• ISSN 2336-3193
• Acta Mus. Siles. Sci. Natur., 63: 111-122, 2014

DOI: 10.2478/cszma-2014-0012

Bryjarka hill in Szczawnica (Beskid Sądecki Mts, Western Carpathians,

Poland) - a natural and cultural focus

Grzegorz Vončina, Maciej Wawrzczak, Laura Betleja,
Joanna Kozik, Robert Kościelniak, Piotr Chachuła

Bryjarka hill in Szczawnica (Beskid Sądecki Mts, Western Carpathians, Poland) - a natural and

cultural focus. – Acta Mus. Siles. Sci. Natur., 63: 111-122, 2014. Abstract: The aim of this article is to present the history and the current state of Bryjarka hill, situated in Szczawnica (the Beskid Sądecki range in southern Poland) in relation to its environmental and cultural values. Another aim of this article is to show that Bryjarka hill plays an important role in the biological, geological and cultural aspects of the region. It represents cultural significance where the traces of human activities date back to medieval times.

Key words: nature values, cultural values, andesite, lichens, fungi, mosses, plants, succession, nature protection

Introduction

Bryjarka is a hill in Szczawnica, in the south-western part of the Beskid Sądecki Mts.
(Fig. 1). It is known for its picturesque view and an iron cross placed there at the beginning of

20^th century on the top of the hill (Węglarz 2011; Chrzanowska & Chrzanowski 2013).

Residents, tourists and spa guests can take a 30-40 minutes walk from Dietl square up to the top of the hill following the yellow trail. In addition to sacred and tourism values of it, there are some very interesting places in respect of nature conservation (thermophilous and rare species of plants) and cultural values (andesite quarry).
Knowledge of volcanic rock has been in focus of scientists' attention since 1832 (see
Nyka 1995). The first botanist who examined this place was Rehman (1868) in 19^th century when the hill used to be grazed by sheep and cattle. An idea to afforest Bryjarka Hill has appeared in the middle of the 20^th century (Fabijanowski 1952, 1957) and was performed on the slopes of the hill excluding both the scree below the peak and the peak itself. Since that time only a straggle of an ecological succession has been occurring on Bryjarka hill. Tall herbs and shrubs are gradually overgrowing the rocky places such as of margin of the scree, crevices and the quarry. Xerothermic organisms are vanishing as a result of this changes and their occurrence is limited in favor of a shrubs and trees.

Nature

The base material which formed Bryjarka Hill is an andesite – the igneous, volcanic rock
(Czerny & Czerny 2006; Górska-Zabielska 2011). The hill is part of volcanic intrusion extending from Kluszkowce and Czorsztyn in the west to Szlachtowa and Jaworki in the east (Birkenmajer et al. 2004). It makes Bryjarka hill its eastern arm. The mentioned intrusions of volcanic origin, whose examples can be found in the Pieniny, are dated 13.5 – 11.0 Ma (Birkenmajer & Pécskay 2000; Tokarski et al. 2006), therefore presumably the andesite from Bryjarka hill can be similarly dated.

With regard to composition, andesite belongs to amphibolic, acid type (Małkowski 1921;

Kardymowicz 1957; Małoszewski 1962). The presence of sedimentary rocks, crystalline schists and igneous rocks was found in this rock (Kardymowicz 1957). Andesite rocks from Bryjarka have grey-blue colour with a green hue (Chrzanowska & Chrzanowski 2013).

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On the south slope of Bryjarka hill there is a scree built of andesite boulders (Fig. 2).
Broken pieces of the rock have regular, sharp-edged forms which are accumulated in quite a thick layer. Similar stone runs are located on the neighbouring Jarmuta hill and they are

connected with the cover Quaternary age (Birkenmajer 1958, 1986; Bartuś & Kuś 2010).

Currently 10 mineral water sources are in use in Szczawnica resort where spa guests

mainly with respiratory problems are cured. (Miczyński et al. 1998; Pitrus 2007; GondaSoroczyńska & Przybyła 2011).

The first records of lichens occurring on the scree of Bryjarka date back to the late 19^th

century when the first three species: Lecanora symmicta, Rhizocarpon petraeum and

Xanthoparmelia conspersa were published by Rehman (1879). Several years later Boberski (1886, 1888) presented localities of 10 species, including all the species previously reported

by Rehman as well as several rare species, e.g. Blastenia ferruginea, Cladonia cariosa, Lecidella laureri and Melanohalea olivacea. Furthermore comprehensive data on lichens of

Bryjarka were provided by Zygmunt Tobolewski in the monograph devoted to the lichens of the Pieniny Mts (Tobolewski 1958). He confirmed the occurrence of 5 species recorded by Boberski and Rehman; moreover, he reported some new taxa including: Acarospora fuscata,

Diploschistes scruposus, Immersaria athroocarpa, Pertusaria corallina, Rhizocarpon lecanorinum.

