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ST. petersburg

June - July 2013

Parks and Palaces Visit the former homes of the Tsars White Nights Rooftop terraces and summer festivals

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June - July 2013 No89 st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com Contents 3

Restaurants 25 Russian, Italian, rooftop terraces and more

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Nightlife 38 Bars, pubs and clubs – how to stay out till 6 am Contents Sightseeing Foreword 4 The essentials 42 A word from our editor Hermitage 43

News 5 Shopping 48 What’s new in the city What to buy and where

Basics and Language 6 Expat and Lifestyle 51 Some useful information Expat Experience, Religious Services and more

Culture and Events 8 Getting around Ballet, opera, concerts and exhibitions Transport, tickets and more 53 Maps 54 Features St. Petersburg’s Historical Outskirts 15 Russia 58 Islands: Krestovsky and Yelagin 20 Moscow 59 Veliky Novgorod and Staraya Russa 61 Hotels 21 Kazan 64 A fine selection of places to spend the night Nizhny Novgorod 66

st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 4 Foreword news 5

It’s official now. Summer is here. After the ridiculously long winter we can now finally enjoy the famous white nights and Europe In Your Pocket Russia Day Summer in New Holland the magical midnight sun. We can attend amazing theatre The youngest of Russia’s many public holidays, Russia Day programmes and open-air festivals and go on boat tours is celebrated on the 12th of June. Originally it marked the around the canals and have cocktails on the city’s best Northern adoption of the new Russian constitution during the breaking rooftop terraces. We can devour a perfect Russian shashlik Ireland Estonia up of the Soviet Union. In 2002 the holiday was renamed Rus- Ireland at a street-side café and enjoy the classic sunbathing Latvia Russia sia Day, taking on symbolism of national unity and collective experience at the Peter and Paul Fortress beach. We can Lithuania responsibility for the present and future of Russia. There are watch the bridges rise and get wet in the famous fountains Belarus often fireworks and concerts, but the Russians are generally in Peterhof. Please feel welcome, you have chosen the best relatively ambivalent towards this public holiday. Some see time to be in St. Petersburg! Netherlands Poland Germany Ukraine the holiday’s roots as negative, arguing that the introduc- This charming 310 year-old city has managed to preserve Belgium Czech tion of a new Russian constitution sped up the collapse of its glory and beauty despite neglect during the Soviet period Republic the Soviet Union, for which there is substantial nostalgia. and the siege by the Germans during WWII. It is still one of Austria Switzerland Nevertheless, everyone welcomes a day off work and an op- This artificial island in the centre of the city was built by the most stunning cities in the world and one of the largest Slovenia Romania Georgia Croatia portunity to spend some more time at the dacha. 12th June Peter the Great in 1721 to be the first arsenal for his fleet in Europe. The city’s founder, Peter the Great, moved his Italy Bosnia Serbia is a time to congratulate all Russian people and to toast to of military ships. In later years it became a shipyard, then court from Moscow to the planned new settlement in 1703. Bulgaria Montenegro Kosovo the prosperity of the country and it inhabitants. a naval prison and a Soviet radio station before falling The city was quickly hailed as a victory of man over nature FYR Macedonia into disuse and neglect. Finally the area has been put as 40 islands were joined together by drawbridges at the Albania Greece to good use again and functions as a summer cultural Neva River delta. Yes, our city is literally built on islands, or oasis. The Summer in New Holland program features to be more accurate, on beautiful islands! Please check our farmers markets, cafes, urban gardening, concerts special feature on page 20 which is dedicated to two islands and DJ sets, craft fairs, garage sales, beach volleyball, which are a must for summer visits because of their green art installations, lectures and workshops and plenty parks, fresh air and, of course, the hottest bars and clubs in of space for picnics. Summer in New Holland will run the city. With so many activities and so many places to see It’s now 21 years since we published the first In Your until September 15, 2013, when the island will close for there’s something for everyone to enjoy. So, what are you Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time renovation, reopening in 2015. Entry to the island and waiting for? Put this guide in your pocket, grab your camera we have grown to become the largest publisher of all events are free. www.newhollandsp.ru and go find out what makes this city so special. Our team is locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover always happy to help you with your adventures. more than 75 cities across the continent (with Tbilisi, Ksenia Elzes, Editor St. Petersburg In Your Pocket in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, well-written and downright Stars of the White Nights Cover story indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each One of the most impressive music forums in Russia, this festival year is approaching five million. will be the platform for various ballets operas and symphonic The beautiful golden sculpture you programs. It was first held in 1993, it was conceived as a see on our cover is the famous Triton We also publish an iPhone app, including more than ‘musical gift’ to the city from the staff at the Mariinsky Theatre, Fountain in Peterhof. It is situated in and has since increased in length and variety. Each year the 40 guides, which can be downloaded for free from the program comprises of the best ballet and opera performances the Orangery Garden. The sculpture AppStore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. of Triton fighting with the sea monster from the Mariinsky Theatre, and this year promises to be no surrounded by 4 bronze turtles was different. And accompanied by the beauty of the White Nights To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Flames of Paris in The Mikhailovsky outside, who could complain? www.mariinsky.ru made after Rastrelli’s design in 1726. Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ Please find more information about This legendary ballet based on the events of the French Peterhof in our special feature on page inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ Revolution became a true classic of Soviet musical theatre 15. Photo by Dreamstime.com. inyourpocket). after it was first performed in 1932. Based on Felix Gras’ book ‘Les Marceliers’, its music takes inspiration from songs of the French Revolution, its choreography from both classical Russian ballet and international character dances, and its Editorial department Editor’s note spirit from the early Soviet Union searching for like-minded Editor The editorial content of In Your Pocket success stories in the revolutions of global history. The new Ksenia Elzes, [email protected] ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES guides is independent from paid-for production of Flames of Paris has more than a hundred people Layout & Design Malvina Markina advertising. working together to create a production that is both new and [email protected] We welcome all readers‘ comments and St. Petersburg In Your Pocket Research Elizaveta Bolshanina suggestions. We have made every effort to vivid but also brings back to life the original choreography and founded and published by [email protected] ensure the accuracy of the information at appearance of the show. Audiences in its early days would OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. PR Ksenia Elzes, [email protected] the time of going to press and assume no stand up and sing the Marseillaise along with the performers; Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Contributors responsibility for changes and errors. Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A, Rhiannon Fuller, Natasha Douglas, Yaël Kaiser today’s production tries to revive a little of that old romantic tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, Commercial department Санкт-Петербург В Твоем Кармане revolutionary spark. www.mikhailovsky.ru fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, Учредитель и издатель: [email protected] Sales Managers ООО «Красная Шапка» russia.inyourpocket.com Evgenia Smirnova Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург No longer just a Window on Europe? [email protected] Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. Publisher Bonnie van der Velde, Peter Smirnov тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 St. Petersburg may have been dubbed Peter the Great’s ‘win- Singing telegrams [email protected] [email protected] факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 dow on Europe’, but in recent years it’s not just the Europeans This is the first singing telegram service in St. Petersburg - or General director Tanya Skvortsova, To order issues Tanya Kharitonova [email protected] Главный редактор: Бонни ван дер Велде who have been visiting the city. The number of tourists coming even in Russia - founded by two Russian girls: Vera Alexan- [email protected] Отпечатано в ООО “МДМ-Печать”, Director Sales & Strategy Copyright notice 188640, Л.О., г. Вcеволожск, to St. Petersburg is on the up, and most of the new tourists drova and Marina Bakalova. This whole idea is not about Jerke Verschoor, [email protected] Всеволожский пр., 114 are coming from Asia and the Pacific region, particularly from professional singing or dancing, it is rather about bringing Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka o 2003-2013. Maps copyright the BCB-Group. All Заказ N 59-10 China. In 2012 the total number of visitors reached a stag- joy and unexpected emotions to people in the age of digital © OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket rights reserved. No part of this publication may be Свидетельство о регистрации средства gering six million, with over half coming from abroad. And it’s birthday cards. This service is for people who can not attend Published 6 times per year with reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for массовой информации Пи No. 2-6849 not just tourists who are flocking to the city, either. 2012 saw a party or see someone they love, but still want to send warm supplements, the purpose of review, without written permission от 17.10.03 выдано Северо-Западным No89, 01.06.2013, 90.000 copies from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand региональным управлением комитета the city host a number of international events, including the greetings and make a great surprise. The girls sing and do a © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, name In Your Pocket is used under license from РФ по печати. Цена свободная. XVII International Economic Forum and the 36th session of little funny dance for people on their birthdays and weddings www.jobvandermolen.nl UAB In Your Pocket. Тираж 90 000 экз. No89. 01.06.2013 the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Committee, and 2013 and parties in general. Like this idea? See more at www. is proving to be no different. facebook.com/singingtelegrams812

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 6 Basics AND LANGUAGE Basics AND LANGUAGE 7

Alcohol Be on guard! Useful Phrases The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. The Basic phrases Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what is certain Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking No/Yes Net/da Нет/Да is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendeleev loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian Hello Zdrastvuite Здравствуйте - are the ones who perfected the recipe. Vodka is cheap and Goodbye Dasvidaniya До свидания there are literally hundreds of brands to choose from; Russky descent exercise caution, particularly at night. 02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and don’t Thank you Spasibo Спасибо Standart, Diplomat and Zhuravly are pretty good. The most Sorry/excuse me Izvinite Извините traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty speak Russian it may be better to call the English lan- guage tourist helpine (+7) 812 300 33 33. Please Pazhalusta Пожалуйста snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in I don't understand Ya ne panimayu Я не понимаю Russia and Sovietskoye shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) The Tourist Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can help you file a police report. Your consulate can help you if your I don't speak Ya ne gavaryu Я не говорю по- is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol Russian pa-russky русски in shops that is above 0,5% between 23:00 and 08:00. passport has been stolen. The police here generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy your passport and Pocket dictionary: Belye nochi Do you speak Vy gavaritye pa- Вы говорите по- English? anglisky? английски? visa. Make sure that you always carry a few photocopies; Eternal daylight comes to St. Petersburg at the end of May Help! Pomogitye! Помогите! Foreigner Prices if the police stop you (they check Russians all the time too) when the white nights (belye nochi) begin. During the belye Go away! Ostavte menya! Оставьте меня! The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days then show them the photocopy rather than the original. nochi many locals begin to suffer from bessonitsa (insomnia) I need some help Mne nuzhna Мне нужна of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and and the desire to stay out party gets stronger. At its peak pomoshch помошь museums, foreigners are required to pay six to 20 times (usually during the first weeks of June) St. Petersburg, which I don't want Ya ne khachu Я не хочу more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist Health and Safety is positioned on the 59th parallel, usually only sees about I (don't) like it Mnye (ne) nravitsa Мне (не) that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the Despite the rumours, St. Petersburg is no more dangerous than one or two hours of a kind half-darkness. So prepare to нравиться ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you your average European city. Russian drivers are your biggest say “da svidaniya” (goodbye) to your “vnutrennie chasy” May I? Mozhno? Можно? work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price. danger, so cross roads carefully. In the winter icy streets and (body clock)! Do you have...? U vas est…? У вас есть...? huge icicles can also pose a danger so watch where you walk. I don't know Ya ne znayu Я не знаю The city’s water is chlorine treated due to parasites and heavy How much is it? Skolko stoit? Сколько стоит? Habits metals, so you can use it to brush your teeth or wash fruit. For It's expensive! Eta dorogo! Это дорого! When entering a Russian household, remember to take your drinking or making tea, it is better to stick to bottled water, More/less Yesho/menshe Еще/меньше shoes off as soon as you get inside. Usually your host will or clean the tap water with a filter and give it a good boil first. Large/small Bolshoy/malenky Большой/ offer you slippers. In terms of greetings, men shake hands маленкий with each other on meeting and if you’re a woman and you Good/bad Khorosho/plokho Хорошо/плохо hold your hand out to a man, don’t be suprised if it is not Mobile Phones It hurts! Bolno! Больно! shaken but kissed. Chivalry is alive and kicking! You can use your mobile phone if your provider has an inter- To da y Sevodnya Сегодня national roaming agreement with any of the Russian mobile Tomorrow Zaftra Завтра GSM phone providers in St. Petersburg. Normally, if you are Could you write it Zapishite Запишите, Customs abroad you have to pay roaming charges on all incoming and down? pazhalusta пожалуйста For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go outgoing calls. If you call to another Russian mobile phone, Toilets Tualet Туалет to the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT for a direct-dial number dial seven digits and for a federal Stop here please Ostanavite Остановите, need to complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration number dial 8 and then the 10-digit number. If you call from pazhalusta пожалуйста When? At what Kogda? Vo skolko? Когда? Во Statement’ upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying your mobile to a fixed line just dial the seven-digits. It may be Bridges Opening Schedule time? сколько? thousands of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons easiest to buy a local SIM card for use in your own phone. A What time is it? Katory chas? Который час? etc that are over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the pre-paid card account starts from around 150Rbl and includes Bridge Drawing Who? Kto? Кто? country. If you are in doubt about antiques you have bought about the same moneys worth of calls. To purchase, you need Dvortsovy 1:05 - 4:50 How do you say Kak skazat eto Как сказать это get an ‘expert’s report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura to show your passport, visa and registration. Blagoveshchensky 1:25 - 2:45, 3:10 - 5:00 that in Russian? pa-russky? по-русски? (Russian Cultural Security Department), Ul. Malaya Morskaya Sampsonievsky 2:10 - 2:45, 3:30 - 4:25 No problem Bez problem Без проблем 17, Open Mon - Fri 11:00 - 17:00 or an accredited shop. Money Grenadersky 2:45 - 3:45, 4:20 - 4:50 Of course Koneshno Конечно Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 Kantemirovsky 2:45 - 3:45, 4:20 - 4:50 Let's go together! Davay vmeste! Давай вместе! cigarettes and 2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in Troitsky 1:35 - 4:50 Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! С праздником! some countries such as Estonia, the allowance is less. denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins Liteiny 1:40 - 4:45 Password Parol Пароль come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a rouble and Birzhevoy 2:00 - 4:55 Climate kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or Tutchkov 2:00 - 2:55, 3:35 - 4:55 In the restaurant/bar euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels. Bolsheokhtinsky 2:00 - 5:00 Bill Please Shchot pazhalusta Счет, In June and July, during St. Petersburg’s glorious White Volodarsky 2:00 - 3:45, 4:15 - 5:45 пожалуйста Nights, the city’s weather is usually at its best. Tempera- Alexandra Nevskogo 2:20 - 5:10 I am a vegetarian Ya vegetarianets Я вегетарианец tures range from the low to mid teens at night (what little Queuing Finlyandsky 2:20 - 5:30 (Non) smoking (Ne) kuryashchee (Не) курящее of it the city sees anyway) to warm and pleasant tempera- It may seem improbable when confronted with the Russian place mesto место tures in the mid 20s during the day. Sudden storms and populace enmasse inside the metro but outside public I am allergic to… U menya allergiya У меня аллергия the occasional cloudy and windy day mean it’s best to be transport Russians adhere to queuing rules strictly. The modus Very tasty! Ochen vkusno! Очень вкусно! prepared – think layers, an umbrella and a folding paper fan. operandi involves fronting up to the dispersed group and asking Numbers ‘Kto pasledny?’ (Who’s last?), to which someone will answer 1 adin 12 dvinatsat 50 pyatdesyat ‘Ya’ (meaning me). Now all you need to do is wait for your turn. 2 dva 13 trinatsat 60 shesdesyat Alphabet 3 tri 14 chetyrnatsat 70 semdesyat Registration 4 chetyre 15 pyatnatsat 80 vosemdesyat 5 pyat 16 shesnatsat 90 devyanosta Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your 6 shest 17 semnatsat 100 sto arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). 7 sem 18 vosemnatsat 500 pyatsot Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of 8 vosem 19 devyatnatsat 1000 tysicha arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you 9 devyat 20 dvatsat 2000 dve tysyachi don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems 10 desyat 30 tritsat when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight 11 adinatsat 40 sorok while officials interrogate you.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 8 Culture & Events Culture & Events 9

Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After a day‘s hoofing 03.06 Monday it through the finest museums and historical locations, you June events 19:00 Pet Shop Boys Musical Collection can watch a play, ballet, opera or circus performance any and 02.06 Sunday E-3, Grand Concert Hall Oktyabrsky (BKZ), Ligovsky pr. every night you choose. 19:00 Hugh Laurie 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.pet- 29.05 Wednesday - E-3, Grand Concert Hall shopboys.co.uk. English electronic pop duo The Pet Shop 05.07 Friday Concert Halls and Clubs Oktyabrsky (BKZ), Ligovsky Boys are returning to Russia, a country they have been visiting VIII International pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. often in recent years. The duo is made up of lead vocalist Festival Musical Club A2 (A2) B-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, (+7) 812 380 80 50, www. Neil Tennant and Chris Lowe on keyboards and they met in a Collection tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.a2.fm hughlaurieblues.com. Award- record shop in London in August 1981. The Pet Shop Boys D-3, Grand Philharmonic Club Cosmonavt (COS) D-4, Ul. Bronnitskaya 24, winning English actor, musician have been performing consistently for over three decades and Hall, Mikhailovskaya MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, and singer Hugh Laurie, best are considered the most successful duo in UK music history ul. 2; Small Philhar- www.cosmonavt.su known for his role as the titular and misanthropic character on having sold more than 50 million albums. This concert will monic Hall, Nevsky pr. Grand Philharmonic Hall (GPH) D-2, Ul. Mikhailovs- the wildly successful TV show, House M.D. (which ran from 2004- feature compositions from their upcoming album, Electric, 30, MNevsky pr., tel. kaya 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 57, www. 2012) returns to Russia in support of his new blues album, Didn‘t as well as old hits, such as «West End Girls» and «Always on (+7) 812 710 42 90, philharmonia.spb.ru It Rain. This show is the follow up to his ambitious 2012 tour My Mind». Q Tickets 1,000 - 4,300Rbl. www.philharmonia.spb. Jazz Philharmonic Hall (JPH) С-3, Zagorodny pr. of America, Europe and Russia and promises to demonstrate ru. With this traditional 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 85 65, www. Laurie‘s unique talent for interpreting American blues standards Summer festival the St. jazz-hall.spb.ru as well as the compositions of more recent masters. In the past Petersburg Philharmony Ledovy Dvorets (LD) Pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshe- he has been known to play the piano, harmonica, guitar and will close its 92nd season. vikov, tel. +7 (812) 718 66 20, www.newarena.spb.ru saxophone in addition to singing and comes with the support Famous guests that will participate during the festival Mariinsky Concert Hall (MCH) C-4, Ul. Dekabris- of The Copper Bottom Band. Q Tickets 1,700 - 6,000Rbl. are Georgian pianist Eliso Virsaladze, the young violin- tov 37, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www. player Itamar Zorman, French pianist Hélène Grimaud mariinsky.ru 02.06 Sunday and Irish pianist Barry Douglas. A special performance Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ) E-3, Ligovsky 19:00 3 Doors Down can be expected from violin-player Gidon Kremer and pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 12 73, www. his Kremerata Baltica orchestra. The festival will have Ledovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. bkz.sp.ru its traditional concert on June 4th to commemorate (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.3doorsdown.com. American Saint Petersburg Opera (SPO) C-2, Galernaya ul. 33, 03.06 Monday the great conductor Yevgeny Mravinsky who headed rockers 3 DoorsDown formed in the southern state of Mis- MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 67 69, www.spbopera.ru the Philharmonic Orchestra during Soviet times for a sissippi in the mid 1990s and first struck gold with their single 20:00 Joe Cocker Sport Concert Complex (SKK) Pr. Gagarina 8, MPark staggering 50 years, from 1938 till 1988. Q Concerts «Kryptonite» in 2000, a song originally recorded as a demo Ledovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 388 21 64, www.spbckk.ru start at 19:00. and first heard on a local radio station. They were quickly tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.cocker.com. The raspy- signed to a major label and over the years they have sold voiced English singer Joe Cocker first achieved success with Theatres over 15 million albums worldwide. The band is known for its his 1968 cover of the Beatles, «With a Little Help From My Friends». He has always enjoyed unusual success in Russia E-3, Pl. Ostrovsk- live performances and it keeps its wheels oiled by perform- Alexandrinsky Theatre (AT) with hits like «You Can Leave Your Hat On», «Unchain My Heart», Open Look Dance Festival ogo 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 15 45, ing over 300 concerts a year. Q Tickets 1,250 - 4,000Rbl. and «Up Where We Belong». The Golden Globe, Oscar and en.alexandrinsky.ru. Grammy award-winning singer comes in support of his new C-2, Dvortso- Imperial Hermitage Theatre (IHT) album Fire it Up and, of course, will bring his unforgettable vaya nab. 34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76, and unique voice and idiosyncratic stage persona. Q Tickets www.balet-spb.ru. 2,000 - 15,000Rbl. Mariinsky Theatre (MAT) C-4, Teatralnaya pl.1, MSennaya pl, tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mari- 06.06 Thursday insky.ru. Mikhailovsky Theatre (MIT) D-3, Pl. Iskusstv 20:00 Lana del Rey 1, MNevsky pr, tel.(+7)812 595 43 19, www. Ledovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. mikhailovsky.ru. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.lanadelrey.com. American State Theatre of Music Comedy (MCT) D-3, ul. 02.06 Sunday singer-songwriter Lana Del Ray is making her first visit to Rus- Italianskaya 13, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76 20:00 The Offspring sia in support of her most recent effort, Born to Die: Paradise C-2, Sport Complex Yubileiny, pr. Dobrolyubova 18, MS- Edition. Her music has been said to be influenced by film noir portivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 40, www.offspring.com. and she is often compared with other such singers as Amy Buying Concert Tickets California punk rockers The Offspring have been tearing up Winehouse and Adele. But her fans know her for her unusual stages since 1984, first breaking through with their monster voice and stage charisma and she has built her following 01.07 Monday - 07.07 Sunday Tickets for most events can be bought at ticket offices 1994 hit, “Come Out and Play”. One of the rare bands in Rus- largely through festival appearances in North America and Different venues, check official website for details, and kiosks (teatralnaya kassa), of which there are many sia whose hits can be heard everywhere from rock clubs to Europe. She should be no stranger to Russia as Born to Die tel. (+7) 812 938 20 88, www.open-look.ru. The XV in the city centre – they are usually very easy to spot as discotheques, they are returning to St. Petersburg in support made it to the fourth position on the Russian charts last year. Anniversary International Summer Festival of Contem- they tend to be plastered in posters for concerts and of their most recent album, “DAYS GO BY!” but certainly will Q Tickets 2,200 - 7,000Rbl. porary Dance will be in the theatres of St. Petersburg shows. Of course each venue also sells its own tickets play such older hits as “Pretty Fly”, «The Kids Aren‘t Alright” in June 2013. The festival, originally a summer dance and some venues such as the Mariinsky Theatre also and «Why Don‘t You Get A Job”. Q Tickets 1,300 - 2,500Rbl. school, has come a long way since its conception in sell tickets online. There are also a number of online 1999, and is now one of the most anticipated dance services that allow you to reserve and/or buy tickets events in St Petersburg. The festival includes intensive online and most of them offer delivery anywhere in the master classes, discussions with foreign teachers, and city for an additional fee. projects with guest choreographers and international Kassir.ru The only comprehensive website that offers dance companies. This year, for the first time, the festival their event listings in English. Payment options include will include a dance marathon ‚Dance 24: Day and Night cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or credit of Dance‘. Be sure to check out the Open Gala, which card (MC/V). begins the festival and involves stars of contemporary Bileter.ru This site has the most comprehensive list- dance in Europe and the US. There‘s so much going on ings available, but is only in Russian. Payment options throughout the whole festival: head to the website to include cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) have a look for yourself. Q Tickets from 300Rbl. All-in or credit card (MC/V). ticket 3,000Rbl.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 10 Culture & Events Culture & Events 11

