The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

No. 85 February - March 2000 THE SEA CANOEIST NEWSLETTER

Chris Duff with adoring fans at Rapahoe Beach, prior to launching enroute to Westport.

Chris passing the editor's house at the 12 Mile, on 24 March 2000. The Journal of the Kiwi Association of Sea Kayakers (N.Z.) Inc. - KASK

1 No. 85 February - March 2000

KASK KASK BADGES SEA KAYAKING KASK, the Kiwi Association of Sea Canterbury paddler Rod Banks pro- Kayakers (N.Z.) Inc., a network of duced a badge of a paddler and sea NETWORK New Zealand sea kayakers, has the kayak from solid sterling silver, with objectives of: KASK NZ engraved. The badge can CONTACT 1. promoting and encouraging the be permanently or termporarily af- sport of sea kayaking fixed to hats T shirts, ties, evening ADDRESSES 2. promoting safety standards gowns or dress suits but not dry suits. 3. developing techniques & And the badge is appealing to the eye. Auckland Sea Kayak Network equipment Size is 23mm long by 11mm high. Vincent Maire 4. dealing with issues of coastal 7 Motuora Rd, Manly access and protection Price is $15 plus $1 P+P, and avail- Whangaparoa, 1463 5. organizing an annual sea kayak able from the KASK Secretary, Helen Ph: (09) 424 2293 forum Woodward. Fax: (09) 424 0385 6. publishing a bimonthly email: [email protected] newsletter. LRB2 - KASK webpage: nzkayak.co.nz The Sea Canoeist Newsletter is pub- HANDBOOK 2nd. Canterbury Sea Kayak Network lished bimonthly as the official news- Andy & Deirdre Sheppard letter of the Kiwi Association of Sea Ed. Ph: (03) 342 7929 Kayakers (N.Z.) Inc. For a copy of this mother of all sea Sea Kayak Operators Assoc. of NZ kayaking handbooks, contact KASK Bronwyn Duff, Admin. Officer Articles, trips reports, book reviews, Secretary Helen Woodward: PO Box 255 equipment reviews, new techniques, 82 Hutcheson St. Picton letter to the editor, and moments when Blenheim Ph: (03) 573 6505 the word 'Bugger!' was said singu- email: [email protected] Fax: (03) 573 8827 larly or often {referred to by some as COST: incidents} are sought to enliven the New members: gratis Bay of Plenty Sea Kayak Network pages of the newsletter. Existing members: $10 + $1 p&p Dusty Waddell, Ph: (07) 572 4419 Non-members: $18 + $1 p&p Send in a plain brown envelope, or via Jean Kirkham, Ph: (07) 552 5982 cybermail to: Make cheques out to KASK (NZ)Inc Wellington Sea Kayak Network Editor: P Caffyn, Trade enquiries also to Helen. RD 1, Runanga. Beverley Burnett Cellphone: (025) 249 4116 West Coast .N.Z. THE LRB2, or the Little Red Book email: [email protected] Ph/Fax: (03) 7311806 2nd. Edition, is a mammoth compila- Web site: http://home.clear.net.nz/ E Mail address: tion on all aspects of sea kayaking in pages/wellseak [email protected] New Zealand, by many of the most experienced paddlers in the Universe. Auckland Canoe Club KASK Subscriptions are: Following a brief introduction, the PO Box 3523, Auckland. $20.00 per annum & cheques handbook is divided into six sections: Newsletter Editor: Julia Thorn should be made out to: - Kayak, Paddle & Equipment Ph: 09 575 3099 K.A.S.K. (NZ) Inc. & sent to the -Techniques & Equipment KASK Secretary: - The Elements Ruahine Whitewater Club Helen Woodward, - Trips and Expeditions 71 Salisbury St., Ashhurst. 82 Hutcheson St. - Places to Go Ph: 06 326 8667 Blenheim - Resources Ph: (03) 578 5429. Fax: 06 326 8472 email: [email protected] Each section contains up to nine sepa- ROTORUA CONTACT rate chapters. The Resources section, Graeme Muir Correspondence to the Secretary: for example has chapters on: 36 Buchanan Pl, Rotorua Helen Woodward, - guide to managing a sea kayak Ph / Fax: 07 3477106 82 Hutcheson St. symposium email: [email protected] Blenheim - Paddling Literature Ph: (03) 578 5429. - Author profiles NEW PLYMOUTH CONTACT email: [email protected] - Guides and Rental Operators Mark Gardner - Network Addresses 153 Seaview Rd, - Sea Kayaks in NZ listing New Plymouth Ph/Fax: (06) 753 9881

2 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

INDEX EDITORIAL Marlborough Sounds. Chris antici- There was comment in the media some pates finishing before Easter and hopes to attend the KASK Forum at New EDITORIAL p. 3 time ago of the age of adventure hav- ing shuffled off the mortal coil. The Brighton, Christchurch. NZ TRIP REPORTS adventures are still proceeding but with little acknowledgement or cov- BUGGER FILE SOUTH ISLAND SOLO Compiler of 'Bugger!' file report, Chris Duff's Journey: erage by the media. Waikato farmer Clinton Waghorn has completed the Cathye Haddock has included a few Dunedin to Bluff p.4 learning incidents from the Welling- Riverton to Milford Sound. p.5 first stage of a remarkable solo Alaskan paddling mission. In 1999 he set off ton area. At the recent Auckland Coast- Milford to Hokitika p.9 busters, I heard related several 'Bug- Latest to Greymouth p.9 from Prince Rupert in northern Brit- ish Columbia, and paddled north ger!' moments, two of which resulted from the need to pee. Please take the New Year Paddle p.13 through South East Alaska to Skagway. Transporting the kayak time to pen any moments when the word 'Bugger!' or worse has been ut- SAFETY and equipment to the head of the Yu- kon River, he paddled downstream to tered and mail to Cathye at 1/18, Avon Wellington Network Leadership St., Island Bay, Wellington. & Safety Training Course complete the first stage at the river by Beverley Burnett p.10 mouth in the Bering Sea. And North American paddle Chris Duff is well KASK FORUM on his way to completing the second Planning is well advanced for the WEBSITES p.13 solo South Island circumnavigation. Easter 2000 KASK Forum at New Brighton, Christchurch. Paddlers need THE 'BUGGER!' FILE CHRIS DUFF to book their own accommodation at from Cathye Haddock p.14 Chris Duff has certainly experienced the South New Brighton Motor Camp. And registration is necessary for ca- OVERSEAS TRIP REPORTS his fair share of ups and downs during his South Island solo circumnaviga- tering. Please get in touch with: 'No Reason' The Roof of Scotland Peter Sullivan Expedtion (3rd. installment) tion. And this bloke writes from the by I. Wilson & S. Morley p.16 heart. His account of the stint around 7 Monowai Crescent Fiordland is riveting reading, and I’m Christchurch 9. Ph: (03) 3883 380 LETTERS TO THE EDITOR sure he has more than enough mate- rial for a sequel to ‘On Celtic Tides’. email: [email protected] Stolen Boat Register p.23 COASTBUSTERS 2000 IN THE PRESS The night that Chris’s arrival at Mil- Over the weekend 17-19 March, Rescues and trips p.23 ford featured at the tail end of the 6pm TVNZ One news, the late evening Coastbusters was held at Puriri Park, news featured breaking of a story that Orewa, on Auckland's north shore. Chris’s kayak had been smashed on a The ASKNET red team organized beach north of Milford with a helicop- superb weather for a pleasant change ter rescue. Next morning Chris rang from previous years, and I thoroughly early to enquire about having his boat enjoyed myself. Friday night's slide repaired or the possibility of borrow- sessions included the trip by David ing a boat. The full gory details plus Herrington and Max Grant around Chris’s adventures since Dunedin, Stewart Island, and the first viewing have been compiled off his website by of Donna Hammond and Ross Sandy Ferguson, with the most recent Hickey's trip around Stewart Island. update after Chris surfed into Rapahoe Beach north of Greymouth. Workshops filled next morning and early afternoon and a great swimming Re the website address, several pad- pool demonstration of paddling dlers have emailed with difficulty ac- strokes, rolls and rescues rounded off cessing the site. The original address the afternoon. No one fainted during was correct but unfortunately it has the Greenland slide show that evening, been changed to: which was followed by a great nosh. http://www.goals.com The caterers commented that although only 100 paddlers were seated, enough Once around Farewell Spit, and clear tucker had been consumed for 150! of the trauma of dealing with open West Coast surf beaches, Chris hopes On Sunday 81 paddlers took to the to spend a little time both at Abel water for a BBQ lunch on Motuora Tasman National Park and in the Island. A great weekend.

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eight to ten-footers. I made it all the and got a double scoop of boysenberry NEW ZEALAND way to St. Kilda’s Beach, which is on ice cream, then paddled out to the TRIP REPORTS the south end of Dunedin and the Nugget Light house. Beautiful arches terminus of the Otago Peninsula. I and a low thick swell out of the south- was very tired and did not really want east. The Nuggets mark the start of the SOUTH ISLAND SOLO to run the surf, but I had no choice. As Catlins, a very rugged and beautiful Chris’s Duff’s Journey from soon as I started to come in, I realised coast of massive sea cliffs and golden Dunedin to Bluff immediately that I timed the swells beaches. I camped that night at Canni- wrong. A huge boomer was closing in bal Beach. Later I asked some locals Compiled from Chris’s website by from behind at a fast clip. I spun the about its name. They said the beach Sandy (Alex) Ferguson boat around and managed to spring got the name from the human bones over the crests of the waves. that were exposed by the sea erosion. Jan 14: I am sending this from the It is doubtful that it was actually the library in Invercargill - the boat sits on At one point the boat was completely result of cannibalism that the Maoris the beach at Bluff 20 miles away - no airborne as it exited the seaward side are known to have practised. Internet connections in Bluff. There of the waves. As they say it here in has been so much that has happened New Zealand, “I sussed it up again The Catlins is an area that one could since I last emailed you from Dun- and had another go of it”. I turned spend a lifetime exploring and not see edin. I paddled out the harbour and around as quickly as I could and started everything. Unfortunately, I don’t spent a day at the albatross observa- in again. At first everything looked have enough time to explore every- tory, which is right at the headlands. It good, but then I heard the roar of thing. My schedule is dictated prima- is fantastic to watch the albatrosses another monster coming up behind rily by the weather forecasts, on the fly, and to learn a bit about their life me. There was nothing to do but to try basis of which I can decide when to cycle. Now when I see them out on the to run it out. The wave caught me and paddle and when to sit tight. The south- sea I know that they are either enroute immediately threw me over. I am not erlies that have been a bit of a problem back to the nests with food for the sure if I did a complete end-over-end since the first days are still with me. It chicks on Taiaroa Head, or indeed, or what really happened. All I know is is only when they weaken, or indeed they are heading off for a year to that after a seemingly very long time shift to the north quarter, that I can circumnavigate the Southern Ocean - of getting stuck in the world’s largest make any headway. My only hope is not to land again on firm ground until washing machine, I hit my roll and that these same winds will not shift to they return to their nest site. It is a rare was heading out to sea again. Then the north when I need them most on and special thing to see one of these another wave wiped me out, but my the West Coast. giants floating so effortlessly on the roll worked again and I eventually wind current above the waves with surfed on to the beach. I have since I am here in Bluff for a couple of days their 10-foot wingspans and an ability been doctoring a compressed eardrum of rest and to resupply for the next big to fly 500 kilometres in a day. from the pounding, but other than step of the way - into the Foveaux that, all is well. Strait. Then I’ll be heading for Puyse- I left Taiaroa Head on the ninth and gur Point, which is the biggest obsta- camped that evening on a little beach The next day was one of the finest I cle of the entire trip that I must over- just ten miles around the coast of the have ever had on the open sea. I have come. I can only attempt rounding the Otago Peninsula. I saw some Yellow been thinking of how to describe best headland if the winds and seas are Eyed Penguins coming out of the surf this type of exposed paddling. It is relatively calm. There are only a few as I was landing. They come ashore more than simply paddling a kayak on places where I might be able to land every evening and nest in the tussocks the sea - it is ocean kayaking at it’s before I get there and turning back is and dunes. I crept along the shore and very best and it’s greatest. I left St. not an attractive option. My plan is to photographed several pairs as they Kilda’s beach and headed off shore leave the Bluff area in the next couple ambled higher into the dunes - I can for the day. The forecast was for of days and head for Riverton for the only hope the photos come out as well northwesterlies at 15 to 20 knots. Five last food resupply and when the as they looked in the viewfinder. This hours into the day the seas were six to weather looks good, and I have a fair was a most memorable camp as there eight-footers and the boat was surfing weather report, I’ll make the attempt were sea lions just fifty yards from my the waves like an ocean going yacht. at Puysegur. camp and a penguin colony on the I thought of how Karen Thorndyke other end of the beach. My tracks of must have felt crossing the Great There is a very good weather station pushing and pulling the kayak up the Southern Ocean in her yacht Amelia. in Bluff that keeps the local fishermen beach were not that different from It is amazing to me, even after all informed of incoming weather. A lady those of the sea lions and the pen- these years of paddling, how well a by the name of Mary - who I have guins. kayak deals with big seas. It is some- been listening to every day on the thing I would love to see on film. VHF weather channel - will be my The next day there was a fair swell contact for the next 50 or so miles. I running - six-footers with occasional I came in at Kaka Point to resupply was told by a fellow in Bluff that,

