Wind-Driven Waves Can Damage Shorelines

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

Wind-Driven Waves Can Damage Shorelines Tuesday, January 13, 2009 | Erie Times-News | GoErie.com | 3D Where to find marine forecasts, data, more By ANNA McCARTNEY is a useful forecasting system [email protected] for all users of the Great Lakes coastal waters who require real- Physical processes have a ma- time information and forecasts jor impact on environmental, of temperatures, currents, water chemical, and biological pro- levels, and waves. cesses and influence many oth- These forecasts provide Na- er types of user activities. Water tional Weather Service marine supply management, waste wa- forecasters with a significant ter management, power plant sit- source of information, which ings, shipping, recreational and should lead to considerable im- commercial boating and fishing, provements both in the accuracy shoreline erosion and redistri- and efficiency of marine fore- bution of sedimentary material casts for the Great Lakes. all rely on good forecasts. GLERL also has exceptional NOAA’s Great Lakes Environ- resources for teachers to make mental Research Laboratory Great Lakes data more acces- (GLERL) has a long history of sible and easy to use with their addressing a wide range of en- students. Great Lakes Water Data vironmental issues in the Great Sets for Teachers (http://people. Lakes and other coastal envi- emich.edu/srutherf/NOAA/) con- ronments. GLERL is the only tains real data extracted from NOAA research laboratory that on-going and historic GLERL has the breadth of scientific ex- research projects, including pertise to address complex Great temperature, dissolved oxygen Lakes ecosystem issues. GLERL and seiche data. CONTRIBUTED PHOTO research and programs provide Data is in a format that is easy important information to deci- to use in the classroom. Middle On Dec. 28, the power of waves fueled by steady winds broke up the ice dunes that were protecting the shoreline and created conditions for a sion-makers and others to help or high school students and seiche in Buffalo. Similar conditions on Jan. 30, 2008, caused high water level and waves of 12 to 16 feet, resulting in a record seiche that them make good choices. teachers can conduct their own caused flooding in Buffalo. All of GLERL’s long-range re- inquiries, support guided inqui- search is targeted toward pro- ries, demonstrate limnological ducing a suite of forecasts and concepts or just practice graph- forecasting capabilities of physi- ing, mapping and mathematics cal and ecological conditions that using real data. will advance an ecosystem-based Can you say ‘seiche?’ approach to management. ANNA McCARTNEY, The Great Lakes Coastal Fore- Newspaper in Education cast System, the GLCFS Web site, coordinator, can be reached by (www.glerl.noaa.gov/res/glcfs/) e-mail. Weather phenomenon creates dramatic effect on Lake Erie By ANNA McCARTNEY water level to rise on one side of cause of spray. Floodwaters inun- ing; the next day you could take a B Y T HE N UMBERS [email protected] the lake as it goes down on the op- dated the First Ward (west side) boat out,” Leslie said. posite side. The waves slosh back of the city of Buffalo, with entire A similar storm occurred on Theword“seiche”(pronounced and forth between shores of the neighborhoods under water. The Dec. 28 after a record-high tem- 14 saysh) may have no meaning for lake basin and with no warning, Lake Erie water level rose 11 feet perature of 67. The cold front hours you. But people who have experi- cause huge fluctuations where above its eight-foot flood stage for that whipped across the area that The period of a typical seiche across Lake Erie. For other lakes, the enced the phenomena know that the shoreline and harbor water over three hours. According to morning brought damaging winds period is shorter, for example, IN Lake Champlain IN upstate New it can cause death and destruc- levels can rise or fall by many the National Oceanic and Atmo- and created the right conditions Yo rk, it’s four hours; Scotland’s Loch Ness, about 30 MINutes. tion in moments. feet. spheric Administration, this was for another seiche. One of the greatest disasters in Most seiches go unnoticed and the second highest lake level on Winds, as high as 75 mph, Buffalo was caused by a seiche. never cause much damage in the record. wreaked havoc with the Buffalo It was produced by prolonged Great Lakes because they are rel- That same day in Erie, the Bills game and resulted in power 06/26/1954 strong winds pushing the water atively subtle and imperceptible, southwest winds blew steady at outages to thousands. Three duck A seiche 2.44 meters (8 feet) high and 40 KM (25 miles) wide hit toward that end of Lake Erie. It causing water levels on beaches 35 mph and gusted up to 54 mph hunters were rescued from the Chicago’s lakefront. Eight people were killed, most of whom were occurred at 11 p.m. on Oct. 18, to rise just a foot or less. throughout the day. As the water Barcelona Harbor when their swept into the water and drowned while fishing IN Montrose Harbor. 