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Yours to 60 | Summer /Autumn 2017

TREASURE ISLAND Discovering the

ALSO IN THIS MAGAZINE: SAILING TO ST KILDA FINE ULSTER SPE OFFSHORE EUROPE 2017

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WELCOME SGIOBA EASTERN SGIOBA EASTERN chluinntinn. againn, ismuarn-iris, a beachdan munt-seirbheis an-còmhnaidh toilichteur eadar-dhealaichte –thasinn cùramach agusbeagan seirbheis, andàchuid, dòchas gummeassibhar clàraichte naRA.Thasinnan prìomh làn-sheirbheiseanadhair Airwaysammeasg Tha Eastern Eòrp. bho Bhreatainn agusanRoinn air arluchd-cleachdaidhgulèir Airwaysa’curfàilte Tha Eastern FÀILTE Welcome to Eastern Magazine! Airways Spurn Head,atthemouthofRiverHumber.Spurn we alsotrek across thesandstoEngland’s “newestisland”– population wasobligedtoleavenearly90yearsago.And to StKilda,theremote Scotsarchipelago whosepermanent that youmightstruggletoplaceonmap.Prideofgoes we’ve alsobeenvisitingsomeoftheislandsoff ourshores of Man,whichisthesubjectourExplorationExpress, while Meanwhile, we’vebeenenjoyingtheairline’s returntotheIsle begins tofilterbackintothesector. coverage previewing thejamboree, asameasure ofoptimism premier event,Offshore Europe. We haveninepagesof September seesthereturnofoilandgasindustry’s passengers across ’s globalnetwork. a greatly increased Airways choiceofconnectionsforEastern promising agreat jointfuture forbothleadingUKairlinesand Airways’service,while atthesametime enjoy inEastern this alliancewillbothsafeguard thequalitiesourcustomers partnership withFlybe.Whilenegotiationsare beingfinalised, We Airways’new openwiththeexcitingnewsofEastern Airways Magazine. Summer andAutumnissueofEastern Welcome onboard Airwaysflight and tothis yourEastern TÎM EASTERN am eincylchgrawn. sylwadau ameingwasanaethac amser ynfalchogaeleich yn wahanol–rydynnibob yn ungofalusacychydigbach gwelwch chifodeingwasanaeth wasanaethau. Gobeithioy DU sy’ncynnigamserlenlawno prif gwmnïauawyrennau yn y Airwaysymhlith y Mae Eastern Brydain FawracEwrop. cwsmeriaid ymmhobrhano magazine, ibobuno’n Croeso Airways ganEastern CROESO EASTERN-TEAMET servicen ogmagasinet. dine kommentarer ombåde Vi setteralltidprispååmotta ekstra somerprikkenoveri-en. – ogatdentilbyrdegdetlille være medservicenvår fornøyd ruteflyselskap. Vihåperatduvil Storbritannias ledende Airwayseretav Eastern velkommen. Storbritannia ogEuropa ønsker våre kunderi Airwaysmagasinet Eastern VELKOMMEN THE EASTERN TEAM EASTERN THE enjoy. encourage youtotakeyourmagazinehomeforothers Airwaysand we hopeyouenjoyyourflightwithEastern So, there’s plentyforeveryonetogettheirteeth into– far… Forest toreclaim hisancestralrights,butdoesn’t getterribly The idiosyncraticKevinPilley, meanwhile,headsfortheNew around Ireland. Northern destination, GlasgowandjoinGeoff Hillonagourmettrip at theTrossachs, inthehinterlandofanotherreturning wonderful littlerailwaysofSnowdonia.We alsotakealook rooms”, areal gaol,red squirrels inAngleseyandthe covering subjectsasdiversethenewcrazeof“escape We haveanumberofothermini-features inthisissue, town ofBishopAuckland. transformation thatcontinuestoboosttheCountyDurham the largest pieceofoutdoortheatre intheUK,andpartof Jonathan Jonesfindsoutwhat’s newatKynren, probably

L’ÉQUIPE EASTERN et notre magazine. comment­ toujours heureux derecevoir vos fait ladifférence, etsommes besoins, aveccepetitplusqui trouverez attentifs àvos Nous espérons quevousnous un servicedevolsréguliers. aériennes britan­ principales compagnies AirwaysfigureEastern parmiles magazine. Airways de lapartEastern Grande-Bretagne etd’Europe Bienvenue àtousnosclientsde BIENVENUE aires sur notre service niques offrant niques offrant CONTENTS CONTENTS

20 KILDA CULTURE 10 BON APPETIT BELFAST 14 MANX MARVEL

REGULARS FEATURES

SPE5-8 Offshore Europe SEPT 05 NEWS 2017 September 5-8, 2017 12 EXIT GAMES What’s happening around Eastern Escape Rooms are the latest craze Airways destinations to get into – and out of

07 AND 13 GAOL HOUSE ROCKS  with a conscience, favourite An old prison pulls in the visitors Belfast plus all the in Aberdeenshire latest news from around our destinations 20 FROM THE EDGE Stan Abbott visits the remote 17 EXPLORATION EXPRESS archipelago of St Kilda Stan Abbott enjoys his return visit

to the Isle of Man EASTERN AIRWAYS MAGAZINE TEAMS UP WITH REED EXHIBITIONS 24 SANDY SHORE TO BRING READERS A PREVIEW OF SOME OF THE HIGHLIGHTS OF SEPTEMBER’S SPE OFFSHORE EUROPE 2017 EXHIBITION AND CONFERENCE A visit to Britain’s latest island 26 ESSENTIAL GUIDE: AT ABERDEEN’S CONFERENCE AND EXHIBITION CENTRE… LAND FRAGMENTS 28 FOREST FINDS Barely inhabited islands off our 35 SPECIAL FEATURE Kevin Pilley goes in search of his shores SPE OFFSHORE EUROPE 2017 namesakes in the New Forest

45 BARE ESSENTIALS 30 LITTLE TREASURE Eastern Airways’ network map, Lock Ard in the passenger information, essential goings-on and destination guides 32 KYNREN RETURNS The Epic Tale of England retold 54 THE LAST WORD Harry Pearson turns the spotlight 34 SEEING RED on Redcar’s legend of the stage The battle to save the red squirrel and screen 44 GETTING UP STEAM Tracking down Snowdonia’s preserved railways

Eastern Airways in-flight magazine is published © July 2017. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine Eastern Airways, Schiphol House, Humberside for Eastern Airways by Gravity Magazines, Arch may be reproduced by any means, without prior written International , Kirmington, North Lincolnshire Workspace, Abbey Road, Pity Me, Durham, DH1 5JZ permission of the copyright owners. DN39 6YH www.gravity-consulting.com Although every effort has been made to ensure the Communications Manager: Darren Roberts e-mail: [email protected] accuracy of the information in this magazine, neither the Tel: +44 (0)191 383 2838 publisher, nor Eastern Airways can accept any liability for Telephone: + 44 (0)8703 669669 errors or omissions. Reservations: + 44 (0)8703 669100 Publisher: Stan Abbott www.easternairways.com Design: Barbara Allen ISSN: 2044-7124 For magazine comments: Print: Buxton Press Previously known as e-magazine, ISSN 1477-3031. Front cover: beach, Isle of Man [email protected]

4 To advertise in Eastern Airways Magazine, call Liz Reekie on +44 (0) 7563 796103 / +44 (0) 1434 240947 or email [email protected] NEWS

FLYBE AND EASTERN AIRWAYS ROUTES IN SCOTLAND (YELLOW), SHOWING ONWARD CONNECTIONS (WHITE) NEWS FROM EASTERN AIRWAYS DESTINATIONS NEWS FROM EASTERN AIRWAYS

EASTERN AIRWAYS TEAMS UP WITH FLYBE Eastern Airways has signed a Heads of All these routes are bookable now at does it strengthen Flybe’s network, but Terms agreement with Flybe forming an Flybe.com. it also broadens our distribution and alliance between the two UK airlines. enhances connection opportunities for The new franchise agreement – coming our customers through Flybe’s global The agreement includes a five-year into effect on October 29 – promises a airline association. franchise partnership whereby Eastern range of benefits for Eastern Airways Airways will operate its scheduled passengers, including the ability to “We have specialised in fixed-wing network under the Flybe brand and connect seamlessly with Flybe’s own flying in the oil and gas market for will also provide four aircraft to operate extensive route network at a variety many years and our expertise will a number of existing Flybe routes of hubs. This includes Flybe’s global provide a greater opportunity to further from Aberdeen, Edinburgh, Glasgow codeshare alliances with some of the develop offshore connectivity to Flybe’s and Manchester as part of the new world’s leading carriers. network.” franchise. Customers should continue to book Christine Ourmières-Widener, Flybe Eastern Airways’ own routes will at easternairways.com for all travel CEO, said: “This alliance with Eastern operate with Flybe’s BE flight codes. up to and including October 28 and at Airways is an excellent opportunity. We There are two important dates to Flybe.com for all travel from October already operate flights at a number of remember: September 1 and 29 onwards. common and this will enable October 29. passengers to connect to a greater Eastern Airways passengers will be able number of destinations, across the UK As part of the alliance, Eastern Airways to book multi-sector journeys by means and into Europe, all booked through will operate various routes on behalf of a single transaction on the Flybe Flybe.com.” of Flybe from September 1. These are: website, and will be able to check in on- Aberdeen to Sumburgh and Kirkwall; Negotiations to finalise the agreement line and through-book their baggage for Glasgow to Stornoway, Sumburgh as speedily as possible were ongoing their entire journey. and Manchester; and Edinburgh to as we went to press. The changes are Sumburgh. These services will maintain Richard Lake, Chief Executive of due to come into effect with the start of continuity of historic Flybe-branded Eastern Airways, said: “This alliance the Winter scheduled service season on routes within and to and from Scotland. will benefit both airlines as, not only October 29.

To advertise in Eastern Airways Magazine, call Liz Reekie on +44 (0) 7563 796103 / +44 (0) 1434 240947 or email [email protected] n The winner of a luxury golfing break with Highland Apartments, Inverness, in our last issue was Steven Jones of Newcastle upon Tyne Ardtara , Belfast – see Boom Time in Northern Ireland, page 10 New railway station plan for Leeds Bradford A new railway station to serve is among proposed medium-term measures designed to improve surface access to Yorkshire’s busiest airport. The and ride station would be built on the Leeds to Harrogate line to the north of the existing station at Horsforth, from where there would be improved surface transfer to the airport. NEW NEWCASTLE-BELFAST SERVICE New roads are also proposed in the area of the airport. Eastern Airways is launching a new convenient non-stop service from Newcastle to In the longer term the new Route to NEWS FROM EASTERN AIRWAYS DESTINATIONS NEWS FROM EASTERN AIRWAYS Belfast City Airport. 2030 Strategic Development Plan Services start on September 1 and, on Mondays to Thursdays, flights will depart envisages a fixed rail link all the way to Newcastle at 0945, landing in Belfast City at 1050. Flights leave Belfast City at 1345, the airport. The plan also anticipates a arriving in Newcastle at 1450. Friday services take off from Newcastle at 0900, doubling of current passenger numbers landing in Belfast City at 1005. From Belfast City Friday services depart at 1310, by 2030 to more than 7 million per year. arriving in Newcastle at 1415. Meanwhile, the airport has appointed Fares start from £59 one way. From the same date, services between Newcastle David Laws as its new Chief Executive. and the Isle of Man will operate via Belfast City. David replaces John Parkin, having Mathew Herzberg, Eastern Airways’ Head of Commercial, said: “This new non-stop previously successfully led Newcastle service from Newcastle to Belfast City Airport is not only providing a convenient link Airport for ten years until standing to the heart of Belfast and its busy commercial centre, but Newcastle is also the down last year after 37 years in various gateway to the North East of England for visitors from Northern Ireland. roles there. “Our partnership with Flybe will, from the end of October, also offer greater connectivity on our Newcastle services.” Favourite places Wareham, in Dorset, is the number SIMON’S LEGACY CONTINUES TO GIVE one emerging destination for British holidaymakers in the UK, according to online travel agent, trivago. Three of top ten towns are in Yorkshire, making it the most featured region in the results – Bridlington, Thirsk and Hull – the UK’s Capital of Culture 2017 – are in fifth, sixth and tenth place respectively. The Norfolk coast is the second most featured area, with Hunstanton (fourth) and Cromer (ninth) both seeing great Simon Rawcliffe. Right: young COCO fundraisers – including Sam Rawcliffe – after the increases in popularity. Great North Run The Welsh town of Barmouth, the only The family of a devoted charity Army Major Jim Panton in 2000. destination outside England to feature, supporter is honouring his memory, is the third local favourite, while other Simon was a devoted supporter of raising more than £9,000 for the high fliers include the favoured foodie COCO and now Sam and Lisa, who has international children’s charity COCO destination of Ludlow, Shropshire, in also become a trustee of COCO, are (Comrades of Children Overseas). second place, Minehead in seventh and making great strides towards ensuring Bideford in eighth. Simon Rawcliffe was a Newcastle- children in East Africa receive a good based Captain with Eastern Airways quality education and the best possible at the time of his death from cancer in start in life. Fundraising activities Windmill 2013 and one of the airline’s Jetstream undertaken have included Sam running near the 31 aircraft bears a caricature in his the Great North Run along with his Norfolk memory. friends from Durham University, and a coast group of Eastern Airways’ flight crew His widow Lisa and 23-year-old son running the Race for Life. Lisa and Sam Sam vowed to continue his support of have now exceeded their original target the charity and have completed a variety of £8,000 and continue to raise money of events in aide of the Newcastle- for COCO. based charity, which was co-founded by former athlete Steve Cram and British www.coco.org.uk 6 FOOD AND DRINK BEER FESTIVAL SETBEER TO LOOKS BE BEST YET www.eatgrub.co.uk www.eatgrub.co.uk at online grasshoppers Dutch-reared oven-ready your buy Alternatively www.drbeynonsbugfarm.com Beynon. Sarah Dr presenter, TV by run centre aresearch Farm, Bug the on “hand-reared” bugs of variety a eat can you where Pembrokeshire, David’s St at , Grub surely is to head place the experience, creepy-crawly afull for But www.thebeechtreeinn.co.uk Way? Highland West the on hikers hungry for Food board. specials the on often grasshoppers, crispy of astarter to sample which at venue unlikely an is Glasgow, of north Trossachs, the of edge the on Tree Dungoyne, at Inn, Beech The . our on arrived they before time of a matter only was it that scarcity, food world combat us help –will Asia East South in do they –as insects eating that long so for told n We’ve been a record crowd of4,000tothisyear’s The organisers are hopingtoattract Rugby Club. runs from August11-13atDeeside signed upasthemainsponsor, which Banchory-based BanconHomeshas to beevenbiggerandbetterthanever. This year’s BanchoryBeerFestivalisset FOOD AND DRINK NEWS DRINK FOOD AND Finlayson pictured enjoyingadrinkatthefestivalsiteinBanchory Jo Skinner, SalesandMarketingDirector, BanconHomes;andorganiser Guy From left:AllanClow, ManagingDirector, BanconHomes;organiser MungoFinlayson; www.banchorybeerfestival.com development onHillofBanchorySouth. its latestshowhomeatOaklands Bancon Homeshasjustlaunched Ferret BandandTheBanjoLounge4. signed up,includingTideLines,TheMad festival, andseveralbandshavealready MORDUE OPENS NEWCASTLE BEER VENUE OPENS NEWCASTLE MORDUE bar staff on thesite. to launchatraining academyfor The brothers alsohaveplans Northumbrian Blonde. Bridges, Mordue IPA and Radgie Gadgie,Five portfolio include beers intheMordue of Britaintitle.Other the ChampionBeer Workie Tickethaswon across theUKandits of craftbeerayear sells amillionbottles Mordue produces and the alesonoffer. customers expertadviceon A beer“sommelier”willalsogive food withbeers. Valley, tocreate amenu,whichwillmatch andownerofthesuccessfulFeathersInnHedley-on-the-Hill,inTyne and ownersGarryMatthewFawsonhavesuccessfullylured RhianCradock, Beeronomy willopenintheformerHoodStreet HQofNewcastleBuildingSociety Newcastle. North Shields-basedbrewer Mordue isopeninganew citycentre barvenuein measures just5ftby13ft6ins. are 160ginsand40tonics.Itsfloorarea formal bar–justacounter, abovewhich tables atasinglebanquetteandno of ElvetBridge.Ithasjustthree small inside itsshoeboxpremises attheend tiny barislicensedforjust16drinkers world. AptlynamedTinofSardines, the well bethesmallestsuchvenuein n A new gin bar in Durham City may AnewginbarinDurhamCitymay 8

