WP Wednesday APRIL 11,2012 WWW.LOHUD.COM Puzzles inside B Soft-shell crabs are in season Seafood tastes best when caught at the right time By Mario Batali MCT We don’t typically think of seafood as seasonal. Some forms of salmon, sea bass, crustaceans and lobster are available in supermarkets year-round. Traditionally, many species of fish have only been available during cer- tain seasons. As the world has gotten flatter, it’s become easier to ship prod- uct from the East China Sea to New York and back again. Fresh seafood is now accessible all year. But locating and shipping quality seafood increases the cost of the product, as well as its carbon footprint. Some fish are locally harvested year-round. In New York, we have tilefish and squid in every season. On tap: However, migratory fish like bluefish and tuna move up and down the East Coast as the temper- Better American ature of the ocean water changes, and come through our area only in Mario Batali the spring or summer as they migrate. I’m a dedicated champion of locally sourced ingredients, and seafood is no exception. If you live in a landlocked BREWS area, you don’t necessarily need to omit fish from your diet. At my restau- Garrett Oliver, noted rants in Las Vegas, for instance, we source our seafood as locally as possi- expert, tells us why ble (from the West Coast). Consider your options when purchasing sea- craft beer is on the rise food, and use the Monterey Bay Aquar- ium website to inform you before you By Heather Salerno head to the market. It is a constantly [email protected] changing source of information on world fish supplies. (Visit www. mon- As the brewmaster for Brooklyn tereybay aquarium.org and click on Brewery and a world-renowned ex- the Seafood Watch icon.) pert on beer, Garrett Oliver is this Elizabeth Meltz, the director of food country’s ambassador for craft safety and sustainability for my res- brewing. taurants, is an expert on sourcing in- And nothing makes him gredients locally and on the environ- prouder than touting how far mental impact of the alternatives. “I the U.S. has come in this field. once read something that said, ‘For “We are the success story top-scale flavor, bite when fish are in in beer in the world. From Bra- season,’ and that sums it up,” she says. zil to Japan to Sweden, every- “Currently, tilefish, shad, mackerel, body knows that,” he says. lobster, skate and flounder here on the “Fifteen years ago, if you East Coast are all in season right now.” went to Germany and talked Soft-shell crabs are one seafood about American beer — even if species that is rarely available out of they’d heard of the craft brewing season. What we call “soft-shell” are movement — they were very dismis- typically blue crabs that have recently sive. Today, that’s definitely not the molted their exoskeletons and are still case. American craft beer is kind of soft and 100 percent edible. In Ameri- ca, they’re available in their natural See OLIVER, Page 4B state and alive from spring to late sum- mer. In this recipe, I pair the crabs with Garrett Oliver is hosting a beer dinner hot chilies and fusilli bucati. It’s a su- at The Tap House in Tuckahoe tonight. premely delicious, seasonal combina- COURTESY OF BROOKLYN BREWERY tion. FUSILLI BUCATI RECIPE, Page 4B Use up those extra pastel-colored hard-boiled eggs By Noelle Carter up, folding in a little sour cream or may- this sauce is basically a vinaigrette some chopped onions, eggs, olives, even Los Angeles Times onnaise to lighten, a little mustard, some decked out with capers, chopped herbs some raisins for an unexpected touch of chopped herbs, maybe a dash of Worces- and maybe chopped onion or shallot. sweetness. Place the filling in little past- The Easter Bunny has come and gone, tershire. Dollop the filling back in the Chopped egg adds richness, especially ry rounds (make your own, or use puff the egg hunt is over and the kids have shell (or pipe it in if you’re feeling fancy) when spooned over spring vegetables. pastry) and bake or deep fry. overdosed on chocolate and jelly beans. and you’ve got stuffed eggs. To devil You’re cleaning up the last of the festiv- them properly, add a little heat with a Empanadas Anchovy, pepper and egg ities when suddenly, reality in every dash of Tabasco or a sprinkling of cay- pintxos shade of pastel seems to stare you down. enne pepper. What is it with hard-boiled eggs and What do you do with all those hard-boiled ground meat? Add a couple hard-boiled Want to dress your eggs up a bit? Try eggs? We’ve got some ideas: Sauce