Jim Hoover [email protected] www.vacaydreams.com 855-92-VACAY | 425-279-8058 HALIFAX, NS OVERVIEW Introduction Throughout its history, Halifax, Nova Scotia, has been defined by the Atlantic Ocean. Its blue-gray presence is visible from the city's glass high-rises, centuries-old buildings and surrounding hills. Being built around a huge natural harbor that's second size-wise only to the one in Sydney, Australia, Halifax boasts a vibrant port that has catered to both commercial and naval vessels for more than 260 years. The fact that it was recently awarded a Can$25-billion federal shipbuilding contract further underscores how Halifax's ocean access drives the provincial economy. That same body of water also makes it an ideal tourist destination. The water offers ample recreational opportunities, and most major attractions—from the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic and the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 to the Halifax Citadel (which was originally built to defend against sea attacks)—reflect the role it has played in the city's evolution. Whether you are strolling on the photogenic 0.6 mi/1 km harborfront boardwalk, which extends from Casino Nova Scotia to Marginal Road, or hiking in Point Pleasant Park and Sir Sandford Fleming Park, which face each other across the Northwest Arm, water is virtually everywhere—and foodies will marvel at the fresh seafood it yields. Nevertheless, there is more to Halifax than the ocean. As the capital of Nova Scotia and the largest Canadian city east of Quebec, Halifax is a center for government, business and health care, which translates into a relatively affluent population. It is a center for higher education, too, with students from six universities injecting a decidedly youthful energy. When you combine those two demographics and factor in locals' famously friendly nature, it is easy to see why Halifax is also an entertainment hotspot, complete with a thriving arts community, an active music scene and nightlife options that few cities of its size can rival. Sights—Step into the past at the Halifax Citadel; get a water view from the Bluenose II or a commuter ferry; see the city's many Titanic sights; indulge in Saturday morning people-watching at the Seaport Farmers Market. Museums—Get your nautical fix at the Maritime Museum; peruse the poignant Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21; marvel over marine life at the Museum of Natural History; ogle the fanciful folk art at the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia. Memorable Meals—Tuck into fish-and-chips at a boardwalk eatery; slurp back oysters at Five Fishermen; have a traditional lobster feast at the Shore Club in Hubbards; sample a specialty cheesecake at Sweet Hereafter. Late Night—Savor a sunset harbor cruise; dance from one bar to another at The Dome; hear Maritime tunes played live at the Split Crow or Lower Deck; raise a glass of locally made lager just about anywhere. Walks—Hike in leafy Point Pleasant Park; stop to smell the roses (and perhaps feed the ducks) in the Public Gardens; breathe in the salt air on the boardwalk; amble through the evocative Old Burying Ground. Especially for Kids—Take a tour on Theodore Too; learn while you play at Discovery Centre; try out the Maritime Museum's marine- themed playground; browse for books at Woozles. Nova Scotia is almost an island, with Northumberland Strait and the Gulf of St. Lawrence to the north, the Atlantic Ocean to the south and east, and the Bay of Fundy (which has the world's highest recorded tides) to the west. The 17-mi-/27-km-wide Isthmus of Chignecto connects the province to the rest of Canada. Halifax Harbour is on the southeast coast of Nova Scotia, opening into the Atlantic, and the city of Halifax spreads out along its shores. The downtown core sits on a peninsula in the harbor, with the other parts of the city farther inland and along the shores of the Bedford Basin. Directly across the harbor—and accessible via a pair of bridges, a ferry and a highway that rounds the Bedford Basin—is Dartmouth. It was Halifax's sister city until they amalgamated in 1996; however, most residents still refer to the two individually. Together they form the cornerstone of the Halifax Regional Municipality (HRM), Canada's 13th-largest metropolitan center. Halifax's first known European visitor, French explorer Samuel de Champlain, noted the good fishing in its deep harbor in 1605, and for centuries before that the seminomadic Mi'kmaq (Native Americans who camped on the inlet now called the Northwest Arm) used it as a hunting ground. However, Halifax wasn't actually settled until its strategic importance became apparent in the mid-18th century. By the time British commander Edward Cornwallis established a fortified garrison there