4 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

“You’ve got to check in with Mary west. That is exactly what I need. SOUTH ISLAND SOLO and she’ll keep the boys looking after They have warned me that it is the Chris Duff’s progress to 22 ye”. After that, because of the height wind out of the Northwest that I have February 2000 of the mountains in Fiordland, radio to watch on this coast. Of course this communication is limited to contact- is a shore wind on the west coast and ing fishing boats I may see and getting one that apparently kicks up as rap- Compiled off the website by Sandy an update from them in terms of the idly as a southerly on the east coast. (Alex) Ferguson weather. Mary advised Chris to contact the Progress Report - Riverton I am roughly half way into the journey fishing boats in the area by VHF. “She to Milford Sound and feeling as if I am approaching the has given me names of the captains very best of the trip. I also feel like I and assured me that they will do eve- I left Riverton on Jan 25th. A SE have earned the right to 'attempt' Fiord- rything they can to help. It is all a very breeze - very rare - paddled a 40 mile land. This first 800 miles has been a closely knit community of seafarers day taking advantage of the wind and very good training ground for what out here - the conditions breed a tough the slight following sea. Made it al- lies ahead. The weather problems have lot of fishermen but also a need to most to Port Craig, but ran out of not been insurmountable, but have look out for one another and help as energy and landed at the mouth of the honed my skills and readied me for soon as there is a need. This is true Hump Burn - three foot surf - and what is just around the corner. I have worldwide and I am always encour- happy for it because anything bigger mixed feeling of excitement, caution aged by the assistance I get from the at that point would have been a strug- and eagerness to see what surely is “Pros” who are there working on the gle. one of the most beautiful coastlines in seas that I am simply attempting to the world. pass through. All the fishermen I have From the Hump Burn I pushed pretty met are captivated by the kayak - the hard for the mouth of the Waitutu Jan 20: Chris has left Bluff and he is apparent vulnerability of the boat on River - this coast is not a place for now on his way to attempt the most one hand and the obvious survivability leisurely exploring or poking around- difficult passage along the South Is- on the other. They shake their heads in lots of offshore reefs that break up to land coast, from Riverton to Preser- amazement and are quick to offer a mile out. I kind of threaded my way vation Inlet. There are only a couple whatever advice or assistance they through the reefs all day - keeping a of places before Puysegur Point where can. It seems they want to be a part of sharp lookout and avoiding the dark landing may be possible, and even the journey. areas ahead that marked the shallows. there, the surf could make it very Six to eight foot waves but clear blue difficult. The map suggests that the Chris will have limited opportunity skies that make a passage like this so west end of Te Waewae Bay, near for contacting us during his passage much easier. Very clear water - easy Port Craig, could be a potential land- around Fiordland. We are hoping that seeing the bottom at 20 feet. Got caught ing and camping site. Beyond that while he is in contact with Mary, by one reef break and got buried in the there are a couple of river deltas where somebody will Email us the latest wash - lost my glasses but stayed he might be able to take refuge: at the news. We have been lucky this way upright and very sharp eyed after that Wairaurahiri and the Waitutu Rivers. and want to thank all those who took - a bit of a wake up call. Made it to the Chris was told about an old, aban- their time to inform us about Chris’s mouth of the Waitutu River - a feeling doned schoolhouse, about 20 miles progress and sent us pictures. Barbara of having passed half way along the West of Riverton, where he was plan- Fisher wrote us: “Two friends and gauntlet to Puysegur. ning to hold up until the weather is myself were out visiting Riverton favourable for the big push to Puyse- Rocks today and we saw this guy Woke the next day to calm winds and gur. Chris will be able to stay in radio camping on the shore with a kayak blue sky again - couldn’t believe my contact with Mary at the Weather beside him. Alison thought he could luck. Headed off for Gates Harbour. Service office until he rounds Puyse- be the chap kayaking around NZ. that Had a visit by a Royal Albatross - a gur Point. That will be a big help, she had heard about while holidaying truly fantastic sight to have such a because Puysegur can be treacherous further North. He was. We were de- massive and graceful bird glide over in a Southwest gale. Once he passes lighted to talk with him and take some me at 30 feet!! Then some amazing the Point he will have no problem in photos which I am sending on to you. arches and some pretty technical pad- finding safe landings in Preservation He was feeling so happy with himself dling to get inside one of them at Inlet. after having this wonderful crossing Green Islets. All of these experiences around Foveaux Strait”. Those pic- are so packed with details that I will As I get closer to this point of depar- tures are terrific, thanks very much have to share later. ture for Fiordland, I am encouraged Barbara! by what the locals tell me - they have Just before pulling into Gates Har- had excellent weather for the past bour I came around Long Reef Point month, very few gales and a lot of and saw the wreck of the 'Duze' - a light winds out of the south and south thirty five foot fishing boat that got

5 No. 85 February - March 2000 caught by a wave and was thrown on terfall that winds its way through the Spent two days waiting for the winds the rocks in early December - all three bush to emerge in a thin delicious cool in a Department of Conservation hut fishermen survived but had to be res- stream, the thick thundering falls on Chalky Island. Winds on Puysegur cued by helicopter. Came into Gates twenty miles up Long Sound that cre- are 40 to 45 out of the north. I am stuck Harbour on Jan 27. A perfect natural ates its own winds, the evenings spent and resigned to not making the meet- harbour safe from everything but a at “The Lodge” in Preservation Inlet ing with my shore crew in Supper direct southerly blow. Large swells with Jeff the caretaker, listening to Cove. I am unable to contact Mary by breaking on the reefs to either side of Mary on Bluff Fishermen’s Radio radio to let them know that I am stuck the entrance but deep water in the checking in with all the crayfishing here. I am worried they will think the channel leading to the cove. A bit and tuna boats and hearing her tell the worst - yet there is nothing for me to do. unnerving to have three-metre swells boats to keep an eye out for a yellow exploding just yards away yet smooth kayak heading north. The afternoon weather forecast pre- running swells beneath the boat. dicts an eight hour lull in the norther- I spend the time writing in the journal, lies and then a 50 knot southerly com- That evening I got a weather report - waiting for the weather and watching ing through. I debate what to do... It is good winds predicted for the attempt the days slip by, aware that Feb 7th, risky to attempt Cape Providence with to get around Puysegur but only for the date Sam, Martha and Gay are due the swell running as it is. A five-hour the morning - high winds predicted by in at Supper Cove is fast approaching. paddle if all goes well... I pack, change late afternoon of the next day. I had The weather and winds are oblivious my mind, change it again and eventu- wild dreams of the Puysegur during of my need to keep moving. Only ally jump in the boat at 4:30 pm. and the night - it has weighed heavily on thirty or forty miles away and yet it head out. my mind for weeks. may as well be a thousand. Five and a half hours later - and a bit Left Gates Harbour by 8am on the Feb 3: Made it around the Gulches more of a story - I arrive in Dusky 27th. My first view of the point was into Chalky Sound - a short little pad- Sound as dark overtakes me. I am now almost surreal - couldn’t believe I was dle, but the sea looked as though it at least within striking distance of almost there and felt as if the point could swallow a hundred foot ship Supper Cove and the emotional boost, was just teasing me with this fine and never miss a beat in its relentless as well as the food that I need for the weather and at the last minute would hammering of the headland. A bril- next leg of the journey. turn into the terror that it is so well liant rounding of the exposed head- known for and send me racing for land beneath dark black skies but a Feb 6: Hiding from torrential rain and cover. But I was absolutely elated and perfect rainbow out to sea - ten and 50 knot winds in Dusky Sound I pad- near wild with joy as I approached the twelve foot swells some breaking over dle the last ten miles to Supper Cove. lighthouse! Clear skies, the first hint the cockpit in the confused waters of I am overwhelmed by the thought of of a northerly, and a fair sized 2 metre the rebounding waves off the rocks. A meeting my friends - I can not believe swell rolling against the base of the place and time where it is so essential I am here! This is the place that has headland. Numerous shearwaters were to stay focused on the immediate only been a name and a point on the circling and diving for fish around the threats and not get blown away men- map, that Sam, Martha, Gay and I had boat and suddenly an albatross on ten tally by the huge scale of everything. looked at months earlier and said we foot wings, gliding in from open wa- It’s one stroke at a time - four feet of would meet at. ter as only an albatross can - silent, measured pulling at a time - catch a elegant and so graceful in its steep surfing ride for twenty feet of speed I paddle up to the landing jump out banked turns. A perfect day for round- then back to the slow and deliberate and race through the bush to the hut ing the point. grind of moving the boat past the calling out “Hello, Hello.” No re- booming of swell on rock - maintain- sponse... but then the whine and Within three hours of landing at the ing the inner focus while all around thumping of a helicopter - it took old supply shed for the lighthouse and there is seeming chaos. several seconds to realise it must be walking up to the lighthouse - the The Crew! I race back to the boat, winds had built to 25 knots out of the In fact, there is nothing chaotic about jump in and round the point just as the north. Once again the forecast had been it at all - it is simply the Tasman Sea chopper screams in over the water. right on. I didn’t know it at the time but rolling in and meeting the Great South- the winds would blow from the north ern Ocean on the shores of New Zea- A tearful joyous meeting beneath the for the better part of a week - winds that land. It is a perfect harmony of nature whirr of the rotor blades. It is all went from 25 to 30 to 45 knots! at its wildest that I am fortunate to happening too rapidly and my mind witness momentarily. A moment that can not process everything I am feel- It is nearly impossible to share every- leaves one so humbled by the raw, ing. For the next twelve hours I am thing that happens on a journey such savage and beautiful power that no treated to letters, gifts from friends, as this - all the little things that make man can rein in and control. I am a news of home, a special care package up the day of a traveller - the penguin visitor just as any boat that ventures from the crew at Safeway, cinnamon sightings, the small trickles of a wa- around these headlands. rolls from Bonney’s Bakery and the

