No. 43 CHELSEA SOCIETY NEWSLETTER

www.chelseasociety.org.uk charity no. 276264 April 2016 The Changing Character of Chelsea damian greenish

As I wandered through “Old Chelsea” has changed significantly over its long and CONTENTS from to Petyt Hall to distinguished history and no more so than attend last year’s Summer Meeting, I was over the last 60 years. So when we look at Planning Report ...... 3 struck by just how lucky I am to have the history of Chelsea, what do we see? been able to spend so much of my life Planning Updates ...... 5 in this extraordinary and unique part The evolving character Transport: Crossrail update ...... 7 of . There are the traditional landed families, During 2015 the Society spent many originally inheriting from the Sloane Walking into the Future ...... 8 hours talking about the character of sisters, who did much to influence the Betty Woolf – Campaigner ...... 9 Chelsea (one of the objects of the Society modern make-up of Chelsea and of course is to promote interest in the history, continue to do so. There is the radical Hugh Krall Exhibition ...... 11 character and traditions of Chelsea) in tradition that gave us the great social Gillian Best: Social Housing...... 13 the context of a number of proposals for housing estates of the late 19th century Chelsea that we feel may impact adversely which still exist. Chelsea is and always Membership Secretary...... 14 on that character. But, what is that has been a cosmopolitan borough with a Blue Plaques for Women...... 15 character; how do we define it and what is wide ranging demographic. The rich and it that we are seeking to preserve? powerful choose to live here in their fine Dates for your Diary...... 16 It was Heraclitus who said “There houses, but alongside the middle classes is nothing permanent except change.” and ordinary working families. It may now History confirms that – after all, Chelsea be less obvious and diminished in size, u Picture: Michael Bach Picture:

FREE EXHIBITION 13th - 26th June 2016 11am - 7pm - daily

Duke of York Square, King’s Road SW3

The former Six Bells pub, latterly Henry J Bean’s – now The Ivy Chelsea Garden see Dates for your Diary on the back page

1 THE CHELSEA SOCIETY Cover Story

u but there is still an active community and Chelsea cottages and magnificent one place from another? It is its physical of artists, painters, writers and poets 1930s mansion blocks. Just look at Old and human characteristics, its history, who live and work here and a bohemian Church Street, with Chelsea Old Church, its geography, and of course its people. tradition of providing alternative outlets the Old Rectory, the former Wright’s Diary, It is those factors that determine a for their work from the soulless West End. the Chelsea Arts Club, Sloane House, place’s unique character and that is Chelsea comprises a number of village the Mendelsohn house, and a singular why Chelsea has its own special and communities which together make up selection of small shops, houses, studios distinguishable character. the borough. and flats – all in one street running from the bottom to the top of Chelsea. Plus ça change, plus The bedrock c’est la même chose? Then there are the great institutions, Our youthful past However, that character needs to be some old and some more recent Perhaps most famous of all, the King’s preserved and the factors that make up but always names that resonate and Road: the artery of the Borough. It may that character need to be nurtured. Over are instantly recognisable: The Royal have lost some of its innovation and the the years the Society has achieved many Hospital, the Duke of York’s, the Royal excitement of the “swinging sixties” and successes (and suffered some failures) as Court, the Physic Garden, the Chelsea its punk shock of the 1970s. Perhaps “the we address issues that we believe threaten Arts Club, Peter Jones, and the World’s Chelsea Set” and the Sloane Rangers the essence of the place. Of course, End to name but a few. There are the are now less obviously identifiable. elements of the character have changed open spaces such as Sloane Square, the Nevertheless, there are still hanging and future changes are inevitable. Duke of York’s, Burton’s Court, Cremorne on some of those small independent However, when the Society is asked to Gardens and Dovehouse Green with boutiques and outlets selling their comment on or respond to proposals, the the many communal (if often private) eclectic wares which is what made it first question that we must ask ourselves gardens. There are the churches, clubs, so different. is: how will this impact on the character cinemas, galleries, concert halls, schools, Every place has a personality and of Chelsea as a place? Our support will shops, restaurants and offices and the although different places may have a always be dependent on being satisfied Chelsea riverside with the Lots Road lot in common, like people, no two are that the unique character of Chelsea will Power Station. There are great houses exactly the same. What distinguishes be preserved for future generations. n Picture: Michael Bach Picture:

