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Service Manual
SERVICE MANUAL FOR SINGER MODEL 471U THE SINGER COMPANY From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC CONTENTS (C MECHANISMS 1) 1 |T| Needle bar mechanism 1 fll] Clutch and brake 29 m Rotary hook mechanism I fi2] Cutter safety device 29 ITj Needle zigzag mechanism 2 [III Needle bar 31 |T| Feed mechanism 3 ini Rotary hook shaft 32 m Clutch mechanism 4 [i^ Upperclamping foot and lower B Cutter mechanism (1) 6 thread cutter 33 B Cutter mechanism (II) 7 [I^ Base needle plate and cutter [Tj Upper thread cutter mechanism 8 position control 34 B Lower thread cutter mechanism 9 Oil Upper clamping foot position control ... 35 [lo] Presser bar lifter mechanism 9 M Rotary hook 35 [li] Lubrication 36 Tension releasing mechanism 10 [2ol Needle sidewise movement ((DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURES)). adjustment 36 (HI Needle zigzag reference m Covers position adjustment 36 m Lower thread cutter HH Scissors assembly position control 38 m Presser HD Scissors guide position control 38 B Rotary hook [24] Covers 39 B Upper thread cutter B Length feed ((ADJUSTMENtH) 40 m Clamping foot 14 m Needle sidewise movement B Cutter safety device 15 adjustment 40 [9] Clutch and brake 15 m Needle bar and rotary U Feed 16 hook adjustment 40 Needle bar 16 m Upper clamping foot lifter un Cam relay 17 adjustment 42 M Upper shaft 17 m Cutter adjustment 44 Auxiliary shaft 18 m Buttonhole width and reference M Needle zigzag 18 position adjustment 46 Needle breakage detection 19 m Upper thread cutter adjustment 48 0 Cutter 19 m Lower thread cutter adjustment 50 Lower shaft -
Sewing Cutting & Pressing Equipment
L & HO RIA US TR EH S O U L D D N D IN SSEEWWIINNGG CCUUTTTTIINNGG && PPRREESSSSIINNGG EEQQUUIIPPMMEENNTT CHANDLER MACHINE U.S.A. L.L.C. www.chandlermachineco.com NEW JERSEY MIAMI LOS ANGELES ©2009 Chandler Machine USA -409 Formerly Chandler Machine Company of Ayer, MA PORTABLE BUTTON SEWER Model CM491 PORTABLE, HAND-OPERATED BUTTON SEWING MACHINE • No electricity needed • No experienced operator necessary. • Instant change for sewing both 2 and 4 hole buttons. • Six to ten seconds to sew on a button. • Automatic stop • Automatic thread-break. • Takes full range of button sizes. • Sews all types of flat buttons, • Twelve firm stitches in every button, with last two stitches double-locking button to material. • Exceptionally durable, high quality construction. • Net Weight (head only)- 37 lbs. • The finest, easiest to own and most practical machine for shirts, pajamas, uniforms, underwear and work clothes. Chandler Model CM491 CLASSIC HAND OPERATED BUTTON SEWER • completely portable and automatic Anyone can learn to • no electric plug or connections necessary Heavy operate it in minutes! • no motor to worry about Steel • no belts to break Stand AMAZINGLY FAST! also available Speedy, sure button replacement for eliminates labor and reduces customer CM491 complaints. This machine will meet all your Chandler Sews Them All tailor and cleaners service requirements! It's even easy enough and fast enough to be on a clothing producton line. End View of CM491 BUTTON SEWER / TACKING MACHINE CM24K MODEL CM24K on optional Single Needle, Single Thread stand Chainstitch, Cylinder Bed Button Sewing And Tacking Machines With Vibrating Clamp, Single Pedal Operation 8-16-32 Parallel Stitches Two Or Four Hole Button Sewing Operation Thread cut by scissor action Speed, Max. -
Frequently Asked Questions Lockstitch Sewing Machines