in 1749, the French and English were locked in a bitter war over North America, and Halifax offered the British an important foothold on the continent. With a formidable hilltop Citadel in the town center and a battery of guns overlooking the harbor, it became one of the best-defended towns in North America. In 1759, a British expedition sailed from Halifax up the St. Lawrence River and captured Quebec City, thereby ending two centuries of war over the territories. Halifax retained its military significance. During the American Revolution, the city served as a base for British forces; and afterward local privateers—essentially legalized pirates with the King's permission to capture assets of another country—raided U.S. shipping on the Atlantic seaboard. To this day it is home port for the Canadian Navy's Atlantic Fleet. By the 1860s Halifax had become an economic engine, too. Its harbor, one of the British Empire's most significant seaports, was a vital point of transfer for raw materials from Canada's interior and manufactured goods arriving from around the world. Within the city, Princess Street became known as the "Wall Street of Canada" during the 1900s; two of the nation's major banks plus a host of provincial banks were born there. The harbor also made Halifax a major immigration center. More than a million prospective citizens disembarked on Pier 21 between 1928 and 1971. This national historic landmark (Canada's equivalent to Ellis Island) is now an immigration museum filled with interactive exhibits. There has been a tragic side to Halifax's maritime past, as well. In 1912, 150 victims of the Titanic were brought to the city to be buried in three local graveyards. And in 1917, as munitions ships gathered in the harbor before setting off on the perilous voyage to the war in Europe, a collision between two vessels (the French munitions ship Mont Blanc and the Norwegian Imo, carrying relief supplies for Belgium) resulted in the world's largest man-made explosion prior to the atomic era. More than 2,000 people were killed in the blast, 9,000 were injured and 20,000 were left homeless in the city's leveled North End. Location A day's sail from New York and Boston and a major access point to Europe, Halifax welcomes more than 240,000 passengers every year. The 120-plus ships it receives annually include vessels from major lines, all of which are greeted by the kilted bagpipers and drummers of the 78th Highlanders. The cruise season runs April-October and most ships dock at Pavilion 22, a few blocks south of downtown, though some may dock just south at Pavilion 23 or north at Pavilion 20 when harbor traffic is heavy. Between them sits Pier 21: Once an immigration shed and now Canada's national immigration museum, it has engaging exhibits and a top-notch genealogical research center. The cruise terminal itself contains restrooms, shops, pay phones and an information booth. Everything else you'll need to get started on your shore excursion is within a few minutes' stroll. Taxis line up at the cruise pier when ships are in port. If you don't find one there, walk a block inland to the Westin Nova Scotian Hotel, or to the taxi stand at the corner of South and Barrington streets. Taxi stands are marked by green-and-white Common Stand signs. To reach the city's historic core on foot, follow Lower Water Street (the one closest to the harbor) about three blocks north from the terminal to the large stone Brewery Market or travel through the brightly colored arch that marks the beginning of the waterfront boardwalk. Once on the boardwalk, passengers looking for further advice or exploring tips can drop into the provincial visitor information office at Sackville Landing, behind the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic (1655 Lower Water St., phone 902-424-4248). It is open daily year-round. Typical city tours offer a historical perspective, allowing you to play "Soldier for a Day" at the Halifax Citadel or explore the city's many Titanic-related sites. Longer excursions might take in South Shore fishing communities such as iconic Peggy's Cove and Lunenburg (a UNESCO World Heritage site), or delve into the verdant Annapolis Valley, where fine local food and wine await. Active alternatives that focus on golfing, cycling, sea kayaking or even Tidal Bore rafting are also widely available. Shore excursions—and their prices—vary. Check with your ship's shore-excursion staff or your travel agent for additional information. Cruisers who are determined to set off on their own won't have to go far to see the sights. Pier 21 and several small galleries are mere steps from the terminal. So is the Seaport Farmers Market, the north end of which marks the start of a harborfront boardwalk lined with shops, restaurants, museums and boat-tour operations.