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Wednesday APRIL 11,2012 WWW.LOHUD.COM Puzzles inside B Soft-shell crabs are in season Seafood tastes best when caught at the right time

By Mario Batali MCT

We don’t typically think of seafood as seasonal. Some forms of salmon, sea bass, crustaceans and lobster are available in supermarkets year-round. Traditionally, many species of fish have only been available during cer- tain seasons. As the world has gotten flatter, it’s become easier to ship prod- uct from the East China Sea to New York and back again. Fresh seafood is now accessible all year. But locating and shipping quality seafood increases the cost of the product, as well as its carbon footprint. Some fish are locally harvested year-round. In New York, we have tilefish and squid in every season. On tap: However, migratory fish like bluefish and tuna move up and down the East Coast as the temper- Better American ature of the ocean water changes, and come through our area only in Mario Batali the spring or summer as they migrate. I’m a dedicated champion of locally sourced ingredients, and seafood is no exception. If you live in a landlocked BREWS area, you don’t necessarily need to omit fish from your diet. At my restau- Garrett Oliver, noted rants in Las Vegas, for instance, we source our seafood as locally as possi- expert, tells us why ble (from the West Coast). Consider your options when purchasing sea- craft beer is on the rise food, and use the Monterey Bay Aquar- ium website to inform you before you By Heather Salerno head to the market. It is a constantly [email protected] changing source of information on world fish supplies. (Visit www. mon- As the brewmaster for Brooklyn tereybay aquarium.org and click on Brewery and a world-renowned ex- the Seafood Watch icon.) pert on beer, Garrett Oliver is this Elizabeth Meltz, the director of food country’s ambassador for craft safety and sustainability for my res- brewing. taurants, is an expert on sourcing in- And nothing makes him gredients locally and on the environ- prouder than touting how far mental impact of the alternatives. “I the U.S. has come in this field. once read something that said, ‘For “We are the success story top-scale flavor, bite when fish are in in beer in the world. From Bra- season,’ and that sums it up,” she says. zil to Japan to , every- “Currently, tilefish, shad, mackerel, body knows that,” he says. lobster, skate and flounder here on the “Fifteen years ago, if you East Coast are all in season right now.” went to and talked Soft-shell crabs are one seafood about American beer — even if species that is rarely available out of they’d heard of the craft brewing season. What we call “soft-shell” are movement — they were very dismis- typically blue crabs that have recently sive. Today, that’s definitely not the molted their exoskeletons and are still case. American craft beer is kind of soft and 100 percent edible. In Ameri- ca, they’re available in their natural See OLIVER, Page 4B state and alive from spring to late sum- mer. In this recipe, I pair the crabs with Garrett Oliver is hosting a beer dinner hot chilies and fusilli bucati. It’s a su- at The Tap House in Tuckahoe tonight. premely delicious, seasonal combina- COURTESY OF BROOKLYN BREWERY tion.

FUSILLI BUCATI RECIPE, Page 4B Use up those extra pastel-colored hard-boiled eggs By Noelle Carter up, folding in a little sour cream or may- this sauce is basically a vinaigrette some chopped onions, eggs, olives, even Los Angeles Times onnaise to lighten, a little mustard, some decked out with capers, chopped herbs some raisins for an unexpected touch of chopped herbs, maybe a dash of Worces- and maybe chopped onion or shallot. sweetness. Place the filling in little past- The Easter Bunny has come and gone, tershire. Dollop the filling back in the Chopped egg adds richness, especially ry rounds (make your own, or use puff the egg hunt is over and the kids have shell (or pipe it in if you’re feeling fancy) when spooned over spring vegetables. pastry) and bake or deep fry. overdosed on chocolate and jelly beans. and you’ve got stuffed eggs. To devil You’re cleaning up the last of the festiv- them properly, add a little heat with a Empanadas Anchovy, pepper and egg ities when suddenly, reality in every dash of Tabasco or a sprinkling of cay- pintxos shade of pastel seems to stare you down. enne pepper. What is it with hard-boiled eggs and What do you do with all those hard-boiled ground meat? Add a couple hard-boiled Want to dress your eggs up a bit? Try eggs? We’ve got some ideas: Sauce ravigote eggs to your meatloaf before baking, or them in a layered Spanish tapa. Spoon a coat the egg with sausage, bread it and little mayonnaise on a toasted baguette Deviled eggs For something a little different, try deep-fry it to make a classic Scotch egg. slice. Top with a slice each of egg and adding chopped egg to this sauce. Taken Or chop them up and use in empanadas: boiled, peeled potato. Place a strip of This one’s a no-brainer. Halve some from the French “ravigoter,” which Spice ground beef or chicken with a little eggs and scoop out the yolks. Mash them means “to perk up,” the cold version of cumin, a pinch or two of paprika and See EGGS, Page 4B