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS LOCKSTITCH SEWING MACHINES Sewing machine operators can often help themselves when their machine does not operate properly. Here are some simple instructions, which if properly used, can save you time and mechanic’s service call. What do I check when the thread breaks? Poor thread quality (too old, or not strong enough). Check for defective needle/needles (bent or blunt). Make sure you are using the correct needle system, See owners manual. Check for the correct passing of the thread. Check thread tension, could be to tight or to loose. Check if thread has jumped out from between the tension discs. Check condition of take-up spring (check spring) Sewing area very dirty, remove needle plate and clean. Check bobbin and bobbin case for damage, replace if needed. Bobbin case may be very dirty; clean the inside of the bobbin case. Check for sharp parts or edges where the thread passes. Check for overheating needle/needles. Check hook timing. See owner’s manual. What do I check when the needles are breaking? Select correct needle size for the type of work being done, Make sure you are using the correct needle system, See owners manual. Make sure the needle is inserted correctly. Check pressure foot is inserted correctly, and lined up with needle hole. Check bobbin in bobbin case, bobbin could be spread too wide, replace with new bobbin. Check needle guard setting. See owner’s manual. Check hook timing. See owner’s manual. Is the machine the correct type for what you are trying to sew? What do I check for skipped stitches? Select correct needle size for the type of work being done. -
Anniescraftstore.Com AWB9
QUILTING | FABRIC | SEWING NOTIONS | CROCHET | KNITTING page 2 page 4 page 2 page 30 page 11 FEBRUARY 2019 AnniesCraftStore.com AWB9 CrochetCraft & Craft Store Catalog inside 2–40 Quilt Patterns & Fabric 41–57 Quilt & Sew Supplies 58–61 Knit 62–83 Crochet Rocky Mountain Table Runner Pattern Use your favorite fabrics to make this runner truly unique! You can use 2½" strips or fat eighths to make this table runner. skill level key Finished size: 15" x 46". Skill Level: Easy Beginner: For first-time 421824 $6.49 stitchers. Easy: Projects using basic stitches. Intermediate: Projects with a variety of stitches and mid-level shaping. Experienced: Projects using advanced techniques and stitches. our guarantee If you are not completely satisfied with your purchase, you may return it, no questions asked, for a full and prompt refund. Exclusively Annie's NEW! Poppy Fields Quilt Pattern This design is composed of basic units that, when combined, rotated and infused with bold and beautiful fabrics, create a sparkling masterpiece. Finished size is 63" x 63". Skill Level: Intermediate Y886416 Print $8.99 A886416 Download $7.99 2 Connect with us on Facebook.com NEW! Owl You Need is Love Quilted Quilt Pattern Owls are all the rage, regardless of the time of year. With These little fellas are meant for Valentine’s Day— Love! or for any other day you choose to display them! Finished size: 40" x 52". Skill Level: Intermediate RAQ1751 $12.49 (Download only) Exclusively Annie’s NEW! Rustic Romance Quilt Pattern These pieced blocks NEW! Have a Heart Quilt Pattern at first glance give Use your favorite color to make this lovely the appearance quilt. -
Needle Keeper
Harvest Accent Rug By Marie Duncan Our indian summer corn is perfect to accent an autumn inspired throw rug. It brings a touch of fall into the house and can be used year after year. Make this autumn rug using the October 2012 free design. Our corn design is the 2012 October Monthly Design #413300. It is free for the month of October 2012 from www.myembroideries.com. Click on the link, Free Monthly Design, on the HUSQVARNA VIKING® website to download it. When you get to the Checkout, enter the coupon code FreeOCT2012 in the box. Click Apply Coupon. After October 2012, the design will be available for purchase on www.myembroideries.com. ©2012 KSIN Luxembourg II, S.ar.l. VIKING, 5D and INSPIRA are trademarks of KSIN Luxembourg II, S.ar.l. HUSQVARNA is a trademark of Husqvarna AB. All trademarks used under license by VSM Group AB. Sewing Supplies: • Three Hole Yarn Foot 413187045 • Clear Seam Guide Foot 413034845 • Do All Quilter's Hoop 920115096 • INSPIRA® embroidery needles, size 90 620071896 • INSPIRA® topstitch needles, size 90 620099096 • INSPIRA® 4mm twin needles, size 90 620105096 • INSPIRA® Tear-A-Way stabilizer 620112296 • INSPIRA® 6” applique scissors 620102696 • Purchased throw rug with NO rubber backing (Ours came from Target) • Four yards of ⅜” wide twill tape or grosgrain ribbon • Yarn • Scraps of fabric for corn and husks • Robison-Anton 40 wt. rayon embroidery thread • Bobbin thread • Sewing thread Let’s Build a Fence: 1. Snap on your Three Hole Yarn Foot. 2. Insert a size 90 topstitch needle. The topstitch needle has a sharp point and will accommodate heavier threads and fabrics. -
