Stormrider Surf Guide World Championship Tour Event Locations 2019

9 This ebook contains 11 surf zones 10 8 12 selected from 300+ included in 11 The World Stormrider Surf Guide 3 7 5 GET your copy here 4 1 6 2

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Gold Coast Great Ocean Bali Margaret Rio de St Francis Tahiti Surf Ranch Landes Peniche Maui Oahu Road River Janeiro Bay Home

Gold Coast Queensland, Australia eBooks

Quiksilver Gold Coast Pro Queensland’s Gold Coast is one of the Men’s & Women’s: 3rd – 13th April most intense surf zones in the world, Venues: Snapper Rocks; Kirra combining 40km of legendary spots with a huge, hungry surf population. It’s the most visited stretch of coastline in Australia, but don’t be misled by the Summary name ‘Surfer’s Paradise’, as the heart of + World-class right points this zone is dominated by skyscrapers, These Stormrider Surf Guide eBooks cover this + subtropical climate not palm trees and the hordes of region – CLICK TO BUY + Flat day entertainment tourists rule out anything approaching + Inexpensive deserted. However, year-round warm temperatures, a raging nightlife and – Super crowded surf arena endlessly long, right pointbreaks – Constant drop-ins tempt southerners and foreigners alike – Few lefts to try their luck in Australia’s most 1– Generally small waves competitive line-ups. Home Gold Coast

Characteristics

SIZE SWELL BOTTOM TYPE TIDE WIND w5 B h d o 6 nE-S SAND RIGHT ALL W POINT Description Snapper Rocks has had a personality make-over ever since the Tweed Sand Bypassing Project started pumping sand northwards and is no longer second fiddle to Kirra when it comes to dredgy barrels. It starts from behind the rock, where just a few locals have dialled the launch into a square, thick-lipped pit before the backwash hits and twists the barrel just as it emerges out into the sandy expanses of what has been dubbed the Superbank. A frothing pack of rippers and longboarders then pounce on anything that moves, slashing and mainly burning any surfer perceived to be weak or undeserving. It then opens up to two parts wall one part barrel as it progresses 200m down towards the next rocks at Little Marley, before traversing Rainbow Bay for a further 400m of cruise and crack. E-SE provides the ideal swell direction, since too much S will by-pass the point, losing lots of size and shouldering off into deeper water, while NE will angle in and close-out whole sections of the sandbar and even blow holes in it. Handles S winds well n

o and breaks through the tide, but the sweeping current is always there to drain your paddling power. Snapper Rocks nn macki magicseaweed forecast al Home Gold Coast

Characteristics

SIZE SWELL BOTTOM TYPE TIDE WIND w5 B h d o 6 nE-S SAND RIGHT ALL W POINT

Description Kirra is Australia’s and probably the world’s best righthand point that breaks over sand. Air drops into various tube sections, which seem to suck-out below sea level, adding sand to the already ridiculously powerful and thick lips. Super long, slabby sections need breakneck speed to negotiate while praying the inevitable drop-in wont happen on the deepest tube of your life. It all depends on the constantly changing sand and breaks at about a third to a half the size of the prevailing swell. Big, solid SE groundswell is the preferred element, while E and even NE cyclone swells can also produce epic barrels if the sand is right. The sweep down the point is legendary, so many run back up the point d after every ride. iel h s Kirra rew

nd magicseaweed forecast a Home Gold Coast Other Breaks Even though Duranbah is technically in New South mainly because when the points are sleeping, D-Bah will a barrel, it lazily peels for hundreds of metres, just asking leg-aching ride to the shorey shut-downs, it’s a jog back up Wales, it has become one of the main surfing focal points have thumping little A-frame wedges, somewhere along its to be ripped to pieces. It is such an accommodating wave the point and over the slippery boulders before dashing for of the “Goldie”. The rivermouth jetties have helped form length. Refraction off the breakwall helps to focus power on that all types of surfcraft tackle it making the crowds of the outside against the rip that drags you back down the powerful wedging peaks that provide ample tube time at the peak and it will pick up any swell from NE around to S. longboards, SUP and even kiteboarders a bit daunting. Best point. When the rest of the coast is closed-out, Burleigh will one of the world’s finest beachbreaks. Crowds can be insane, Huge local crew dominate the line-up, so you might want to with a SE swell up to double-overhead, SW wind and lower, still be holding and barrel-hungry chargers will paddle out check some of the other beaches south of the river for less outgoing tides to hold up the walls across the rivermouth. from the Tallebudgera rivermouth to the south, where there South stressful sessions. Snapper Rocks (see Venue) has had a The beaches south and north of the Alley through to Palm are more waves. Cyclone swells can blow holes in the set-up Stradbroke Island Nerang personality make-over ever since the Tweed Sand Bypassing Beach hold plenty of less-crowded peaks. Burleigh Heads and it’s rare for all four sections (Sharkies, The Cove, The Head w3h5The Spit Project started pumping sand northwards. The tree-lined can be so awesome when the swell has S in it and the wind Point and Rockbreak) to link-up. It’s not as long as Kirra and Parkwood Greenmount Point provides a curve of boulders for the is SW offshore, shaping up thick, dredging barrels breaking not quite as crowded, but unfortunately it’s more localised. Labrador sand to stick to, resulting in some long easy rights and a bit over sand in front of a basalt boulder shoreline. After a long, The Miami stretch used to be a bit of a quiet spot away Main Beach of protection from the dreaded SE winds. Since the advent Southport of the Superbank, Greenmount and the adjacent Coolangatta Beach have been swallowed by sand and tacked onto the d Molendinar