RESTAURANTS Mixed Case Behind the LoHud Wine of Kitchen Door the Week We get behind the scenes in local restaurants to see the Farmer’s Market Sauvig- coolest dishes, gadgets and non Blanc 2010: A refresh- appliances (like the Robot ing and delicious white with Coupe, below). This week: lemon grass and citric aro- The Freight House in Maho- mas, a medium weight and pac. Check it out at food.lo- flavors of ripe tangy fruit. hudblogs.com. Region: Marlborough, New Zealand. Goes with: oys- ters, light fish in a lemon beurre blanc sauce and DINING cheeses, especially goat cheeses. Price: $19. Recom- mended by: Aries Wine & Sunday restaurant stories Spirits, White Plains. For Don’t miss more dining coverage in our more recommendations, Sunday Life section, which has two col- videos and tasting notes go umns: Restaurants We Love and New on to lohud.com/food. the Dining Scene. Coming Sunday: Rye Grill, Burrata in Eastchester and Flour Buds, agluten-free bakery in Nyack owned by Pam Goldberg, above. 4B Wednesday, April 11,2012 WP The Journal News lohud.com OLIVER: World-famous beer expert touts U.S. craft brews

Continued from Page 1B beer snob? Absolutely. There are where it’s at.” definitely beer snobs. I’m IF YOU GO Oliver’s job has taken certainly a beer geek, but What: A beer dinner him to hundreds of tast- whether it’s snobbery or hosted by Brooklyn ings, demonstrations and not is a different thing. If Brewery’s Garrett food events all over the you like something and Oliver globe — and this month don’t like other things, When: 6:30 p.m., April was no different. well, the other word for it 11 We caught up to him by is taste. I’d rather listen to Where: The Tap House, phone after a tour of the Lester Young instead of 16 Depot Square, Tuck- United Kingdom and Ger- Kenny G. if I’m going to ahoe many, during a swing listen to someone play the Price: $90 per person, through New England. saxophone. Somebody including tax and tip He’s off soon to Scandina- could say I’m a music Details: 914-337-6941; Garrett Oliver, brewmaster via, but not before stop- snob. If that’s what that www.thetaphouseny at Brooklyn Brewery. ping by Tu ckahoe’s Tap means, then yes, I am a .com COURTESY OF BROOKLYN BREWERY House tonight to host a music snob. One person’s beer dinner. And he’ll be snobbery is another per- back in Westchester on son’s refinement or enjoy- CELEBRITY SALON SERIES May 24, as one of this ment. year’s guest speakers for You’re hosting the Brooklyn Brewery’s Garrett Oliver isn’t the only taste- Westchester Community Tap House’s beer dinner. maker in this year’s Westchester Community College College’s annual Celebri- Are there guidelines for Celebrity Salon Series, which take place in private homes ty Salon Series. pairing certain brews throughout the area. His event takes place on May 24, But until then, here’s with beef, seafood or but check out what other notable names are taking part what Garrett Oliver had other dishes? in this fundraiser for student scholarships: to say about his sudsy ca- You don’t want to have Journalist Linda Greenhouse (April 29): This Pulitzer reer and the rise of Amer- the food overwhelm the Prize-winning reporter covered the Supreme Court for ican beer. beer or the other way 30 years for . Her new book, “The So many beer lovers around. For example, hav- U.S. Supreme Court: A Very Short Introduction” provides would kill for your job. ing a nice char on the sur- insight to the justices and how this institution really How did you get into face of a steak, you might works. this line of work? want to serve brown ale Author Robert Massie (May 4): The award-winning After I got out of col- that has its own roasted biographer and renowned expert in Russian history lege, I moved to London flavors that are going to chronicles the fascinating life of Catherine the Great in and spent a year there and tie into that. Our Sorachi his latest book. really fell in love with the Ace has these very lem- New York Botanical Garden’s Gregory Long (May 6): traditional cask-condi- The main dining room at The Tap House in Tuckahoe, ony sorts of flavors that Now president and chief executive of the 