1844, when a wall of water 22 feet However, because Lake Erie is was pushed to the northeast, the duck boats were swamped by high quickly inundated the com- the shallowest of the Great Lakes, high water combined with 12-foot high winds, rain and waves. A sec- mercial and residential districts the effects of storm-driven waves waves and caused flooding on tion of Route 5 was closed near along the waterfront. Without are amplified and when the wind the peninsula and lifted docks Hamburg, N.Y., but fortunately 1890 warning, the water breached the blows from the southwest to the from their moorings. Harry Les- this time the water level in Buf- The year the terM seiche was first promoted by the Swiss hydrologist 14-foot sea wall and flooded the northeast, seiches are more dra- lie, park operations manager at falo did not reach a record high. François-Alphonse Forel who had observed the effect IN Lake waterfront. Seventy-eight people matic. Presque Isle State Park, said: The wicked winds that wreak Geneva, Switzerland. The word originates IN a Swiss French drowned that day, according to Another record seiche in Buf- “Presque Isle Bay filled up with havoc and cause seiches when dialect word that means “to sway bacK and forth.” newspaper accounts. When the falo happened on Jan. 30, 2008. five to six feet of water from one they whip across the waters of winds stopped, the water moved Sustained strong winds following of the strongest storms I had wit- Lake Erie ended 2008 much as SOURCE: www.fact-archive.com/encyclopedia/Seiche back in the direction from which the passage of a cold front caused nessed since I started working at they began — stirring up waves it came. the Lake Erie water level to rise the park in 1989.” that rip out sections of beach, A seiche occurs in an enclosed substantially. The high water lev- The power unleashed by the cause flooding and trigger dra- body of water such as a lake, bay els and waves of 12 to 16 feet re- waves and high water toppled matic rescues. or gulf. Like water sloshing back sulted in erosion of the lake shore ice dunes that had formed on the and forth in a bath tub, the water and significant flooding at the ex- lake side and broke up the ice on ANNA McCARTNEY, in the lake is pushed by strong treme eastern end of the lake. the bay, which had been dotted Newspaper in Education L EARN M ORE winds and rapid changes in at- Roads along the lake shore with anglers before the storm. coordinator, can be reached by mospheric pressure, causing the were water-covered or closed be- “One day you saw people ice fish- e-mail. What: Visiting scientist lecture, “The Coyotes of Presque Isle,” by Tracy Graziano When: Tonight at 7 p.m. Where: The ToM Ridge Environmental Center Wind-driven waves can damage shorelines For more information, contact: Jeanette Schnars at 835-6975 or visit www.RegSciConsort.com By ANNA McCARTNEY :7&)< 0+""<- What: Presque Isle After DarK program, “Night waLK at Erie Bluffs [email protected] :."2;% */ 2%" <&028);" *# *+") State Park” water that the wind has blown When: Saturday, Jan. 31, 6 to 8 p.m. If you are not sure how to get to Lake Erie is the shallowest of over. the Bluffs, meet the naturalist at the ToM Ridge Environmental the Great Lakes, reaching a max- :6&(" 2%" 4&)< %80 9'*4) Center; departure is at 5:30 p.m. Bring a flashlight. Dress imum depth of 210 feet in the over a given area. appropriately for the outdoors. The waLK will be about one mile long. eastern basin. The axis of Lake :782"/ <"+2%- Fore more information, contact: Brian Gula, environmental Erie runs from southwest to The greater each of the above education specialist, 217-9632 northeast, corresponding to the factors, the larger the waves. direction of prevailing winds. Waves are characterized by: What: Presque Isle Little Naturalist program, “Critters under cover,” Lake topography combined :783" %"&$%2 ,<&028);" #/*( for children ages 3 to 6 accompanied by an adult. Be prepared to be with changing water levels and trough to crest). outdoors for the full hour. strong waves can have extreme :783" '")$2% ,<&028);" #/*( When: Wednesday, Feb. 4, from 1 to 2 p.m. effects on the shoreline. crest to crest). Where: Meet at the Rotary Pavilion to explore Presque Isle forests Because of the lake’s shallow- :5"/&*< ,2&(" &)2"/38' 9"24"") and discover the critters that hide under logs and IN other habitats.
