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Diplomsko Delo UNIVERZA V LJUBLJANI FILOZOFSKA FAKULTETA ODDELEK ZA ETNOLOGIJO IN KULTURNO ANTROPOLOGIJO DIPLOMSKO DELO LJUBLJANA, 2015 INES BEZJAK UNIVERZA V LJUBLJANI FILOZOFSKA FAKULTETA ODDELEK ZA ETNOLOGIJO IN KULTURNO ANTROPOLOGIJO INES BEZJAK Mastika, arhitekturna dediščina in ladje: O alternativnem turizmu na grškem otoku Chios Diplomsko delo Študijski program: Etnologija in kulturna antropologija - E Mentor: doc. dr. Boštjan Kravanja Ljubljana, 2015 Zahvala Na prvem mestu gre zahvala mojim sogovornikom, profesorjem, sošolcem in prijateljem v Grčiji – ευχαριστώ πολύ! Hvala, da ste z mano delili vaše spomine in mnenja. Nadalje bi se rada zahvalila mentorju doc. dr. Boštjanu Kravanji za ves čas, trud in neskončno razumevanje, ki mi je res ogromno pomenilo. Do zaključka verjetno ne bi prišla tudi brez spodbud Mitja in Nastje. Hvala za vajino potrpljenje in prave besede ob pravem času. Hvala tudi družini za vso pomoč skozi celoten čas študija in vzbujanje trme, ki me je pripeljala do konca. Pa mi je le uspelo! Za smeh in sprostitev v tem napornem času pa se posebej zahvaljujem še prijateljicam Lei, Katji V., Petri, Mateji, Katji H., Nadji in Aljani. Zlate ste! Izvleček Mastika, arhitekturna dediščina in ladje: o alternativnem turizmu na grškem otoku Chios Avtorica v diplomskem delu antropološko predstavlja dogajanje na področju turističnega razvoja na grškem otoku Chios. Najprej se loti predstavitve antropologije turizma in njenih ključnih tem ter teorij. Skozi zgodovino turizma vpelje nastanek in delovanje turističnega razvoja v Grčiji. Sprašuje se, kateri faktorji so ključno vplivali na padce in vzpone grškega turizma v tem tisočletju in oceni vlogo recesij v turističnih krizah. Etnografsko terensko delo je opravljala na otoku Chios v vasi Mesta. Podroben opis življenja, zgodovine in dejavnosti prebivalcev Chiosa ji služi kot izhodišče za razumevanje turističnih podob, ki jih otok ponuja. Zanima jo, kako glavne turistične atrakcije odsevajo identiteto prebivalcev Chiosa in kakšno je njihovo razumevanje pojmov množičnega ter alternativnega turizma na otoku. Z izpostavljanjem mastike in arhitekturne dediščine se loteva opisovanja vasi Mesta. Zgodovino turističnega razvoja v Mesti skuša razumeti skozi različne družbene in ekonomske procese, danes pa je ta razvoj povezan tudi z modnima pojmoma t.i. odgovornega ali alternativnega turizma. Diplomsko delo avtorica konča s strnjenimi ugotovitvami in pregledom razvojnih procesov v zadnjih treh letih, ki so minile od njene zadnje etnografske prisotnosti. Ključne besede: antropologija turizma, recesija, mastika, arhitektura, odgovorni turizem Abstract Mastic, architectural heritage and ships: on alternative tourism on the Greek island of Chios In the thesis, the author anthropologicaly presents the workings on the field of tourism development on the Greek island of Chios. At first, she presents anthropology of tourism with its main themes and theories. Through the history of tourism she presents the emergence and operations of tourism development in Greece. She is interested in factors that were key influences on rises and falls of Greek tourism in this millenium and assesses the impact of recessions on tourism crises. The author did her ethnographic fieldwork on the island of Chios, in the village of Mesta. A detailed description of life, history and activities of the islands inhabitants serves her as a point of departure for understanding tourist images that the island offers. She is curious about how the main tourist attractions reflect identity of Chios' residents and how they understand the notions of mass and alternative tourism on the island. Description of the village Mesta is based on mastic and architectural heritage. She tries to understand the history of tourism development in Mesta through different social and economic processes, while nowadays this development is also connected with fashionable notions of so called responsible or alternative tourism. The author concludes the thesis with compendious findings and with an overview of the development processes in the last three years, which have passed from her last ethnographic presence. Key words: anthropology of tourism, recession, mastic, architecture, responsible tourism Vsebina 1 UVOD ............................................................................................................................................... 1 2 TURIZEM IN NJEGOVA SPREMENLJIVA NARAVA ............................................................................. 5 2.1. Izzivi antropoloških definicij turizma ....................................................................................... 5 2.2. Glavne teorije in vprašanja kulture v antropologiji turizma ................................................... 