Chelsea on the move

THE CHELSEA SOCIETY 2 Planning Report Planning Report Michael Stephen

basis, one of which was from Chelsea, Future of Chelsea RBKC Local Plan leaving one engine permanently We have drafted, consulted, debated and We have considered and commented on stationed here. adopted Policy Guidelines for the Future the partial review by RBKC of its Local Plan The Fire Brigade says that it has of Chelsea. The paper was presented to and have published our response on the continued to meet its London-wide a public meeting on 2nd November 2015 Society’s website at http://chelseasociety. average attendance time target of and is on the Society’s website at: http:// org.uk/chelsea-society-comments-on- six minutes for a first fire engine and chelseasociety.org.uk/the-future-of- rbkc-local-plan/ eight minutes for a second while the13 chelsea-whats-next/ appliances have been out of service. If the Housing and 13 fire engines were returned to service, Crossrail 2 Planning Bill they believe that this would improve We have consulted widely on Crossrail We have opposed the Government’s average London-wide attendance times 2 and have debated the issue with the plans to privatise part of the planning by around four seconds for the first membership and the general public at system. See http://chelseasociety.org.uk/ engine and by around 18 seconds for the well-attended meetings on 2 and 23 privatisation-in-planning/ second engine. November 2015. We support Crossrail 2 generally, but the members voted at the Upward Extensions Curzon Cinema AGM to oppose a station in Chelsea, and We have opposed the Government’s plans On 17 July 2015 we wrote to RBKC in the Council of the Society has endorsed to allow upward extensions of buildings support of the revised plans to redevelop that position. The Society’s response to without planning permission http:// this site, which retained the cinema with Transport for London was published on chelseasociety.org.uk/extra-storeys- the provision of step-free access, and the the Society’s website on 21 December without-permission/ pub on the King’s Road frontage. Planning 2015 at http://chelseasociety.org.uk/ permission has now been granted and crossrail-2-station-chelsea-2/ Duke of York Square we have since met with the architects to On 7 January 2016 Greg Hands MP discuss the detail of the front elevation. At the invitation of Cadogan, the Chairman wrote to the Managing Director of TfL We have written to RBKC supporting the and I met on 18 December with their http://www.greghands.com/news/ designs presented to us by Cadogan. Chief Executive and architect to discuss rt-hon-greg-hands-mps-submission- the design for their proposed new café in crossrail-2-consultation expressing his New Hotel at Sloane Duke of York Square to replace the existing preference for a station at Imperial Wharf temporary structure. The Society has Square and asking for a further study to be written to RBKC supporting the proposal. done. The problem with this is that the Cadogan were granted planning consent Work is likely to start in early 2017, with tunnelling would probably still be under in 2012 to convert One Sloane Gardens completion end 2017. the buildings of Chelsea, and one or more into hotel accommodation with 38 rooms. Electric Cars - We wrote to RBKC, and large ventilation shafts would have to be Having now attracted a prestigious on 25 January received the following reply, constructed somewhere in Chelsea. brand, to operate the hotel, Cadogan “we will do our utmost to minimise the are proposing a number of changes to Sutton Estate impact of the charging points on local improve upon the currently consented residents and visitors. They will only be scheme, which will be submitted as a We have considered the important installed in locations suitable for long-term new planning application later this year. planning application made by Affinity parking so they will not cause obstruction If granted, the Coste Hotel would be Sutton for their estate in Chelsea, and our to traffic. The bays will only be available for completed in early 2019. response was published on the Society’s vehicles while charging their batteries. website on 23 December 2015. See http:// Chelsea Old Town Hall chelseasociety.org.uk/response-to- Chelsea Fire Station planning-application-by-affinity-sutton- On 25 February the members of the In August 2013 thirteen fire engines in homes-for-the-william-sutton-estate- Planning Committee and Sarah Farrugia London were withdrawn on a temporary chelsea/ and James Thompson met at the Old Town

3 THE CHELSEA SOCIETY Planning Report

Hall with the architects appointed by RBKC to refurbish the building. There would be no structural alterations and the proposed changes were relatively minor. We made some suggestions concerning disabled Ward Reports access, closed-loop audio systems, toilet Michael Stephen facilities, and cloakrooms. We asked to be kept in touch as the proposals Reports were received from ward representatives on the are developed, and before any work Planning Committee on the following subjects: is contracted. Stanley Ward – Patrick Baty • gas works Architects • Disruption that will be caused by major • West London River Group construction projects in west Chelsea. On 25 February the members of the Planning • Redevelopment of Chelsea FC stadium Royal Hospital Ward Committee and Sarah Farrugia and James – Chris Lenon Thompson met Michael Squire, senior partner Riverside Ward – Martyn Baker • Royal Hospital draft conservation of a firm employing 125 architects. The • The impact of the gas pipeline area appraisal meeting was at his request, and he explained enhancement project starting in • Cycle Quietways to us the general principles on which his firm February 2016 from Stanley Bridge and • Development pressures bases proposals for development in Chelsea going eastwards along King’s Road and • Physic Garden and Westminster. We had an interesting then up Gunter Grove to discussion in the course of which we gave • Thames Tideway Tunnel/ our view that Chelsea has a very special style Cremorne Wharf Brompton & Hans Town Ward and character which needs to be respected. • Counters Creek storm relief sewer - Paul Aitkenhead Chelsea is not a blank canvas on which • Lots Road power station • Former John Lewis clearings architects can paint at will. There are some • Chelsea FC stadium and meeting with • Former car showroom sites where a completely innovative design Mark Chetwynd, chief transport policy and workshop – 60 would be appropriate and others where it officer of RBKC Sloane Avenue would not. n