FOOD AND DRINK GEORGE DRAGON AND SLAYS THE JUDGES FROMGIN GOES STRENGTH TO STRENGTH surrounding thedistillery. apple sourced from theorchards with mountainpineand fresh sharp floralnote,combining African wormwood comeswith a similar toblackcurrant, while the African buchu introduces a flavour In additiontothejuniperaroma, including rare Africaningredients. using 14botanicals, The ginishandcraftedin winning Elephant LondonDry. – avariationonthe award- launched ElephantStrength Elephant LondonDryGinhas Plunkett Foundation, whichsupports and land,withsupport from the raised £200,000 tobuythebuilding Hudswell CommunityPubLtd in 2008.Itreopened in2010after community facilitywhenitclosed The pubwasthevillage'sonly Yorkshire. at Hudswell,nearRichmond,North the award totheGeorge &Dragon, The CampaignforRealAlehasgiven the year. over hasbeennamednationalpubof who formedacompanyandtookit A countrypubrescued by villagers Africa. mountains, nearLakeJozini,South hub, theWildlifeSpirit,in educational centre andcommunity celebrate theirrecently opened their belovedelephantsandofficially in Africa tospendmore timewith team, Tessa andRobinGerlach,are Husband andwifeElephantGin sanctuaries fortheanimals. Elephants, whichaimstocreate safe already donatedtoSpaceFor in Africa,withcloseto€100,000 its proceeds toelephantconservation Elephant Gin donates15percentof Lancashire. Swan withTwo Necks inPendleton, Arms inLowestoft, Norfolk,andthe in Ham,Gloucestershire, theStanford competition were theSalutationInn Runners upintheUK-wide true communityasset." how apubhasbeenresurrected asa George &Dragonisagreat exampleof Paul Ainsworth,ofCamra,said:"The access. Internet library, communityallotments andfree The pubincludesasmallshop, community cooperativesinruralareas. fans. with thepotentialtointerest Islay fruits andthelatterapeatyoffering, with hintsofvanillaandtropical the formerboastingagentlearoma Silver.earned Bothare singlemalts, its stablemateTheEnglish–Smokey English–Original landedGold,while World SpiritsCompetition.The Silver medalsattheSanFrancisco Company haslandedGoldand n industry.” highly skilledchefsforthegrowing Excellence trainingschoolproviding curry capital,withourCentre of Bradford’s titleastheUK’s Kingfisher Housewillhelpcement Director, said:“Ourplansfor Saleem Akhtar, Group Managing across Yorkshire. company withsixrestaurants Jinnah Group isafamily-owned will alsosupporttheeventsspace. A boutiquehotelwith25bedrooms a rooftop diningarea. Mediterranean, andwillalsoboast Chinese, Italian,Mexicanand range offoods,includingKashmiri, The newrestaurant willoffer a chefs inAsiancuisine. Excellence dedicatedtotraining also houseaspecialistCentre of The 35,000sqftdevelopmentwill million conversionofthebuilding. 150 newjobsonthebackofa£2.5 Ely Street, willcreate more than The KingfisherHousescheme,on hotel inBradford. conferencing venueandaboutique restaurant, alongsideaneventsand unveiled planstoopenaworldfood based restaurant chain,has n

Jinnah Group, theYorkshire- Norfolk-based English Whisky Norfolk-based EnglishWhisky FOOD AND DRINK DINING WITH ACONSCIENCE WITH DINING www.social-bite.co.uk barstool seatinginthewindowfor dinerswhoprefer toeat in. salads andhotdishes.It'sagood takeawayoptionandthere’s a rangeofsoupandsandwiches, andagoodselectionof with anutritiousmealfortheday. SocialBite’s lunchesinclude advance forfoodordrinkstoprovide alocalhomelessperson the optionofbuyinga“suspended”mealoritem:payingin formerly homelessandprofits gotocharity. Customers have food madewithlocalproduce. Oneinfourofthestaff were Social Bite,onUnionStreet, isacentrallunchstop,sellingfresh www.boozycow.com to donate£1m annuallyby2018. more than£250,000wenttocharitablecausesand theaimis chilli –undertakethechallengeifyoudare –butlastyear, BoozyCowisallaboutgreatCornerstone. burgers andhot House, GrampianAutisticSociety, andsocialcare charity Aberdeen Cyrenians, CashforKids,children’s charityCharlie sister barsasitsprofits gotocharity. Thebeneficiaries are Blossom inEdinburgh. ButBoozyCowdiffers from its establishments, suchasParamountinAberdeen andCopper Group, whichownsarangeoffashionableScottish surroundings.cocktails inmodern It’s partoftheSperatus with theemphasisonmeat,craftbeersandinnovative Boozy Cow, inLangstanePlace,boastsaninformalmenu, Aberdeen good about in yourself feeling how reveals to Hopper eat outJanice while Eastern flies Aberdeen Airways fromto destinations across the UK andfrom StavangerBergen and in Norway SOCIAL BITE SOCIAL BOOZY COW BOOZY the venueshighlightedbelowshouldprovide foodforthought. has awealthofshops,cafés,restaurants andbarstochoosefrom, butifmakingacharitablechoiceisappealing,then We allmakesdecisionsaboutwhere tospendourmoney–wehaveinfluenceandchoicesmatter. TheGraniteCity

www.thebreadmaker.org.uk budding bakers. disabilities. Andregular bread-making coursesare availablefor as educationalandsocialactivitiestoadultswithlearning social enterprise,theBread Makerprovides training aswell and italsosuppliesseverallocalhotelsrestaurants. Asa a cafeonsite,sellingsandwiches,softdrinksandlightlunches, Rosemount Brownie, containingsixcereals andseeds. There’s to sourdough, oatybread, malthouseloafanditsrenowned artisan bakingproducts –from yourtraditionalwholemeal loaf, The Bread Maker, onRosemountViaduct,sellsarangeof Buying afreshly madeloafofbread isoneoflife’s littleluxuries. THE BREAD MAKER THE BREAD www.flycup.org Blackhall IndustrialEstate,Burghmuir Circle. makes itagoodpit-stopforfamily daysout.You’ll finditon The cherryonthecakeisFlyCup's charmingplayroom, which also provides outsidecateringforlocaleventsandbusinesses. difficulties, andprovides themwithessentialworkexperience.It bakes. FlyCupteachescateringskillstotraineeswithlearning stop forlunch,asitsellsasumptuousrangeofcakesandtray Heading intotheShire, Fly Cup,inInverurie,isagoodplaceto FLY CUP CATERING FOOD AND DRINK BOOM TIME IN NORTHERN IRELAND NORTHERN IN BOOM TIME our man in Belfast, takes us on a tour of his favourite restaurants favourite restaurants on of atour us his takes Belfast, in man our Hill, Geoff Tayto cheeseandonioncrisps,regularly nearest cardiac unit,andlocallymade slip ofpaperbearingthenumber was theUlsterfry, usually servedwitha Ireland’s contributiontoworldcuisine There wasatimewhenNorthern good restaurants. same day, youcanenjoytheboomin hail, snowandsunshine,usuallyonthe There. Nowthatyou’re prepared forrain, them. Ireland,to Northern theanswerisallof If you’re wonderingwhatclothestobring rib steak, atMeatLocker. and theHimalayan salt-agedDelmonico misto withchillioil andaioliinLoveFish, my all-timefavourite mainsare fritto The menuinEipicchangesweekly, but thanapostrophes. Fish. ThankheavensMichael’s betterat Deanes MeatLockerand Love The othersare theself-explanatory Belfast citycentre. in hisflagshipDeanesHQbuilding, Danni Barriandoneofthree restaurants regained itforEipic,headed bychef After losingthestar, Michael’s now three daysrunning. Moore, whohadlunchand dinnerthere which timecelebrityfansincludedRoger Michelin starfrom 1997to 2011,during 2005, andMichaelDeane,whohelda was tragicallykilledinacarcrash Millar’s Shanksrestaurant, before he Stars followedforRankinprotégé Robbie years later. in 1989andwinningaMichelinstartwo everything, openingRoscoff, inBelfast, Then PaulandJeanneRankinchanged most. named byexpatsasthethingtheymiss Last time Iwasin,highlights ofthefive- secured in 2016. critics predicted theMichelinstaritfinally Local folkpackediteverynightand Deanes. affable andcharmingformermanagerof AlainKerloc’h,the and Brittany-born former headchefatJamesStreet South, opened in2013byStephenToman, starred restaurant isOX,alsoinBelfast, Ireland’sNorthern onlyotherMichelin- Deanes atQueensandDeane&Decano. Deanes DeliBistro, Deanes DeliVinCafé, operates fourothereateriesinthecity: the MichaelDeaneexperience,healso wine, butforaninexpensiveintro to inEipicare £40-60 without Browns Restaurant tasting , £50 or £80 with wines, Lewis Restaurant, included John Dory with broccoli and black The Old Inn olive, an exquisite Chateaubriand and a stunningly presented chocolate, blackberry and malt ice cream pudding, which tasted as good as it looked. Understated and elegant throughout, it was all washed down by perfectly chosen wines, and the overall effect was of having been effortlessly seduced by a beautiful, exquisitely sophisticated courtesan. Happens to me all the time. Next door, the duo’s wine bar is so intimate and inviting that diners have been known to pop in there for a pre- glass of wine, then cancel dinner in OX and just stay in Cave, working their way through the . My other favourites in Belfast include James Street South, which is pricey but classy and old Old Inn, in the sleepy hamlet of After that, it got even better, with every satisfying for a treat, with a at Crawfordsburn, has such a magical deftness course making me : “Wow” several £50 for four courses, £70 with wine pairings, of touch that I predict a Michelin star in his times. At £45 without wine or £75 with for or £55 for five courses, or £80 with wine. celestial orbit. a priceless experience, it was astonishing value. Get in now before a Michelin star Highlights of a stellar dinner there recently On my last visit, they produced some arrives and they realise they’re charging included exquisitely delicate salmon and inspired combinations, such as local crab paupers’ prices for princes’ food. with asparagus, and roasted lemons and cucumber, cured with local Jawbox Gin and grilled cod with pickled rhubarb. visually counterpointed with an edible viola For a romantic treat, Browns also owns flower, and shoulder of lamb as achingly Ardtara, my favourite country house hotel in For fish lovers, a must is the Mourne tender as Juliet’s love for Romeo. the known universe. Seafood Bar. It used to be almost impossible For me, though, the best restaurant in to get a table there, but extra space created www.michaeldeane.co.uk Northern Ireland is Browns, in Londonderry, by an oyster bar upstairs has made getting www.oxbelfast.com where chef-patron Ian Orr creates a sublime in slightly easier. www.jamesstreetsouth.co.uk yet relaxed eating experience, which belies www.mourneseafood.com/belfast Chef-patron Andy Rae’s winning formula the frenzied activity that is the alchemy of www.barkingdogbelfast.com is simple: fresh fish dishes in rustic skill and attention to detail evolving in his www.theoldinn.com surroundings at reasonable prices. I love his diminutive kitchen. ceviche starter and seafood casserole main, www.brownsrestaurant.com and there is steak for non-pescaphiles. The last time I was there, the six-course www.ardtara.com tasting menu was brilliant even before it My favourite restaurant in Belfast, though, started, with a pre-starter of beetroot and Geoff Hill is a critically acclaimed bestselling is the Barking Dog, in the leafy University goat’s cheese meringue, which made me author and award-winning feature and Quarter. laugh out loud at its exquisite combination of travel writer based in Belfast, and the Daily Even if you’re not seduced by the cosy colour, texture and taste. Telegraph’s expert on Northern Ireland. ambience of bare brick walls and scrubbed wooden tables, then the wittiest and friendliest waiting staff in the city will do it for James Street South you – even before you get to chef Michael O’Connor’s food. I particularly recall the ham hock terrine with celeriac remoulade to start, and a succulent dry-aged sirloin as the main, while my better half had seared queen scallops with black pudding, followed by smoked haddock on crushed potatoes, with poached egg and béarnaise. His signature Beef Shin Burger is a thing of beauty that takes three days to prepare, and the amaretto sour is a legend among cocktails. Outside the city, rising star Matthew McKinley, head chef at the lovely 400-year-

Eastern Airways flies to Belfast from the Isle of Man and Newcastle 11 LEISURE GREAT ESCAPES If being locked in a room with just an hour to get out ticks your box, then now is perhaps the time to find an exit game, or escape room, near you! Stan Abbott tries one out…

I have to confess that until an old friend Rooms in Durham City, whose “claim and colleague said he was planning to fame” is that they are probably the to open an escape room in our former smallest such rooms in the country. offices – in a converted lodge house in “Escape Rooms began a couple of years the middle of a roundabout beneath the ago,” owner Sam Lupton told us. “They A1 near Wetherby – I had never even spread across Europe and then into the heard the words “escape room” uttered. UK and now they’re starting to arrive in That’s the thing with crazes these days America.” – they can be half way round the world I reflected that it was a pleasant change before you’ve even blinked. for a craze to head east to west over the solve the next clue, they are able to Yet the Escape Room craze is not pond and raised an eyebrow when Sam intervene by providing new clues or an Internet phenomenon: almost the told me that there were now hundreds of gentle hints via a TV screen. reverse, in fact. Imagine a computer such rooms all over the country – from game in which you are challenged to Land’s End to Inverness and Derry to The “study” is very much like a scene escape from a room by solving a series Dungeness. While some of these are from Holmes or a Dickens novel… of tasks. Call them levels, if you like. Now run as franchises – so you might hatch Unfamiliar with the whole notion of transpose this computer virtual game the same escape plan in, say, Cardiff, getting out, we make a slow start, until into the “real” world. or Manchester – many are independent we begin to find clues secreted around ventures, devised with autonomous flare the room. My top tip: leave no stone Curious to find out what my old mate and ingenuity. unturned! You just don’t know where the was up to, I assembled a group of five clues might be. and we headed for a pair of Escape Sam’s venture definitely falls within this latter category and so is a popular port We turn out not to be especially strategic of call for that new breed of “escape or cooperative and stumble through the room bagger” – people whose mission in challenges until, with the clock counting life is to visit (and exit from) every escape down from ten, we are just milliseconds room in the country. away from working out the combination to the lock that will open the drawer in I had only a hazy idea of what to expect which is the key to the door. when we climbed the steep stairs to Escape Rooms Durham, built in a listed We fail! building on the city’s historic . It seemed the perfect place to find oneself “No, you did well,” reassures Sam, who locked in Mr Borrowdale’s Study. Mr goes on to tell us about his newest Borrowdale, should you be unaware, is game, Lab Heist. It’s so new that, “Durham’s most feared resident” and whereas Mr Borrowdale has a difficulty the challenge we would soon face would rating of 4-5, Lab Heist is as yet unrated. be to escape from his study through a “Your mission,” he says “is to infiltrate combination of ingenuity and teamwork. Durham Bio Laboratories and steal Watching our efforts from what we might as many data discs as you can. call the “control centre” would be Sam Unfortunately you have triggered the and his team. security system, which is slowly filling the laboratory with toxic fumes. Can you “All our staff come from either a theatrical Escape with the data and the life of your or a gaming background,” said Sam, team?” who trained at Manchester School Of Theatre and whose stage appearances Well, the answer to that question will be include Little Shop Of Horrors. He also for another day, but I think we’ll be back! works regularly as a director in regional Escape Rooms Durham – theatre and in audio drama for Radio 4. www.escapedurham.co.uk Other team members are experienced in creating and operating live action role- To find an escape room, or exit game, play gaming. near you, visit www.exitgames.co.uk, which lists more than 600 games in the 12 So, if they see us struggling to find or UK at nearly 300 different locations. A CAPTIVE AUDIENCE… Graeme Smith finds he can get out of gaol free – but you do have to pay to get in to a NEW ATTRACTION prison that’s the latest draw on Scotland’s tourist trail…

For more than a century it was a place headquarters, in North Africa, and rioted again, taking hostage two officers no-one wanted to go to, but now Hermann Göring’s country house. But who were humiliated and beaten. One thousands want to visit. once out of the army he continued to was so badly beaten he was freed but break into properties for less community the other, Jackie Stuart, was held for HM Convict Prison Peterhead, benefit and was a regular visitor to five days and paraded on the roof with a Aberdeenshire was built for 208 Peterhead. However, he was also the rope around his neck. prisoners, but at times housed more first man to escape from the prison. He than double that number. Since opening Prisoners were about to set fire to him escaped and was recaptured a further its doors as a museum in July 2016 it when the SAS arrived, sent by Prime four times. has become the Alcatraz of the north Minister Margaret Thatcher. In an early east of Scotland, drawing more than Visitors can see the cramped conditions, morning assault using stun and CS 50,000 visitors keen to see where the learn about slopping out and stroll grenades they entered the prison’s D country’s toughest criminals were once around the small exercise pens with high Wing, ended the and rescued the incarcerated. walls topped with razor wire. prison officer. The prison was built in 1888 so convict They can view the cell in which a Jackie now volunteers at the museum labour could be used to build a Harbour gruesome murder was committed and most weekends to chat about his of Refuge at Peterhead, and it remained another that shows the impact of a dirty experience as a prison officer. in operation until 2013, when it closed its protest – and modern technology has Latterly the prison became the doors to be replaced by the new £140 even managed to recreate the smell. destination for sex offenders and million HMP Grampian, which was built specialised treatment programmes were next door. Through your audio set you learn about every aspect of life in the prison during offered. Visitors not only get a glimpse into the its 125-year history, and there is often the The prison is open to visitors seven conditions that faced the violent inmates opportunity to chat with an officer who days a week from 1000 to 1800 (last who were locked up in Peterhead, but was the victim of one of its most brutal admission 1630) from April to October also those facing some not so violent periods. and from 1000 to 1600 (last admission career criminals, like Gentle Johnny 1430) from November to March. Ramensky, who used his safe-cracking A series of riots began in 1986, when 15 abilities as a commando during World officers were assaulted, including one The former visiting area is now the War II. who was held hostage for four days. starting point for tours and also a souvenir shop. A café will open in time He was parachuted behind enemy More than £250,000 of damage was for Easter. lines to retrieve documents from a caused when prisoners set fire to A-hall, variety of places, including Rommel’s and less than a year later 50 inmates www.peterheadprisonmuseum.com

Eastern Airways flies to Aberdeen from destinations across the UK and from Stavanger and Bergen in Norway 14