6 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

wonderful love of my friends. I hike - just to make sure the river hadn’t this - what reserves we use and how out a mile with Sam, Martha and Gay risen and washed it away. we deal with that which we have a and leave them in the shadow of tree vague plan for but hope we never have ferns and amid the dripping rain for- Feb 14: Leaving Dagg under the to endure. It is a study in perseverance est. We all have a journey to make. watchful eye of the 'Oraki' crew as and something deeper. Another time escort. Big swell and an offshore wind and another place I will hopefully Feb 8: Heading down Dusky Sound of 25 knots - not comfortable with it have the time to write of this. for Acheron Passage - a group of but once under the relative protection bottlenose dolphins approach echo of the mountains, I thought I was safe. Feb 15: Into Doubtful Sound and Deep locating beneath me - whistles and Only 6 miles to Doubtful - 1.5 hours if Cove, Halls Arm, Crooked Arm. Met squeaks that come through the boat all goes well. I radio the 'Oraki' and up again with 'Breaksea Girl' - The and seem to enter my body. Dolphins tell them I’m OK. They want to see skipper will pass word to Mary that I suddenly leaping in the air around me, me through to Doubtful but I know am on schedule for my food drop in surfacing in blasts of curiosity and they have pots to set and miles of a Milford Sound with Kevin Beaumont playfulness, racing with me as I cut in southern route awaiting them. We part from 'Kiwi Reel and Rifle' - the same the waves. Then just as suddenly they with good wishes for safe passages. fellow who helped Sam, Martha and are gone and I am left wondering as I Gay to get into Supper Cove. Kevin have so many times in the past “Did Two hours later I approach Doubtful has arranged with a cameraman from that really happen?” Sound - the Hares Ears just a mile the national TV station to film me in ahead. The water a half mile off the Milford. Waterfalls cascading in streams of tea bow suddenly takes on a misty ap- coloured water. Little rivulets and pearance and is covered in whitecaps Feb 17: Up Thompson Sound, past crashing torrents. Trickles I fill my - an offshore wind that looks forebod- Nancy Sound, Charles, Caswell, and water bottle from and deafening falls ing. I head closer to shore but careful on to George, Two Thumb Bay, Suth- that I can only stare at in wonder. of the 3 metre swell. The wind hits erland Sound, Poison Bay and even- Visibility down to less than a quarter with a vengeance that is hard not to tually Milford Sound. Half way into mile in rain and low cloud. I am lost take personally - it is driving me off Milford - I am two days early due to and happy in a mystical world of shore - roaring out of the mountains at excellent southerly winds that surf me hidden mountains rising from the sea. 35 knots and gusts that are higher but along at 5 knots amid ten footers. pointless and dispiriting to even think Three days of the finest weather I Feb 9: Into Breaksea Sound for the of placing a figure on.... I am spitting have had on the entire trip. Winds night. seawater and trying to see where I am straight on the stern - racing up from going. Muscles scream with the burn behind and seemingly intent on bury- Feb 10: Heading for Dagg Sound - of over exertion, thoughts of getting ing the boat in massive blue rolls of overtaken by the Breaksea Girl - a blown out to sea are weighed against southerly energy. The boat - sweet double masted schooner whose cap- the possibility of attempting a landing and nimble craft that she is - rises to tain has heard of my trip through on a small boulder beach in the three the roll - bow pointing to the trough Mary at Bluff Fishermen’s Radio. He metre swells. I need to rest but a rest ahead and stern pointing to the clear comes alongside and leans over the means certain loss of painfully slow skies astern, it is open ocean paddling railing with an egg and sausage sand- progress towards the shore a quarter as wild and free as anything earth wich wrapped in a paper napkin. The of mile away. I can reach the radio and bound. There is nothing as powerful sun shines and the swells lift us both..... send a Mayday if I am blown out. But or as humbling. I am a tiny 21-inch it is the brotherhood of the sea where will anyone hear it??? wide yellow sliver of fibreglass rac- the size of the vessel does not matter. ing along on the swells. Occasionally It is the respect we all have for the sea The crayfishing fleet is way up north a swell breaks and washes over the that unites us. - the season mostly over with and only stern, cockpit and bow. The boat slows the stray cod boat still out. Reception with the weight, sheds it with its se- Feb 11 -14: Weather bound in Dagg is dependent on line of sight - in the cure buoyancy and accelerates on the Sound. I meet David and Ray Hay- troughs I would not stand a chance of face of the next swell. Shearwaters ward aboard the 40-foot 'Oraki' - cod reaching anyone. The radio option is tear past on fighter like wings and the fishermen also seeking refuge from dismissed and every ounce of energy mountains of Fiordland National Park the winds that have hit 70 knots in is used to stay focused on the crashing rise thousands of feet a mile to star- Bluff. They talked with a fisherman surf on the rocks. An hour later I am board. “Race on winds, race on and off Doubtful - 6 metre swells and 45 ashore - another story in terms of the carry this little boat north!” knots of wind. Spent three nights landing... I was thankful to be safe, in aboard the 'Oraki' - fantastic Kiwi one piece, exhausted but untouched Feb 19th: I am in Milford where there hospitality - David and Ray couldn’t by the rocks. is a backpacker's inn and a computer! do enough for me - plenty of good I am here for a food resupply from food, a dry bunk and several trips There is so much to explore in terms Kevin Beaumont in Te Anau, and back to my camp that I had left set up of how one survives something like several days of rest while the winds go

7 No. 85 February - March 2000 round to the North and basically stall cially Al Zob who is making all this e- The boat was wrecked, but none of his all plans of paddling till they come mail happen for me. All of you folks gear was lost! He could not continue round again to the south - just as well are the infrastructure that keeps the without major repair on his boat. He as I know I need a break. Now an paddles turning and I owe you all a was on an isolated wilderness beach attempt to bring you up to date. great debt. I hope to leave Milford from which there was no way out. The tomorrow if the weather permits. Next only option left to him was to try Feb 19: Arrived in Milford. The film update will probably be from Hoki- contacting nearby ships on his VHF crew find me surfing on three foot tika - but I’m not really sure. All the radio. He rigged up a “wind sock, waves and 25 knots of wind. I am very best to everyone. Cheers until signalling pole” with some salvaged staring at the 5,000-foot peaks soar- the next time. crayfishing rope off a pot that had ing over head - the boat wildly racing been torn off the bottom. He hoisted out of control while I am looking Feb 22nd: I left Milford on the 22 Feb. his yellow paddle jacket and red stuff straight up. This is more than I had I paddled 8 miles out Milford Sound bag twenty feet up and hoped a fishing imagined it to be - it is 6.00 pm., the and another ten or so miles north. The boat would see it. sightseeing boats and planes have all seas were fairly mild in the morning left for the day and there is only one but by mid day the winds had built to It took about 24 hours to get word out boat two miles behind me to worry 20 knots out of the south with a large via the radio that I needed helicopter about. I am lost for a while in the southerly swell. Conditions were de- evacuation. None of the fishing boats beauty and the awe of having arrived teriorating fairly rapidly so I opted to that went by apparently had their ra- under such clear skies and strong tail attempt a surf landing on a steep gravel/ dios on - very frustrating. Tried to winds. sand beach. raise the Maritime Rescue centre on Channel 16 - no luck. Had plenty of Dave, Jim and Nick, the film crew, I entered the surf zone and got rolled food and water and shelter so there shout above the noise of the wind and by a ten footer and turned 180 degrees wasn’t any worry really. surf and ask if I am the man kayaking while upside down. When I hit my roll around NZ. I yell back “Yes” and they I was facing out to sea. I turned the I finally spotted a cruise ship 7 or 8 come over for proper introductions - boat toward the beach and got hit by miles out and heading north. Raised its really rather absurd - this meeting another large breaker and rolled again. her on the radio and explained my in the midst of near gale force winds No problems executing my rolls - the situation to her. While talking to her and then the realisation that they want boat responding quickly. I surfed in on the radio, Fiordland Maritime Ra- to film my arrival. Dave, the camera- another 20 yards - manoeuvring dio interrupted and I switched to fill- man, has a camera on board and com- through some very confused surf and ing them in on the situation. Why they mences to get some good footage of finally putting the bow on the sand. So could not receive my earlier message the boat surfing. Who knows how it far nothing out of the ordinary - no isn’t clear, but it really doesn’t mat- will turn out but it was really rather injuries and no lost gear - everything ter... In a situation like this it is amaz- fun doing the shot - the guys turned nice and tight. ing how analytical and how efficient out to be really funny and typical one learns to be with regards to Kiwis. Dave is a physical therapist, I jumped out of the boat and tried to prioritizing options and immediately diver, carpenter, cameraman, big game grab the bow but had to jump clear of disregarding anything that isn’t mov- hunter and a computer whiz - a mind the boat as a big dumping wave hit it ing one directly towards the essential that races faster than any storm wind really hard. Made several attempts to goal - how do I get off this beach?” and one that changes course as unpre- grab the boat but each time I got near dictably. it another wave would slam into it and Fiordland arranged for a helicopter send it flying. The best thing to do in out of Milford to come and get me. So there it is in a condensed nutshell - this scenario is to get the heck out of My last transmission with them was the last three weeks of this fantastic the way!! If you get hit by the boat you that they were working on it and that journey that I am so blessed to be a can be a goner. I was to monitor Channel 16 and they part of. What is so very emotionally would get back to me. There was moving for me is the extent to which Finally got a hold of the bow and nothing to do but wait and see what everyone is so unselfishly throwing dragged it out of the surf. No room to was to happen. Lots of sandflies to their efforts into helping me. Sam, go into all the details but I was shocked keep me company and no shelter in Martha, Gay, Kevin, the fishermen, to see the damage - to say the very the tent because I could not get recep- Mary,.... This trip would be impossi- least. The boat was nearly broken in tion where the tent was set up. I took ble without all of the help. And that is half under the seat, and again up near to walking in big circles on the beach to say nothing of the tremendous sup- the foot braces. The seam where the reading “The Power of One” in one port I am getting from every one back hull and the deck join was split half hand and swatting the flies with the home - my family spread out from NY the length of the boat and the forward other. Very good book. One I would to MN to NC. My special friends in bulkhead was split away from the recommend for those stranded on a Port Angeles - Mahde, the folks at deck.” remote beach with a busted up kayak.” Safeway, Bonney’s Bakery and espe-

8 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

No forewarning of the arrival of the March 19: I just landed in Hokitika from there on the surf will be only a chopper - suddenly out from behind a and am very happy to have my feet on memory. bush covered headland it appears. The the ground and the promise of some- The repairs to the boat have stood the pilot set the machine down on the thing other than pasta to eat. test of many surf landings and sand and in twenty minutes, while launchings. At least that is one thing I they lashed the boat to the struts, I The past week has been some of the am not concerned with anymore. dismantled the camp and stuffed eve- best weather in the entire trip - calm rything in bags. No use trying to think winds and clear skies. No safe land- I’ve seen two sharks in the last couple about anything but what has to be ings since Jackson Bay though - eve- of days - both relatively small - one done. rything is exposed to the surf and around 5 feet and the other around 3. there has been plenty of that! There Amazing what you see when the sea is Chris Duff’s website: http:// seems to be a sand bar that runs paral- calm - large swells but no local wind www.goals.com lel with the beach 100 yards out - this waves. Time to get some real food. bar breaks most of the power of the swell and if I can time it right I can ride the back of the broken wave over the LATEST UPDATE bar and then only have to deal with the from the editor four or five footers on the inside. The waves have been clean and smooth, Chris spent a wet and windy day in which makes the surf so much easier. Hokitika, before breaking out through a goodly sized surf on 22 March. I Once I go out in the morning, I’m out arrived late at the Greymouth Bar, but SOUTH ISLAND for the day - lots of 25-30 miles days spotted Chris half a mile out beyond and a couple of 40’s. I don’t like the the breakers. Intermittent huge rollers SOLO surf - too much risk - so I’ll stay out as were breaking through the two stone long as possible and as long as the breakwaters, and Chris had called up Compiled off the website by: Alex the harbour master on his VHF radio. Ferguson weather and sea conditions allow. In- evitably, I get knocked over at some Unaware of his experience, the har- Chris Duff bour master advised Chris not to at- Milford to Hokitika. point of the day - either first thing just getting out to deep water, or at the end tempt the bar. of the day when I’m heading in for the night. The roll over count is up to 11. An awesome surf on Cobden beach March 4: In another hour I will be ruled out a landing so Chris paddled heading back into Milford Sound. If I have my sights set on Greymouth four miles to round Point Elizabeth, the winds are calm I should be on the next - mail and a rest day with Paul where we spotted him again with bin- water by noon and paddling out to Caffyn who has done more long dis- oculars. He was over a mile out when open water. It feels like a long time tance paddling than anyone in the he began using stop start tactics to since I’ve been in the boat and I’m world. He has offered me a place to wend his way in through a mile of very anxious to get going again. My stay for a few days and if the weather three metre high intermittent break- first stop will hopefully be Martin’s is “Crook” as they say here, then I’ll ers. Broaching through the shore Bay - about twenty five miles from the take him up on the offer. break, his grin of relief, at spotting us dock in Milford. After that, it’s an- waiting on the beach and having sur- other fifty or so miles to Jackson Bay. Just in terms of camp stops here is a vived the run unscathed, was from ear I’ve trimmed as much weight from rough scope of where I’ve been for the to ear. the gear as possible - getting rid of past week. Jackson Bay on the 14 of half the cook set, some clothing, an March, Haast on the 15, Bruce Bay on At the 12 Mile we added a fibreglass extra water bottle etc. This next four the 16 (a 40 mile day), Galway Beach rubbing strake to the keel line of his hundred miles could be a bit dodgy in on the 17, five miles north of Abut boat and waited a day for the swell to terms of surf, and I need the psycho- Head on the 18, and about ten miles ease. Chris launched at 7.30am on 24 logical as well as the physical edge of south of Hokitika on the 19th. Had to sit March through a 1.5m surf enroute knowing that I am travelling as light for a day due to low visibility and big for Westport. as possible. I don’t know where the surf - and here I am today at Hokitika. next email stop will be - it could be as far north as Hokitika, in which case it Big surf again today so I may just may be as long as three weeks before hang out for a day and see if it goes I can get a message to you. The weather down - the risk is that the winds may is definitely changing and the fall kick up - this is the constant gamble winds may hold me up for a while, but and also what is so wearing on me I will be in contact as soon as possible. after almost four months. I am very Hope you are all well. focused on getting to Farewell Spit -