Tailoring Series TECHNIQUES for TAILORING UNDERLINING a TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining Is a Second Layer of Fabric. It Is Cut By
tailoring series TECHNIQUES FOR TAILORING UNDERLINING A TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining is a second layer of fabric. It is cut by the garment pattern pieces and staystitched to the wrong side of the corresponding outer sections before any seams are joined. The two layers are then handled as one. As a general guide, most suit jackets and coats look more pro- fessional when underlined. Underlining is especially recommended for lightweight wool materials, loosely woven materials and light- colored materials. For additional information on selecting fabrics for underlining and applying the underlining, see Lining a Shirt 01' Dress HE 72, N. C. Agricultural Extension Service. STAYSTITCHING—Staystitch all outer garment pieces before construction begins. If garment is underlined, stays-titching is done when the two layers of fabric are sewn together. Staystitch 1/3 in. outside seamline (on the seam allowance). Stay- stitch “ with matching cotton thread on all curved *areas that may stretch during construction such as necklines, side seams, shoulder seams, armholes, and side seams of skirt. Use directional stitching always to prevent stretching of fabric and to prevent one layer of fabric from riding. The direction to stitch is indicated by small arrows on the pattern on the seamlines. INTERFACINGS—Select a high quality hair canvas for the front and collar of coats and jackets. The percentage of wool indicates the quality—the higher the wool content of the canvas the better the quality. Since a high percentage of wool makes the hair canvas fairly dark in color, it cannot be used successfully under light-colored fabrics. In these cases use an interfacing lighter in color and lower in wool content. -
CJSH Grades: 9-12
Crawford Central School District Textiles I - CJSH Grades: 9-12 Course Description: Textiles I is an introductory sewing course for students who may or may not have experience with sewing. Skills introduced in Textiles I include: hand sewing, mending, basic embroidery skills, basic crochet, introduction to the sewing machine, and simple quilting techniques. Unit Title: Introduction to Textiles I Time: September Essential Questions: What do I want to accomplish in this course? Resources: computers, Pinterest Content Skills Vocabulary Assessment Standards Project and Skill Goals for Students will create a visual “To Finished Product PA Core Standards the academic year Do” list for the year using Rubric Scoring National Standards ‘Pinterest’ (or resource materials in the classroom) and a copy of the Level I Skill List Unit Title: Basic Skills Time: September Essential Questions: What are the basic skills necessary to sewing? Resources: Internet, classroom resources, hand-outs Content Skills Vocabulary Assessment Standards Basic Skills • needle threading • rotary cutters Finished Product PA Core Standards • knotting • shears Rubric Scoring National Standards • ironing • pinking shears • types of fabric • embroidery • types of thread hoops • separating 6-ply threads • Thimbles • Tools: rotary cutters, shears, • quilting thimbles pinking shears, embroidery • templates hoops, thimbles, quilting thimbles… • Tracing patterns Unit Title: Hand Sewing: Embroidery Sampler Time: September - October - November Essential Questions: How can I add to my -
Placket Construction Options