Recommended publications
  • Coastal Water Levels
    Guidance for Flood Risk Analysis and Mapping Coastal Water Levels May 2016 Requirements for the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) Risk Mapping, Assessment, and Planning (Risk MAP) Program are specified separately by statute, regulation, or FEMA policy (primarily the Standards for Flood Risk Analysis and Mapping). This document provides guidance to support the requirements and recommends approaches for effective and efficient implementation. Alternate approaches that comply with all requirements are acceptable. For more information, please visit the FEMA Guidelines and Standards for Flood Risk Analysis and Mapping webpage (www.fema.gov/guidelines-and-standards-flood-risk-analysis-and- mapping). Copies of the Standards for Flood Risk Analysis and Mapping policy, related guidance, technical references, and other information about the guidelines and standards development process are all available here. You can also search directly by document title at www.fema.gov/library. Water Levels May 2016 Guidance Document 67 Page i Document History Affected Section or Date Description Subsection Initial version of new transformed guidance. The content was derived from the Guidelines and Specifications for Flood Hazard Mapping Partners, Procedure Memoranda, First Publication May 2016 and/or Operating Guidance documents. It has been reorganized and is being published separately from the standards. Water Levels May 2016 Guidance Document 67 Page ii Table of Contents 1.0 Topic Overview .................................................................................................................
    [Show full text]
  • Tsunami, Seiches, and Tides Key Ideas Seiches
    Tsunami, Seiches, And Tides Key Ideas l The wavelengths of tsunami, seiches and tides are so great that they always behave as shallow-water waves. l Because wave speed is proportional to wavelength, these waves move rapidly through the water. l A seiche is a pendulum-like rocking of water in a basin. l Tsunami are caused by displacement of water by forces that cause earthquakes, by landslides, by eruptions or by asteroid impacts. l Tides are caused by the gravitational attraction of the sun and the moon, by inertia, and by basin resonance. 1 Seiches What are the characteristics of a seiche? Water rocking back and forth at a specific resonant frequency in a confined area is a seiche. Seiches are also called standing waves. The node is the position in a standing wave where water moves sideways, but does not rise or fall. 2 1 Seiches A seiche in Lake Geneva. The blue line represents the hypothetical whole wave of which the seiche is a part. 3 Tsunami and Seismic Sea Waves Tsunami are long-wavelength, shallow-water, progressive waves caused by the rapid displacement of ocean water. Tsunami generated by the vertical movement of earth along faults are seismic sea waves. What else can generate tsunami? llandslides licebergs falling from glaciers lvolcanic eruptions lother direct displacements of the water surface 4 2 Tsunami and Seismic Sea Waves A tsunami, which occurred in 1946, was generated by a rupture along a submerged fault. The tsunami traveled at speeds of 212 meters per second. 5 Tsunami Speed How can the speed of a tsunami be calculated? Remember, because tsunami have extremely long wavelengths, they always behave as shallow water waves.
