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N n in iRAASA Y I l g i n DUN CAAN Loch e S INVERARISH : S ishorn k E K y A c e u PPLL OOCKTC i a 1 i l l n 0 S i d 2 n L .7 ERBUSAIG LO f o SCALP AY m c KYYLELE BALMA h o . i c a PA BA Y o ls . h LU IB u

DUNAN Loch Als u k i KYLEAKI N ILLIN RED BBROADFORDROADFORD S BREAKISH GLEN

BARR t ch Ferry uisk GLE h KINL OCH Loch Loch g Slapi n Eishort ISLE T ORD ORNSA Y A S E L h Ho S Loc

F k S TARSK AV AI G L D CLAN E N O y DONAL D A CENTRE U YD TO KNO AR S AARMADRMAD AALELE e is ARD VASAR v e N h

c o POINT OF SLEA T AIRD OF L SLEA T MMALLAIGALLAIG a

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Snap shot l e The entry point to the by bridge

and ferry, South Skye and is steeped in a the richness and vibrancy of Gaelic culture – t explore and enjoy

25

Don’t miss the model town of Kyleakin Until the opening of the the village of Kyleakin was the main entry-point to the island, with two ferries shuttling back and fore on the five-minute crossing from Kyle of .

Now that the ferry traffic no longer streams through the village at regular intervals it is a peaceful place that is well Castle Moil Restaurant worth a visit. & King Haakon Bar At the beginning of the 19th century Lord MacDonald Kyleakin, Isle of Skye Tel: 01599 534164 conceived a grand plan to create a model town at Kyleakin which he proposed to call New Liverpool. However, in his classic book “Skye” (published by Birlinn in Edinburgh) the writer Derek Cooper observes: “A contemporary engraving Restaurant • Lounge Bar • Shop shows the ambitious project which would have been about the same size as present-day . The plans were Coffees • Lunches • Dinners – Local Seafood grandiose and too far-fetched to be realised. The houses Live Music – see What’s On section or check King Haakon Bar on Facebook themselves, two-storeyed (compared with the traditional Pool Table • Outside Patio Area one-storey cottage) would have remained empty even if they

26 had been built — the economy of the island could not have supported such an extravagant folly.” Kyleakin today is a pleasant little fishing village with a scattering of hotels, bars and good eating places as well as plenty of bed-and-breakfast accommodation and independent hostels. You can take boat trips into the strait that separates Skye from the mainland — Haakon’s Strait, hence the name Kyleakin — and pass under the road bridge. The bridge, incidentally, makes one of its landfalls as it hops across the water on an island called Eilean Ban which was once owned by the author Gavin Maxwell of “Ring of Bright Water” fame who stayed there while he studied its otter population. Eilean Ban also boasts a lighthouse designed by David and Thomas Stevenson which, although no longer used, still stands on this tiny outcrop under the shadow of the bridge. A new track behind Old Kyle Don’t miss Farm Road also makes for a worthwhile walk or, if you feel up to it, cycle. South Skye and Sleat 1 CASTLE MOIL Ruined castle overlooking Kyleakin harbour. In the Another must on a visit to Kyleakin is a walk to the semi-ruinous Castle Moil, straits between Kyleakin and you can also see which stands on a promontory a few Eilean Ban, the lighthouse island once home to “Ring of Bright hundred yards from the slipway. Derek Water” author Gavin Maxwell. Cooper writes: “For centuries it belonged to the MacKinnons as vassals 2 SABHAL MOR OSTAIG, Sleat. The restored farm steading which of the MacDonalds of Sleat. Legend says houses ’s only Gaelic college; a newer campus on the road that it was built by Saucy Mary, the to Armadale offers stunning views across the . daughter of a Norwegian king, for the purpose of levying a toll on ships 3 and gardens, which house the Museum of passing through the Kyles. Legend also the Isles. The woodland gardens boast some lovely walks and are says that she stretched a chain across from Kyleakin to Kyle to make sure that open all year round. no ship sailed through without paying 4 KINLOCH FOREST WALK Five-mile woodland walk, taking in the up — thus defying not only belief but abandoned settlement of Leitir Fura. all the known laws of engineering.” The irony of the Saucy Mary legend 5 KILCHRIST CHURCH Ancient church and graveyard just outside is not lost amongst those who Broadford, on the Elgol road. It is worth following the road all the campaigned against the extortionate tolls which were extracted by the Skye way to Elgol, a picturesque township offering superb views of the Bridge Company from 1995 until their and north into the heart of the Cuillin Hills. removal late in 2004! 6 So, don’t rush across the bridge and IRISHMAN’S POINT, Broadford This pleasant stroll from the head northwards on the main road: take main pier in Broadford is just one of a number of walks around the the brief detour into Kyleakin and stay village. awhile. ɀ