ADVERTISING FEATURE still infineworkingorder today, ensuring and muchofthatVictorianinnovationis ties tosupportitsvibranttouristindustry The Islandbuiltagreat networkoffacili- leaving “themainland”. the senseofadventure associated with elegant grandeurofDouglasBay–and tractive resorts –from cutecovestothe tion, thankstoitsbenignclimate,at- was ahugelypopulationholidaydestina- Back inVictoriantimes,theIsleofMan Sea. ble scenicjewelatthecentre oftheIrish and itsnaturalbeautymakesitaverita- the Island’s historygoesmuchdeeper and theextraordinary LaxeyWheel.But tourism” –theworkingVictorianrailways reminders oftheIsland’s “goldenageof Perhaps itsgreatest attractionsare those more withwhichtoenchantvisitors. so famous.ButtheIslandhasmuch and othermotorbikeraces,forwhichitis and theymaythinkimmediatelyoftheTT Mention theIsleofMantomanypeople destination for visitors ofall ages… beauty,wild great beaches and asafe and secure society, and the Island isthe ideal extensive Victorian steam and electric railway Combine its networks. thiswith The Isle of Man isjustly proud ofitsextraordinary historic legacy – not least its THE AN IDEAL DESTINATION IDEAL AN ISLE OF MAN OF Cregneash, House of Mannanan, Manx Kippers, Images clockwisefromtop:Cregneash, HouseofMannanan,ManxKippers, scale andbeautyoftheworld’largest wheel thatyourappreciate thesheer It’s onlywhenyoustandbeneaththe Isabella, orGreat LaxeyWheel. latter takingvisitorstotheiconicLady lines atGroudle GlenandLaxey, the are complementedbyenthusiast-run narrow-gauge historicrailways,which There’s nodoubtingtheappealofthese resorts ofPortStMaryandErin. capital ofCastletownandthepretty Railway headsfrom Douglastotheold To thesouth,IsleofManSteam vintage andequallybeautifullypreserved. railway intheBritishIsles–are ofsimilar Railway –theonlyelectricmountain while thoseoftheSnaefellMountain Ramsey betweenMarch andNovember, route from DouglasBay15milesto wooden carriagesstillplythecliff-top The ManxElectricRailway’s original in theBritishIsles. a visitorexperiencewithoutcomparison Snaefell mountainrailwayandtheGreat LaxeyWheel wine listandcocktails. sourced menu,withacarefully created back toagoldenage,offering alocally on theSteamRailwayalsotakesyou The recently restored 1905DiningCar ing withthelocalastronomical society. ners, Italian,Sundaylunchandstargaz- include IndianHillStations,SunsetDin- themed lunchesandsuppers.These to September, butalsoarangeofbrilliant only provides great fooddailyfrom April enjoyed amajorrefurbishment andnot of Snaefell,where theSummitHotelhas ride themountainrailwaytosummit An evengrandervistaawaitsthosewho over theIrishSea. climb tothetopofwheelandgazeout with areasonable headforheightscan the Island’s miningindustry. Today, those engineering andonceanessentialpartof water wheel,atriumphof19thcentury

THE ISLE OF MAN AN IDEAL DESTINATION

From the summit of Snaefell, you can, on a If you find yourself fascinated by the Isle of including penguins and lemurs and is a great clear day, see no fewer than seven king- Man’s Celtic or Norse legacies, there are favourite with the kids. doms: England, Scotland, Wales, Ireland, the many historic sites just waiting for you, from A big part of the secret of a good holiday, Kingdom of Mann, that of Mannanán (the Neolithic tombs and Viking longhouses, of course, is finding the right place to stay Sea) and, of course, the Kingdom of God. to the fabulous at Peel and and enjoying the local food and drink. The Rushen, Castletown. Many Manx National The best way to explore the Island by train is Isle of Man will not disappoint with good Heritage sites host events through summer, to get a Go Explore card, which also covers family-friendly hotels and a range of both from garden parties at the Grove Museum, bus routes and the iconic Douglas horse traditional and ultra-modern holiday lets – not to Shakespeare at Peel Castle and Rushen trams. to mention picturesque campsites for those Abbey. who want to be as close as possible to the There were people on the Isle of Man for The Isle of Man is not densely populated so great outdoors. about 10,000 years before the Victorians there are plenty of safe open spaces for kids made their mark and The Island’s pubs and restaurants like to to play – the Island is great for strolling, walk- opens a window on different historic periods draw heavily on the quality local produce, ing, cycling or mountain biking. For serious through its rich portfolio of family-friendly including freshly caught fish and shellfish. It walkers, there’s the , retracing properties. The Manx Museum, in Douglas, is for the kipper, or smoked herring, that the the mountain route taken by the former kings and House of Mannanan, in Peel, are great Island is most famous and the place to find of Mann. Other waymarked routes include places to discover all about the Island’s the best kippers is Peel, where the traditional the Raad ny Foillan (Manx Gaelic for Way of Celtic and Norse roots, while the kids will smokehouses of Moore and Devereau have the Gull), the 95-mile long coastal path; the love a visit to Cregneash, where thatched been busily curing fish for a combined total Heritage Trail (mostly following former railway cottages recall crofting days around the turn of 250 years. Queen scallops, or queenies, lines); and Bayr ny Skeddan, or Herring of the 19th century. Tailless Manx cats and are another local delicacy. Road, from Castletown to Peel. But there can traditional farm animals, including the local be no better places for a gentle stroll than the Okell’s brewery is the oldest and largest of Loghtan sheep, will captivate the kids, while Island’s 18 national glens. These are secret four on the Island, all producing ales that a 1964 recording of Ned Maddrell, the last places of tumbling waterfalls, rock pools and enjoy the Camra seal of approval. Why not native Manx speaker, is a powerful reminder lush foliage, and are found mostly where the come and join us and try one of them for of the Island’s cultural roots. mountain streams tumble steeply to the sea. yourself?! All offer free access to all. The unspoiled Island is a great place for USEFUL ADDRESSES nature-lovers, especially bird-watchers, with Tourist info – www.visitisleofman.com the chough, little tern and Manx shearwater Heritage railways and transport – of particular note. Great places for enthusi- www.gov.im/categories/travel-traffic-and- asts include the northern plain, at , and motoring/bus-and-rail/heritage-railways/ the Calf of Man, where you can arrange to stay at the bird observatory. The Curraghs History and heritage – Wildlife Park is home to more exotic species, https://manxnationalheritage.im/

VICTORIAN INNOVATION IS STILL IN FINE WORKING ORDER TODAY, ENSURING A VISITOR EXPERIENCE WITHOUT COMPARISON IN THE BRITISH ISLES. MANNIN HOTEL – Traditional Manx hospitality in modern surroundings

featuring partial sea views. Why not sit by the window and unwind with your favourite book. We have two designated disabled rooms with full facilities, both over-looking Broadway and featuring some of the best views of the sea from the hotel. Both rooms feature fully accessible walk-in wet rooms with grab rails and alarm pulls, and access to the rooms is convenient, from either the car park or main public areas via the lift. On the ground floor we have an open- planned Liberties Restaurant & Lounge, serving , and dinner for hotel residents and non-residents alike. Mannin Hotel is the newest hotel on technology and comfort features that a the Isle of Man, which opened its doors modern traveller would expect, such as The Liberties Restaurant & Lounge name in Spring 2016. Situated in the heart of air conditioning, fast complimentary WiFi, was inspired by Archibald Knox, one of the Douglas, adjacent to Villa Marina & Gaiety laptop safe and flat screen TV. Island's most famous sons and the man who Theatre, Mannin Hotel offers a modern and created Liberty's legendary Art Nouveau Our internal Atrium rooms are modern and comfortable base from which to explore our style. beautiful Island. have the feeling of luxury and comfort. The majority of the rooms have a private balcony, It’s a superb open-plan space with décor The hotel has a secure underground car park which offers a perfect spot to unwind and inspired by Knox's own designs – offering exclusively for residents, and offers drive-thru’ relax after an adventurous day exploring comfortable, laid back dining overlooking check-in for added comfort and ease. the Island or a busy day at the office. Just sit the Broadway and Villa Marina, with a menu The informal surroundings and friendly staff back, relax and let our team look after you. sourced from the finest Manx ingredients. will make the Mannin Hotel feel like a home The Broadway rooms are situated at the front A light lunch, an intimate evening , a away from home. of the building and overlook the Villa Marina pre-theatre : Liberties Restaurant & All of our 54 bedrooms offer all the latest complex. These rooms are bright and airy, Lounge is designed to please.

8-16 Broadway, Douglas, Isle of Man, IM24EL. Tel: 01624 602555, email: [email protected] www.manninhotel.im, follow us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/manninhotel EXPLORATION EXPRESS this issue’s Exploration Express… issue’s Exploration this for visit about the Isle on of aflying Man Abbott Stan THE ISLE OF MAN Port Erinaftertakeoff from theIsleof Man rediscovers what he loves loves he what rediscovers 17 Clockwise from top left: bikes and boats With the exception of a very not least the steady growth in its population, at Peel quayside; fisherman’s cottages at which had continued pretty much Niarbyl; looking across Calf Sound to the Calf brief encounter on a foggy uninterrupted (until earlier this year, at least) of Man; walkers in the south of the Island with since the mid-1980s. At around 89,000, it Port Erin in the background; North Barrule, day a decade ago, this was my is nearly 20,000 more than on my first ever from Snaefell summit. visit and 10,000 or so more than on my last. first trip to the Isle of Man Where were all these newcomers? And what had brought them all here? growth, population density still remains low and there is plenty of scope to lose yourself A big driver, Stan told me, was the offshore since three family holidays in the landscape. So, having admired the online gaming industry, though I struggled to history lessons in Manx Natural Heritage’s imagine 10,000 computer geeks with an eye when my now-adult House of Mannanán, on Peel quayside, and for the main chance… Indeed, a closer look bought the regulation kippers and smoked at the latest census figures suggests a falling daughters were very small. bacon from the curing house, I headed for a birth rate and a plateau in growth. favourite spot down the coast. A lot of the new arrivals had chosen to settle Three? Well, the number speaks for itself: the On more than 20 days spent on the Island’s in Peel, said Stan, formerly an attractive island seemed a near perfect place to take a west coast I was able to see the Mountains little fishing port on the west coast. I can young family – not too far away, yet, in some of Mourne, across the water, just once. confirm that it is indeed still an attractive little ways, a world apart; safe and easy; and with But today would double that tally: I was at fishing port, but one that also now boasts a lots of things to do to the amusement of both the delightful little cove at Niarbyl, where a sizeable marina replete with yachts, and lots adults and youngsters. couple of thatched fishermen’s huts once of new development overlooking what the featured as an “Irish” location in the film, So taken was I by the Island in those government website now refers to as a city. Waking Ned. The scene was idyllic and the days that I went on to publish eight books Stan and his wife – keen walkers – spoke view along the western fells as they tumbled about the Isle of Man, and in particular its wistfully of country paths now lost amid new towards the sea was as good as you could extraordinary legacy of Victorian railways, developments. still ferrying tourists and local people around find anywhere. But it must be remembered that, for all the after a century and more. Driving through the fells towards Douglas, Landing in warm early summer sunshine with a loan peregrine swooped into view, the best part of the day ahead of me, my first emphasising how quickly the urban Island mission was to catch up with my namesake, turns to wild. Stan Basnett, while being sure en route to Hotel Mannin is a quite new boutique hotel, pass my best wishes to the Little People set just back from Douglas’s enduringly fine on crossing the Fairy Bridge. Stan was the Georgian sea front. Manager Rom Kesa author of many of those eight books and a explains how the hotel, in a bad state of man who knows most there is to know about repair, was effectively completely rebuilt anything that moves on or near the Isle of around a new interior, featuring balconies Man, be it on rail, road or even water. that even boast “deck chairs” overlooking an We chatted about changes on the Island, airy atrium.

Discover the Isle of Man’s most fascinating heritage sites, from Viking longboats to a world-famous waterwheel. At just £20, a Holiday Pass is a great way to discover the Island’s history. For more Wheel information please visit our website; I took a walk that evening along the seafront to North Quay, now the single best town THE SCENE WAS IDYLLIC AND THE VIEW centre location at which to find a choice of eatery. I selected a very chirpy-looking ALONG THE WESTERN FELLS AS THEY bistro, called Samphire. It did not disappoint and I began with a quite superb cheese TUMBLED TOWARDS THE SEA WAS AS GOOD AS soufflé, which was followed by an equally fine gratin of queenie scallops. Service was YOU COULD FIND ANYWHERE fast and friendly and the wine list excellent. I was very sorry to hear of Samphire’s closure the summit itself afforded a great 360° Saxon King Harold defeated the Vikings at not long after my visit: I hope it wasn’t panorama. Stamford Bridge, only to fall to William the anything I said! Conqueror later the same year. The following morning saw me drive the I elected to walk from the summit to Just time then to head for the southern tip few miles to Laxey, where the Lady Isabella Bungalow, the half-way station where the of the island and gaze across the churning (after which my second daughter is, in part tram track crosses the Mountain Road, so waters of Calf Sound to the Calf of Man. at least, named), shone white in the morning famous as a feature of the TT Races. It took With more time I would have visited the sunshine. This huge water wheel once longer than expected so, having missed rather fine circular grass-roofed café, where pumped water from the Laxey mines and my intended train, I thought I’d take a look several score visitors were admiring the was nicknamed after the then governor’s at the motorcycle museum, but found it beautiful sunlit view. And with even more wife. Time dictated that I did not have to test closed, probably for a well-earned post-TT time, I’d have called at Cregneash, the my nerve by ascending its vertiginous spiral rest. wonderful thatched village that recalls the stairs and, rather, I admired the new salmon I beat a hasty trail to visit just one of the days when the Island’s people were mostly lake (Laxey comes form the Old Norse for Island’s older antiquities: the extensive simple crofters. salmon lake) and then caught the Mountain remains of Viking longhouses at Braaid, Railway to the summit of Snaefell. It felt like a long journey from there to online in the centre of the Island. They were a gaming. I was pleasantly surprised to find the stark reminder of the truth told at House of Summit Hotel fully revamped, with a new Mannanán – that Viking rule in Mann and kitchen serving very good food, while the Isles endured a full 200-odd years after www.visitisleofman.com

Eastern Airways flies on weekdays to the Isle of Man from Belfast, Glasgow and Newcastle 19 Stan Abbott visits the remotest inhabited of the British Isles ST KILDA and ticks off a line on his bucket list…

It looked like someone had scrawled Tippex in splodgy lines built in County Antrim and Seumas took delivery at the end along the mountain ridges to either side of Loch Ness, as the of 2014 – Sea Harris now offers, he says, “the fastest, last remnants of snow shimmered in the Spring sunshine. greenest and most economical day trip boat operating from Harris”. Cruising at 22 knots, it makes the 45-mile crossing For once, the weather was precisely as forecast – and this to St Kilda in two and a half hours. was vital to the success of Project Kilda. Having previously kept no more than half an eye on the On landing at Stornoway, the windsock hung forlornly Hebridean weather charts, I began watching more beneath a warm and windless sky, like a forgotten kipper in a assiduously at the end of Easter and felt my spirits buoyed smokehouse. Prospects were looking better and better! as high pressure began to build across the north-west of Project Kilda was a product of my having – somewhat Scotland in early May. It looked unusually settled, and so it prematurely, I hope – given a bit of thought to the idea of a was on Tuesday May 2 that I flew via Aberdeen to bucket list. It wasn’t so much the number of entries on this Stornoway, where I bought provisions and drove a little over list that was causing me concern, as the seemingly relentless an hour to West Harris – minus a booked bed, but plus my acceleration in the passage of time. two-man tent, unused for about 20 years. Some of the entries – safari in Botswana, a flight in a Dragon The campsite at Horgabost most be among the most scenic Rapide or dining at Noma – could be ticked off reasonably on the planet and I found myself a pitch immediately easily, simply by creating time and finding the money. overlooking the wide, white expanse of the beach. Getting to the archipelago of St Kilda, however, posed an On previous visits to the beautiful Isle of Harris I’ve stayed at additional challenge: the voyage to this British outpost in the Hotel Hebrides, by the ferry landing at Tarbert, and at Blue North Atlantic is always at the whim of the weather. And the Reef Cottages, not far from here on the magnificent west weather in these parts is indeed whimsical, being capable of coast. It was while staying at the latter that co-owner Neil delivering high seas and hurricane force winds in equal Campbell told me about a development of affordable homes measure. for local people by the West Harris Trust, which manages a big chunk of land in West Harris for the benefit of the I had secured my passage courtesy of Seumas Morrison, community. whose Sea Harris company runs seasonal day trips to St Kilda from the little port of Leverburgh. Seumas had given Besides affordable homes and studios for artists, the me a list of dates on which I might ride beside him on the development includes a restaurant with quite stunning navigator’s seat aboard his high-speed Redbay Stormforce sunset views, the Machair Kitchen. And here’s the happy 1650, Enchanted Isle. The boat was specially designed and coincidence: it is run by Hotel Hebrides as a satellite of its

20 Stan Abbott visits the remotest inhabited outpost of the British Isles and ticks off a line on his bucket list…

Cleits above Village Bay on Hirta Inset: a tent with a view in West Harris THERE IS ENDURING FASCINATION WITH THE EXTRAORDINARY LIFESTYLE OF THE ISLANDERS, WHO SURVIVED BY CLIMBING DOWN CLIFFS TO CATCH SEABIRDS