09.06 Sunday 13.06 Thursday 23.06 Sunday 19:00 Whitesnake 19:00 Eddie Izzard: 19:00 Green Day Alye Parusa E-3, Grand Concert Hall Oktyabrsky (BKZ), Ligovsky Force majeure Sport Concert Complex (SKK), pr. Gagarina 8, MPark pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www. E-3, Grand Concert Hall Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.greenday. whitesnake.com. British hard rockers Whitesnake will “go Oktyabrsky (BKZ), Ligov- com. California pop punk band Green Day are coming to again on its own” in St. Petersburg in June at the Oktyabrsky sky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, St. Petersburg in the midst of the White Nights for their first Concert Hall. Its history dates back to 1978, and while the tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, visit ever as part of their Uno! Dos! Tre! Tour in support of band‘s members have changed numerous times, one con- www.eddieizzard.com. Brit- their three albums, Uno!, Dos! and Tre! Led by lead vocalist stant has been its flamboyant lead singer, David Coverdale, ish comedian and actor Eddie and guitarist Billie Joe Armstrong and supported by bassist formerly of Deep Purple. While Whitesnake had its peak at the Izzard comes to Russia with Mike Dirnt, drummer Tre Cool (who clearly is getting some end of the 1980s and broke up in the 1990s, the group has a new comedy show as part respect via the tour‘s name), and guitarist Jason White, the been performing and recording consistently since regroup- of his Force Majeure 2013 band originally formed in 1987 before breaking through with ing in 2002 and has much more to offer than its mega hits World Tour. The tour will visit their 1994 single «Longview», which catapulted the band to “Here I Go Again” and “Is This Love”. Its most recent album is 25 countries from Cardiff to stardom and are credited with revitalizing mainstream interest Forevermore released in 2011. Q Tickets 1,000 - 4,300Rbl. Katmandu, from St. Petersburg in punk music. In the years since they have become one of to Mumbai. Izzard is well-know the world‘s best selling groups, selling over 75 million albums 11.06 Tuesday for his impovisational abilities and absurd comedy, as well and winning countless awards. Q Tickets 1,200 - 10,000Rbl. 20:00 Simple Plan as for his acting abilities having appeared in more than 100 D-4, Club Cosmonavt, ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhno- films. It isn‘t every comedian that can perform in countries logichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.simple- where their native language isn‘t widely spoken. But Izzard plan.com. French Canadian pop punk rockers Simple Plan is is hardly just any person: besides comedy in 2009 he ran 22.06 Saturday one of the rare bands to keep its original lineup intact since the 43 marathons in 51 days for charity, despite never having 23:00 Alye Parusa very beginning. The band formed in Montreal in 1999 and has run long-distance races before. Q Tickets 1,000 - 5,000Rbl. D-2, Palace Square, MAdmiralteiskaya. Translated released four studio albums over the years, with the most recent as Crimson Sails, this is the last day of school for St. being, “Get Your Heart On!” in 2011. The band is known for its 18.06 Tuesday Petersburg‘s high school graduates and one of the city‘s live performances and classic punk rock energy as well as its 20:00 Bonobo craziest holidays. Although it‘s primarily a holiday for dedication to its charity that has donated well over $100,000 D-4, Club Cosmonavt, ul. school leavers to run amok in the streets, the whole city for various good causes. They were even part of the closing Bronnitskaya 24, MTekh- usually gets involved as the bottom of Nevsky Prospekt ceremonies of the 2010 Olympics. Q Tickets 1,500 - 3,500Rbl. nologichesky institut, tel. and surrounding streets are closed to cars and open to (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. revelers. Youngsters swarm to the river to watch tall ships bonobomusic.com. Bonobo with (what else?) crimson sails passing under a firework is the pseudonym of British lit sky, while the local shops sell out of beer and cham- Sensation. Source of light DJ and producer Simon Green pagne. Entrance to the free concert on Palace Square is who is famous for his eclectic 23.06 Sunday - 24.06 Monday by invitation only so if you are not a Russian kid in the 08.06 Saturday, 22:00 assortment of trip hop, jazz 19:00 Turetsky Choir 11th grade, you will miss the chance to hear the Russian Sport Concert Complex (SKK), pr. Gagarina 8, and electronic beats. His first E-3, Grand Concert Hall Oktyabrsky, MPl. Vosstaniya, pop stars performing. MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 363 33 33, www. album, Animal Magic, was tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.arthor.ru. Khor Turetskogo radiorecord.ru. The electronic indoor dance music released in 2000 and he per- (Turetsky Choir) has won numerous awards ranging from the event, Sensation, returns with its new show «Source of formed all of the instruments and produced the album by Russian «Record» award to the American «Golden Crown», and 30.06 Sunday Light». This house dance music event, which originated himself. He was quickly signed to the independent label Ninja is considered one of the most successful ensembles in all of 20:00 New Order in the Netherlands, has toured more than 20 countries Tune and the contents of every album have differed from one Russia. Mikhail Turetsky, the leader of the group, was even D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. of the world on five continents for millions of spectators. to another, yet Bonobo always manages to stay true to the given the title of People‘s Artist of the Russian Federation (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.neworderonline.com. While As always, participants are asked to dress in white, even values and sound that informed his early experiments in down by Russia‘s then President Dmitry Medvedev in September many groups are called «cult» favourites, few can back it up in more fitting than usual as this show will take place during tempo and chill out music. He comes to St. Petersburg in sup- 2010. The collective was founded in 1990 and since then has the way that New Order can. Built on the ashes of post-punk St. Petersburg‘s famed White Nights period. Be sure to port of his recently released album, The North Borders, yet been travelling Russia and the world with its ten members group Joy Division who disbanded after the suicide of lead catch the show in St. Petersburg as this will be the only the performance will most certainly differ from the recorded forming a powerful a capella orchestra of sound ranging from singer Ian Curtis, New Order achieved reknown by combining event in the entire former Soviet Union in 2013. Q Tickets tracks. Bonobo performs live with an ensemble of musicians, the high of the tenor altino to the low of the basso profundo. New Wave and electronic music. The band‘s main creative 2,500 - 8,000Rbl. taking the centre of the stage himself with a bass guitar, Q Tickets 1,200 - 5,000Rbl. period was from 1980-1993 when they were one of the most thus allowing the experimentation in his music to continue. critically acclaimed and influential bands of the era. They have Q Tickets 1,200 - 2,500Rbl. 24.06 Monday been playing off and on again since 1998 and their upcom- 20:00 Depeche Mode ing performances in Russia will be their first in their 33 year 20.06 Thursday Sport Concert Complex career. Q Tickets 1,000 - 4,000Rbl. 19:00 Blackmore‘s Night (SKK), pr. Gagarina 8, E-3, Grand Concert Hall Oktyabrsky (BKZ), Ligovsky MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www. 812 380 80 50, www.de- blackmoresnight.com. Blackmore‘s Night is a traditional folk pechemode.com. British rock duo combining the efforts of Ritchie Blackmore and his electronic pop legends De- wife Candice Night. Blackmore, famous for being an original peche Mode are coming to member of Deep Purple and Rainbow, met Night when she St. Petersburg as part of their asked him for an autograph after a concert. They quickly dis- 2013 world tour. Since the covered a mutual interest in Renaissance music and formed band‘s inception over three the band several years later. Blackmore‘s Night is known for decades ago, they have consistently charted singles in Eu- their exquisite harmonies and romantic melodies that create rope and the United States, having sold more than 100 million an atmosphere of the European Middle Ages and the Renais- albums. The band is famous for its live performances led by sance, an epoch of troubadours, musketeers, fair maidens lead singer Dave Gahan, with its last tour alone selling more and court balls. The band is coming to St. Petersburg is sup- than 2.5 million tickets. No strangers to Russia‘s Northern port of its new works, A Knight in York, and The Beginning. capital, Depeche Mode comes in support of its recently Concertgoers are encouraged to wear clothes in a Middle released studio album - the band‘s 13th - Delta Machine. Q Ages style or traditional evening wear. Q 1,600 - 4,500Rbl. Tickets 3,200 - 12,000Rbl.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 12 Culture & Events Culture & Events 13

09.07 Tuesday Music of the Greater Hermitage 20:00 Joe Satriani Exhibitions BREAD D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov Through 30.06 Sunday 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. Fashionable Petersburg. Recreational Spaces (+7) 812 309 99 22, www. of Culture satriani.com. Legendary D-4, The Derzhavin museum, nab. reky Fontanky 118, guitar virtuoso Joe Satriani MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 335 09 82, supposedly took up the guitar www.museumpushkin.ru. This exhibition shows the various after hearing the news of Jimi aspects of cultural life of high-society Russians in the late Hendrix‘s death. He was at an eighteenth to mid-nineteenth centuries. Think masquerades, American football practice and hunting, parlour games and fancy balls. The exhibition takes promptly told his coach he had to quit to become a guitarist. the form of the recreated interiors of a living room, a ball room He started out as a guitar instructor teaching legions of young and a dressing room and includes contemporary reconstruc- metalists their craft, including Kirk Hammett of Metallica and tions of costumes and accessories by costume artist Anna Maria Joao Steve Vai. Over his storied career he has become one of the Nekrasovaya. Visitors will get acquainted with high society most influential guitar instrumentalists of all time and has etiquette, for example the correct way to write letters, the role 09.07 Tuesday - 12.07 Friday seemingly played with everyone of note from Mick Jagger and of duels and the language of flowers. Q Open 10:30 - 17:30, Music of the Greater Hermitage Festival Alice Cooper to Deep Purple and The Yardbirds. He comes Thu 13:00 - 20:30. Closed Tue. D-2, Hermitage Theatre, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MAd- to Russia in support of his 14th studio album, Unstoppable mitalteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 966 37 76, www.hermit- Momentum. Q Tickets 1,300 - 7,000Rbl. 29.06 Saturday - 28.07 Sunday agemusic.ru. In celebration of the Year of the Netherlands BREAD: a Chronicle of Krasnodar and the in Russia and the upcoming 250th anniversary of the 16.07 Tuesday Surrounding Area State Hermitage Museum, comes this varied programme 20:00 Iron Maiden Rizzordi Loft, Kurlyandskaya ul. 49, MNarvskaya, of classical, melodic, jazz, and baroque music performed Ledovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. tel. (+7) 812 702 90 62, www.rizzordi.org. This by some of the most talented young musicians in Europe. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.ironmaiden.com. Legendary exhibition aims to depart from conventional exhibition Every night of this festival‘s programme is different, featur- English heavy metal band Iron Maiden have played more methods, and instead takes a more artistic approach. ing performance of different lineups of musicians, including than 2000 concerts in their storied career which began The exhibition aims to present a collective speech in Norweigian and Polish jazz, Dutch Baroque ensemble and in 1975. Lead singer Bruce Dickinson recently remarked which discordant sounds of generations are united in Italian classical opera. Q Tickets 600 - 1,000Rbl. that it is a «great honour to return to St. Petersburg» and to a single chord of Krasnodar. Including the work of more Russia where the band has always been warmly received. than twenty artists, the exhibition aims to give a complete The Maiden England Show is a return to the band‘s roots in picture of the art of the region in recent years. Q Open July events a way as it is a reincarnation of the legendary set list from 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. their 1988-1989 tour and will certainly feature their famous 02.07 Tuesday mascot, Eddie. Fans can expect to hear such legendary hits 20:00 Die Antwoord as «Run to the Hills», «Wasted Years» and «The Number of 01.07 Monday - 31.08 Saturday D-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov the Beast». Having conquered the world by selling more than Through 30.06 Sunday Sand Sculpture Festival 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. 90 million albums, and have toured on five continents and in Max Planck Science Tunnel D-2, Beach of the Peter and Paul Fortress, MGorkovs- (+7) 812 309 99 22, www. 58 countries, Iron Maiden has certainly earned their battle D-2, Military-Historical Museum of Artillery, Engineer kaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. dieantwoord.com. Die An- stripes as one of the most successful metal bands of all time. and Signal Corps, Alexander Park 7, MGorkovskaya, tel. The annual Sand Sculpture Festival is theoretically designed twoord is a rap-rave group Q Tickets 1,500 - 4,500Rbl. (+7) 812 610 33 01, www.artillery-museum.ru. The Max with children in mind, but is fun for all ages. Sculptors from from Capetown, South Africa Planck Science Tunnel exhibition is coming to St Petersburg fronted by dueling vocalists 13.07 Saturday all over Europe, as well as from North America, will be taking as part of the Russian ‚Year of Germany‘. The exhibition part in the festival creating huge elaborate sculptures made Ninja and Yolandi Visser. Both Holi Festival is dedicated to the modern achievements of science and had been active in the South from sand in a whole manner of different amusing, intelligent, E-1, Stadium Arsenal, pr. Metallistov 51, MPl. Lenina. technology and looks at how science will change lives across African music scene before mystical and grandiose styles. Q Open 10:00 - 21:00. The St. Petersburg Festival of Colours promises to be a time the globe in the future. Designed for everyone regardless joining forces in 2008. They of ‚colour madness‘. Ten thousand participants will splash, of their scientific background, the exhibition incorporates released their debut album, $O$, through their website as sprinkle and coat one another with different coloured inks. interactive multimedia systems, films and interviews, and an a free download and initially gained popularity through their Based on the Indian festival ‚Holi‘, this festival has been abundance of information presented in a variety of different youtube videos. The band is well-known for their fanbase, celebrated in India and other countries for more than two mil- formats. Learn about the formation of clouds, the theories of having achieved a cult-like following and its image, music and lennia. And in 2013 it will come to Petersburg for the second different dimensions, and the biochemical processes of social style is inspired by zef culture, an Afrikaans word that means time. Come and have fun being splattered with paint. You adaption. Recommended for visitors aged 12+. Q Open «common». However, little promises to be «average» about only have to be outside the house for 5 minutes and you‘ll 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Thu of every month. this concert. Q Tickets 1,500 - 7,000Rbl. be covered from head to toe! Q Tickets from 600Rbl. Time: 15:00 - 22:00. How to get to A2: As the Petrogradskaya metro station will be closed for most of 2013, one has to plan an alternative route to get to A2 Club. The following is a list of above ground transportation options from nearby metro stations. From Gorkovskaya metro station: take marshrutkas К46, К76, or К223 or buses 46 or 46а From Lesnaya metro station: take marshrutkas К10, К369, or К131, or trolleybus 31 For all the latest concert, event and From Sportivnaya metro station: take marshrutkas К175, К10, or К149, or trolleybus 31 exhibition news follow us on facebook at From Chkalovskaya metro station: take marshrutka www.facebook.com/RussiaInYourPocket К131

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 14 Culture & Events FeatureS 15

Through 29.09 Sunday Sky. Plane. Grandfather. Leningrad Collection C-3, State Museum of the History of St. Petersburg, 29.06 Saturday - 29.07 Monday Rumyantsev Mansion, ul. Galernaya 45, MAdmiralteis- F-3, ART re.FLEX Gallery, pr. Bakunina 5, MPl. kaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 00 56, www.spbmuseum.ru. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 332 33 43, www.artreflex. With over 300 works by artists of the Leningrad Underground, ru. The Arendt family‘s rich history is well-known. In his this exhibition represents the city‘s famous unofficial art spare time, Nicholas A. Arendt observed the flight of birds, of the 1960s to the 1990s. Not only does the exhibition conducted experiments such as launching a frozen bird with include a wide range of works representative of the period, outstretched wings into the air, and spent long hours doing but the composition of the exhibition also reflects this era mathematical calculations. He wanted to design an aircraft of non-conformism: the paintings are displayed in a dense that would be heavier than air. This is the subject of the ‚tapestry‘, as was the case in the apartment exhibitions of Arendt family exhibition which will include embroidery by the 1960-1980s. The exhibition is accompanied by a series Mary Arendt, wooden models of gliders by Natalia Arendt, of photograph by G S Prikhodko depicting artistic life in the and plaster busts by Anatoly Grigoryev and Ariadne Arendt. ‚70s. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed last QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission free. Tue of the month.

the Vauxhall Pavilion, a title later morphed into the term St. Petersburg‘s Historical Outskirts vokzal and adopted to mean any significant railway station. Visit the grand palaces and parks of the Tsars Johann Strauss II and Franz Liszt can be counted among the performers in the late 1830s. The stations at Pavlovsk and No visit to St Petersburg would seem complete without particularly in Pushkin are noteworthy for their beautiful art Through January 2014 seeing Peter the Great‘s famous masterpiece of gold nouveau decoration and elegant chandeliers and mosaics. Gegenlicht. German Art from the George fountains and all things shiny, Peterhof. But south of the Life in the palaces around St Petersburg was pretty good for Economou Collection “Venice of the North” and along the Finnish Gulf surely must children too, provided, of course, that you were the children be the region of the world most densely populated with of nobility. In the Marble Room of the Alexander Palace, they D-2, The State Hermitage Museum, The General Staff palaces, each with its own splendour to rival Peter’s Summer built a slide that took up over half the room. Building, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. Palace. These are undeniable symbols of the decadence An even more daring version of this was to be found in the (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. This and absolute power of the Tsars. They are each as different park of the Oranienbaum estate (built from 1710 onwards) temporary exhibition of German art from the George Econo- Through 31.12 Tuesday as the tastes and fancies of those who owned them, from further along the Finnish gulf and was a bit like an early mou Collection explores the legacy of German Expressionism Man and Power in Russia in the 19th - 21st austere palaces and immaculate lawns to rolling parkland rollercoaster. From the elaborate pavilion, one would be and New Objectivity in post-war and contemporary art. The Centuries and landscaped gardens full of surprises. In this feature propelled downwards over a series of three hills on a cart exhibition brings together important works from the last we‘ve picked out the best parks, palaces and attractions, running along wooden tracks. Sadly (or perhaps fortunately, D-1, State Museum of Political History of Russia, ul. century, juxtaposing various pieces to show the influence but there‘s more to be said about them than could ever fit if you‘ve got a liking for health and safety) all that remains Kuibysheva 2/4, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 of earlier artists on those working in the latter part of the in our guide book - explore them for yourself! today is one grand pavilion. No expenses were spared in 48, www.polithistory.ru. The result of ten years‘ hard work, twentieth century. Accompanied by an illustrated catalogue designing the interiors and exteriors of their homes, and all this large-scale exhibition of Russian political history reflects in Russian and English including essays from prominent art passing European fads were catered to. contemporary academic discussion on the leadership of Rus- historians, the exhibition promises to be both accessible and Palaces Fit For A Tsar The Catherine Palace in Pushkin, built in its currently form in sia over the last three centuries. The combination of artefacts, thought-provoking for all those who visit. Q Open 10:30 - Much as any self-respecting Russian billionaire wouldn‘t be 1756 under orders from Empress Elizabeth, used a hundred art and eyewitness accounts, along with the widespread use 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. of interactive technology, and interesting methods of display seen dead without the latest tablet computer and state-of- kilograms of gold for the facade and was so insanely lavish allows the visitors to immerse themselves in the political his- the-art yacht controlled by smartphone app, Russian nobility that even Catherine the Great thought it was a bit much. And tory of the country and encourages them to draw their own settled for only the best in modern innovation and wizardry. the most ridiculous and stunning bit of all was the Amber conclusions. The ground floor is dedicated to the history of Built at the start of the 18th century, Peterhof‘s legendary Room, famed for its beauty and once named “the eighth the 19th and early 20th Centuries; the second to the Soviet fountains were an engineering marvel of their time, powered wonder of the world” (though that might have been a slight and post-Soviet eras. There is a special section dedicated entirely by cleverly manipulated water pressure without the exaggeration). It was decorated with over six tonnes worth of to the current political situation. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, need for pumps. The Alexander Palace in Pushkin (built amber panels backed with gold leaf and mirrors. After failing Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Thu and last Mon of the month. 1792-96) was early on electrified and telephones were to successfully remove it before German forces arrived they installed; there was even an early lift that went between covered it with wallpaper hoping nobody would notice, but of the children‘s rooms and the Empress’s suite, and a “home course the Germans had heard of it - before being installed cinema” in the Semicircular Hall came later. here it lived in Berlin. It only took the Germans 36 hours Another innovation was the first railway in Russia, built in to take apart. After being put on show in Königsberg (now 1837 between Vitebsky Vokzal (then Tsarskoselsky) and Kaliningrad) nobody knows quite where it went, some say Pushkin. At first carriages were drawn by horses taking buried in a mine, others say on a sunken submarine. Whilst wealthy residents of the capital to their summer homes the fate of the original Amber Room remains a mystery, in the imperial suburbs. More than just a transfer point, great efforts have been made to recreate it with the help of however, the Vitebsky station pavilion was a destination a generous benefactor, and it can now be seen at the palace Otto Dix, Ursus im Steckkissen, 1927 in itself and billed as an entertainment centre named once again in all its full glory.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 16 FeatureS FeatureS 17

Of course no luxury palace would be complete without Peterhof Must-Visits immaculate gardens in the latest styles. Peter was inspired by formal French styles at Peterhof, whilst at Pavlovsk the English landscape garden with sweeping lawns, lakes and pavilions was the flavour of the day. All sorts of exotic cultures had their moment in high fashion. The Catherine Park is a testament to this and is brimful of quirky bridges and stylized buildings. One of the largest is the Chinese Village, originally based on one of Catherine the Great‘s engravings, consisting of ten tiny houses and a theatre. Fake romantic-looking ruins, Egyptian and Greek temples, Dutch castles, an entire miniature world tour could be taken around the palace grounds. At Pavlovsk (built from 1777 onwards), Maria Fedorovna, the widow of Tsar Paul I, put a few more practical touches into the park. Yet another German princess who married into Russian royalty, Maria Fedorovna often wanted to be apart from the Attached onto the side of the Catherine Palace in Tsarskoe to be the famous Peterhof. Practicalities that stopped the intrigues of court and built herself a dairy in the palace gardens. Selo is the Imperial Lyceum, whose most famous pupil, 18th century architects of the palace were no match for To visit Peterhof is to travel back over three centuries in Distinguished guests would be offered simple country fare and Alexander Pushkin, went on to become Russia‘s most Putin and the original vision for fountains and bridges were time to an era of unchecked ambition, limitless power dairy products in contrast to the riches of the palace table. The famous and important poet. At the age of 14 he wrote his finally brought to life. and opulent beauty. Empress herself was even known to milk a cow or two. “Recollections at Tsarskoe Selo”, which brought him fame Not far from the palace is the dacha of Peter von Lindström, Apparently not ‘great’ enough when originally built, the amongst poetry circles of the day. Even at the time (the start doctor to a branch of the Romanov family; nowadays the Great Palace has been altered and expanded much over of the 19th century) he felt that the town had already fallen building hosts a restaurant and a museum of the 2006 G8 the course of its history and ownership. The exterior is from its former greatness, writing in the “Recollections”: summit, as well as an intriguing exhibit named “3 minutes surprisingly harmonious, given that it was over 200 years “Here every step gives birth to recollections in the soul of with Putin”. Don‘t get too excited - sadly you don‘t get to in the making and has been touched by German, Italian, years gone by”. Looking around, with a sigh the Russian talk to the man himself, but just watch as he ruffles some Russian and French architects alike. It goes without proclaims: “All has disappeared, the great is no more!”, papers, reads the History of the Baltic Flotilla and thinks saying that the interiors have to be seen to be believed. “Those golden times have forever passed by”. Pushkin‘s important thoughts at the window to a soundtrack of When Peter’s daughter and heir Elizabeth took over she poetry was no less beloved in the Soviet Era, hence the atmospheric music. Accompanied, of course, by his faithful hired Bartolemeo Francesco Rastrelli, an architect whose renaming of Tsarskoe Selo - the “Royal Village” - to Pushkin. advisor and beloved labrador Connie Paulgrave, who really fingerprints are all over St. Petersburg, including no less A much more anonymous but no less important role in the merits a feature to herself. It‘s all done with clever mirrors a building than the Hermitage. history of the parks and palaces south of the Northern apparently. It should be noted that this attraction doesn‘t Rastrelli, it seems, never met a surface he didn’t want Capital was played by the employees of Peterhof, Pavlovsk have the Presidential seal of approval, even though it claims to gild and the ballroom and grand staircase are the and Pushkin during the Second World War. As news came of to try and fulfil Putin‘s comment that future generation should epitome of this idea. Rich furnishings, handsome orna- the arrival of enemy forces on Soviet territory, the workers be given the chance to “evaluate the politicians” of the past. ments and artworks complete the grandiose royal resi- of the estates had the monumentous task on their hands Also on display is his first car, a clapped-out old Zaporozhets, dence, all lovingly restored following extensive damage of somehow protecting these historic sites. Some of the and other fun Presidential paraphernalia. incurred during the Second World War. Of particular note The People behind the Palaces important statues were buried and marked on a map so is the Chesme Hall. Originally used as a reception area, Our story starts with the man who once stood on a windswept they could be located again. At Pavlovsk, Noah‘s Ark-style, as it is adjacent to the throne room, Catherine the Great beach looking out at the Finnish Gulf and announced that one piece of each furniture set was saved and the rest left Opening Times and Tickets had the hall redone to showcase 12 massive canvases here he would build his capital: Peter the Great, founder of behind. They worked by candlelight, covered the floors with by German painter Jacob Philippe Hackaert. Each of the St. Petersburg. His shiny new city was to be a window onto sand, boarded up the windows, and just as the opposition Oranienbaum (+7) 812 450 52 87 www.oranien- canvases depict sea battles from the Russo-Turkish War Europe and a symbol of a new enlightened Russia, and he army approached the town’s outskirts, the last vehicles of baum.org. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Palaces of 1768-1774, especially the Chesme harbour battle. Leg- needed somewhere to watch over it all from. The Versailles- precious goods set off for soon-to-be-besieged Leningrad. open 10:30 - 18:00, closed Mon. Admission to park and end has it, Hackaert’s initial efforts proved inaccurately style palace at Peterhof was the perfect way to tell the world In their absence the stately homes and parks became shells palaces 70 - 140Rbl. tame, without enough blazing ships and flying timber. that Peter was a modern, European-style leader and could win of their former selves, but at least some of their hidden To help him out, Catherine had a frigate exploded in an wars and throw lavish parties with the best of them. treasures remained safe. Pavlovsk (+7) 812 452 21 55, www.pavlovskmu- Italian harbour while the artist sat ashore, presumably Oranienbaum, also known as Lomonosov, a palace further Though many of the palaces south of St. Petersburg are seum.ru. Q Palace open 10:00 - 18:00, closed first Mon blithely sketching the destruction. west along the coast from Peterhof, was perhaps most beloved now museums, one at at least has returned to serve of the month. Admission 200 - 450Rbl. Park open daily The jewel in Peterhof’s glittering crown has got to be the by Peter III, husband of Catherine the Great. Though he brought its original purpose - housing the country‘s rulers. The 10:00 - 18:00. Admission to park 80 - 150Rbl. monumental Grand Cascade made up of 64 fountains in a number of democratic reforms such as disbanding the Konstantinovsky Palace in Strelna (originally completed and more than 200 statues, bronze reliefs and other shiny repressive secret police, making killing peasants illegal and in 1807) is an official residence of President Vladimir Putin, Peterhof (+7) 812 450 52 87, www.peterhofmu- stuff. The design was conceived by Peter the Great himself. allowing aristocrats to travel abroad, he remained unpopular, who in 2001 had it rebuilt after it was largely destroyed seum.ru. Q Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Admission The centre piece is giant statue of Samson fighting a lion, so much so that after six months on the throne he was by German occupation, when it was used a naval base. It to park 50 - 450Rbl. Visiting of palaces: 10:30 - 12:00, symbolizing Russia’s victory over Sweden in the Great allegedly assassinated. Somehow, people seemed to like him was originally to be the site of Peter the Great‘s summer 14:30 - 16:15, closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Northern War (1700-1721). The twenty metre high jet of a bit better after that, and there were several popular revolts palace, but when the site was found to be unsuitable for the Admission to palaces 300 - 550Rbl. Find more informa- water that shoots out of the lion’s jaws is the highest in the led by people posing as Peter, most notably the Pugachev complex fountains he wanted, it was passed over in favour tion online. park. Around the cascade you can challenge your friends to rebellion. Of all the palaces in the area, Oranienbaum was of a location further along the Finnish Gulf which went on a round of spot the mythological heroes while you search the only one to escape capture in World War Two, at which Pushkin (+7) 812 466 66 69, www.tzar.ru. Q for Bacchus, Aphrodite, Hermes and Achilles and co. All time it was a school; some say that Peter‘s ghost saved the Catherine park open 07:00 - 23:00. Admission to park of the palace’s 173 fountains, jets, water arches, sprays children from bombardment. 50 - 100Rbl. Catherine palace open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon and tranquil pools are courtesy of the pressure created And so from the early glory days of Peter the First to the 10:00 - 21:00, closed Tue. Admission 100 - 320Rbl. Visit- by natural elevation and all of the water is from the natural last days of the Romanovs; after abdicating, Tsar Nicholas ing of the palace: 10:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:00 for guided springs lying just below the upper gardens. A tour of the II and his family spent their last days at the Alexander Palace groups, 12:00 - 16:00 for individual tourists. grotto, located just behind the grand cascade, includes an - chopping and collecting firewood, clearing away snow and explanation of the remarkable technology and also gives creating a kitchen garden, watched over by revolutionary Strelna (+7) 812 438 53 60, www.konstantinpal- a bit of insight as to Peter’s sense of humor – reaching for soldiers. The palace that had once been their playground was ace.ru. Q You can book tickets and guided tours online the bowl of fruit at the central table will result in a surprise now their prison. The end of an era for these palaces and or by phone. Tickets from 170Rbl. Palace open 10:00 soaking. Oh, that Peter. for Russia came on August 1st, 1917, when the Bolsheviks - 17:00, closed Wed. came to take them away, never to return.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 18 FeatureS FeatureS 19