250-acre tioned beer. Then I went which will be the venue for a beer dinner with Garrett are great to go along with public garden, Long has spent the last 21 years devoted to its restoration and revitalization. traveling all over Europe, Oliver of Brooklyn Brewery tonight. FILE PHOTO/THE JOURNAL seafood … Brooklyn had all these wonderful NEWS Blast, which is our big IPA Journalist Frank Bruni (May 8): Now an op-ed col- beers, got back to the (India pale ale) has a lot of umnist at the New York Times, Bruni made a name for United States and found beers that all tasted the most widely consumed bitterness, but also a lot of himself as the paper’s influential restaurant critic and that we didn’t have any- same for 300 million peo- alcoholic beverage. Why bright, citrus flavor Rome bureau chief. He wrote about his struggle with thing at that time with ple, especially given the does it have such univer- (that’s) very nice with overeating in the bestseller “Born Round: The Secret that kind of flavor to it. So background of the United sal appeal? spicy foods. History of a Full Time Eater.” Istarted making beer at States as this melting pot Beer can taste like ba- You’re always creat- Bard College President Dr. Leon Botstein (May 9): As home as a hobby. of wonderful blended cul- nanas or flowers or lem- ing brand-new beers at the country’s youngest and longest serving four-year It turned into a job in tures. … ons or coffee or chocolate Brooklyn Brewery. college president, Botstein created the Bard Music Festi- 1989 when I went to ap- So I think many people or ginger. So brewing is What’s up next? val, Simon’s Rock College and Bard High School Early prentice at a place called are surprised when they really a lot more like cook- We have a program College. He’s also the music director and conductor of the Manhattan Brewing taste these beers. They ing than winemaking. I called the Brewmaster’s the American Symphony Orchestra. Company. It’s no longer say, ‘Wow, it tastes won- love wine, and I consider Reserve, and every three Educator David Levin (May 22): As co-founder of the there, but it was a pioneer- derful, but it doesn’t taste myself a bit of a wine or four months, we create Knowledge Is Power Program, Levin helped create this ing brewpub in SoHo … like beer to me.’ That’s not geek. anew beer that will be network of free, college-preparatory public schools that eventually I became head the case. It’s that these But wine does general- available on draft in the currently serves more than 33,000 students. brewer there and came to beers taste like beer. It’s ly taste like wine … you areas where we sell beer. Sports commentator Chris Berman (May 23): The Brooklyn Brewery in kind of like someone eat- have variations but The next one, coming up popular sportscaster will talk football, baseball, hockey, 1994. ing a fresh loaf of bread they’re around a central in a few weeks, is called golf and more, offering entertaining inside stories from Craft beer has had a when they’ve been eating theme. And that theme is Gold Standard. This is a his 30 years as the voice of ESPN. huge surge in popularity supermarket white bread based on only one thing, take on the unfiltered la- Author David Oshinksy (June 2): A Pulitzer winner for in recent years. What’s all their life. The real stuff which is a grape. So be- gers of Germany that you his book, “Polio: An American Story,” Oshinksy tells the the reason for the up- has a lot more flavor to it. cause we can add fruits almost never see in the moving story of the polio terror and the quest to find a swing? And I think people are and spices and anything United States at all … this cure. Many people look at looking at beer as the new we like to beer … we have is, in a way, a take on a pil- Journalist (June 3): The editorial page craft beer and see a trend affordable luxury. It prob- amuch wider range of fla- sner but it’s a little strong- editor of and host of or a fad, and they’re con- ably costs less than your vor to play with, and I er. It has a really sharp, Channel’s Journal Editorial Report will discuss the 2012 tinually surprised that it Starbucks every day, but think people find that nat- snappy bitterness to it, presidential election. keeps going. It’s actually a you can have some of the urally exciting. and a big, floral hop aro- Cocktails and hors d’oeuvres will be served at all salons, return to normality. The best in the world for that There are plenty of ma … I think it’s going to which are $135 per event. For more information, call weird part was when we price. wine snobs out there. Is be a great beer for spring- 914-606-6558. had basically only three Beer is the world’s there such a thing as a time.