9 No. 85 February - March 2000

we approached him to develop the emergency stand-by vehicle enabled course. the participants and instructor to fo- WELLINGTON cus their energies completely on their Hillary Commission funding was criti- activity, and provided a psychologi- REGIONAL SEA cal. WRSKN expects to have only cal comfort that let everyone push a KAYAK NET- $100 surplus this year, and voted at little bit harder for a little bit longer. the midwinter meeting to use it to WORK LEAD- fund safety training. Unfortunately Hot soup and drinks were absolutely $100 does not cover even one-quarter essential. Hypothermia is always a ERSHIP & of the cost of one course, let alone the concern in sea kayaking, particularly two we hope to run this year. We during cold windy weather, and where SAFETY therefore submitted a regional pro- the learning situation calls for people posal for Hillary Commission sports to fall in the water. TRAINING funding, requesting proportional funds COURSE from each council. The funding pro- A support vehicle is essential for trans- posal was written by Cathye Had- porting food to locations where pad- Sponsored: by the W.R.S.K.N. No- dock, Diane Morgan and Beverley dlers were stopping for breaks, and vember 19th, 20th, 21st, 1999. Burnett and submitted to Wellington, critical in case of emergency, carry- Funded: by Hillary Commission Porirua and Hutt City Councils (Up- ing blankets and a first aid kit. The grants from Porirua and Welling- per Hutt and Kapiti do not have a coordinator and instructor also car- ton City Councils. second funding round this year). All ried a cellphone for emergency com- three councils granted us funds. munication. The coordinator took Instructor: Grant Rochfort, KASK, our national body, has also notes during the theory and debrief- Rochfort Water Sports granted us $200 towards the training ing sessions, which let instructor and Coordinator: Cathye Haddock courses, and Tranz Rail has spon- participants focus on the issues. (preliminary setup) Beverley sored us for the $300 we needed to Burnett (training weekend) meet budget for the second course. CURRICULUM Participants: Jennifer Roberts, Noel Our budget covers instructor’s fee, Friday night - theory. Weather, Group Winsloe, David Fisher, Diane food, petrol costs for the support vehi- and self rescues, tide and current, re- Morgan, Paul Lenihan, Conrad cle and a small amount for course sponse to incidents, strategies for cop- Edwards materials. We would have liked to ing with paddlers who are ill, tired, Location: Porirua Harbour, provide safety flares and radio batter- disabled. Introduction of John Heron Pauatahanui Inlet, Titahi Bay ies for the first course but didn’t have peer feedback system. the money. BACKGROUND Saturday 9am - 5pm. Discussion of For this pilot safety course, the par- We would like to express our appre- weather. Rescue training - self rescue, ticipants were approached and asked ciation to the Harbour Master, Cap- t-rescue and all-in rescue. Group man- to take part. Two were already mem- tain M. Pryce, for his endorsement, agement on the water. Each paddler bers of the safety committee, the oth- and also the support of his staff. takes a turn to brief the others and lead ers were known to be experienced a leg of the afternoon trip. Partici- paddlers and had previously led or Each participant provided their own pants gained confidence in their lead- supported Network paddles. The boat, safety equipment and transpor- ership skills. Participants also learned course was limited to six people due tation, and volunteered a full week- the importance of briefing people well to safety considerations, and to max- end of personal time. The network and what can go wrong if you don’t. imise learning opportunities. provided a support coordinator and Each leg followed by a peer feedback vehicle, hot lunch and afternoon tea. session. We had to fit the course into a week- Conrad volunteered the use of his end, due to budget and time con- boatshed in Porirua Harbour as a meet- Sunday am - pm. Scenario training on straints. The course was mentally and ing place. the water. Each paddler takes a turn to physically demanding on the partici- lead a leg of the trip. One of the other pants. The weather provided a chal- The role of the support coordinator paddlers on each leg is secretly briefed lenging environment due to a south- turned out to be more crucial than by the instructor to have a problem, erly front bringing frequent showers, originally thought. Although all the which the leader must identify, then and on Sunday, strong winds gusting paddlers enjoyed the weekend, it resolve. Each scenario followed by a over 30 knots. wasn’t a pleasure paddle. After one peer feedback session. evening of theory, they spent five The instructor, Grant Rochfort, a pro- hours a day for two days on the water SCENARIOS fessional kayaking instructor and being pushed, stressed and made to No. 1 - One paddler left their hatch guide, is a founding network member, think. Having a support coordinator cover off and their boat flooded in the and his outstanding teaching abilities to handle organization, catering and rough sea. The paddler concerned were already well known to us when

10 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

had a hard time convincing the leader of hypothermia in the cold condi- first, then congratulations round. that their boat was flooded. Once this tions. This scenario again pointed out Weather forecasting was accomplished, paddlers rafted up paddlers’ inability to manoeuvre in Understand the limitations of forecast on each side of the boat so that one wind and waves, or in close quarters. on radio, TV or newspaper. The fore- person could pump the hatch dry and cast is old by the time it is written. The replace the cover. The other paddlers COURSE NOTES forecast is regional, not for a specific drew ahead and did not come back to Friday Night: 1-1/2 hour instructional local area. It is only one scenario of assist; however they waited till the video covering paddling basics, res- what might happen, and is not a ma- others caught up. cues, support strokes, rolling. Towing rine forecast as such. You need to basics - what consists of a good tow- understand your local microclimate No. 2 - One paddler could not paddle line. When, why and how to tow. and allow for the effect of local ter- downwind, broached, and lost confi- Navigation - piloting, or the tech- rain, tides, Cook Strait tidal stream. dence badly. The leader stayed with nique of matching the landmarks you the paddler and coached that person see around you to the chart. Trip plans Tide, wind and fetch affect the size of along. Coaching a nervous paddler is - mark all crossings and the distance the waves. Tide plus wind has a dif- a good solution and builds confidence. and bearing of each leg. Be predict- ferent effect than tide versus wind. able crossing shipping lanes. When Tide can affect weather systems. The No. 3 - The leader set up a ferry glide. doing a channel crossing, stay on the friction of water flow can trigger a One paddler could not cope with the bearing, get it done and rest later. wind change. A tide can turn earlier ferry glide and ended up pointing the Tides - understanding tidal tables. Un- with a windblown surface current. wrong way. The leader used his boat to derstand the difference between tides When the wind stops, the water wants push the other paddler’s nose around and currents. Understand the influence to go back where it came from even if and then stayed downwind of the pad- of wind on tides and currents. Check the tide is not quite due to turn. If there dler to stop their boat drifting. All the tides before setting camp. has been a steady wind for several days paddlers managed to run aground (not the tide wont match the tide tables. planned). Towropes would have been Why every trip needs a leader - no useful. matter how democratic the group, Further reading: someone needs to act as a coordina- ‘Weather-wise Boating: Forecasting No. 4 - One paddler became unstable tor, and to make decisions when things for New Zealand’s Coastal Waters’, and unconfident in their boat and went go wrong and response time is criti- Geoff Sivess (Reed Books, 1991) downwind to the open sea. The leader cal. A designated leader can cope ‘A Practical Guide to Weather Fore- had no hope of catching this paddler with the dissension between group casting in New Zealand’, Alex A. and delegated the best paddler in the members. The leader need not be the Neale (NIWA, 1993) group to go fetch the lost paddler and strongest or most skilful member of ‘Nigel Foster’s Sea Kayaking’, Nigel tow them back. The group behaved the group, but should be able to con- Foster (Fernhurst, 1997) very well, answered to voice com- fidently cope with group members mands and whistle, and stayed to- who are tired, anxious, disabled or ill. CHANNEL CROSSINGS gether. Vast experience and confidence can Get it done. Whether crossing a ship- be a disadvantage to a group leader ping lane (Marlborough Sounds, Wel- No. 5 - One paddler became very sea- who may think that because they are lington Harbour), or a bay with strong sick but unfortunately the group did not coping with the conditions, everyone winds, map out the quickest route, notice this. Once the leader noticed the else in the group can cope also. provide transits and go for it. (See situation, the paddler was given op- ferry glide.) A channel crossing is no tions including being towed. (Is it a Discussion of the risk management place to raft up and decide what to do good practice to ask them to make a form/system. next. The leader must brief the other decision when unwell, or should you The three factors of risk are people, paddlers before the channel crossing make the decision for them?) Two environment and equipment. People and specify a safe place to raft up and paddlers then became very tired and factors include differing skill and fit- regroup after the channel crossing. each was towed separately. ness levels, environment includes The leader must be able to point out tides, current, weather and naviga- any hazards the group may encounter No. 6 - Three people fell out at the tion, equipment includes boats, pad- (shipping traffic, winds, currents, same time. Two helped each other dles, towing gear, safety equipment. tides, etc.) Call up the local maritime with an all-in rescue. One lost their Do an assessment of all variables on station to advise them of your move- paddle and then death-rolled (fell back trip to come up with the risk factor. ments and ask shipping to keep a in) after getting back in the boat. Two lookout. Use a cellphone if a VHF paddlers assisted this person with a Discussion of the John Heron Peer radio is not available. rescue. This scenario had the poten- Feedback system. tial to be dangerous. One paddler was Non-threatening, constructive feed- GROUP MANAGEMENT in the water for eight minutes and back on a group member by other The group leader should have empa- despite wearing a wetsuit, was at risk group members. Improvements round thy for the inexperienced. If you push

11 No. 85 February - March 2000 someone beyond his or her limits you flat webbing for the sling so that it dlers more experienced than I. I use up their resources and they have does not damage the spray skirt. learned over the weekend that leader- nothing left to get back to shore. If you ship is not about having the best pad- cam keep them going, they are OK. If When offering a tow to a paddler, the dling skills. someone is complaining, they are tower needs to keep the potential towee stressed. Leadership is not so much paddling forward. Anyone who is not The scenarios were realistic. I have technical as mental. The group leader paddling is going backwards and has been on paddles where people have has to consciously keep thinking about to make up the distance again. left the group, been seasick, lost their conditions, building up a mental pic- hatch cover. ture of conditions and potential out- Further reading : ‘Derek C. Hutchin- comes, and keeping it in mind. son’s Guide to Sea Kayaking’, Derek I would have liked more supportive Hutchinson (Globe Pequot Press, 1985) feedback on the water. I wanted my The basis of group management across efforts to be acknowledged at the time. a body of water is the ferry glide RESCUE SKILLS technique. Get the paddler first, not the boat. Part We felt very supported by the instruc- of leadership during rescues is under- tor. We felt quite safe going out in Even experienced paddlers may not standing how to treat the person in the difficult weather and dealing with have sweep or support strokes to han- water. It is important to keep talking to these scenarios. dle wind gusts. the person and telling them what to do. During scenarios, people who aren’t When travelling downwind, get the If hypothermia is a risk, get the person involved or leading can’t necessarily group directly above the target. The on the beach as fast as possible and see what the problem is and learn leader should be at the front of the deal with it. from it. We need to figure out a way group because the wind will blow any- round this. one in trouble down to the leader. It is The Network should practice rescue easier to paddle directly downwind, skills constantly. You can get some- I would have liked to have seen a and the group can raft up and drift. one out of the water faster if they continual discussion over the week- understand how to be rescued. Prac- end of the weather conditions, changes Further reading: ‘Sea Canoeing’, tice assisted rescues, all-in rescues in weather conditions and how they Derek Hutchinson (A&C Black, 1984) and self-rescues. differed from the forecast, and possi- ble reasons for this. TOWING COMMENTS FROM Towing can help someone else con- INSTRUCTOR The format was good, and the instruc- trol his or her boat in difficult condi- Network members generally are lack- tor set an example of leadership. I tions, can assist a seasick or unstable ing in manoeuvring, towing and rescue liked the way the program was ad- paddler. Towing downwind is the skills. Even if the Network provides justed to suit the weather. most difficult scenario, since the towed further pool nights and other opportu- paddler may overrun or run into the nities to practice skills, everyone needs The weather conditions perversely lead boat. Paddlers can manage speed to make a personal effort to improve added an element of reality. While and stability by towing in rough these skills for their own safe paddling. unpleasant, this created an edge from weather. It stabilises the tower as well which I benefited. as the towee. The network needs to talk about tow- ing, and to practice towing. Everyone I liked the way we all had a turn and A towline should be at least a boat- needs to carry a towline. Everyone were pushed without feeling unsafe. and-a-half length. The towline needs going on paddles should have rescue to be set up for quick snap-on, and for skills and practice them. During the COMMENTS FROM quick release. The beginning of the scenarios on Sunday, one paddler was COORDINATOR rope should have strong shock cord in the water for at least eight minutes, We can’t express our appreciation attached. To keep the rope tangle- which is far too long. Network mem- enough to the Hillary Commission free, it is a good idea to 'knit' it and bers should practice manoeuvring in and our city councils for providing the keep it in a stuff bag, with a float at the rough water, and develop support funding to make this course possible. end to stop it coming out of the bag. strokes. Very few of us have the nec- We also express our appreciation to Use fittings designed for yachts. Un- essary sweep/support/draw strokes Tranz Rail, who sponsored us for the like climbing carabiners, yachting fit- and railing skills for quick manoeu- last $300 needed to make up the funds tings don’t corrode in the salt. A use- vring in a critical situation. for the second course. ful addition to a towline is a sling to fit around the cockpit, so that the boat COMMENTS FROM As far as I am aware, this course is the carries the strain rather than the torso PARTICIPANTS first of its kind amongst sea-kayaking of the tower. The sling is connected to It was very intimidating at first to organisations in New Zealand. We the towrope with a quick-release. Use assert myself as a leader amongst pad- did really well, but didn’t get every-