    [Show full text]
  • Numerical Calculation of Seiche Motions in Harbours of Arbitrary Shape
    NUMERICAL CALCULATION OF SEICHE MOTIONS IN HARBOURS OF ARBITRARY SHAPE P. Gaillard Sogreah, Grenoble, France ABSTRACT A new method of calculation of wave diffraction around islands, off- shore structures, and of long wave oscillations within offshore or shore-connected harbours is presented. The method is a combination of the finite element technique with an analytical representation of the wave pattern in the far field. Examples of application are given, and results are compared with other theoretical and experimental investig- ations. INTRODUCTION The prediction of possible resonant response of harbours to long wave excitation may be an important factor at the design stage. Hydraulic scale models have the disadvantage of introducing some bias in the results due to wave reflection on the wave paddle and on the tank boundaries. Numerical methods on the other hand can avoid such spurious effects by an appropriate representation of the unbounded water medium outside the harbour. Various numerical methods exist for calculating the seiche motions in harbours of arbitrary shape and water depth configuration. Among these, the hybrid-element methods, as described by Berkhoff [l] , Bettess and Zienkiewicz [2] , Chen and Mei [3j , Sakai and Tsukioka [8] use a com- bination of the finite element technique with other methods for repre- senting the velocity potential within the harbour and in the offshore zone. This paper presents a new method based on the same general approach, with an analytical representation of the wave pattern in the far field. It differs from the former methods in several aspects stressed hereafter. We consider here two kinds of applications: a) the first is the study of wave diffraction by islands or bottom seated obstacles in the open sea and the study of wave oscil- lations within and around an offshore harbour.
    [Show full text]
  • Estimation of Significant Wave Height Using Satellite Data
    Research Journal of Applied Sciences, Engineering and Technology 4(24): 5332-5338, 2012 ISSN: 2040-7467 © Maxwell Scientific Organization, 2012 Submitted: March 18, 2012 Accepted: April 23, 2012 Published: December 15, 2012 Estimation of Significant Wave Height Using Satellite Data R.D. Sathiya and V. Vaithiyanathan School of Computing, SASTRA University, Thirumalaisamudram, India Abstract: Among the different ocean physical parameters applied in the hydrographic studies, sufficient work has not been noticed in the existing research. So it is planned to evaluate the wave height from the satellite sensors (OceanSAT 1, 2 data) without the influence of tide. The model was developed with the comparison of the actual data of maximum height of water level which we have collected for 24 h in beach. The same correlated with the derived data from the earlier satellite imagery. To get the result of the significant wave height, beach profile was alone taking into account the height of the ocean swell, the wave height was deduced from the tide chart. For defining the relationship between the wave height and the tides a large amount of good quality of data for a significant period is required. Radar scatterometers are also able to provide sea surface wind speed and the direction of accuracy. Aim of this study is to give the relationship between the height, tides and speed of the wind, such relationship can be useful in preparing a wave table, which will be of immense value for mariners. Therefore, the relationship between significant wave height and the radar backscattering cross section has been evaluated with back propagation neural network algorithm.
    [Show full text]
  • Deep Ocean Wind Waves Ch
    Deep Ocean Wind Waves Ch. 1 Waves, Tides and Shallow-Water Processes: J. Wright, A. Colling, & D. Park: Butterworth-Heinemann, Oxford UK, 1999, 2nd Edition, 227 pp. AdOc 4060/5060 Spring 2013 Types of Waves Classifiers •Disturbing force •Restoring force •Type of wave •Wavelength •Period •Frequency Waves transmit energy, not mass, across ocean surfaces. Wave behavior depends on a wave’s size and water depth. Wind waves: energy is transferred from wind to water. Waves can change direction by refraction and diffraction, can interfere with one another, & reflect from solid objects. Orbital waves are a type of progressive wave: i.e. waves of moving energy traveling in one direction along a surface, where particles of water move in closed circles as the wave passes. Free waves move independently of the generating force: wind waves. In forced waves the disturbing force is applied continuously: tides Parts of an ocean wave •Crest •Trough •Wave height (H) •Wavelength (L) •Wave speed (c) •Still water level •Orbital motion •Frequency f = 1/T •Period T=L/c Water molecules in the crest of the wave •Depth of wave base = move in the same direction as the wave, ½L, from still water but molecules in the trough move in the •Wave steepness =H/L opposite direction. 