Minarets and Miniskirts
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Issue: Fashion Industry Fashion Industry
Issue: Fashion Industry Fashion Industry By: Vickie Elmer Pub. Date: January 16, 2017 Access Date: October 1, 2021 DOI: 10.1177/237455680302.n1 Source URL: http://businessresearcher.sagepub.com/sbr-1863-101702-2766972/20170116/fashion-industry ©2021 SAGE Publishing, Inc. All Rights Reserved. ©2021 SAGE Publishing, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Can it adapt to changing times? Executive Summary The global fashion business is going through a period of intense change and competition, with disruption coming in many colors: global online marketplaces, slower growth, more startups and consumers who now seem bored by what once excited them. Many U.S. shoppers have grown tired of buying Prada and Chanel suits and prefer to spend their money on experiences rather than clothes. Questions about fashion companies’ labor and environmental practices are leading to new policies, although some critics remain unconvinced. Fashion still relies on creativity, innovation and consumer attention, some of which comes from technology and some from celebrities. Here are some key takeaways: High-fashion brands must now compete with “fast fashion,” apparel sold on eBay and vintage sites. Risk factors for fashion companies include China’s growth slowdown, reduced global trade, Brexit, terrorist attacks and erratic commodity prices. Plus-size women are a growing segment of the market, yet critics say designers are ignoring them. Overview José Neves launched Farfetch during the global economic crisis of 2008, drawing more on his background in IT and software than a love of fashion. His idea: Allow small designers and fashion shops to sell their wares worldwide on a single online marketplace. The site will “fetch” fashion from far-off places. -
Women's and Gender History in Central Eastern Europe, 18Th to 20Th Centuries
Forthcoming in: Irina Livezeanu, Arpad von Klimo (eds), The Routledge History of East Central Europe since 1700 (Routledge 2015) Women‘s and Gender History1 Krassimira Daskalova and Susan Zimmermann Since the 1980s, historians working on East Central Europe, as on other parts of the world, have shown that historical experience has been deeply gendered. This chapter focuses on the modern history of women, and on gender as a category of analysis which helps to make visible and critically interrogate ―the social organization of sexual difference‖2. The new history of women and gender has established, as we hope to demonstrate in this contribution, a number of key insights. First, gender relations are intimately related to power relations. Gender, alongside dominant and non-dominant sexualities, has been invoked persistently to produce or justify asymmetrical and hierarchical arrangements in society and culture as a whole, to restrict the access of women and people identifying with non-normative sexualities to material and cultural goods, and to devalue and marginalize their ways of life. Second, throughout history both equality and difference between women and men have typically resulted in disadvantage for women. Men and women have generally engaged in different socio-cultural, political and economic activities, and this gender-based division of labor, which has itself been subject to historical change, has tended to put women in an inferior position. Even when women and men appeared as equals in one sphere of life, this perceived equality often resulted in drawbacks or an increased burden for women in another area and women‘s contribution was still devalued as compared to men‘s. -
Bulgarian Gender Research Foundation
Bulgarian Gender Research Foundation Gender Stereotyping - a pervasive and overlooked source of Discrimination against Women in Bulgaria Special Alternative Report to the 4th, 5th, 6th and 7th governmental report 52nd session of CEDAW Committee /9-27 July, 2012/ June 2012 Organizational contacts: Bulgarian Gender Research Foundation 5, Hristo and Evl. Georguiev blvd., Sofia 1142 Bulgaria tel./fax: 00359 2 9635357 e-mail :[email protected] www.bgrf.org Special pre-publication version BGRF All rights reserved Authors: Genoveva Tisheva and Albena Koycheva For contacts: [email protected] [email protected] and [email protected] A. Introduction The present report represents a study based on the results of the research and monitoring activities of the Bulgarian Gender Research Foundation /BGRF/ and on the experience of the organization with women’s rights litigation in the last 5-7 years. The experience of partner organizations working in the field of human rights and women’s rights in the country is also taken into account for the observations, conclusions and recoomendations made in the report. 1 This is a special report of the BGRF on the cross- cutting issue of gender stereotyping in media and advertisement and of stereotyped and victimizing attitude of the institutions, including the judiciary towards women in Bulgaria. The information, data and analysis are compiled by Genoveva Tisheva and Albena Koycheva. Organizational profile of the submitting organization- The Bulgarian Gender Research Foundation was established in 1998. It is a non- governmental organization registered in Sofia City Court under №8516/1998. BGRF is a foundation according to the Bulgarian Law on non-profit organizations - a non- membership structure organization. -