Happily Ever After? hotel boasts a spa with large swimming pool, conference Getting There Strangely enough, we owe much about the estates‘ current rooms and two restaurants. The Bavarian one comes highly condition to the Soviets, who uncharacteristically looked recommended, also because of the huge windows that look Strelna – Peterhof – Oranienbaum kindly on this part of Tsarist history, starting to rebuild them out over the nearby pond. New Peterhof is part of an interna- Peterhof is located about 30km west of St. Petersburg straight after the war. Aleksei Shchusev, the architect of the tional hotel-chain and service is friendly and welcoming. The on the Finnish gulf. Oranienbaum is located 40km west Lenin Mausoleum, said: „If we do not do this, we who know and main entrance hall might look a bit odd at first, but serves as of St. Petersburg and Strelna is located six kilometres remember these palaces in all their glory as they were, then a central alley inside the hotel. It has won two architectural east of Peterhof (about halfway between St. Petersburg the next generation will never be able to reconstruct them.“ It prices as well as a Golden Diploma for a eco-friendly hotel. proper and Peterhof). All the 3 towns are located along was quite a hunt to track down where the palaces‘ furniture Q Room prices start at 3,000Rbl. the Peterhof highway. and other items had got to - some had got as far as Latvia By bus/marshrutka: and even beyond. Strolling around any of the palaces or parks From Avtovo metro station take marshrutka (commercial you can appreciate what a momentous task the restoration Restaurants and cafes bus) 224, 300, 424 or 424a. You can also take public of these historic sites was, especially without the unlimited Bavarian Restaurant New Peterhof Hotel, St. Pe- buses 200, 210. From Baltisky train station (Baltiskaya workforce and bottomless wallets of the Tsars. terburgsky pr. 34, tel. (+7) 812 319 10 10, www. metro station): marshrutka 404. From Pr. Veteranov But it‘s still an ongoing project; to raise funds to recreate new-peterhof.com. Heads up: this isn‘t, apart from a few metro station: marshrutka 343, 639b. From Leninsky the stupendous opulence of Catherine Palace in Pushkin, German beers and a couple of sausages, a Bavarian restau- pr. metro station: marshrutka 103(K224). Don’t forget for example, its grandest rooms have been leased out to rant. In actual fact it‘s a blend of European and Russian with to warn the driver (or passengers) that you want to exit stars like Elton John for a one-off concert. The estates are some original additions. A far cry from what you might have next to the fountains (ask for Fontany or Dvorets (foun- favourites with both the local public and tourists, picnics expected from the name, it‘s got a large range of health- tains or palace)). with friends, holiday photo opportunities or family days out. oriented options on its ‚fitness menu‘ and lists the calorie For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum Thanks to the careful restoration they‘ve undergone, they are content of each dish on the menu so you know exactly what get off at the Oranienbaum station. a window onto a vanished world of extremes and one which you‘re letting yourself in for. Neatly presented dishes range By train: ended abruptly with the Revolution. Fittingly, they are now from fresh vegetabley starters to rich mains and a chocolate Take a train from Baltisky train station to Novy Peterhof. open to be enjoyed not by a select, wealthy few, but by all. brownie for pudding. The simple dark wood decor underlines the grounds of the Constantine Palace and serves a wide These trains leave in the directions of Kalishe, Oranien- the large bright windows which look out onto the nearby ponds range of well-prepared and presented dishes. Don‘t worry, baum or Krasnoflotsk. The ride takes approximately 45 and attractive St Peter and St Paul Cathedral. QOpen 12:00 the prices are not as high as you might expect and the quality minutes. Once in Novy Peterhof, take buses 349, 350, - 23:00. €€. PTALW of the food is of great value. On the upper floors is a quaint 351, 352, 355, 356, warn the driver that you want to exit little museum dedicated to the G8 Summit that took place next to the fountains. Lindström’s dacha Strelna, ul. Glinki 7А, tel. (+7) 812 here in 2003 and also showcases personal gifts to Vladimir For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum 438 58 31, www.dachalindstrema.ru. Dining in style in a Putin. Unfortunately, it is closed until after the G20 meetings get off at the Oranienbaum station. historical setting is what the restored Dacha Lindström is in September of this year. The word is that world leaders will By hydrofoil: Peterhof Express all about. It was here that in 2003 former President George again wine and dine here and therefore the museum will get The Meteor speedboat leaves from Admiralteiskaya nab. W. Bush and his wife met for informal dinners with President a bit of a facelift. It‘s a good pit stop when visiting the nearby 2 (Pier with Lions) near Dvortsovy (Palace) Bridge. Seating Putin and his First Lady. The restaurant is located just off palace. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. €€. PTALW is airline style, with leather upholstery and more than ample legroom. Between cabins, there is a partially open viewing area that is as picturesque as it is windy. Toilets available on board. See more: www.peterhof-express.ru. The hydrofoil comes directly to the Lower park of Peterhof where the fountains are situated. Pushkin – Pavlovsk Pushkin and Pavlovsk are located about 20km south of St. Petersburg. By bus/marshrutka: From Moskovskaya metro station: for Pushkin take Hotels marshrutka 286, 287, 342, 347, 382 or take public bus Baltic Star Strelna, Beryozovaya al. 3, tel. (+7) 812 187; for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 299. 438 57 00, www.balticstar-hotel.ru. This grand hotel From Kupchino metro station: for Pushkin take bus 186, complex, located on the picturesque Gulf of Finland, offers for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 286. extensive services and fine hospitality. Their facilities for By train: guests on business are no less complete, with fully-equipped For Pushkin take a train from Vitebsky train station (Push- conference rooms and a business centre offering secretarial kinskaya metro station) to Detskoe Selo. From there you and translation services. There are also 20 villas, each with can walk to Catherine’s Palace (20min) or take bus 371, coastal views, choice enough for the Presidents and their 382 or marshrutka 371, 377, 382. spouses to stay during the G8 summit. Rooms ranging from For Pavlovsk take a train from Vitebsky train station to standard to deluxe are inviting with quality furnishings in Pavlovsk. From there you can take bus 370, 383, 493 or red or blue with buff. The Presidential Suite is exactly that; marshrutka 513, 299, 286. You can also take a train from fit for a President to lay his or her head. Q Room prices Kupchino metro/train station. start at 3,800Rbl. Extra bed 1,100Rbl. Breakfast 640Rbl. PTHAUFLGKDCW

New Peterhof Hotel St. Peterburgsky pr. 34, tel. (+7) 812 319 10 10, www.new-peterhof.com/en. Without a doubt one of the most modern hotels in Peterhof, with all amenities one could wish for. At a relative short distance from St. Petersburg it is an ideal place to visit the famous palace and park and relax in the suburban atmosphere in the small town. Rooms are light and spacy with large windows some of which look straight out at the impressive Peter & Paul Cathedral, which is located right next to the hotel. The

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 20 FeatureS hotels 21

Yelagin Island We‘ve selected a range of accommodation options from Islands From Krestovsky Island, take the bridge north across the some of the top end wallet-busters down to the frugal and As the great Neva spreads out into a delta, it creates a Srednyaya Nevka and you’ll find yourself in the parkland friendly options. Prices include VAT (18%) and breakfast series of islands, which the city’s founder Peter I wanted to of Yelagin Island. The island has gone through many name unless otherwise indicated. All prices listed are accord- put at the heart of the city. Whilst Vasilevsky Island was to changes over the years and a lot of different owners, as ing to the information received by us from hotels for be the centre, Peter divided up the other islands of the Gulf members of the nobility fell in and out of favour with the Tsars. the period June - July 2013. In Your Pocket assumes no amongst his friends and allies, where they went on to built Each of its wealthy owners has of course left their mark responsibility for discrepancies and changes in pricing. their dachas, summer palaces and seaside gardens. Today, but the name that eventually stuck on the island is that of two of the smaller islands, Krestovsky Island and Yelagin one of its owners, Ivan Perfilievich Yelagin. His close links Island, have remained as public parkland and gardens, and with Catherine the Great got him the job as director of court 5 Stars are favourite spots with the locals for summer picnics and theatres, which he controlled with an iron fist. Eventually Angleterre Hotel D-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiral- invigorating winter strolls, patches of secluded calm in the however his connections with freemasonry, alchemy and all teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel. centre of the city. sorts of shady characters soured their friendship. com. This luxury hotel in the heart of the city caters to its Yelagin’s Palace remains the most important structure on high-end business clients with multiple conference rooms, a the island; its design brought fame to its architect, Carl Rossi, unique amphitheatre style presentation hall that also periodi- who went on to create such landmarks as the General Staff cally hosts film festivals and a fitness centre complete with Building on Palace Square and without whom the face of St a Finnish sauna and swimming pool. Rooms are cosy, comfy Petersburg would be very different today. It was once famed and contemporary in style with simple red accents and parquet for its dazzling interiors, but the siege of Leningrad saw all flooring. Views of St. Isaac’s are unparalleled from their deluxe of that burn to the ground. In 1950 it was rebuilt, and after a suites or the posh corner Caviar Bar. The Italian head chef Grand Hotel Europe D-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, short stint as a leisure centre with billiard rooms and a dance has made Borsalino a destination for years with their expertly MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandho- hall in the former royal chapel, it has now been restored and executed Italian dishes and pastries plus a business lunch teleurope.com. Occupying the full length of Mikhailovskaya houses a museum of decorative and applied arts. buffet that changes daily. Q193 rooms (Room prices start Street, this palatial historical hotel has it all, from the original During the Soviet era it was best known as the site of the at 7,000Rbl). PTHAFLGKDCW hhhhh art-deco detailing to the exquisite, enormous bathrooms Central Park of Culture and Leisure named in honour of in the downstairs bar to the 60cm mattresses and plush Sergey Kirov. Kirov, a Soviet big name, was killed by another Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg E-3, Nevsky pr. 57, divine room fittings. Suites themed around personages, member of the Party for reasons which remain unknown; the MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www. places and institutions dear to the heart of St. Petersburg are murder then sparked off the Great Purge in which thousands corinthia.com. Following a 90-million-euro refurbishment gorgeously designed down to the last detail. There are also died. That aside, it was and still is one of the most popular the Corinthia has now become the largest five-star confer- five top-notch restaurants including the popular Caviar Bar or parks in town. Its acres are packed with things to see and ence and business hotel in the city. From the very entrance, authentic Chinese at Chopsticks. For fine dining, L’Europe with places to eat and drink. Efforts have been made to de-Soviet compromising of a huge elegant lobby down to the stylishly its stained glass art deco interior simply cannot be beat for Krestovsky Island it and return it to its original more laid-back landscaping. modern rooms and posh dining facilites, the impression is style or history. The Mezzanine Cafe, with its atrium above, Originally a gift from Peter the Great to his close friend Rent rollerskates or a boat in summer to paddle around that this place has had a most thorough polish - the shine oozes elegance and bustles with livewire atmosphere. Q276 Prince Alezander Menshikov, Krestovsky Island is once a pond; or for the less actively inclined, the Maslyany Lug on those chandeliers is positively blinding! Happily the staff rooms (Room prices start at 11,200Rbl). VAT and Breakfast again becoming a sought-after destination and housing here - ‘Butter Meadow’ - is ideal for picnicking. Paths meander are just as welcoming as the rooms and the conference (2,000Rbl) are not included. PTHA6UFLG� fetches the highest prices per square metre out of any area between the different pavilions, many made with a helping organisation is top class. Q388 rooms (Room prices start KDW hhhhh of the city. Despite this, its rambling park is still a popular hand from famous architects. From the western tip of the at 12,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,380Rbl. Breakfast (1,330Rbl) favourite, especially amongst families with kids, though its island the view opens out onto the Finnish Gulf, from blue- not included. PTHAUFLGKDW hhhhh Hotel Astoria C-2, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteis- appearance is distinctly Soviet. green to stormy grey to frozen solid white ice. kaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria. Over the years the island saw its fair share of the tumultuous Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg С-3, Nab. reky com. The elegant lobby features a sweeping spiral staircase, lives of the nobles. Even in the early 20th century it was the Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 99 00, the Rotonda Lounge which offers afternoon tea and caviar, site of a deadly duel between Prince Nicholas Yussupov www.dominarussia.com. This in the first venture into Russia the Lichfield Bar where you can try original cocktails and and Count Arvid Manteuffel, with whose wife Nicholas had from the Italian Domina Hotel brand. In a boutique hotel style the newly opened restaurant Astoria Café. Throughout the been having a too-obvious affair. Manteuffel had to defend the entrance is subtle yet impressive with a colourful and hotel is steeped in history and great care has been taken to his honour and challenged Yussupov, who on both turns bright lobby lit by a huge skylight and impressive contemporary preserve the original marblework, crystal chandeliers and art deliberately shot into the air, but Manteuffel really meant it chandelier. Tucked away discreetly to the side is the canal-view nouveau accents. The rooms have been given contemporary and shot the young Prince dead. cocktail bar Nove decorated in larger-than-life style with neon upgrades such as all natural linens and rain showers. The Krestovsky Island has a fine history of sport and was one of bright colours and art installations. Up in the rooms there’s presidential suites feature art, furniture and lighting from the the first places in Russia where upmarket sports like lawn ample space to work, rest and play with large desks, rain original collection. Other amenities include conference spaces tennis, sailing, rowing and polo were played. In 1994 it hosted showers and gigantic beds. The colour scheme here too is in the historical Winter Garden and Ballroom, a wide choice of the Goodwill Games, first large international sporting event Open-air Clubs bright and adventurous without a spot of beige in sight, which treatments at Decleor SPA and a branch of the Paris-based since the end of the Soviet Union. Now it’s home to one of is all part of Domina’s aim to make guests feel that this is not Carita salon. Q188 rooms (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). Russia’s top football clubs, Zenit, who will soon be getting a Open Bar B-1, Petrovskaya kosa 9 (Petrovsky os- just a hotel, it’s an experience. Q109 rooms (Room price start PHAFGKDwW hhhhh shiny new stadium to match their growing success, and locals trov), MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 986 43 03, at 10,500Rbl). Extra bed 2,100Rbl. Breakfast (1,200Rbl) not enjoy the park’s wealth of sporting facilities. www.open-bar.ru. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. included. PTHA6ULGKDwW hhhhh Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 D-2, Nab. reky Moiky ‘Primorsky Victory Park at the western end of Krestovsky Royal Beach B-1, Yuzhnaya doroga 14, MKre- 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www. Island was built by local residents as a memorial to casualties stovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 916 60 06, www. kempinski.com/stpetersburg. The Kempinski Hotel Moika of the Second World War and Leningrad Blockade. Here royalbeach.ru. Q Open 12:00 until last guest. Symbol Key 22 is located in a charming and historical area, in the very you can rent bikes and skates, or, if feeling less energetic, Russkaya Rybalka B-1, Yuzhnaya doroga 11, heart of St. Petersburg, on the Moika River, opposite the MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 323 98 13, www. you can fill your stomach with shashlik and beer at any of P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted renowned Hermitage Museum and Palace Square. The Hotel the tents or terraces scattered about the park or along the russian-fishing.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri - Sat until is just two minutes walk from the Nevsky Prospect and close riverbanks. The city’s largest funfair Divo Ostrov (‘Miracle last guest. T Child friendly H Conference facilities to all major sights and shopping. The unique location of the Island’) is situated not far from Krestovsky Ostrov metro. This SYDNEY Beach Club B-1, Petrovskaya kosa 9 K Restaurant U Facilities for the disabled panoramic Bellevue Brasserie on the ninth floor of the hotel is the place for Disneyland fantasy, Russian style. They have (Petrovsky ostrov), MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) makes it one of the most awe-inspiring places in the whole family attractions as well as brand new extreme rides which 812 918 91 86, www.sydney.spb.ru. Q Open 12:00 C Swimming pool L Guarded parking old St Petersburg. The Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 offers 197 all have scary names like ‘the Catapult’ (something akin to - 02:00, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 06:00. F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms rooms and suites and features the Beau Rivage restaurant; to pair bungee swinging) and the 25m high Winged Swing. Vozdukh B-1, Yuzhnaya doroga 6, MKrestovsky Wine Cellar; Tea Room and the Von Witte bar with its log Though it’s won awards in Russia, the extreme rides have at ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 962 22 29, www.vozduhpromo. D Sauna M Nearest metro station fireplace. Q197 rooms (Room prices start at 11,475Rbl). times found themselves in the news for being dangerous, so ru. Q Open 23:00 - 06:00. 6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi connection Extra bed 3,150Rbl. Breakfast (1,575Rbl) not included. we recommend you stick to the bumper cars and popcorn. PTHA6FLGKDW hhhhh

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 22 hotels hotels 23

Radisson Royal Hotel E-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladi- Ask the Concierge mirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/ 4 Stars hotel-stpetersburg. In this central 1730s building the well- Ambassador D-3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 5-7, MSen- My name is Olga Molchanova. trained staff take a professional but personal approach and naya pl., tel. (+7) 812 331 88 44, www.ambassador- I graduated from the State the hotel offers a 100% satisfaction guarantee. The suites hotel.ru. This sophisticated hotel is in a beautiful and University in Kishinev, Depart- have stylish glass panelling, comfortable arm chairs and tall ancient district of the city, near to the bustling old Haymarket ment of Foreign Languages. arched windows. There’s the lovely renovated Barbazan Res- (Sennaya pl). Rooms are spacious with tall windows, bright After university I spent two taurant serving international cuisine and the gorgeous corner red carpets and large flat screen TVs. Sparkling chande- years teaching French in one of lobby bar with it’s Nevsky view. Their fitness centre includes liers, a trendy bar and the classic fine-dining Ambassador St. Petersburg Lyceums. After a Canadian wood sauna and jacuzzi. There are ample confer- restaurant all greet you in the lobby. In fact the hotel has short break I became interested ence and boardroom facilities. Q164 rooms (Room prices numerous facilities including a tour agency and a 16m pool in hospitality and decided to try start at 6,900Rbl). Extra bed 1,770Rbl. Breakfast (1,300Rbl) and juice bar! Q255 rooms (Room prices start at 7,300Rbl). it out for myself. As a result I`ve not included. PTHAUFGKDW hhhhh Breakfast (750Rbl) not included. PHAUFLGK� been working as a concierge for DCW hhhh the last 6 years. At the moment I am a chief concierge of Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge C-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, Astoria and Angleterre hotel. MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www. Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West sokoshotels.com. The gorgeous Palace Bridge Hotel is Pushkin Hotel C-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance What is considered to be a summer-secret of St. a cross between a slick city warehouse conversion and via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 Petersburg which would be interesting to visit? palatial hotel. Exposed brickwork surrounds the spacious 610 50 00, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. This White nights and the famous festival in Mariinsky theatre skylight lobby with two levels and marble grey metal walk- business-focused hotel has a whole floor of conference space attract visitors from around the world. However the ways reaching from the lobby to the Sevilla restaurant in the and excellent facilities for business travellers. The 273 rooms, charm of White Nights becomes even more mysterious brick tower. The downstairs lobby holds the entrance to the including five suites and one wedding suite, are comfortable when you experience it while doing a boat ride along the pride of the hotel, their Spa and Wellness world. Calming and and well-equipped. Downstairs there is a large lobby (which canals and rivers of the city. To my mind, all of these comfortable with thick mattresses and soft furnishings, the has free WiFi), a bar and two restaurants; one of them, the landmarks are obvious, but there are lots of secrets in rooms are crisp and bright with chaise-lounges, flat screen reasonably priced Bierstube, even brews four sorts of beer. them that people can learn about. tvs and glass bathrooms doors. Q324 rooms (Room prices There’s also a small gym on the third floor. Ten minutes walk Where can one find a beautiful spot in the city not start at 5,900Rbl). PTHA6UFLGKDCwW from the Mariinsky Theatre, the hotel enjoys a quiet location crowded with tourists? hhhhh on Kan. Griboedova (shuttle buses to Sennaya pl.). Q273 Tourists tend to visit museums and palaces but there rooms (Room prices start at 3,800Rbl). VAT and breakfast are lots of parks which are not so crowded. There is one Taleon Imperial Hotel D-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiral- (850 Rbl) are not included. PTHAUFLGKW which has attracted my attention. It is located in Oranien- teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperial- hhhh baum. It is fascinating with its wonderful green paths and hotel.com. Possibly the best-looking hotel in St Petersburg, ponds, majestic trees and a wonderful Chinese Palace the Taleon Imperial also enjoys a stunning location on the Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky which is called Steklyarusny Study Room. corner of Nevsky pr. and Moika. No expense has been spared C-2, VO, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. in the restoration of this 18th-century mansion, and the (+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg. Hotel Astoria celebrates its 100 year anniversary results are often jaw-dropping. Luxury and refinement are ru. Situated on the quiet banks of the Malaya Neva this 214 this year? the watchwords here: the spacious rooms are impeccably room hotel is aimed firmly at the business traveller. With Hotel Astoria had its official 100th birthday on the 23rd decorated and equipped, and the Emperor and Empress eight conference rooms, including the massive atrium as- of December 2012. For the main celebration we have suites have to be seen to be believed. On the top floor, there’s sembly room, and enormous desks in every room even the chosen the season of wonderful White nights. The 100th a spa with summer terrace and wonderful views over the city. most workaholic guest is well-catered for. The rooms and Anniversary Gala Event will take place on the 18th June in In addition to Griboedov, the hotel’s Taleon restaurant does a beds themselves are also generously sized and decorated Astoria. We are expecting about 400 guests from Moscow, reasonably priced Sunday brunch while the Victoria restaurant in a simple yet warm muted gold and purple scheme. There’s St Petersburg, Europe and the USA. There will be repre- offers a business lunch. Q89 rooms (Room prices start at a light and airy Russian/French restaurant with views to sentatives of media and business elite, people of art and 13,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,800Rbl. Breakfast (1,750Rbl) not the river, as well as a slinkier lobby bar for later on. Q214 famous guests of Astoria. Sir Rocco Forte will personally included. PTHAUFLGBKDCW hhhhh rooms (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl). Breakfast (985Rbl) host the event, which will be a night to remember. not included in Deluxe/Studio rates. PTHAUFL� W St. Petersburg D-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiral- GKW hhhh What are the biggest challenges for you as a con- teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 6161, www.wstpetersburg. cierge during the summer season? com. Impressive as the grey granite facade is, guests are in Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport Startovaya In the summer this city is full of tourists. For a concierge for a sumptuous surprise when they enter into a thoroughly ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 who is supposed to be ready for anything it is a challenge contemporary interior designed down to the last detail. Not 00, www.cpairport.ru. Situated next to the international to arrange quick and smooth entrance into the most merely a lobby, their Living Room encourages mingling around terminal of Pulkovo airport, this is the city’s first airport hotel. popular museums and palaces (like Hermitage, Peterhof, the fireplace to the sounds of the hippest music. Sophisti- A modern design on the building’s facade includes quirky Tsarskoye Selo) where the number of visitors is limited cated dining in miX restaurant and signature cocktails at the windows in the guest rooms, designed for watching planes by museum authorities. Also, some tourists might not rooftop bar are destinations unto themselves with views of take off, a huge bright lobby and dining areas plus large and be ready for our unpredictable weather, so making jokes St. Isaac’s Cathedral and the Neva. Bliss Spa pampers with flexible conference room space. There’s a spa and fitness about it and convincing people to take an umbrella even a twist, while the Sweat fitness centre and Wet pool area area with a Russian banya for post-flight relaxation and the though it is sunny outside, sometimes surprises guests are gleaming temples for body worship. Meeting spaces hotel runs a free shuttle bus service between the hotel but makes our days brighter and different. contain state-of-the-art technology along with unique sensory and the city centre and between the two airport terminals. devices to keep ideas flowing. Each room wows with their Q294 rooms (Room prices start at 3,500Rbl). Extra bed What should a tourist do to experience the “real” signature W bed, designer decor and ultra-plush amenities. 1,770Rbl. VAT and breakfast (850Rbl) are not included. Russia? Q137 rooms (Room prices start at 9,500Rbl). Breakfast PTHAUFLGBKDW hhhh I think that people who visit St. Petersburg have already (1,500Rbl) not included., incl. depending on a room type. a chance to explore lots of palaces and wonderful at- PTHA6UFGKDCwW hhhhh tractions but I there are also lots of opportunities to experience ancient Russia, like in a Russian Banya. Birch For hundreds more reviews of hotels across Russia and Eastern Europe brooms in a banya and herbal tea from the “samovar” are U menya zabranirovan nomer - very authentic here. Another option is to arrange short check out our website trips to old ancient towns like Veliky Novgorod and Pskov. I have a reservation www.inyourpocket.com

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 24 hotels Restaurants 25

Novotel St. Petersburg Centre E-3, Ul. Mayakovsk- Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden D-4, Bataisky per. 3a, ogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70, Symbol Key www.accorhotels.com/5679. Centrally located just off www.sokoshotels.fi. For the seasoned business traveler Nevsky pr, Novotel belongs to the Accor chain of hotels and looking for a hotel that does things right, the Olympia Garden P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted offers a breath of fresh air in both style and manner to the St. is a breath of fresh air. It has everything you could want. E Live music S Take away Petersburg hotel market. The exterior is a modern rendition of Thick curtains, flat-screen tvs and sleek Finnish furniture T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled the tower of Pisa and the Colosseum and the interior is mod- complete the small but functional rooms. The mattresses G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking ern and bright. There is a stylish cafe and restaurant adjacent were even designed using NASA technology. The size differ- to the lobby. The rooms are modern, and comfortable. The ence between standard and superior rooms is negligible, so B Outside seating W Wi-Fi connection hotel is equipped with a number of state-of-the-art confer- if traveling alone the standard will suffice. There are multiple V Home delivery M Nearest metro station ence rooms and a fitness centre. Q233 rooms (Room prices conference rooms, holding up to 350 people, and free wifi start at 3,900Rbl). Extra bed 800Rbl. Breakfast (850Rbl.) and laptop rentals. Q348 rooms (Room prices start at not included. PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhh 4,300Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6UFL� St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and fun GBKDW hhhh restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian to Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky St. Petersburg E-3, nouvelle cuisine. To be sure of getting a table, make sure Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky C-3, 8-ya Liniya 11-13, to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. Facing onto MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 90, www. into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make Nevsky and within a stone’s throw of Moskovsky railway sta- sokoshotels.com. The third Sokos hotel in St. Petersburg early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tip for tion, you couldn’t dream of a more practical location than this brings yet more Finnish style and sophistication to the city. good service only - 10% is considered fair. Also remember to well-designed hotel. Despite its central location the noise of The rooms are comfortable with stylish contemporary check your bill to see if they already included service. Don’t the city is inaudible and rooms are all brightly and comfortably interiors and the usual mod-cons. In the hotel you’ll find hesitate to politely ask for all of your change back, if the up to the Park Inn standard. The hub of the hotel is the airy the wonderful 1930s-inspired restaurant Repin Lounge establishment automatically pockets whatever amount you Paulaner restaurant, which bustles at all times of day and and an Irish-pub style bar. Situated on the older side of hand them for the bill. is smartly spread over two levels with views to Nevsky and Vasilievsky Island, it’s good for those interested in sight- Our price guide is based on the average price of plenty of light coming through the delightful atrium. A great seeing. Q255 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). a main course: choice for those here to enjoy the city’s tourist delights. Q269 Extra bed 1,000Rbl.PTHA6UFLGBKDW € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl rooms (Room prices start at 4,600Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. hhhh €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus PTHAUFLGKW hhhh