8 3 METODOLOGIJA ............................................................................................................................ 16 3.1. Opis terenskega dela ............................................................................................................. 18 3.2. Metode in ovire terenskega dela .......................................................................................... 19 3.3. Moji sogovorniki .................................................................................................................... 21 4 POTOVANJE SKOZI ČAS IN PROSTOR ............................................................................................. 23 4.1. Razvoj turistične misli od antike do druge svetovne vojne ................................................... 23 4.2. Pojav modernega turizma ..................................................................................................... 27 4.3. Moderni turizem v Mediteranu v drugi polovici 20. stoletja ................................................ 32 4.4. Turizem v Grčiji v 21. stoletju ................................................................................................ 35 5 CHIOS, MASTIKA, MESTA – PO POTEH MOJE RAZISKAVE ............................................................. 45 5.1. Geografska in gospodarska raznolikost otoka Chios ............................................................. 45 5.1.1. Myrovolos Xios : delovanje in podobe turizma na Chiosu ............................................. 50 5.2. Mastika in njene solze ........................................................................................................... 56 5.2.2. Uporabnost in kultivacija mastike .................................................................................. 59 5.3. Srednjeveška naselbina Mesta .............................................................................................. 63 6 TURIZEM V MESTI .......................................................................................................................... 70 6.1. Začetki turistične misli ........................................................................................................... 70 6.2. Novo obdobje turizma v Mesti .............................................................................................. 73 6.3. Srečanja in odnosi med domačini in turisti ........................................................................... 78 6.4. Pojem odgovornosti v turizmu Meste ................................................................................... 82 7 ZAKLJUČEK ..................................................................................................................................... 86 8 Summary ....................................................................................................................................... 91 9 LITERATURA IN VIRI ....................................................................................................................... 92 10 PRILOGE ..................................................................................................................................... 104 10.1. Številčni podatki o nastanitveni infrastrukturi na otoku Chios iz leta 2012 (priloga 1) .... 104 10.2. Število mednarodnih turistov na Chiosu med leti 1995 in 2011 (priloga 2) ..................... 104 10.3. Število potnikov na trajektu med turškim mestom Çeşme in otokom Chios med leti 2009 in 2011 (priloga 3) .......................................................................................................................... 106 10.4. Število registriranih obdelovalcev mastike po posameznih kooperativah (priloga 4) ...... 106 1 UVOD Na prvem predavanju iz predmeta Antropologija turizma je profesor dejal, da po tem predmetu nikoli ne bomo več potovali in gledali na turizem na isti način kot doslej. Niti malo se ni zmotil. Namreč, ko enkrat spoznaš delovanje turističnega sistema skozi njegove najmanjše dele, si ne moraš kaj, da ne bi bil pozoren na interakcije med njimi in jih povezoval s širšo sliko turizma v svetu. Iz kupov prebrane literature mi je zato še vedno najljubši spodnji citat. Toda za to brezskrbno fasado je mnogo nenapisanih pravil (Löfgren 1999: 5).1 Turizem je ena najhitreje rastočih industrij na svetu, ekonomsko gledano jo lahko primerjamo z naftno in avtomobilsko industrijo. Ta stavek lahko najdemo v skoraj vsakem članku, diplomi in knjigi s področja antropologije turizma. Tako je sociolog turizma Eric Cohen že leta 1984 označil rast mednarodnega turizma s pridevnikom spektakularno ter v podporo temu navedel številke mednarodnih turistov. Medtem ko se je v njegovem primeru ta številka med leti 1950 in 1981 dvignila s 25 na 291 milijonov (Cohen 1984: 377), lahko danes, torej
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