Complete listings in Sunday’s guide and online at www.LoHud.com/tvlistings MOVIE Wednesday, April 11 FROM THE COVER EVENING 8:00 8:30 9:00 9:30 10:00 10:30 Survivor: One World Out With ABang. Paranoia Criminal Minds The Company. Asighting of CSI: Crime Scene Investigation Altered Stakes. 2WCBS sets in as the entire camps feverishly looks for Morgan's dead cousin makes him confront alie Stokes and the team work to have aviolent man Fusilli Bucati With the hidden idol. (N) (HD) he told his family. (N) (HD) remain in prison. (N) (HD) Soft-shell Crabs And Hot Betty White’s Off Their Best Friends Forever Rock Center with Brian Williams Scott Cohn in- Law &Order: Special Victims Unit Justice 4WNBC Rockers Episode 3. (N) Butt Dial. Accidental vestigates claims the popular gun manufac- Denied. While investigating arape, Benson rec- Chilies (HD) call. (N) (HD) turer, Remington. (N) (HD) ognizes the M.O. from aprevious case. (N) (HD) American Idol Finalists Compete. The final seven competitors work on recent songs from the FOX 5News at 10 News events of the day, late Recipe courtesy of “Molto Batali” (ecco 2011) 5WNYW 2010s with amentor that knows how to make achart-topping hit; the judges critique shaky per- breaking news and NYC area weather forecasts. Serves 8 to 10 as an appetizer, 6 as a main course. formances and praise extraordinary ones, hoping to instill confidence in the final seven. (N) (HD) (N) The Middle Business Suburgatory Down Time. Election (:31) Don’t Trust the Revenge From the Beginning. (N) (HD) 7WABC Done. Frankie is inspired George is concerned Day. Final campaigning. B—— in Apartment 23 6live soft-shell crabs 4red jalapenos, cored, seeded, by asermon. (N) (HD) about . (N) (HD) (N) (HD) Pilot. (N) (HD) and julienned Friends Like. Barry's client list is Burn Notice Long Way Back. Dangerous man The 10 O’Clock News The Office Business Salt and freshly ground black 9WWOR stolen. (HD) from Fiona's past. (HD) (N) Trip. Canada trip. (HD) pepper 1/4 cup dry white wine America’s Next Top Model Beverly Johnson. America’s Next Top Model Jessica Sutta. Di- WPIX News at Ten The local news and weather 6tablespoons extra virgin 2cups basic tomato sauce (for 11 WPIX Fashion Week runway shows. (HD) recting amusic video. (N) (HD) forecast. (N) olive oil quick results, try Mario 13 WNET Nature Ocean Giants. Vocal capabilities. (HD) NOVA Tornadoes. (N) (HD) America Revealed Machine. (N) (HD) Batali pasta sauces by Gia 21 WLIW Doc Martin the Romance. Anew doctor. MI-5 Covert missions by Special Agents. EastEnders EastEnders 1medium red onion, thinly 25 WNYE (7:30) Globe Trekker Ted Talks in NYC (N) NYC 2.0 City Hardwood Talk Stoop Toni On! Street Eats. sliced Russa) 31 WPXN Cold Case Creatures. Doorman's death. (HD) Cold Case Friends. Prohibition crime. (HD) Criminal Minds Bloodline. (HD) 6Italian frying peppers, cored, 11/2 pounds fusilli bucati Una familia con suerte Cambios drásticos. (HD) Abismo de pasión Triángulo amoroso. (N) (HD) La que no podía amar (TVPG) (HD) 41 WXTV seeded, and julienned pasta 47 WNJU Una maid en Manhattan (N) (HD) Corazón valiente Reencuentro. (N) Relaciones peligrosas (N) (HD) 48 RNN Paid Program Paid Program Changing World Paid Program Paid Program Paid Program 55 WLNY Law &Order: Criminal Intent Depths. (HD) Law &Order: Criminal Intent Unchained. (HD) Judge Judy (N) Judge Judy Bring 8 quarts of water to a boil in a large pasta pot. 63 WMBC Worship Sermons (:40) MBN News WMBC News-Korean Sister Noona Paid Program Paid Program While the water is heating, clean the crabs by snipping off CABLE 8:00 8:30 9:00 9:30 10:00 10:30 their faces