Milan Fashion Forces Rally Against the Gloom
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SATURDAY, JANUARY 16, 2016 In this Oct 3, 1981 file photo, 1960’s pop singers In this April 18, 2005 file photo, Jennifer Beals In this March 5, 2006 file photo, Australian actor Sonny and Cher appear during a taping of ABC’s arrives to the Film Society of Lincoln Center’s Heath Ledger, left, and actress Michelle Williams “Good Morning America” in New York. Tribute to Dustin Hoffman in New York. arrive for the 78th Academy Awards in Los Angeles. odor, Rubenstein said. What she did recol- Michelle Williams James Dean lect fondly, from her teen years at Aubazine At the 2006 Academy Awards, Sandra With Taylor Swiftian efficiency, Dean’s Abbey’s convent, was how everyone Bullock wore navy, Jennifer Lopez picked rise to teen idol started with his debut as the smelled clean. olive green, Amy Adams was in mocha troubled Cal Trask in “East of Eden.” The film In 1921, Chanel commissioned perfumer brown and Meryl Streep donned taupe. And served as 1953 counterpart to the more Ernest Beaux to create an unusual fragrance then there was Michelle Williams, on the macho stars of the previous generation - that “reflected the scent of a woman,” arm of love Heath Ledger, in a Vera Wang Humphrey Bogart, Gary Cooper, Gregory Rubenstein writes. Beaux presented her chiffon and tulle gown of many folds Peck and even Marlon Brando, just seven with 10 options. Option No. 5 had floral declared one of the best Oscar dresses of all years Dean’s senior, Rubenstein writes. Trask notes, but Beaux included an experimental time. It had delicate pleating along a low was followed in 1955 by Dean’s portrayal of chemical called aldehyde, which extended neckline and graceful folds, including a train the vulnerable, unsure Jim Stark, who wears the aroma of a perfume. On its own, alde- that oozed sensuality with every step. But it his teen heart on the sleeve of a red nylon hyde smells like soap. The No. 5 formulation was the standout color that killed, windbreaker in “Rebel Without a Cause.” It’s was Chanel’s choice and an iconic perfume Rubenstein said. Wang called it “Bahamian not easy looking that cool in a red zip wind- was born. When filmmaker Baz Luhrmann yellow” and it was perfection against her breaker, but Dean pulls it off. created a short film aimed in 2004 at re- pale skin, platinum swept-back hair and Offscreen, he was more closely associ- establishing No. 5 amid a crowded field of bright red lips. ated with Schott NYC Perfecto black designer fragrances, he cast his “Moulin “There’s something so beautiful and leather motorcycle jackets. He never wore Rouge” star Nicole Kidman as a cross wonderful and tragic about that dress,” one in a movie but Brando did and the This June 3, 1937 photo shows the Duke and Duchess between Marilyn Monroe and Grace Kelly. Rubenstein said. “They were the perfect Perfecto line of leather jackets lives on. of Windsor posing after their wedding at the Monroe once said all she wore to bed was new Hollywood couple.” The two separated “There is not a leather jacket out there that Chateau de Cande near Tours, France. Their wedding “five drops of Chanel No. 5.” in late 2007 and Ledger died in January is not stolen from that Schott jacket,” is included in a new book, “The Looks of Love: 50 2008 of an accidental drug overdose. Rubenstein said. — AP Moments in Fashion that Inspired Romance. Milan fashion forces rally against the gloom names like Armani, Dolce & Gabbana and Prada complemented by a handful of international brands, including Britain’s Vivienne Westwood. Norwegian designer Peter Dundas’ eagerly awaited first menswear collection since his return to Roberto Cavalli will get proceedings under way. Along with the dampening effect of the threat of terror attacks, factors such as economic sanctions on Russia and uncer- tainty in China and other emerging markets have helped to make it a difficult year for sellers of upmarket menswear. “In a Models present creations for fashion house Giorgio conjunctural context that was globally favorable but still too Armani during the women Spring / Summer 2016 Milan’s fluctuating and uncertain, Italian menswear sales should register Fashion Week on Sept 28, 2015 in Milan. — AFP photos modest growth for the year,” said the Italian Textile Federation (SMI). With the help of the euro’s significant decline against the error attacks around the world and the recent death of dollar, the organization’s number crunchers are expecting style icon David Bowie form a gloomy backdrop for the growth of 1.8 percent to a total of nearly nine billion euros worth Twinter 2016/17 menswear shows that kicked off yesterday. of sales. That is significantly down from the 3.8 percent growth But Carlo Capasa, President of the Italian Chamber of Fashion, is SMI was predicting at the time of the Spring/Summer menswear Models present creations, part of the Giorgio Armani col- confident the big names of the fashion world will kick back with collections in June. With domestic demand weakening, export lection show, during the Fall/Winter 2015 Men’s Fashion a “dose of positive energy” over the next five days. “Fashion rep- growth is expected to slow to 2.4 percent, compared to 5.1 per- Week in Milan. resents one of the great strong points of our Western culture,” cent in 2014. Exports account for nearly two thirds of Italian Capasa told AFP. “It is a world of multiple possibilities, where the menswear sales. terms of creativity but also in terms of industry,” Marenzi said. young are welcome, can get answers and express themselves, Accessible elegance Gaetano Marzano, president of the Pitti Uomo industry event in and where the only thing that counts is your talent.” SMI President Claudio Marenzi said another year of modest Florence which precedes the Milan shows, said his main hope More than 40 catwalk shows are scheduled for the latest growth (2 percent) was anticipated for 2016. “Our goal has to be for 2016 was that the dollar’s recent strength against the euro mens fashion week in the Italian style capital with the big Italian maintaining the global dominance of Italian fashion, not only in would be sustained. — AFP.