Radisson Sonya Hotel E-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MCherny- 3 Stars Russian and Ukrainian shevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 00, www.radisson.ru/ Azimut Hotel Saint-Petersburg C-4, Lermontovsky Koleso D-3, Voznesensky pr. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. sonyahotel-stpetersburg. The Radisson Sonya hotel looks pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 40, (+7) 812 315 21 25. Step down into the warm and cosy like something from another planet compared to some of the www.azimuthotels.ru. This hotel, previously known as the cave that is Koleso and get settled in for an evening of old other more standard upmarket business class hotels in the city. Sovetskaya, is slowly but surely transforming itself in to a Slavic comfort. Iron candelabras give the room a medieval It positively screams fashion and thoughtfulness. Not one detail European style budget hotel, complete with good restaurant glow, while the crisp creamy tablecloths lend things a roman- is out of place, from the state-of-the-art bathrooms to the groovy and conference facilities. More than 1000 rooms are scat- tic touch. The menu is truly Slavic and will satisfy anyone lighting and the wild Swedish designer wallpaper. Themed around tered over 18 floors - with over half them having received a looking for a good fill of wholesome Russian food. Meat is Dostoevsky’s novel Crime and Punishment, subtle references modern, functional, terracotta-coloured renovation. This is king and there is a broad choice of succulent meaty cuts to the book are everywhere from the carpet and furniture to the the tallest building in the historical part of the city and the as well as delicacies such as tongue and liver to be found Russian restaurant. The huge glass covered courtyard with glass view from the evening bar on the 18th floor is quite simply in the extensive menu. The waitstaff are professional and fronted kitchen is stunning. Q173 rooms (Room prices start at stunning. Q1026 rooms (Room prices start at 2,400Rbl). know the menu well and will be happy to guide you through 4,500Rbl). Extra bed 2,200Rbl. Breakfast (920Rbl) not included. PHAFLGKW hhh some of the region‘s more unusual dishes. Q Open 12:00 PTHA6UFGKDW hhhh - 24:00. €€. PTAS IBIS St. Petersburg Centre E-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01 00, www.ibishotel. Levin D-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 21, MAdmiralteiskaya, Les Clefs’ d’Or com/6157. Smart and clean with the appearance of an tel. (+7) 812 612 19 66, www.levins.me. Conveniently upmarket hotel, Ibis is marketed for those in search of located not far from Nevsky on Malaya Morskaya, Levin is Back in the bad old days, a Russian reasonably priced accommodation, leisure travellers and a small restaurant with a homey atmosphere. Their menu concierge would probably be consid- business people. With a central location, brand spanking new has a selection of moderately-priced homemade Russian ered simply as glorified security guard, decor, international standard service levels and a restaurant dishes and even the pickiest of eaters will be able to find checking the comings and goings of downstairs, this is a great option at very reasonable rates. something familiar and satisfying. They are very accom- guests and offering little in terms of Q221 rooms (Room prices start at 2,900Rbl). Extra bed dating to foreign guests, and have a bilingual menu and local knowledge and professional ex- 1,800Rbl only for suites. Breakfast (480 Rbl) not included. free wifi. The service is among the fastest you‘ll find in pertise. Thankfully those days have long PHAULGKW hhh St. Petersburg - you‘re not going to waste fifteen minutes since passed and nowadays the role of concierge is one waiting for someone to bring you a menu. It‘s not usually taken as seriously in Russia as in any other western country. very busy or loud, so it‘s a good place to relax and have a In fact numerous St. Petersburg hotels now have concierges Hostels nice meal in a homey setting. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. who are members of the prestigious professional associa- Cubahostel C-2, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, 3rd floor, PTAGSW tion Les Clefs’ d’Or which was founded in France in 1929. MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 921 71 15, www.cuba- Look out for members of staff wearing the distinctive golden hostel.ru. With an almost unbeatable location just behind NEP D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. keys badge on their lapel in places such as Taleon, Grand Kazan Cathedral, Cubahostel is an ideal budget option. The (+7) 812 571 75 91, www.neprestoran.ru. NEP is a de- Hotel Europe, Astoria, Angleterre and Corinthia. These highly fourteen rooms each sleep from two to ten people. Upstairs lightful cabaret den which pays glorious homage to the sultry qualified concierges are there to make your stay as special there’s a recently upgraded communal kitchen, though swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy and warm, softly lit and comfortable as possible and you can expect them to guests also get special offers including a welcome drink with candles so you can settle back, order your meal and be be a fountain of knowledge about everything - they can at Atelierbar a few minutes’ walk away. The staff organise enthralled by the musicians with their charming, personality book tickets and make reservations for you, recommend events including regular banya trips, and can also hook packed star singer. They offer an array of delicious fish and restaurants, organise unique excursions or simply help guests up with walking and cycling tours. Enter to the right meat dishes, all exquisitely presented and served. If you‘re you find a good tailor. St. Petersburg In Your Pocket is very of the old-fashioned red British phone box, press 41 at the sitting close to the performers, it is likely you‘ll find yourself happy to be partners with Les Clefs’ d’Or. downstairs intercom. Linen included. Q15 rooms (Room part of the night‘s entertainment. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, prices start at 490Rbl). PNGW Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PAEBSW

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 26 Restaurants Restaurants 27

to make it a great success. Food-wise, he got everything right, although we were a bit amused by the selection of Russian dishes on the menu as well; we haven‘t yet given those a try, but as for Indian food, Cardamom is a welcome addition to the city. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTASW

Chin Chin Cafe C-2, Mytninskaya nab. 3, MSport- ivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 10 42, www.chin-chin-cafe. ru. The toast "chin-chin" simply means cheers, but actually it is the Chinese term of salutation. Chin Chin Café is St. Pe- tersburg’s premier destination for haute Asian cuisine. The menu features ingredients from around the world, prepared with Asian techniques and spices. They prepare a great Tom Yum, nice vegetable dishes and of course a famous Peking Duck. If you are a fan of seafood they also have a big selection of lovely fish dishes. The restaurant features a full bar with a wide selection of wines, liquor, beer (they also offer Singha Thai beer!) and cocktails of course. Like the cuisine, the restaurant exhibits a homely yet sophisticated atmosphere where guests can enjoy their meals in an unhurried setting and with live music playing at night.Q €€€. PTAESW

Dve Palochki American Edition E-3, Nevsky pr. 96, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 355 02 22, www. dvepalochki.ru. Dve Palochki American Edition is not much different than Dve Palochki regular edition. It‘s the same basic menu, same service and same prices with a tiny bit of an American twist. Half of the restaurant is designed to look like an old fashioned 1950‘s American diner with vinyl booths and green and white checkered tables. The waiters wear a stereotypical American uniform of blue jeans and red polo shirts. The American section of the menu includes burgers, donuts and cupcakes, and like in true American diner fashion, free refills of coffee! QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. €. PAVSW

Tandoor D-3, Admiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, Russkaya Ryumochnaya No.1 C-3, Konnogvardeisky tel. (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. Situated your attention here. The group of ambitious young people who Kvass bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 64 20, mere steps from St. Isaac‘s cathedral, Tandoor is about as created this café first travelled around Asia in order to collect Mmmm, what could be nicer than a fermented rye bread www.vodkaroom.ru. Typically a ryumochnaya is a stand-up, far away from bland Russian food as you can get. For 15 years the best recipes. And they definitely succeeded – the café’s drink on a hot day? spit-and-sawdust kind of a place where working men wash now they‘ve been serving up real, authentic Indian fare and menu offers a good variety of Chinese, Vietnamese and Thai Whether it sounds appealing or not kvass, a traditional down cheap vodka with salty snacks. This sophisticated fin- have won numerous ‘best restaurant‘ prizes for their efforts meals combining excellent seafood, super fresh vegetables Russian soft drink, is the taste of Russian summer. Once de-siècle inspired place is as far away from that kind of place too. They have all the usual favourites so you can try a couple and delicious sauces. Try their tempting main courses or the hot months arrive you’ll notice big yellow barrels full as you can imagine. This is Russian food fit for tsars, complete and share amongst your buddies, whilst mopping up every last salads with mouth-watering toppings. We’re sure you won’t of this traditional soft drink parked on street corners with black caviar and reindeer meat. The historic dishes are dollop of sauce with the thick naan bread. With two rooms, regret it!QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €. PTAVGSW throughout the city. rich and well made, making this a very classy introduction to this place is ideal for a large group, much like when you see Somewhat akin to a half-flat non-alcoholic ale it is Russian cuisine. They also have possibly the biggest vodka the city‘s Indian community trooping in for their banquets. Beer Restaurants an acquired taste, but most Russians seem to love list we‘ve ever seen, as well as a vodka museum! QOpen QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTALEGSW it. Marketed as a patriotic alternative to cola this 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAULESW Bierstube C-4, Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg traditionally homemade drink is now available in su- Tandoori Nights D-3, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteis- Center West Pushkin Hotel, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (en- permarkets under brand names such as Klassik and Tsar D-3, Ul. Sadovaya 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) kaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 87 72, www.tandoorinightsspb. trance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) Nikola. Kvass can also sometimes find its way into 812 640 19 00, www.tsar-project.ru. Tsar, as its name com. There are only a few Indian restaurants in the whole 812 610 50 00, www.bier-stube.ru. With their own brewery your food as in the cold summer soup okroshka made suggests, sets out to make its guests feel like real Russian city and this one offers more than just curry - for Indian style the Marriott‘s Bierstube restaurant is a good place to start if you with raw vegetables, ham, boiled eggs topped off with royalty. Drinks are served in fine crystal glasses, old portraits fine-dining, this is a great place to go. The menu is original are looking for some homebrewed hoppy stuff. Choose from a some cold kvass. of noblemen cover the walls and even the toilets are encased and mouth-watering, especially the clay-oven Tandoori- seat in the glass covered courtyard balcony or tuck yourselves inside giant leather-lined thrones. The Russian cuisine on specialities. When cooked here, the meat acquires a delicious in inside the wood and stucco countryside house themed centre offer is first rate - no doubt Nicholas II himself would have flavour and specific tenderness. The soft naan breads are of the restaurant. Either way be sure to load up on beer snacks loved the Pozharskaya cutlet a la Pushkin. The staff, food also highly recommended - especially the peshwari naan. like calmari and fried cheese sticks before the main events, and atmosphere here is a real lesson in imperial elegance. From now on you can also try a truly authentic Indian beer Bavarian and Czech cuisine inspired meaty heavyweights, arrive. Q Open 08:00 until last guest. €€€. PTALVESW Kingfisher, Indian Rum and 18 types of tea. QOpen 12:00 - The fact that it is a good walk down the canal from the metro 23:30. €. PALVSW station means you have the chance to walk of all the calories after. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAULSW Asian and Indian Umao C-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 11, MAdmiralteis- Cardamon C-2, Nab. Makarova 22/31, MSportivnaya, kaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 33 15, www.umaocafe.ru. Karl & Friedrich B-1, Yuzhnaya dor. 15, MKrestovsky tel. (+7) 812 313 38 99, www.cardamom-bar.ru. This This cosy Pan-Asian café, situated very close to St. Isaac’s ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 320 79 78, www.k-f.ru. Escape from yet to be fully discovered Indian restaurant is located on the Cathedral, appeared here in St. Petersburg less than half a the toxic city air to this great restaurant on Krestovsky island, spit of Vasilevsky Island, right in the historic centre of St. year ago and was an instant success due to its great Asian which serves up wonderful fresh fish and freshly brewed beer. Petersburg. The oriental style interior is completed by Indian food and restful atmosphere. Wooden furniture combined The portions are large and great value for money. There are tapestries on the floor. Definitely worth sampling is its deli- with modern elements such as original transparent chairs three varieties of Karl & Friedrich beer brewed on-site. Q cious naan and poppadom. Longtime Indian resident in St. fill gives it an airy, clean-cut feel. Simplicity – that’s the right Open Sun - Thu 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 until last guest. Petersburg Ravi runs the show around here and is determined word to describe the interior of the café – nothing distracts €€. PTAULEBSW

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Harat’s Irish Pub E-3, Nevsky pr. 109, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 717 12 09, www.harats.ru. Coming all the Cafes and Coffee houses Caucasian and Central Asian way from Irkutsk, where the first Harat‘s opened up, this St. Cafe Singer D-3, Nevsky pr. 28 (Dom Knigi 1st floor), Baklazhan E-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky Petersburg pub has everything on offer you‘d expect. Whisky MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 82 23. A long while back pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 677 73 72, and beer is what you should drink here and there is plenty to there used to be a terrible coffee shop here run by some of the www.baklazhan.net. The open kitchen concept com- choose from. At Harat‘s you can have a real Irish breakfast, most incompetent and unfriendly waiters in the city. Thankfully all bined with beige rusticism seems to be mode du jour for grilled sausages or a club sandwich while watching your traces of that establishment have completely disappeared. In its Ginza Project. The twist at Baklazhan (Aubergine) are the favorite sports on tv. In the weekends there is live music place you will find a large café serving decent coffee and cakes as touches of deep purple to the decor, wine bottles lining in this cozy bar on Nevsky Prospekt just past the Moscow well as classic Russian dishes like borsch and pelemeni. The staff the walls and a market stall of sorts selling fruits and nuts railway station. This pub is successfully exported to more here will actually look you in the eye and bring you your menu/cap- near the entrance. The food itself is standard Georgian then 15 Russian cities, so they‘re always close to where you puccino/bill when you ask them for it and they can even be caught fare with a few more innovative dishes. Stick with baked are. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 until last guest. smiling sometimes too. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. €€. PAGS goods, such as their stuffed samsas, khachapuri and PAEVW the like and you‘ll be treated to piping hot goodness that‘ll Idealnaya Chashka D-3, Nevsky pr. 32/34, MNevsky stick to your bones. Q Open 10:00 until last guest. €. Trappist Е-2, Ul. Radishcheva 36, MChernyshevskaya, pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 57 06, www.idealcup.ru. The Ideal PTALVESW tel. (+7) 812 275 99 35, www.cafetrappist.ru. Cafe Trap- Cup is St. Petersburg‘s most successful coffee-house chain; it pist is a Belgian pub that prides itself in good beer, good food has a couple of pleasant cafes on Nevsky prospekt alone. It Djigiteria C-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, MSportivnaya, and good service. Trappists are an order of Catholic monks who serves good coffee in all forms imaginable including alcoholic tel. (+7) 812 677 36 99, www.gigiteria.ru. This live by strict rules, but brew fantastic beer in their monasteries and non-alcoholic coffee cocktails, at decent prices. The relatively new addition to the city’s Georgian restaurants in Belgium and Holland. With an entire book filled with beer cakes, while very sweet - in true Russian tradition - are great, is very different from the sort of thing you normally see. options ranging from affordable to over 2,000Rbl., Trappist is particularly the Black Forest. It can get rather busy here. Q No dark wooden interior, no fake vines adorning the walls definitely a beer place. However, don‘t expect to find any Baltika Open 07:00 - 23:00. €. PTASW - instead, a modern, bright, yet warmly lit interior. The or cheap Russian beers here, as they have imported more than restaurant’s name is a play on the old word Gigit, meaning 100 beers from Belgium and Holland for your enjoyment. The Smalldouble D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 26, MSennaya pl., “young fellow” or “macho”, plus the ending of your usual food is also quite tasty with Belgian classics and traditional tel. (+7) 812 932 82 17, www.smalldouble.com. This pizzeria, cafeteria. The menu is not too large, but boasts bar food to choose from. From Friday to Sunday, you can order tiny, non-smoking coffee shop on Kazanskaya ul. has a huge all that you’d expect from the South Caucasian kitchen. fresh mussels delivered directly from the White Sea. QOpen selection of coffees that can be made for you using various The food is well prepared and they certainly take care over 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAEGSW preparation methods as you wish. They also have a large the presentation. Most importantly, although the portions selection of teas, homemade pastries, candies, and cook- seem somewhat small, the food tastes really good and ies, and three types of sandwiches served on freshly-baked fresh. If you bring your little ones there’s a small play Dva Piva Pazhalusta! – ciabatta bread. The friendly atmosphere is enhanced by its room for them and a nanny at weekends. It is located a open format where customers can observe and even chat short walk from the Peter & Paul fortress, just next to the Two beers please! with the cooks while they are preparing your food. Q Open Zenit soccer stadium and inside a new business centre, 08:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. €. PAGSW but don’t let that put you off: once inside, it’s a real treat. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW

Khochu Kharcho D-3, Sadovaya ul. 39/41, MSado- vaya, tel. (+7) 812 310 32 36, www.hochuharcho. com. “Khachu Kharcho!” means “I want Kharcho!” - kharcho being a traditional Georgian stew containing mutton/lamb, vegetables, rice and a highly spiced bouillon. Here they serve three different types of the dish and it is definitely worth trying as a warm and filling main course.This is not just a Georgian restaurant, it’s a Megrelian restaurant and there is a big difference. Megrelia is a historic province in the western part of Georgia where walnuts feature prominently in the cooking and they like their food spicy. Iso Dzandzava, the brand chef of the restaurant knows all cooking secrets of Megrelian housewives. She always adds hazelnuts into kharcho – just like they do it in that blessed region. Other must-try-dishes include the rich and cheesy Megrelian khachapuri or the fragrant chakhokhbili (spicy chicken stew). Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTALVESW

Mamalyga D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 82 87, www.mamaliga-mamaliga.com. Mamalyga is a Ginza group Caucasian restaurant, and is ambi- tious and wide-ranging in its menu as are most Ginza projects. Two steps from Nevsky one can find all kinds of food from the region: Georgian, Imeretian, Armenian, Adzharian, Megrelian, and the cuisines of Swaneti and Guria, thus one can try the various cuisines of the Caucasus here in peace without any of the local antagonisms. Authenticity is a word that the owners use quite often to describe their food and it comes through in the food that is prepared by local cooks (meaning local from there). The menu features a mix of well-spiced (the food is not watered down for local consumption) shashlyks, salads, khachapuris, and pretty much anything else you could want from the South Caucasus. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTALVSW

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 30 Restaurants Restaurants 31

French quiches, Dutch soup and herring, and mussels. The Stroganoff Steakhouse C-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. Teremok E-3, Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 café is designed in a Provencal style with furniture made from 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 55 14, www. 363 23 41, www.teremok.ru. Head upstairs and worship at light-coloured wood, high ceilings, and bookshelves filled with stroganoffsteakhouse.ru. If steak is your thing, a visit to the throne of Teremok - the pancake or bliny kings. Although dishes. They also have a sunday brunch: a set menu of hot this deluxe ranchhouse, perfect for the modern sophisticated it is strictly fast food, the bliny are assembled as you order and cold appetizers with a glass of French wine and either cattleman, is sure to satisfy. The rich leather upholstery, the them and there is a wide variety. Restaurant also at Nevsky tea or coffee with homemade sweets for 550Rbl. QOpen green bankers lamps, the sepia pictures from the bygone era pr. 93, check the other 35 locations via their website. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00. €€. PTALESW are nothing compared to the delicious food. The steaks are 10:00 - 22:00. €. PTNGS the main attraction, but the buffalo wings and everything else Via dell‘oliva C-2, Bol. Morskaya ul. 31, MAdmiral- on the menu are also worthy support acts to the main steak teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 65 63, www.viadelloliva.ru. event. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PTAULESW International Some of the remnants of Via dell Oliva‘s former guise as a 22.13 D-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. Greek restaurant remain and the choice of elaborate seating Victoria D-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, (+7) 812 647 80 50, www.22-13.com. The owners have areas (derelict castle, quiet village street or bougeanvilla MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www. taken inspiration from all of their favourite places in creating this covered house) all point towards the fact that the focus taleonimperialhotel.com. A conceptual menu offers the gorgeous two storey restaurant overlooking the former imperial is still Mediterranean, if indeed all that‘s left of the Greek unique treat of luxurious, yet classic Russian dishes which stables. Culinary influences include American hamburgers, Thai menu is the Souvlaki. For the most part the influence is are related to nearby landmarks - many of which are visible curries and Italian pizzas. Furnishings and accents are equally Italian, although you‘ll also spot Russian hits such as stro- from the lofty terrace or floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking eclectic and the space has been arranged in such a way that ganoff in there too. Dishes from the grill are most popular Nevsky prospekt and the Moika canal. The sumptuous menu there are all sorts of nooks and crannies to settle into for long and whatever you order be sure to request some of their gives the history of the dish as well as the site, creating a meal chats over innovative cocktails or to while away the hours with excellent lemony olive oil for dipping. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. for both body and mind. Fine dining staples included are meat, your laptop or any of the books and magazines they‘ve thought- €€. PAESW fish and game in this royal parlour of a restaurant at the top of fully provided. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. €. PTALESW the Taleon Imperial Hotel. Breakfast buffet and business lunch also on offer. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00. €€. PTALEW Buddha bar F-3, Sinopskaya nab. 78, MPl. Aleksandra Fine dining Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 318 07 07, www.buddha-bar. Legran D-2, Millionnaya ul. 4/1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. ru. There are branches of the glamorous Buddha Bar brand (+7) 812 643 04 44, www.legran-rest.ru. A new addition Good and Cheap in numerous cities around the world such as Paris, London, to the Hermitage neighbourhood, this French restaurant Kroshka Kartoshka E-3, Nevsky pr. 122 A, MPl. Voss- Monte Carlo and Washington. Russia has joined the club. The serves up French and Russian cuisine in a roomy, well-lit, taniya, tel. (+7) 901 305 21 50, www.kartoshka.com. Buddha Bar in St. Petersburg brings the finest elements of the and well-designed space that resembles a wine cellar. The This very no-frills joint is an ode to the humble potato (kar- lounge-restaurant brand to Russia with a wide-ranging menu wait staff is attentive and friendly and the menu is expansive toshka). You can get your kartoshka in the kroshka style (i.e., of fancy pan-Asian cuisine with French accents, an inimitable featuring French beef, fish, and duck dishes, as well as many baked) with a choice of fillings such as feta cheese, bacon and lounge music soundtrack and ultra-chic surroundings. Flashy, of the standards of Russian food, which seems appropriate sour cream or aubergine stew. They also do paninis, salads and classy and a little bit exotic, Buddha Bar will prove popular with enough here considering the influence French cuisine had on very cheap beer to wash it all down. Also at ul. Malaya Sadovaya the cocktails crowd and fans of far-Eastern cuisine. Q Open Russian cooking in the pre-revolutionary period, which the 3 (metro Gostiny Dvor). QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. €. TGS 17:00 - 02:00, Wed - Sat 17:00 - 05:00. €€€. PAESW restaurant duly pays homage to. This restaurant has set high goals and it certainly looks like they know what they are European doing. Additionally, Legran prides itself on its family-friendly Freeman‘s D-3, Kazanskaya ul. 8, MNevsky pr., tel. attitude and organises many children-oriented activities such (+7) 812 312 05 40, www.freemans.su. They say good as cooking classes, on holidays and weekends. QOpen things come in small packages, and this certainly is the case 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTASW at this fine-dining restaurant near Kazan Cathedral. Freeman‘s serves interesting flavour combinations (try the scallops with miX in St. Petersburg D-3, W Hotel, Voznesensky chocolate and hazelnut) with a touch of finesse. The portion pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 66, sizes are small, though, so go with the intention of getting www.wstpetersburg.com. The first restaurant in at least two courses. The restaurant is located opposite a Russia from multi-Michelin starred chef Alain Ducasse. pole dancing club and consequently the table in the window By combining haute cuisine with contemporary design, is always reserved; however the restaurant itself feels very miX fits perfectly into the surrounds of what is now one classy. Ask to sit downstairs for a cosier atmosphere. QOpen of Russia‘s hippest hotels. Service is perfect and the 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW atmosphere is every inch as glamorous and lively as you may hope. The menu is filled with local and European Metamorfos E-3, Radisson Sonya Hotel, Liteiny pr. dishes, all given the finest French touches by the highly 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 06, presentable chefs over in the open kitchen. After examin- www.radissonblu.com. This stylish Russian restaurant ing the impressively long wine list be sure to sample one ticks all the boxes for those who are looking to sample real of their highly creative cocktails. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00 Russian food with a modern twist. The interior was designed (breakfast 07:30 - 10:30, lunch 12:00 - 18:00, dinner by the wildest imaginations of famous contemporary Swedish 19:00 - 24:00). €€€€. PTAEGKW designers and the menu mixes up traditional Russian favou- rites with flair. It‘s possible to spend time just philosophising Palkin E-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 over the menu itself, which has been designed to reflect a 703 53 71, www.palkin.ru. Palkin is as historic as they Dostoevskian novel. It‘s Russian, but not as you would usually come, dating all the way back to 1874. Although restoration know it. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. Bar open 09:00 - 01:00. €€. did take place, the interior is as sophisticated and tasteful PTAUSW as in imperial times, which all adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a meal in some rich aristocrat‘s home. The Philibert E-4, Kolomenskaya ul. 29, MLigovsky pr., tel. menu is bursting with luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, (+7) 812 607 41 39, www.philibert.ru. A quiet café with black caviar and game moulded into historic French/Russian homemade food located on a quiet street not far from Ligov- recipes from a bygone era. They also have a seasonally sky Prospect. It is named after the legendary and hospitable changing five-course special menu with specially selected French farmer Frantz Philibert who wound up in the Dutch wines, themed around a different wine-growing area of the provinces and gained fame for his cordial and fine fare. The world. Booking is recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. menu is not big, but is interesting. Here you can try delicious €€€€. PTAEW

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 32 Restaurants Restaurants 33

Gosti D-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 13, MAdmiralteiskaya, Putanesca E-2, Ul. Belinskogo 6, MMayakovskaya, Fine Beaujolais tel. (+7) 812 312 58 20, www.gdegosti.ru. Dining in this tel. (+7) 812 922 33 80, www.putanesca.ru. They call Located north of Lyon in eastern France, Beaujolais over- continental cafe is a bit like going to your provincial granny‘s themselves a ‚Bar and Kitchen‘, and this is a fair judgement: laps Burgundy in the north and Rhône in the south. The cottage. If your granny has as much taste as she does knick- the kitchen provides a good range of tasty Italian dishes, picturesque Beaujolais vineyards run along the Saône knacks. Each of the rooms has plenty of florals, books and but it‘s the drinks and desserts that make Putanesca stand River, where winemakers have crafted deliciously supple decorative odds and ends on the wall, but the effect is homey out. The cocktails are delicious and unusual, as are the and fruity wines since the days of Ancient Rome. Over rather than cluttered. Staff are delightfully friendly and the menu homemade lemonades and house teas. As for dessert, we mainly granite terrain, the Beaujolais Crus form a meander- boasts hearty, flavoursome risottos, pastas and dishes fresh would seriously recommend the strawberry flambé. And if ing path. From south to north, Brouilly is followed by Côte off the grill or from the oven. Portion sizes allude again to the you can‘t get enough of their homemade pasta, buy some to de Brouilly, Régnié, Morgon, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Moulin-à- generousity of granny and can easily be divided into two meals. take home with you! It even comes with tips on how best to Vent, Chénas, Juliénas and Saint-Amour. The region has Q Open 08:00 until last guest €€. PTAEGBSW cook it. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 until last guest, Sat ideal growing conditions. It receives lots of sunshine and 12:00 until last guest, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. €€. PAESW has granite-based soils that lend excellent structure to Kitchenette E-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. the wines. You wonder why we are telling you all this? Not 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 383 52 48, www. Romeo‘s Bar and Kitchen C-3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsa- so long ago the St. Petersburg In Your Pocket team was kitchenette.com.ru. Sitting in one of the train carriage style kova 43, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 54 48, www. invited to a fantastic Beaujolais wine press lunch held by booths in Kitchenette, it‘s easy to escape the stresses of the romeosbarandkitchen.ru. Having opened its doors in late Aurelie Vabre at the Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg. Aurelie busy shopping centre just the other side of the wall. The red and October, Romeo‘s fills a void in one of St. Petersburg‘s most told us lot of interesting things about Beaujolais wines and black interior is based on a British railway stations and trains, beautiful neighborhoods. Near the Mariinsky Theater and a its pairing with the Russian cuisine. And we can say that it even down to the highly stylised luggage-rack above your head. number of new hotels, Romeo‘s offers some of the highest matches perfectly! Try it yourself. Ask for Beaujolais wines As for the food, portion sizes are generous, and the ingredients quality and reasonably priced Italian food in the city (one is in the best Russian restaurants of St. Petersburg! good quality. Try their very own ‘Kitchenette Burger‘ if you‘re usually easy to find, but not both). The décor and atmosphere feeling more than a bit peckish, or treat yourself to something are relaxed, inviting guests to linger long and spend cozy from their all-day breakfast menu. Q €€. PTALSW evenings with their guests. A nice place to bring a date or have a family celebration (a children‘s menu is available). Being a Okean C-2, Dobrolyubova pr .14 bldg. A (next to Birzhevoy proper Italian restaurant, there is a wide assortment of fish bridge), MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 986 86 00, www. and to mix it up a bit there is also a wide selection of Cau- okeanspb.ru. What was once the popular Aquarel restaurant, casian and Russian starters and mains. All ingredients were has finally been revealed to be a new elegant (in other words, fresh and the portions were reasonable. But most of all you‘ll reasonably priced) restaurant that is not as flashy as the old like the prices. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW place but certainly retains the view, atmosphere and terrace that made it so popular before. The coolest aspect of the archi- Schastye na Nevskom E-3, Nevsky pr. 55, MNevsky tecture is that the walls are windows - so wherever you sit you pr., tel. (+7) 812 328 85 55, www.schastye.com. can see the River Neva stretching out beyond. QOpen 12:00 Schastye or Happiness is another good addition to the centre - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PTALEW where you can eat well and take a break from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. The chef is inspired by his culinary excursions (the most recent one being to New York) and uses an interesting mix of ingredients to make his creations. The interior is warmed by light and minty tones which create for a laidback and casual atmosphere. The menu is filled with balanced breakfasts which can be ordered at any time, soups, creative main dishes, and a wide range of desserts. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW

Taverna Grolle C-2, Bolshoy pr. VO 20, MVasileostrovs- kaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 62 58, www.grolle.ru. When heading to Grolle don‘t expect it to resemble your usual watering-hole. Although named after the old Dutch city that is home to the famous Grolsch beer, this restaurant is definitely a notch above your average tavern. They have an excellent choice of local fresh fish on their large menu and a whopping bronze mangal (grill) where you can order fresh shashlik and the like. The huge win- dows give you a nice view of this upgraded area on Vasilyevsky Island and this place is a convenient stop when strolling around the historic neighbourhood. Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTESW

Teplichnye usloviya D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 25/3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 56 59, www.teplichnie. ru. If you love Russian and European cooking with a minimal- ist interior then welcome to Teplichnye Usloviya! It has the decor of a rustic cottage in a village and is made to resemble a greenhouse in the cottage of a Soviet elite in the 1930s. This place is well known for their homemade fruit and berry compotes and the menu offers a mix of Russian and European cuisine featuring traditional Russian borsch, homemade chicken cutlets with potatoes, as well as Italian pastas, and special creations of the chef, as well as original desserts such as beet or cucumber sorbet and a cherry tree tort. They also have boardgames on offer for guests to play, as well as film screenings of classics. Q Open Mon - Thu, Sun 11:00 until last guest, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. €. PASW

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 34 Restaurants Restaurants 35

Vegetarian Idiot C-3, Nab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 16 75, www.idiot-spb.com. With numerous rooms filled with comfortable and cosy antique furniture, eclectic titbits and reading material in English and Russian, Idiot is worth visiting just for the atmosphere. Here you can taste a variety of traditional Russian dishes, with a decent selection of vegetarian food and a reasonable kids menu. Many people though come to Idiot simply to absorb the atmosphere, and to drink. Guests are given a complimentary mini-shot of vodka, while the cordial english speaking staff hand you the Dosto- evsky inspired menu; then, during happy hour (18:30 - 19:30), you get two draught beers or glasses of house wine for the Seafood price of one, plus the complimentary vodka. Quite the deal! Fish House D-3, Grivtsova per. 4, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PTASW 812 448 22 77, www.fish-spb.ru. Fish, fish, more fish and seafood - this is one for the piscivores, although with a good Ukrop E-3, Ul. Marata 23, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 beef stroganoff on the menu carnivores will be happy too. This 946 30 36, www.cafe-ukrop.ru. This quaint vegetarian cafe very plain looking fish house specialises in American style fish is a nice place to relax and grab a healthy meal that won‘t break grills - the portions are huge as well as the massive ceramics the bank. On the first floor there is a counter where you can they arrive on. We enjoyed the trout with spinach, although order already prepared food for a quick bite and on the second it took a long time to grill it to perfection. They also do some floor is a full-service restaurant. Its interior with books on the nice Russian pickled fish with delicious black bread. QOpen windowsills, green plants and waterfalls creates a refreshing 12:00 - 23:30. €€€€. PTAULESW atmosphere that leaves you relaxed when you leave. The friendly waiters bring complimentary mint water to each guest Langust C-1, PS Bolshoy pr. 84, MPetrogradskaya, and explain the menu, which includes vegetarian, vegan and tel. (+7) 812 449 56 00, www.restoranlangust.ru. It raw food options. And, for those of you who are artistically is immediately apparent upon entering that they take their inclined, feel free to draw with the colored pencils that sit on seafood here very seriously indeed. You will be greeted by a each table! QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. €. PTALGSW massive concierge desk, a table offering glossy catalouges describing their chef, ingredients and gastronomic philosophy and bubbling tanks of your soon to be appetizers. Their menu Bez myasa – without meat is a careful selection of live or fresh from the sea fish, lobster and shellfish. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAEBSW

T.G.I. Friday‘s E-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky Mama Luba C-1, Sablinskaya ul. 3, MChkalovskaya, pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 448 74 37, www. tel. (+7) 812 405 83 85. If like us you‘re a bit wary of yet tgifridays.com. It‘s all here. License plates and sports another restaurant with the name ‚Mama‘ something - think tchotchkes on the walls. Wait staff displaying pieces of flair again, because this one deserves a chance. It might sound and broad smiles. Gargantuan portions of fried appetizers, a bit like another tacky commercial mock-ethnic affair, but it‘s burger plates and sizzling fajitas. Even the middle of the really nothing of the sort. The restaurant claims to be Italian, road radio rock. Truth be told, it‘s a bit disconcerting. Our but apart from the presence of some pasta dishes, that‘s not waitress was overwhelmed with joy at being able to practice really clear from the menu. What could be called Italian about her English and offered us all kinds of upgrades from cheese it is the way it lets the flavours of fresh natural ingredients on the fries (mozzarella, American or blue), to lemon with shine through, whether in the strawberry and basil cocktails, the Coca Cola and thank heaven, leftovers can be wrapped the interesting homemade nastoyki (homemade infusions) or up to go. So when you‘re aching after getting a third of the in the homemade pasta. Like the food, the décor is un-fussy way through you‘re meal, just say the magic word and you‘ll with some nice twists, and while waiting guests can watch find tomorrow can also be Friday. Also located at Pulkovo their food being prepared in the open kitchen. QOpen 12:00 2 airport and Staraya Derevnya. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €. PTASW €€. PAS Marcelli‘s D-3, Nevsky 43, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 984 41 44, www.marcellis.ru. Marcelli‘s is a chain of Italian welcoming Italian restaurants with a simple style reflecting BRERA Bar C-3, Pochtamtskaya ul. 14, MAdmiral- the usual images of Italy (olives here, cheese case there), teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 941 90 90, www.brerabar. although it‘s the tables full of noisy dinners that really make ru/. A new and interesting menu has appeared on the up the unpretentious atmosphere. The pared-down menu Italian gastronomic map of the city. BRERA Bar is named tends towards pastas and risottos in marathon-runner-sized in honour of the famous quarter of Brera in Milan, which portions. The dishes pop with garlic and the sauces are infused is famous for its restaurants, museums, art galleries, and to bursting point with tomato, chili and basil - delicious. With fashion boutiques. The chef has created a menu that an open kitchen, Marcelli‘s offers diners yet another possibility features not only Italian classics, but also Russian and to eat quality Italian food in the heart of the centre. Also at ul. European dishes in interesting new interpretations. Every Vosstaniya 15 (metro Pl. Vosstaniya, open 11:00 - 24:00) and Friday BRERA Bar hosts an evening of Milanese aperitifs pr. Kosmonavtov 39/27 (metro Moskovskaya, open 12:00 - and free and unlimited Italian appetizers are served after 24:00). QOpen 08:00 - 06:00. €. PTASW any drink is ordered. We think that this is a great way to spend a Friday night out. It is not a very large restaurant, so reservations are recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. Shchyot budte dobry – Check please! €€. PASW

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 36 Restaurants

Summer is here! And lucky you - there are literally hundreds Cathedral is the place for the city’s glitterati. Another great of places to hang out al fresco and enjoy the sun. Here we’ve option for roof-top dining with a view on, among others, the picked out what we think are some of the city’s best roof top Hermitage you can experience at Bellevue Brasserie, on the terraces and bars. top floor of the Kempinski Moika 22 hotel. You’ll feel like you own the city (see picture above!). Over on the Petrograd Side (PS) next to the football stadium, Up on the roof Italian restaurant Makaronniki does a fine line in relaxed Due to strict planning laws in St. Petersburg you will never rooftop eating and drinking - it’s so relaxed in fact that they find yourself towering over the city from great skyscrapers even have some sun loungers set up for young ladies who (which for the architectural beauty of the city is a good thing), want to top up their tan. The upmarket Nevsky Centre shop- although there are a number of good places where you can ping mall, has a roof terrace restaurant called Moskva which enjoy rooftop views and the unbridled sunshine that usually has great birds eye views of Nevsky Prospekt. Finally those comes with them. Sleek, discreet and more than a little on low budgets or in search of a young artistic crowd should snobby, Mansarda’s large roof terrace has a candid view head to the roof terrace on top of the Loft Project Etagi art of the nearby St. Isaac’s Cathedral and stays open late for centre where the food and the beer is as cheap they come. sunset cocktails. Over the street at the 5-star St. Petersburg Renaissance Baltic hotel, they also have a great view over Bellevue Brasserie D-2, Kempinski Hotel Moika 22, the Cathedral’s golden dome from their 6th Floor Terrace. Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 For fine dining up on the roof, the gorgeous roof top restaurant 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. QOpen of the Taleon Imperial Hotel - Victoria - is a top spot whilst 12:00 - 03:00. €€€. W Hotel’s miXup bar up on the roof adjacent to St. Isaac’s Green Room E-3, 3rd floor, Loft project ETAGI, Ligov- sky pr. 74, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 458 80 03, www.loftprojectetagi.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 06:00. €. Makaronniki C-2, pr. Dobrolyubova 16, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 677 60 88, www.makaronniki.ru. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. Mansarda C-3, Pochtamskaya ul. 3, MAdmiralteis- kaya, tel. (+7) 812 946 43 03, www.ginza-mansarda. ru. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. miXup D-3, W Hotel, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteis- kaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 66, www.wstpetersburg. com. Q Open Sun - Thu 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. €€. Moskva E-3, Nevsky Centre Shopping Centre, Nevsky pr. 114, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 937 64 97, www. ginzaproject.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. €€. The 6th Floor Terrace E-3, St. Petersburg Renaissance Baltic hotel, Pochtamtskaya ul. 4, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 40 00. QOpen 14:00 - 02:00. €€. Victoria D-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www. taleonimperialhotel.com. QOpen 07:30 - 11:00, 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com 38 Nightlife Nightlife 39

James Cook D-2, Shvedsky per. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. William Bass Pub E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Voss- and is bursting with the kind of atmosphere that wouldn’t be (+7) 812 951 22 02, www.jcpub.ru. This popular tavern in taniya, tel. (+7) 812 717 93 39, www.williambass. amiss in Berlin or Budapest. The homemade interior reflects a vintage basement features one of the longest bars in town. ru. Another local homage to Russia’s love affair with British the eclectic mix of clientele with industrial breeze blocks and The cellar is divided into two halves, one for the consumption culture. The interior nods to all the usual British stereotypes exposed piping, graffiti by tattoo artists and reclaimed items of coffee and cakes, the other reserved for the harder stuff. Not with portraits of the royals, big leather armchairs downstairs of cheap furniture. Staff are very friendly and the DJ sets are only are the draft beers diverse and poured expertly, there is a to lean back in with a pipe and there’s also even a bright red often very good. Q Open 17:00 until last guest. ESW wide range of tempting snacks to accompany your beverage of room labeled ‘ye olde curiosity shoppe’ in the sprawling area choice, including some great steaks served up on a wooden upstairs. Bass brews obviously feature heavily on the menu, Cafe-Bar Produkty E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 17, butcher’s block. Also at Kamennoostrovsky pr. 45 (metro alongside numerous other real ales. The location makes it a MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 57 54. Produkty’s owner Petrogradskaya). QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat perfect place for a pre- or post-train pub meal and drink. Q apparently was inspired by those quirky little hole-in-the-wall 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. PAESW Open 24hrs. PAESW sized bars that make the Berlin nightlife scene so legendary and in terms of both design and vibe the inspiration really Mollie’s Mews D-2, Ul. Bol. Konyushennaya 5, shows. Produkty rocks its retro 1960s reclaimed furniture MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 51 71, www.molly.su. Artsy and Underground so well, that even the guests in their boho beards and fake A newly hewn branch of the popular Mollies pub. The Mews Atelier Bar D-3, Ul. Lomonosova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. spectacles, look like they also were brought in as part of lacks the old-fashioned battered and bruised bar clutter (+7) 812 998 12 90, www.atelierbar.ru. This three storey, the decoration. The music is of course old-school jukebox which has been worn-in over 15 year at the original pub on rough-at-the-edges bar/club, just round the corner from the and retro favourites or new wave and post-rock synth-pop, Rubinsteina ulitsa. What they are missing in history they hectic Dumskaya ‘bar street’, has a bit of squat feel to it while for drinks its cocktails which take forever to construct make up for in space however. Mollie’s Mews is much bigger but is moving with the times and has updated its interiors or bottles of beer. Just to make you feel extra special, you than its legendary parent, meaning there’s space now for live to make things a little more comfortable.The crumbling con- have to ring the door bell to get in. Q Open 11:00 - 01:00, Celtic folk bands who drum up a jolly atmosphere and draw crete walls have been given a lick of pain and the toilets have Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. the big crowds on Friday and Saturday evenings. QOpen become less sess-pit style than previously. Atelier attracts PAEW 12:00 - 06:00. PAESW a predominately grungy student set and can feel a bit too ‘young’ for some. The music is as unpredictable as the face Mishka E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevksky pr., Pickwick Pub E-2, Ul. Ryleeva 6, MChernyshevskaya, control but given the proximity of so many other bars you tel. (+7) 812 643 25 50, www.mishkabar.ru. Named tel. (+7) 812 275 61 41. Pickwick is a real English pub can always hop out and try another venue and pop in later after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking husky, this through and through. The staff exchange friendly banter to see how things are swinging. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00, Sat, tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with pink accents. with the punters, there’s premiership football on the tv, real Sun 15:00 - 06:00. PEW All the hipsters are here, with their oversized glasses and ales on tap and pickled eggs on the bar. The cosy interior is handmade accessories. They’re smoking Belomorkanals The nightlife in St. Petersburg is brilliant. You can eat, drink a beautiful recreation of a London victorian pub complete Borodabar D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 11, MNevsky pr., tel. ironically and tapping their feet to the DJ who’s sharing and dance around the clock. The city has dimly lit jazz with hand-carved wood fittings, a real fireplace and antique (+7) 812 923 89 40, www.borodabar.ru. This hole-in-the- space with the friendly bartenders. As a bonus, the toilet halls, groovy strip-clubs and a vibrant underground music stained glass fittings. Order a pint of one of twenty on tap wall sized bar is a happy addition to St. Petersburg’s burgeon- rules are interestingly translated - who flushes their wallet scene. On a night out in this wild town, you’ll find unique and settle in for some jolly good fun with the chaps. Tallyho ing underground bar scene. Despite its diminutive size the down the bowl? QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - performances and eccentric people everywhere! old chum! Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun, atmospheric Boroda (beard) bar still packs in the people 06:00. PASW Mon 12:00 - 01:00 PASW

Bars and Pubs Shamrock C-3, Ul. Dekabristov 27, MSadovaya, tel. Abeerdeen E-2, Liteiny pr. 10, MChernyshevskya, tel. (+7) 812 570 46 25, www.shamrock.spb.ru. This cosy (+7) 812 400 22 17, www.abeerdeen.ru. Somehow they’ve Irish pub opposite the Mariinsky Theatre has a great atmo- managed to make medieval elegant instead of gimmicky at this sphere, 13 types of beer and seriously good food. Sometimes Scottish gastro pub. The hammered silver finishings and rough dancers of the Mariinsky come here incognito for a drink after wood is in harmonious accord with subtle tartan wallpaper and their performance. Otherwise the pleasant companionship of photographs. Which is dangerous considering how extensive Russians and expats creates an enjoyable and unpredictable their whiskey selection is - hands down the best in the city. evening. Hear traditional live Irish music on Wednesday and on Throw in pleasant, helpful staff, massive portions of delicious Sunday night various folk musicians meet up for a jam session. pub grub and you may find you’ve spent everything in your wallet The Shamrock also shows international sport events on 3 and are not the least bit sad about it. In case your wondering, big screens, including English Premiership football, American haggis is indeed available - but bring your adventurous friends, NFL, rugby and local sport favourites Zenit and SKA. QOpen as the minimal order is a whopping three kilos. QOpen 11:00 - 11:00 - 02:00. PAESW 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. PAESW Telegraph E-3, Ul. Rubinsteina 3, MMayakovskaya, Dickens D-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya tel. (+7) 812 327 74 79, www.pub-telegraph.ru. This pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. stylish British pub, situated in a cosy cellar not far from Nevsky This British island near the Fontanka river has beer from Prospekt, is an easy meeting place for beer lovers, which is all around the world, including more than ten on tap, and a why it can be enjoyably crowded here. Another plus is the big lot of superior whiskys. The snacks and food are good too screen for live football and other sports matches. In some (the chicken wings are our favourites) and come in huge ways it is a bit of a lonely old man’s pub where you can find portions. Don’t forget to try the breakfast here - it’s a great dozens of single men who’ve got no one to cook for them hangover cure and real authentic British. Dickens has an having a plate of bangers and mash on their lonesome. Q authentic pub atmosphere, which is as close to a real British Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PALESW pub that you’ll find in Russia and also features a fine dining restaurant on the second floor. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, The Office Pub D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, MNevsky pr., Sat 13:00 - 01:00. PALSW tel. (+7) 812 571 54 28, www.molly.su. This elegant Irish pub not far from Kazan Cathedral attracts locals, expats and tourists who mingle over shots and beers. They have a wide To read about even more clubs and bars selection of beer on draught including Guinness, Belgian cherry beer and just about everything in between. It’s one in St. Peterburg check out our website of those offices where you don’t mind staying late, but doing st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com overtime definitely has the opposite effect on your wallet. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PALSW

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 40 Nightlife Nightlife 41

Clubs Live Music Clubs Cocktail bars Avrora E-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. Bar 812 E-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 11, MMayakovskaya, (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.avrora-zal.ru. Set in supposedly St. Petersburg’s live music scene is really buzzing and tel. (+7) 812 956 81 29, www.bar812.ru. Weeknights the site of the first disco in St. Petersburg (then Leningrad in there are a wide range of live music clubs to choose from this narrow bar seems like a quiet, unassuming place to sip the 1970s), Avrora has recently been taken over by Yaroslav where you can catch new and up-and-coming Russian a cocktail and chat with a date or a friendly fellow patron. Pomogaykin of Jagger Club fame. It bills itself as an entertain- bands. For the better known names you should head At the weekend, however, the beautiful people come out to ment complex and certainly has grand ambitions with a bowl- to the bigger concert halls such as A2, Cosmonavt, glide past face control and play Carrie Bradshaw with their shaped concert hall that can fit up to 1500 during concerts Avrora, Dada or Zal Ozhidaniya. A2 and Avrora in cosmos in hand and dance stillettos at the ready. No beer, and a smaller and more intimate hall, B.B. King, which features particular, are very large and modern clubs, with multiple just (expertly) mixed drinks. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat smaller concerts and other events. The programme features stages, and are great places for seeing foreign touring 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. PEW a mix of pop, rock, folk, punk, and alternative concerts as well club acts and established local groups. as disco nights and after parties. In much of the club there is If you prefer to step into the underground there are a number Daiquiri Bar D-2, Ul. Bol. Konyushennaya 1, MNevsky an amazing view of the Big Nevka River and the Avrora Cruiser. of great intimate venues to choose from. Fish Fabrique and pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 81 14, www.dbar.ru. Sexy girls in QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. PLEW the GEZ-21 experimental sound centre in the neighbouring racy outfits and handsome men in suits cover the walls in this Pushkinskaya art centre usually tend towards rock, indie red, white and chrome homage to Sex and the City. The staff Barrel D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) and alternative bands, while intimate clubs such as Dada are extremely friendly and the cocktails professionally made - 812 929 82 98, www.project-barrel.ru. This slick black are also favourites for underground rock and punk bands. the house daiquiris are particularly good. With more than 300 and neon looking place has got a bit of an attitude to it - one Avrora club E-2, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. exotic yet reasonably priced cocktails on the list it can be a that says dress rich and spend money. Their cocktails are Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.avrora-zal.ru good place to start the weekend. Also at Gorokhovaya ul. 49. good compared to the sad orange juice and vodka (‘the Club A2 D-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. Q Open 16:00 - 04:00. Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PASW screwdriver’) that you may get served in the average bar, (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.a2.fm although they take a long time to arrive. There’s also an Club Cosmonavt D-4, Ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekh- Graf-in C-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, elaborate menu done up like a glossy magazine offering a bit nologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www. tel. (+7) 812 601 01 60, www.graf-in.com. The English of everything, but primarily this is a place to sit in your fox fur cosmonavt.su meaning of grafin is “carafe” which is fitting since the place is stole with a martini and look down at the fellow wannabe VIPs Club Zal Ozhidaniya D-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kanala decorated with them. With its trendy interior, attractive staff in attendance - until it’s pole dancing time, of course. Free 118, MBaltiyskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 10 68, www. and state of the art hookahs, it is clear that Grafin caters to karaoke on Wednesday nights and frequent guest DJs at the clubzal.com. the more glamorous crowd. Wearing casual street clothes may weekend. Q Open 12:00 until last guest, Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Dada D-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 47, MSennaya, tel. (+7) make you feel a little uncomfortable among all the men in suits. Sat, Sun 15:00 - 06:00. PAESW 921 424 39 69, www.dadaclub.ru Grafin offers a huge cocktail menu that includes your standard Fish Fabrique E-3, Ligovsky pr. 53, MPl. Voss- drinks as well as more unusual cocktails like the delicious “Berry Purga E-2, Nab. reky Fontanky 11, MMayakovskaya, taniya, tel. (+7) 812 764 48 57, www.fishfabrique.ru Cheesecake”. An extensive food menu includes the usual tel. (+7) 812 570 51 23, www.purga-club.ru. There are GEZ D-3 Pushkinskaya 10, MPushkinskaya, tel. Italian and Asian selections, plus other dishes like sea bass two Purgas right next to each other on the Fontanka river. (+7) 812 764 52 58, www.gez21.ru and steaks. A separate menu gives you the option to order Purga I celebrates New Year’s Eve every night complete with hookahs for 1,500 - 2,500Rbl an hour, during which the tobacco midnight countdown and mock TV address by Russia/Soviet is changed four times. During the week it’s pretty quiet, but leaders. In Purga II, couples celebrate mock weddings and on the weekends you should reserve a table. Luckily, all table dress up in white plastic creations to look like brides and Jazz and Blues reservations are free! QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 06:00, bridegrooms. Book ahead if you want to get a table and make JFC Jazz Club E-2, Ul. Shpalernaya 33, MChernyshevs- Sat 11:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PTAESW sure you arrive before midnight, when the festivities begin. kaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 98 50, www.jfc-club.spb.ru. It’s QOpen 16:00 - 06:00. PASW hard to believe that this intimate, little club can hold more than Zing Bar D-3, Lomonosova ul. 14, MDostoevskaya. 100 people. It has a stage, a handful of tables and standing Cocktails, Russia’s beautiful artistic youth and a wicked Radiobaby D-3, Ul. Kazanskaya 7, MNevsky pr., www. space around the bar, for the people who forget to book a soundtrack (yes, rock music instead of the Café del Mar radiobaby.com. With its high ceilings and groovy modern table. It’s popular with the city’s artsy scene and with people soundtrack, it’s possible!) are the draw cards of this stylish décor, Radiobaby has been cleverly divided with the dance who know their jazz. It has original performances by top-notch little cocktail bar. The interior is sleek and intimately lit, but floor, bar and chill-out room all flowing into one another so musicians playing just about anything from experimental jazz, not so much so that you can’t actually see anyone or anything you can rock, drink and relax all in one place. The crowd is to acid jazz to blues. QOpen 19:00 - 23:00. PUEW as can be experienced elsewhere. In another seemingly in- a diverse mix of hipsters and the old-guard and the DJs are novative move it’s all non-smoking and there’s little in the local favorites who know how to keep the energy up. The no Jimi Hendrix Blues Club E-3, Liteiny pr. 33, MMaya- way of face control. The menu focuses on the classics and house, no techno rule is in effect. Entrance is through the kovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 88 13, www.hendrix-club. is historically separated into ‘old’ (19th Century), recent archway and to the left. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PEW ru. Russian blues stars play songs with their soul and other and modern sections which also includes their own Russian instruments on a small stage in this intimate cellar. Here it feels influenced creations. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PAGW Show Hall Atmosfera Lesnoy pr. 48, MLesnaya, tel. as though Jimmy Hendrix is still alive - if he is, he’s probably a fre- (+7) 812 907 62 62, www.showhall-atmosfera.ru. The quent visitor! The kitchen serves excellent Russian and Georgian theatrical and gloriously kitsch Show Hall Atmosfera encom- food. If you wonder why it takes so long before you get your order: passes all kinds of entertainment under one roof. Here you’ll it’s all made fresh. We recommend booking a table in advance, find a festive atmosphere with larger-than-life shows featur- the joint is always packed. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAE ing not only well-known singers, but also dancing fountains, colourful laser shows and sometimes even acrobats. The The Hat Bar E-2, Ul. Belinskogo 9, MChernyshevskaya. interior is beyond imagination with huge pillars inspired by If you add whiskey and jazz together you get The Hat. The Hat Greek Gods surrounding the immense amphitheatre style boasts 30 different types of whiskey and nine different types set-up. Not just a place for dancing and enjoying live entertain- of bourbon. However, if you aren’t a huge whiskey fan, the ment, Atmosfera also boats an extensive menu of European expert barmen can create any drink or cocktail you desire. and Asian cuisine. Q Open Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Entrance The bar is designed to look like an old-time American bar that to the show 500Rbl. PTALVESW you would see in classic Hollywood road movies. There is live music everyday and when the live music stops, jazz plays continuously in the background. The soothing jazz rhythms are Tyomnoe – dark accompanied by the clanking of drink glasses and lively chatter, Svetloe – light (for beer) which creates a vibrant atmosphere that is sure to brighten anyone’s mood. QOpen 17:00 until last guest. PEW

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 42 sightseeing sightseeing 43