with a pair of scissors and removing the skirts. Cut A&E Storage Wars (HD) Storage Wars (HD) Dog Bounty (HD) Dog Bounty (N) (HD) Duck Dynasty (N) (HD) Duck Dynasty (N) (HD) each crab in half, season with salt and black pepper, and set Kindergarten Cop aac ('90, Comedy) Arnold Schwarzenegger. Adetective hunting the ex-wife of adangerous drug Kindergarten Cop aac AMC dealer goes undercover as akindergarten teacher in order to find and protect his potential witness. (PG-13) (HD) ('90) (PG-13) (HD) aside. BET Fat Albert aa ('04, Family) Kenan Thompson. Cartoon character come to life. (PG) National Security ('03) Martin Lawrence. (PG-13) In a 12- to 14-inch saute pan, heat the olive oil over medium- BRAV The Real Housewives of Orange County Interior Therapy with Jeff Lewis Pasadena. (N) Million Dollar Listing New York Bailing. (N) high heat until smoking. Add the onions, Italian peppers and CNBC NHL Hockey Detroit Red Wings at Nashville Predators from Bridgestone Arena (Live) jalapenos, and cook until softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the CNN Anderson Cooper 360° Breaking news. (N) (HD) Piers Morgan Tonight (N) (HD) Anderson Cooper 360° Breaking news. (HD) crab pieces and cook until the crabs are deep red and firm. COM Chappelle’s Show South Park Freak. South Park (HD) South Park (HD) South Park (N) (HD) Ugly Americans (N) Be careful not to break up the crabs with aggressive stirring. a DIS A.N.T. Farm Underdog ('07, Science Fiction) Brad Garrett. A superhero dog. (PG) Phineas and Ferb Austin &Ally Add the white wine and the tomato sauce, and bring to a Sons of Guns World's Largest. (HD) Sons of Guns Armored and. (N) (HD) Will &Rich’s Top 10 Shootouts (HD) DSC boil. Then lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. ESPN NBA Basketball New York Knicks at Milwaukee Bucks from Bradley Center (Live) (HD) NBA Basketball (HD) ESPN2 (7:00) MLB Baseball Marlins at Philadelphia Phillies from Citizens Bank Park (Live) (HD) Baseball Tonight (HD) Meanwhile, add 2 tablespoons salt to the boiling water. Drop FAM Mrs. Doubtfire aaa ('93, Comedy) Robin Williams. Adisguised father becomes his ex-wife's housekeeper to be near his children. (PG-13) (HD) the fusilli into the boiling water and cook for 1minute less FOXN The O’Reilly Factor News talk. (N) Conservative news. (N) On the Record with (N) than the package instructions indicate. Just before the pasta FX Zombieland aaa ('09, Horror) Woody Harrelson. Gang kills zombies to find last refuge. (R) (HD) Legion aa ('10, Fantasy) Paul Bettany. (R) (HD) is done, carefully ladle 1/4 cup of the cooking water into the Unknown aac ('11, Mystery) Liam Neeson. After awreck, adoctor wakes up and finds no one Game of Thrones Night Lands. Tyrion chastises pan containing the crabs. HBO knows him, including his wife. (PG-13) (HD) Cersei; Arya's secret. (HD) Pawn Stars Coreys Big Pawn Stars Guilty as Sold! Rick's Royal Fl. Sold! Welcome to Gun. American Restoration Blast Off!. Tough 1960s Drain the pasta in a colander, and add it to the crab mixture. HIST Burn. (HD) Charg. (HD) Plunger; go-kart. (N) (N) rocket-slide &1930s pump. (N) (HD) Toss over medium heat for about 30 seconds, until the pasta IFC Doubt aaac ('08, Drama) Meryl Streep. Apriest is accused of pedophilia. (PG-13) (HD) (:15) Brown Sugar ('02) Taye Diggs. (PG-13) (HD) is nicely coated. Pour onto a heated platter, and serve imme- Wife Swap Padovan. "Modern pioneer" swaps Wife Swap Aguirre; Ray. Punker mom swaps Wife Swap Drago. Apampering mother of three diately. LIFE with materialist. with conservative mom. swaps with ahard-working mother of