27 Published by West Publishing Company Limited, Pairc nan Craobh, Broadford, Isle of Skye IV49 9AP

TRACK LISTING 1 The Loch Tay Boat Song

2 Introduction The FREE V THE 3 South West Ross – Lochcarron, Plockton, Kyle 4 North West Ross – north of Lochcarron to Ullapool Holiday Guide 5 South Skye, Sleat and S6 outo the tI h skye and Sleat Portree, Central Skye and 7 North West Skye West Highlands S 8 North East Skye 9 Some Gaelic phrases

and Islands I 10 The Marquis of Huntly’s Farewell

11 Introduction T 12 Le Sud-ouest du Ross – Lochcarron, Plockton, Kyle

13 Le Nord-ouest du Ross – du nord O de Lochcarron jusqu’à Ullapool 14 Le Sud de Skye, Sleat et Mallaig 15 Portree, le Centre de Skye et Raasay 16 Le Nord-ouest de Skye R 17 Le Nord-est de Skye 18 Quelques phrases et expressions en Gaélique 19 Big John MacNeill’s Reel 20 Einleitung 5 14 23 21 Südwest-Ross – Lochcarron, Plockton, Kyle • Voices 22 Nordwest-Ross – nördlich von Lochcarron bis nach Ullapool Anna Murray | Ann Desseyn | Andreas Wolff 23 Süd-Skye, Sleat und Mallaig • Writer 24 Portree, Mittel-Skye und Raasay Iain Finlay Macleod 25 Nordwest-Skye • Translations 26 Nordost-Skye Gerlinde Krug | Fanny Fraser 27 Gälische Redewendungen 28 • Music The Barren Rocks of Aden Sgoil Chiùil na Gàidhealtachd (National Centre of Excellence in Traditional Music) Visit the glorious south and the “Garden of Skye” There are three entry points at the Museum of the Isles and the Stables and Canna to the west, and over the south end of Skye. The most convenient Restaurant and Gift Shop. There are Sound of Sleat to and the is the Skye Bridge, which crosses to the some stunning walks on the Clan mainland hills. island from Kyle of Lochalsh. Donald Skye estate. Incidentally, at the turn-off for If you want the experience of a ferry A left hand turn before reaching Clan Achnacloich you will see Sabhal Mor crossing there’s the Mallaig-Armadale Donald Skye will take you down to Ostaig, a beautifully-restored farm service operated by Caledonian and to one of the oldest hotels steading which houses part of the only MacBrayne. Then there’s the small on Skye, the Ardvasar Hotel, built in the further education college in Scotland turntable car ferry which plies the short early 1800s. From here you will be able where classes are taught using the crossing between Glenelg and Kylerhea to enjoy the magnificent views which Gaelic language. The main college from Easter through to October — but include the stunning campus in a truly magnificent building the road from Kylerhea to the main mountains whilst enjoying good Scottish sits on the coast further south. Here, Kyleakin-Broadford artery is narrow and cuisine. students are encouraged to learn skills in precipitous, so watch out! Further along the road towards business studies and related courses The former ferry point and fishing Broadford is a turning to Achnacloich. which will enable them to find village of Kyleakin boasts a number of This is the start of a loop road which employment in the Highlands and shops and hotels as well as independent takes in the small crofting townships of Islands while at the same time fostering hostels, and overlooking the harbour Ord and , with the ancient the use of their native tongue. Sabhal there are the ruins of Castle Moil while Tokavaig woodland and the ruined Mòr is also the venue for short summer in the straits between Kyle and Kyleakin Dunscaith Castle along the way. It is courses in a wide range of subjects you can see Eilean Ban — the well worth taking the detour on this including piping, clarsach playing and lighthouse island where “Ring of Bright road which offers spectacular views of the Gaelic language. Water” author Gavin Maxwell once the as well as the islands of Rum Having completed the Ord-Tarskavaig lived, and which now lies in the shadow of the Skye Bridge. Broadford itself is the largest village in the south of the island — a hub of shops, hotels, youth hostel and restaurants gathered round Broadford Bay. It is an ideal centre for exploring the south end. If you cross on the ferry from Mallaig to Armadale it is worthwhile lingering in Sleat, which by virtue of its relative greenness is commonly referred to as “The Garden of Skye”. Near Armadale is the Skye Visitor Centre, which includes the historic gardens surrounding the ruins of Armadale Armadale Castle, the award-winning