The people of St Kilda, right, survived on seabirds and their eggs, harvested from the towering cliffs

own rather good restaurant in Tarbert. And it seabird colonies in the world. probably more metres of film exposed too. was just a mile’s walk from my tent! There is enduring fascination with the Today, a couple of early-season yachts lie at extraordinary lifestyle of the islanders, who Having enjoyed a meal way beyond what anchor as we edge towards the little pier at survived by climbing down cliffs to catch might have been reasonable expectations the centre of Village Bay and prepare to seabirds – they even evolved a different disembark aboard a RIB. It is forbidden to for such a remote spot (and including a bowl bone structure in their feet, with wide spaces moor at the pier itself, lest pests like rats of the finest local mussels) I watched the sun between the toes, helping them to climb should make it ashore and threaten the go down over the broad Atlantic, my ultimate ropes. And there is immense sadness at the native fieldmouse and wren (both are rather destination somewhere beyond the horizon. slow decline of a community and its ultimate special insular species, double the size of demise in the space of only about a hundred The call of a cuckoo fills the air as, just after their mainland cousins), or indeed the eggs years. eight, a flotilla of three boats edges out of of seabirds. the harbour at Leverburgh, through the Clambering ashore, I can’t help but be The causes for the decline were various but sound of Harris and into the open ocean. immediately struck by the enormity of the Victorian age tourism undoubtedly played a The conditions, says Seumas, are as good power station plonked by the military right in big part, introducing islanders to money in as they possibly can be for visiting St Kilda: the middle of the World Heritage Site. An place of the tradition of paying at least part there is no more than perhaps a two-metre archaeologist with the Scottish National of their rent to their landlord, the MacLeod of swell as we head west, pausing only to Trust informs us that the military installations MacLeod, in down and feathers. admire a small school of porpoise at play. – personnel are stationed here to track Given that it was estimated that each person “The boys on the other boats will be telling rockets test-fired from the Isle of Benbecula on St Kilda ate 115 fulmars every year and us they’ve seen 50 porpoise, maybe orcas,” – are about to undergo a complete rebuild. that the annual puffin harvest in the mid-19th By the end of Summer 2018, the rows of jokes Seumas. “It gets very competitive!” century was close to 90,000 birds, that’s a green huts and the power station monolith lot of feathers! It’s a full two hours before the St Kilda will have been replaced by much less archipelago shimmers into view and we sail intrusive structures, designed to be Contact with the outside world saw the past Borerary and into the horseshoe haven sympathetic to their surroundings. islanders becoming more reliant on imported of Village Bay, on the main island of Hirta, goods, while also being lured away by the The base was built back in the 50s and 60s, from where, in 1930, the last 36 residents prospects of an easier life. However, the rot when Cold War preoccupations trumped were evacuated to the Scottish mainland. probably began to set in with the arrival of natural beauty and heritage every time. the first priests, who extinguished the rich The departure of the people marked an end Today military personnel and scientists (of cultural traditions of music and dance, and to at least two millennia of human whom more later) are the only souls to brave smothered the villagers beneath a blanket of occupation – a fact astonishing enough in its the St Kilda winter, the National Trust fundamentalist zealotry that permitted the own right, given the nature of the elements presence being confined to the (relatively) singing only of psalms. that afflict the four islands of St Kilda where benign summer months. The motley land flat enough to cultivate is at a premium. collection of day visitors is told we can Disease also took its toll and when the It is thanks to this remarkable story of defiant wander where we like, except within the remaining islanders finally asked the British Government to organise their evacuation, it human habitation that St Kilda has, since loosely defined military area. was only the very young and very old who 2005, been one of only a handful of double What has drawn us all here? Well, there has remained. Unesco World Heritage Sites, recognised for surely been more written per head of both its cultural legacy and a rich natural population about St Kilda than just about After their departure, the neat arc of houses 22 heritage, including some of the largest any other location in the world. And indeed, in Village Bay fell into disrepair though, more recently, some houses have been neatly sheer to the sea, amid a huge company of understanding of their modern domesticised renovated and now house the occasional gannets, squawking and making squirls, descendants. civilian population. The last survivor of the their yellow heads glinting in the sunshine. Jill is a parasologist, who is not, as she evacuation, Rachel Johnson, died as From here, you can stick close to the cliff quickly corrects me, someone who studies recently as last year at the age of 93, having edge and head for the summits of umbrellas, but rather someone who studies been eight when she left the islands. Connachair and Mullach Mor, each graced parasites. In her case, sheep parasites. I A procession of day-trippers snakes up by white radomes, connected to the military share with her the number and location of the steep slope of the natural base by a steep road. the corpse I found and, indeed, a second one closer to Village Bay, and wonder why amphitheatre, behind Village Bay. We I gaze down on the panorama of Village Bay, they might have died. are aiming for a nick in the horizon, at the heart of the remains of the volcanic from where, we were promised, we caldera that loosely enclosed its glinting “He was one of the frisky young bucks,” would get a good view of the Isle of turquoise lagoon. Beneath such a sun it she tells me, explaining how these ambi- Boreray and of the cliffs on the island’s might just be Santorini – though minus the tious opportunists would seize their moment east side, home to what was the overpriced hotels. to “seduce” yews behind the backs of the world’s largest colony of gannets until herd’s four dominant males. But passing on recently overtaken by Bass Rock, in the Firth I choose a more direct route towards the his genes has come at a price as he was too of Forth. mountains, taking me past several lines of exhausted to survive the harsh Spring, wait- cleits, the stone storage huts found only ing for the new grass to come. “He would As I near the crest of the ridge, however, I on St Kilda. I have been aware of these have died happy, though!” she adds. am aware of another avian presence: a structures, which were to the St Kildans as bonxie, or great skua. Anyone who has ever wooden slatted meat-drying sheds are to the Jill is the nearest St Kilda has to a permanent roamed the moorlands of the northern or people of the Faroe Islands. But I have never resident and has been studying her flock for western isles will know to be wary of this expected to see so many: they run in lines 27 years. Her “second home” is in Hexham, aggressive aerial thug. Unlike many other from Village Bay in every direction, right to Northumberland, where she has, she says, birds that will dive-bomb you but pull out the very mountain tops, more than 1,000 feet a husband. I reflect that hers must be an before impact, the bonxie just going above the village. More than 1,200 of them unusual kind of marriage. and hits you as hard as he can. I’ve been have been counted. It adds a whole new “Yes,” she muses. “If I’ve been on home thus attacked in Shetland and the Faroe meaning to the idea of popping to get food leave for six weeks, my husband starts to Islands, but this bonxie lets me approach from the larder: it could have been an all-day ask ‘When are you going back to that island reasonably close, probably because he is yet expedition. to mate and has of yours?’.” Bonxie I stumble across the remains of a Soay no nest to protect. I wander back along the empty street of sheep, the ancient breed unique to the Indeed, he is soon broken crofts and admire the neatly reno- islands, and make a note of his ear tag on his way, vated half dozen that are home to Jill and number. Arriving back in the village I chance conducting an her colleagues. I buy and post home sepia to meet a woman who seems weighed impressive postcards of the villagers to remind myself down by camera, lenses and binoculars. It aerobatic display that I have, indeed, made this voyage to the transpires I am in the company of no less with a female. very edge of Britain. than Jill Pilkington MBE, head of the Soay At the skyline the Sheep Project, which is a long-term study of www.seaharris.com land plunges the little wild sheep, in part to gain a better www.kilda.org.uk

Eastern Airways flies daily to Stornoway, Monday to Friday, with connections from across the UK and Norway

Restored and ruined houses at Village Bay, Hirta 23 SPURN HEAD

SPURN HEAD A TALE OF SHIFTING SANDS Following the precarious path to Britain’s newest island…

Unlike St Kilda, Spurn Head probably on the remains of a moraine that once qualities seemed rather tenuous. doesn’t merit a bucket list entry... after stood at the edge of a huge glacier. But Walking through the dunes, we emerged all, getting to Britain’s “newest island” the process appears to have a 250-year onto the shingly spit that joins “Spurn demands no more than driving about cycle, during which Spurn Head has Island” to the mainland. I was expecting 25 miles beyond Hull and then, tides always been, at intervals, an island. a relatively narrow breach, but in reality a permitting, walking two and a half miles Base camp for Project Spurn Head good half mile of duneland has vanished, in either direction to reach the lighthouse. was a very pleasant Airbnb, called East leaving nothing to bind the land-bridge Spurn Head has been an occasional Lodge, near the tiny village of Winestead, firmly together. You can see the remains island ever since the tidal surge of 2013 close to Sunk Island – an area of land of sea defences erected during the First severed the isthmus connecting the reclaimed from the Humber some World War, but these are now well to the tadpole shaped-peninsula to Holderness. time ago and itself a reminder of the east of the high point of the spit, whose The sea took away the grassy dunes and ephemeral qualities of “dry land” in these natural tendency is creep westwards. parts. the road they bore, leaving Spurn Head The walk across the shingle proved quite definitively connected to the rest of East The world here has the air of passing hard going, though sticking quite close to Yorkshire only at lower tides. Access at a slower pace and, passing through the water line on the western side offered to the lighthouse, lifeboat station and the village of Easington towards the car probably the firmest footing. Humber pilots’ watch is possible only on park for Spurn Head, there are signs that Clambering up onto the intact section foot or by Landrover when the waters some natives are restless, amid clear of the peninsula, a tidal shelter for don’t cover the sandspit. There was suggestions that the onslaught of the walkers offered a stark reminder of the further damage during a storm surge sea is not the only issue disturbing the precarious nature of the link. The area of earlier this year and the official policy is tranquillity. now to “let nature take its course”. dunes widened progressively, offering Large posters declare opposition to shelter from what was just the gentlest In reality, the Spurn peninsula has plans for a new visitor centre. Given that of breezes as we walked south beneath always been a less than permanent the current Yorkshire Wildlife Trust visitor a warm early summer sun. Knots of coastal feature: it is the product of centre is no more than a converted birdwatchers trekked back and forth huge quantities of silt – from coastal shipping container and that the site of and – as a kestrel patrolled up and down erosion further north – washing down the new centre is some distance inland, the length of the peninsula – swallows the Yorkshire coast with every tide. At the suggestion that the development and skylarks were among smaller birds Spurn that silt settles rather precariously would compromise the area’s wilderness filling the sky beneath it. A rich carpet

24 View from Spurn Head back across the sandpit to the mainland of colourful flowers and grasses belied the while an informative video gave rise to Indeed, I was reminded by the artist whose flimsy nature of the land, while a collapsed a rather surreal feel, thanks to being work was on display that this end of the stretch of road predating the recent damage, projected onto the curved internal wall of the peninsula continues to grow, with elements and stretches of railway disappearing at lighthouse tower. of the military defences now stranded well intervals into thin air were reminders of that inland. He suggested that even the flimsy Climbing the last few steps up the final very flimsiness. sandspit might be getting wider and taller “ladder” earned the right to enjoy a superb again, although another tidal surge might yet It seemed a long two and half miles to the panorama, looking back up the Humber change all that. lighthouse and as temperatures rose into towards Immingham Docks, and the port the 20s so too did concern that we had set and city of Hull, with the towers of the After the long hike back to the car park, we off minus refreshments of any sort. What Humber Bridge just visible in the distance. To felt a reward was in order and what better relief then to find Wildlife Trust volunteers the south, huge vessels plied what seemed place to seek that reward than at the Crown on duty at the lighthouse – restored and like a surprisingly narrow channel separating and Anchor, in Easington – a pub enjoying opened to the pubic with help from Heritage Spurn Head from Grimsby. unsurpassed sunset views across the Lottery funds – and selling a range of crisps, marshes and up the Humber. In the immortal The view served only to emphasise that chocolate and pop! I needed them even words of that son of Yorkshire, Wallace, it the lighthouse remains some distance from more after climbing 130ft of steps to the had been a “a grand day out”. the point itself, which lies beyond the pilot observation room. station and the former homes of the lifeboat www.ywt.org.uk/reserves/spurn-nature- Two gallery spaces punctuated the climb, crew’s families (all now live on the mainland). reserve

I WAS EXPECTING A RELATIVELY NARROW BREACH, BUT IN REALITY A GOOD HALF MILE OF DUNELAND HAS VANISHED, LEAVING NOTHING TO BIND THE LAND-BRIDGE FIRMLY TOGETHER

Eastern Airways flies to Humberside from Aberdeen LAND FRAGMENTS

ESSENTIAL GUIDE ESSENTIAL GUIDE ©VisitBritain/Discover Northern Ireland

Carrickarede

Following on from our St Kilda and Spurn Head features, our Essential Guide this issue takes a look at some of the other barely inhabited fragments of land off our shores…

people continue to make traditional Fair FAIR ISLE Isle jumpers, and it is a mecca for birders THE HOLY ISLAND Positively metropolitan in comparison and twitchers on the trail of migrating If the island of Arran, in Firth of Clyde, with some of the fragments that this fea- species. The old Bird Observatory was is often called Scotland in Miniature, ture will visit, Fair Isle is home to about completely redeveloped back in 2010 then perhaps the Holy Isle, just off its 60 people, all of them tenants of the and serves also as hotel and bar: watch south-eastern shore, might be called National Trust for Scotland, which halted out for multi-tasking – on my last visit, Tibet in miniature. Acquired in 1992 by a long period of decline by acquiring the “airport” fireman became baggage- Lama Yeshe Rinpoche after both he the island in 1954. These days there’s a handler, then taxi-driver, barman and, and the previous owner claimed to have queue to move to Fair Isle, which is, by a finally, captain of the boat, Good dreamed a similar vision of the island’s short distance, the remotest fully inhab- Shepherd, which sails to Sumburgh, on future, it is today home to both a Bud- ited island in the UK. It lies more or less Shetland. For a more comfortable trip, fly dhist retreat and the Centre for World mid-way between the southern tip of from the little airstrip at Tingwall. Peace and Health – though all visitors are Shetland (from where it is administered) www.fairisle.org.uk welcome outside the winter months. and the northern tip of Orkney. Crofting Nearest Eastern Airways airports – Scatsta, www.holyisland.org 26 remains the main activity, though some Sumburgh and Wick Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Glasgow INNER FARNE LUNDY HILBRE ISLANDS

The Farne Islands comprise fragments of Its name is derived from the Old Norse for This archipelago at the mouth of the Dee Es- hard volcanic rock, battered by the North puffin island, and but for the extraordinary tuary can be reached by walking across the Sea, off the Northumberland coast. My work of the Landmark Trust, this lump of sands when tides permit. They have, through personal favourite is Inner Farne, where you granite in the Bristol Channel – three miles the centuries, seen Stone Age people, Ro- can visit the delightful Chapel of St Cuthbert. long, half a mile wide and 400ft high – might man occupation, a medieval chapel to St But the real draw is the nesting birds (under have been abandoned. The Trust, however, Hildeburgh, and even a pub. From Hilbre has renovated 23 properties (including a Bird Observatory, birds are continuously ©VisitBritain/Discover Northern Ireland the watchful eye of seasonal wardens), most especially the puffins and Arctic terns but lighthouse, a castle and a simple fisherman’s monitored in connection with a national net- also including shags, cormorants, shags, hut) and you can now visit this island escape work of observatories and ringing stations, razor bills, guillemots and fulmars, among (which still issues its own stamps) year-round but no permanent ranger has lived on the others. My favourite time to visit is in early – two hours by boat from Devon in summer, islands since 2011. June when the tern chicks have hatched in or seven minutes by helicopter, in winter. www.visitwirral.com/explore/coast/hilbre- ground nests, beside the board-walks, and www.landmarktrust.org.uk/lundyisland island you must run the gauntlet of the adult birds. Nearest Eastern Airways airports – Bristol and Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Hard hat essential! Cardiff www.nationaltrust.org.uk/farne-islands Flor og Fjære Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Newcastle FLAT HOLM Flattish it may be, but this island not only af- CALF OF MAN fords dramatic views across Cardiff Bay and At a full square mile, the Calf (Yn Cholloo, in the Bristol Channel, but is also steeped in Manx) looks quite substantial when viewed both ancient and recent history. The earliest from the new and attractive grass-roofed known visitor to Flat Holm was St Cadoc, café across the Sound, on the mainland. But who made frequent meditative visits in the it has only a seasonal population of a bird sixth century. More recent activities included warden and his partner, although it is pos- mining and, unsurprisingly, smuggling, while, sible to stay, by prior arrangement. in 1897, Marconi successfully tested his te- www.manxnationalheritage.im/our-sites/the- legraphy system on the island, which can be sound-and-calf-of-man visited by high-speed RIB from Cardiff Bay. Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Isle of Man www.flatholmisland.com Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Cardiff

CARRICKAREDE BARDSEY NORWAY From the Irish Carraig a’ Ráid, meaning Norway boasts rather a lot of islands – “rock of the casting”, this tiny volcanic Bardsey, or Ynys Enlli, was acquired by a more than 50,000. Many are meticulously islet was used for centuries by fishermen charitable trust in 1979 and, like the similarly- connected by a government committed casting for passing salmon, of which few sized Lundy, it offers a range of dog-free ac- to doing just that. But a few have been now remain. It is reached from the County commodation (in summer at least) to people abandoned. Sør-Gjæslingan is collection of Antrim mainland by the celebrated rope fancying a real away-from-it-all holiday off 80 small islands in Trondelag County that bridge, which features in many a tourism the very tip of the Lleyn peninsula. once played seasonal home to as many poster. The “crossing” is short, but not for www.bardsey.org as 4,000 fishermen and women. To visit the faint-hearted! Nearest Eastern Airways airport – today, by high-speed boat, is to step back www.nationaltrust.org.uk/carrick-a-rede in time, as houses and the village shop are Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Belfast City Spitbank Fort preserved as they were when the permanent population left. A very different island can be found a short boat ride from the quayside in SOLENT FORTS Stavanger. Flor og Fjære is a once unremark- able island that has been transformed into a Although there are sandbanks in the Solent lush but unlikely offshore parkland, boasting that may emerge on the occasional low tide even grape vines and olive trees, surviving and provide venues for crazy cricket or polo thanks to the Gulf Stream Drift. The boat trip matches, these three man-made “islands” from Bryggen quay, in Bergen, to the island are rather less ephemeral. All three are a of Bjorøy, takes a little longer but the reward legacy of World War II – Spitbank and No is every bit as good as this sliver of rock is Man’s have been renovated and converted the location of Restaurant Cornelius, one of into luxury hotels, accessible from Port- the finest seafood restaurants in the country. smouth and offering a combined total of 31 www.sor-gjaeslingan.no suites, plus hot tubs and a variety of other www.florogfjare.no/english activities. Nearby Horse Sand Fort has been www.corneliusrestaurant.no/english preserved as a museum. Eastern Airways partner, Widerøe, flies to Stavanger www.solentforts.com and Bergen, with onward connections throughout Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Southampton Norway. And all this without any road rage or car horn anger. The 219-square mile New Forest National Park is among the smallest of the UK’s 15 such areas and was only officially designated in 2005. People visit to go THE NEW FOREST pony-trekking; to see the wild horses, the rootling pigs and roaming donkeys; or perhaps sight the rare mole cricket or European honey buzzard. Or they might race the old mail coach routes on bespoke horse-drawn carriage tours, or visit the National Motor Museum at Beaulieu. In my case, however, it was to reclaim my fiefdom, protect my manorial interests and lay siege to the local pub. The thatched Fleur de Lys, in Pilley Street, which leads on to Pilley Hill and past Pilley Stores, is in the heart of the New Forest’s ancient heathlands and broadleaf woodlands. It’s the oldest pub in the Forest and gets its name from a local 13th century church window, depicting the coat of arms of the Dauphin of . Pilley gets three mentions in the Domesday book and the Pilley family has allegedly been associated with the area since 1316. There has been a pub on the site since the 11th century. A list of landlords goes back to 1498. “Have you booked?” current landlady Vanessa Cooper demanded, as I entered with my entourage of attendants – wife and heir. I gave my name, expecting her to go down on her knees and utter “My lord”, before swooning. But there was very little ceremony of homage and fealty from my vassal. The allegiance owed appeared lacking. Vanessa Cooper admitted that I was the first Pilley to attempt to repossess Pilley for a long time. Heads turned and you could see the locals were worried about their smallholdings. Handed a complimentary Orchard NEW FOREST FARE Reveller, I forswore my ancient rights. After a lengthy fish pie lunch (chef Steve Kevin Pilley visit’s the New Forest National Park in Hurst’s dinner menu includes rump of lamb with New Forest mushrooms, and bubble and squeak cake), I ended up at search of his ancestral rights... New Forest Cider Farm, where Barry, Sue and Marie-Louise Topp serve up straight from the whisky barrel tastings of 7.4 per He just stood there in the middle of the Only a horse could cause a ten-car cent Kington Black Apple Snake Catcher road, looking at us glazedly through tailback in the New Forest, where the Scrumpy. the windscreen. He didn’t move for five bottlenecks are the friendliest and most minutes. He looked as if he had been even-tempered in the world. History Barry, a former mackerel fisherman in on the local tanglefoot, or perhaps teaches you patience. Ponies and Cornwall, bought his ancestral lands Hampshire cider. foals as well as pigs have right of way and revived traditional cider-making in – especially here in the New Forest, Or maybe the Ringwood Old Thumper where commoners’ rights have been bitter; or Dorset Conker gin, distilled in Above: Ponies grazing in the New Forest. 28 respectfully observed for centuries. an old laundry. VisitEngland/New Forest District Council Fleur de Lys