Snapper, Rainbow endless line-up. It still shows some of its iel Ashmore w3htNarrowneck longboarding heritage and can be less sucky than further up h s

Nerang Surfers q3h5Surfers Paradise the line, but then again it can churn off relentlessly towards Paradise Big Groyne Kirra (see Venue) if it’s in the right mood. rew Gold Coast Handles more NE in the swell, which breaks up the sections q3h5Broadbeach and any S wind. The Alley at Currumbin has very long nd a Broadbeach rights, well sheltered from the strongest SE winds. Rarely Merrimac

Mermaid Waters

w3h5 Miami Miami e5\dBurleigh Heads

Burleigh Heads e5hfCurrumbin Alley

QUEENSLAND Palm Beach

Currumbin w5hdKirra 100 Tugun w3hd 20 Greenmount 0 3 0 w4hd 0 Snapper Rocks Bilinga q4hsDuranbah (D-Bah) Gold Kirra Coolangatta Bally Mont NSW Coast 488 m Airport Tweed Currumbin Alley Heads Home Gold Coast Travel Info Swell and Wind – December- dry season (May-October) when Hazards and Hassles – The most March is tropical cyclone season in nights can get a little bit chilly, so likely problems are drop-ins and the Coral Sea, but most NE swells you may need a 2mm steamer in the collisions at zooed-out spots. You are usually small with short period. early morning. Rest of the year it’s stand more chances being attacked During this time E swells are far boardshorts, or a shorty for the early by an aggro local, than a shark! NE more common and SE to even S swells mornings. winds bring in the nasty bluebottle still arrive with greater height and jellyfish. The skin cancer rate is very period. Statistically speaking, March Lodging and Food – Coolangatta high. Use more than just sunscreen. to July will have the biggest average Sands Backpackers (fr $23). Komune size, more groundswell and mainly is a high-rise hostel (fr $24). Rainbow Handy Hints – There are dozens SE winds. The best SW winds often Bay Resort from ($95/n/triple). Varied of surf shops stocking all the gear blow from May to August. September- international menus from $15. at bargain prices. The Aussie beer December sees lots of N winds mess up culture leads to some serious nights the NE-facing coastline. As a general Nature and Culture – out, but it’s still crowded for the dawn rule the pointbreaks crank from low- Entertainment includes WhiteWater patrol. Cheap food and drink at RSL

d mid. Tidal range can reach 2m. World, Sea World, Movie World, Clubs. Queensland has a reputation Dreamworld, Wet ‘n’ Wild, Cableski, as the ‘Police State’, with harsh drink iel

h Weather – November to April is the Currumbin Sanctuary and Fleays driving penalties and draconian s ‘wet’ season with some rainy days and Wildlife Pk. Also more than happy cannabis laws. Avoid where possible! warm temperatures. Cyclones usually to separate you from your money is

rew only affect northern Queensland. Jupiters Casino. There is some mega

Burleigh Heads nd It stays pleasant throughout the nightlife action on Orchid Avenue. a

from the crowds, but these days nowhere is empty along the real lucky dip as to whether you have a good session or not. you can take a look at The Spit, which isn’t quite as developed STATISTICS J F M A M J J A S O N D SWELL Goldie. Beat the wind by getting up early and avoid high tide All tides up to 6ft. Parking can be tricky and the backdrop of as the rest of this coast, receives plenty of swell and has tons of Direction U U H H H U when the waves go slack and the outside/inside channel cuts hi-rise hotels, casinos and swanky apartment buildings is a empty peaks stretching as far as Main Beach. The main event Size (ft) 4-5 4-5 2-3 2 2-3 3 length of ride. Broadbeach is a continuation of the Surfers rare one for Australian waters. Narrowneck used to be off is usually a left breaking between the Southport Seaway jetty WI