28 loop you rejoin the main road, and a few Further on you can branch off to breathtakingly beautiful spot with views miles on another short detour will take Kinloch with its forest walk, as well as north and west into the Cuillins and you to Isle and the Michelin-starred restaurant at south to Rum and the Small Isles. It’s which offer outstanding views across the Kinloch Lodge Hotel, or to the isolated worth taking a walk along the rocky Sound of Sleat to the rugged mainland township of Drumfearn which looks shore at Elgol, with its strange hills of Knoydart. Hotel Eilean Iarmain across Loch Eishort to Heaste. honeycomb cliffs, or round to and attached Am Praban bar offer a While in Sleat, it’s worth stopping at Glasnakille where you can see Spar warm welcome of their own, with a one of the many restaurants and hotels Cave. And from Elgol you can have the wide range of good home cooking and for a meal or just a snack — most of unforgettable experience of a boat trip fine cuisine on offer. You can also sample them use fresh local produce. into in the Cuillins. You can some single malts and blended Gaelic Once back in Broadford, there’s yet also find a choice of places to eat, and whiskies including Poit Dhubh, Tè Bheag another corner of the south end to be to stay. and MacNamara. While there, you can explored: the Elgol peninsula ought not Around Broadford itself there are a pop in to Buth Floraidh to see designer to be missed. The road winds out of number of walks to be enjoyed, tweeds and wools or have a look round Broadford past the ancient Kilchrist including a Forestry Commission walk or An Talla Dearg gallery. church and graveyard and on to Kilbride, a pleasant stroll past the pier to Back on the main road, and a few from where a rough track leads to the Irishman’s Point. For the more energetic miles apart, are Toravaig and Duisdale cleared townships of Suisinish and House Hotels owned and operated by . Further along the main road, a climb to the top of Beinn na Caillich partners Anne Gracie and Ken Gunn. The looking down Loch Slapin, is Torrin, (2,400ft) is rewarded by uninterrupted hotels have beautiful views to the Sound where the famous Skye Marble is panoramic views for miles around. of Sleat and beyond, as well as all the quarried. Round the loch is , And instead of rushing up the main luxury amenities you’d expect of four- where another rough track winds its way road to Portree, why not branch off and star establishments. As well as some four miles to the beach at take the old Moll road at the head of overseeing two award-winning hotels, (and for the keen walker Loch Ainort. The old road passes the fish Anne and Ken offer exclusive daily there are paths from here through the farm and winds round the coast, sailing trips onboard their luxury yacht Cuillins to ). affording fine views of Scalpay and ‘Solus Na Mara’ from April to From Kilmarie it’s only a few miles to Raasay, before rejoining the main road September. the end of the road, at Elgol — a at the Sconser golf course. ɀ

29 ARMADALE, SLEAT Stocking some of the finest produce available on Skye alongside some of the great produce from around the Highlands and Islands www.skyefarmshop.co.uk [email protected] 01 471 844462 Follow us on Facebook and Twitter Sea.fari Adventures Come and have a whale of a time! Daily boat trips and private charter from award-winning Sea.fari Adventures Wildlife and whale spotting trips Pure fun for all ages. Dep Mallaig Pontoons 07973 509387 • [email protected] www.whalespotting.co.uk

Isle of Skye Leather Co.