Moravian Close – former Moravian Burial Ground

THE CHELSEA SOCIETY 4 Planning Updates Planning Updates Michael BACH

196-222 King’s Road: Chelsea Building Government changes Curzon Cinema, Habitat, Trafalgar: Society to planning Timetable: the cinema will close - March The Chelsea Building Society merged with The Government decided in 2013 2017 and demolition starts - June 2017; the Yorkshire Building Society in 2010 and to allow offices to turn into housing estimated completion – Mid 2019 as from September 2016 will be rebranded without needing planning consent. Liscarten House, 131 accordingly. However, the Chelsea branch RBKC was exempted because of the at 110-112 King’s Road will be closing in likely adverse impact on businesses, : June and the nearest branch will be at 255 especially premises for small business. (Now called George House) High Street – the former chief Now they propose to remove the This was completed in February. Ongoing office of the CBS. exemption in May 2019, but invite works are RBKC roadtworks front and rear. Chelsea was first established in 1875 as the Council to justify any further the London & Camberwell Building Society. exemption. : Three years later, in 1878, the Borough of However, they now propose Small artisan shops (butcher, greengrocer, Chelsea Permanent Building Society was to allow light industrial uses and baker, etc) and restaurant on Pavilion Road formed. Over the years both societies launderettes (why?) to turn into are being marketed right now. The little merged with smaller societies and on 31 housing without planning consent. The shops should be open by mid-2016 and December 1966 the two societies merged Government’s only concern is to create the restaurant should be up and trading by to create a new society called the Chelsea more housing – they are not concerned Christmas 2016. and South London Building Society until about the importance of these other April 1971 when the name was changed uses to the community. There are still Cadogan Arms to Chelsea Building Society. The Yorkshire five launderettes in Chelsea – there is Building Society Group is the fourth largest still a need for them, even if today they Work will start in August 2016 and take building society in the UK. are dry-cleaners as well. n 12 months.

Lottery grant for the Brompton Terence Bendixson

The Brompton Cemetery, long in need of Parks Foundation. hope that this will minimise their impact conservation and repair, has been offered The money will pay for the repair and on the central arch while providing a café, grants of £6.2 million to repair the central restoration of Benjamin Baud’s 1840 chapel visitor centre, lavatories and other useful chapel and colonnades, create a visitor and colonnades (loosely modelled on St accommodation. centre next to the and Peter’s at Rome), the improvement of natural Arthur Tait, Chairman of the Friends of carry out other conservation works. habitats in the cemetery, and the conversion Brompton Cemetery, said that additional , which own and of the North Entrance into a visitor centre. space would provide ‘a hub for volunteering manage the Grade I cemetery, have been Some residents consider that the addition of (and) training’ at the same time as the given £4.5 million by the Big Lottery and substantial wings to the south or cemetery cemetery would continue to be ‘a place of Heritage Lottery Funds. They will add to side of Baud’s neo-classical entrance is relaxation for children and families while still that £1.2 million from their own grants with a mistake. The architects, who have put being a haven for those who want peace, a further £500,000 coming from the Royal the wings as far as possible to the sides, quiet and beauty.’ n

5 THE CHELSEA SOCIETY Planning Updates Conservation Area Appraisals: Progress Report

Michael BACH

If you live in a conservation area – as treated by retaining original features and little clue as to how the conservation areas most of you do – you may be familiar where there were real opportunities for might be enhanced. It is not clear who with the Conservation Area Proposals enhancing the buildings or the street. will be promoting improvements, what Statements (CAPS) that the Borough The Council has been concerned that residents should be expected to do and produced in the 1970s and 1980s. These these documents would be considered what planning officers should be trying to documents met the requirements “out-of-date” - although the date of achieve in terms of improvements. of planning legislation to declare adoption does not necessarily mean conservation areas, but also to draw up that they are no longer relevant. The So where are we up to? proposals for preserving and enhancing Council, however, took Government policy The review of all the CAPS is now half their character and appearance. advice too literally and have stripped out way through. New Conservation Area The CAPS included not only a history of anything that looked like “guidance” – that Appraisals have been adopted for Lots the area and a street-by-street assessment, is providing advice on how to interpret Road Village (November 2014), Sloane but also considered how the policies in the the Local Plan policies in particular Stanley (October 2015) and, most recently, Borough’s local plan should be interpreted circumstances. The new Conservation Chelsea Conservation Area (January 2016). locally, by identifying where additional Area Appraisals are almost entirely Still to come are: Chelsea Park Carlyle; storeys might be appropriate and what descriptive documents – much more Cheyne; Royal Hospital; Sloane Square and sort, how street boundaries should be colourful than the CAPS – but provide Thames CAAs. n Picture: Michael Bach Picture:

Metrobank – opened 13 April

THE CHELSEA SOCIETY 6 Transport Crossrail Update Michael Bach

Following the TfL consultation, the initial analysis revealed the large number of objections against a station in the King’s Road. A fuller analysis of the results and