ND Direction Paradise theme with plenty of fun beachbreaks to choose the surfer’s radar until an artificial reef was built to create and the Spit sand-pumping jetty, which provides plenty of raw Force F4 F4 F4 F4 F4 F4

from, which range from straight-handers to long workable an erosion protection solution to prevent the beach being materials for nice banks, both here and over the rivermouth at WATER Wetsuit walls. Occasionally fires off some good barrels at lower tides inundated during storm swells. While this part of the project South Stradbroke Island. Its other fine quality is being able to 1 1 2 2 2 1 and picks up NE swells better than SE, which shows better is considered to have worked, the bonus surfing wave has been tame the NE sea breezes better than any Goldy spot. The Spit Temp/ºC 26 25 23 21 22 24

further north. This whole stretch will close-out when the attracting plenty of takers since the sandbags trip up a decent is popular with tourists and beginners because there is less WEAT Rainfall/mm 185 170 114 66 72 118 wave faces exceed 6-8ft, which is when all the pointbreaks right on SE swells and a left in NE’ers. ‘Naz’ is not the most hassling and the waves are generally slopey and manageable days/mth 13 13 9 7 8 10 H will be working. Surfers Paradise itself is more dedicated exciting wave but can provide more shape on junky, onshore when small. Can get hollow in a stronger, moderate swell, ER Min temp/ºC 20 18 12 9 14 18 to swimmers, so don’t surf between the flags as the lifeguards days than the long expanses of Surfers Paradise beaches but it closes-out as it exceeds 6-8ft faces, plus the currents Max temp/ºC 28 27 22 21 24 28 don’t have a sense of humour. In-between the patrolled areas stretching south. On its good days, there’s pits to be found and can ramp up quickly. The northern jetty is the most easily there are various peaks, sometimes slow and mushy, perfect a bit of extra power over the reef, plus a shorey section that accessible of the South Straddie breaks and the trim peaks for beginners and sometimes sucky and walled up with hollow bodyboarders like. Gets crowded as it is the first stop from get insanely crowded as many dash across the channel that is bits, often in summer NE swells, when the crowds make it a Brisbane and is a regular local contest site. From Sea World famous for as much shark traffic as boat traffic. Home

Great OceanVictoria, Road Australia eBooks

Rip Curl Pro – Bells Beach Victoria is the southern extent of the Australian Men’s & Women’s: 17th – 27th April mainland, hemmed in by the angry waters of Venues: Bells Beach; Winkipop Bass Strait and the Tasman Sea, but perfectly situated to receive the mountainous swells from the Southern Ocean. The Great Ocean Road twists torturously atop cliffs overlooking an eroded coast Summary of limestone cliffs, sea stacks and caves, where a + Consistent swell plethora of beach, reef and pointbreaks unload in These Stormrider Surf Guide eBooks cover this + Dominant offshore winds a pristine and uncrowded environment. Since the region – CLICK TO BUY + Big-wave right points early 60’s, Torquay and Bells Beach have become a + Spectacular scenery surfing epicentre, being home to leading surfwear manufacturers, Quiksilver and Rip Curl, plus the – Unpredictable weather site of the longest running contest and the first – Cool water year-round Surfing Recreation Reserve on the planet. This – Summer flat spells 340km scenic drive west of Melbourne, is a surfer’s – Crowded breaks dream as it passes the many right pointbreaks that 2line both sides of Cape Otway. Home Great Ocean Road

Bells Beach Characteristics SIZE SWELL BOTTOM TYPE TIDE WIND e7  j d o 3 SE-SW ROCK RIGHT ALL nW LEDGE POINT Description A classic and consistent right point that breaks on almost any tide, any wind and any decent swell from SE-SW. It’s usually broken into 3 sections, starting outside at Rincon, leading into Bells Bowl and finishing in the beachbreak. Power is always associated with this wave and few escape the flogging of an outside set on the head and gruelling paddle-outs as it grows beyond double overhead. When small it is playful and ripable, offering endless carve and cutback corners along a lengthy platform reef that is prone to some long, unmakeable sections. Best in wrapping SW swell and NW winds, but will still have takers in ugly onshore conditions. If the crazy crowd is too much, on the headland to the south there are less intimidating rights at Centreside plus some real decent lefts in SE swells and higher tides at Southside. n a y r