‘The Leather Shop’ Armadale Pier, Sleat

FamilyBusiness • Handmade Leather Craft Goods • Interactive Workshop Tel: 01471 844435/733 • www.isleofskyeleatherco.com

30 “ Thig a-steach! Come on in . . . ”

Traditional Music and theatre in stunning venues in south Skye

SEALL at Sabhal Mòr Ostaig, Sleat, Skye 2 miles north of Armadale,Armadale, A851 14 events in April and May fine dining exclusive sailing Go to www.seall.co.uk or refer to posters in the for details

Christine Primrose, Blair Douglas Arthur Cormack, Billy Ross ‘The Straw Chair’ Theatre Gabe McVarish, Anna Massie & Mairearad Green ‘Little Frankenstein’ Puppets Welsh Opera Students exclusive Cape Breton traditional music ‘Rura’ on tour daily sailing trips ‘Forsaken’ Spindrift Theatre on board hotel’s new yacht ‘Whisky Galore’ The National Theatre of Scotland Solus a Chuain RRossoss Ainslie & Jarlath Henderson with Ally Hutton Elvis McGonagall Comedy night ‘Rest Centre’ Right Lines Theatre %UXFH0ROVN\\ ÀGGOH istinctly skye ‘Metta’ in concert The Skye Festival / Fèis an Eilein in July and August TToo reserve tickets, just contact us and do not pay until the night! sleat, isle of skye, iv44 8re t: 01471 820 200 01471 844207 email: [email protected] [email protected] www.SKYEHOTEL.co.uk www.seall.co.uk

31 20,000 acres of Skye Clan Donald Skye is a large Highland estate The magic of Clan Donald Skye unfolds as Audio guides in several languages and for on the Sleat peninsula in South Skye. Once the visitor enters the gates and proceeds the visually impaired are available. Young part of the traditional lands of Clan Donald, down Lord MacDonald’s Drive into the 40- visitors can enjoy exploring the museum the estate was purchased by the Clan acre restored historical gardens of the with our children’s trails. Donald Lands Trust in 1971. The trust was estate. Here, between cultivated lawns and There is a lot to see, so allow yourself established to promote an understanding of beautifully planned terraces and herbaceous enough time. Most of our visitors spend the history and heritage of Clan Donald and gardens, stand towering trees, centuries old, between 45 minutes to an hour in the the Lordship of the Isles. As custodians of giving way to enchanted woodland walks museum. You will need more time if you are this wonderful estate, the trust has worked carpeted in seasonal wildflowers and researching your ancestors and planning to tirelessly to save and develop this important enriched with bird song. The drive ends at use the genealogical resources in the library, resource for the benefit of visitors to Skye the imposing ruins of Armadale Castle, which is housed in the museum. and, importantly, for the local community. designed by James Gillespie Graham and a As well as the ever-popular children’s The estate offers some stunning walks for monument to the aspirations and dreams of adventure playground, which is suitable for all levels of fitness, with views eastward the 19th Century Lords of Sleat. all ages, in 2013 Clan Donald introduced across the Sound of Sleat to Knoydart, or on The fully accredited Museum of the Isles, Armadale Activities offering visitors the the west of the peninsula across to the opened within the gardens in 2002, opportunity to engage in a range of exciting Cuillin mountain range. It is home to iconic incorporates the library and study centre. target sports. This year, this popular addition wildlife species including red deer, golden Here you can discover the history of the to Clan Donald will be offering clay pigeon eagles and sea eagles. Highlands and Islands through the story of shooting as well as archery, tomahawk The heart of the estate is its Visitors Clan Donald, its most powerful clan. throwing and air rifle shooting. Centre. First opened in May 1976, the ever- Six interconnecting galleries, each with Nestling within the beautiful grounds of expanding facilities of the centre have been their own theme, take you through 1,500 Armadale, Clan Donald is also able to offer enjoyed by increasing numbers of national years of history and culture of the area once holiday accommodation both for short and international visitors over the known as the Kingdom of the Isles. The breaks and longer visits. The Visitors Centre subsequent years. As a testimony to its drive MacDonalds — or Clan Donald — were boasts gift shops and a wonderful family for excellence, Visit Scotland awarded the Lords of the Isles and sit at the history of restaurant which often hosts special centre its fifth star as a visitors attraction in Gaeldom. Our museum follows their story musically-themed nights. You can also enjoy August 2013. and that of the Highlands. Clan Donald’s estate-produced venison and, if you wish, you can buy some to enjoy at home. rmadale Disabled facilities are provided by the ctivities centre and full information can be found on A our website, www. clandonald.com ɀ at CLAN DONALD SKYE COLAISTE GÀIDHLIG The Shed NH-ALABA Our specialities are Seafood and IONNSAICH Vegetarian Dishes served with leafy GÀIDHLIG salads including herbs and flowers THETHE supplied by local grower. Italian Soft Ice GGAELICAELIC Cream and Fresh Coffee and Cakes COLLEGECOLLEGE CAN TAKE AWAY OR SIT IN OUR CONSERVATORY — Open Daily — SCOTLAND ARMADALE PIER Telephone: 01471 844222/264 INLEARN GGAELICAELIC