The Mini Skirt Danielle Hueston New York City College of Technology Textiles
The Mini Skirt Danielle Hueston New York City College of Technology Textiles When I was six my mother and I took one of our weekly day shopping trips to the mall. On our way back we stopped at this local thrift store. This being one of the first times I had ever experienced one, everything seemed so different and weird, in a good way. I wasn’t used to there only being one of everything, or one store that sold clothes, books, toys, home decor and shoes.Walking down the ‘bottoms aisle’ is where I first came across it. It was black and flowy, probably a cotton material, with a black elastic band around the waist. I wanted it, I needed it. It was the perfect mini skirt. It reminded me of the one I saw Regina George wear in the Hallway Scene in the movie ‘Mean Girls’ a few months prior and had to get it, even though it was a “little” big. There was only one, I was going to make it work. When Monday came I wasted no time showing off my new skirt at school. It made me feel like a whole new person. At some point of the day however my teacher had stepped out of the room to talk to another teacher, in conjunction one of my classmates playfully grabbed my pencil out of my hand, to which I decided to chase him around the room to retrieve it back. I tripped and my skirt fell right to my ankles, in front of the entire class. -
GARBED for GOD Defend the Gospel Tracts
GARBED FOR GOD (M odesty/Im m odesty) —Also for Adam and his wife the Lord God made tunics of skin, This Tract P resented B y and clothed them.“ DDeeffeenndd -Genesis 3:21 TThhee GGoossppeell TTrraaccttss M ICHAEL PICKFORD www.defendthegospel.com 29 mandate of God, we have seen His standards for INTRODUCTION: modesty. Make sacrifices and follow them. A few more good questions to ask when clothing yourself: To be garbed is to be dressed in a distinctive Is it doubtful? way. There is a certain, distinctive way in which Could it be a stumbling block to Christians ought to dress themselves. I’m dealing others? in this tract with how we dress when we come to Will it hurt my influence upon others for worship services, although the principles will godliness? apply. But I’m addressing the subject of how we, as Would I mind if Jesus saw me wearing this children of God, should clothe ourselves day by attire? day. Just ask yourself questions before you begin. His eye is always on you (Hebrews 4:13)! Think about the clothes you wear to work, to school, to work, to the mall, or grocery shopping, CONCLUSION: when you’re casual, when doing yard work... In this tract, we have dealt with the idea of Are you dressed for deity? being Garbed for God. We have considered… Are you robed for righteousness? The Mind of God... Are you clothed for Christ? The Mandate of God... Are you garbed for God? The Manipulation of Godlessness…. The Modesty of the Godly. -
1960S Fashion Opposition to the Vietnam War by the Young and an Age of Social Protest—Led to New, Radically Different Youthful Clothing Styles
1950s, Mother and Daughter Styles 1960s fashion Opposition to the Vietnam War by the young and an age of social protest—led to new, radically different youthful clothing styles 1960 1967 1960’s: Mary Quant invents the miniskirt and helps to usher in a new age… She supported the anti-parent philosophy of life as fun “Working class design, British fashion, Rock and Roll, The Beatles, Carnaby Street…all of a sudden everything came together.” Robert Orbach Lesley Hornby= Twiggy In the 60’s Fashion became central to a young person’s identity • Known for the high fashion mod look created by Mary Quant • Twiggy changed the world of fashion with her short-haired, androgynous look • Embodiment of Youth-quake generation • Face of the decade • Wide-eyed elfin features and slight builds— hence her nickname • Her style has dominated the runways for forty years • She was also famous for drawing long, fake eyelashes under her bottom lashes. These are, unsurprisingly, named “Twiggys.” • Twiggy was regarded as one of the faces of 1960s Swinging London 1960’s model Twiggy recreates the flapper look of the 1920’s. Two revolutionary decades for women and fashion New fabrics that contributed to new clothing styles • Polyester: easy-care, easy-to-wear • New fabrics were comfortable to the touch, wrinkle free, and care free • Perfect match for simple miniskirts and short tunic dresses of the era • Vinyl (also called PVC) was a shiny, wet- look plastic, easy to color and print with flamboyant designs. Was used at first for outerwear then for everything including -
Violation of Women's Rights: a Cause and Consequence of Trafficking In
