huevos con flores” in Costa Rica years ago and wasn’t too impressed)
Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 20 Caribbean Colombia, 2019