Placket Construction Options 1 Type1: Two Separate Bound Edges on a rectangular stitching box The key to this structure is that the bindings are initially stitched only to the seam allowances on each side, and NOT stitched across the end, of the clipped box, which means that they, and the clipped triangle at the bottom, remain loose and can be arranged before the nal nishing to go on either side of the fabric, as well as either over or under the other, after joining them at the sides. The widths and lengths of the bindings and the space between the sides of the clipped box determine all the other options available in this most exible of all the placket types I know of. Variation 1: Both bindings t inside the stitching box If you cut the bindings so the nished, folded widths of both are equal to or smaller than the space between the initial stitching lines, as shown above, you can arrange both ends at the clipped corners to all go on one side of the fabric (right or wrong side), along with the clipped triangle on the garment. You’ll get the best results if the underlapping binding is slightly smaller than the overlapping one. This can be man- aged by taking slightly deeper seam allowances when you join this piece, so they can initially be cut from the same strip. Or, you can place one end on each side with the Both ends on RS One end on RS, Both ends on WS triangle sandwiched in between. -
Using the Zip Bind System & Stitch in the Ditch Binding Foot
Using the Zip Bind System & Stitch in the Ditch Binding Foot – Updated Feb. 2017 Congratulations on purchasing the Zip Bind System and Stitch in the Ditch Binding Foot (SND)! These directions are provided to help you use these tools to bind quilts, table runners, jackets, placemats, etc. We hope that you will be inspired to use the tools for a wide variety of quilting, sewing and crafting projects as well. I hope you find these directions and videos useful and have many successful experiences with your new tools! Contact us with any suggestions or comments at 850-433-1414 or [email protected]. Linda Winner, Martelli’s Education Director The written directions are divided into the following parts: Part 1: Directions, Videos, an Intro Part 2: Three Ways* to Bind Projects Part 3: The Tools Part 4: Getting Started Part 5: Step-by-Step Directions - written in order of the process Part 6: General Q & A Part 7: What Do Judges Look For? Part 1: Directions, Videos, & an Intro In the past, we offered DVDs but YouTube makes watching and updating videos on cell phones, iPads, etc. so easy! Plus, if we offered a DVD, every time we filmed a video, your DVD would be out of date! Here’s How to Find Written Directions and Videos Online: 1. I recommend going to my website – http://winnerdesigns.com/directions/ - and downloading the latest version of written directions. You’ll find them under Martelli. From your computer, you can click on any link that is underlined in blue. It will take you directly to the related videos. -
MAINTENANCE, ADJUSTMENT and REPAIR of INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES by WAYNE SNYDER, MASTER RIGGER US ACADEMY of PARACHUTE RIGGING
MAINTENANCE, ADJUSTMENT AND REPAIR OF INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES by WAYNE SNYDER, MASTER RIGGER US ACADEMY of PARACHUTE RIGGING Presented at the PIA INTERNATIONAL PARACHUTE SYMPOSIUM RENO, NEVADA February 2007 MAINTENANCE, ADJUSTMENT AND REPAIR OF INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES PREMISE: You know how to sew and you are working with an “E” thread lock stitch sewing machine and it was sewing and now it’s gone bad. You probably just changed something – 98% of the time just go back and inspect and correct what you just did and you will be back in business. COMMON CASE SCENARIOS: A. Bobbin change B. Top thread change C. Jam D. Broken needle and/or changed needle Before we get into these specific areas, let’s go back and remember the basic way the machines work. All lock stitch machines make the same stitch. 