In the late 1980s the lichen biota of the Beskid Sądecki Mts was studied by Lucyna Śliwa

and Bryjarka was one of the examined localities. Twenty species were recorded there,

including 7 species which had not been previously reported from this location (Śliwa 1989; Kukwa, Śliwa 2005). Unpublished data collected by Józef Kiszka, Robert Kościelniak (in the

years 1994-1995) and Joanna Kozik (2014) enlarge the list with 9 more species. Until now 45 lichen species have been reported from the andesite scree of Bryjarka (see Appendix 1). The occurrence of 10 species mentioned in the historical sources (Rehman 1879; Boberski 1886, 1888; Tobolewski 1958) has not been confirmed.
The number of lichen species growing presently on Bryjarka amounts to 35, including 6

from the red list of lichens endangered in Poland (Cieśliński et al. 2006): Montanelia

disjuncta – VU, Ramalina pollinaria – VU, Rhizocarpon badioatrum – VU, Psilolechia lucida –  LC, Umbilicaria deusta – LCand U. polyphylla – LC. Six of these species which presently occur on Bryjarka (Montanelia disjuncta, Ramalina pollinaria, Umbilicaria deusta, U. polyphylla, Xanthoparmelia conspersa and X. loxodes) are under legal protection in

Poland. Moreover, the list of the lichens of Bryjarka contains species which are rare in

Poland, e.g. Buellia aethalea, Montanelia disjuncta, Physcia subalbinea and Xanthoparmelia loxodes.

Among the mosses 4 species need special attention: Antitrichia curtipendula (Timm ex

Hedw.) Brid., Dryptodon muehlenbeckii (Schimp.) Loeske, Guembelia ovalis (Hedw.)

Müll.Hal (Szafran 1952; Jędrzejko 1970; Żarnowiec & Stebel 2011) and Pohlia cruda

(Hedw.) Lindb. Antitrichia curtipendula is a moss growing mainly on the beech and

sycamore bark and on the thin layer formed on the sandstone (Żarnowiec & Stebel 2011). The species is considered as critically endangered in the Polish Carpathians (Żarnowiec et al.

2004) and regarded as strictly protected (Anonymous 2012). Unfortunatelly, during the research the species was not found. Two other species of mosses: Dryptodon muehlenbeckii and Guembelia ovalis are associated with sunny, rocky habitats devoid of humus in class communities Grimmio-Rhacomitrietea (Stebel 2006). During the study the presence of relatively numerous individuals was found on the non-forest part of the scree. Guembelia ovalis is a very rare species in the scale of the entire Polish Carpathians, it occurs only on Wdżar in the Gorce Mts. Dryptodon muehlenbeckii is a rare species listed from scattered stations in the Polish Carpathians (Szafran 1957; Stebel 2006). Another noteworthy species of

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Fig 1: Positon of Bryjarka hill in maps of Szczawnica and Poland: A – area covered by trees and thickets, B – urban area, C – roads, D – ground ways and paths, E – the Cross, F – old quarry, G – abandoned fields and meadows, H – fen, I – scree. Black triangle is the position of Bryjarka hill on the map of Poland.

Fig 2: The south slope of Bryjarka hill – the andesite scree (Photo by M. Wawrzczak, 11 January 2014).

113 mosses is Pohlia cruda, which was found in few localities (Stebel 2006; Cykowska 2008; Stebel 2008; Stebel et al. 2010).
The andesite hill called Bryjarka in Szczawnica is characterized by the occurrence of several vascular plants unique in the scale of the Polish Carpathians. Among the plants of this group the occurrence of fern Asplenium septentrionale (L.) Hoffm. deserves special mention. It was discovered on Bryjarka for the first time by Rehman (1868) and confirmed by

subsequent researches (Knapp 1872; Wołoszczak 1895; Fabijanowski 1957; Stawowczyk