12 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

thing quite right. Our experience dur- were hundreds of other craft in the ing this course will help us provide a NZ TRIP Bay by this time and the Waka was much better course next time round. making its circuit. It finally landed REPORT back at the jetty. We paddled towards We had to quickly revise the food the beach as thousands of people per- budget. I didn’t expect 7 people to eat formed the specially created welcome so much. This was not a problem; NEW YEAR PADDLE Haka. What a sight. After the rather, an indication of how much From the Auckland Canoe beachside ceremony was finished we physical and mental energy was being Centre email newsletter. drifted back towards the Canoe Club. poured into the learning sessions, and A quick change into dry clothes and how much fuel the paddlers needed to we were ready for some sparkling undertake this kind of a weekend. Did you have a great start to the new wine, coffee, hot bacon sandwiches Millennium? A number of us who and sausages fresh from the BBQ. I would like to see the participants spent the night at Auckland Canoe What a way to start the year. We had prepare for the course by doing some Club at Okahu Bay did. We all arrived set the video to record the event on reading beforehand. Our local librar- in drips & drabs during the evening. TV3 and we arrived home at 10am ies contain a selection of excellent Most of us turned up with Thermarests just as they started showing it. We books on sea kayaking theory and and sleeping bags, nibbles and liquid could recognise many of our friends technique, and also on weather fore- refreshments and all our kayaking and customers but never managed to casting. Reading 'Weather-Wise Boat- gear, determined to be on the water see ourselves.. We will probably show ing' by Geoff Sivess should be a re- before first light and to paddle into the video next time we have a slide quirement for a course like this. Okahu evening at the shop. However people Bay for the Welcoming Ceremony. who were there and want their own The effort everyone put in over the We watched the fireworks at mid- copy can drop a blank tape into the weekend, and how the effort was as night in a mixture of low mist and shop and we will copy it for them. It much mental as physical impressed drizzle and during the night the driz- is a memory which will never leave me. Discussions during breaks and zle continued. There was also quite a us. Our sincere thanks to Ian Calhaem feedback sessions gave an indication of bit of wind and we were all unsure who came up with the bright idea of how much thinking and learning was whether we would be able to paddle staying at the Canoe Club overnight. going on. I was also impressed by the across the harbour at 4am. One by one team-building resulting from the shared people drifted off to their sleeping experience and I give Grant credit for bags and by 2.30am there were just facilitating this. I saw the group be- about 4 of us still talking. At 3am the WEBSITES come more trusting of each other, and wind finally dropped. At 4am we were more reliant on each other. Besides all up and climbing into paddling gear. Skin Yak Replica Site improving leadership skills, the course There were thousands of people walk- From: Sandy (Alex) Ferguson provided a team bonding experience. ing along Tamaki Drive all getting The next time any one of these people into position to watch the dawn cer- An amazing collection of skin kayak leads a group, they are likely to have emony. We slid into our kayaks and in replicas, well-displayed on Harvey one of the other paddlers in the group a group headed towards Devonport. Golden’s Web site: understanding and supporting them in http://home.pacifier.com/~qayaq/ the leadership situation. There were some nice swells to glide replica_kayaks.htm over, but the wind had dropped com- Since the course, two paddlers have pletely. We had an escort of Police Weather & Trans Pacific Rower capsized in heavy weather on net- boats which was reassuring when a from Kerry Howe work paddles. One of our trainee lead- speeding launch approached us and weather site which covers Australia ers was on each trip, and the rescues split the group in two. We were all & NZ: were organized efficiently and quite happy when the Police boats http://grads.iges.org:80/pix/ quickly. Due to the training, what turned on their sirens and chased him. aus2.48hr.gif could have been a dangerous incident was merely unpleasant. At the time of Arriving at Devonport we met up with for tropical cyclone warnings, cover- the first incident, a dragon boat also craft of all shapes and sizes and pad- ing north western and south western capsized in the harbour, and it took at dlers with varying degrees of pad- Pacific: least 20 minutes and the Coast Guard dling skills. Dawn was gradually gopher://twister.sbs.ohio- to get the paddlers out of the water breaking at this time. We regrouped state.edu:70/0/severe/tropical/ (they were unable to rescue them- and headed back towards Okahu Bay. ABPW10.PGTW selves). Our paddlers were rescued It was magnificent watching the sun within minutes and without recourse rise. As we approached, a 20 gun for Trans Pacific Rower: to harbour rescue services. salute was fired and the smoke drifted http:/www/keepitblue.net/anglais/tr- down over us in the still air. There gb.html by Beverley Burnett

13 No. 85 February - March 2000

harbour as a more sheltered alterna- it, or bail out earlier, catching a taxi BUGGER FILE tive, but did not do this. We headed back to retrieve the cars. (The leader back the same way between the two & others had sufficient $’s and outcrops of the reef. The flat water at cellphones to do this.) by Cathye Haddock the Boating Club beach had changed back to the wavy sea by the reef and Criticism: Not having an alternative Two reports have been sent in to me progressed to potentially good surf- plan to cope with the realistically ex- for this Bugger File. Remember, if ing waves half way to the approach- pected conditions down wind of the you have had a mishap, or have been ing shore. Our least confident paddler reef. E.g., head left (east) for the road involved in a rescue or near miss Veronica was coping with the condi- end under the radio masts (174˚ situation, please write a report and tions well, running more or less 51.1’E) where we ended up. send it in to me at 1/18 Avon Street, straight down wind. But as we ap- Island Bay, Wellington. These reports proached the coast there was a need to Commendations : The rescuers stayed enable others to take a cheap lesson angle right with the wind on the side. calm, worked well as a team and got from what you learned so harshly. Thus she became less confident and the paddler back in their boat and shortly tipped out. Veronica became safely ashore. When submitting a report, you may separated from her boat so Dana, an- choose to have names or locations ticipating this rescue, got Veronica to NB. Veronica wanted to set off a flare, changed or left out if you wish. A hang onto her boat. Meanwhile, I but I decided against that as I consid- good format is to write a narrative of grabbed the empty boat and emptied it ered we had the situation under con- what happened, including any factors T rescue technique, which I had prac- trol. Even though we were slowly which contributed or led up to the tised only 2 weeks prior on a course. drifting in towards the rocks, we had incident. Include all decisions made Dana then delivered Veronica to her adequate ‘sea room’. I tried calling (or not made). Finally, attempt to iden- boat with Veronica trailing off the the coastguard on VHF channel 62 tify what could have been done differ- stern. Another member of the group, but was not triggering this repeater ently to prevent the incident occur- Neil, rafted on the outside and helped channel under the cliffs, and got no ring. Also, identify what went well stabilise the boats. Veronica said she response. while resolving the incident. couldn’t get back into her boat, which was to the leader’s surprise consider- Suggestions for improvements for The names and locations of the first ing he knew she had successfully prac- others: Encourage paddlers to be hon- incident have been changed or left out tised the techniques before, even if est and realistic about the conditions to provide anonymity for those in- only in a pool. After a few stern words they can handle, and speak up as early volved on their request. I wish to Veronica was getting back into her as possible, preferably on shore, be- thank author/s for submitting reports boat, aided by her sling and the two fore a committing crossing is started. so others may benefit from their expe- paddlers rafted alongside. (And for myself as a leader try and rience and analysis. realistically anticipate when condi- Neil made a good suggestion to head tions are likely to be beyond less ex- Cathye Haddock. back (NE) round the point towards a perienced paddlers). Kask Safety Officer harbour road end. Veronica was towed back by Neil (using Dana’s towrope) Commendations to other members of with Veronica also paddling herself. the group: They were all nearby when BUGGER ONE Now angling into the waves Veronica needed. The second least experienced Network paddle & Day trip was happier, also happier to be teth- paddler stayed nearby, concentrating Leader’s perspective ered by a towrope even though mak- on their appropriate self appointed ing steady progress herself. We all priority to stay upright as opposed to The day was scheduled as a surf car- made it back to the beach and road end assisting the rescue. nage day in a sheltered bay. Due to (under the radio masts) without fur- lack of surf, plans changed and it was ther mishaps, with myself rafted along- Further comments: Paddlers Dana and decided to paddle out of the bay and side Veronica for the final down wind Neil commented that they could see head right around the open coast, run into the beach. Veronica wobbling when viewed from through a reef to the Boating Club. behind prior to the capsize but I (the The predicted 15 knot northerly wind After getting Veronica into dry leader) did not as I was consciously was there as well as sloppy waves due clothes, two of our group hitched a paddling alongside Veronica encour- to the large fetch. There were 5 pad- ride back to the cars to collect them. aging her in the conditions. dlers. The group was happy with the paddle to the Boating Club. The two LEADER’S ANALYSIS Technical: Neil was paddling a ‘sit on least experienced, Veronica and a new Leader’s suggestions for improve- top’ without a rudder and commented guy Ted, said they found it challeng- ments: Change the return trip, to pad- that he found it hard to steer whilst ing but okay. After lunch on the beach dle into the more sheltered harbour towing without a rudder. We had no I briefly discussed paddling into the and on further if the group was up to better alternatives at the time. Dana

14 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

considered herself not strong enough zone where the waves are big and the Once more, Ed had difficulty prising to tow in these conditions and I didn’t crests start to break. The situation also my fingers away from his arm so he want to be 'tied up’ with towing as wasn’t helped by reflected waves could beach his boat. leader. bouncing back off the headland. I would have been more comfortable I was shivering with cold by the time NB. Neil had planned to leave our heading upwind a bit out to sea, and we reached the beach. Sophie knows group and to go snorkel diving at then zigzagging back into the next incipient hypothermia when she sees some point, but Dana realised that we bay. Ed was thinking that he didn’t it and marched me off to change into wished to retain him as an experi- want to go any further out to sea than the warm dry clothes I carried in a dry enced paddler in our group for the necessary in such bad weather, which bag. I also knew I was getting hypo- return trip. We agreed Neil would I also understand. By the time we thermic and was making notes in my paddle out to the reef and go snorkel- were halfway across the headland I’d head of what was going on. I stopped ling there while we had lunch, and become so unstable in the surf that it caring at about the same point I stopped catch us up as we paddled past on the was no surprise I capsized. feeling cold. 'I’m quite warm, now', I way back, which he did. tried to say, but what came out was I kept hold of my paddle, but when I 'num num num num'. It didn’t take VERONICA’S PERSPECTIVE surfaced the wind had already blown long for my body temperature to rise Veronica takes a swim my boat away from me and no matter once I was sitting in a warm car, but I The seas were a little higher than I how hard I swam I shouldn't keep up am sure if I hadn’t been rescued so expected when we set off, but nothing with it. I was not at all worried - we promptly and efficiently that I would I couldn't cope with. The closer we had done the rescue bit so many times have wound up in the hospital. were to the headland, the bigger the I knew the group would have me back waves got, so I was more comfortable in my boat without too much trouble. BUGGER 2 when we got further away from shore. Problem was, I didn't want to get in it. Wellington Network evening paddle I had been paddling with Edward and I thought that if I got back in the boat David Fisher 1-1-2000 Sophie before, so I knew I was in I’d be back in the same situation where really experienced company. I capsized and would probably do so Thursday 2 December, was sched- again, so what was the point. Might as uled for a sea kayak network meeting Ed and Sophie are both experienced well stay in the water and swim home at the Tugboat with a paddle before trip leaders and I trust them abso- the last 2km. Shows you how much hand. Three of us showed up around 6 lutely. We’ve done lots of rescue sce- your brain function shuts down in a pm., Chris, Nick and myself David narios together. I don’t know that I situation like this. Fisher. The day had dawned fine and have been out in a bigger swell, but I calm but by 6pm a 15 knot northerly have been out in worse weather than Ed was really good. He didn’t whack was making typical waves on the that. I tend to cope with rough seas me over the head with his paddle and Freyberg beach. Beverley had appar- better on my own, when I can choose leave me there. He organized Sophie ently planned to come paddling in the my own course, and zig-zag up and to go capture my boat and insisted that morning but decided against it on down wind rather than going in a I be rescued. Once the boat had been seeing the sea conditions earlier that straight line. brought alongside his and emptied, he evening. ordered me back in. I got halfway in Ed was a little bit worried for me and then got stuck because the top of We paddled across to the SE corner of about the trip back. Me too. I put all my buoyancy vest was jammed against the container terminal, hung around the loose items I usually carry in the the cockpit coaming. Once we figured there for a few minutes watching one cockpit into the hatch, something I that out I was back in the boat. I was of the tug boats poised off the stern of had never done before. The wind had out of confidence at that point, and a ship at the wharf. We then headed picked up and the water was quite was too cold for my brain to function into Lambton Harbour along the south rough out beyond the reef. I knew properly. I didn’t want to paddle side of the container terminal recla- what Ed was thinking - bay crossing, anywhere and Ed could not prise my mation, past dragon boat(s) training, set up a ferry glide and get it done. We fingers loose from his arm so that he around the wharves and so to the area paddled out to the reef and then an- could paddle. We were quite close to off Frank Kitts Park. Here, Welling- gled across the bay. However, the the rocks at that stage. Ed had to keep ton Sea Rescue were busy rescuing wind was so strong that it pushed on one eye on the situation and one eye the crew of Dragon boats that had my stern and kept heading my boat on the looming shore. I kept telling Ed tipped out, and Beacon Hill radio sta- out to sea, no matter how much left how I was feeling - cold, frightened, tion reported to some ship on the VHF rudder I used. We ended up angling can’t think, etc. I thought the informa- radio that their weather conditions downwind to get across the bay, and I tion might have been useful at the included northerly 15 to 30 knots. I found surfing on the big waves ex- time, but it might have been stating noticed one submerged dragon boat hilarating. Going across the headland the obvious. Ed set up Dick with a with about 3 people hanging on, close I felt we were a little too close to the towline and Dick towed me around off the rocks in front of Frank Kitts rocks, because we were in the surf the point and into a sheltered bay. Park. When I asked them how they

