Caribbean Colombia: Rio Magdalena Wetlands, Santa Marta Mountains, & the Guajira Desert
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CARIBBEAN COLOMBIA: RIO MAGDALENA WETLANDS, SANTA MARTA MOUNTAINS, & THE GUAJIRA DESERT JULY 17–25, 2019 Santa Marta Antpitta. Photo S. Hilty 2019 LEADERS: STEVE HILTY& ALEJANDRO PINTO LIST COMPILED BY: STEVE HILTY VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM CARIBBEAN COLOMBIA: RIO MAGDALENA WETLANDS, SANTA MARTA MOUNTAINS, & THE GUAJIRA DESERT JULY 17–25, 2019 By Steve Hilty Figure 1. Snow-capped peaks of Santa Marta Mts. Photo S. Hilty 2019. This trip followed our Chocó Pacific tour and offered dramatically different birdlife as well as a different climate, landscape, and culture. Following our arrival in Barranquilla, we worked our way eastward the following two days, birding in habitats that included ranchland, freshwater marshes, seacoast mudflats, and dry forest before finally reaching the arid scrub of the Guajira Peninsula. Once on the peninsula we were joined by a Wayúu Amerindian guide (Johnny) the first afternoon, and another the next morning (Juan). We also visited a new feeding site not far from the villages of Camarones where, remarkably, several Vermilion Cardinals could easily be seen, as well as Buffy Hummingbird, Pileated Finch, and other Guajira Desert birds. A welcome change because in the past, cardinals have often been a bit tricky to locate. The second leg of this trip involved backtracking to the Santa Marta area where we transferred to 4x4 Land Cruisers for a short, smooth drive to the village of Minca in the foothills of the Santa Marta Mountains. Here we overnighted at the Hotel Minca and enjoyed some late afternoon time watching hummingbird feeders. Four regulars— White-necked Jacobin, Steely-vented Hummingbird, White-vented Plumeleteer, and Rufous-tailed Hummingbird—dominated, and a timid Pale-bellied Hermit came late in the evening. Surprisingly absent from this mix were Rufous-breasted Hermit, Black- throated Mango, and Red-billed Emerald, all present in October of 2018. The following morning we journeyed from Minca (c. 600m) upwards to the El Dorado Lodge (2000m), and the following day we continued much higher still (c. 2400m), at Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Caribbean Colombia, 2019 which point I believe everyone began to appreciate why we used such robust 4x4 Toyota Land Cruisers for this trip. The trip to the lodge, and especially beyond, was indeed rough and tumble—worse even than in previous years due, apparently, to heavy rainfall the past months. The El Dorado Lodge has been open since 2008, and it offers birders considerable comfort and an array of birding options along the long steep ridge known as the Cuchillo (Knife) of San Lorenzo but at considerable cost of comfort to actually reach it. It is no trip for shrinking violets but one that almost all birders seem willing to endure…once. The El Dorado Lodge is built along the original road constructed for various telecommunication towers that were established higher up, between ca. 2300 and 2800m. Unfortunately, there has been little road maintenance since the late 1960s when these towers were built, and, more recently, a forest fire destroyed much key high elevation forest along the upper end of this road. Driving up this road is an adventure (an understatement perhaps), as it surely ranks as one of the most difficult roads you are likely to travel (think driving up a rocky creek bed). As a side benefit, this road allows travelers (at least early in the morning) to view the stunning snow- capped peaks of the Santa Marta Mountains. And, it is still possible to see many of the endemic birds of the Santa Marta Mountains at various locations along this road, especially the Santa Marta Parakeet and Santa Marta Warbler. We found the warbler easily, but the parakeets left at dawn and did not return. Most surprising to me, however, was the young girl at the San Lorenzo field station (operated by the park service) who has been feeding an endemic Santa Marta Antpitta immediately behind one of the buildings. With a bit of patience, she coaxed the bird to appear for us, much to the delight of photographers as well as everyone else. We spent our three afternoons mostly around the El Dorado Lodge, or along the road, or on trails nearby where we checked the compost pit, a grain feeder, numerous hummingbird feeders, and a fruit feeder for an array of species. Also, the bright orange Marmolade bushes ( Streptosolon ) around the lodge provide nectar for hummingbirds and White-sided Flowerpiercers. Band-tailed Guans were more in evidence than on any previous trip, most now so habituated to humans they do not bother to flee or hide themselves and, instead, allow close approach. Black-fronted Wood-Quails, usually present from time to time at the compost, were