the New Forest. He stages an annual steam- Barry also slips in a story about some of BURLEY MANOR pressing weekend. The family also has a stall his pigs enjoying the privilege of “pannage” Chewton Glen, in New Milton, used to in London’s Borough Market. In the stable (feeding in woodland) too much, and be the best place to stay in the New gallery, while introducing you to sparkling Cidre gatecrashing a wedding. Forest. Now it’s the newly-refurbished Bouché, made by the five-acre listed Burley Manor, 20 miles Commoners still have the champagne method, he from . A former right to collect wood for tells you his family history royal lodge, you pull the curtains in the burning (“estovers”) and and talks about 19th morning to see a herd of deer. turbary, or peat digging, century adder-catcher, as well as to dig clay, Matthew, the GM, looks after you royally Harry “Brusher” Mills, who graze their livestock and – as do all his staff, including executive supplied London Zoo and turn out their pigs to chef James Forman, whose menu is believed boiled adder was vacuum up acorns and Mediterranean-British (wild boar cutlet, good for rheumatism. beechnuts (pannage or Provençal beef daube, Cypriot-style The Topps top you up with “mast”). split chicken and a Marseille-style fish scrumpy (named after stew). The signature is a tapas Acorns aren’t poisonous “scrumping” or stealing board of fig and almond tart, with spiced to pigs, so the animals from orchards) and fill you cardamom, chocolate and rum fondue are doing the New Forest in on the history of the and roasted plums in orange yoghurt with a great ecological service Forest. amaretto zabaglione and hazelnut praline. – and taste all the better The New Forest was for it. There’s an outside pool and a spa is created by William I planned. The manor goes back to1212. A Pilley or a non-Pilley, in 1079. Many were In 1388, Sir Simon de Burley, a Knight of your manorial rights controversially evicted so the Garter and friend of Edward III’s son retained or not, it’s a the king could “pursue Edward (the Black Prince), was executed privilege to visit the New hart”. Once known as for treason and his lands confiscated Forest. You end the day Ytene (meaning of the by the Crown. Hampshire cricketer, standing by the roadside Jutes, the early Anglo- archetypally florid-faced country squire doing a very good impersonation of a slightly Saxon tribe) it became “a harbour for wild and mutton-chopped huntsman, Sir stoned animal. beasts… and affordeth great variety of Game Thomas Ridge, lived here in the 18th where his Majesty oft-times withdraws himself And wearing that rather mottled complexion… century before Brigadier-General John for his divertisement”. of a Gloucester Old Spot, perhaps. Carnac, MP and former Commander-in- Chief of India, moved in.

Food and drink at the Fleur de Lys The house was then demolished and the current one (with the inscription above the entrance “Speed the parting guest, welcome the coming friend”) was built in 1852 by Colonel William Clement Drake Esdaile, a magistrate and “Verderer” – custodian – of the unenclosed pasturelands of the New Forest. Now it’s all cosy fabrics, complementary Temple Spa toiletries, “heritage” prints, heritage ornaments, “heritage” fittings, wood-roasted “heritage” vegetables, Newby teas and tisanes and local “neo- heritage” products like Conker gin. www.burleymanor.com

Eastern Airways flies to Southampton from Aberdeen and Leeds Bradford LITTLE LOCH WITH BIG APPEAL

Visiting the less visited side of Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park…

It’s tempting to think you’ve visited the no fewer than three visitor information its surroundings that – but for the flocks national park if you’ve walked on the centres (VisitScotland, the local tourist of Canada geese and a little , or shores of Loch Lomond, the largest loch, information centre, and the nearby fortified man-made islet – it could almost by area, in Scotland. But its full name Lodge Forest Visitor Centre). be the English Lakes, rather than the is Loch Lomond and the Trossachs Highlands of Scotland. LOCH LOMOND AND THE TROSSACHS National Park and the latter part of the is cupped in a valley beyond title is best reached by heading north, the gentle Pass of Aberfoyle and The narrow road winding along its shore rather than north-west from Glasgow. bounded to the north by the ridge of leads me to Forest Hills Hotel and Spa, Beinn an Fhogharaidh, with Ben Lomond whose north shore vantage affords As guilty as anyone of being too easily prominent further to the west. wonderful views across its attractively seduced by Loch Lomond’s bonny managed gardens – especially from the This loch is just about as little as Loch charms, I welcomed an invitation to terrace outside the piano room. see more of the eastern fringes of Lomond is large, but still finds space national park, whose gateway is the for an attractive islet, Eilean Gorm. So The light and airy Garden restaurant wee town of Aberfoyle, which boasts serene and comfortable does it look in shares this fine vista and is the preserve

View from Forest Hills Garden Restaurant

30 Loch Ard

Ben A’an of Scots returnee, Chef James McCulloch, down the road from Forest Hills – is a bit WEE HILLS WITH back close to his Glasgow home after a 30- special: this is the distillery that was used year career that has taken in Australia and, in the setting of Ken Loach’s wonderful BIG VIEWS closer to home, Aberdeenshire. I especially film, The Angels’ Share, in which a group The Trossachs side of the national park commend his tasting plate of smoked of young jobless Glaswegians hatch a plot boasts some small hills that nonetheless salmon. to relieve a distillery of just some of the offer great views: so-called angels’ share of its whisky. The As evening strides on, the Scottish The 4km walk offers a angels’ share, of course, is the proportion BEN A’AN: midsummer sun refuses stubbornly to set surprisingly big experience, with many of of distilled spirit that evaporates over time. behind the peaks beyond the head of the the ingredients of a mountain hike loch and a pair of itinerant Canadian pianists Glengoyle is a small distillery but its tour is deliver an impromptu virtuoso performance imaginative and guide Deirdre gave us a BEN GULLIPEN: Starting from in the Piano Room. graphic illustration of this evaporation in a Callander, this is a 414-metre climb up display of bottles of different ages of whisky, a well-established path. The reward There are 65 self-catering lodges for showing clearly the proportion of spirit lost is breath-taking views of the Wallace members of the Macdonald Resorts over decades. Monument near , Loch Venachar, Points Club and other self-catering guests and Ben Ledi. on the extensive site, and some of their Curiously, while Glengoyle is a Highland occupants sharing the hotel facilities help distillery, its cask warehousing is across the CALLANDER CRAGS: These offer to create a lively buzz and ensure brisk road – in the Lowland whisky region! a very pleasant walk through beautiful business for the spa, which also houses woodlands, over the crag tops and to a This visit, and a lazy evening canoe ride to the Rafters bistro. cairn at 343 metres. Many people also enjoy champagne by the bothy on Eilean take in a visit to the attractive Bracklinn Now, I’ve done a few whisky distillery tours Gorm, make this a memorable, if all too Falls. in my time, but Glengoyle – a few miles brief, visit.

Question: WHICH IS THE UK’S LARGEST PRIVATELY- OWNED HOTEL GROUP? Answer: MACDONALD – Founded by Harris-born Donald Macdonald in 1990. The UK’s “Big Mac” now boasts more than 45 hotels in the UK, plus ten resorts in the UK, Ireland and Portugal. It operates more than 4,500 hotel rooms and employs more than 4,000 staff. Macdonald founded the group with colleagues and investors after leaving his role as MD of the Stakis Group, aged 42. It went public with its flotation in 1996 but Macdonald then led a £590 million management team buyout in 2003, backed by Bank of Scotland. Other facts you may not have known about the group include its dedication to reducing fossil fuel usage, driven by internal Green Teams, which earned it the Carbon Trust Standard and the title of Eco-Hotel Group of the Year in 2013. The recently completed £3.5 million refurbishment of the four-star Forest Hills Hotel and Resort was financed from the Group’s own capital and has seen all 53 bedrooms, two suites and public areas transformed.

Forest Hills Hotel and Spa is less than an hour’s drive from , served by Eastern Airways flights from the Isle of Man and, from September 1, Stornoway, Sumburgh and Manchester (operated by Eastern Airways on behalf of Flybe) 32

SPECIAL FEATURE the offering oflastyear, making itbigger, 2012 andRio2016 –waskeentoevolve opening ceremonies –includingLondon 13 consecutiveOlympicandParalympic Steve, whohashelpedtochoreograph the SecondWorld War. events from theRomanoccupationto director SteveBoyd,bringingtolife creative the watchfuleyeofUS-born professionally trainedvolunteers, under more spectacular, withmore than1,500 And thisyearpromises to be even amazing 90-minuteshow. than 2,000yearsofBritishhistoryintoan County Durham,Kynren packs more of AucklandCastle,inBishopAuckland, Set againstthemagnificentbackdrop KYNREN AMAZES ONCE AGAIN AMAZES KYNREN returned to North East England to wow preview… at Jonathan crowds. the the was Jones England East to North returned Epic Tale has –An Kynren season, of England, inaugural asuccessful Following This year audiences also meet the This yearaudiences alsomeetthe which scenesrise andfall. oppressors onthebanksofalake,from horses, battlingwiththeirRoman accompanied byherdaughtersastride Queen Boudicca,stormingthestage thrilling scenesfeaturingwarrior New additionsforthisyearinclude with thestunningmusic.” casting, costume,lightingandtyingitin on makingthemostofstaging, the premise isthere, wehavefocused even betterandmore captivating.Now back forasecondyear, Kynren willbe He said:“To aviewerwhohascome better andevenmore spectacular. Stephenson’s Rockettrundlingacross rising from thelake,andareplica of effects, such astheVikinglongboat Kynren features flamboyant special and theMiddleEast. including theUSA,China,South Africa East, from allovertheUKandworld, those camefrom outsidetheNorth 100,000 visitors.Almostaquarter of show, whichattractedmore than extra depthanddetailtolastyear’s All thisispartofSteve’s plantoadd oxen. of Durhamshorthorn gaggle ofgeese,twodonkeysandapair a performance horses,flocksofsheep, and Cardinal Wolsey, alongside34 Venerable Bede,PrinceBishopBek the massive stage, accompanied by best known for his roles in Auf Wiedersehen Friday and Saturday evenings throughout cheering crowds, plus dazzling pyrotechnics, Pet, Inspector Morse and Lewis. July, August and September. It is just the including a fabulous fireworks finale to the latest manifestation of the reinvigoration Kevin plays the part of Old Arthur, the strains of Land of Hope and Glory. of Bishop Auckland, since philanthropist character who reveals the secret of time Jonathan Ruffer donated £15 million to the The award-winning composer of Kynren’s travel to Young Arthur, and sets him off Auckland Castle Trust to prevent the loss original score, Nathan Stornetta, has evolved across the ages on a quest to learn the of 12 paintings by Francisco de Zurbarán, his powerful original composition, which has meaning of the word Kynren. been extended by the touching addition of present in the palace since 1756, but which the miners’ hymn, Gresford, performed by The show offers compelling family the Church Commissionerds wanted to sell. entertainment for all generations and ages, the Spennymoor and Ferryhill colliery bands, He has invested a further £18 million to and judging by the reaction of both young and recorded specially for the show in restore the palace itself, set up Kynren, and old spectators to the preview, it’s a show Durham Cathedral. and to create world-class museums and not to be missed. The dialogue for this year’s show has also galleries, due to open this year and next. been entirely reworked, and now features the Produced by Eleven Arches, the 2017 distinctive regional tones of Kevin Whately, season features 17 performances across www.kynren.co.uk

Eastern Airways flies to Durham Tees Valley from Aberdeen and to Newcastle from Aberdeen, Belfast City, Cardiff and Isle of Man RED SQUIRRELS: A GREY AREA WILDLIFE Stan Abbott looks at the issues surrounding conservation of the red squirrel in the UK

It’s a hugely divisive issue in animal- an estimate of just 40 surviving reds on loving circles: is it right to set out to the island, that number is now up to exterminate an animal simply because, around 700. through human intervention, it happens The success of the Anglesey project is to have turned up on the wrong encouraging similar culls in other areas, continent? including a Heritage Lottery-funded one The European red squirrel is by no in neighbouring . At the same means an endangered species. But time, research into the idea of greys- in the UK, its population has been only contraceptive continues. However, in steady decline in the face of the there remains some way to go, with relentless march of the North American the destructive grey outnumbering the grey. red by perhaps as many as 30 to one across the country as a whole. The grey carries the squirrel pox virus, to which it is resistant, while the poor The greys have even been fighting old native red tends to die a rather back, in the form of the Professor Acorn unpleasant death from the disease. pressure group, which argues that it is wrong to kill one sentient species to The consensus is that, if you want preserve another. Some more extreme Squirrel Nutkin – so emblematic of the commentators even liken “anti-grey British countryside – to survive, the only prejudice” to anti-immigrant human option is to get rid of the non-native sentiments. reds. But perhaps it’s time to take a leaf out And on Anglesey, that’s just what of Ireland’s book. There, the grey is in they’ve done: after an 18-year cull, retreat thanks to the native pine marten, the island was declared free of grey whose own population is in recovery squirrels a little under two years ago, since game-keepers stopped habitually after no greys had been spotted for two killing them. Pine martens struggle to years prior to that. In recent years, the catch the nimble reds, but the greys, it red squirrel has responded well – from seems, are easy meat!

From top: pine marten, grey squirrel, European red squirrel

34 Hughes Patrick Kuyper / Terry 34 SPE5-8 Offshore Europe SEPT 2017 September 5-8, 2017

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Catherine MacGregor, who is also President of Drilling Group, Schlumberger, said: “The industry’s technical and financial performance has been challenged for some time now. Learning the lessons from the most severe downturn for the past 30 years, there is no doubt that the industry must reinvent itself.

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Visit our new website: faradaycentre.co.uk SPE OFFSHORE EUROPE 2017 industry chiefs…Elevenindustry panel cover sessions will the gamut oftopical issues that figure SirIan Wood, whokickedoff strong supportofleadingindustry SPE Offshore Europe 2017hasthe industries. effectiveness from andlearning other pool, breakthroughs insupplychain as makingcapitalwork,thetalent models formature basins,aswell decommissioning, tonewbusiness technologies, sustainabilityand and physicalsecurity, transformative from peoplesafety, bigdata,cyber relevant inthecurrent climate,ranging the gamutoftopicalissuesthatare Eleven panelsessionswillcover plenary. audience ofhundreds attheopening CEO ofWood Group, willaddress an CEO ofPetrobras, andRobinWatson, Chief ExecutiveofBP;Pedro Parente, of RoyalDutchShell;BobDudley, Group industry chiefs–BenvanBeurden, CEO a packedhallwithtop-levelline-upof The openingplenarysessionpromises OE & ME & OE PROGRAMME CONFERENCE The openingsession plenary promises a packedwith a hall top-level line-up of exhibitor. speaking about,orshowcasingasan forward toattheevent,whattheywillbe Offshore Europe –whattheyare looking invites peopletoshare theirstoriesof first contributortotheonlinehub,which OE pastandpresent. SirIanwasthe speakers toshare theirexperiencesof to encouragevisitors,exhibitorsand a newcampaignaheadoftheevent for the first time, as well as the return of for thefirsttime,aswell of return range ofnewcompaniesbookingspace The exhibitionfloorisseeingadiverse assets, willshare detailsofprogress. of decommissioningtheGreater Dunlin Fairfield Energy, whichisintheprocess SUT. IndependentNorthSeaoperator Decom NorthSea,IMechE,ITFand being organised inassociationwith and aconference programme thatis technology andserviceproviders hall for20-plusdecommissioning will includeathemedexhibition the DecommissioningZone,which A neweventfeature for2017is EXHIBITION DECOMMISSIONING are relevant in the current climate the USA. the USA. Canada, , Netherlands,Nigeriaand pavilions bookedbymid-June,including will include20nationalandinternational A large exhibitorpresence international several oftheindustry’s majorplayers. offshore oilandgas,despitebeingpart – are allcurrently underutilisedin manufacturing andaugmentedreality robots, compositematerials,additive Centre believestechnologies–suchas the adoptionofnewproducts. The industry tothinkdifferently about sectors toencouragetheoilandgas of technologiesusedinalternative Technology Zonewillpresent aseries The Oil&GasTechnology Centre’s look outforitonthestands. exhibitor list,appandcatalogue,can the Tech Trek logo,visibleonthewebsite months are eligible.Visitorswillfollow solutions launchedwithinthelast12 more easily. Technologies, products and it easierforvisitorstofindwhat’s new Also newisTech Trek, designedtomake TECHNOLOGY ZONE TECH TREK 39 A world class offshore sector supported by engineering expertise.

Tees Valley has one of the greatest concentrations of companies operating in the offshore industry, with over 3,500 companies involved directly or indirectly in the supply chain, including industry leading businesses, such as Deep Ocean, JDR Cables, Heerema and ConocoPhillips.