Russian Museum D-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya 4/2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. A Hermitage dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze of beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured genre. It is widely acclaimed for containing the most outstanding collection of icons from ancient Rus. The Benois Wing has an especially strong display of work from the turn of the twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which host temporary exhi- bitions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150-350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300-600Rbl. Peter and Paul Fortress (State Museum of history of St. Petersburg) D-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmu- Hermitage C-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance seum.ru. The Fortress is the cradle of the city; St Peters- from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) burg‘s first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. The famous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along director of the Hermitage once said, “I can‘t say that the with numerous museums, galleries and spectacular river-side Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but Photo by Ilya Schegolev views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandant‘s it‘s certainly not the second.” And with over three million House museum which examines the history of the city and works of art and treasures housed in five connected build- St. Petersburg‘s World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of the Kazan Cathedral D-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva Curtain ings along the Neva, the museum can‘t fail to impress. most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europe‘s greatest ar- tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. This Wall which studies the history of the Fortress itself. However, Give yourself plenty of time and try to go on a weekday to chitects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet times. The city cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter‘s in Rome, is one the more unusual Engineer‘s House and Museum of Space avoid the crowds or even take a virtual tour. Four hours is has an enormous amount of individual tourist attractions which of the city‘s most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811 to Exploration are really very quirky and good. The Mint displays probably an absolute minimum of time to spend there if remain enchantingly beautiful and steeped in fascinating history. house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The dome coin collections and the Printing Workshop contains printing you want to see the main state rooms and some of the is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky has 96 and ceramic relics. Visit the Neva Curtain Wall archway for the most popular artworks. columns. Be warned, it‘s a quiet place and they don‘t like you best view, and brave a dip in the bracing waters… at your The Essentials to talk a lot in here, it‘s place of prayer and contemplation. own risk. Q The fortress is open 08:30 - 20:00. Museums Aleksander Nevsky Monastery F-4, Nab. reky Mo- QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Daily services 07:00, 10:00 and open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00, closed Wed. Cathedral nastirky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 18:00. Admission to the church is free. Guided tours should open 10:00 - 18:00, Tue 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00, 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Founded by Peter the Great, be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 570 45 28. closed Wed. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. 280Rbl (ticket valid for all museums). Audioguide 200-250Rbl. Petersburg. The St. Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum of Anthro- cemetery, where you can visit the graves of Russia‘s greatest pology and Ethnography) C-2, Universitetskaya nab. St. Isaac’s Cathedral D-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAd- composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www. miralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral. Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in the mon- kunstkamera.ru. St. Petersburg‘s oldest museum is also its ru. Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac’s is one of the astery‘s bakery in the afternoon (on your left as you approach strangest. Kunstkamera (which translates as art house) was world’s largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is the Trinity cathedral from the entrance). Q Open daily 06:00 founded by Peter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the adorned with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by - 20:00. Monastery 06:00-20:00. Daily services at the Trinity Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858 Cathedral 07:00, 10:00, 17:00. Necropolis 09:30 - 17:30. It has anthropological and ethnographic collections on the the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great who was cultures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear day we Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood D-2, Nab. of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected recommend climbing to the dome’s top; the panoramic view The museum‘s art collection covers all of the great- kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 on their worldly travels. Peter‘s Anatomical Collection with its is absolutely worth the effort. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed est European movements. Lovers of the renaissance 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. This Moscow-style church with severed hands and malformed babies in jars still draws the Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed shouldn‘t miss the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos richly coloured onion domes looks a bit out of place in the crowds. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of of the month. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade are and Raphaels of the Italian rooms. The Rembrandt room European centre of St. Petersburg, but it‘s one of the city‘s every month. Admission 150-250Rbl. sold separately. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl. Colonnade filled with works by the old master is another must as most beautiful and memorable landmarks. It got its awkward 150Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl. are the nearby El Grecos. The great impressionists like name because it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse, Picasso and the gang II was murdered in 1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church‘ Summer Garden D-2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 are all up on the top floor where there is also a very large because the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, 03 74, www.rusmuseum.ru. Tsar Peter the Great created selection of Oriental and Middle Eastern art. each wall with a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated the Summer Garden, surrounded by beautiful iron fences, in The ground floor houses the museum‘s treasures of an- in the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997. Q 1704. Most of the trees and all 250 statues were imported cient Greece, Rome, Egypt and Persia as well as antiqui- Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50-250Rbl. from Italy. For a century, it was the exclusive domain of ties from the near and central east.There is also a number people of the highest rank. Tsar Nicholas I opened it up to of cafes and shops on the ground floor just to the right Cruiser Avrora D-1, PS, Petrogradskaya nab., ‘well-dressed people,’ but these days they don’t care what of the main staircase after the entrance to the museum. MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 84 40, www.aurora. you wear. These statues have seen it all. There’s a display The largest number of opulent state rooms such as the org.ru. The battle ship, anchored off the banks of Petrograd of twelve funky handturned iron chairs positioned in a circle, throne rooms, ballrooms, boudoirs, the spectacular clock Side, has become somewhat of a Soviet shrine. This is each one made by different blacksmiths. QOpen 10:00 - room with its huge peacock clock and other libraries, because blank shots fired from the Aurora are said to have 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission free. parlours and the like are largely located on the first floor been the trigger for the revolution of 1917. The ship was (in Russian 2nd floor) of the winter palace and lead off in sunk during WWII, to protect it from German bombing, and, Take note that most museum ticket offices different directions from the Jordan staircase (where you in 1958, it was made into a museum. It is operated by the close one hour before the official closing enter the museum just after the ticket offices).QOpen Central Naval Museum. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, time. Also remember most museums ask 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admis- mysterious rumours have been spreading that it is, in fact, you to buy an extra photography ticket if you sion 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl. Excursion bureau (+7) a replica. But who knows? Why not find out for yourself! Q would like to take photos or videos 812 571 84 46. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Admission 50 - 300Rbl.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 44 sightseeing sightseeing 45

Smolny Cathedral F-2, Pl. Rastrelli 3, MChernyshevs- Pier with Lions kaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 31 59, www.cathedral.ru. The Museums Lyrical City view over the city from this blue baroque cathedral is worth Arctic and Antarctic Museum E-3, Ul. Marata 24a, Anna Akhmatova Mu- Central Landing-Stage Pier with Lions D-2, the climb to the top of one of the bell-towers. Smolny, once MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 25 49, www.polar- seum E-3, Liteiny pr. Admiralteiskaya nab. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) the centre-piece of a convent founded to educate young museum.ru. The small building on the corner of Marata and 53, MMayakovskaya, 812 320 08 77, www.boattrip.ru. One of the joys of St. noblemen and women, is nowadays a concert and exhibition Kuznechny streets is a gleaming and quirky palace-converted- tel. (+7) 812 579 72 39, Petersburg is the chance to go boating along the canals hall with an exhibition of Smolny’s history on display. From the museum. It is filled to the brim with maps of Arctic and www.akhmatova.spb.ru. and rivers. You really get a different perspective of the city nearby neo-classical Smolny Institute, Lenin orchestrated the Antarctic expeditions, ship models, photos, stuffed models In this former palace you can from the water and the reflections of the coloured sky October Revolution in 1917. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Bell-tower of animals and artifacts. Above the displays hang a series visit the flat where Russia‘s and palaces are enchanting. At the central landing-stage 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, concerts of beautiful paintings of snowy landscapes, seascapes, and greatest poetess lived for Pier with Lions they offer regular water water trips every 200 - 700Rbl. Bell-tower 100Rbl. scenes of expedition sites and native wildlife. The first floor almost 30 years. Ten rooms hour along the Neva River, the Gulf of Finland, the city’s is dedicated to the Arctic while the upper level (up several hid- chronologically represent canals and even to the fountains of Peterhof. They have den flights of stairs at the entrance) is all about the Antarctic. ten eras. Photographs and tours with audioguides in different languages, special jazz Though the signs are in Russian, the quirky museum is worth artefacts from Akhmatova‘s tours, BBQ evenings, a bar and a VIP lounge. QAdmis- a visit for anyone interested in the topic and seeing stuffed hard and fascinating life are sion: tickets for adults range from 400 - 1,000Rbl. Online penguins, polar bears and walruses. The special treat is a on display; books of her po- booking and discount for children, students and return dated but effective simulation of the northern lights. Q Open etry that never left the print- tickets. PAUTKE 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, last Fri ing house and letters from of the month. Admission 50-150Rbl. her imprisoned lover. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions of other artists. Audio-guides in English, German and French; free texts in English in the rooms. Q Open 10:30 - 18:30, Wed 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 60-200Rbl. Admission to the garden of the Fountain House free. Audioguide 100Rbl. F. M. Dostoevsky Liter- ary-Memorial Museum E-3, Kuzhnechny per. 5/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) St. Nicholas Cathedral C-3, Nikolskaya pl. 1/3, 812 571 40 31, www. MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 714 70 85, www.nikols- md.spb.ru. Dostoevsky‘s kiysobor.ru. Built between 1753 and 1762, this blue and weathered corner-apartment white cathedral is one of St. Petersburg’s most beautiful. In is a two minute walk from the 18th century, this part of town was the sailors’ quarter, MusEros, Museum of Erotica E-3, Ligovsky pr. the metro. The museum is which is why the cathedral was named after Nicholas - the 43/45,, MLigovsky pr. 43/45, tel. (+7) 812 905 03 divided into two sections: Churches and Monasteries patron saint of sailors, and why locals sometimes call it ‘the 94, www.музэрос.рф. The collection of the first real literary and memorial (his Chesma Church Ul. Lensoveta 12, MMoskovskaya, sailor’s church.’ The two-storey Baroque building has low museum of erotica features several dozen exhibits spread apartment and belongings). tel. (+7) 812 373 61 14, www.chesma.spb.ru. When ceilings and a warm and inviting interior. At the church gates out over five halls featuring everything from Japanese erotic The audio-guide will enrich a messenger told Empress Catherine the Great about the on the Kryukov canal, there is an impressive four-story bell engravings and time machines from the time of Catherine the the experience and lessen Russian victory over the Turkish Fleet at the Bay of Chesma, tower. Q Open 06:30 - 19:30. Daily services 07:00, 10:00, Great to BDSM materials and Soviet propaganda posters. confusion. Displays include newspaper articles that inspired she immediately decided to have a church built on the spot 18:00. Admission free. There is a 3D viewing hall on the premises as well showing him and photographs of the house where The Brothers she was standing. Ten years later, in 1780, the foreign look- soft core erotica, although it plans to show more educational Karamazov story is set. Also gives fascinating biographical ing, white and red striped building was finished. Across from programming in the future. Q Open 24hrs. Admission 490Rbl. details about his arrest and exile. Whether you are interested the church stands the neo-gothic Chesma palace. It served in Dostoevsky‘s brave character, turbulent life, or amazing as a stopping ground for Catherine on her way to Tsarskoye Russian Etnographic Museum E-2, Ul. Inzhenernaya work, this museum is certainly the premium place to go. On Selo. It was also where Rasputin was laid in state after his 4/1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 54 21, www. weekends contact tel. (+7) 921 977 43 00. Q Open 11:00 murder. The church served as a museum during Soviet times ethnomuseum.ru. Wanting to get deeper in touch with the - 18:00, Wed, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon and on public but was revived as a place of worship in 1999. The palace lifestyle of Russia‘s various native ethnic minorities? The Rus- holidays. Admission 70-150Rbl. Audioguide 100-170Rbl. currently houses an elderly person‘s home. Q Open 09:00 sian Ethnographic Museum is the place to be. Situated right Guided tours for up to 20 people from 1,550Rbl per group, - 19:00. Daily services 10:00 (except Mon). Sat services next to the Russian Museum, the large collection contains should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 571 40 31. 10:00, 18:00. thousands of different traditional handcrafted items such as jewellery, clothes, weapons and tools used by different native Literature Museum C-2, cultures across Russia and Central Asia. Some information Nab. Makarova 4, MS- about exhibits is available in English. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. portivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 Closed Mon and last Fri of month. Admission 50-350Rbl. 328 05 02, www.pushkin- Excursion 1,500-2,500Rbl (10-25 pers.). skijdom.ru. Known as the Pushkin House, this museum Suvorov Memorial Museum F-2, Ul. Kirochnaya 43, preserves some real literary MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 39 14, www. treasures. As well as works suvorovmuseum.ru. Although this museum takes the name by Great Russian writers Troitsky Cathedral D-4, Izmailovsky pr. 7a, MTekhno- of Suvorov, the great war general of Empress Catherine Lermontov and Tolstoy, you logichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 251 89 27. Although the Great, it actually covers much more than the military can find the writing-table of in need of some serious reconstruction, this cathedral still accomplishments of one man. There are comparative his- the great symbolist Blok. manages to impress because of its vastness and big blue tory displays of war and battle of the 18th century all over Did you know that the mu- domes which overlook the nearby Fontanka canal and a Europe, the deeds of Napoleon and the uniforms and regalia seum holds an astounding (clothing) market. The cathedral can hold up to 3000 people of the time. The building itself is also worth seeing, built in 12,000 manuscripts by poet simultaneously. Inside look out for a special column, made 1904 following a decree from Nicholas II in a grand style to Pushkin? The museum is situated on the second floor of of the iron of captured rifles during the Russian-Turkey war accentuate what is Russia‘s first memorial museum. QOpen the Institute for Russian Literature. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. in 1877-1878. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00, 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue, Wed. Closed first Mon of the Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 200 - 350Rbl. Excursions from Fri - Sun 17:00. month. Admission 20-250Rbl. 1,000Rbl for 25 people group.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 46 sightseeing sightseeing 47

Petersburg’s Waterways Modern Art Centres Creative space Weavers (Tkachi) E-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 60, MObvodny Kanal, tel. (+7) 812 319 25 85, www. tkachi.com. The fifth floor of the Tkachi Creative Space is a 2000-square-meter multifunctional area for exhibitions, perfor- mances, master classes, lectures, festivals, concerts, fairs and more. The space also includes a small bookshop named for Jorge Luis Borges and a cozy café. The building is named after the Russian word for weavers (tkachi). The renovation of this former cotton-spinning and weaving mill was partially completed in 2010. At the moment only the first and fifth floor are in use while the others remain under renovation. On the first floor there are a lot of retail shops where you can buy designer clothes and bags (we especially like Banya Concept Store), eye glasses, books and even bicycles. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00. Admission free. Special events 50 - 100Rbl. Tours around St. Petersburg Musical Gatchina Erarta, Museum and Galleries of Contemporary Liberty Ltd, travel company for the disabled, tel. Art B-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 81 63, www.libertytour.ru. This travel Gatchina 45km south of St. Petersburg, Palace: Also known as the ‘Venice of the North’, St Petersburg (+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. The Erarta company specialises in wheelchair accessible tours in and Krasnoarmeisky pr. 1, tel. (+7) 813 719 34 92. It is famous for its waterways. And with a multitude of museum is the biggest non-governmental contemporary around St. Petersburg. The guided tours work with specially may have the austere look of a military institution, but canals and rivers, not to mention the Gulf of Finland museum in Russia and definitely one of its most exciting. The fitted transport vans and take in the regular sights such as inside you can see that the Gatchina Palace was home right on the doorstep, Petersburg very much deserves spectacularly restored five story building is separated into the Hermitage as well as general sightseeing and to the city to the Romanov family, although the rooms are not that title. Founded in 1703, the city was originally built two parts - one a gallery where the works are for sale and suburbs such as Peterhof. Tour length and prices vary from the so luxurious as the palace in Pushkin. The palace has on a swamp (explaining the incredibly deep metro lines!), the other a museum tracing the history of Russian modern 1hr Spilled Blood Tour up to the 5hr jaunt to Peterhof. QOpen various temporary and permanent exhibitions including a and the city’s waterways have played an important role art of the last 60 years. Some of the works and installations 10:00 - 21:00. Tours from 1,000Rbl. AU weaponry display and the church at the top of Gatchina‘s in Petersburg life ever since. on display are truly monumental in size and will leave anyone main pedestrian mall is also worth seeing. But the big The city’s founder, Peter the Great, intended the Neva interested in new Russian art swooning. The passionate Petersburg Voyage E-3, Ligovsky pr. 56-G, off. 609, attraction is the underground tunnel running from the river to be the ‘main street’ of St Petersburg, with curators are constantly updating their collection by travelling MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 967 513 26 80, www.petersburg- palace to the ornamental lake (how cool!). Gatchina‘s Petersburgers learning to punt like the Venetians in across Russia to find unknown future stars and track down voyage.com. The Petersburg Voyage travel agency offers palace was badly damaged during WWII, and restoration summer, and walking or sledging on the ice in winter. To old favourites from all periods and streams of the Russian various private and group tours and excursions all over St. work is still in progress. The nice leafy park is a great start, there was only a single wooden bridge crossing contemporary movement. Currently they have around 2000 Petersburg, Russia and the surrounding area. Any personal place to stretch your legs! Q Admission to the park is the Neva, and it was not until 1850, nearly 150 years works so make sure you give yourself some time. QOpen itinerary of events and places can be accommodated, or visi- free. Palace admission: 60 - 300Rbl. Audioguide 200Rbl. later, that the first permanent bridge was built. Now, of 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. Admission 300Rbl. Guided tours in tors can join pre-existing tours and excursions, featuring many GETTING THERE: from Moskovskaya metro, take bus course, the rivers and canals are littered with bridges – for up to 25 people 3,000Rbl per group by prior arrangement. of the most popular sights. Petersburg Voyage only works with N431 or marshrutka K18; or from Baltisky station, take a there are 342 of them, in fact – some narrow, suited only Audioguide 100Rbl. the best professional guides in St. Petersburg who are experi- train to Gatchina station, which is also (confusingly) called for pedestrians, others vast, buzzing with the sound of enced, polite, and knowledgeable. Tourists’ needs are always Baltisky. Park open 24hrs. Palace open 10:00 - 18:00. vehicles, horns, shouting and revving. Loft Rizzordi Kurlyandskaya ul. 49, MNarvskaya, tel. put first and they so far have always left satisfied. Q TAU Closed Mon and the first Tue of the month. The three most famous rivers in St Petersburg are the Neva, (+7) 812 702 90 62, www.rizzordi.org. This 4000 square the Moika, and Fontanka. The Neva, at 1300-2000 feet meter loft is located in a spectacular old building made of red Peterswalk - Walking, Bicycle and Boat Tours 06.07 Saturday wide and adorned with imperial architecture, is the most bricks - a splendid example of architecture of the second half tel. (+7) 812 943 12 29, www.peterswalk.com. A di- 23:00 The Night of Music in Gatchina of the 19th century. This building is part of the Kalinkinsky verse choice of tours and personalised routes, add in some impressive. The Moika is considerably smaller, but still The Gatchina Palace, www.gatchinapalace.ru. The brewery, one of the oldest breweries in Russia - you can smell extremely informative and downright friendly guides makes lined with fascinating 18th Century architecture, including Night of Music in Gatchina festival returns in 2013 with it in the air. They have a specific atmosphere here and you going on a Peter‘s Walking Tour one of the best choices you the Stroganov and Yusopov Palaces, the New Holland Arch the theme, “Between Chaykovsky and James Bond: can attend different exhibitions of European and Russian art- can make while visiting St. Petersburg. Guides are extremely and the notable St Micheal’s Castle. Watch out for the Blue Young Virtuosos of the World in Gatchina”. As usual the ists, art workshops and nice parties. They also have a little informative about architecture and history, as well as modern Bridge, Petersburg’s widest bridge at 97.3m, which spans festival will take place in Palace Park under the open sky. strawberry farm where Israeli bumblebees are working very Russian society and with their ‘alternative‘ routes, they can the Moika at St Isaac’s Square. Like the Neva, Fontanka This is its fourth incarnation and the first to garner an hard on pollinating strawberry. Getting there: on Nevsky pr. show you how to escape the tourist traps and reveal the real has always played an important role in the geography international status with American, Norwegian, Belgian take bus 22 and get off at Rizhsky pr. From metro Narvskaya city. By the end of your tour you feel inspired and educated. In of the city. Originally, the river marked the edge of the St and Russian conductors and soloists on the bill to perform take marshrutka 1, 2, 6, 169, 177, 195 or bus 2, 6, 66. Q the summer they also have bicycle tours and new canal boat Petersburg, although the city has since extended far beyond this five-hour concert of classical music and its crossover Open 14:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. tours: enjoy the view of Saint Petersburg sitting on a brand Fontanka’s banks. All three, along with the numerous other genres, such as jazz and popular soundtrack music from Admission free. Special events 100-200Rbl. new comfortable boat with an open deck at the back and a rivers and canals of St Petersburg, have played a huge role Hollywood blockbusters and Broadway musicals. This sun-roof inside area in the front. Q Original walking tour daily in the literature and art so strongly associated with the unique festival will close with its traditional fireworks show 10:30 (Vladimirsky pr. 1). Walking tour 650Rbl. city, and along their banks you can find the houses (many set to Chaikovsky‘s 1812 Overture. of which are now museums) of many famous writers and artists, including Alexander Pushkin, Anna Akhmatova and Sptn!k C-2, Birzhevaya liniya 16 (VO), MVasileostrovs- Ivan Turgenev. kaya, tel. (+7) 921 418 35 11, www.sptnik.com. Those The rivers and canals are at their best in the summer. who want to get down and really meet the locals rather than just They come alive, filled with boats. There are boat tours, sweatily bumping into them in metro carriages and late night boat busses and boat taxis. And there is no better way clubs should check out the ambitious new tourist guide service to see the city. The banks of the main rivers and canals offered by sptn!k. It‘s a simple scheme whereby local volunteers are filled with beautiful buildings: the Winter Palace, take visitors into the best parts of their daily life; whether it the Admiralty, the Peter and Paul Fortress, to name be hidden Soviet-era cafes, roof top vistas, communal apart- just a few. There are nightly boat trips under the raised ments or quirky courtyards, every tour is unique, insightful and bridges, under the twilight sky of the White Nights, and enlightening. Envisaged as a cross-cultural project they aim to during the day there are boats constantly taking people give tourists a slice of real life and show them their favourite up and down the river, allowing them to enjoy the warm parts of the city which tourists might never get to see. QOpen breeze and the beautiful views St Petersburg has to offer. 10:00 - 23:00. Guided tours in English up to 1,200Rbl. Some free tours are also available. Groups up to 15 people. AUW

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 48 shopping Shopping 49

Galeria Bookshops Russian Souvenirs Anglia E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 38, MNevsky pr., tel. Galeria D-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 579 80 07, www.britannia-spb.ru. QOpen There are dozens of traditional souvenirs you can bring (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. The largest 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. A back with you from Russia. Top everyone’s list is usually shopping mall in the centre of the city and a stone’s throw Biblioteka Projector E-3, 4th floor, Loft Project Etagi, a Russian doll, but there are a lot more other things worth away from the Moscow Railway Station, Galeria cannot Ligovsky pr. 74, MLigovsky pr., tel. +7 911 218 74 39. spending your money on too. be missed. The huge beautiful new building fits remark- QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. AKW ably well here. Inside, it’s everything you would expect Bukvoed D-3, Nevsky pr. 46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 Matryoshka’s from your modern shopping mall and more. It boasts 601 06 01, www.bookvoed.ru. Q Open 24hrs. AKW Russian dolls are the quintessential Russian souvenir. the largest selection of brands in St. Petersburg, from Dom Knigy D-3, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 Usually painted with the cute faces of a Russian girl or high street brands like Topshop, Levis, Mexx and French 448 23 55, www.spbdk.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. AK stylised family, you can also get them painted with dictators Connection to some Russian designer clothes as well. of the world, former US presidents or even just left plain to It also features a huge supermarket, food court, movie paint yourself. Prices will usually depend on the number of theatre, bowling alley and some very good restaurants. Gifts and Souvenirs dolls and the intricacy and range of colours of the design. When with children, head to the top floor where there is Art - Boutique Dynasty C-2, VO, 6-ya Liniya 3, a huge entertainment area for the young and young-at- MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 09 19. QOpen Lacquer Boxes heart. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW 10:00 - 19:00. AU Russian lacquer boxes are some of the finest Russian La Petite Opera Gallery D-3, Grand Hotel Europe and handicrafts still produced in Russia. Creating the distinc- Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MNevsky pr., tive shiny black layer using many coats of lacquer and tel. (+7) 812 571 80 83, www.lacquerbox.net. QOpen then painting on the front minute scenes from Russian 09:00 - 21:00. fairytales and folklore, requires very skilled masters. Nevsky Souvenir Shop D-3, Nevsky pr. 22-24 (en- Usually the real ones feel a lot heavy than regular painted trance at Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 12), MNevsky pr., tel. wooden boxes and should have the signature of the artist (+7) 812 954 78 53, www.nevskysouvenir.com. QOpen both sides of the lid. 09:00 - 22:00. A Onegin Art Gallery souvenirs and paintings D-3, Ul. Birch wood crafts Italyanskaya 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 00 58, The silver birch is the national tree of Russia, the further www.onegin-gallery.com. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30. AUL in to the countryside you get, the more you notice that Pavloposadskie Platki Shop E-3, Nevsky pr. 87/2, the world’s largest country is covered in them. It then MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 963 329 12 63, www.platki. comes as no surprise that Russians have been experts ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A at producing items carved out of the bark of their favourite tree. Birch wood combs are particularly popular as they YellowKorner C-1, Bolshoy pr. PS, 86, MPetrograd- are said to be very good for your hair. skaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 84 07, www.yellowkorner. com. Petrograd side is the main ARTery of St. Peters- Shopping centres Nevsky Centre burg, where concentrated fashion galleries, lofts and Caravelle exhibition spaces. In one of the authentic mansions DLT Department store В-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. Nevsky Centre D-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. of Bolshoy Prospect recently opened an international 21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, Caravelle Vladimirsky Passage, Vladimirsky pr. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 313 93 13, www.nevsky- gallery YellowKorner, which presents a wide panorama www.dlt.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AKW 19, tel. (+7) 911 919 21 01. If you‘re a man planning centre.ru. This shopping centre in the historical heart of contemporary and vintage photography worldwide. Eliseevsky Store E-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. to make a gorgeous present to your woman in order to of the city is brand-spanking new and looks it inside and YellowKorner sells more than 1,500 exclusive photos that (+7) 952 376 73 76, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. QOpen make her feel happy and look stunning, then go to the new out. Anchored by Stockmann, the Finnish department could be the finishing touch for your space or original gift 10:00 - 22:00. AKW lingerie shop Caravelle! If you‘re a woman who‘s looking store, it is aimed at more upscale shoppers. You can find for your loved ones. It‘s time to buy art! QOpen 11:00 - Grand Palace Boutiques Gallery D-3, Nevsky pr. 44 / for the right set of fabulous underwear in order to please glamourous clothing outlets, cosmetics shops and those 21:00. PAW ul. Italyanskaya 15, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 449 93 yourself and make men adore you, then go to Caravelle! sophisticated bits and bobs for the house all under one 44, www.grand-palace.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. ALK Situated in Vladimirsky Passage, right in the heart of St. roof. There‘s also a spa, gym, roof top restaurant and a Passage D-2, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 Petersburg, this shop offers a wide range of awesome supermarket, located in the basement of the shopping 315 52 57, www.passage.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Italian and French underwear as well as swimsuits and centre. It has standard local foodstuffs and European Sun 11:00 - 21:00. AK leisure wear. Good service and reasonable prices will products for both the budget cook and the serious gour- Sennaya Shopping Centre D-3, Ul. Efimova 3, MSen- definitely surprise you. And, by the way, the owner of met. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW naya pl., tel. (+7) 812 740 46 38/(+7) 812 740 46 39, the shop, Anna, who speaks fluent English and German, www.sennaya.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. ALK will kindly meet you and help you if requested. QOpen Vladimirsky Passage E-3, Vladimirsky pr. 19, MVladi- 11:00 - 22:00. ALK mirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 331 32 32, www.vpassage.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. ALKW Vintage and Second-hand Flower Etiquette Banya Concept Store Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 60, If giving flowers to someone, you have no need to fear. A MObnodny kanal, tel. (+7) 812 457 19 48, www. nice bunch of blooms is always acceptable. That is, if you banyaconcept.com. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. ALKW give an odd number. Even numbers are only for funerals and Sweeter Shop D-3, Nab. kan. Griboedova 26, MNevsky the dead. As to what type of flower is a good one usually pr., www.sweetershop.ru. QOpen 14:00 - 21:00. depends on the recipient. The red rose is considered as Markets romantic in Russia as it is in most other countries. Take note Kuznechny market E-3, Kuznechny per. 3, MVladimir- though that due to the tradition of only giving an odd number, skaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 41 61. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, For a more detailed guide to all there can be no dozen red roses – just eleven. Yellow roses Sun 08:00 - 19:00. N the shopping options in St. Petersburg signify friendship. Tulips are used to express sympathy, yet Sennoy market D-3, Moskovsky pr. 4a, MSennaya pl., check the Shopping pages on our website yellow tulips hint to a hidden love. Orchids celebrate beauty tel. (+7) 812 310 12 09, www.sennoyrynok.piter-center. st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com and chrysanthemums undying youth and health. ru. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. N

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 50 expat and Lifestyle expat AND Lifestyle 51