TfL’s response is due shortly. Michael Bach Picture: Since then the Government has indicated strong support for Crossrail because of its regeneration benefits elsewhere in London. Lord Adonis, chairman of the Government’s National Infrastructure Commission, whilst endorsing the project as a national priority and urging the Government to release funding for further development studies, indicated that further work was needed on the business case. The Chancellor allocated £80m for further studies as part of the Budget last month. The project has become an issue in the forthcoming Mayoral election, with Zac Goldsmith endorsing Crossrail2 and Sadiq Khan saying that, if elected, he will review plans to build a station for Crossrail2 in Chelsea, as well as the option of a station at Imperial Wharf. n

Site of possible Crossrail station Quietways: Cycling off the main roads Michael Bach

Chelsea is an ideal place to walk and could get lost or still have to face crossing cycle – as long as you don’t have to main roads. fight the traffic in the main roads. Its The Mayor of London and the compact, high-density layout means Council have proposed a Quietway – a that most of its amenities are within backstreet, cross-country route from easy reach – and it is flat! Using a car is Dovehouse Street to St Leonard’s Terrace, as much a liability as a convenience – via Cale Street, Elystan Place, Tryon Street, the popular places are difficult to find across King’s Road to Royal Avenue and parking. So walking and cycling are St Leonard’s Terrace. To help cyclists convenient and quick. cross both Sydney Street and the King’s Many people are put off cycling Road, raised crossings will be installed on the main roads, although they are and Tryon Street would become a one- seen as familiar and direct for some way street with no entry for cars from trips travelling east-west. But what if King’s Road. This scheme is likely to be you need to go “cross-country” – you approved shortly. n Quietway routes for LBKC 7 THE CHELSEA SOCIETY Transport Walking into the future Terence Bendixson

Residents of Chelsea are great walkers. thinking of monuments like the Wellington allocating the proceeds to improved bus The reasons are partly cultural (How do Arch at Hyde Park Corner.) Sitte reckoned and tube services? With traffic running I say it without being too snobbish? Can that if such structures could be plonked more smoothly, emissions per mile would I get away with ‘people like us’ walk?), down across the Ringstrasse this would go down and the buses would run more and partly to do with the physique of both slow the traffic and convert bits of quickly. And given that congestion in the Borough. Starting from anybody’s the road into squares or ‘people places.’ places like Pinner and Bromley is awful, front door there are, almost invariably, So… what about placing lightweight charging at a lower price could then be lots of useful destinations within walking variants of this idea in the King’s Road at extended right out to the M25. distance. When I tell friends elsewhere the thresholds of the extensions to Duke of If this all seems ridiculous bear in mind that, living as I do in Elm Park Gardens, York Square. An architectural competition the findings of Peter Jones, professor it is a short walk to three cinemas, three and a modest budget might sort that of transport at UCL. His recent research convenience stores (M&S, Tesco and out. I see, as one possibility, gleaming identifies four stages in thinking about Sainsbury), a post office, umpteen eating stainless steel arches that would be lit travel in London. First came (and went) places, an underground station and a at night but something more classical the 1960s motorway mania; realisation supermarket, they are flabbergasted. is a possibility too. Such markers would then dawned that it was more useful Chelsea is also good for walking be inappropriate for Chelsea Green but to improve bus and rail services and, because, though there is too much traffic maybe something might also be done to finally, after 1995 Londoners saw a mix in the King’s and Fulham Roads, they are signal the boundaries of the extension of of congestion charging, cycleways, more narrow, relatively easy to cross and lined by Dovehouse Green. room for walking (as in the Exhibition Road decent pavements. Many back streets are So much for roadworks, what should and in front of the National Gallery) and less busy and visual delights. be done about the halitosis of our beloved new undergrounds. Stage 4 is still to come But could conditions for walking be cars? The recent Volkswagen scandal has and is likely to involve still more space for made better? Could we who live and work drawn attention to the damage that diesel walkers and cyclists and may also involve in Chelsea be persuaded to walk more and soot does to our lungs but, whether an driverless taxis. drive less? Can we find ways in which to engine is petrol or diesel, it is a crude rule I am sure that many residents will see celebrate the pleasures of walking? that the bigger the engine, the greater this as wild fantasy but it can hardly be I think we can assume that no one at the volume of pollutants coming out of its said that present arrangements work well. the Town Hall is going to propose in the exhaust pipes. Some of these emissions My life is made easy by my bicycle but I near future to change Sloane Square from damage us, some contribute to climate do hear from others an awful lot about being a traffic roundabout. But, might the change: either way the less the better. traffic congestion. Would you solve that Council change the paving in the King’s Residents already pay varying amounts problem by, say, widening the King’s Road? Road opposite Duke of York Square, in for their parking permits depending on Might it not make greater sense to have front of Dovehouse Green and around engine size. What about loading an extra more dependable bus services and better Chelsea Green? Might they replace the £500 onto permits for Chelsea Tractors and conditions for walking? That is certainly asphalt with raised brick paving slightly other vehicles of that power? Might that where policy is going. ramped where it joined the ordinary help to keep the tractors in their stables in PS. Finally here is good news about roadway. The idea would be to tell drivers Gloucestershire? The cost of other permits cycling. Not long ago I was, quite that they were entering somewhere would be graded down to nothing for cars improperly, riding at night along the King’s slightly different - ‘people places’? with electric batteries. Road without lights. After passing another Camillo Sitte, an early urbanist and Could anything else be done to clean cyclist waiting to mount near Oakley Austrian architect, confronted by the the air we inhale as we walk? What about Street, I stopped at Tesco’s for milk. When I uncrossable enormity of the Ringstrasse expanding congestion charging out to came out of the shop the same rider was in fin de siècle Vienna, proposed to tame the North and South Circulars, varying standing by my bike. First she made me feel movement along the circular boulevard the rate by time of day (top charges like a small boy for my lack of lights: then with great triumphal arches. (He was in rush hours) and by engine size, and she told me she was 88. Ride on Chelsea! n