1 • If wave steepness > /7, the wave breaks Group Velocity against Phase Velocity = Cg<<Cp Factors Affecting Wind Wave Development •Waves originate in a “sea”area •A fully developed sea is the maximum height of waves produced by conditions of wind speed, duration, and fetch •Swell are waves
    [Show full text]
  • Continuous Seiche in Bays and Harbors
    Manuscript prepared for Ocean Sci. with version 2014/07/29 7.12 Copernicus papers of the LATEX class copernicus.cls. Date: 14 February 2016 Continuous seiche in bays and harbors J. Park1, J. MacMahan2, W. V. Sweet3, and K. Kotun1 1National Park Service, 950 N. Krome Ave, Homestead, FL, USA 2Naval Postgraduate School, 833 Dyer Rd., Monterey, CA 93943, USA 3NOAA, 1305 East West Hwy, Silver Spring, MD, USA Correspondence to: J. Park ([email protected]) Abstract. Seiches are often considered a transitory phenomenon wherein large amplitude water level oscillations are excited by a geophysical event, eventually dissipating some time after the event. However, continuous small–amplitude seiches have been recognized presenting a question as to the origin of continuous forcing. We examine 6 bays around the Pacific where continuous seiches 5 are evident, and based on spectral, modal and kinematic analysis suggest that tidally–forced shelf– resonances are a primary driver of continuous seiches. 1 Introduction It is long recognized that coastal water levels resonate. Resonances span the ocean as tides (Darwin, 1899) and bays as seiches (Airy, 1877; Chrystal, 1906). Bays and harbors offer refuge from the open 10 ocean by effectively decoupling wind waves and swell from an anchorage, although offshore waves are effective in driving resonant modes in the infragravity regime at periods of 30 s to 5 minutes (Okihiro and Guza, 1996; Thotagamuwage and Pattiaratchi, 2014), and at periods between 5 minutes and 2 hours bays and harbors can act as efficient amplifiers (Miles and Munk, 1961). Tides expressed on coasts are significantly altered by coastline and bathymetry, for example, 15 continental shelves modulate tidal amplitudes and dissipate tidal energy (Taylor, 1919) such that tidally–driven standing waves are a persistent feature on continental shelves (Webb, 1976; Clarke and Battisti, 1981).
    [Show full text]
  • Swell and Wave Forecasting
    Lecture 24 Part II Swell and Wave Forecasting 29 Swell and Wave Forecasting • Motivation • Terminology • Wave Formation • Wave Decay • Wave Refraction • Shoaling • Rouge Waves 30 Motivation • In Hawaii, surf is the number one weather-related killer. More lives are lost to surf-related accidents every year in Hawaii than another weather event. • Between 1993 to 1997, 238 ocean drownings occurred and 473 people were hospitalized for ocean-related spine injuries, with 77 directly caused by breaking waves. 31 Going for an Unintended Swim? Lulls: Between sets, lulls in the waves can draw inexperienced people to their deaths. 32 Motivation Surf is the number one weather-related killer in Hawaii. 33 Motivation - Marine Safety Surf's up! Heavy surf on the Columbia River bar tests a Coast Guard vessel approaching the mouth of the Columbia River. 34 Sharks Cove Oahu 35 Giant Waves Peggotty Beach, Massachusetts February 9, 1978 36 Categories of Waves at Sea Wave Type: Restoring Force: Capillary waves Surface Tension Wavelets Surface Tension & Gravity Chop Gravity Swell Gravity Tides Gravity and Earth’s rotation 37 Ocean Waves Terminology Wavelength - L - the horizontal distance from crest to crest. Wave height - the vertical distance from crest to trough. Wave period - the time between one crest and the next crest. Wave frequency - the number of crests passing by a certain point in a certain amount of time. Wave speed - the rate of movement of the wave form. C = L/T 38 Wave Spectra Wave spectra as a function of wave period 39 Open Ocean – Deep Water Waves • Orbits largest at sea sfc.