2010). At present, the plant is growing only on the rocks near the top of the hill where the Iron Cross is situated and below the east ridge of the hill. Other nearest places of its occurrence are located in the Gorce Mts (Wdżar, Twarogi) (Kornaś 1957) and a not confirmed locality in the

valley of Sopotnicki Potok (Pawłowski 1925). Another notheworthy plant is a interspecies hybrid - Asplenium xalternifolium Wulfen found by Wołoszczak (1895), which was noted by other botanists (Pawłowski 1925; Fabijanowski 1957; Stawowczyk 2010). This is an

interesting taxon whose existence depends on the presence of Asplenium septentrionale - one of the parent species. Asplenium xalternifolium is a rare species in the Polish Carpatians, it

was found only in three places (Zając & Zając 2001). Thermophilous and heliophilous

vascular plants vulnerable to extinction as a result of permanent shading grow on the nonforest rock crevices and rocks. This group includes: Digitalis grandiflora Mill., Jovibarba

hirta (L.) Opiz., Sedum maximum (L.) Hoffm., Salvia verticillata L., Potentilla recta L. of

which the first two are strictly protected species (Anonymous 2012). These thermophilous species are the components of xerothermic community which has a chance to develop only in wood-free places of its occurrence.
On the scree and in its vicinity interesting fungi were also found, including 4 protected species, endangered and rare in Poland. Verpa bohemica (Krombh) J. Schröt is a strictly protected species (Anonymous 2004) included in the red list of macrofungi in Poland

(Wojewoda, Ławrynowicz 2006) and marked with a vulnerable to extinction status (category

V). Fruiting bodies of Arrhenia spathulata (Fr.) Redhead which has endangered status (category E) has been observed on mosses covering the rocks. On the lying and decaying wood fruiting bodies of another vulnerable species (category V) Mycena renati Quél were found. The sporocarps of Xylaria filiformis (Alb. & Schwein.) Fr. have been also observed – the ascomycetes which grows on the tree petioles, known only from a few stations in Poland.
Some identified species of fungi were observed in the ecotone zone between the forest and the scree. Verpa bohemica and Arrhenia spathulata prefer this type of conditions and therefore the greater area occupied by a stone run, the longer transition zone between two ecosystems. Other species of fungi grow well in the woods.
During the visit on Bryjarka’s stone run, protected reptiles were found: grass snake

Natrix natrix L., European viper Vipera berus L., slow worm Anguis fragilis L. and sand lizard Lacerta agilis L.

Cultural

Andesite as a raw material was already used in Paleolithic. Tools made of it were found in stations located on the territory of today’s Slovakia (Bárta 1969, 1979). Also in the period of Neolithic stone tools used to be made using andesite (Hovorka & Soják 1997; Soják 2001). In more recent times this rock was used to build of stone pavements, e.g. in Krakow (Rajchel 2008), in the interwar period andesite was used as an aggregate for road construction (Goetel 1926; Nestorowicz 1924).
In the southern slope of the hill a closed andesite quarry is located (Fig. 3). There was a project to use the material from Bryjarka for constructing roads (Nestorowicz 1924); however, it has never been performed. Locals have been using the quarry as a place of extraction of raw material to build their own houses, foundation of buildings and other small walls.

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Fig 3: The south slope of Bryjarka hill – the old quarry (Photo by M. Wawrzczak, 30 December 2013). Fig 4: The west slope of Bryjarka hill – the spring fen (Photo by M. Wawrzczak, 11 January 2014).