15 No. 85 February - March 2000 were, they asked if I could get a sea option was to wait for the wind to rescue vessel to assist. I was about to drop. We looked into Reiff Bay but do this when I noticed that Chris had OVERSEAS TRIP the surf made the stony beach too just fallen out of his kayak, so I called risky. We decided to head into the to Nick to let him know too. Having REPORTS small bay to the north which should at recently practised rescues on our net- least offer some shelter from the break- work leadership training weekend, 'NO REASON' ing seas. A tricky paddle around the including T rescues, this was all fa- The Roof of Britain Kayak small headland confirmed our deci- miliar stuff. I paddled over and sion to get ashore as quickly as possi- grabbed Chris’s boat and got him to Expedition ble before the storm really blew in. As hang onto the bow of mine. I asked by Ian Wilson & Sean we came into the bay I was disap- Nick to come alongside my clear side Morley pointed to find just a steep storm beach (starboard) while I emptied the water of large boulders and no sand whatso- from Chris’s kayak, T rescue style (this is the third instalment of this ever. We had no choice but to gin- (possibly with Nick’s assistance - I account, which is continues from p.17 gerly get out on the smoothest rock we don’t remember this detail a month in Newsletter No.84). could find and haul the boats above later). With Chris’s boat more or less the high water mark. I apologised empty along side mine and Nick aid- Day 6 silently to Kirton Kayaks as we left ing our stability, I talked him through Wednesday 16th June 1999 (13 miles, deep scratches in the hulls of their getting up onto his boat, then seated in three hours paddling) works Inuks. Once they were clear of the cockpit. This all went fine, except One look outside confirmed the fore- even the most determined swells we at one point in the middle when Chris cast had been accurate. It was driz- searched for a place to pitch the tent. was up on his boat, he got up on his zling and the western horizon was an We found the only patch of level, knees like he was crawling, and so ugly, dark shade of grey. Well into boulder free turf in the lee of a dry raised his centre of gravity, to my the routine now we had the boats stone wall, an effective windbreak. concern. With a quick sharp ‘get down packed and we were away by 8.30am. We got the tent up quickly and dived low’ or similar instruction we com- We could just about make out in for a rest. pleted the rescue smoothly. Achiltibue on the mainland behind the Summer Isles so we felt confident It had been an epic morning and we I then went back to check out the of at least getting some mileage out of both felt the need to communicate floating dragon boaters, who were the day. Our first waypoint was the with our partners. We walked along- still in the same spot. A small surf eastern side of Priest Island. Once we side Loch of Reiff, a small brackish rescue sized inflatable was down near came out from its lee we began to feel stretch of water strewn with jetsam the southern end of Taranaki St. wharf, the first gusts from the impending both interesting and foul smelling, and ‘UDC Rescue’ the Wellington gale. Heading for the northern tip of evidence of many more severe storms sea rescue Niad was at Fergs floating Tanera Beg, the smaller of the two that have battered this lonely spot. pontoons at Queens wharf. UDC Res- main Summer Isles, the sea began to Arriving at a small collection of houses cue was having a conversation on the build. We were doing a broad reach that in these parts represents a village VHF radio with someone (I don’t with the occasional surf run. We saw we met some mountain bikers out for recall who, possibly Beacon Hill,) several Great Skua, thugs of the bird a blast. We sheltered from the rain and reported that they had all the world. One flew directly at me low behind a rocky outcrop as we shared dragon boaters out of the water. I was and fast, staring me right in the eye as our experiences. They had not seen a surprised at this and concerned for the if trying to intimidate me. It worked, phone for a least a couple of miles. few mentioned previously, still in the the thickset shoulders and hooked beak We walked on. As we passed a bun- water. So I called UDC Rescue on the looked quite menacing from three feet galow a young girl swept onto the VHF and they promptly came over away! drive in her Golf GTI. She confirmed and attended to the people in the wa- the nearest public phone was in the ter. I noted that the surf rescue sized The tops of the five to six foot chop next village, twenty minutes at least inflatable was slowly towing a sub- began breaking over us. We took a on foot. This was her mother’s house merged dragon boat up from the South- line straight for Reiff Bay, Wilson but she wouldn’t mind us using her ern end of Taranaki St. wharf. dealing well with the increasing seas, phone. We did not need to be asked the biggest he had ever been out in he twice. Wilson and I were soon sat in There was a report in the Evening Post revealed later. The Inuks held their the bay window, the right side of the the following night (expressing con- line despite the oblique angle of the double glazing as the wind and rain cern) about 3 dragon boats capsizing swell but as we approached Reiff Bay came in with a vengeance. I scored an in the harbour the previous evening. it was becoming apparent that to con- immediate hit with the elder daughter, We three kayakers paddled back to tinue would be foolhardy. After Reiff a middle-aged, stern faced woman Freyberg beach okay, got changed Bay was the major headland of Rubha dressed in a donkey jacket, jeans and etc., and went to the network meeting. Coigeach with little prospect of a safe men’s leather boots; landing if we needed it. Our only “I love that picture” Cathye Haddock 16 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

I indicated a large, bold, colourful oil Minch was coming our way. The sea east was dominated by Cul Mor, painting of three fishermen dragging was still too rough to make launching Suilven, Canisp and Quinag, the height a net in over the side of the open boat. for an evening paddle an option. We of these peaks exaggerated by the It transpired she was the artist. It set about drying our kit and hauling surrounding ice-scoured lowland. really was an excellent work. I par- the boats over the narrow isthmus Once as mighty as the Himalayas, the ticularly liked the way she had used a onto the shore of Loch of Reiff. We mountains of the North West are now tartan pattern of blues, greys and black had decided that to launch into Reiff just stumps but no less beautiful for to represent the choppy sea. Bay would be safer if the swell was that. The action of wind, rain and ice still big in the morning. A shallow have left rugged, craggy summits that We sat for three hours talking to mother watercourse would allow us to float can provide some of the toughest and daughter about life in the North the boats out of the loch and into the mountaineering in Europe with ex- West. Reiff was known as ‘the busi- bay. I attempted to take a few artistic tremes of weather and total isolation. est dead end in Scotland’. The area photos in the evening sunshine. The Our excellent progress towards Point had suffered much at the time of the quality of light was superb, my skill in of Stoer was almost halted by big Clearances and was now sparsely capturing it on film questionable. clapotis caused by the north westerly populated. Nearby, Achiltibue had Large clumps of Sea Pink and thick swell being reflected back off the ver- until recently an active salmon fish- hairy lichen clung tenaciously to the tical cliffs. As the rebounding wave ing station and still has a smokery, but cliffs. The view back towards the met the on-coming swell the wave now most of the fishing in these wa- Summer Isles explained how they had height would double, sometimes ex- ters is done for sport. Many locals still got their name. An isolated croft in a ploding in a burst of spray. It was practice the crofting way of life and small valley of its own demanded impossible to maintain any sort of are part farmer and part fisherman closer inspection. Not a bothy but rhythm as we were thrown first one but, to an increasing extent, the rev- clearly someone’s wilderness hidea- way then the other, the bows of the enue-earning activities are now more way. I was enthralled by the Hebri- Inuks slamming into each wave likely to be related to tourism. The dean sunset, Wilson found his trough. I had to use every bit of unpredictable weather meant you ThermaRest more attractive! Radio strength I had to maintain any forward could not rely on one source of in- 4’s ‘Book at Bedtime’ then sleep. momentum, heaving the boat up the come. Despite (or perhaps because Another big day tomorrow. oncoming wave faces. It was the of) the distance to the nearest town, biggest swell of the journey so far and Ullapool, some thirty miles away by Day 7 I would estimate it at around twenty road, their quality of life was good. Thursday 17th June 1999 (51 miles, feet from trough to crest. We were Sky TV kept them in touch with the ten and a half hours paddling) suffering the consequences of pass- rest of the world. It was clear though The plan to paddle down the loch to ing too close to the cliffs, something that fashion was not high on their list Reiff Bay worked well. We walked we would remember for the rounding of priorities as mother sat talking to us the kayaks down the man made water- of Cape Wrath where the clapotis was in her floral dress and Wellington course and launched without diffi- likely to be much more severe. boots! It was good to talk to Linda on culty. There was a residual swell the phone, although it was apparent from the previous day’s storm but we As we neared The Point, the 66 metre she was unable to comprehend just rounded Rubha Coigeach without pinnacle of The Old Man of Stoer how bad the weather was here in Reiff. much problem. The target for the day came into view. It was first climbed She was complaining about being sun- was Kinlochbervie or possibly by humans in 1966 but the only rock burnt at home in Devon! When the Sandwood Bay, the last possible land- athletes we saw were guillemots and children arrived after their hour long ing before Cape Wrath. It was impor- razorbills. As soon as we got past The journey home from school it was time tant that we achieved big mileage Old Man, the clapotis died away. We to leave. We thanked them for their again as we had lost our half day found nowhere to get out. We had hospitality leaving a pound coin be- advantage because of the storm. been in the boats for nearly three side the telephone despite mother’s hours. We resigned to the inevitable. protests. From Rubha Coigeach we com- Readers who have not had the pleas- menced the first of the day’s three big ure (?) of sitting in a kayak for hours We ran all the way back to the tent a crossings. Ten miles to Point of Stoer, on end will probably be disgusted by mile or so away along a slippery path, the lighthouse clearly visible. Sea the thought of urinating in the boat. the rain soaking our backs. Gasping conditions improved the further out to Certainly I would not do it out of and laughing we dived into the tent sea we went. The substantial north choice but the bent paddling position soaking wet. We just crashed out in westerly swell rolled beneath us at a and constant twisting of the trunk and our wet clothes hoping our body heat rate of knots. We were able to catch abdominal muscles produces an over- would dry them out. We must have the occasional perpendicular runner whelming desire to relieve the pres- slept for well over an hour. I was caused by the light south westerly sure on the bladder. There are cath- awoken by sunlight shining through breeze; just enough to lift the kayaks eter systems that have been used ef- the tent walls. The storm had passed. in a forward surge for a few metres fectively on very long open crossings A strip of blue sky the length of the before dying back. The view to the but we were not that well prepared. I