With one of the most complete integrated supply chains in the UK the support for business is there for companies looking to invest in Tees Valley.

WE SPECIALISE IN: OIL & GAS FABRICATION SUBSEA DECOMMISSIONING OFFSHORE WIND

Come and see us at Offshore Europe 5th – 8th September 2017 on stand 1G122 to find out how investing in Tees Valley could help your business grow.

TeesValleyCA

Tel: 01642 524400 www.teesinvest.co.uk of a general industrial transformation For those already starting their career in other industries. The Zone will bring in engineering, there will be a series of SPE Offshore Europe together start-up companies and SMEs, lectures, workshops and networking 2017 promises to be A world class offshore sector showcasing their ideas and solutions. opportunities for university students Also, there will be a series of short and young professionals. They will have presentations followed by a Q & A a chance to learn some key skills and an agenda-setting supported by engineering session with the Technology Centre’s discuss job options with experienced board and leadership team, focussing professionals one-to-one. This year, SPE conference and on its priorities and how to get involved. also hopes to inspire a wider number of people through the SPE Cares exhibition, embracing expertise. Programme, by working with the Marine SPE OFFSHORE EUROPE 2017 INSPIRE Conservation Society, inviting attendees the topics that will shape to help us clean the local beaches PROGRAMME during the conference. Continuing from the success of SPE’s the industry for the next Tees Valley has one of the greatest concentrations of Inspire Programme in 2015, a series companies operating in the offshore industry, with over of activities, workshops and lectures INVESTMENT ten years and beyond. will be held from Monday September 4 WORKSHOP 3,500 companies involved directly or indirectly in the (the afternoon before the show starts) This one day programme connects As Sir Ian Wood says: supply chain, including industry leading businesses, to Friday September 8. All of these will Oiltech’s investor members with such as Deep Ocean, JDR Cables, Heerema and be specifically focused on supporting innovative technology providers, giving “If you decide not to go and informing young people interested entrepreneurs industry-specific advice ConocoPhillips. in joining the oil and gas industry or just on partner funding and providing access there, you are actually beginning their careers. For younger to funding opportunities. On the morning With one of the most complete integrated supply generations there will be introductions of September 6, a series of drop-in missing out on probably to the industry and the importance of sessions will be held, at which industry chains in the UK the support for business is there STEM topics, through SPE’s schools experts will give guidance on getting the biggest learning for companies looking to invest in Tees Valley. engagement programme. SPE is also technology to market in the fastest and working with local schools to explain most effective way, and offer advice and opportunity in terms of the opportunities within the industry and expertise around partner funding. On WE SPECIALISE IN: enable pupils to meet professionals to the afternoon of Wednesday September changing your business.” talk about what they do. OPITO will also 6, a limited number of companies will

OIL & GAS FABRICATION SUBSEA be working with connecting industry to be invited to one-to-one meetings to discuss investment projects with various DECOMMISSIONING OFFSHORE WIND students, with a tour of the exhibitions and discovering what projects the grant, early seed and direct industry www.offshore-europe.co.uk industry is working on. funding providers.

Come and see us at Offshore Europe 5th – 8th September 2017 on stand 1G122 to find out how investing in Tees Valley could help your business grow.

TeesValleyCA

Tel: 01642 524400 www.teesinvest.co.uk 41 DISCOVER THE BENEFITS BEAC N PARK AT GREAT YARMOUTH’S G R E A T Y A R M O U T H BEACON PARK ADVERTISING FEATURE ADVERTISING Beacon Park in Great Yarmouth is a hub for expanding energy businesses, offering a range of brand new office and industrial units, plus business rate discounts and capital grants for eligible businesses. KEY ADVANTAGES

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Owned and developed by Great of energy investment over the next of high-quality, ready-built offices Yarmouth Borough Council, the park 20 years, including offshore wind and and workshops of various sizes gives occupiers the benefits of being decommissioning. Peel Ports has for businesses seeking immediate on the Great Yarmouth and Lowestoft already transformed the deep water occupation. (New Anglia) Enterprise Zone, which Outer Harbour to support wind farm focuses on growing energy sector- construction. related businesses within the East of Businesses interested in moving England Energy Zone. Beacon Park is the ideal location to Beacon Park should contact for businesses looking to exploit the appointed agents, Bycroft Already England’s offshore energy opportunities across the sector, and Commercial (01493 844489) or capital, with a skilled and sizeable has welcomed a string of energy Arnolds Keys (01603 620551). supply chain, the Great Yarmouth occupiers in recent years. The fully- area is anticipating more than £39bn landscaped 19.5ha site has a range www.beaconpark.co.uk OFFSHORE FEATURE

Hurricane Energy THE NORTH SEA IS DEAD: LONG LIVE THE NORTH SEA! Yes, the whispers of a return to better Dr Robert Trice, Hurricane's CEO, said: Hurricane’s discoveries have delivered times on the UK continental shelf are "This is a highly significant moment an optimistic moment for the UK industry getting louder and, notwithstanding for Hurricane and I am delighted that and the recent award of 25 exploration continuing low crude prices, activity the Halifax well results support the and production licences for 111 offshore continues to increase in the deeper UK company's view that its substantial blocks by the UK Oil and Gas Authority waters, off Shetland. Lancaster discovery has been extended has raised hopes of a more general to include the Halifax licence. revival. Indeed, these northern waters are showing every sign of carrying “We believe that [this represents] a single NO GIVING UP exploitation of reserves forward as those hydrocarbon accumulation, making it the in the “traditional” North Sea areas move largest undeveloped discovery on the Shell sold more than half its UK towards the end of their life. UK Continental Shelf. production base earlier this year to Chrysaor, in a deal worth up to nearly “The discovery of a 1km hydrocarbon Take UK-based Hurricane Energy, £3bn. But it says its new licences column at Halifax validates the efforts which specialises in exploiting reserves demonstrate it has not given up activities the company undertook to acquire the from fractured basins. It made a further on the UK continental shelf. oil discovery about 100 miles west of licence and drill, test and log the Halifax Shetland earlier this year – around the well through the winter months. Given Other winners in the licence awards in same as Royal Dutch Shell and BP won the positive well results, the Halifax hitherto unexplored waters include BP, exploration licences in the same area. well has been suspended to provide ExxonMobil and Norway’s Statoil. the company the option to return to The low crude price has also led to a SIGNIFICANT MOMENT undertake further testing, as well as to provide the option to deepen the well lengthy pause in activity further west, in Hurricane spudded its Halifax well and thereby establish a definitive oil- Faroese waters, where – since April 2016 using the Transocean Spitsbergen rig water contact.” – only two licences remain current. Both on a 265-day operation in the recently are held by DONG Energy. awarded P2308 licence. Hurricane Hurricane says that the exploration wells However, commentators believe that believes the find is contiguous with and on Halifax and nearby Lincoln have the sheer extent of unexplored waters extends northeast from its adjacent resulted in the discovery of extensive oil columns and it expects this to lead here may yet yield new finds. Relatively Lancaster licence. to an upgrading of its resource base on few exploration wells have been drilled: The company suggests the Lancaster both the Greater Lancaster and Greater these are not widely distributed and field could extend further northeast along Warwick Areas. “These are exciting have only penetrated a limited part of the the Rona Ridge. times for Hurricane,” concluded Dr Trice. stratigraphy. 43 44

SNOWDONIA has reinvented itselfasanoutdoorcentre cally insunshine.Thesedaysthe town in wetweather, but whichshinedramati- ries, whichmayappeargrey andgloomy by thesheerscaleofitsvastslate quar roofed theworld”–cannotfailtoimpress Blaenau Ffestiniog–“thetownthat the Conwy, ittakesa tad overanhour. it wendsitswayupthedramaticvalleyof with steepgradientsandlotsofbendsas Blaenau Ffestiniog.It’s only27miles,but where youtaketheConwy Valley lineto about 45minutes,atLlandudnoJunction, The firstchangeoftraincomesafter 1970. and railcrossing afteradisastrous fire in substantially rebuilt asacombined road ing tubularstructure opened in1850but Stephenson’s BritanniaBridge,apioneer Straits tomainlandWales onRobert of hours.Thetraincrosses theMenai from where trainsdeparteverycouple Valley Station,closetotheairport, The adventure beginsat the unstaffed railways. of thelongestthesepreserved steam rather specialcircular trip,takingintwo From AngleseyAirportyoucanmakea a littlesentimentalaboutthesethings! tick alltheboxesforthoseofuswhoget steam-hauled narrow gaugelinesthat the bonusisthatmanyoftheseare also endowed withpreserved railways–and Wales isacountryextraordinarily well Eastern Airways flies twice dailyfromtwice Eastern flies Cardiff Airways to Angleseyoperates and corporate charters to Chester FULL STEAM AHEAD IN WALES IN AHEAD STEAM FULL - - reinstatement by the Ffestiniog Railway reinstatement bytheFfestiniogRailway Highland Railway, whichisacomplete to beconfusedwithitsrival,theWelsh to explore itstrackandlocos.Itisnot inch gaugeline,whichoffers adayticket Highland HeritageRailway, ashort12- ment stopandisalsohometothe Welsh Porthmadog isanothergoodrefresh- the Prisoner. famously thesettingofcultTVseries, based onPortofino,theRiviera.Itwas tury from 1925asamock Italianvillage, Sir CloughWilliams-Ellisoverhalfacen- one-mile walktovisitPortmeirion,builtby At Minnfordd, it’s possibletomakethe enjoy afullbuffet serviceat theirseats! route onthevalleyside,and passengers views allthewayfrom the line’s elevated Tanygrisiau reservoir. There are great original tunnelandtrackatthenew the linetoclimbabovenowflooded at Dduallt,builtinthe1970stoenable Somewhat neweristheingeniousspiral to betheoldestsuchlineinworld. Wales anditclaims,atnearly200years, finest ofthemanynarrow gaugelinesin an hourandaquarter. Thisisoneofthe taking miles toPorthmadog,ajourney the Ffestiniograilwaytotravel13.5 From BlaenauFfestiniog,youboard good placetopauseforrefreshment! spaces feelfresh andbright,makingita boasts nicelittlecafésandthepublic not within)SnowdoniaNationalPark.It sitting attheheartof(thoughtechnically On the track of Snowdonia’s track the On railways preserved Ffestiniog andWelsh Highlandlines . services andoffering discountsonthe Rover, covering busesandnationalrail this round trip,includingtheNorthWales Various railpassescanhelpyoumake www.festrail.co.uk Ffestiniog andWelsh Highlandrailways ferent experience,Portmeirion. Conwy Valley, Porthmadogand,foradif- options includeBetws-y-Coed,inthe Besides stayingonAngelsey, othergreat to break thejourney, why wouldyoutry? but there are justsomanygreat places time forthereturn flightintheevening, from Cardiff in andcompletethisjourney It isalmost,butnotquite,possibletofly back toValley. Bangor, from where youcatchthetrain rently a30-minutebusridefrom here to ambitions toreopen therailway, it’s cur from the13thcentury. Althoughthere are Town Walls World HeritageSite,dating of course,iscelebratedforitsCastleand front redevelopment scheme.Thetown, aspartofawater struction atCaernafon A new£2.2millionstationisundercon- luxury andat-seatdining. are spectacularandthere’s fullPullman slopes andtightbends.Viewsenroute hours asthelittletrainnegotiatessteep in 2011.It’s ofmore ajourney thantwo completed only mountains toCaernarfon, Company ofthe25-milelinethrough the Welsh HighlandRailwayatBeddgelert - - WELCOME TO OUR BARE ESSENTIALS Information on our routes, fleet, passenger experience and suggestions for what to do when you arrive at your destination. BARE ESSENTIALS

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ESSENTIAL GOINGS ON…

n As part of its range of masterclasses and studio tours, South-West based www.portfolioarttours.com is offering tailor-made painting sessions with outstanding portrait artist Richard Twose, whose work has won critical acclaim and international awards. © Norfolk Museums Service Museums Norfolk ©

BARE ESSENTIALS: WHAT’S GOING ON BARE ESSENTIALS: WHAT’S This year, Richard¹s portrait of the internationally-renowned filmmaker, Ken Loach, pictured below, has been selected from 2,500 entries to be shortlisted for the prestigious 2017 BP Portrait Awards. His captivating portrait of the ground-breaking film director will be exhibited at the National Portrait Gallery before a UK-wide tour.

The Ensign of Le Généreux, St Andrews Hall, Norwich, October 2016 NORWICH FLIES THE FLAG FOR NELSON WITH MAJOR EXHIBITION Admiral Lord Nelson (1758 –1805) and Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. his affection for his native county of The undisputed centerpiece is the Norfolk is the subject of a major highly important, early French Tricolour exhibition Nelson & Norfolk, which runs – the monumental Ensign (or flag) of the at Norwich Castle Museum & Art French warship Le Généreux, which Gallery until October 1. took part in the Battle of the Nile in The exhibition presents some of the 1798. A British victory, the battle sealed most extraordinary and potent objects Nelson’s reputation as England’s n The increasingly popular Canadian connected to Nelson’s life – from his greatest hero. comedienne, Katherine Ryan, is boyhood in Norfolk to his death at the bringing her razor-sharp wit to the UK’s Although Le Généreux was one of only Capital of Culture. two ships of the line from the French fleet to escape this historic battle, it was The November 3 appearance at Hull subsequently captured, on February 18, City Hall is one of a number of new 1800, by Nelson’s flag captain Sir tour dates recently announced, with Edward Berry, on board the HMS others including Bath Comedia, Foudroyant. After the huge ensign was September 21; York , removed and surrendered to Berry, it September 29; Tyne Theatre, © Norfolk Museums Service Museums Norfolk © was immediately despatched as a gift to Newcastle, October 7; Basingstoke the City of Norwich. Anvil, October 19; the Engine Shed, Lincoln, November 9; Portsmouth Other highlights of the exhibition include Guildhall, November 17; and Leeds a locket containing two different locks Town Hall, November 23. of hair – possibly that of Nelson and Emma Hamilton, and Nelson¹s undress n The Braemar Gathering takes place coat and hat which he wore at the as usual on the first Saturday in Battle of the Nile and which are reunited September in The Princess Royal and for the first time for more than 100 Duke of Fife Memorial Park in Braemar, years. The hat features in the iconic Aberdeenshire. portrait of Nelson by William Beechey, also on exhibition. The Gathering has been attended Admiral Lord Nelson, 1801 by William regularly by the Queen and members of www.museums.norfolk.gov.uk the Royal Family. 46 Beechey (1753-1839) DURHAM CATHEDRAL REVEALS ITS TREASURES Durham Cathedral is marking the 800th to our contemporary legal system. It runs anniversary of the Charter of the Forest until September 9. – guaranteeing access to royal forests for The Collections Gallery is just part of Open commoners – by putting on public display Treasure, whose £10 million revamp has its three copies of the precious original opened up vast parts of the historic documents. Cathedral Claustral buildings to the public. Also on display in the Cathedral’s new The Great Kitchen is one of only two climate-controlled Collections Gallery are surviving medieval monastic in the its three original copies of the Magna UK and is the setting for a new exhibition of Carta, including the very first one, sealed the Treasures of St Cuthbert, some of the by King John at Runnymede against his most remarkable surviving Anglo-Saxon will and annulled on appeal to Pope artefacts in the UK. Riveting Titanic exhibits Innocent III. The exhibition opens on July 29 and Extremely rare artefacts connected to RMS includes St Cuthbert's preserved wooden The exhibition is fascinating, not least Titanic’s launch have been unveiled at coffin, pectoral cross, ivory comb and because of the sheer age of these originals, Titanic Belfast to mark the milestone portable altar. but for the interpretation, which seeks to anniversary (May 31, 1911) when the ship was launched in less than 62 seconds from explain the importance of these documents www.durhamcathedral.co.uk the slipways. Artefacts including Lord Pirrie’s 18 ct gold pocket watch, pictured above, two original launch day tickets and a broken rivet from RMS Olympic have been added to Titanic Belfast’s galleries to mark the occasion. According to the auctioneers, Henry Aldridge & Sons, the watch was probably worn by Lord Pirrie – Chairman of Harland and Wolff, and one of the masterminds behind the Olympic Class vessels – at the launch of the ship. One of the launch tickets, still with its perforated stub (as Captain Alexander Matier could not attend the event), is said to be one of the most desirable launch tickets in existence and is believed to be the only Forest Charter and, one of its calibre. right, Magna Carta www.titanicbelfast.com

Austen remembered Winchester Cathedral is the focal point for events and activities celebrating the 200th Anniversary of the death of Jane Austen, who was buried in the north aisle of the Cathedral on July 24, 1817. The Jane Austen Story is a permanent exhibition, which was installed in 2010, telling the story of Jane’s life in Hampshire, her time in Steventon and Chawton and, ultimately, the final few weeks in Winchester before her death. This summer only (until to the end of September), an additional exhibition will be added, displaying beautiful artefacts from Jane’s life including poems and first editions. Throughout the period there will be a Book of Memories, in which visitors will be able to contribute to a lasting legacy to the anniver- sary with personal thoughts of what Jane’s life and work has meant to them. www.winchester-cathedral.org.uk