301, 304, or 308: these are just lock stitch machines. “THE FLOW ACTION” • The needle does down • The needle goes below path of hook (Figure 1) • Needle bottoms out (B.D.C.) • Needle comes up (3/32 inch - common measurement), loop forms on hook side of needle (non-long groove side of the needle) (Figure 2) • Hook picks up top thread loop and carries it around bobbin case. (Figure 3) • Hook drops top thread off (Figure 4) • Thread take-up arm takes out slack and sets stitch in goods. (Figure 5) • Think of the bobbin thread as a long straight rod with the top thread spiraled around it. Sew a piece of paper with two different color threads – rip paper to remove it and there is your example. -
Single Needle Machines
Since 1898 ® HORIZONTAL HOOK, DROP FEED, SINGLE NEEDLE MACHINES MODEL CN3115RB SINGLE NEEDLE, DROP FEED, LOCKSTITCH MACHINE WITH For general utility work. CENTRAL LARGE BOBBIN Designed for sewing light to medium-weight OSCILLATING SHUTTLE materials such as cloth synthetics and LINK TAKE-UP LEVER leather. Suitable for use by tailors, drycleaners, ROTARY STITCH CONTROL alteration rooms, general factory work, etc. REVERSE FEED Speed, Max. (S.P.M.) 1800 * Clearance Under Foot 1/4" (6.5mm) Needle Bar Stroke 1 15/32" (37.4mm) Stitch Length, Max. 6 s.p.i. (4 mm) Needle 16 x 87 MODEL 315R MODEL 318RK HIGH SPEED, SINGLE NEEDLE HIGH SPEED, SINGLE NEEDLE, DROP FEED, NEEDLE FEED DROP FEED, LOCKSTITCH MACHINE (COMPOUND FEED), REVERSE FEED With EDGE TRIMMING DEVICE, LOCKSTITCH MACHINE AUTOMATIC LUBRICATION SYSTEM, REVERSE FEED Horizontal axis Edge trimming device is located transverse rotary alongside the needle and is hook easily engaged or Synchronized drop disengaged even during the and needle feed sewing cycle (push-button assures even control) feeding of slippery Carbide tipped upper knife and and difficult to feed tool steel lower knife materials Trimming margin (distance from Fully automatic the needle to the knife) can lubrication with easily be changed recirculating pump A perfectly balanced mechanical system is used for the knife mechanism For stitching light to medium assuring vibration -free weight fabric, knits, operation with straight and synthetics, vinyl, canvas, uniform trimming denim and coated and laminated material This machine is for stitching and Speed, Max. (S.P.M.) 4000* Suitable for attaching pockets simultaneous edge trimming. Clearance Under Foot Hand 5/ " (8mm) to shirts, sewing collars and Speed, Max. -
Sewing Focus Swimwear
S EWING F OCUS TECHNICAL SEWING INFORMATION Swimwear Checklist for Sewing Swimwear Sewing Parameters: SCHMETZ Tip: Needle size NM SIZE 60 – 80 8 – 12 Depending on the thickness of the material. We recommend the use of the SCHMETZ SERV 7 needle. Needle point In the production of swimwear needles with ball points are mostly used. Those are the light ball point “SES” as well as the medium ball point “SUK”. When sewing elastic materials with highly elastomeric threads or rubber threads we recommend especially the heavy ball point “SKF” and the special ball point “SKL”. Sewing thread Needle thread and hook/looper thread are mostly core spun threads made from 100 % polyester, micro-fiber sewing threads and texturized sewing threads made from 100 % polyester or polyamide. Machine Many processes are carried out using industrial high-speed sewing machines. As the range in swimwear is however very comprehensive a number of automats as well as special sewing machines for closing seams and hems are required. The ideal sewing speed is around 3,000–4,000 stitches/min. Other factors: Thread tension The necessary thread tension depends on the fabric, the sewing thread and the sewing machine. The thread tension should be as low as possible to allow an optimal stitch formation. Stitch type Double lockstitch (stitch type 301 and 304), double chain stitch (stitch type 401), types of overedge chain stitch and cover stitch (class 500 and 600); all stitch types and classes according to DIN 61400. Stitch density The higher the stitch density the higher the elasticity and strength of the seam.