17 No. 85 February - March 2000 will admit to enjoying the warm trickle The cloud cover was breaking and we the contrast! The quality of the food down my legs and promised myself a were soon down to just rash vests. As matched the price so, fat and happy quick dip in the sea at lunch time! The we approached we were met by dol- we headed off again at 2.30pm to- problem was that having given in once, phins who criss-crossed our path at wards Sandwood Bay. We were quiet my resistance was gone and the flood- high speed, seemingly frustrated by though, both of us knew that the gates opened - literally. During the our pedestrian pace. A couple of high afternoon’s paddle was potentially the next two and a half hour crossing I had leaps within feet of my bow and they most challenging and dangerous of to go three times. My cockpit smelt were gone as quickly as they had our lives. Success was essential, the pretty unpleasant I can tell you! arrived. Their effortless grace and consequences, if things did not go to vivacious energy made our efforts plan, did not bear thinking about. As we paddled away from Point of seem cumbersome in comparison. We Stoer heading directly for the solid could hear the thump of big swell I had spent many hours studying the buttress of Handa Island, I began to hitting the reefs on the west face of the tidal streams around the Cape. We allow a thought that had been in the island. The shock waves caused by needed to delay our approach if we back of my mind all morning to come the explosive release of compressed were to avoid wind against tide condi- out into the open. air could be felt as well as heard. tions with resultant overfalls. I planned Several puffin, and many more guil- to land on the beach at Sandwood Bay As we sat consuming another pack of lemots and razorbills came to inspect before making our final assault. As ‘Bullets’ I ran it by Wilson. us as we entered the Sound of Handa. soon as we came out of the shelter of “I’ve been thinking, with this great An RSPB reserve, Handa Island is the Sound of Handa the swell was weather just now and a bad forecast further evidence of the excellent work massive. Huge walls of water threw for tomorrow....” done by this charity. An aluminium themselves on the reef slabs just to our “ I know what you are going to say, launch ran past us ferrying more right. Cascades of foam and froth you want to do Cape Wrath tonight.” twitchers to the various hides perched poured from every gully as the swells high on the cliffs. I smugly contem- retreated, wounded but defiant. In no As usual we were on exactly the same plated how none of them were likely time at all we were into the clapotis wavelength. We both knew that Cape to ever get as close as we could to the off Rubh’an Fhir Leithe. A fore-taste Wrath was the crux of the whole trip. bird and animal life of this wild place. of what was to come off the Cape. It Once around the Cape, we should confirmed our strategy. We would have the wind on our backs or be in the We arrived at Tarbet tired but in good give the Cape a wide berth and aim to lee of the cliffs along the north coast. spirits. Two major crossings behind be at least half a mile off the cliffs At least that was the theory. I hadn’t us and with the prospect of settled until we were due west of the light- given much thought to what would weather for the rest of the day we house, only then would we start head- happen if we were unable to get around knew that Cape Wrath was possible. ing east. The Cape was still six miles Cape Wrath. To paddle back to Fort We chatted to the two fishermen from away and we needed to wait for the William the way we had come was out the launch we had seen earlier. Red flood tide. Am Buchaille, ‘The Shep- of the question. We would’ve had to headed, thickset, Viking blood still in herd’ had been a prominent feature in leave the kayaks somewhere safe and their hearts, they appeared contemp- my sub-conscious. The layered stack make our way overland back to the tuous at first. But as Wilson chatted to of Torridonian sandstone at the south- car. It would be a costly, soul destroy- them, outlining our journey so far, ern end of the beautifully remote ing fiasco. I had therefore banished their respect for us grew. They con- Sandwood Bay was as significant a such thoughts and focused on the posi- firmed the forecast we had heard that landmark as any we had passed on our tive. The problem was that Cape morning predicting a blow the next journey north. It told me we were Wrath was still over twenty miles day. We needed a quick lunch so that right there, at the crux of it. Months of away. It was a major undertaking, a we could get back out there. We training and planning were now to be totally committed paddle and not decided to splash out on a meal at the realised. In my mind, perhaps mistak- something to be under-estimated. My very expensive but extremely pleas- enly, the next couple of hours would original plan had always been to at- ant cafe over looking the small har- determine the success or failure of the tempt it in the morning when we would bour. As we sat there dripping all over circumnavigation. If we could just be fresh. To do it last thing in the the carpet I was very self conscious of get around Cape Wrath surely we evening after a hard 45 mile paddle our body odour. No-one seemed to would make it all the way around and was perhaps not such a good idea. We mind. The customers and staff were back to Fort William. agreed to postpone a decision until we fascinated by our adventure. The had obtained the latest weather fore- French waitress was a slim, middle- We were unable to land anywhere on cast from the coastguard at lunch time. aged, good-looking woman with a the mile-long beach. The surf was mess of dark curly hair. Her pleasant, huge, well in excess of six foot. The The Cape could be seen emerging on deferential manner reminded me of lulls between sets were too brief and the northern horizon. It did look tan- my mother. She lived in Lourdes but every so often a monster would rear talisingly close. But first we had to spent three months each summer in up from the sea bed, threatening to finish the crossing to Handa Island. the north west of Scotland - she liked break over us as we sat contemplating

18 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

our next move. We decided to push our kit up to the hut using an old Stornaway via a passing trawler. A on, in spite of the tide. It would be wooden thingamajig (I have no idea hint of disbelief in the voice of the virtually slack by the time we got to what it is called but it was designed radio operator, he seemed pleased to the Cape itself. We headed out, mak- perfectly for the job!) we soon made help. ing a conscious effort to put distance ourselves at home. We then set out on between us and the towering cliffs. a march up to the lighthouse. The We asked the ‘Dutch Boys’ to take a The lighthouse came into view, built track seemed to go on forever, climb- photo of us and the lighthouse, then by Robert Stevenson in 1827, I won- ing around Dunan Mor giving a view we bid them farewell. They were dered just how many vessels had back across the peninsular to camping in the lee of a stone wall on passed beneath its gaze. Very few as Sandwood Bay. Inland the Flow Coun- the cliff edge and were hoping to small as ours I mused. The swell was try of bog, moor and mountain stretched catch the minibus that infrequently large, perhaps twenty feet, but the as far as the eye could see without any makes it out to Cape Wrath and return clapotis was not as bad as it had been sign of human habitation. The weather to civilisation. We yomped back to off Point of Stoer. We continued to had closed in and it started to rain. Yet our valley. It was raining heavily by head north resisting the temptation to again we had made it around a major the time we got back. More kit to dry turn right. Only when we were due obstacle in the nick of time! out. We searched the boulder ‘beach’ east of the light did we allow our- beside the jetty for wood for a fire. It selves to drift in, passing within a few At last we arrived at the lighthouse, a was barren. The evidence suggested metres of the north-facing cliffs. Vi- rather forlorn building lacking the many other travellers had used this king longships sailed these seas in the charm of its Southern cousins. It was unofficial bothy and almost every- Middle Ages, making forays south surrounded by an odd assortment of thing combustible had been turned to from their bases in the Orkneys. The outbuildings some of which were ashes in the soot blackened hearth. name Cape Wrath comes from the clearly in use, others seemed to have We found a few meagre scraps and Norse, “Hvarf” meaning ‘turning- been abandoned to whatever fate be- those combined with our own rubbish point’ and I could see why. For days fell them. We took a look around to gave us sufficient for a small fire that we had been following the cliffs and see if anyone was in residence. I lasted long enough to light the dark mountains forever northwards. Sud- knocked on a few doors but the place interior of the windowless hut during denly the coast bore away to the east was apparently deserted. Our slim dinner. Then it was diaries by and the only thing between us and the hope of borrowing a telephone faded. headtorch whilst snugly cocooned in Arctic Circle was ocean; vast, storm- Suddenly Wilson called out. I ran our sleeping bags. The wind rushed ravaged ocean. around the corner to see Wilson talk- down the valley sides buffeting our ing to a couple of very odd-looking small home, rain clattered on the slate The huge gneissic slab forming the chaps. I use the word ‘couple’ delib- roof. The only radio station we could most northerly point of the ‘foreland’ erately. They were clearly very good pick up on my little Sony was Norwe- was a bird city. A vertical conurba- friends with matching short-cropped gian. We had no idea what the next tion of individual bird colonies; kitti- haircuts, bushy moustaches and ef- day would bring but at least we were wakes, guillemots, razorbills, puffins feminate voices. They were from the on the ‘Roof of Britain’ and com- all competing for space on the guano Netherlands and had walked all the forted by that thought I slept soundly. ledges. Thousands of birds whirled way from Fort William along the above our heads like a plague of huge coastal path. It put our efforts into Day 8 insects. context. They were fascinated by our Friday 18th June 1999 (21 miles, seven “I see what they mean about these journey too and Wilson related tales hours paddling) Scottish midges!” Wilson remarked. our adventures so far. I wandered off It was windy, very, very windy. Hur- to try the VHF radio. I was disap- riedly I got up and went down to the We hugged the cliffs searching each pointed to find that Stornaway Coast- waters edge. I tried to rationalise it. geo for the slipway indicated on the guard were unable to hear me. It Yes it was windy, at least a seven with map. We were both shattered and had further reminded me of our isolation. gusts that were much, much stronger. decided to call it a day. We knew I was concerned that we were unable But it was off-shore, or at least cross/ there was little likelihood of finding a to inform the Coastguard of our safe off-shore. Surely the cliffs would phone on this remote stretch of coast. arrival at Cape Wrath, especially since give us shelter? We did not really We resolved to walk up to the light- the weather was deteriorating all the want to stay where we were. We had house, hoping that its three hundred time. I did not want a Search and no contact with the outside world apart foot elevation would be sufficient to Rescue mission initiated mistakenly from the VHF and we needed to save enable our VHF hand-held radio to on our behalf. I expressed my con- the battery life for a real emergency. reach Stornoway Coastguard. We cern to Wilson who suggested I call We were out of drinking water and the eventually found the jetty and a fish- up a passing ship. It had worked on stream had turned brown with over- erman’s hut which would do nicely as the Irish Sea crossing, why not give it night rain. We discussed our options. our shelter for the night. There was a go? I put out a broadcast to “any I was keen to press on. Wilson was certainly nowhere to pitch the tent in vessel”. I immediately got a reply and more reserved. He reminded me that the steep rocky valley. Having lugged was able to relay a message to he had sailed in this sort of wind and

19 No. 85 February - March 2000 knew we would not be able to paddle being pushed flat onto the front deck carefully to Wilson in the future. If he against it. I argued that we shouldn’t of my kayak. My wing paddles were was in two minds about whether to have to. Wilson agreed to give it a go trying to live up to their name. They paddle we would err on the side of with the proviso that if it got worse we whipped about, trying to take off like caution. would stop at the first opportunity. some wild bird making a last ditch We were quickly sorted and afloat. fight for freedom. All around us wa- We had glided into an eerie calm. The wind immediately blew us out of ter was being sent skywards. There Looking back we could just see the our little gully. I shouted at Wilson to was no distinction between land, sea last pair of stacks in the gloom. I took hug the cliffs. The sea was essentially and sky, it was all one tumultuous, a photo knowing the drama would be flat but sheets of spray were being chaotic mess and we were right in the lost in the monochrome grey. Look- torn from the surface and whisked out middle of it! ing ahead the awesome cliffs of Clo to sea by the frequent gusts. The swell Mor disappeared upwards. The high- offshore was just visible through the Strangely enough, I was enjoying the est cliffs on mainland Britain at 920 murk. Horsetails of spume suggested experience. This was nature at its feet, they were home to hundreds of a valiant struggle as the waves at- most raw. This is what I had come to thousands of sea birds. The stench of tempted to make headway against the the North Coast for. This was ‘Ex- guano was over-powering. Puffins, fearsome wind. We made rapid treme Sea Kayaking’. I was confident razorbills and guillemots leapt suicid- progress in the lee of the cliffs to the in our abilities and did not allow my- ally from perches hundreds of feet small bay of Geodha na Seamraig. self to contemplate the consequences above us. Dropping almost vertically Then we saw it! A shark’s tooth stack if things went wrong. We had passed towards the rocks at the base of the perhaps 150 feet high, wreathed in a through the gap but there were more cliff they would pull up at the last swirling vortex of spray. Between it stacks ahead. Much taller, these mega- second to fly low and fast across the and the towering cliff a narrow gap, liths blocked our path to shelter. We surface of the sea, their fat tummies twenty feet wide. A raging cauldron braced ourselves as we rushed to- bouncing off the wave tops, until they of white water. Katabatic winds were wards them. As we roared past I be- ‘landed’ in an undignified heap above descending the peaks of Beinn Dearg, gan laughing to myself. A crazy, their chosen fishing site. Sometimes Fashven and Sgribhis-bheinn, accel- manic laugh of someone on the edge. they would not land at all but just fly erating down the Kearvaig River val- I was loving it! We were close to aimlessly around within a few hun- ley so that when they hit the surface of catastrophe but I was loving it. I was dred meters of the shore and having the small bay they were gusting in brought back to reality by Wilson completed a couple of circuits they excess of Force 9. The stack stood who shouted, fighting to maintain his would return to their nest as if their boldly in the wind’s path and as if balance; doctor had advised them to take regu- enraged by its defiance the wind “I WANT OUT!” lar exercise. How they avoided a mid- screamed around the rock tearing “Great!” I thought, “what does he air collision is a mystery to me. An water from its base sending it spiral- expect ME to do about it”. individual call was indecipherable in ling upwards. You will have to take the cacophony of squawks, squeaks our word for it, but we had never seen It served to remind me of the serious- and screeches that came from the au- anything like it before. ness of our situation and I felt guilty dience on the cliffs. Whether it was a about placing Wilson in this predica- show of appreciation or loved ones We had no choice. Although we were ment. He hadn’t wanted to paddle and telling their partners to be careful I am only a couple of hundred meters from in retrospect he had been right. There not sure. As I watched them return shore there was no way we could had been no margin for error whatso- safely to the nest I came to the conclu- paddle against the wind to reach the ever. Eventually we passed the last sion that they should feature in the rocky beach and if we did manage it - stack and the wind dropped. Stopping next advert for Pepsi Max. then what? To go outside of the stack to catch our breath we discussed our meant the risk of being blown out to situation. Wilson had clearly been The bulk of Clo Mor provided sanctu- sea. We had to go for the gap. Into the shaken by the experience and I was ary for a while but we were soon heart of the whirlwind! It would have careful in my choice of words. Yes, heading south east into Balnakeil Bay. been out of the question if there had we had been out of control, but even if The very beautiful Kyle of Durness been any swell. We were blown di- the worst had happened and one of us was hidden from view by horizontal rectly into the melee, we could not had capsized and failed to roll...... we drizzle stinging our hands and faces. paddle, it took all our strength to hold would have coped? Wilson was un- As soon as we had gained the ‘angle onto our blades. I fought with my convinced. I thought back to an arti- of dangle’ we worked a close reach to tiller bar to prevent my kayak from cle I had read in Sea Kayaker maga- Faraid Head. This narrow peninsular hitting the rocks. We were blasted zine about the tragic death of Lone of jagged rock and cliff linked by high through the gap out of control. I was Madsen off the coast of Greenland sand dunes provided a little shelter slightly ahead of Wilson. Trying to when she had got separated from her from the wind. Once around the north back paddle to keep us together, I partner in a squall. Surely we would east tip we were into the teeth of the caught a glimpse of his face. He did be able to stay together whatever the gale. The small town of Durness was not look happy! With each gust I was conditions? I resolved to listen more the only opportunity for shelter but it