nowhere to be seen this trip, but a pair of White-tailed Starfrontlets and a lovely male Lazuline Sabrewing competed at hummingbird feeders, along with hoards of violetears and woodnymphs. On the day of our departure we continued adding endemics and interesting species on our descent from the El Dorado Lodge to Minca. Among key species were Santa Marta Antbird (several and with much song), Rusty-breasted Antpitta (also much song), Santa Marta Tapaculo, Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush, Yellow-legged Thrush (male going to nest site on roadcut), Yellow-backed Oriole, and a surprising number of Swallow Tanagers. Lunch in Minca was interrupted briefly by some vigilante justice delivered to an apparent thief, all taking place across the street and below us at a private residence. This ultimately attracted dozens of onlookers, and the hapless thief received even more floggings down the street. However, the crowd soon Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Caribbean Colombia, 2019 dispersed, school kids in uniforms began traipsing past the restaurant again, returning home from school with books in tow, and life quickly returned to normal even before we left for our final drive to Barranquilla. We spent our last hour of birding in dry scrub and woodland adjacent to the Universidad del Norte in Barranquilla. Here, most people got decent views of some skittish Chestnut-winged Chachalacas and better views of several scrub birds including Black-crested Antshrikes, Rufous-browed Peppershrikes, Common Ground-Doves, Trinidad Euphonias, Mouse-colored Tyrannulets, and several Northern Scrub-Flycatchers among others. It was an enjoyable trip full of birds and plants and new places, and I thank you for choosing this trip and VENT for your travels. I do hope you enjoyed this northern Colombia birding route. I also hope that you consider returning to Colombia (some of you already had traveled in Colombia with me previously) to see many other spectacular birds in Colombia’s Andes and elsewhere. As Colombians will tell you, “your only risk is wanting to stay,” and I guess I am proof of the validity of their statement. Figure 2. Caribbean Beach, Jorará Lodge, Colombia. Photo S. Hilty 2019 ITINERARY (major sites): Day 1, July 17. Arrival in Barranquilla. Day 2, July 18. Birding near the Río Magdalena. Late morning drive to Hotel Jorará for lunch and a very hot late afternoon bird walk and hot sleeping night. Day 3. July 19. Morning birding along Las Gaviotas road. Lunch at Hotel Jorará and afternoon birding along the Cai-Cai road south of the village of Camarones. Day 4, July 20. Early morning departure to desert scrub near Camarones and nearby areas. Afternoon drive back toward city of Santa Marta, transfer from our bus to three Toyota Land Cruisers, and on to the village of Minca for the night. Day 5, July 21. Morning departure from Minca to explore the road upward to the El Dorado Lodge. Last afternoon bird walk. Day 6-7, July 22-23. Two days in vicinity of El Dorado Lodge. Day 8, July 24. Early departure from El Dorado Lodge; mid-elevation birding (below the “Y” road fork where road construction has the road completely blocked from 7 a.m. onward), lunch in Minca; p.m. drive to Barranquilla. Day 9, July 25. Various international flight departures today. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Caribbean Colombia, 2019 KEY hd = heard (preceded by (*) [ ] = seen/hd by SH (Hilty) and/or AP (Alexander Pinto) red = migrants from North America (boreal migrants) boldface blue = endemic or near endemic species Violet = birds of interest BIRDS: subspecies are provided for a few species with taxonomic issues. For more information see SACC (South American Checklist Committee) web page. At least 20 endemic recorded. TINAMIDAE *Little Tinamou, Crypturellus soui , heard along Gaviotas Road CRACIDAE Chestnut-winged Chachalaca, Ortalis garrula (E), B/q (skittish and hard to see) Band-tailed Guan, Penelope argyrotis , numerous around El Dorado Lodge; coming to grain feeders and compost (see photo opposite, 2019. Sickle-winged Guan, Chamaepetes goudotii , much less evident than previous guan; 3 seen ODONTOPHORIDAE Crested Bobwhite, Colinus cristatus , group of 8-9 in Camarones area *Black-fronted Wood-Quail, Odontophorus atrifrons , heard our last morning descending from El Dorado; none near Lodge Figure 3. Band -tailed Guan, El Dorado. Photo S. Hilty 2019 COLUMBIDAE Rock Pigeon, Columba livia , towns and cities; 100s B/q Pale-vented Pigeon, Patagioenas speciosa , Gaviotas Rd., above Minca last day Bare-eyed Pigeon, Patagioenas corensis , desert areas (“google-eyes) Band-tailed Pigeon, Patagioenas fasciata , highlands higher elevations of Santa Marta Mts. (mostly <2000 m) Common Ground-Dove, Columbina passerina , 1 at B/q Ruddy Ground-Dove, Columbina talpacoti , lower elevations Scaled Dove,