THE WORLD OF ANNA SUI The World of Anna Sui is a Fashion and Textile Museum exhibition Image ©Joshua Jordon ROCKSTAR & HIPPIE ‘I guess I’m a rock chick at heart.’ Referred to by journalist Hilary Alexander as the ‘Janis Joplin of fashion’, Anna Sui has always grounded her collections with a passion for rock and roll. From her early aim of designing clothes for rock stars to her enduring friendship with Anita Pallenberg – long one of Sui’s muses – the designer continually draws the aesthetic of the rock lifestyle into her collections. When creating her collections Sui always questions whether they would look good on Keith Richards and Anita. The textures, colours and patterns of the era, as seen in boutiques like Granny Takes a Trip, in London, run through Sui’s designs and exist alongside other inspirations and themes. It is her ability to weave these elements together to make something completely contemporary but true to her rock and roll sensibilities that is one of her hallmarks. Davy Crockett Ensemble (Top row) Autumn 1992 Wool herringbone Jacket and wool Union Suit by James Coviello for Anna Sui with suede cowhide Bra and Chaps Cowhide belt, brass/glass/feather choker and feather/glass/cowhide lariat by Erickson Beamon for Anna Sui; Bag, fake fur cap by James Coviello for Anna Sui; suede cowhide clogs by John Fluevog for Anna Sui Sui’s Autumn 1992 collection looked to two 1960s’ icons: Jean Shrimpton and Penelope Tree. Both of these models had been the lovers of David Bailey, whose photos were a source of inspiration for the designer. For the finale of her catwalk show, Sui merged the sensibilities of these 1960s’ models with the contrasting characters of the ‘Cavalier’ and the ‘Davy Crockett Cowboy’ (reflected in this ensemble). The linking feature is their swagger epitomised by both Tree and Shrimpton and then replicated on the catwalk in the swagger of Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista, their modern-day equivalents. Kozmik Ensemble (Middle row left) Spring 2015 Silk georgette Dress and silk jacquard Shorts Enamelled brass necklace and bracelet by Erickson Beamon for Anna Sui; elastic/plastic belt, cowhide fanny pack and boots by Ballin for Anna Sui Sui named this collection ‘Kosmik Rock Star’. Inspired by the 1960s and channelling her fashion heroes Keith Richards and Anita Pallenberg, Sui’s Spring 2015 collection referenced iconic ‘Swinging London’ boutiques such as Granny Takes a Trip and Mr Freedom. The designer also took inspiration from the psychedelic posters and work of graphics collective Hapshash and the Coloured Coat, aka Michael English and Nigel Waymouth. To accentuate the glitz and glamour, Sui accessorised her clothes with metallic lightning bolt platform shoes designed by footwear legend, Terry de Havilland. This collection seemed to reflect many of Sui’s particular passions: ‘Anna Sui’s latest collection felt like the one she was destined to design. It stitched together – literally – a grab bag of her obsessions.’ (Tim Blanks, Vogue, 14 September 2014) Embroidered Jacket Ensemble (Middle row right) Spring 2014 Embroidered linen Jacket and silk Shirt with rayon/silk Trousers Scarf by James Coviello for Anna Sui; sneakers by Emma Hope for Anna Sui Anna Sui is an avid visitor of museums where she often finds inspiration for her designs. It was her visit to the Tate’s Pre-Raphaelite retrospective that provided the creative springboard for her Spring 2014 collection, which was inspired by the 1960s’ Pre-Raphaelite revival. ‘In game- changing boutiques like Granny Takes a Trip, London’s gilded youth bought into the languor and luxury of the Pre-Raphaelite legend.’ (Tim Blanks, Vogue, 11 September 2009). Sui reflected her inspiration in her prints, choice of fabrics and intricate detail as seen here in the velvet and fine embroidery. Although the detail is intricate and the fabrics sumptuous, the outfit exudes a laid-back cool in its fluid lines and its casual accessories such as the sneakers and narrow trailing scarf. Backless Chaps Ensemble (Bottom row left) Autumn 1992 Wool jersey Cape and silk/polyester Shirt with studded suede cowhide Chaps Glass/brass choker by Erickson Beamon for Anna Sui; studded suede cowhide belt, G-string, suede cowhide boots by John Fluevog This outfit is famous for the backless chaps that Naomi Campbell wore with such swagger for the finale of Anna Sui’s Autumn 1992 catwalk show counterbalancing Linda Evangelista sporting a ‘Cavalier’ look complete with a curling feather adorning her hat. The studded fringed chaps were later worn by musician Marilyn Manson at an award ceremony. It has often been said that being at one of Sui’s shows is like being at a rock concert and her passion for music, and more importantly the style it inspires, always informs her designs:’ For a long time, my goal was to design for rock stars and people who went to rock concerts.’ ‘I quickly realised the people I knew as hippies didn’t want to do anything, that going to live on a commune wasn’t going to take them anywhere. Nice style though.’ Male Hippie (Bottom row centre-left) Spring 2014 Embroidered linen with Mongolian fake fur trim Coat with Silk chiffon Shirt and rayon silk velvet Trousers Rayon panne velvet sneakers by Emma Hope for Anna Sui This outfit is inspired by the 1960s’ rediscovery of the Pre-Raphaelites as reflected in boutiques such as Granny Takes a Trip and channelled in the romantic clothing, psychedelic posters and the interiors favoured by the rock personalities of the day. Sui loved the fact that Jimmy Page of Led Zeppelin fame, for example, had accumulated a major collection of Edward Burne-Jones (1833–98) tapestries and William Morris (1834–96) furniture. This outfit combines fabrics and textures that exude a richness and bohemianism characterising a ‘rich hippy’ look that Sui revisits frequently. As she says herself, ‘I’m a sucker for panné velvet.’ But while the outfit employs luxurious detailing, the sneakers add a note of informality even though they too are made of panne velvet. Pop-sydelic Ensemble (Bottom row centre-right) Autumn 2016 Mohair Jacket and Silk Shirt with rayon/silk devoré velvet Trousers Beaded and embroidered belt, brass/glass necklace by Erickson Beamon for Anna Sui; nylon hose by Atsugi for Anna Sui; suede/patent cowhide shoes by Ballin for Anna Sui ‘Sui sent forth gorgeous jewel-toned velvets – seemingly by the bolt – baby-doll dresses, tie-dyes and deliciously trippy jacquards.’ (Kristin Anderson, Vogue, 17 February 2016) Anna Sui coined the term ‘Pop-sydelic’ to name her Autumn 2016 collection, which mixes elements of Carnaby Street at its zenith with the work of artists such as Peter Blake and the electric ambiance of the art dealer Robert Fraser’s influential gallery. Sui then added some Edwardian notes of the sort loved by boutique brands such as Granny Takes a Trip and Mr Fish. This outfit is an intense mix of print and texture layered Sui-style with richly detailed accessories. Pop-sydelic Rock Star (Bottom row right) Autumn 2016 Fake fur polyester Coat and Rayon Shirt with Rayon/silk velvet Trousers Scarf; rayon panne velvet sneakers by Emma Hope for Anna Sui Part of Sui’s attraction to Granny Takes a Trip was the fact that the Rolling Stones used to shop there and Keith Richards was a style hero of hers: ‘I used to say that I judged my clothes by how good they’d look on Keith Richards and Anita Pallenberg.’ This outfit epitomises a ‘groovy’ rock and roll look combining print and texture to create a jewel-like intensity. The panne velvet sneakers designed by Emma Hope for Anna Sui seem to encapsulate the contradictory combination of laid-back rocker chic and ‘haute hippy’. Fringe Ensemble (On Anna Sui mannequin) Spring 2016 Silk Top and Trousers Brass/plastic necklace by Erickson Beamon for Anna Sui; nylon socks by Atsugi for Anna Sui; rayon satin covered cowhide sandals by Hush Puppies for Anna Sui Sui’s Spring 2016 collection encompassed a diverse range of influences, some of them very personal. As well as the cultural references to the artist Paul Gauguin (1848–1903) and the popular film, Mutiny on the Bounty (1962), Sui also infused her collection with personal memories of her aunt whose family was based in Polynesia and who once sent her mother a dress embroidered with small seashells. This memory inspired several dresses in the collection. Zandra Rhodes, who had also been to Tahiti and recorded the visit in her sketchbook, designed a palm leaf and seashell print for Sui, while Barbara Hulaniki of Biba fame provided illustrations for T-shirts. The colour palette, too, was a direct result of Sui’s recent Polynesian trip reflecting the colours of the exotic landscape in names such as ‘teal lagoon, hibiscus red, and pineapple yellow’. Added to this heady tropical cocktail was a nod to the nostalgia and kitsch of the 1940s’ and 1950s’ ‘sarong’ movies and the ‘tikibar’. This resulted in a playful as well as colourful collection: ‘today’s Honolulu honeys embodied all the best parts of kitsch: its colour, its humour, its play.’ (Kristin Anderson, Vogue, 16 September 2015). The intense blues of this outfit, which combines a mix of prints, reflect the tropical sea and evoke the blue of Henri Matisse’s (1869–1954) cut-outs. The halter neck and electric blue fringing reflect the idea of a sarong-style dress and the pairing with loose trousers creates an elegant ensemble. The confluence of different inspirations for this collection underlines Sui’s innate ability to combine references from both high and low culture.