THE CHELSEA SOCIETY 8 Chelsea People

Betty Woolf – Campaigner For Chelsea Michael Bach

The Chelsea Society has always had a campaigning side to its activities – there have always been battles to fight.

Recently one of the Society’s most Michael Bach Picture: redoubted campaigners, Betty Woolf, died on 29 December. Betty twice led the fight to save the Lots Road area community from major road schemes, promoted first by the GLC and then a second by Government, she managed to persuade the Council to protect the area by declaring it a General Improvement Area, secured first the night ban on heavy lorries on the Earl’s Court one-way System which led to the London- wide Night and Weekend Lorry Ban, she helped form the Ashburnham Community Centre and rescued the gates of Cremorne Gardens. Few people can claim such a legacy. Betty moved to Chelsea in 1960 when her husband Jesmond was offered the GP practice at 21 Cremorne Road. Jesmond was the first GP in the Worlds End Health Centre and Betty acted as receptionist. One of Betty’s early achievements was to help to create the Ashburnham Community Centre. The battle to save the Lots Road Area In 1972 she helped fight the development at the public inquiry Cremorne Gate and prove that this was not a local relief road but major highway which would area, so did not go away during August! bomb damage to provide a new public plough through the Lots Road area and To the fury of the officials it ran for twice open space. destroy the Chelsea Embankment. This the time they had allocated and it is the scheme was abandoned following the only time that the Council had lost such a West London Traffic 1973 GLC elections. public inquiry. Reform After years of blight the Council In 1976 Betty succeeded in persuading So when I first met Betty in 1977/78, she wanted to demolish the World’s End the Council to make the Lots Road already had several successful campaigns area south of Cremorne Road. Betty Area a General Improvement Area, under her belt. It was Betty’s idea to form represented the Ashburnham Community which saved the area from demolition. an umbrella group to oppose the revival of Centre to oppose this at a public inquiry Between 1976 and 1988 much of the this route and to tackle the traffic problems at Chelsea Town in August. Councillors did housing was rehabilitated and Westfield associated with the Earl’s Court one-way not realise that this was a working-class Park was created on the site of former System – originally designed to deal with

9 THE CHELSEA SOCIETY Chelsea People

traffic congestion during the Ideal Home reopening of the for Exhibition in 1964. It had become a rat-run a local passenger service – which we for heavy lorries driving through London. achieved by 1995. Betty and I, with help from volunteers from

Response Community Projects, started a Michael Bach Picture: Cremorne Gates campaign for a night-time lorry ban on The original Cremorne Gates, which the one-way System. “Save Earl’s Court – now stand in the diminished Cremorne Ban the Juggernaut”. It took us less than Gardens on the Embankment, owe their two years to achieve the ban - we were resurrection to her. Alec Froud, the local fortunate that the time was ripe. Lots Road - achieved Conservation dustman and a patient of the practice, Together we set up West London Traffic Area status told her that after the brewery in Lots Reform (WLTR) – an umbrella group of Road had been knocked down the gates some 40+ residents’ groups led by Betty, were rotting in the dustyard near Chelsea May Maguire and myself, supported by WEIR – 1985-1990 Bridge. That was all she needed, the Lesley Lewis and Hugh Krall from the Before we could celebrate, the Council said they could not afford to Chelsea Society. Government decided to revive the repair them. She pointed out that the then motorway option – this time called the Government was financing an apprentice London Night and Western Environmental Improvement training scheme. Today the gates look Weekend Lorry Ban – Route (WEIR) – following lobbying by beautiful. RBKC. From 1985 to 1990 Chelsea had this Betty was a member of the Chelsea 1980-1986 project looming over it. WLTR took every Society Council from 1978 to 1985 and in Our next project was to get the opportunity to raise people’s awareness, 2002 she was one of the first to get the commitment of the Labour Group on the particularly at the local elections. By 1990 Mayor’s Award. Greater London Council to campaign for even the Council had realised that such Following Betty’s success in saving the a London-wide night and weekend lorry a scheme was very unpopular and the Lots Road Area, the Society asked for the ban, which they set about implementing coalition led by WLTR secured the support Lots Road Area to become a conservation after the 1981 GLC Elections. This led to a of the Council in opposing the scheme. area – this has only recently been major inquiry led by Derek Wood QC but it Shortly before the 1990 Borough elections achieved. was not until 1986, just before the GLC was the Government decided to abandon the She was an incredible woman and abolished, that the London-wide night and proposal. a wonderful, much missed and faithful weekend lorry ban came into effect. It still WLTR then joined forces with West friend. As one person said “people like her operates today. London RoadWatch to promote the are thin on the ground these days.” n Picture: Michael Bach Picture:

Chelsea Academy: Public Art

THE CHELSEA SOCIETY 10 Chelsea Society Events

Hugh Krall’s Riverside Exhibition: 29 September – 3 October

Camilla Mountain

It was only after a highly successful the artist behind the Society’s greetings known Hugh Krall. From Monday to and lengthy career as an architect in cards and as a designer for many of the Saturday ‘The Gallery’ was filled with private practice that Hugh Krall officially exhibitions. As a result, a large number people, most of whom spent a long time turned his talent to the artistic world. of members who came to study more of examining each work, such is the detail in He enrolled in the printmaking class at the beautiful, detailed drawings and to Krall’s work. It was a fabulous exhibition. Heatherley School of Fine Art as a part- remember and reminisce about Battersea If you missed the Hugh Krall exhibition, time student and became fascinated Flour Mills before Montevetro and before it will be on display again at Heatherley by etching on copper, relief printing on the demolition of the Morgan’s Crucible School of Fine Art, Lots Road, from 3 to 13 wood, lino and MDF. Works. But the exhibition also attracted May 2016. Full details will be sent out in His draughtsmanship is extraordinary a whole raft of people who had never future mailing. n and it seems to come naturally to Krall, which explains why he so quickly became skilled in etching, engraving and relief printing. His subject matter was also a natural choice. In 1951, Krall and his wife bought a canal boat for a home and spent part of their honeymoon towing it to its Cheyne Walk mooring in front of Lindsey House. After a few years they moved to dry land: but not far. They made their home on the corner of Cheyne Walk, within sight of their original mooring and Krall’s favourite location – the River Thames. His beautiful drawings are considered reminiscent of Whistler, but the outlines of boats, buildings and bridges could be drawn by no one else. Having lived and drawn the river for over half a decade, Krall’s vast catalogue is a detailed illustration of the changes that have happened on, and along the river in Chelsea. An extremely modest man, Krall rarely exhibits his work but was persuaded to allow the Society to exhibit 35 of his prints. A venue was sought and Cadogan came to the rescue and lent the temporarily unoccupied 43 Cadogan Gardens. Once stripped of its previous incarnation, it transformed into the perfect space and The Changing River at Chelsea was on display for six days at the end of September. Krall is well known to all Chelsea Society members, not only as he was he Honorary Secretary for years, but also as Cadogan meets Hugh Krall

11 THE CHELSEA SOCIETY Chelsea Society Events

Apsley House Visit 21 October 2015

John Doncaster

On 21 October members of the Chelsea Society gathered at Apsley House, often known as Number One, London, perhaps the grandest address in the country. Apsley House is famous in its own right for its commanding position at Hyde Park Corner, but it is more generally known for its association with the hero of Waterloo, Arthur Wellesley, 1st Duke of Wellington. The house dates from 1771, when Baron Apsley commissioned Robert Adam to build him a town house. In 1807 it was bought by Wellington’s older brother, Richard, who nearly bankrupted himself by spending his fortune on the building. He was bailed out by his brother Arthur, on whom a grateful country had lavished many rewards, including a grant of £700,000 for him to build a place in the manner of Marlborough and Blenheim. But Arthur decided that Number No 1, London One, London, with suitable extensions and alterations, would do very well for someone of his status. So he engaged the younger Wyatt to expand the house. Then, in 1828, when he became Prime Minister, Wellington made further alterations and additions to elevate the house to show the pre-eminence of Britain and that of himself as head of state. The house became the town residence of the Iron Duke and a centre of the social and political life of London. Following the death of Wellington in Interior views, Apsley House 1852, the second duke decided to open the house, so the public could see not only who died of battle wounds in World War the house but the collection of treasures II, Gerald, the 7th Duke, decided to offer heaped on the 1st Duke, who had, in 1838, the house to the nation, both as fitting caused legislation to be drawn up to forbid memorial to the 1st Duke and as the any subsequent heir from disposing of any logical place for a Wellington Museum. of the paintings, silver and other treasures. The house is now in the hands of English As a result the house is in many ways Heritage who maintain and staff the much as the 1st Duke left it. house. The Wellesley family, now headed In 1947, following the death of both by the 9th duke, however, still keep private the 5th Duke, and his heir the 6th Duke apartments there. n