20 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

seemed impossible to reach. As each to be careful not to get too sunburnt in decided on an early finish. Paddling gust hit us we were at a standstill, the heat wave back home. Marvel- into a beautiful bay near the village of sometimes even blown backwards. lous! Strathan, a perfect wave curled onto a By hugging the rocks and using the submerged sandbar. Wilson nearly small degree of lee they provided we We sought refuge in the Tourist Infor- got caught out as a large set came were able to work from eddy to eddy mation Office which afforded a great from nowhere, threatening to send and slowly but surely we made ground. view of Sango Bay. We got talking to him bongo-sliding onto the rocks. A The spectacular stacks of Clach Bheag a couple of Swiss girls, their hire car nifty combination of back paddling na Faraid and Clach Mhor na Faraid had got a puncture and they could not and draw strokes prevented that dis- were only appreciated for the brief find the spare. They had left the car aster. Discovering a perfect campsite respite they gave from the head-bang- and walked five miles in the pouring under a rocky outcrop overlooking a ing toil. It took us an hour and a half rain to get help. I offered to take a virgin beach of white sand we re- to paddle the three miles from Faraid look - it is, after all, what I do for a laxed, pleased to have come through Head to Sango Bay. By the time we living - helping stricken motorists. an epic day relatively unscathed. arrived on the sandy beach we were We had nothing else better to do. I left completely exhausted. There was no Wilson ‘in charge’ of the gear in the Needing water and the use of a phone discussion - we were getting out! It warm and dry and having found a lift we walked up to a nearby croft. A was chucking it down, but at least the with an English couple on their an- curious colour scheme, the corrugated exertion of the last few miles had kept nual holiday to the North Coast, I iron walls were freshly painted cream, us warm. Now we had stopped we soon located the car and the spare the windows a bright red. Numerous were quickly overcome by uncontrol- wheel. They had not thought to look red and yellow buoys were neatly lable shivers. We needed to get the under the carpet in the boot! The girls arranged along the front of the cot- boats above the high water mark. We offered to buy us lunch in gratitude. tage. The old man who answered the had no idea how long we would be We declined their generosity but did door was as deaf as a post. Fortu- stuck there and both of us felt it was share a table with them very con- nately his wife/sister/daughter (it was unlikely we would paddle again even scious of the fact that as soon as our hard to tell) came to the door and though it was not yet midday. To get bodies started to warm up we began to showed us the outside tap. She ex- the boats above the high water mark smell - bad! plained that they did not have a phone meant a tricky carry up sharp rocks to but the local Coastguard lived just get to the grass covered slopes be- We found an excellent shop after lunch over the hill. A mile or more by road, hind. As we struggled with my Inuk where we re-stocked on cereal bars if we followed the dyke over the ridge, Wilson cried out in pain, dropping the and other bits and pieces. On my his was the newly built bungalow stern of my kayak onto the rocks. His mission of mercy I had seen the next with the Highways truck parked out- wetsuit boot had been punctured by stretch of coast in glimpses through side. We found it easily and a large the edge of a broken drainage pipe. the drizzle. The wind seemed to be burly man dressed in oil stained over- Typically he was not concerned by very much cross-shore and would be alls confirmed he was Her Majesty’s the injury to his foot but was upset on our backs for most of the time. By Coastguard. He was delighted to help because in dropping my Inuk it had 4pm we were itching to get going. and rang Stornaway on our behalf. torn and bent the aluminium rudder The wind had decreased appreciably We chatted for a while admiring his bracket. I must confess to a little so, after a careful carry back down the new pad. He was pleased with it, panic when I first saw it - I did not rocks to the beach, we headed out having built it himself on land he had fancy paddling back to Fort William again. It was fine and we were soon inherited. He had lived all his life on without a rudder. But closer inspec- crossing the mouth of Loch Eriboll this remote coast with no plans to go tion revealed that, although badly dam- towards Whiten Head. It was windy, any place else. His wife had made a aged, with some brute force re-adjust- especially with the increased fetch in valiant attempt to cultivate a flower ment it would probably last out the trip. the middle of the Loch. It lived up to garden but it had been destroyed by its nickname of Loch ‘Orrible given the gales leaving the plants in tatters. We quickly unpacked and changed by the serviceman stationed there dur- I asked him about the surf in the bay. into warm clothes. The wind was ing World War II who had little to do He described how sometimes the unrelenting. I could only just open the but wait for battle. Spray stung our waves broke from one end of the bay door to the telephone kiosk. Whilst I faces but we were able to get the angle to the other, ‘just like Hawaii’ he chatted to Linda I watched a flock of right to surf most of the way. Whiten described. Interesting! black headed gulls being fed on the Head has the last remaining breeding wing by a man through the side win- colony of grey seals in the caves at its We enjoyed a watery sunset from our dow of his camper van. The gulls base. We were careful not to disturb perch above the bay. Chatting, we were flapping furiously to stay level them as we paddled past. Curiosity as agreed that it would be a day we and in contention for the best titbits. It always got the better of them and we would never forget. We had paddled was a surreal sight. As the rain bat- soon led a procession of bobbing through the eye of a whirlwind - and tered the perspex panels of the kiosk heads. Dusk was going to arrive early survived! What would tomorrow Linda described how she was having with the heavily laden skies so we bring? (to be continued in n/l 86)

21 No. 85 February - March 2000 FOR SALE RISK Business for Sale The following poem was read by Cathye Haddock at her session on Risk Rotorua Management at the recent Coastbusters. As there we several requests for copies, Successful Tourism Venture requires I have included it in the n/l. new owners. Medium impact activi- ties - Lakes and Sea Kayak related. RISK by Leo Busgaglia Annual bookings with Private Train- ing Establishments, Intermediate and Secondary Schools and Polytechnics To laugh is to risk appearing a fool, are a major part of the business to weep is to risk appearing sentimental or weak, through the low season. to reach out for another is to risk involvement, to express feelings is to risk exposing one’s true self, We have established a National client to share ideas and dreams before a crowd is to risk their base with Tourism Centres, Motel, Hotel, Backpackers, Conference In- loss, centive and Activity companies, New to love is to risk not being loved in return, Zealand Adventure companies (mar- to live is to risk dying, to hope is to risk despair, keting off shore) and Travel Booking to try is to risk failure Office?s.

We have advanced group bookings The greatest hazard in life is to risk nothing. with the International market includ- They who risk nothing, have nothing, are nothing. ing (USA and Japan). They may avoid suffering and sorrow, but fail to grow, to be as much of themselves as they can be, We wish to sell the business as a going and concern. Asset Items include:- Plant and Equipment, to have as much of time and life as there is Dedicated Trailer Registered Company Name, only a person who risks is free. P O Box #, Telephone and Fax Numbers, Mobile Phone and Number, Email address Website Address KASK FORUM 2000 25,000 Brochures 2,000 Brochure Inserts. Graphic Photos on CD DATES: 3pm Easter Friday 21 April Current advertising is with Tourism to Offices, AA Guide - What To See Noon Easter Monday 24 April And Do, The Lonely Planet, Travel Booking Offices though out New Zealand. VENUE: South New Brighton Community Hall, The business has been operating for 6 Beatty St, South New Brighton years and is in a position for growth and expansion due to the trends for greater outdoor activities. ACOMMODATION: South Brighton Motor Camp For further information, please reply Ph/fax: (03) 388 9844 to: Business for Sale CONTACT: C/- P O Box 1715 Rotorua Peter Sullivan 7 Monowai Crescent, Christchurch 9 Ph: (03) 3883 380 email: [email protected]

22 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter

Shark or not, the press clippings noted LETTER TO THE IN THE PRESS that neither man was wearing a EDITOR lifejacket! Readers will note that the CLINTON WAGHORN photo on the front cover of the news- From Sisson Kayaks Ltd The 'New Zealand Listener' March letter shows Chris Duff wearing a Over the past year, several kayak 18-24 2000 has a two page article LIFEJACKET prior to his departure owners have notified us that their boats including colour pics of Clinton from Rapahoe. Chris, like myself, have been stolen. This problem seems Waghorn's Alaskan trip, as noted in removes his lifejacket once well at to be getting worse because the calls the editorial. In May this year Clinton sea, but for landings through surf, the are becoming more frequent. Until heads back to Chevak, near the mouth lifejacket goes back on! if you are now we were powerless to broadcast of the Yukon River in the Bering Sea playing in surf in a sea kayak, please this alert. where he is aiming to paddle south wear a lifejacket. There is always a around the coast of Alaska to his start chance of being knocked unconscious We have decided to do something point at Prince Rupert. Vincent Maire by some other womble in a kayak or in positive to help the victims of this also sent me a photocopy of a feature the event of an out of boat experience, rotten crime. On our website: article on Clinton's trip which ap- being knocked out by your own kayak. www.sissonkayaks.co.nz peared on page 13-14 of the Saturday Swimming in heavy surf without the we have recently added the Second February 5 edition of the 'Waikato buoyancy of a lifejacket or a wetsuit Hand Emporium. An extension of this Times.' can be extremely tiring. page is the stolen boat register. List- ings in the Stolen Boat Register are JET SKI CRASH KAYAKERS RESCUED free. 'The Press' 29/01/00: Millionaire busi- 'The Press' 22/03/00: Emergency nessman Alan Gibbs, 60, admitted workers pulled two Israeli tourists If you can bring this service to the dangerously driving a jet-ski and was from cold Lake Tekapo after they attention of paddlers I am sure they fined $3000. Gibbs was driving a pow- were knocked out of their kayaks in will be active in keeping an eye out for erful 1200cc jet-ski near the Cavalli rough weather. The pair, both males stolen boats. the outline for action to Islands off the Northland Coast on aged 23, were in the water for 45 list a stolen kayak is explained in the January 5 when he lost control and minutes and suffered from mild expo- website. Together let's stamp out ploughed into a small dinghy, throw- sure. A policeman noted they should kayak theft. ing the four occupants into the water. have not been out in the conditions. Gibbs, who was charged under the In addition your readers may be inter- Maritime Safety Act, had paid $5000 KAYAKERS RESCUED ested in listing their used boats in our to the victims in the dinghy and $5000 'The Press' 22/03/00: Four kayakers Second Hand Emporium. By listing to the St John Ambulance who took were rescued in rough seas off the their boat here they are getting true them to the hospital. Kaikoura coast yesterday afternoon. nationwide coverage. In fact the cov- A Mayday call was received after erage is actually worldwide - yes - A great pity the judge didn't order some tourists and a tourist operator secondhand kayaks are already being confiscation of the wretched jet-ski found themselves in choppy condi- exported. If needed, we can help po- and pass it on to the Phantom for a tions about 500m off the Kaikoura tential exporters with freight advice. jolly good stoning and burning! coast. A Police and Coast Guard operation was mounted to pick up the Grahame Sisson. MISSING KAYAKER people, one of whom had fallen out of 'The Press' 4/03/00: a kayak. Two paddlers headed out of the Kakanui River mouth and were head- FOR SALE ing around to Cambell's Bay, about WANTED Sea Kayaks, 2 single Puffins, 1 Dobbe 11km south-west of Oamaru. Ricky Contributors to the KASK Newslet- Double (fiberglass) Stringer paddled back out to sea while ter. Now that summer is waning, Lots of equipment (Buoyancy aids, his companion stayed on the beach, please send me trip reports of the paddles, spray skirts etc) and then got into difficulties. Police summer missions or articles relating ph (03) 525 9095, believe ('Greymouth Evening Star' 9/ to any aspects of sea kayaking. Cover email: [email protected] 03/00) that Ricky may have been taken photos are also requested. by a shark, as a brown gym shoe worn Thanks a lot! by Mr Stringer was found just north of Regards, All Day Bay, about 2km from where THANKS Nigel Marsden he went missing. The shoe had been To the contributors to this newsletter, Planet Earth Adventures damaged and part of the heel was Beverley Burnett, Cathye Haddock, ph (03) 525 9095 missing. Sandy Ferguson, and the printing and http://home.clear.net.nz/pages/nigelm mailing team of Phil Handford, Helen Woodward and David Herrington.

23 No. 85 February - March 2000 MAILED TO

If undelivered, please return to: Helen Woodward, 82 Hutcheson St. Blenheim.

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