- STORNOWAY WICK JOHN O’GROATS ABERDEEN GLASGOW

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Isle of Harris Car Hire

isleofharris-carhire.com Wick Heritage Museum Brewdog The Mackintosh House

WHERE WHERE WHERE WHERE To the east of the town. Taxis One mile from the centre of Seven miles north-west of the About eight miles from the and car hire are available at the Wick, half an hour’s drive from city centre, off the A96. Regular centre of Glasgow. Regular airport. Car hire: Isle of Harris Thurso. Main bus and rail buses into the city centre. For shuttle service to centre Car Hire – see above. stations are near to Wick centre car hire see Europcar.co.uk Nearest rail station Paisley serving most places in Gilmour St, one mile. For car VISIT Caithness. Trains to Thurso and VISIT Lews Castle and grounds; The Winter Gardens, Duthie Park, hire see Europcar.co.uk Inverness. Post bus operates Stornoway Fish Smokers, Shell Polmuir Rd; Gordon Highlanders Thurso-Wick-Airport. Car hire: VISIT St; An Lanntair Arts Centre, Museum, Viewfield Rd. BARE ESSENTIALS: DESTINATIONS Dunnets offers airport pick-up The Burrell Collection, Pollock Kenneth Street, Stornoway. and drop-off, 01955 602103. STAY AT Country Park; Kelvingrove Art STAY AT The Chester Hotel, Queen’s Gallery and Museum, Argyle Hotel Hebrides, Tarbert; Royal VISIT Rd; Atholl Hotel, King’s Gate; St; the Mackintosh House at Wick Heritage Museum; St Hotel, Cromwell St, Stornoway; The Village Hotel, Kingswells; the Hunterian Museum and Art Fergus Gallery, Sinclair Terr; Scarista House, West Harris. Banchory Lodge Hotel; Skene Gallery, University Avenue. Pulteney Distillery, Huddart St. House Apartments, various STAY AT SHOP AT city locations; Bauhaus Hotel, Callanish Jewellery, Point St; STAY AT Radisson Blu, Argyle St; Ackergill Tower, Wick; Mackays Langstane Place. Borgh Pottery, Borgh (20 miles); Grasshoppers Penthouse Hotel, Hotel, Wick; The Brown Trout Buth Bheag, Tarbert (36 miles). Union St; Saint Judes, Bath St. Hotel, Station Rd, Watten, near SHOP AT Aberdeen Whisky Shop, Wick. DRINK AT Union St; Annie Mo’s, Union SHOP AT Chili Chili cocktail and vodka Starry Starry Night (retro), St (interiors); Granite Reef, the bar, Era, South Beach; The SHOP AT Downside Lane; Relics antiques, John O’Groats (pottery, Green (skate, surf, snow). Carlton Lounge, Francis St. Dowanside Lane; I J Mellis knitwear); Rotterdam St, Thurso (Both in Stornoway) (cheeses), Great Western Rd. (20 miles). DRINK AT Brewdog, Gallowgate; Eclectic

EAT AT Fizz, Union St; CASC, Stirling DRINK AT Digby Chick, Bank St; Thai, DRINK AT The Bier Halle, Gordon St; Òran Cocktail Bar, Mackay’s Hotel, St; Under the Hammer, North Church St; (both in Stornoway). Mór, Byres Road; Rio Café, Wick; the Alexander Bain Silver St. Machair Kitchen, West Harris; Hyndland St. Wetherspoons, Wick. Stornoway Balti House, South EAT AT Beach. North Harbour Bistro, Granite Park, Golden Sq; EAT AT EAT AT Balbir’s (Indian), Church St; Scalpay. Bord de l’Eau, Market St, Wick; Foodstory Cafe, Thistle St; Ubiquitous Chip, Brel (Belgian), Le Bistro, Thurso; Captain’s Yorokobi by CJ, Huntly St; Tchai-Ovna ( house), all WHAT’S ON Galley, Scrabster (22 miles). Rishi’s, George St; Aperitivo, Hebridean Celtic Festival, Isle Ashton Lane. Bon Accord St; Sand Dollar of Harris, Jul 19-22; Grinneas WHAT’S ON Cafe & Bistro, Beach Esplanade. nan Eilean: The Islands Open Halkirk Highland Games, Jul 29; WHAT’S ON The Art of Comics – Kelvingrove Exhibition, An Lanntair, until Jul 82nd Art Exhibition - Society of WHAT’S ON Art Gallery, until Sep; Clyde 29; Purvai Festival of Gaelic and Caithness Artists, Thurso High TechFest, Aug 26-Sep 25; The Life – exhibition of historic Asian culture, Stornoway, Aug School, Aug 1-12; Dunbeath Braemar Gathering, Sep 2; photographs, Riverside 14-19; Isle of Harris Mountain Castle Garden Open Day, DanceLive, Oct 12-28; Sound Museum, until Dec. Festival, Sep 9-16; Faclan Heb- Aug 13. Festival, Oct 26-Nov 12. ridean book festival, Oct 25-28.

Airport 01851 702256 Airport 01955 602215 Airport 0844 481 6666 Airport 0844 481 5555 www.hial.co.uk/stornoway-airport www.hial.co.uk/wick-airport.html www.aberdeenairport.com www.glasgowairport.com Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen; Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen. Eastern Airways flights to Bergen, Eastern Airways flights direct Glasgow (from September 1 Onward connections to Bergen, Cardiff, Durham Tees Valley, to Isle of Man; Manchester, on behalf of Flybe). Onward Cardiff, Durham Tees Valley, Humberside, Kirkwall (from September Stornoway and Sumburgh (from connections to Bergen, Cardiff, Humberside, Leeds Bradford, 1 on behalf of Flybe), Leeds Bradford, September 1 on behalf of Flybe) Durham Tees Valley, Humberside, Newcastle, Norwich, Stavanger, Newcastle, Norwich, Southampton, Stornoway Tourist/Local Info 0141 204 4400 Leeds Bradford, Newcastle, Stavanger, Stornoway, Sumburgh (from www.peoplemakeglasgow.com Norwich, Stavanger, Wick Tourist/Local Info 0845 22 55 121 September 1 on behalf of Flybe), Wick www.wicktown.co.uk 48 Tourist/Local Info 01851 703088 Tourist/Local Info 01224 269180 www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk www.visitabdn.com

- NEWCASTLE DURHAM TEES VALLEY HUMBERSIDE LEEDS BRADFORD

Blackfriars Restaurant Hartlepool's Maritime Experience Lincoln Castle & Cathedral Women, Work & War BARE ESSENTIALS: DESTINATIONS WHERE WHERE WHERE WHERE Seven miles north-west of the Five miles east of Darlington Fifteen miles east of Scun­ Nine miles north-west of Leeds city centre. Metro rail link every and ten miles west of thorpe, 20 miles south of Hull, centre, seven miles from Brad- few minutes to the city, Middlesbrough. Taxi fare to 16 miles west of Grimsby, 30 ford. Regular express bus from Gateshead, the coast and Darlington approx £8. For car miles north of Lincoln. Regular bus and rail stations to terminal. Sunderland. Half-hourly bus hire see Europcar.co.uk bus services to major towns. Taxi time 25 mins. For car hire service. Taxi fare to city, approx Barnetby Station three miles see Europcar.co.uk £12. For car hire see Europcar. VISIT from airport with Intercity con- mima (Middlesbrough Institute co.uk nections via Don­caster. Approx VISIT of Modern Art) Centre Square; Royal Armouries, Leeds; Leeds taxi fare to Hull £26. For car hire Locomotion, the National City Museum, Millennium VISIT see Europcar.co.uk Great North Museum, Centre for Railway Museum at Shildon; Square; National Media Museum, Life, Newcastle; Gateshead Hartlepool’s Maritime VISIT Bradford; Salts Mill, Saltaire. Quays for the Baltic and Sage Experience, Historic Quay. Museums Quarter, Hull; The Gateshead. Deep, Hull; Lincoln Castle and STAY AT DoubleTree by Hilton, Leeds; STAY AT Cathedral; Ferens Art Gallery, Hull. STAY AT Rockliffe Hall, Hurworth on Radisson Blu, The Headrow, Sandman Signature, Hotel Tees; Headlam Hall, near STAY AT Leeds; the New Ellington, Indigo, Jesmond Dene House, Darlington; Crathorne Hall Forest Pines Hotel, Broughton; Leeds; Dubrovnik boutique all Newcastle; Hilton, Gateshead. Hotel, Yarm; Wynyard Hall. Cave Castle Hotel, Brough; hotel, Oak Avenue, Bradford. Willerby Manor, Willerby; The SHOP AT SHOP AT SHOP AT White Hart, Lincoln. Jules B, Jesmond; Cruise, Psyche, Linthorpe Rd, Retro Boutique, Headingley Princess Square, Newcastle; Middles­brough; The House, SHOP AT Lane, Leeds; Harvey Nichols, Van Mildert, MetroCentre and Yarm High Street; Leggs, Bailgate and Steep Hill area, Briggate, Leeds; Victoria Durham. Skinnergate, Darlington. Lincoln; Henri Beene, Quarter, Leeds. Abbeygate, Grimsby. DRINK AT DRINK AT DRINK AT Crown Posada, Side; The Forth, George and Dragon, Yarm; DRINK AT Baby Jupiter, York Place, Leeds; Pink Lane; Bridge Hotel, Castle Black Bull, Frosterley. The Wig & Mitre, Steep Hill, Haigys, Lumb Lane, Bradford. Garth – all Newcastle. Lincoln; Ye Olde Black Boy, EAT AT EAT AT High St, Hull. EAT AT Raby Hunt, Summerhouse; Chandelier by Mumtaz, Clarence House of Tides, Quayside; Sardis, Northgate, Darlington; EAT AT Dock, Leeds; Brasserie Blanc, Blackfriars; Caffè Vivo (Live Cow Inn, Sedgefield; The Figs Restaurant, Cleethorpes; Sovereign St, Leeds. Theatre); Red Mezze, Leazes Orangery, Rockliffe Hall. Ambiente Tapas, Humber St, WHAT’S ON Park Rd; Peace and Loaf, Hull; Winteringham Field, Women, Work & War, Leeds Jesmond – all Newcastle. WHAT’S ON Winteringham; Pipe and Glass, Hartlepool Festival of Illustration Industrial Museum at Armley South Dalton. WHAT’S ON 2017, Hartlepool Art Gallery, Mills, until Sep 24; Leeds Hadrian's Cavalry Exhibition, until Aug 26; Tokyo to the Tees WHAT’S ON Festival, Bramham Park, Aug across Hadrian's Wall, until Sep - exhibition commemorating Freedom Festival, Sep 1-3; 25-27; Leeds International 10; Dino Jaws, Life Science links between Teesside and Turner Prize 2017, Ferens Art Beer Festival, Sep 7-10; Leeds Centre, Newcastle, until Jan 8, Japan, Dorman Musuem, Gallery, Hull, Sep 26-Jan 7. Thought Bubble Festival, Sept 2018; Craft Beer Calling, Wylam Middlesbrough, until Dec 31. 18-24; Leeds International Film Brewery, Oct 26-28. Festival, Nov 1-16.

Airport 0871 882 1121 Airport 01325 332811 Airport 0844 887 7747 Airport 0871 288 2288 www.newcastleinternational.co.uk www.durhamteesvalleyairport.com www.humbersideairport.com www.leedsbradfordairport.co.uk Eastern Airways flights to Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen. Eastern Airways flights to Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen Aberdeen, Belfast, Cardiff, Isle Onward connections to Bergen, Aberdeen. Onward connections and Southampton. Onward of Man. Onward connections to Stavanger, Stornoway, Wick to Bergen, Stavanger, Stornoway, connections to Bergen, Stavanger, Bergen, Stavanger, Stornoway, Tourist/Local Info Wick Stornoway, Wick Wick 01642 729700 / 264957 Tourist/Local Info 01482 486600 Tourist/Local Info 0113 242 5242 Tourist/Local Info www.discoverteesvalley.co.uk www.visithullandeastyorkshire.com www.visitleeds.co.uk 0191 277 8000 / 0191 478 4222 www.teesvalley-ca.gov.uk www.visitlincolnshire.com www.yorkshire.com www.visitnewcastlegateshead.com www.yorkshire.com BELFAST ISLE OF MAN ANGLESEY CARDIFF

Ulster Folk and Transport Museum* Castletown Beaumaris Castle** Food & Drink Festival BARE ESSENTIALS: DESTINATIONS WHERE WHERE WHERE WHERE City Airport is three miles east One mile from Castletown, Six miles south east of Twelve miles west of Cardiff, of Belfast City Centre. Shuttle nine miles south west of and 20 miles north west of ten miles from Junction 33 on bus to Sydenham Station. Taxis Douglas. Regular buses di- Bangor. There are no car hire M4. Rail link, every hour, to city centre, approx. £10. rect to Douglas, Castletown, facilities on airport but this can connects airport to Cardiff Europcar info from Port Erin, Peel. Taxis to be arranged with Europcar. Central and Bridgend.­ For car www.europcar.co.uk Douglas approx £20. Europcar hire see Europcar.co.uk

info from www.europcar.co.uk VISIT VISIT Caernafon Castle; Beaumaris VISIT Titanic Experience, Belfast; VISIT Castle; Anglesey Sea Zoo, Cardiff Castle; Cardiff Bay Belfast Zoo; Ulster Folk and Peel Castle and House of Brynsiencyn; Oriel Ynys Môn – Visitor Centre, Wales Transport Museum. Manannan, Peel; Manx local cultural history, with art Millennium Centre, Cardiff Bay; Museum, Douglas; Laxey galleries dedicated to Charles Norwegian Church Arts Centre, STAY AT Wheel; Castle Rushen, Tunnicliffe and Kyffin Williams. Cardiff Bay; Dr Who Europa Hotel, Great Victoria St; Castletown; Milntown Estate, Experience, Cardiff Bay. Bullitt boutique hotel, Church Ramsey; Isle of Man Heritage STAY AT Lane; Malmaison, Victoria St. Treaddur Bay Hotel, beside the Railways. STAY AT sea, near airport; Bull Hotel, Peterstone Court, in the Usk SHOP AT Llangefni. Valley; St David’s Hotel & Spa, Co Couture, Chichester St; No STAY AT Mannin Hotel Douglas; Havannah St, Cardiff Bay. Alibis bookstore; Victoria Ramsey Park Hotel, Ramsey. SHOP AT Square shopping centre. Crafty T’Arts, Cemaes Bay; The SHOP AT SHOP AT Little Chilli Shop, Beaumaris; St Mary Street for specialist DRINK AT Strand Street, Douglas; James Pringle Weavers, shops; Splott Market Crown Bar liquor saloon, Tynwald Mills, St John’s; Llanfairpwllgwyngyll. (weekends), SE of city centre. Victoria St; Duke of York, Shakti Man, Ramsey. Commercial Court; Kitchen Bar, DRINK AT DRINK AT Victoria Square. DRINK AT Britannia Inn and Paddlers Pen and Wig, Park Grove; Park The British, Douglas; Bath & Return, both Holyhead; Ship Inn, Vaults, Park Place. EAT AT Bottle, Douglas; Creek Inn, Pentraeth. Mourne Seafood Bar, Bank St; Peel. The Bay, Port Erin; The EAT AT Barking Dog, Malone Road; The Potted Pig, High St; ffresh, Trafalgar, Ramsey EAT AT Coco, Linenhall St. on the Bay, Red Wharf Wales Millennium Centre; EAT AT Bay; Oyster Catcher, Rhosneigr; Purple Poppadom, Cowbridge WHAT’S ON 14 North Restaurant; Douglas The White Eagle, Rhoscolyn. Rd East. A Step in Time: The Story of quayside; Jean-Pierre’s Irish Dance, Ulster Folk and Bistro, Ramsey; The WHAT’S ON WHAT’S ON Transport Museum, until Jan 21; National Eisteddfod, near Cardiff International Food & Boatyard, Peel; Café Bar EastSide Arts Festival 2017, Bodedern, Aug 4-12; Round Drink Festival, Roald Dahl Plass, TWO-SIX, Derbyhaven. EastSide Visitor Centre, Aug Anglesey Race, Aug 5; Anglesey Jul 14-16; Classic Car Rally, 3-13; 2017 Women's Rugby WHAT’S ON Show, Aug 15-16; Anglesey Roald Dahl Plass, Aug 13; BBC World Cup, Ulster Rugby Castletown Festival, Aug 5; Marine Week, Aug 20-26; Antiques Roadshow, Cardiff Kingspan Stadium, Aug 9-26; Peel Traditional Boat Weekend, Beaumaris Food Festival, Sep Castle, Sep 6. FIFA World Cup Qualifier Peel Harbour, Aug 4-6; Isle of 2-3. Northern Ireland v Czech Man Festival of Motorcycling, Republic, Windsor Park, Sep 4. Aug 19-Sep 1.