ravigote eggs to your meatloaf before baking, or them in a layered Spanish tapa. Spoon a coat the egg with sausage, bread it and little mayonnaise on a toasted baguette Deviled eggs For something a little different, try deep-fry it to make a classic Scotch egg. slice. Top with a slice each of egg and adding chopped egg to this sauce. Taken Or chop them up and use in empanadas: boiled, peeled potato. Place a strip of This one’s a no-brainer. Halve some from the French “ravigoter,” which Spice ground beef or chicken with a little eggs and scoop out the yolks. Mash them means “to perk up,” the cold version of cumin, a pinch or two of paprika and See EGGS, Page 4B RESTAURANTS Mixed Case Behind the LoHud Wine of Kitchen Door the Week We get behind the scenes in local restaurants to see the Farmer’s Market Sauvig- coolest dishes, gadgets and non Blanc 2010: A refresh- appliances (like the Robot ing and delicious white with Coupe, below). This week: lemon grass and citric aro- The Freight House in Maho- mas, a medium weight and pac. Check it out at food.lo- flavors of ripe tangy fruit. hudblogs.com. Region: Marlborough, New Zealand. Goes with: oys- ters, light fish in a lemon beurre blanc sauce and DINING cheeses, especially goat cheeses. Price: $19. Recom- mended by: Aries Wine & Sunday restaurant stories Spirits, White Plains. For Don’t miss more dining coverage in our more recommendations, Sunday Life section, which has two col- videos and tasting notes go umns: Restaurants We Love and New on to lohud.com/food. the Dining Scene. Coming Sunday: Rye Grill, Burrata in Eastchester and Flour Buds, agluten-free bakery in Nyack owned by Pam Goldberg, above. 4B Wednesday, April 11,2012 WP The Journal News lohud.com OLIVER: World-famous beer expert touts U.S. craft brews Continued from Page 1B beer snob? Absolutely. There are where it’s at.” definitely beer snobs. I’m IF YOU GO Oliver’s job has taken certainly a beer geek, but What: A beer dinner him to hundreds of tast- whether it’s snobbery or hosted by Brooklyn ings, demonstrations and not is a different thing. If Brewery’s Garrett food events all over the you like something and Oliver globe — and this month don’t like other things, When: 6:30 p.m., April was no different. well, the other word for it 11 We caught up to him by is taste. I’d rather listen to Where: The Tap House, phone after a tour of the Lester Young instead of 16 Depot Square, Tuck- United Kingdom and Ger- Kenny G. if I’m going to ahoe many, during a swing listen to someone play the Price: $90 per person, through New England. saxophone. Somebody including tax and tip He’s off soon to Scandina- could say I’m a music Details: 914-337-6941; Garrett Oliver, brewmaster via, but not before stop- snob. If that’s what that www.thetaphouseny at Brooklyn Brewery. ping by Tu ckahoe’s Tap means, then yes, I am a .com COURTESY OF BROOKLYN BREWERY House tonight to host a music snob. One person’s beer dinner. And he’ll be snobbery is another per- back in Westchester on son’s refinement or enjoy- CELEBRITY SALON SERIES May 24, as one of this ment. year’s guest speakers for You’re hosting the Brooklyn Brewery’s Garrett Oliver isn’t the only taste- Westchester Community Tap House’s beer dinner. maker in this year’s Westchester Community College College’s annual Celebri- Are there guidelines for Celebrity Salon Series, which take place in private homes ty Salon Series. pairing certain brews throughout the area. His event takes place on May 24, But until then, here’s with beef, seafood or but check out what other notable names are taking part what Garrett Oliver had other dishes? in this fundraiser for student scholarships: to say about his sudsy ca- You don’t want to have Journalist Linda Greenhouse (April 29): This Pulitzer reer and the rise of Amer- the food overwhelm the Prize-winning reporter covered the Supreme Court for ican beer. beer or the other way 30 years for The New York Times. Her new book, “The So many beer lovers around. For example, hav- U.S. Supreme Court: A Very Short Introduction” provides would kill for your job. ing a nice char on the sur- insight to the justices and how this institution really How did you get into face of a steak, you might works. this line of work? want to serve brown ale Author Robert Massie (May 4): The award-winning After I got out of col- that has its own roasted biographer and renowned expert in Russian history lege, I moved to London flavors that are going to chronicles the fascinating life of Catherine the Great in and spent a year there and tie into that.