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Technology sourcing the andesite from the quarry was similar to the one used in other areas (Lew 1967). People used some basic tools such as hammers, pickaxes, crowbars and then transported the material using a cart or sleigh in winter.
The andesite was probably extracted in 19^th and early of 20^th century and now is an example of the local mining skills. The current state of the quarry is shown as separated boulders and crevices in the raw material.
On the western side of the hill there is a spring fen (peat bog follows Pawlikowa 1965)
(Fig. 4). It was examined in 1960s century (Pawlikowa 1965). The fen on Bryjarka is one of few mines in this area which has been explored by palynologists (Hrynowiecka-Chmielewska 2009). For example, thanks to this peat bog we can reconstruct the environment at Late Glacial in the western part of the Carpathians (Rydlewski, Valde-Nowak 1981). According to a pollen diagram, first human setllemnet is correlated with Sub-atlantic period (Pawlikowa 1965), which is very important for Szczawnica region.
This is probably a sign of deforestation carried out in this part of the Beskid Sądecki Mts
(medieval times?). It is worth noting that there were no woods on Bryjarka till 20^th century (Fig. 5). The existing landscape of the hill is significantly different from the former one even, after the Second World War. Ancient sites used for agricultural purposes and breeding have disappeared. Nowadays, there are lots of trees and no signs of former human activity, excepting tourism (Fig. 6).
Old farmlands gradually running wild and consequent forest communities succession is characteristic of this place (Dec et al. 2009). A similar process of landscape transformation is also observed in other mountain regions such as Sromowce Niżne (Forczek-Brataniec 2010).
Originally Szczawnica was an agricultural village. For this reason Bryjarka hill was used for agricultural purposes related to cultivation and pasturage. The lower parts of the hill were intended for farming, while the higher parts were grazed by domestic animals, especially cows (Czarnecka, Rusiecki 1955). Before the afforestation of the southern slope of the hill, which was already proposed before the Second World War (Matras 1939), there were growing shrubs of the grey alder Alnus incana (L.) Moench and common hazel Corylus avellana L. The process of afforestation was carried out in the 1950s in order to protect the mineral water sources (Fabijanowski 1952, 1957). Rapid expansion of these shrubs was caused by extensive use of the land through cutting down trees and, consequently, grazing, which made it impossible for forest-forming species to return and reconstruct forests.
The following species were recommended for planting: silver birch Betula pendula Roth,
Scots pine Pinus sylvestris L. (ecotype „wdziarowa” pine), Polish larch Larix decidua subsp. polonica (Racib.) Domin and common aspen Populus tremula L. (Fabijanowski 1952, 1957).

Conclusions

The andesite rocks in the vicinity of the Pieniny Mts (Bryjarka, Wdżar, Jarmuty) have

long been attracting attention because of their distinctiveness. They are characterised by a specific biodiversity of lichens compared with the Carpathians flysch or the Pieniny Mts

limestone (cf. Tobolewski 1958; Śliwa 1989; Czarnota 2010). As long as a century ago they

were studied by lichenologists working in this area. Among the species reported in the past from the scree of Bryjarka there is a considerable number of lichens which have not been confirmed recently. They include Blastenia ferruginea (now extinct in Poland), as well as

some species rare in Poland, (e.g. Cladonia cariosa, Immersaria athroocarpa, Rhizocarpon petraeum) and Melanohalea olivacea (now critically endangered in Poland).

The absence of them may suggest that further, more detailed research is needed to find them or it may be due to unfavourable changes taking place on the scree of Bryjarka, e.g. progressive succession and trampling of the habitats. It seems justified to maintain these

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Fig 5: The view of eastern site of Bryjarka hill, the beginning of the 20^th century (Awit Szubert 1907, private

collection of Władysław Jama from Szczawnica).

Fig 6: The view of eastern site of Bryjarka hill, the beginning of the 21^st century (Photo by M. Wawrzczak, 13 April 2014).

117 habitats, which are very rare in the Carpathians, and to protect them against overgrowing as they contribute to lichen biodiversity of the Carpathians. Moreover, the scree of Bryjarka is a potential habitat for numerous species endangered in Poland which used to grow here in the

past (Melanohalea olivacea, Pertusaria corallina, Rhizocarpon lecanorinum, R. petraeum),

those which occur on corresponding substrate, e.g. Wdżar Mt. (e.g. Acarospora badiofusca,

Cladonia crispata, Rhizocarpon alpicola), or protected lichens from the genus Peltigera.

The overgrowing andesite scree is a valuable habitat for plants and animals, which persist only by the fact that the trees and shrubs have not completely covered the rocky station. It seems that the edges of the stone run (transitional zone between scree and forest) is richer than the scree, coverage of rock plants is significantly higher, but it is made of common species. Moreover, compact undergrowth leads to the formation of a humus layer which eliminates the species growing directly on the rocks (eutrophication of the edge of the scree indicates the presence of the nitrophilous species common nettle Urtica dioica).
The foregoing suggests that every effort should be made to stop the progressive succession in order to preserve the suitable habitats for the existence of plants species representing the uniqueness of the Bryjarka hill flora. Thus, bearing in mind preferences of rare xerothermic plants adapted to living conditions of high temperature and strong sunlight any further overgrowing of the described scree should be stopped. A better way to accomplish this task is elimination of the trees and shrubs growing on the boulder field and it edges in the near future.

Acknowledgements: Authors are grateful to dr hab. Adam Stebel (Medical University of Silesia in Katowice) for confirming proper identification of mosses found during the research. The English version of the text was checked by Andrzej Kowalski (Pieniny National Park).

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