three. (Mario Batali is the owner of Babbo, Lupa and Otto in Sanctum aa ('11, Thriller) Richard Roxburgh. Rogue storm seals veteran divers in unexplored Happy Gilmore aac ('96, Comedy) Adam Sandler. MAX underwater caves, stirring panic. (R) (HD) Aman changes the face of golf. (PG-13) (HD) Manhttan and Tarry Lodge in Port Chester. His latest book MSG NBA Basketball New York Knicks at Milwaukee Bucks from Bradley Center (Live) Knicks Post Game is “Molto Batali,” published by Ecco.) MSGPL UFC Reloaded UFC 135: Jones vs Rampage. (Taped) MSNBC The Ed Show Hot political news. (N) (HD) The Rachel Maddow Show (N) (HD) The Last Word with Lawrence O’Donnell (N) MTV 16 and Pregnant Briana. Family support. 16 and Pregnant Lindsey. Cage fighter. America’s Best Dance Crew Spears dances. (N) NICK My Wife and Kids My Wife and Kids George Lopez George Lopez That ‘70s Show (HD) That ‘70s Show (HD) aac SHO Bryan Callen: Man Class Bryan Callen is avery popular comic who wants Drive Angry ('11, Action) Nicolas Cage. Man escapes hell for re- Some ideas to share how he became aman. (N) (HD) venge against daughter &granddaughter's attackers. (R) (HD) EGGS: SNY (7:30) MLB Baseball Washington Nationals at New York Mets from Citi Field (Replay) (HD) SportsNITE (HD) ful “sandy” texture. The SPIKE Auction Hunters (HD) Auction Hunters (HD) Auction Hunters (N) Auction Hunters (HD) American Digger (N) American Digger (HD) Continued from Page 1B addition of crumbled aa aac STARZ (7:10) Prom ('11, Comedy) Aimee Teegarden. 30 Minutes or Less ('11, Comedy) Jesse Eisenberg. Inexperienced The Sorcerer’s Appren- hard-boiled egg yolks Teens prepare for ahigh school prom. (PG) (HD) criminals kidnap apizza delivery guy and force him to rob abank. (R) (HD) tice aac ('10) (PG) (HD) roasted green and red adds richness and helps SYFY Ghost Hunters City Hell. Ghost of mayor. (HD) Ghost Hunters Frighternity. (N) (HD) Monster Man Wee Boots. Miniature alien. (N) pepper over, then top to contribute to their fi- TBS Family Guy Family Guy Dog. Family Guy Family Guy The Big Bang Theory The Big Bang Theory with a couple anchovy fil- nal texture. Live From the TCM Film Festival: Peter O’Toole The Lion in Winter aaac ('68, Drama) Peter O'Toole. Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine become TCM Peter O'Toole shares his memories. involved in abattle of wills. (PG) lets and a sprinkling of TLC My Crazy Obsession My Crazy Obsession Toddlers and Tiaras Darling Divas. (HD) Toddlers and Tiaras Winter Pageant. (N) (HD) minced parsley. aac ac TMC Night Catches Us ('10, Drama) Kerry Washington. Aman visits his Asunder ('98, Thriller) Blair Underwood. Aman whose pregnant wife home town where he must face the suspicions of former friends. (R) (HD) died interferes in his best friends' marriage. (R) (HD) Sable cookies TNT Law &Order Bogeyman. Cult victim. (HD) Law &Order House Counsel. (HD) Law &Order Love. Fashion victim. (HD) TVL Home Improvement Home Improvement Loves Raymond (HD) Loves Raymond (HD) Hot in Cleveland (N) Happily Divorced (N) Did the chocolate bun- USA NCIS Swan Song. Infiltrating NCIS. (HD) NCIS Pyramid. Port-to-Port killer's identity. (HD) Santabarbaratown. (TVPG) (N) nies not satisfy your VH1 Behind the Music T-Pain. (HD) Behind the Music Akon. (N) (HD) Couples Therapy (N) Couples Therapy sweet tooth? These rich, YES MLB Baseball New York Yankees at Baltimore Orioles from Oriole Park at Camden Yards (Live) Yankees Post Game buttery cookies are a aa aaa aaaa Key: Movies shaded. Ratings: no stars, unrated; poor; fair; good; excellent. (N) New show. FYI Television, Inc. known for their wonder-