violation of women’s rights A cause and consequence of traffi cking in women La Strada International Violation of Women’s Rights A cause and consequence of trafficking in women ‘Violation of women’s rights: a cause and consequence of traffi cking in women’ is produced by La Strada International (lsi), which is a network of nine independent human rights ngos (Non-Governmental Organisations) in Belarus, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, the Czech Republic, Macedo- nia, Moldova, the Netherlands, Poland and Ukraine. © La Strada International (lsi) Amsterdam, 8 March 2008 www.lastradainternational.org Text: Bregje Blokhuis Cover logo design: Fame, Bulgaria Cover design: Charley Klinkenberg English editing: Katrin and Brian McGauran Layout: Sander Pinkse Boekproductie The author would like to thank everybody who contributed to this report. All rights reserved. The contents of this publication may be freely used and copied for educational and other non-commercial purposes, provided that any such reproduction is accompanied by an acknowledgement of lsi as the source. This publication and its dissemination would not have been possible without the generous support of Cordaid and Mama Cash, and lsi’s donors: Foundation doen, icco and the Sigrid Rausing Trust. the sigrid rausing trust Table of contents Foreword 7 Acronyms 8 Terminology 9 Executive summary 11 Recommendations 17 1 Introduction 21 2 Human traffi cking in the La Strada countries 25 2.1 What is traffi cking in human beings? 25 2.2 The scope of traffi cking in human beings 29 2.3 Traffi cking -
Rural Women's Livelihoods and Unique Transition Experiences in Bulgaria Dissertation
TEXTILE FACTORIES AND SUBSISTENCE PLOTS: RURAL WOMEN’S LIVELIHOODS AND UNIQUE TRANSITION EXPERIENCES IN BULGARIA DISSERTATION Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of The Ohio State University By Maria Catharina Polderman, M.A. ***** The Ohio State University 2006 Dissertation Committee: Dr. Kendra McSweeney, Adviser Approved by Dr. Paul Robbins Dr. Linda Lobao ________________________ Dr. Darla Munroe Adviser Graduate Program in Geography ABSTRACT The purpose of this study is to explore rural women’s livelihoods under varying trajectories of transition, which might be unevenly distributed and experienced across space, generations, and ethnicity. Previous research has shown that post-socialist transitions are unique, complex, and spatially uneven processes, with multiple outcomes. Much, however, remains poorly understood regarding these processes. The dominant macro-level focus of neo-liberal and evolutionary theories on transition has not been particularly helpful in understanding experiences of post-socialist rural women. It is therefore critical to complement this work with a focus on the micro- scale. Literature on transition ethnography, women and economic restructuring, and feminist political ecology has shown how insights at the micro-scale can begin to predict and explain the changes in rural women’s livelihoods. Overall, it is clear that incorporation in the global economy and the economic restructuring associated with transition has profound and differential impacts on women’s livelihoods and everyday lives. This literature does not make clear, however, whether rural women in particular are ultimately better or worse off, how transition experiences vary among rural women, and to what degree these are influenced by local uneven development. -
Bulgaria SIGI 2019 Category Low SIGI Value 2019 23%
Country Bulgaria SIGI 2019 Category Low SIGI Value 2019 23% Discrimination in the family 27% Legal framework on child marriage 50% Percentage of girls under 18 married 1% Legal framework on household responsibilities 50% Proportion of the population declaring that children will suffer if mothers are working outside home for a pay 56% Female to male ratio of time spent on unpaid care work 2.0 Legal framework on inheritance 0% Legal framework on divorce 25% Restricted physical integrity 16% Legal framework on violence against women 75% Proportion of the female population justifying domestic violence 18% Prevalence of domestic violence against women (lifetime) 23% Sex ratio at birth (natural =105) 105.8 Legal framework on reproductive rights 0% Female population with unmet needs for family planning 14% Restricted access to productive and financial resources 30% Legal framework on working rights 100% Proportion of the population declaring this is not acceptable for a woman in their family to work outside home for a pay 6% Share of managers (male) 61% Legal framework on access to non-land assets 25% Share of house owners (male) - Legal framework on access to land assets 25% Share of agricultural land holders (male) 77% Legal framework on access to financial services 25% Share of account holders (male) 48% Restricted civil liberties 20% Legal framework on civil rights 0% Legal framework on freedom of movement 0% Percentage of women in the total number of persons not feeling safe walking alone at night 64% Legal framework on political participation 50% Share of the population that believes men are better political leaders than women 44% Percentage of male MP’s 76% Legal framework on access to justice 0% Share of women declaring lack of confidence in the justice system 56% Note: Higher values indicate higher inequality. -
PETTICOAT PARADISE by Siobhan Frederick