CÙRSAICHEANHEAN AIR ASTTARAR FindFind out mmoreore aboutabout oourur ssupportedupported ARCHERY ddistanceistance llearningearning programmeprogramme fforor CLAY SHOOTING aanyonenyone wishing toto learnlearn oror iimprovemprove ttheirheir GGaelic.aelic. WWithith vvariousarious ententryrryy ddatesates AXE THROWING aandnd ttimetablesimetables ttoo ssuituit yyourour nneedseeds oourur ccoursesourses aarere ddesignedesigned ttoo eenablenable yyouou toto AIR RIFLES bbecomeecome ÁÁXHQWXHQW iinn tthehe llanguage.anguage. PrPPro-ro- www.armadaleactivities.com ggressionression ttoo degreedegree levellevel sstudytutudy tthroughhrough tthehe memediumdium ooff GGaelicaelic iiss alaalsolso [email protected] aavailable.vailable.

01471 844 305 01471 888449 [email protected] 07880 362 320 WWW.SMO.UHI.AC.UK

32 CLAN DONALD SKYESKYE Our legacy – YourYour experience

ARMADALE CASTLE

FÀILTE / WELCOME Welcome to Clan Donald Skye, the magnificent 20,000 acre estate in south Skye STUNNING SCENERY

STABLES RESTAURANT GIFT SHOPS MUSEUM OF THE ISLES

SELF CATERING LODGES ARMADALE ACTIVITIES GARDENS & WOODLAND WALKS www.clandonald.com Armadale, Sleat, Isle of Skye IV45 8RS • T: 01471 844305

VISITOR ATTRACTION Gardens and Woodland Wallks image courtesy of follow us online: Little People Portraits Skye www.littlepeopleportraitsskye.co.uk Armadale

ArHdOvTEaL sar Isle of Skye Where tranquility and pleasure meet... Only 800 metres from Armadale, in the south of Skye here the ferry from Mallaig brings you ‘over the sea to Skye’. Renowned for genuinely friendly, informal service. Ten recently renovated contemporary bedrooms, many with stunning sea views. Our restaurant and lounge bar offer the best of Scottish cuisine, including locally caught seafood. Our lounge and public bars offer a good range of malt whiskies, fine wines and real ales from the Isle of Skye. FOOD SERVED ALL DAY DURING THE SEASON

Ardvasar Hotel, Sleat, Isle of Skye, IV45 8RS Telephone 01471 844223 Email: [email protected] Web: www.ardvasarhotel.com ϢϢϢ

34 Elgol

Take time to enjoy what Broadford has to offer Just eight miles north of the Skye bridge on the A87, the village of Broadford Visit Spectacular offers a wide range of accessible facilities And the and attractions with which to waylay the with Small Isles travel-weary tourist

Perfectly placed between the spectacular Red Cuillin and the at Elgol distant mainland Torridon mountains, the village centrepiece is a landscaped garden area, where quiet picnics can be on the enjoyed while watching ducks dabble on the foreshore — a Isle of Skye truly relaxing and tranquil spot. If you prefer eating indoors, the village also has a wide Misty Isle Boat Trips range of cafes, restaurants and hotels, and a full range of Sealladh na Mara services including a 24-hour filling station, a hospital, a post Elgol office, library, bank, pharmacy, supermarket, and a range of Isle Of Skye gift and book shops — plenty there to cater for all your IV49 9BL needs. The village is also home to the wildife charity, the [email protected] International Otter Survival Fund, and the Skye Serpentarium — Scotland's only serpentarium and refuge. Tel: 01471 866 288 Broadford is an ideal base from which to explore south Skye. mistyisleboattrips.co.uk So, whatever your length of stay, take time out from travelling and enjoy stunning scenery, a quiet picnic, or a wide range of services. Broadford, the second-largest village on Skye, has a lot to offer. ɀ