magicseaweed forecast steve Home Great Ocean Road

Characteristics

SIZE SWELL BOTTOM TYPE TIDE WIND w6  l d [ 3 S-W unEVEN RIGHT nOT nW REEF POINT LOW

Description A long, fast and hollow pointbreak that can handle solid swells over the shallow reef. Higher tides, 6-8ft and NW winds will create warp speed walls with impossibly long, makeable barrel sections that the locals hunt and slay with consummate ease. It breaks up into sections along the 400-odd- meters of rocky shelf and paddling against the constant sweep of the rip is a given. n a y r Winkipop

magicseaweed forecast steve Home Great Ocean Road Other Breaks The western side of Cape Otway picks up all the available swell large, stormy conditions. Around the headland, Marengo Barwon Ocean Heads Grove so if it’s small then the powerful beachbreaks of Johanna offers a brace of more exposed reefs, a righthand point and Surfcoast Highway Point Lonsdale will be working. The sand is anchored by various bits of reef some changeable, small swell beachbreak. Kennett River Hwy1 - Princes Highway Torquay q2h5 and there’s a decent left at the eastern headland. Crowded in will have clean rivermouth peaks in S swells, which favour the Raffs summer with the Torquay crew, it can be a punishing paddle- rights running up the beach. Kennett Point is reliably fun in Colac q5k513th Beach 200 100 out and has a habit of dramatically increasing in size without smaller swells at lower tides, offering a mixture of easy walls w4jg warning. On the east side of Cape Otway is Apollo Bay, and peeling sections for most abilities. Wye River also has Anglesea Point Impossible where there is a right off the harbour breakwall and outside both some average rivermouth beachies and an option of a e5lt Aireys Inlet Point Addis jetty that can handle moderate size and will line up a bit better righthand point called Baldy, that relies on transient sand and Fairhaven y5hdPoint Roadnight with some E in the swell at lower tides. There are also some lower tides to make it a glorious peeler for hundreds of meters. q3h5Fairhaven nicely protected beachies perfect for beginners and escaping When the SW wind is howling and the swell is pumping, most Gellibrand Forrest t5;g Lorne Cathedral Rock e5;d 700 Lorne Point n

a BA S S S T R A I T

y Beech 600 Wye River

r Forest

500 400 Kennett River r3h5 300 Wye River Lavers Hill e2;5 Ocean Road Kennett River Great steve Skenes Creek 200 Apollo Bay Johanna Glenaire Marengo e4;sApollo Bay

100

Cape usually favour beginner-friendly, crumbling walls, but can Otway occasionally throw up much better. Needs some angle in the w4;5 Johanna swell to triangulate. Anglesea is a typical coastal town that has some decent beachbreaks at Main Beach for the hordes of groms and fun rights at Point Roadnight for the mellow surfers head for the protection of Lorne Point and hope they mal-riding dads. Needs a huge S-SE to be any good since it is luck into one of the rare, magical days when the rights are nestled behind a long rocky finger, allowing the sand to build hissing and barrelling for anything up to 500m all the way up on the lee side and providing protection from SW-W winds. into the crumbly beachbreaks. Prefers a major SE swell, any W Both right and lefthanders break off the scraggly reef at Point in the wind and low tide. Cathedral Rock needs a big SW or Addis with the lefthanders getting the nod if the SE swell is straight S swell to kick-start the sought after rights that speed strong enough to produce some barrels. Otherwise it is a fairly down the knobbly reef. After the jacking take-off it stutters tame affair offering lumbering walls and little else for the through barrel sections then fatter walls as it draws breath, intermediates avoiding the gladiatorial line-ups up the road. before rifling off again along the reef. Experienced surfers Bells Beach (see venue) is Victoria’s most famous surf spot. only since getting caught inside is no fun and there’s a local Next door is Winkipop (see venue). Boobs has a rare, Johanna pecking order. Fairhaven offers due south-facing beachbreaks tubey left off the peak if the wind isn’t getting into it. It’s a that scoop up the swell onto vastly varying sandbanks, that long walk round the cliffs from the car parks, keeping crowds Home Great Ocean Road Travel Info Swell and Wind – The southwest- only 680mm. The weather is very National Park, plus the Australian facing coast can get huge, with S-W changeable. Avoid June-Aug, if you’re National Surf Museum in Torquay. Go swells up to 15ft-20ft possible, which not into a cold trip. The changeover hiking around Point Addis. The Tower then wrap around Cape Otway to the seasons can be pleasant, even though Hill Wildlife Sanctuary or Anglesea SE-facing coastline, where the swells you still have to be prepared for cooler Golf Course are great for kangaroo become much cleaner and orderly. spells and gusty winds. Summers, spotting. The pub is a way of life in Oz, While they lose some size, places like (Dec to Feb), are fairly dry and warm, and Victoria is home to the country’s Bells will still regularly get triple averaging 22°C (72°F). Summer water favourite beers. overhead and bigger. Dominant SW-W temps rarely get over 20°C (68°F) and winds will be cross/offshore on this winters dip down to 13°C (55°F). A 4/3 Hazards and Hassles – Aside side blowing into plenty of 2-15ft mm steamer for winter and a 3/2mm from reef rubs, riptides and crowds, swells. Tasmania blocks Victoria from or springy for summer. there is not much to worry about. The