.. • ~ TURNABOUT PRESENTS PETTICOAT PARADISE ....................................................................................................A STORY o' TRANSV~STI SM ..................................................................................................... By Siobhan Frederick PETTICOAT PARADISE aaa 000 By Siobhan Fredericks DOD DOD A TURNABOUT BOOK ODD The warm sunshine felt good on Simon Garret's shoulders as he stood by the mast of his thirty-foot sloop which was knifing through the impossibly blue waters of the Caribbean. He savored the clean salt air in nis nostrils and delighted at the way Published by the Abbe de Choisy Press the wind whipped through his skirts, send P. o. Box 4053, Grand Central Station ing them swirling lacily about hi.s nylon New York, New York 10017 clad legs, an occasional gust ruffling the fri.lls on his sheer panties. For Slmon, a young man of twenty-five, this was as complete freedom as he could ever wish for. Whenever he was able to tear himself ·away from his typewriter for a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a week or so, he'd abandon hi.s beach-house in Antigua for the open seas. Since Slmon was a free-lance wri.ter and a successful one, these outings occurred wi.th satisfy ing regularity. Copyright @ 1968 Slmon's custom was to start each trip by the Abbe de Choisy Press in his usual male attire, then, as soon as practical, anchor his boat offshore, go below decks and change to his beloved fe male frills -- bra, panties, chemise-slip, stockings and garterbelt, and miniskirt, ALL RIGHTS ARE RESERVED topped off with a realistic hairpiece and a flawless makeup job. -
Female Migrants – the New Nomads in Old Europe the Gender Specific Dimensions of Migration
Female Migrants – the New Nomads in Old Europe The gender specific dimensions of migration Undocumented Worker Transitions EU Sixth Framework Programme Contract Number: 044272 Prepared by Antonina Zhelyazkova International Centre for Minority Studies and Intercultural Relations ] December 2008 The gender dimensions of migration The Undocumented Worker Transitions project This report is one of several reports prepared by the Undocumented Worker Transitions (UWT) project, which has been funded by the EU Sixth Framework Programme (Contract Number: 044272) from March 2007 to February 2009. It is co- ordinated by the Working Lives Research Institute (WLRI) at London Metropolitan University, UK, with partners in six other EU Member States. The partners are: Forschungs- und Beratungsstelle Arbeitswelt (FORBA) in Austria; the Centre for Sociology of Work, Employment and Training, at the Université Libre de Bruxelles (ULB) in Belgium; the International Centre for Minority Studies and Intercultural Relations (IMIR) in Bulgaria; Roskilde University in Denmark; the Laboratory of Research on Immigration and Social Transformations (UNIVE) of Ca’ Foscari University in Venice, in Italy; and Gabinet d’Estudis Socials (GES) in Spain. The project website is at: www.undocumentedmigrants.eu UWT 2 The gender dimensions of migration Contents Contents...................................................................................................................................... 3 1. Research methodology .......................................................................................................... -
Iris Van Herpen: Transforming Fashion – Descriptive Audio Tour Stop 1: Introduction Welcome to Iris Van Herpen: Transforming Fashion at the Royal Ontario Museum
FINAL English text - May 10, 2018 Iris van Herpen: Transforming Fashion – Descriptive Audio Tour Stop 1: Introduction Welcome to Iris van Herpen: Transforming Fashion at the Royal Ontario Museum. This exhibition extends through two galleries and features collections by Dutch designer and couturier Iris van Herpen. Her earlier collections, from 2008 to 2011, are located in the Patricia Harris Gallery of Textiles and Costume, and more recent collections are in the Roloff Beny Gallery. Also in the Roloff Beny Gallery is the related immersive installation Philip Beesley: Transforming Space. Together, they take you on a captivating exploration into design, fashion, technology and the world around us. This descriptive audio tour consists of nine stops featuring van Herpen’s collections and touchable samples from her designs. All stops are marked by floor labels around the exhibition. Van Herpen’s bold creations have earned international acclaim for being at the forefront of experimentation and collaboration. She creates extraordinary new shapes using technologies like 3D printing and materials such as metal umbrella ribs and magnets. She also collaborates with leading architects, engineers and scientists to create her stunning and mystifying haute couture collections. Canadian architect Philip Beesley is one of her longest-standing collaborators. Stop 2: Chemical Crows From January 2008, Chemical Crows is Iris Van Herpen’s first major collection and crafted entirely by hand. This collection was inspired by van Herpen’s fascination with alchemy and a group of crows that lived around her studio. As alchemists tried to turn base metals into gold, so van Herpen has transformed gold-coloured umbrella ribs into whimsical fan-like shapes resembling birds.