35 A B RS to TOU -UP TAXI LINK PRIVATE HIRE “Fish and Chips from this seafront BROADFORD takeaway are the best on the island” 07919957456 • 01471 820162 &&''SYRXV]½PIQEKE^MRI Freshly prepared rolls / sandwiches / soup / pies / toasties paninis / homemade cakes / fresh ground coffee available all day Chip shop frying from 12:30 daily

T: 01471 822158 Keep dogs under www.waterfront-takeaway.co.uk Keep dogs under close control. Broadford, Isle of Skye IV49 9AB control Located on the A87 next to the elgol road The countryside is a great place to exercise dogs, but it’s every owner’s duty to make sure their dog is not a danger or nuisance to The farm animals, wildlife or other HandspinnerHandspinner people. Remember to protect your dog Having Fun against ticks.

Also, remember to pick up after A beautiful range of hand your pet! knitted garments, hand spun yarns, hand dyed yarns and exciting woolly items

Old Pier Road, Broadford, Isle of Skye IV49 9AE www.handspinnerhavingfun.com Tel: 01471 822876

AWARD WINNING REPTILE CENTRE AND COFFEE SHOP

A REFUGE FOR COFFEE SHOP Garth Duncan NEGLECTED AND ILLEGALLY IMPORTED REPTILES A warm friendly welcome Master Goldsmith See snakes, lizards, frogs and tortoises We specialise in quality home-made gateau, Design Jeweller and Knife Maker from around the world cakes, biscuits, fresh cream scones, etc FREQUENT SNAKE-HANDLING Tasty home-made soup and sandwiches Really good coffee – filter, latte, espresso, SESSIONS cappuccino, including Fairtrade, Organic DUNCANUNCCAAN HHOUSOUSE Experienced enthusiastic member of staff always in attendance and Rainforest Alliance Certified IT’S INFORMATIVE AND IT’S FUN HOT CHOCOLATE AND A SELECTION OF TEAS AND COLD DRINKS Fine Jewellery SOFTENING PEOPLES’ ATTITUDE TO REPTILES AND Sit in or food to go • Suitable for vegetarians ENCOURAGING RESPONISIBLE PET OWNERSHIP Gifts and local produce for sale Gifts, toys and books for sale Isle of Skye Ice Cream BRIC-A-BRAC STALL Off-sales for Gaelic Whisky and Isle of Skye Beer AN EXPERIENCE OF A LIFETIME EDUCATIONAL WILDLIFE DISPLAY FOR ALL AGES • You’ll want to come back • Two minutes walk from Broadford on the main Broadford to Kyleakin road COACHES WELCOME – AMPLE PARKING Open Easter to October The Old Mill, Broadford, Isle of Skye IV49 9AQ The Old Mill, Broadford, Isle of Skye IV49 9AQ Telephone 01471 822209 Telephone 01471 822800 Tel: 01471 866 366 | www.duncan-house.com

36 Jewellery gallery, workshop and gifts

Contemporary and traditional designs All local and Scottish products

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Love from Skye, Main Street, Broadford, Isle of Skye, IV49 9AE 01471 822 600 www.lovefromskye.co.uk [email protected] Find us next door to Remax, across from the Dunollie Hotel. Car park at rear of building. Check out The Visitor website at www.welcometothehighlands.com

3pm Sunday, Broadford, Isle of Skye. Upstairs in the CO-OP building, petrol station side.

THE Hebridean Hotel Comfortable Rooms 14 , Broadford, Great Food Craft Encounters Isle of Skye IV49 9AQ Lounge Bar Cask Ales …and a Gifts and Crafts very warm from the Isle of Skye welcome

Broadford

01471 822201

[email protected] Open all year round [email protected] Tel 01471 822486 www.hebrideanhotel.co.uk Owner: Linda Armstrong

EAT, DRINK, RELAX

Our locally sourced menu includes delicious freshly made pizza from our Tuscan wood fired oven. Enjoy speciality wines and cocktails as well as our artisan drum fired coffees, roasted in-house. Relax beneath the Red Cuillin hills in a family friendly atmosphere. Food served all day.

BroadfordBroadford • Isle of SkSkyeye • 0014711471 822616822616 wwww.cafesia.co.ukww.cafeesia.sia.co.uk

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