Airport 028 9093 9093 Airport 01624 821600 Airport 01407 878056 Airport 01446 711111 www.belfastcityairport.com www.gov.im/categories/travel- www.anglesey.gov.uk/transport- www.cardiff-airport.com Eastern Airways flights to Isle of traffic-and-motoring/isle-of-man- and-roads/public-transport/ Eastern Airways flights to Man, Newcastle airport anglesey-airport/ Aberdeen, Anglesey, Newcastle. Tourist/Local Info Eastern Airways flights to Belfast, Eastern Airways flights to Cardiff Onward connections to Bergen, 028 9024 6609 Glasgow, Newcastle Tourist/Local Info Stavanger, Stornoway, Wick www.visitbelfast.com Tourist/Local Info www.visitanglesey.co.uk Tourist/Local Info 02920 873573 www.visitisleofman.com www.discoveranglesey.com www.visitcardiff.com www.southernwales.com

* © Northern Ireland Tourist Board. ** © Crown copyright (Visit Wales). ** © Crown Board. Tourist * © Northern Ireland 50

NORWICH SOUTHAMPTON RODEZ NORWAY

Norwich Cathedral The Bargate Rodez Cathedral Pulpit Rock, Stavanger* BARE ESSENTIALS: DESTINATIONS WHERE WHERE WHERE STAVANGER Three miles north of the city. Five miles north of city. Parkway Six miles north-west of Rodez. Norway’s fourth largest city lies Hourly bus service into the city Station beside terminal, three Taxis to the centre of town cost on the country’s south-west centre. Approx taxi fare to trains hourly to Southam­pton about €25. For car hire see coast. The airport is just nine Norwich £7. For car hire see and London Waterloo. Buses Europcar.com miles out of town. Europcar.co.uk hourly to the city. For car hire

see Europcar.co.uk VISIT VISIT VISIT Musée Soulages gallery; Musée Pulpit Rock – a natural rock Norwich Cathedral, The Close; VISIT Fenaille (archaeology and formation that overlooks the Norwich Castle, Elm Hill; SeaCity Museum, Havelock Rd; history); Rodez Cathedral. Lysefjord. Sandringham Estate, Norfolk; Tudor House & Garden, Bugle Norwich Puppet Theatre, St; Solent Sky, Hall of Aviation, STAY AT STAY AT Mercure Cathédrale, on Avenue Whitefriars, Norwich. Gilbert Rd South. The Clarion, Myrhegaarden, Victor Hugo; La Ferme de Skagen Brygge, all in the city STAY AT STAY AT Bourran (four star city centre); centre; Sola Strand Hotel, on The Maids Head Hotel, The White Star Tavern and Aux Berges de l’Aveyron at the beach, near the airport. Tombland; De Vere Dunston Hall Dining Rooms, Oxford St; Grand Onet-le-Château. Hotel & Golf Club, Ipswich Rd; Harbour Hotel, West Quay Rd; WHAT’S ON Marriott Sprowston Manor Hotel Best Western Chilworth Manor. SHOP AT 2017 Nuart Festival, Aug Open-air markets at Place du & Country Club; Barnham Broom 31-Sep 3. Bourg, Wed morning, or in Place Hotel & Spa, Honingham Rd; SHOP AT WestQuay Shopping Centre, du Sacré Coeur, Fri and Sat Norfolk Mead Hotel, Coltishall. city centre; Antiques Quarter, afternoons; speciality shops in BERGEN SHOP AT Old Northam Rd; The Marlands lanes behind Cathedral; Bergen airport Flesland is Jarrold’s, London St; Ginger Shopping Centre, Civic Chocolaterie Agnès et Pierre, approximately 12 miles south- Ladies Wear, Timberhill. Centre Rd. place de la Cité; Maison du west of the centre of Bergen. Livre, Passage des Maçons. DRINK AT DRINK AT VISIT The Fat Cat, West End St; The The Cellar, West Marland Rd; DRINK AT Troldhaugen, the home of Adam & Eve, Bishopgate; The The Duke of Wellington, Bugle Le Divan, rue Bétaille; Le Café composer Edvard Grieg. Wine Press, Woburn Court, St; The Pig in the Wall, Western de la Paix, place Jean Jaurès; Norway in a Nutshell – a short Guildhall Hill; The Last Wine Esplanade. Au Bureau, esplanade des tour (ideally three days) of some Bar, St Georges St. Rutènes. the dramatic scenery nearby, EAT AT including the Breathtaking Flam EAT AT Olive Tree, Oxford St; SeaCity EAT AT Railway. Tatlers, Tombland; Mambo Museum café, Havelock Road; Les Jardins de l’Acropolis, rue Jambo, Lower Goat Lane; Coriander Lounge, Below Bar. d’Athènes; restaurant Isabelle STAY AT Umberto’s Trattoria Auguy, place Carrière. Radisson Blu Royal or the Italia, St Benedicts St. WHAT’S ON mid-market Thon Bergen Southampton Fake Festival, WHAT’S ON Brygge, both on the old WHAT’S ON Mayflower Park, Aug 12; Calder: Forgeron de géantes quayside. Noirwich Crime Writing Festival, Southampton Boat Show, libellules (Forger of gigantic various venues, Sep 14-17; Mayflower Park/Town Quay, dragonflies), Soulages Museum, WHAT’S ON Norwich Science Festival 2017, Sep 15-24; Oktoberfest until Oct 29. Bergen food festival, The Forum, Oct 21-29. Southampton, Guildhall Square, Sep 1-3. Oct 26-29.

Airport 01603 411923 Airport 0870 040 0009 Airport +33 (0)5 65 75 76 77 Stavanger Airport + 47 67 03 10 00 www.norwichairport.co.uk www.southamptonairport.com www.aeroport-rodez.fr www.avinor.no/en/airport/stavanger Eastern Airways flights to Eastern Airways flights to Eastern Airways flights to Bergen Airport + 47 67 03 15 55 Aberdeen. Onward connections Aberdeen, Leeds Bradford, Rodez. Paris Orly. Seasonal services www.avinor.no/en/airport/bergen to Bergen, Stavanger, Stornoway, Tourist/Local Info 023 8083 3333 to Southampton. Onward Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen. Wick www.discoversouthampton.co.uk connections to Leeds Bradford. Onward connections to Cardiff, Tourist/Local Info 01603 213999 Tourist/Local Info Durham Tees Valley, Humberside, www.visitnorwich.co.uk  +33 (0)5 65 75 76 77 Leeds Bradford, Newcastle, www.tourisme.grande-rodez.com Norwich, Southampton, Stornoway,

www.tourisme-aveyron.com Wick

* Terje Rakke/Nordic Life/Region Stavanger Rakke/Nordic * Terje

52

BARE ESSENTIALS:EXPLORATION DESTINATIONS EXPRESS Aberdeen, effective September1. Airways fliesforFlybeto Eastern www.hial.co.uk/kirkwall-airport Kirkwall Airport01856886210 Glasgow, effectiveSeptember 1. Flybe toAberdeen,Edinburghand Aberdeen. to dailycharterservices Frequent www.hial.co.uk/sumburgh-airport/ Sumburgh Airport01950460905 SHETLAND/ORKNEY Festival, Stromness, Sept15-17. Science Festival,Sept7-13;Blues Hotel, Kirkwall. Merkister Hotel,HarryLoch;Lynnfield Mangus’s Cathedral;OldManofHoy. Brodgar andStonesofStenness;St and thestonecircles ofRing Heritage SiteofSkaraBraesettlement Neolithic Orkney, includingtheWorld see europcar.co.uk hire –Europcar franchiseatairport, Two milessouth-eastofKirkwall. Car Shetland Wool Week, Sep23-Oct 1. Shetland FoodFair, Sep15-17; Central mainland. Resort, Unst;ScallowayHotel, Busta HouseHotel,Brae;SaxaVord Shetland Museum,Lerwick. tipofBritain; Unst, thenorthernmost Mareel, Lerwick;MuckleFlugga, Flybe partnership(from September1). flights toSumburgh aspartofthe Sumburgh airportsandscheduled contract flightstobothScatstaand Airwaysoperatesoilindustry Eastern WHAT’S ON AT STAY VISIT WHAT’S ON AT STAY VISIT SCATSTA/SUMBURGH

Eastern Airways flies for Airwaysfliesfor Eastern

CORPORATE ROUTES CORPORATE

www.visitbristol.co.uk 321 0101 0333 Info Tourist/Local Chester and Toulouse to flights charter Airways Eastern www.bristolairport.co.uk 4444 0871 334 Airport Lido Bristol,Clifton. Michael Caines,CollegeGreen; Pieminister, StokesCroft; St. Bar, Park Lounge and Pool Room Elbow The micro-brewery, Colston St; award-winning Zero Degrees Circus. Cabot Causeway; Cribbs Broadmead; at Mall Galleries Nicholas Markets and St St; Park and Village Clifton Clifton. Georgian merchant’s housein Almondsbury; No38Clifton, Aztec Hotel&Spa,West, Great Western Dock­ Narrow Quay;SSGreat Britain, M Shed,Harbourside;Arnolfini, Europcar.co.uk. see hire Weston-super-Mare. For car to services local Also single. £7 mins. 30 time journey half-hourly to centre, city approx service Coach Bristol. of south-west miles Eight various venues, Sep 1-10. Sep venues, various 2017, Puppetry of Festival 10-13; Aug Estate, Bristol 2017, Fiesta Court Ashton Bristol International Balloon EAT AT EAT ATDRINK SHOP AT AT STAY VISIT WHAT’S ON BRISTOL

Balloon Fiesta yard.

www.visitchester.com 647 7868; 0845 Info Tourist/Local Bristol and Toulouse to flights charter Airways Eastern www.aviationparkgroup.co.uk 01244Airport 538568 C 4; May Chester starts Museum; Chester – Races amphitheatre; Grosvenor roman Zoo; Chester Europcar.co.uk. Chester. of south-west miles Four Racecourse, Sep 8-9. Polo Weekend, Chester 15; Challenge Cup Roodee Chester Cathedral, until Oct Sculpture Exhibition, ARK Table, MusicHallPassage. Jules, NorthgateSt;Chef’s Grosvenor, EastgateSt;Chez Simon RadleyattheChester St. 15, Foregate Number St; Tap, Bridge Lower Brewery The Dublin Packet, St; Northgate St; Werburgh Botanist, The The Rows;Grosvenor Centre. St; Carden Park,Broxton Rd. Chester Grosvenor, Eastgate ABode, Grosvenor Rd; STAY AT STAY VISIT CHESTER WHAT’S ON AT EAT AT DRINK SHOP AT Sculpture, ChesterCathedral athedral.

For car hire see For carhire see

www.toulouse-tourisme.com 18 892 01 33 80 info Tourist Bristol and Chester to flights charter Airways Eastern www.toulouse.aeroport.fr/en 00 00 38 825 +33 Airport For carhire seeEuropcar.com minutes, €5.Taxi from €25. Shuttle busevery20 Five mileswestofthecity. Metz. Musée desAugustins,ruede Cathedral; SpaceCity; de laDaurade;StÉtienne’s Place duCapitoleandQuai December 2018. Exhibition, SpaceCity, until August 4;Astronauts, the festival, citycentre, until Toulouse d’Étésummer Jules Chalande. delaMaréchale, rue place delaDaurade;Les Peyrolières; Les4Z’arts, Cave auCassoulet,Rue L’Amphitryon, Colomiers;La bar, rueJoseph-Vié. Mouette; ErichCoffie music Péniche LeCridela Le Ramier;7Discoteca; rue CroixArts; Baragnon. des rue Hugo; Victor Marché Romiguières. Grand Balcon,rue Carmes; LePère Léon;Le Grand Hôteldel’Opéra;Côté TOULOUSE VISIT WHAT’S ON AT EAT ATDRINK AT SHOP AT STAY River Garonne, Toulouse

ESSENTIAL TRAVEL WHEN YOU FLY WITH US… …we'll make your journey FLY FOR LESS The Eastern Airways 4-4-3 Route Pass offers savings for frequent flyers of up easier and more enjoyable to 25 per cent when you buy four return Our customers choose Eastern Airways Cardiff, Leeds Bradford, Southampton and tickets for the price of three. because they want their journey to be as Newcastle, and is a dedicated security The 4-4-3 Route Pass offers maximum convenient, speedy and hassle-free as channel for Eastern Airways passengers to flexibility, lounge access and fee-free possible. use and avoid busy airport terminal security changes, and is available on all Eastern queues. We aim to satisfy these key requirements by Airways UK domestic services – as is offering frequent services (up to four weekday With Eastern Airways operating the largest our Zonal Route Pass, which offers even departures, plus Sunday services), same day number of scheduled services from Aber- bigger savings of up to 40 per cent. deen, we offer exclusive use of our dedicated returns on most routes, and free hand lug- The Zonal Route Pass is for customers business lounge, located next to our depar- gage and hold baggage allowance. buying six return flights, or 12 one-way ture gates. Executive lounge access is also sectors, on the same route. You can Our highly trained cabin attendants also offer offered at Cardiff, Leeds Bradford, Norwich pick and choose your flights, making a fully complimentary in-flight and and Southampton for passengers travelling as many changes as you need (subject branded service, while customers with on fully flexible tickets. fully flexible tickets can enjoy complimentary to availability). The Zonal Route Pass lounge access at selected airports. As you board your aircraft you will is available on all domestic Eastern see our liveried valet baggage cart for you Airways routes and also comes with Our 30-minute check-in time, along with fast to place larger items of hand luggage by the complimentary lounge access, where track security at selected airports, are a big aircraft steps. Your hand luggage will be there available. plus when time is of the essence and queues for you on the valet baggage cart at your at both will be short, enabling you to make the destination. The Air Discount Scheme (ADS) was most of your ticketless travel, pioneered by brought in by the Scottish Government Once again our aim is to make your travel as Eastern Airways a decade ago. for the benefit of the remotest communi- pleasant an experience as possible and we ties in the Highlands and Islands and Fast Track is currently available at Aberdeen, wish you a most enjoyable trip. provides a discount of 50 per cent on the core air fare on eligible routes. SAFETY AND SECURITY Routes eligible with Eastern Airways are Stornoway to Aberdeen and Wick to Above all else, we want you to enjoy flying Aberdeen. with us and we’re confident that in the overwhelming majority of cases you will do For more information on flying for so. However, while the vast majority of less, see www.easternairways.com, passengers flying in the world today behave or contact your travel agent or our impeccably, there is a greater awareness of reservations team on 08703 669100. isolated incidents of disruptive behaviour, sometimes dubbed “air rage”. While this LASER DEVICES isn’t a major problem at Eastern Airways, the A safety issue that has been raised in the safety and security of our passengers and authorities on arrival and may face arrest airline industry and which has attracted crew is our number one priority and we and a heavy fine – or up to two years in jail. some wider publicity recently is the number don’t want our customers to experience any Severe restrictions will also be placed on of laser attacks against aircraft. It is a matter behaviour that makes them feel their future travel with Eastern Airways. uncomfortable, or to be put in a situation about which the Civil Aviation Authority that compromises safety. Similarly, we remind customers that there (CAA) is very concerned. is a strict No Smoking policy on board all Targeting an aircraft with a laser is reckless, Our Zero Tolerance policy is directed at of our aircraft and in all of our lounges. This dangerous and also illegal. Just a microsec- disruptive behaviour, which might include includes the use of electronic cigarettes ond of laser energy from a powerful laser smoking, drunkenness, aggression or or any cigarette substitute device that source is enough to permanently damage abusive language towards a customer or a emits a vapour or has a power source or the eye. member of crew. produces heat and or a light. We do not If you do happen to see a laser beam from Our crews are fully trained to deal with this permit electronic cigarettes to be charged the cabin or if it enters the cabin, you may kind of incident and therefore we remind in our lounges. Electronic cigarettes may be tempted to look at it. However, you customers that to disobey a lawful com- be carried on board subject to the following should not look at the beam or try to locate mand given by a crew member is to commit conditions: its source. Just look away or look down an offence under the UK Air Navigation Or- • Carried on the person only towards the floor of the cabin. Do report the der. Offenders who persistently misbehave • No refills incident to your cabin crew. on a flight will be handed to the appropriate • Strictly not permitted for use Thanks for your attention. THE LAST WORD with Harry Pearson EVERY PICTUREHOUSE TELLS A STORY

Britain’s provincial cinemas often boast a hidden and surprising history. Who, for example, would have thought that the Forum, in the Northumberland market town of Hexham, was once the EASTERN AIRWAYS music hall where the magician, “Professor” Charles Morritt, first performed the trick that would become the Illusion of the Vanishing Elephant, A SUPERIOR MODEL subsequently performed by Harry Houdini to gasps of wonder from a crowd of 5,000 people at the New York Hippodrome? Morritt, I should add, – Up to 4 daily departures*† could not afford an elephant. He made do with a donkey. * It also seems unlikely that anybody – Same day return journeys stopping off at the seafront in the Teesside seaside town of Redcar – Complimentary on board drinks & snacks would look at the somewhat unassuming Regent Cinema and imagine that this was the place that away in a storm). Known locally as the Breen did some comic patter. He sang – Express check-in service inspired a catchphrase, which would Glasshouse, in honour of its glass roof, a witty song and then at some point a one day bring laughter to a TV the New Pavilion Theatre had a stage hand went outside for a smoke * audience of 24 million people. repertory company of actors during the and left a side entrance open. The sea – Fast track security channel winter and put on variety shows for the wind blew cold across the stage. “Ooh, Since my parents spent their early * married life living in a flat in Redcar, on summer season. shut that door!” cried Billy Breen. The – Executive airport lounges audience, perhaps imagining some what was then fittingly called In 1950 my mother and father went to double entendre, hooted with laughter. Newcomers Road, the story was part the New Pavilion Theatre to see the Thirty years later, by now having easternairways.com of family legend. Back in the immediate latest variety show, Barry Wood’s changed his name to Larry Grayson, post-War years, Redcar was a boom Radio Tymes. The bill for the evening Billy Breen would still be delighting why fl y any other way? town – not as posh a resort as nearby featured Vic Roy and Lucille (a.k.a. audiences with his catchphrase as Saltburn, with its fancy hotels and Dance Stylists); a comedian called Syd host of The Generation Game, one of palm court tearooms, it attracted an Cheshire (“The Lad from Yorkshire”); the most popular programmes in the altogether more boisterous crowd. This singing group The Dallas Boys; and a history of British television. was particularly true during Glasgow camp comedian-cum-drag artist, Holiday Week – seven days in August named Billy Breen and tagged as The As Billy Breen, Larry Grayson did three that saw the Clydeside shipyards close Breezy Baron of Burlesque. summers at the New Pavilion Theatre, down and hordes of rugged Weegies picking up gossip from the local Billy Breen came from the Midlands. descend on the town for a spree, and landladies that he would later use in his dustups with local steelworkers. To this He’d been born William White to an act. When he died he left £10,000 to day my mother still refers to any scene unmarried woman who quickly gave the Redcar Lifeboat Station “to repay of pandemonium as “Like Redcar in him up for adoption. When he was six, some of the kindness shown all those the Glasgow Holiday Week” – and she Billy’s adoptive mother died. His years ago by the townsfolk”. The tends to shudder when she says it too. adoptive sister Flo brought him up, theatre that had given him his start had aided by his “Auntie Ethel” – a woman Redcar offered entertainment beyond closed in 1965. It became a cinema he would discover much later was beer and fisticuffs, however. It boasted shortly afterwards. My Mum took me actually his birth mother. an 800-seat theatre that had been built there to see The Jungle Book and The in 1928 at the entrance to Coatham Sitting in the stalls, my newly-wed Lady and the Tramp. No doors were Pier (the pier itself had been washed parents knew nothing of this. Billy left open. TO THIS DAY MY MOTHER STILL REFERS TO ANY SCENE OF PANDEMONIUM AS “LIKE REDCAR IN THE GLASGOW HOLIDAY WEEK” * At selected airports † Except Saturdays 54

FD8813_EA_Inflight Ad_March 2015.indd 1 09/03/2015 13:14 EASTERN AIRWAYS A SUPERIOR MODEL

– Up to 4 daily departures*† – Same day return journeys* – Complimentary on board drinks & snacks – Express check-in service – Fast track security channel* – Executive airport lounges* easternairways.com why fl y any other way?

* At selected airports † Except Saturdays

FD8813_EA_Inflight Ad_March 2015.indd 1 09/03/2015 13:14

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