THE CHELSEA SOCIETY 12 Chelsea Society Events

Gillian Best’s talk on Social Housing 26 October 2015, Chelsea Old Town Hall

Terence Bendixson

Chelsea has for many years, starting with Great War, four remarkable men took it Samuel Lewis Trust, in particular, went on philanthropists and then the Council, upon themselves to do something about building after 1918. sought to provide houses for poorer the problems so vividly described by In our time Gillian drew attention to residents. Gillian Best, a member of the Dickens. Gillian showed portraits of William how the ‘right to buy’ given to Council Society’s governing Council, and for many Sutton, haulier, Edward Guinness, heir to house tenants by Mrs Thatcher, led in years a video and events producer, told the brewing fortune, George Peabody, Chelsea, in due course, to two former this story to a packed audience at Chelsea American businessman and Samuel Lewis, Council flats, with the Michelin Building Old Town Hall and then, in an inspired moneylender, all of whose housing estates next door and Stella McCartney’s shop on concluding moment, introduced several can still be seen dotted about amongst the ground floor, being put on the market residents whom she had encountered Chelsea’s modern-day, millionaire houses. for a million pounds each in 2015. while doing her research. Some of these All were men with a social conscience. Meanwhile, thanks to the strange ‘real’ Chelsea people then took part in the And all, before the days when socialist obligation put on developers who build ensuing debate. reformers had identified the state as a for the rich to provide ‘affordable’ housing Gillian’s research, commissioned by primary agency of welfare, set to work as well, Kingsgate House (on the site of the Society and published on its website individually, via wills and bequests, to the former Penguin Books office in King’s as ‘From Hovel to Penthouse’, began in do something about overcrowding and Road), which is run by Catalyst Housing 1753 when the death of Sir Hans Sloane poverty. And, as Gillian showed, with Ltd, was able to offer two four-bedroom led to the creation of the Cadogan estate Chelsea’s population rising from 11,604 in penthouses to tenants on the Borough and much aristocratic benevolence. Yet 1801, to 56,000 in 1851 and 74,000 in 1901, Council’s housing waiting list. this did not, of course, save Chelsea from it was by the last date that overcrowding Gillian was, rightly in my view, unwilling being, like so much of Victorian London, had become acute. As was reported in to be drawn on the future for social housing a place where poverty, overcrowding and the muck-raking Chelsea Pick and Shovel in Chelsea, but she did stress how deeply disease afflicted huge numbers of people, of 1900, living five to six to a room was impressed she was by Laura Johnson, the attracted the outrage of reformers such commonplace and even worse conditions Council’s director of housing. Here, she as Charles Dickens, and in due course led could be found. said, was a woman of vision, dedication to Bazalgette’s sewers, the philanthropic The rise of the Labour party, the and ability who, in addition to her work in housing movement and finally, after World shock of the First World War and the need K&C, chairs a London-wide committee of War I, the empowering of local authorities to ‘build homes for heroes’ led to the Borough directors of housing for City Hall. It to build houses for the poor. beginning of the Council house era and, was a good note on which to end. Had not It was Chelsea’s good fortune that, in due course, though not immediately, Chelsea in the past benefitted particularly in the period between 1870 and the to the end of philanthropic housing. The from individuals of vision and generosity? n

The Royal Borough’s Beacon Picture: RBKC Picture: On Thursday 21 April the Royal Borough Robert Freeman, and the Governor of of Kensington and Chelsea marked Her the Royal Hospital, General Sir Redmond Majesty The Queen’s 90th birthday by Watt, were joined by Earl and Countess lighting a special beacon at the Royal Cadogan, the Leader of the Council, Nick Hospital Chelsea. Paget-Brown, members of the Council The borough’s beacon joined over and Chelsea Pensioners, who gathered to 1,000 others being lit up and down the witness the Royal Hospital’s Regimental country as part of a royal tradition. Quartermaster, Sergeant Mark Smith, light The Mayor of the Royal Borough, Cllr the beacon. n

13 THE CHELSEA SOCIETY Chelsea Society Roles Who Would A Membership Secretary Be? Allan Kelly

I think it was about two years ago, quite My database is a work of art. Chasing early one evening, when the phone members who forget to renew their rang disturbing the dog’s slumber and subscriptions is almost an obsession. interrupting my concentration on the (Now that we only take renewals by direct Treasurer crossword. debits my life will be empty in January). It was Sarah Farrugia – she of the sweet Nothing on television? Then spend a talking voice and dangerous persuasive fascinating evening trying to claim Gift Wanted chat. (Remember how she got John Aid from the Inland Revenue. Only they You may be aware we are looking for Simpson to become our President?). could make a simple process so complex a new Treasurer to run the financial Normally one needs a degree of that you wonder if life is worth living. I accounts for the Society. This will suit introduction to approach a stranger. Not console myself that I am not involved with someone who is good with numbers our Sarah. Both feet in having recognised Health and Safety, which I am told, is a and has an interest in financial him in a café. The poor man did not stand true nightmare. I have a worrying feeling it budgeting and raising funds for us. a chance – I know how he must have felt. could be on its way. We have a strong system in place so At least I had previously (stupidly) filled Although only an admin role it is it will be easy to take over and can in a questionnaire in the newsletter so it fascinating being a member of the Council take just a few hours a week. If you are was my own fault for the cold call. It asked and hearing arguments for and against interested in finding out more about for volunteers and an area of expertise. contentious issues facing Chelsea. At the this important role then please email Well I thought I might do a spot of admin end of the day I feel I am doing a useful Hon Secretary on HonSecretary@ so duly ticked that box and posted it off. job. Of course I am because the sweet- chelseasociety.org.uk n Hardly had it been delivered than I got talking, honeyed voice tells me so! n the fatal phone call. “Would I be interested in becoming the Society’s Membership Secretary?”. I think not. This was not my idea of a spot of admin. The honeyed voice continued “probably about an hour a week”. (Downright lies). Not difficult (more lies). “You would be perfect” (she did not know me from Adam). Realising she was not giving up I gave in. So why me? Because - surprise surprise - there was nobody else!! Charming. The job is anything but “an hour a week” more like an hour every day. This age of computers is supposed to make life simpler. Do not believe it. I am permanently surrounded by pieces of paper. Maybe I am doing something wrong or is it that I belong to that pre computer generation? And as for Twitter and Titter forget it. There is of course a certain satisfaction in collecting and organising membership details if you are that type of sad person!