    [Show full text]
  • TSUNAMI and SEICHE
    TSUNAMI and SEICHE DEFINITIONS: Seiche – The action of a series of standing waves (sloshing action) of an enclosed body or partially enclosed body of water caused by earthquake shaking. Seiche action can affect harbors, bays, lakes, rivers, and canals. Tsunami – A sea wave of local or distant origin that results from large-scale displacements of the seafloor associated with large earthquakes, major submarine slides, or exploding volcanic islands. BACKGROUND INFORMATION: Tsunami The Pacific Coast of Washington is at risk from tsunamis. These destructive waves can be caused by coastal or submarine landslides or volcanism, but they are most commonly caused by large submarine earthquakes. Tsunamis are generated when these geologic events cause large, rapid movements in the sea floor that displace the water column above. That swift change creates a series of high-energy waves that radiate outward like pond ripples. Offshore tsunamis would strike the adjacent shorelines within minutes and also cross the ocean at speeds as great as 600 miles per hour to strike distant shores. In 1946, a tsunami was initiated by an earthquake in the Aleutian Islands of Alaska; in less than 5 hours, it reached Hawaii with waves as high as 55 feet and killed 173 people. Tsunami waves can continue for hours. The first wave can be followed by others a few minutes or a few hours later, and the later waves are commonly larger. The first wave to strike Crescent City, California, caused by the Alaska earthquake in Prince William Sound in 1964, was 9 feet above the tide level; the second, 29 minutes later, was 6 feet above tide, the third was about 11 feet above the tide level, and the fourth, most damaging wave was more than 16 feet above the tide level.
    [Show full text]
  • Unit 4 Earthquake Effects
    Unit 4 Earthquake Effects INTRODUCTION In the last unit, we looked at the causes and characteristics of earthquakes. Now let’s take a look at an earthquake’s effects on the natural and built environments. Knowing more about the effects of earthquakes helps us understand the mitigation steps that must be taken to protect a community from a seismic event. Unit 4 covers the following topics: • What are some effects of earthquakes on the natural and built environments? • What building characteristics are significant to seismic design? • How do buildings resist earthquake forces? • What secondary consequences of earthquakes must we be concerned with? WHAT ARE SOME EFFECTS OF EARTHQUAKES ON THE NATURAL ENVIRONMENT? In the last unit, we reviewed the different types of seismic waves that produce the violent ground shaking, or motion, associated with earthquakes. These wave vibrations produce several different effects on the natural environment that also can cause tremendous damage to the built environment (buildings, transportation lines and structures, communications lines, and utilities). Researching potential problems, known as site investigation, is a good first step in reducing damage to the built environment due to earthquakes. Page 4-2 Earthquake Effects Liquefaction Strong ground motion during an earthquake can cause water-saturated, unconsolidated soil to act more like a dense fluid than a solid; this process is called liquefaction. Liquefaction occurs when a material of solid consistency is transformed, with increased water pressure, in to a liquefied state. Water saturated, granular sediments such as silts, sands, and gravel that are free of clay particles are susceptible to liquefaction. Imagine what would happen to a building if the soil beneath it suddenly behaved like a liquid.
    [Show full text]
  • Statistics of Extreme Waves in Coastal Waters: Large Scale Experiments and Advanced Numerical Simulations
    fluids Article Statistics of Extreme Waves in Coastal Waters: Large Scale Experiments and Advanced Numerical Simulations Jie Zhang 1,2, Michel Benoit 1,2,* , Olivier Kimmoun 1,2, Amin Chabchoub 3,4 and Hung-Chu Hsu 5 1 École Centrale Marseille, 13013 Marseille, France; [email protected] (J.Z.); [email protected] (O.K.) 2 Aix Marseille Univ, CNRS, Centrale Marseille, IRPHE UMR 7342, 13013 Marseille, France 3 Centre for Wind, Waves and Water, School of Civil Engineering, The University of Sydney, Sydney, NSW 2006, Australia; [email protected] 4 Marine Studies Institute, The University of Sydney, Sydney, NSW 2006, Australia 5 Department of Marine Environment and Engineering, National Sun Yat-Sen University, Kaohsiung 80424, Taiwan; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected] Received: 7 February 2019; Accepted: 20 May 2019; Published: 29 May 2019 Abstract: The formation mechanism of extreme waves in the coastal areas is still an open contemporary problem in fluid mechanics and ocean engineering. Previous studies have shown that the transition of water depth from a deeper to a shallower zone increases the occurrence probability of large waves. Indeed, more efforts are required to improve the understanding of extreme wave statistics variations in such conditions. To achieve this goal, large scale experiments of unidirectional irregular waves propagating over a variable bottom profile considering different transition water depths were performed. The validation of two highly nonlinear numerical models was performed for one representative case. The collected data were examined and interpreted by using spectral or bispectral analysis as well as statistical analysis.