In this section we seek to highlight various organisations one can join, fun activities for kids and the whole family, expat International Schools/Pre-schools The Expat Experience cultural institutions, religious services, and other items of German School C-1, Ul. Odoevskogo 19A, MVasileo- interest to make your expat experience in St. Petersburg strovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 21 59, www.deutsch- Tell us something about more full and fulfilling. There is a fairly well-developed and eschule.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. yourself? growing expat scene in the city and we recommend taking Infant School (British International School) D-3, My name is Simon Zagl- advantage of these connections. Nevsky pr. 136, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 714 mann and I was born in 77 74, www.infantschool.ru. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. 1977. My wife and our Closed Sat, Sun. little 11 month old son Accountants and Lawyers The International Pre-School E-2, Ul. Furshtatskaya arrived in St. Petersburg Avenir Group E-3, Vladimirsky pr. 23A, MVladimir- 22, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 921 977 89 35. in October last year, when skaya, tel. (+7) 812 718 81 57, www.avenir.ru. QOpen QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. I became the General 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Manager for Kempinski Acsour D-3, Nevsky pr. 10, business centre Geneum, Hotel Moika 22. We have 4th floor, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 454 44 24, Religious Services lived in Berlin and Munich, www.acsour.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Evangelical Lutheran Church of St. Katarina where we come from, Baker & McKenzie C-2, Bolloev Business Center, Business associations (Swedish church) D-2, Mal. Konyushennaya ul. 1/3, and have since travelled per. Grivtsova 4A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 303 90 SPIBA - St. Petersburg International Business MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 20 81, www.sweden- the world. My last two 00, www.bakermckenzie.com. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Association for North-Western Russia D-3, Nevsky abroad.com. Usual Sunday services at 12:30 (2 times a jobs were in Jakarta and Closed Sat, Sun. pr. 21, off. 506, tel. (+7) 812 325 90 91, www.spiba.ru. month in Swedish, other 2 times in English). Sunday school Bangkok where I helped EMG (Accountants & Consultants) D-4, 10-ya Kras- QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. for young children. to open new Kempinski noarmeiskaya 22, office 69, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 Evangelical Lutheran Parish of St. Maria Church hotels. 313 77 81, www.emg-russia.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8A, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) Closed Sat, Sun. Relocation and Supplies 812 314 71 61, www.elci.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. What were your first impressions of St. Peters- Ernst and Young (Accountants & Consultants) AAA-Logistics E-3, Ul. Sofiskaya 6, MVolkovskaya, Lutheran church of Peter and Paul D-3, Nevsky pr. burg? D-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 23A, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. tel. (+7) 812 921 412 02 51, www.aaa-russia.com. 22-24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 07 98, www. We arrived just before the winter did and first we had to (+7) 812 703 78 34, www.ey.com/cis. QOpen 08:30 - QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. petrikirche.ru. Q Open Tue - Fri 10:00 - 18:00. buy new clothes. Since we had been living in Asia, we 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Roman Catholic Parish, Church of St. Catherine had no warm clothes what so ever. But coming from the KPMG E-4, Ul. Marata 69-71A, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) of Alexandria D-3, Nevsky pr. 32-34, MNevsky pr., Bavarian mountains, the cold was no problem. I was 812 313 73 00, www.kpmg.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Cultural Centres and Libraries tel. (+7) 812 571 57 95, www.catherine.spb.ru. Daily pleasantly surprised by the beauty of St. Petersburg, Closed Sat, Sun. American Corners E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 46, services in Russian 08:30, 19:00; Sat 12:00 (Russian), 20:00 which I had never visited before. The people here are Pepeliaev, Goltsblat & Partners E-2, Ul. Shpalernaya MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 60 32, www. (Spanish); Sun 09:30 (English), 12:00 (Russian), 13:30 (Polish), nice and friendly, and, I have to say, that the image that 54, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 640 60 10, www. amcorners.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. 17:00 (French). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. sometimes exists in the West is completely wrong. pgplaw.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. British Book Centre D-4, Izmailovsky pr. 18 (Library Romanian Catholic Church of Lord Mother of God PricewaterhouseCoopers D-3, Per. Grivtsova 4A, im. Lermontova), MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 251 12 E-2, Kovensky per. 7, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 272 What are your favorite restaurants and why? MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 69 69, www.pwc.com. 43, www.britania-spb.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 04 42, www.kovensky.ru. Q Daily services in Russian Mon Well, it’s not just because I work at the Kempinski, but QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. 19:00; Tue - Fri 08:30, 19:00, Sat 08:30, 19:00, Sun 10:30, our rooftop restaurant Bellevue Brasserie is spectacular. The Institute for Enterprise Issues E-4, Ul. Marata 92, Danish Cultural Institute D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, off. 12:00, 19:00. Service in Polish every Sun 09:00. The view is just amazing and I love the food. But ok, if I MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 41, www.ipp.spb. 38, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 74 66, www.dki. St. Michael‘s Lutheran Church C-2, VO, Sredny have to mention something else, I would also recommend ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. pr.18 B, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 33 17, Mansarda. Again a rooftop restaurant, as I like to have Estonian Cultural Center Jaani Kirik C-3, Deka- www.stmihail.ru. Services Thu 19:00, Sun 11:00. After the some space around me and a nice view. bristov ul. 54A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 710 Sunday service the Bible hour is held. Sunday school (except Internations 84 46, www.jaanikirik.ru. Q Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat for the summer months). Concerts on Saturday and Sunday. What are the biggest challenges for the city to at- 11:00 - 19:00. tract more foreign visitors in summer and winter? InterNations is the biggest global networking site for Finnish Institute D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8, 3rd First and foremost, ease or cancel the visa regulations. expats of various nationalities and their family members floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www. A city weekend trip is so popular in Europe and this could with almost 200,000 members in 235 cities worldwide. instfin.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00. Closed be the same for St. Petersburg. This would immensely Already extremely popular in the capital Moscow, Inter- Sat, Sun. increase tourist traffic to the city. Nations is now rapidly expanding in St. Petersburg too. Goethe Institute D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 58, MSen- By becoming a member you gain access to the online naya pl., tel. (+7) 812 363 11 25, www.goethe.de/ What would you recommend a first-time visitor to social network were you can connect with other ex- stpetersburg. Q Open 08:15 - 20:00, closed Sat. Library St. Petersburg? pats, browse the various forums, leave tips for other open 14:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. Do what I did. A tourist trip around the city with a guide. expats and interact with people who may have the Institut Francais D-3, Nevsky pr. 12, MNevsky pr., I arrived in St Petersburg on a Thursday and on the same interests. tel. (+7) 812 571 09 95, www.ifspb.com. QOpen 09:30 Saturday after that’s exactly what I did. You get to see Most importantly of course InterNations also host - 18:30, Fri 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. a little bit of everything and you get a good grasp of monthly get-togethers. Check out upcoming events at Istituto Italiano di Cultura C-3, Teatralnaya pl. 10, the cultural richness of the city. Only afterwards you www.internations.org. MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 718 81 89, www.iicsan- Clinics and Hospitals realise that you had better extend your stay because pietroburgo.esteri.it. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, American Medical Clinic and Hospital D-3, Nab. there is no way you can see everything in just a few Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. reky Moiky 78, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 20 90/ days. And obviously, the Hermitage should be second Mayakovsky Library/ Foreign Literature Library (+7) 812 336 00 03, www.amclinic.com. Q Open 24hrs. on the list. E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 44-46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) PTAU 812 571 08 56, www.pl.spb.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00, Euromed Medical Center F-2, Suvorovsky pr. 60, closed Sun. Foreign literature department 11:00 - 19:00, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 03 01, www. Expat Contacts closed Sun. euromed.ru. Q Open 24hrs. PTAU Deutsche Runde/Stammtisch, tel. (+7) 921 879 99 The Netherlands Institute E-3, Kaluzhsky per. 3, Medi International Clinic E-3, Nevsky pr. 82, MMaya- 62, [email protected]. MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 08 87, www. kovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 777 00 00, www.emedi.ru. Dutch Club St. Petersburg, www.nlvpetersburg.com. nispb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 21:30. PTAU English Communication Club, tel. (+7) 911 163 56 YESOD Jewish Community Home C-1, Bol. Razno- Russian - Finnish clinic Scandinavia E-2, Liteiny pr. 55A, 45, [email protected], www.encc.ru. chinnaya ul. 25A, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 449 MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 77 77, www.avaclinic. International Women‘s Club (IWC), iwcstpete@ 58 85, esod.spb.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat. ru. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. PTAU gmail.com, www.iwcstpete.com.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 52 expat and lifestyle Getting Around 53

Russian for Expats Banyas, Spas and Pools Leaving St. Petersburg Degtyarnie Bathhouses F-3, Degtyarnaya ul. 1, Sobaku s’est’ – to eat the whole dog M Usually used in the past tense, as in “sobaku s’el” or Pl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 969 53 15, www.d1a. By Plane Q A “ate the whole dog”, this seemingly bizarre expression ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00. St. Petersburg’s two airports are south of the city. Most means to have gained a skill, a great amount of experi- Holiday Club Spa and Wellness C-2, Sokos Hotel international flights leave from Pulkovo-2, tel. (+7) 812 704 34 Palace Bridge, Birzhevoy per. 2-4, MVasileostrovskaya, 44, www.pulkovoairport.ru/eng/. Internal flights (including ence, or mastery in a certain field. First recorded by V. I. Q Dahl, the original phrase was “to eat the dog, but choke tel. (+7) 812 335 22 14, www.clubeasyfit.ru. Open those to most former Soviet Republics) leave from Pulkovo-1. on the tail”, denoting someone was carrying out a very 09:00 - 22:00. Don’t forget to take your immigration card with you and arrive difficult task but failed because of a small trifle. The Rimskie kanikuly (Roman holidays) A-2, Park Inn early as queues at Pulkovo-2 can be particularly long. Pribaltiskaya, ul. Korablestroiteley 14, MPrimorskaya, phrase’s origin is still disputed; some say it comes from Q times of great hunger when those who were masters of tel. (+7) 812 324 47 17, www.romanholidays.ru. Open Getting to the airport by Taxi Taxi-drivers may ask AKDC survival would even eat dogs to stay alive. 08:00 - 23:00. anything from 2,000Rbl, US$70 or €50 to take you to Royal Thai D-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 1, MNevsky the airport. Agree on the price first: a reasonable price is pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 54 06/(+7) 911 157 15 15, www. Public transport and Taxis no more than 800Rbl, US$30 or €20. If you phone a taxi royalthai.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PL Most Petersburg residents get around the city by public company and order transport to the airport in advance transport which operates from 06:00 to just after midnight. you can get a better deal. For taxi companies see page 9. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets on board Entertainment Centres from the conductor or the driver. Getting to the airport by Public Transport Buses Liden & Denz E-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 6, MNevsky pr., Bowling Park D-3, Sennaya Shopping Centre, ul. Efi- Bus/Trolleybus/Tram – Routes are indicated on window N113, N213 and fixed-route mini-buses (marshrutky) tel. (+7) 812 334 07 88, www.lidenz.ru. Liden & Denz mova 3, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 380 30 05, www. placards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley. K13, T113 go from Moskovskaya metro every 15 min is one of St.Petersburg oldest language schools, having bowlingpark.ru. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. Tickets cost 25Rbl. (19-28Rbl) to Pulkovo-2. Mini-buses K3 and K213 go opened in 1992. Russian is taught mostly in groups, Divo Ostrov B-1, MKrestovsky Ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 Metro – Petersburg has five colour-coded, numbered metro from Moskovskaya and also the more central Sennaya though individual tuition is also available. Situated in the 323 97 07, www.divo-ostrov.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00 lines. Buy tokens (zhetoni) from the windows labelled kassa Pl. There is also a 24hour bus route linking both the historical city centre not far from Gostiny Dvor, the school Fun City E-3, Nevsky pr. 112, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. or plastic cards for more rides which you can use for a fixed international and domestic terminals with the city features spacious and bright classrooms, all equipped (+7) 812 332 14 02, fcity.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. period. When you arrive at a station, you will hear the arrival centre. Bus K800 runs from Pulkovo-1 (domestic) and with modern facilities. There is workstation with iPads for PTAG station announced, followed by the name of the next stop. K900 leaves from Pulkovo-2. The route passes metro student use, plus wi-fi internet if you want to bring your Happylon E-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. One metro ride costs 28Rbl. stations Moskovskaya, Tekhnologichesky Institut and own laptop. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 800 100 00 20, www. Marshrutka – The marshrutka is a mini bus taxi which follows ends at Vladimirskaya. happylon.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTAKW a set route, hailing it down like a taxi. When you want to get off, yell out, ‘astanavites pazhalusta’. The price of the ride will usually be displayed in the front of the mini-bus. Pass your Fryday change down the front of the bus towards the driver to pay. Train Stations Taxis – Although there are official ’taxis’, most St. Baltiisky station Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBalti- Looking for a chance to unwind and kick off the weekend Petersburgers hail down ordinary cars. To foreigners, iskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 28 59. Local trains to and from with some like-minded company? Sure, St. Petersburg is travelling in an unmarked car may seem unsafe, and it Petrodvorets (Peterhof), Lomonosov, Oranienbaum, Gatchina, full of great bars, but it’s not always easy to dive into the is certainly advisable to take caution. There is a certain Luga, Krasnoe Selo. city’s nightlife on your own – which is where Fryday comes protocol to follow. Stand by a main road and stick out Finlyandsky station Pl. Lenina, 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. in. The idea is simple: those interested in an informal your arm - palm down. Always agree to a price in advance (+7) 812 436 67 46. Local trains to and from Helsinki, gathering over a drink or two, make arrangements via (‘Skolko?’); within the centre 150-200Rbl is normal. Then Vyborg, Zhelenogorsk, Sestoretsk, Repino, Komarovo, the group’s Facebook page and pick out a different bar hop in and enjoy the Lada experience. Try to avoid using Karelia. every few weeks. large denominations and asking for change. Ladozhsky station Zanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, The St. Petersburg edition is one of several all over Taxi 068 tel. (+7) 812 068, (+7) 812 324 77 77, tel. (+7) 812 436 53 10. Trains to and from Murmansk, Europe, and the original Fryday founders – a pair of ex- www.taxi068.ru Vologda, Svetogorsk, Kostomuksha. pat Swedes in Kiev – estimate that any given weekend Taxi 7000000 tel (+7) 812 7000000, Moskovsky station E-4, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Voss- Mademoiselle Cake might see 500 people or more attending these meet-ups www.taxi7000000.ru taniya, tel. (+7) 812 457 44 28. Trains going to Moscow anywhere from Warsaw to Almaty. For more details, see and anywhere south of Moscow. Mademoiselle Cake is Leonie, a creative mother originally www.facebook.com/fryday.saintpetersburg. Vitebsky station C-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPush- from the Netherlands who loves to bake and decorate Buying Tickets kinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 457 59 39. Trains to and from cakes. Speaking Russian, English, and Dutch she bakes If you like torture, buy your train tickets from the ticket windows Pushkin, Pavlovsk, Brest, Odessa, Smolensk, Kiev, Minsk, cupcakes and cakes to order, and organises cupcake- in the train stations. When choosing a cashier, ensure they are Praga, Warsaw, Tallin, Riga, Berlin, Dnepropetrovska, decorating courses. All cakes are hand-made using only not due to take a break in the next hour or two and don’t be Budapest, Vilnius. the finest and freshest ingredients filled with vanilla but- surprised to be pushed in on while in the queue. You can always ter cream and jam and covered with fondant icing. Her buy from a tourist or ticket agency for a less painful experience. cupcakes are elegant and sweet homemade treats and You can also buy online (although the booking pages are in Getting around are a festive addition to any party, special occasion or Russian) and collect your ticket from machines in the station. ordinary afternoon. Just check with Leonie as to what The official online booking site is www.rzd.ru. Don’t forget Where is the…? Gde…? Где…? you have in mind and she will do the rest for you. Made- to bring your passport with you as they need it to print you Is it far? Eta daleko? Это далеко? moiselle Cake will teach you how to color, roll and shape passport number on the ticket and hold your reservation. Right/left Napravo/nalevo Направо/налево the icing in her cupcake-decorating courses (990Rbl per Straight ahead Pryamo Прямо person, minimum of 3 people) and holds cupcake parties Ticket office Kassa Касса for from 4-8 children (6+years), so treat your little one to Buses Open/closed Otkryto/zakryto Открыто/ one of the sweetest parties around (550Rbl per child). City Bus Station Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 36, MObvodno- закрыто Everything is provided, including four cupcakes for each go kanal, tel. (+7) 812 766 57 77, www.avokzal.ru Tickets Entrance/exit Vkhod/Vykhod Вход/выход child to decorate. Treats and cakes from 750Rbl. Orders for domestic and international buses.QOpen 06:30 - 23:30. Push/pull Ot sebya/k sebe От себя/к себе can be picked up in the Elizarovskaya district or delivered Ecolines Podyezdnoy per. 3, Pushkinskaya, tel. (+7) Ticket Bilet Билет for a fee of 600Rbl. 812 325 21 52, www.ecolines.ru QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Return (ticket) Tuda i obratno Туда и обратно M Entrance Vkhod Вход запрещен Mademoiselle Cake tel. (+7) 905 219 76 01, Eurolines Russia Mitrofanyevskoe shosse 2-1, Balti- forbidden zapreshchyon www.mademoiselle-cake.jimdo.com iskaya, tel. (+7) 812 441 37 57, www.eurolines.ru. Daily No smoking Ne kurit Не курить buses to Tallinn and Riga.QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 54 GETTING AROUND GETTING AROUND 55

Street Register

1-28-ya liniya Grivtsova per. D-3 Mayakovskogo ul. E-2/E-3 Spassky per. D-3 B-2/B-3/C-2/C-3 Inzhenernaya ul. E-3 Mendeleevskaya liniya C-2 Sredniy pr. (V0) B-2/B-3/C-2 Admiralteisky pr. D-3 Isaakievskaya pl. D-3 Mikhailovskaya ul. D-3 Starorusskaya ul. F-3 Alexandra Nevskogo most F-3 Iskusstv pl. D-3 Millionnaya ul. D-2 Stolyarny per. D-3 Angliskaya nab. C-3 Italyanskaya ul. D-3/D-4 Moskovsky pr. D-3/D-4 Stremyannaya ul. E-3 Anichkov most E-3 Kadetskaya liniya C-2 Moiky reky nab. C-3/D-2/D-3 Suvorovsky pr. F-2/F-3 Arsenalnaya nab. E-2 Kamennoostrovsky pr. D-1 Muchnoy per. D-3 Sverdlovskaya nab. F-1/F-2 Bakunina pr. F-3 Karavannaya ul. E-3 Mytninskaya nab. С-2/D-2 Tavricheskaya ul. F-2 Baskov per. E-2 Kazanskaya ul. D-3 Nekrasova ul. E-2 Chaikovskogo ul. E-2 Belinskogo ul. E-2 Kirochnaya ul. E-2/F-2 Nevsky pr. D-3/E-3/F-3 Teatralnaya pl. C-3 Birzhevaya liniya C-2 Kolokolnaya ul. E-3 Ostrovskogo pl. E-3 Troitsky most D-2 Blagoveshchensky most C-2 Konnogvardeysky bul. C-3 Pestelya ul. E-2 Tuchkov most C-2 Blokhina ul. C-2 Kovensky per. E-2 Petrovskaya nab. D-2 Tverskaya ul. F-2 Bol. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Krasnogo Tekstilshchika ul. Pirogovskaya nab. E-1/E-2 Universitetskaya nab. Bol. Morskaya ul. C-3/D-3 F-2 Pochtamtskaya ul. C-3 C-2/C-3 Bol. Podyacheskaya ul. D-3 Kronverkskaya nab. D-2 Poltavskaya ul. F-3 Vladimirsky pr. E-3 Bolsheokhtinsky most F-2 Kronversky pr. D-1 Pushkinskaya ul. E-3 Vosstaniya ul. E-2/E-3 Bolshoy pr. (PS) C-1/C-2 Kutuzova nab. D-2/E-2 Radishcheva ul. E-2/E-3 Vosstaniya pl. E-3 Bolshoy pr. (VO) B-3/C-2 Lermontovsky pr. C-3/C-4 Razyezzhaya ul. E-3 Voznesensky pr. D-3 Chernyshevskogo pr. E-2 Letny sad D-2 Rimskogo-Korsakova ul. Zagorodny pr. D-3/D-4/E-3 Chkalovsky pr. C-1 Leitenanta Shmidta nab. C-3 C-3/C-4/D-3 Zhukovskogo ul. E-3 Degtyarnaya ul. F-3 Ligovsky pr. E-3/E-4 Robespyera nab. E-2 Dekabristov ul. C-3/D-3 Liteiny most E-2 Rubinshteina ul. E-3 Dostoevskogo ul. E-3 Liteiny pr. E-2/E-3 Ryleeva ul. E-2 Dumskaya ul. D-3 Lomonosova ul. D-3/E-3 Sadovaya ul. E-2/E-3 Dvortsovaya nab. D-2 Makarova nab. C-2 Sampsonievsky most D-1 Abbreviations Efimova ul. D-3 Mal. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Sapyorny per. E-2 Ul. – Ulitsa Furshtatskaya ul. E-2 Mal. Morskaya ul. D-3 Shpalernaya ul. E-2/F-2 Pr. – Prospekt Galernaya ul. C-3 Mal. Posadskaya D-1 Shvedsky per. D-2 Pl. – Ploshchad Glinki ul. C-3 Mal. Sadovaya E-3 Sinopskaya nab. F-3 Bul. – Bulvar Goncharnaya ul. E-3 Maly pr. (PS) C-1 Smolnaya nab. F-2 Per. – Pereulok Gorokhovaya ul. D-3 Maly pr. (VO) B-1 Solyanoy per. E-2 Kan. – Kanal Grafsky per. E-3 Manezhnaya pl. E-3 Sotsialisticheskaya ul. E-3 Nab. – Naberezhnaya Griboedova kan. nab. Marata ul. E-3 Sovetskaya 1-ya - 9-ya ul. Bol. – Bolshaya C-3/C-4/D-2/D-3 Marsovo pole D-2 E-3/F-2/F-3 Mal. – Malaya

Advertise on this map! Call: This map gives you an overview of the city and helps with general orientation. (+7) 812 448 88 65 For more detail, pick up our St. Petersburg In Your Pocket Mini-Guide with the full version of this map, plus essential listings for what to do and see, plus where to eat and drink.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 Mosque Northern-Europe’s biggest mosque, near the Cruiser Avrora The battle ship, anchored off the Peter and Paul Fortress, is a place of worship for up to banks of Petrograd Side, has become somewhat of a 5,000 Muslims. Although officially 300,000 followers Soviet shrine. This is because blank shots fired from of the prophet Mohammed live in St. Petersburg, the the Aurora are said to have been the trigger for the mosque is almost never full. It was built in 1913 and is revolution of 1917. The ship was sunk during WWII, to the northernmost mosque in the world. During Soviet protect it from German bombing, and, in 1958, it was times medicines were stored here. made into a museum. 58 RUSSIA MOSCOW 59

History

9th Century: Slavic people from Ukraine and Belarus migrate into Russia, founding Veliky Novgorod, converting to Christianity, and adopting the Cyrillic alphabet. 10th – 15th Centuries: Golden Age of Kievan Rus con- tinues until the Mongol descendants of Ghenghis Khan invade. Ivan the Great comes to power in 1462. 17th Century: Times of Troubles 1603-1613: the Swedes and Poles invade. Russia acquires new Siberian territory. First Romanov is elected Tsar. 1703: Peter the Great founds St. Petersburg, which becomes the new Russian capital in 1712 1762 – 1796: German princess Catherine the Great mar- ries her way into the Russian royal family and launches a Introduction program of legislative and educational reform. Russia is undisputedly the world’s biggest country. Its sheer 1812: Alexander I defeats Napoleon on Russian soil. size guarantees that no other country even comes in at a 1861: Alexander II emancipates Russia’s serfs. Fast-paced Moskva is Russia’s political, historical and close second. While most visitors primarily make visits to 1914: WWI begins; there are enormous losses, food business capital and a magnet for the adventurous and The Kremlin the two capitals – Moscow and St. Petersburg – the country shortages and widespread unrest. St. Petersburg is ambitious from across the country and further afield. In Within the world-famous red walls of Moscow’s mighty Kremlin has much more to offer. quickly renamed Petrograd to sound less German. all senses, this mega city of more than 12 million inhabit- nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, Bordering 16 countries, it is 17,075,400 square kilometres 1917 – 1924: Following the February and October Revo- ants is a melting-pot and its outstanding dining scene and ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov large with a population of 143 million and a territory that lutions of 1917, Lenin’s Bolshevik Party takes control of vibrant nightlife reflects its cosmopolitan population. A city imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet modernism. Once inside encompasses nine time zones and 83 regions, so one Russia. Tsar Nicholas II and his family are murdered in 1918. of contrasts, Moscow’s busy streets all bear witness to the Kremlin you will be ushered towards Cathedral Square which naturally can sometimes feel overwhelmed by the sheer choice Moscow becomes the capital again. Russia is plunged into Russia’s turbulent history and dynamic future and while it’s is surrounded by four medieval churches dating back to the of sites on offer in such an enormous country. But, it goes a bloody civil war. St. Petersburg is renamed Petrograd and not for the faint-hearted, the Russian capital is a cultural 15th Century as well as the grand Ivan the Great’s Bell Tower. without saying that while many of the most exciting events after Lenin dies in 1924, Leningrad. experience not to be missed. in any given country occur in their capital cities, its soul often 1934: The worst period of Stalin’s terror begins; it lasts The Kremlin Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky lies elsewhere. This is especially true in Russia. until 1941. Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. Q Open Russia features ancient towns filled with architectural 1941 – 1945: Germany attacks Russia on June 22 and Red Square 10:00 - 17:00, closed Thu. Admission to the Kremlin Cathedral ensembles and churches completing visually fantastic the Great Patriotic War begins. After sustaining heavy The centre of Moscow and indeed the heart of Russia, Red Square 100-350Rbl. Tickets for the Kremlin Armoury 700Rbl landscapes, quaint and calm towns located on the banks of losses, Russia begins to push German-forces back in Square has seen it all. From the mass executions of Peter (seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30). All tickets must be enormous rivers, and enough natural beauty – forests, lakes, 1943. Germany surrenders in 1945. the Great’s day to the huge military parades started by Stalin, bought at the ticket offices outside the Kremlin walls. and mountains – to satisfy anyone looking for a break from 1953: Stalin dies. It’s estimated that 20 million people not to mention the looting of Napoleon’s troops, the protests the hustle and bustle of city life. died as a result of his purges, camps and forced famines. of Perestroika and a certain Paul McCartney. Every stone of Although the level of development in provincial towns is still In 1954, Krushchev succeeds him. every building here has a story or two to tell. Standing proud not on pace with the largest cities, but that is also part of the 1961: Yuri Gagarin becomes the first man in space. at the top of Red Square is the iconic St. Basil’s Cathedral adventure. It is here that one can experience how average 1979: The Soviets invade Afghanistan, and in opposi- topped by a swirl of fantastically coloured domes. At the other Russians live and imagine the past, present, and future of tion, 64 countries boycott the 1980 Moscow Summer end you will find the State History museum which details their country. Summer is a wondrous time to make a visit the Olympics. the long and turbulent history of the nation. Shopaholics will sun comes out of its slumber, and the plethora of holidays 1985: Gorbachev becomes General Secretary of the delight in strolling round the beautiful 19th Century arcades guarantee that there will be plenty of special events and Communist Party and calls for reforms including per- of the GUM department store whilst the Red Square ice celebrations on offer. estroika (restructuring) and glasnost (openness). rink is the perfect place to let off some steam whilst enjoying In each subsequent issue we will select a few destinations 1991 – 1999: Yeltsin becomes the first elected presi- the magnificent view. within striking distance of the city’s capitals that make dent of the Russian Federation in June. Economic crisis excellent detours into the beauty and wonder of provincial and instability ensues with rampant inflation and privati- GUM Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. (+7) 495 788 Russia. Some can be enjoyed as one-day getaways, while zation shaking the country. 43 43, www.gum.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. others are full weekend trips. 1999 – 2008: Native Petersburger, Vladimir Putin be- St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) Red We would argue that no trip to Russia is fully complete comes President in March 2000. Russia becomes more Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, without a visit to a provincial city, whether it be one of the stable and prosperous, thanks to gas and oil exports. www.saintbasil.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission wonders of the Golden Ring cities, or one of the ancient 2008 – present: Medevdev becomes the third President 50-250Rbl. Russian settlements, such as Pskov or Veliky Novgorod. of the Russian Federation in May, but after 4 years Vladi- State History Museum Red Square 1, MOkhotny It was in these towns that the idea of Russia was first mir Putin once more takes the Presidential seat. Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Q Open enunciated and enacted. Of course, a wider selection of 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission cities can be found on our website. 60-440Rbl. In this issue we have selected Moscow, plus four provincial cities. Moscow, of course, needs no introduction. The other four cities are: Kazan, the capital of Tatarstan, Getting There and the host of the sporting event, the Summer 2013 Universiade, Veliky Novgorod, one of Russia’s early Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow every day trading settlements with a beautifully restored Kremlin, from Moskovsky vokzal, so there’s little excuse for not nearby Staraya Russa, an old town that served as a making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can summer getaway for Russian writer Dostoevsky and Nizhny also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train, Novgorod, Russia’s fifth largest city located on the banks which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you of the mighty Volga river. there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at In Moscow please look for our print guide in hotels or one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the aeroexpress check us out online and download our free iPhone app. train which brings you right to the centre. at: www.inyourpocket.com/russia/moscow.