THE CHELSEA SOCIETY 14 Chelsea People Blue Plaques for Women

L English Heritage has decided to CHELSEA increase the number of women that are New Blue Plaque recognised by Blue Plaques. Only 13% of Samuel Beckett (1906-1989): The London’s Blue Plaques celebrate the lives Irish Nobel Prize-winning playwright of women – but Chelsea, always ahead of and author lived in London for three BLUE the curve, has 14 out of 51 Blue Plaques to years in the mid-1930s during which women – 27%. time he was seeking literary work, To mark Women’s History month and attending psychoanalysis at PLAQUES this March, English Heritage is seeking the Tavistock Clinic. The plaque will mark the house, 48 Paultons Square, C nominations for women who should be E L E N commemorated. where Beckett was staying in 1934 E B M E R A O M Is there anyone you would like to when his first full-length work, a T I N G W nominate more women for a Blue Plaque? collection of interlinked short stories If so, contact: called More Pricks than Kicks, was [email protected] published, and his lodging and For details how to nominate look at: living experiences of London were Princess Seraphine Astafieva – ballet http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/ beginning to form his ideas for his dancer – The Pheasantry, 152 King’s blue-plaques/propose-a-plaque/ first novel, Murphy (1938).n Road Dorothy Bland (Mrs Jordan) - actress – 30 Cadogan Place Evelyn de Morgan – artist – 127 Old Church Street George Eliot – author – 4 Cheyne Walk

Picture: English Heritage Picture: Mrs Elizabeth Gaskell – novelist – 93 Cheyne Walk Joyce Grenfell – entertainer and writer – 34 Elm Park Gardens Lillie Langtry – actress – 21 Pont Street Jennie Lee – politician – 23 Clivedon Place Dame Maud McCarthy – Army Matron in Chief - 47 Markham Square Sylvia Pankhurst – suffragette campaigner – 120 Cheyne Walk Jean Rhys – writer – 22 Paultons House, Paultons Square Dame Sybil Thorndyke – actress – 6 Carlyle Square Elisabeth Welch – singer – Ovington Court, Ovington Gardens Jane Francesca, Lady Wilde – poet and essayist – 87 Oakley Street

Jean Rhys Blue Plaque 22 Paultons House

15 THE CHELSEA SOCIETY Dates for your Diary

Dates: Anniversaries Exhibition: Hugh Krall’s pictures Heatherley In 2016 School of Art 3-13 May 950th: Battle of Hastings (14 October)

Election for Mayor of London and the Greater 400th: Death of Shakespeare (23 April) The Globe London Assembly 5 May Theatre 350th: Fire of London: “Fire! Fire!” Museum of London Chelsea Society Exhibition “Royal Chelsea”, (From 23 July) http://www.museumoflondon. Duke of York Square 13-25 June org.uk/london-wall/whats-on/exhibitions- displays/fire-fire

European Union Referendum 23 June 300th: Capability Brown: Year of the English Garden

Summer Meeting 12 July 150th: Founding of London’s Blue Plaque Scheme 150th: Birth of Doggett’s Coat and Badge Race: Chelsea 125th: Chelsea Arts Club: http://chelseaartsclub.com/ Embankment 20 July home-public/history/

Cricket match Chelsea Society v Chelsea Arts 50+ Rolling Stones: Exhibitionism: the Rolling Stones at from 5 April to 4 September Club, Burton Court 7 September stonesexhibitionism.com

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We would like everyone’s email address so we can alert you when we need your support. If you have not yet done so please send your email address to Allan Kelly at [email protected] Our website is at: www.chelseasociety.org.uk This Newsletter was edited by Michael Bach: michaelbach@madasafish. com The page layout was composed by Nicko Dalton, [email protected], www.nicko.me The newsletter printing was undertaken by: The London Printing Company The views expressed in this Newsletter are those of the individual contributors and not necessarily those of the Chelsea Society.

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THE CHELSEA SOCIETY 16