    [Show full text]
  • Surface Seiches in Flathead Lake
    Hydrol. Earth Syst. Sci., 19, 2605–2615, 2015 www.hydrol-earth-syst-sci.net/19/2605/2015/ doi:10.5194/hess-19-2605-2015 © Author(s) 2015. CC Attribution 3.0 License. Surface seiches in Flathead Lake G. Kirillin1,2, M. S. Lorang2, T. C. Lippmann2,3, C. C. Gotschalk2, and S. Schimmelpfennig1 1Department of Ecohydrology, Leibniz Institute of Freshwater Ecology and Inland Fisheries (IGB), Berlin, Germany 2The University of Montana, Flathead Lake Biological Station, Polson, MT, USA 3University of New Hampshire, Dept. of Earth Sciences and Center for Coastal and Ocean Mapping, NH, USA Correspondence to: G. Kirilin ([email protected]) Received: 10 October 2014 – Published in Hydrol. Earth Syst. Sci. Discuss.: 10 December 2014 Revised: 14 April 2015 – Accepted: 11 May 2015 – Published: 3 June 2015 Abstract. Standing surface waves or seiches are inherent hy- namics. Seiches exist in any (semi) enclosed basin, where drodynamic features of enclosed water bodies. Their two- long surface waves reflecting at opposite shores interfere to dimensional structure is important for estimating flood risk, produce a standing wave. The longest possible seiche (the coastal erosion, and bottom sediment transport, and for un- first “fundamental” mode) has the wavelength λ that is twice derstanding shoreline habitats and lake ecology in general. the distance between the shores, L. The wavelengths of other In this work, we present analysis of two-dimensional seiche possible modes decrease by even fractions of the distance be- characteristics in Flathead Lake, Montana, USA, a large in- tween shores. Therefore, for the majority of possible modes, termountain lake known to have high seiche amplitudes.
    [Show full text]
  • Random Wave Analysis
    RANDOM WA VE ANALYSIS The goal of this handout is to consider statistical and probabilistic descriptions of random wave heights and periods. In design, random waves are often represented by a single characteristic wave height and wave period. Most often, the significant wave height is used to represent wave heights in a random sea. It is important to understand, however, that wave heights have some statistical variability about this representative value. Knowledge of the probability distribution of wave heights is therefore essential to fully describe the range of wave conditions expected, especially the extreme values that are most important for design. Short Term Statistics of Sea Waves: Short term statistics describe the probabilities of qccurrence of wave heights and periods that occur within one observation or measurement of ocean waves. Such an observation typically consists of a wave record over a short time period, ranging from a few minutes to perhaps 15 or 30 minutes. An example is shown below in Figure 1 for a 150 second wave record. @. ,; 3 <D@ Q) Q ® ®<V®®®@@@ (fJI@ .~ ; 2 "' "' ~" '- U)" 150 ~ -Il. Time.I (s) ;:::" -2 Figure 1. Example of short term wave record from a random sea (Goda, 2002) . ' Zero-Crossing Analysis The standard. method of determining the short-term statistics of a wave record is through the zero-crossing analysis. Either the so-called zero-upcrossing method or the zero­ downcrossing method may be used; the statistics should be the same for a sufficiently long record. Figure 1 shows the results from a zero-upcrossing analysis. In this case, the mean water level is first determined.
    [Show full text]