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 60 MOSCOW Veliky Novgorod 61

Russian Art For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the famous ‘Russian soul’ the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to start as it is the world’s number one museum of Russian art. The Tretyakov Gallery is spread across two separate buildings about a kilometre apart from each other. The ‘old’ Tretyakov covers Russian art from the 12th to 19th Centuries, begin- ning with exquisite and mysterious icons and ending with the politically charged and prescient canvases of Russia’s favourite realist master, Ilya Repin. The Tretyakov on Krymsky Val houses the museum’s enlightening 20th Century collec- tion which reveals the Russian revolution and the Soviet era as the long and complex process it was, full of difficult and conflicting attitudes, ideas and stages.

Tretyakov Gallery Lavrushinsky per.10, MTretyakovs- kaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 70-360Rbl. English audio guide 350Rbl. PU

Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val Krymsky Val 10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, www. If you are not afraid of heights it’s also worth climbing up the tretyakovgallery.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Veliky Novgorod Kukui tower for a view over the town and surrounding country- Admission 100-360Rbl. English audio guide 350Rbl. PU Founded in 859, Veliky or Great Novgorod is generally touted side. QEntrance to the Kremlin is free as is entrance to the as ‘the birthplace of Russia’. It is by modern standards a very Cathedral. Entrance to the museum and tower costs extra. small town. After its heyday in the Middle Ages, Moscow, St. Literature and Theatre Petersburg and Kyiv took over as the leading cities in Russian Ilmen lake Many of Russia’s best writers have been inspired by culture and Novgorod became somewhat a backwater. This It is well worth making the short journey out of town to visit Moscow and the homes of Chekhov, Tolstoy, Mayakovsky is no bad thing however as it has meant that much of the the open-air Vitoslavitsy wooden architecture museum and and Bulgakov have been preserved as museums. Moscow town and surrounding countryside has been saved from the the neighbouring Yurievsky monastery which has an envi- was also the home of one of the greatest theatre direc- blight of industrialisation and communist construction. Veliky able position right on the banks of the Ilmen lake. QTo get tors of modern times Konstantin Stanislavsky and the Novgorod is now a world heritage listed site and alongside its there take bus number 7 or 7a and get off at the monastery. theatre which he led is one of Moscow’s best for ballet, famous Kremlin there are also more than 50 churches and The journey should take about 20 minutes. Entrance to the dance and opera. Finally of course there’s no bigger name monasteries in the region to be explored. monastery is free. in Russian theatre than the Bolshoi which has just been Luxury Trains to Moscow spectacularly renovated. Sightseeing Veliky Novgorod Kremlin If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the Enjoy the great outdoors The heart of Novgorod has always been the Kremlin, which capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The Moscow has the most parkland of any city in Russia and is known locally by its ancient name ‘Detinets’. The first cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every night during the winter months they are turned into a winter sports records of fortifications on this site date back to 1044, and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being wonderland. For the chance to speed skate for kilometers although back then most of the Kremlin was probably made shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already along specially dedicated paths get down to Gorky Park, of wood. The current walls and towers of the Kremlin were been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and for a historic view try the rink on Red Square and to enjoy completed between 1484 and 1490, after the previous all round the carriages are spotless. Hungry? Lucky you! Moscow’s most historic skating pond its many mulled ones had collapsed into the river. In recent years, the whole Every cabin has a pile of complimentary snacks such as wine stands and live music join the crowds at the romantic of the fortifications, as well as most of the buildings inside bread, pate and cheese, fruits, yoghurts and waffles Patriarch’s Ponds. the Kremlin walls, have been completely restored. Inside the for when you get the midnight munchies. Hot breakfast Kremlin the most noteworthy sights include the impressive and coffee is brought to your room in the morning and St. Sophia Cathedral, the Novgorod history museum and the if at any moment during the trip you experience some Hotels huge Millennium of Russia monument. problems you can call the train attendant from the Comrade Hostel Ul. Maroseika 11, 3rd floor (go under comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you arch to the left of the playground to find building en- want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, trance), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 31 26, www. Getting There it’s worth the money. comradehostel.com. Trains leave Moskovsky vokzal (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya Ul. Kalanchevskaya at 00:20 and arrive in Moscow at 09:00. For reserva- By train: There are many trains a day travelling to Veliky 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, Novgorod in around three hours. From St. Petersburg’s tions call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www. www.moscow.hilton.com. hhhhh megapolis-te.ru Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) trains depart Hotel Ermitage Durasovsky per.7, bldg. 1, MKurskaya, at 07:11 (Lastochka express), 08:12 and 17:00. From Chkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 19 19, www.ermitage- Vitebsky station (metro Pushkinskaya) trains depart at hotel.ru. hhh 07:40. Trains return to St. Petersburg at 06:15, 08:05, Marriott Moscow Tverskaya Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya- 18:45 (to Moskovsky station) and 18:27 (to Vitebsky Yamskaya 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, station). www.marriottmoscowtverskaya.com. hhhh Mamaison All-Suites Spa Hotel Pokrovka Ul. Pok- By bus: In addition there are also numerous buses rovka 40, bldg. 2, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 57 (journey time approx 3.5 hours) a day leaving from the bus 77, www.pokrovka-moscow.com. hhhhh station at Obvodnogo kan. 36. Buses to St. Petersburg Peking Hotel Ul. Bol. Sadovaya 5, MMayakovs- run hourly until 21:30. The journey takes around 3,5 hours kaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 09 00, www.hotelpeking. and costs 370Rbl. ru. hhhh

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 62 VELIKY NOVGOROD Staraya Russa 63

Dostoevsky himself was deeply religious and the church Eating and drinking he attended here, the Grigoryevsky church, is just one of Casa del Mar Ul. Velikaya 14a (on the river behind the a number of charming medieval churches of all shapes theatre), tel. (+7) 8162 987 000, www.casa-del-mar. and colours that the town can boast. The town’s Spaso- ru. Getting out to this trendy boat café/bar/restaurant/club Preobrazhensky Monastery also has a few fine examples concept is quite a mission and the view through the boat’s of small wooden-domed churches. The surrounding coun- windows is nothing to get excited about. Better stick to the tryside, so far removed from busy St Petersburg, moved internal view of over-dressed rich locals sipping on cocktails Dostoevsky - he gives Ivan Karamazov the line, “I love the and dining on the usual European/sushi menu favourites. sticky leaves in spring, the blue sky - that’s all it is. It’s not The food is not the best you’ll eat in Novgorod but if you’re a matter of intellect or logic, it’s loving with one’s inside, searching for a safe Friday night experience with young with one’s stomach”. upwardly mobile locals it’s probably a reliable place. Q Open Sun - Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. Dostoevsky House Museum in Staraya Russa PTALESW Sightseeing Staraya Russa, nab. Dostoevskogo 42, tel. (+7) 816 Old Russian legend tells us of two brothers Rus and Sloven, 525 14 77, www.novgorodmuseum.ru. This modest Khoroshye Lyudi Ul. Meretskova-Volosova 1/1, tel. who, four millennia ago, set off from the Black Sea to found a green and white wooden building stands on the riverbank (+7) 8162 73 08 79, www.gonicepeople.ru. Once you’ve new homeland; Sloven created Veliky Novgorod, whilst Rus’s and was the first house Dostoevsky himself ever bought. been to this place you won’t want to eat anywhere else - it’s town on the other side of Lake Ilmen went on to become The museum has restored and preserved the Dostoevskys‘ just streets ahead of the other more pedestrian dining options Staraya Russa. The town, of course, isn’t quite that old, hav- dacha as it once was, with the ‚old fashioned, heavy red in sleepy Novgorod. Choose from a fancy restaurant area ing been founded somewhere around the 10th century, but wood furniture and the surroundings‘ in which they, in Anna with open kitchen, the bar or family friendly cafe to settle in is nonetheless one of Russia’s oldest cities. Dostoevskaya‘s words, ‚lived so warmly and cosily‘, along and don’t worry, you can see the Kremlin from wherever you Its architecture reflects its heydays as a major player in the with many of the great writer‘s books, photographs and choose. The menu is a pick and mix European selection of salt trade and wealthy city of the Novgorod Republic, and other possessions. salads and grilled meats and fish. Staff are lovely. QOpen again as a fashionable 19th century spa resort. In tune with 09:00 - 24:00. €. PAW urbanisation in general, the town’s population is shrinking; but Polist Hotel Staraya Russa, ul. Engelsa 20, tel. (+7) this is a receding tide that Staraya Russa has seen more than 81652 375 47, www.polist-tour.ru. This hotel in Staraya Napoli Studencheskaya ul. 21/43, tel. (+7) 8162 636 once before and one that may yet turn, whilst in the meantime Russa is named after one of the town‘s three rivers. This 307, www.napoli-restaurant.ru. Ok so you probably didn’t the town is a sleepy slice of Russia’s history. Western-standard hotel is generally considered to be the come to Veliky Novgorod to eat Italian food, but trust us this It has always attracted guests from far and wide. Sometimes best in town. Its restaurant is also among the best in Staraya is one of the best dining options in town. The staff are polite these were less than welcome visitors, in the form of Swedish Russa. Though nothing fancy to look at from the outside, it and helpful, the food is fresh and the atmosphere is neither armies, marauding gangs in the Time of Troubles before the looks out onto the city‘s historical centre, which is probably touristy nor provincial. As well as good pastas and wines, they Romanovs took power, or Hitler’s forces who nearly razed the way round you‘d rather have it. Each room has all mod also have a real stone oven in which they bake their excellent the city to the ground. In other more peaceful times of the cons and, shiny frilly bedsheets aside, is fully up to modern fresh bread and pizzas. It’s a bit far out so you will probably the city these were aristocrats come to drink the town’s standards and well shot of any Soviet hangover. Q47 rooms need to go there by taxi or bus 4, 8, 8a or 20. Very convenient rejuvenating spring water. (Room prices start at 1,400Rbl). PTAKSwW for those staying in the Park Inn hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Today, it draws in visitors who seek to trace the footsteps of Where to stay €€. PTALEBSW one of Russia’s greatest writers, Fyodor Mikhailovich Dos- Park Inn Veliky Novgorod Ul. Studencheskaya 2, toevsky. On the recommendation of friends he and his wife tel. (+7) 816 294 09 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel- Yurievskoe Podvorie Yurievskoe shosse 6a, tel. (+7) chose Staraya Russa as the spot for their summer dacha. velikynovgorod. Novgorod‘s only four star hotel is run by the 8162 946 066, www.tk-podvorie.ru. Seated inside what Here, Dostoevsky could escape the suffocating streets of Park Inn brand and it‘s a definite step above the rest. Rooms looks like a fairytale Russian wooden hut, you’ll be served Petersburg and the temptation to gamble, an addiction that are spacious, staff meet the professional Park Inn standard and excellent blini, pelmeni (dumplings) and borsch by angelic had drained his finances and health. the Beer restaurant down in the basement is one of the only looking wait staff in traditional costume. The place is very Both of them soon fell in love with the spot: the quiet streets, riv- good places to eat in this sleepy town and there‘s also an ‚art popular with tour groups, which brings down the rustic aroma ers and meadows gave the writer the space he needed to write, nightclub‘. You can also enjoy the large SPA zone with indoor a little, but they do offer a lot of Novgorodian specialities such whilst the town’s buildings and characters served as inspira- pool, Russian banya, Turkish bath, Finnish and herbal saunas. as local soup recipes and ‘sbiten’ (a hot drink made of various tion. His masterpiece The Brothers Karamazov was written in Access to all this is included in the price as well as to the children‘s herbs and spices) which are definitely worth making the effort their small house here and set in an almost identical fictional entertainment centre. To get there from the city centre take bus for. A very good value place to eat before or after visiting the town. On the opposite bank from the Dostoevskys’ house is No4, 8a or 20. Q225 rooms (Prices start at 4,200Rbl). Extra Vitoslavlitsy museum, Yuriev monastery and surrounding a building known as ‘Grushenka’s House’, so named after the bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6FLGKDCW hhhh countryside. Also has a mini-hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. character in the Brothers Karamazov, for whom the house’s €. PTAULEGBSW former occupant Agrippina Menshova supposedly served as a Volkhov Hotel Ul. Predtechenskaya 24, tel. (+7) 8162 prototype. Though today it is still a private house, postmen will 225 505, www.hotel-volkhov.ru. A great option for a short still bring here envelopes addressed to ‘Grushenka’s House’. sightseeing trip or longer business trip as it’s one of the most central hotels in town and just 5 minutes walk from the Kremlin. The rooms, although a little frilly, look far more cared Getting There for than many other hotels in Novgorod and the whole place has a lot more of an international feel than you’d expect in a From St. Petersburg: small Russian town. There’s plenty of facilities including one of There are numerous buses (journey takes 5.5 hours) the only saunas in town. Q129 rooms (Room prices start at a day leaving from the bus station at Obvodnogo kan. 2,200Rbl). Extra bed 850Rbl. HALGKDCW hhh 36 (metro Baltiskaya) at 14:30 and 16:30 (daily) and at 08:45 (only Fri, Sat, Sun). From Moskovsky station (metro Pl. Vosstaniya) you can Krasnaya Izba Tourist Information Office take a nighttrain, it departs at 00:40 and arrives to The lovely girls at Krasnaya Izba can provide you with Staraya Russa at 10:02. advice on just about everything to do in Novgorod. They have a 24hrs. hotline that you can call if you still find that From Veliky Novgorod: you are constantly lost. Tel. (+7) 8162 998 686. Central There are numerous buses a day leaving from the central office at Sennaya pl. 5. www.visitnovgorod.ru bus station at Oktyabrskaya ul. 1 (trip takes 2 hours).

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 64 KAZAN KAZAN 65

Exhibition Hall Manege Kremlin, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 80 67, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. This Eating and drinking exhibition hall is located in the Kremlin’s former stables and Beer Lozha Ul. Pushkina 5, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. regularly hosts photography and painting exhibitions from (+7) 843 292 24 36, www.ofsrussia.ru. A large Bavarian local artists. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. style beerhouse serving quality brews by the litre and German sausages and other meaty fare on huge wooden platters. It can Hermitage Kazan Centre Kremlin, MKremlevskaya, get loud at the weekend, especially when the live bands kick in, tel. (+7) 843 567 80 32, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. Opened but there’s also often the chance to win free beers and other with the help of the Hermitage museum, this cultural centre prizes. The heavy wooden décor is complemented by quirky regularly plays host to historical and art exhibitions brought extra details such as light fittings made from beer kegs while the especially to Kazan from St. Petersburg’s great Hermitage large windows ensure Beer Lozha maintains a light and modern museum. Until 27 May 2012 the centre is showing a stunning edge. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. PAEW exhibition of more than 200 paintings, drawings, sculptures and other artifacts from Spain dating from the 15th to the Dom Tatarskoy Kulinary Ul. Baumana 31/12, 20th centuries. Names such as Velazquez and Goya feature MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 292 35 20, domtk. and alongside the stunning art, there’s also a large dedica- ru. Traditional Tatar cuisine in plush surroundings resplendent tion to traditional Spanish crafts such as lace-making, carved with bold Tatar colours and patterns. Popular with Kazan’s bone, bronze and silver artistry, weaponry, pottery and business community and those in government. QOpen glasswork. QOpen 10:00 - 17:45, Fri 10:00 - 16:45. Closed 11:00 - 23:00. PAEW Mon. Tickets 50-120Rbl. Sultan Kebab Ul. Baumana 74, MPloshchad Tukaya, Qul Sharif Mosque Kremlin, MKremlevskaya, tel. tel. (+7) 843 292 26 75. It’s certainly not the most exotic Kazan Kazan Kremlin (+7) 843 567 80 01, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. In the 16th cuisine in Kazan and the quality is just above fast food, but Popularly referred to as Russia’s third capital, Kazan is the city The pride of Kazan is its impressive Kremlin which boasts Century prior to the invasion of Kazan a mosque stood here you could also do far worse for these prices. Sultan Kebab is (as accords their official slogan) ‘Where Europe meets Asia’. both a beautiful new mosque and an Orthodox cathedral. which was named after its leading teacher Qol Sharif. Qol in fact a Turkish joint although local Tartar dishes also feature As the capital of the Russian Republic of Tatarstan, Kazan The Kremlin is also the centre of the Tatar government and Sharif died alongside his students trying to save the mosque alongside the usual kebabs dripping in garlic sauce. Service mixes a rich Muslim Tatar culture - with its own language and houses the official residence of the President of the Republic from the Tsar’s forces, but unfortunately it was destroyed in is quick and you can watch everything being freshly grilled on government - with Western Slavic influences and is famous for of Tatarstan. Other highlights of the Kremlin include the 1522 and for centuries the site remained empty. Following the the barbeque. Take note there is also a dining room upstairs being a particularly religiously tolerant and friendly city. The Hermitage Centre which has regular exhibitions from St. fall of the Soviet Union, with the help of many other counties which is much less drafty. PW pride of Kazan is its impressive Kremlin which boasts both a Petersburg’s Hermitage Museum. You can also climb the including Saudi Arabia and UAE, the mosque was rebuilt, albeit mosque and an Orthodox cathedral and in recent years the Kremlin walls behind the mosque, where there are also many in a modern style. The impressive new mosque was finally whole city has been beautified and restored in preparation vendours selling local souvenirs. inaugurated in 2005 when Kazan celebrated its millennium for the 2013 Summer Universiade. For those looking to see and now stands as a prominent symbol of the city, rightly where European and Asian Russia meet and enjoy a glimpse Annunciation Cathedral Kremlin, MKremlevskaya, recognised as one of Kazan’s most worthy sights as well as into one of the country’s most vibrant non-Slavic republics, tel. (+7) 843 567 80 73, www.kazan-kremlin.ru. Erected Europe’s largest mosque. The Qol Sharif largely functions as there’s probably no better starting point than Kazan. between 1556 and 1562, this is Kazan’s most important a museum although thousands of Muslims do gather here to The undoubted must see place in Kazan is the UNESCO cathedral and the home of the holiest copy of the Our Lady pray on major religious holidays. listed Kremlin and in particular its famous mosque and the of Kazan icon, which was presented to the city by Pope John Hermitage Kazan centre. After you’ve done the Kremlin make Paul II in 2005. The cathedral, which was built in a style sure to take a walk down Ulitsa Kremlevskaya to admire the similar to that of the Assumption cathedral in the Moscow Where to stay city’s 19th Century mansions, pop into the stunning Peter Kremlin, was destroyed many times by fire over the centuries Courtyard by Marriott Kazan Kremlin Ul. Karla and Paul Cathedral along the way and then enjoy a lazy and following the Bolshevik revolution it suffered yet more Marksa 6, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 40 00, stroll along the pedestrianised Ulitsa Baumana which is full damage as the Soviets destroyed the bell tower and other www.kazancourtyard.ru. New 4 star international hotel of cafes, bars and restaurants to rest up in. Download our ecclesiastical buildings which surrounded it. In the 1990s sitting directly in the shadow of Kazan’s fabulous Kremlin. Instant Guide at kazan.inyourpocket.com. concerted restoration work began and in summer 2005 Dining facilities include the Mediterranean grill restaurant and the cathedral once again began to accept worshipers as it a stunning roof top bar with a bird’s eye view over the Kremlin returned to its function as a working place of worship. The the river. Q150 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl). Photo by Pavel Hellsing Getting There interior painting and iconostasis are mostly modern although PTHAUFGBKW hhhh many of the icons which were donated to the cathedral date Nightlife By Train: From St. Petersburg there is only one direct back centuries. Be sure to pass behind the Cathedral to Ibis Kazan Centre Hotel Pravo-Bulachnaya ul. Coyote Ugly Ul. Baumana 13, MKremlevskaya, tel. (+7) train a day which leaves from Moskovsky station (metro admire the spectacular view over the river. 43/1, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 567 58 00, 843 292 45 08, coyoteugly.ru/kaz. The third bar in Russia Pl. Vosstaniya). The journey takes approximately 22 hours www.ibishotel.com. Great budget destination in a very from the American chain famous for its gorgeous girls who have and leaves St. Petersburg at 16:13 arriving in Kazan the central location. Kazan’s main walking street filled with fast and furious skills both behind the bar and on it when they next day at 14:02. From Moscow there are six trains a restaurants and bars (ulitsa Baumana) is just around the get up to pour tequila shots. As the brand demands the buzz is day which travel to Kazan and beyond. The journey takes corner and the hotel itself looks out over one of the city’s very much roadhouse Americana, all loud rock music, bourbon between 11 and 14 hours depending on which train you canals. The interior is the signature light and breezy Ibis and cowboy boots. Given the sorry state of the competition in take and all trains leave Moscow in the evening and arrive with dining in the brand’s mainstay European restaurant Kazan, Coyote Ugly is generally a safe bet as the best place for in Kazan in the early morning. Trains leave from Kazansky Sud i Cie. Q155 rooms (Room prices start at 2,000Rbl). a big night out. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PAE station (metro Komsomolskaya). PHA6ULKW hhh Cuba Libre Ul. Baumana 58, MPloshchad Tukaya, By Plane: Russian airlines Aeroflot, Transaero and S7 Park Inn Kazan Ul. Lefgasta 9-11, MPloshchad Tukaya, tel. (+7) 843 253 55 32, www.cubakazan.ru. A genuine are the main (and safest) airlines offering international tel. (+7) 843 235 23 54, www.kazan.parkinn.ru. Large Cuban bar hidden in an alley just off Kazan’s main street. Retro transfers to Kazan. Air France and Etihad Air also offer and colourful, this hotel wears its Park Inn standard primary postcards from Havana and pictures of Fidel and co. plaster flights to Kazan via Moscow. Flights from Moscow take colour scheme with pride. Dining is in the RBG Stone Grill the walls and the waitresses follow the trend by wearing cute around 1 hour 20 minutes and the airport is a 30 minutes restaurant while cocktails are also served in the lounge. communist outfits. The menu is filled with a Cuban and Mexican drive from the city centre. Taxis from/to the airport should The location is not entirely central although it is close to the mix of dishes and of course cocktails are a hit. At the weekends cost around 800Rbl. There are no direct flights to Kazan widely expanding Vakhtikovsky area where much of Kazan’s this is the hottest bar for dancing in (and by far the tiniest) and from St. Petersburg although all of the above mentioned older Islamic influenced architecture is located. Q151 rooms entrance is usually restricted due to the extremely small floor companies offer connecting flights via Moscow. (Room prices start at 3,500Rbl). PHA6UFL� space, so get down early, or try flashing some Spanish at the GKW hhhh door. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAE

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com June - July 2013 66 NIZHNY NOVGOROD

It may not have Moscow’s Red Square or St. Petersburg’s Grand Hotel Oka Premium (+7) 831 425 94 23, Winter Palace, but Nizhny Novgorod still has some pretty www.en.hoteloka.ru. QRoom prices start at 4,800Rbl. fascinating places to visit. Nizhny’s small but ecclectic PW hhhh collection of museums and art galleries has something for Gorky Hostel Bol. Pokrovskaya ul. 5/6, tel. (+7) 831 everyone, and if you find yourself wanting more, there are 439 09 00, www.gorkiy-hostel.ru. Q Room prices start plenty of interesting places to visit outside the city too. Check at 490Rbl. PW out more online at nizhny-novgorod.inyourpocket.com. Hostel Bugrov Ul. Sovetskaya 20, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 831 416 14 68, www.bugrovhostel.ru. Q Room prices start at 400Rbl. PW Sightseeing Hostel Naberezhny Nizhne-Volzhskaya nab. 7/2, tel. The Kremlin, tel. (+7) 831 422 10 80, www.ngiamz.ru. (+7) 831 230 13 15, www.bereg-hostel.ru. Q Room Like any good Kremlin, Nizhny’s red brick edifice overlooking the prices start at 350Rbl. winding Volga would once have struck fear into the hearts of the baddies du jour. Even today, as it appears around the river bend to travellers arriving by boat, it is an impressive structure. Eating and drinking Unlike Moscow’s famous Kremlin it’s no fortress and the Bocconcino Ul. Alekseevskaya 10/16 (in Lobachevsky public can wander at will through its territories. It currently Plaza shopping centre), tel. (+7) 831 296 55 75, www. houses municipal government centres, two galleries, a church bocconcino.ru. Not the place to eat with your hands, al- and a war memorial, as well as small museums in some of the though the pizza tastes so good, you may really want to - the towers. But once, when cities were built on a different scale, dough is magic: thin crispy and light. This classy pizzeria’s it encircled the whole of Nizhny Novgorod and (on the whole) decor screams Russia, e.g. the bone and cream coloured faux kept them safe from the scary world of medieval Russia. The Tuscan interior, but the cuisine is pure Italy. The toppings are original structure was made from wood, but the ill-advised fresh and full of flavour. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PAW combination of open fires and a wooden city came to a somewhat inevitable conclusion when it burnt down in 1513. Tiffani Verkhnevolzhskaya nab. 8, tel. (+7) 831 419 It was then sensibly decided to make a stone version which 41 01, www.tiffanibar.ru. You can’t say ‘Nizhny Novgorod’ when it was completed looked much as it does today. And without ‘Volga’ and this is one of the best places from that means: a two kilometre wall, four metres thick, thirteen which to enjoy Nizhny’s enviable views of Russia’s national towers and chock full of artillery points - not something you river. The restaurant itself makes the most of this, with a want to get on the wrong side of. plush crescent of seating offering a panorama of the Volga The wrong side, in fact, was the Khanate of Kazan, nowadays and countryside beyond. Fresh seafood, simply prepared, just the next city along the Volga, back then locked in a bloody continues the aquatic theme, though be reassured, it’s and prolonged argument with Moscow. Nizhny’s convenient not actually sourced from the Volga’s murky waters; in fact position halfway between the two meant that it became Mos- it’s fresh from their aquarium. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. €€. cow’s ‘watch-city’, a title that came with no small risk. It suffered PTASW its fair share of attacks and sieges over the years, but proved pretty much invincible. This could be thanks to the Kremlin, or it could be thanks to its fearsome inhabitants, as legend has it. Getting There With the fall of Kazan, the Nizhny Novgorod Kremlin lost its strategic importance and fell gradually into disrepair. A num- By Plane: There are several flights every day leaving ber of facelifts over the present decade have helped return from all three of Moscow’s airports; they take just over it to something like its former glory. Nowadays you can stroll an hour and prices start from around 3,000Rbl. From around on its grass, or take a walk inside its towering walls and St. Petersburg there are typically two flights per day enjoy the view. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Admission from 60Rbl. that take up to two hours and cost upwards of 3,500Rbl.

By Train: From St. Petersburg the Volga train leaves Hotels and Hostels daily from Petersburg’s Moskovsky Vokzal at 17:15, ar- Ibis Nizhny Novgorod tel. (+7) 831 233 11 20, www. riving in Nizhny Novgorod at 8:35 the following morning. ibis.com. Modern and comfortable, as one would expect from It then leaves Nizhny at 18:25 and arrives back in St. the Ibis chain, and only a short walk to the centre. QRoom Petersburg at 9:43 the next day. prices start at 2,900Rbl. PW hhh

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com