d SE groundswells. Due S swells tend shark factor is low, but drownings to be better for a lot of the SE-facing Lodging and Food – Plenty of are common in the big waves on the iel

h spots. Westerly winds dominate, cheap backpacker accommodation at western side. s tending more SW in summer and around $25-50/p/n (Bells Beach and NW in winter. Tidal range is usually Anglesea Backpackers). Motels start Handy Hints – Torquay is full rew around 1.8m and the pushing tide can from $75/p/n. Peppers The Sands of surf shops from the big Rip Curl

Torquay nd increase the wave size and quality. resort in Torquay from 140/p/n. A good boutique to core shop Strapper Surf. a basic meal is $25. Every accessory under the sun and Weather – South Victoria has shortboards from $550. down a bit. Steps has a few moods and once the rapid drop the coolest weather in mainland Nature and Culture – Visit the B100 take-off is negotiated, it will wall and quite often stay overfed Australia, but not the wettest, with Twelve Apostles and the Cape Otway till the channel. This makes it a favourite with cruisers, while Torquay e2;5 further out is the more challenging Evo’s, which shifts across C134 Fishos the shallow shelf at speed, squeezing off the odd barrel, or check the inside reef Sparrows, another potential barrel-ride and every other type of craft. S wind protection is afforded in small to medium SW swells and N winds. All three breaks at Fishos during major swells or Point Impossible has B100 need mid to high tides to make them break and or safe. Bird further cruisey rights over flat reefs. Bancoora’s offshore STATISTICS J F M A M J J A S O N D SWELL C132 Rock is a short, sucky, right reef, revered by the dedicated reef occasionally sees quality rights on a humping SE swell Direction       Jan Juc w2;5Backbeach locals that dominate the tiny take-off zone. It jacks up quickly and N wind combo. 13th Beach stretches for over 6kms and Size (ft) 4 4-5 5-6 6-7 5-6 4 w2h5Jan Juc WI

and rifles off fast so only the skilled will get a wave off the faces into the SW swell stream. Furthest west is Turd Rock, ND Direction e4jgBird Rock pack that is guaranteed when a clean, moderate SW swell hits. a righthand point close to the sewage pumping station that Force F4 F4 F4 F4-F5 F4-F5 F4

e4jgSteps Jan Juc, a decent, but permanently crowded beachbreak, most people think is shit. Next is Beacons which holds proper WATER Wetsuit C132 e3lgEvo’s is best avoided at high tide. Packs coagulate around the car A-frames that hiss over the sandbars when it’s on during a 3 3 3 5 5 3 Bells Beach e3ltBoobs parks so walking can help, but it is the busiest spot on the SW swell, N wind day. The peaks then stretch all the way up Temp/ºC 18 19 16 13 14 16

coast. When the sand triangulates, it provides some tasty lips to Barwon Heads where The Hole is a rocky set of reefs and WEAT e6ldWinkipop Rainfall/mm 37 66 74 92 86 60 and ramps to launch from. Torquay is Victoria’s surfing capital Raffs is a gentle beachbreak made for beginners, loggers, days/mth 8 12 16 20 16 13 e7jdBells Beach H and Backbeach tames the SW swell and orders it into nice, SUP’ers and those of a laid-back disposition. Point Lonsdale, ER Min temp/ºC 14 13 9 8 9 12 easy rollin’ rides for the hordes of beginners, longboarders an all-round beachbreak, completes the picture. Max temp/ºC 24 21 16 14 16 21 Home

East Bali Indonesia eBooks

Bali Pro Bali is “The island of 1000 temples” which the locals Men’s & Women’s: 13th – 25th May believe is blessed by the gods. The gods certainly Venue: Keramas have blessed the local surfers, because they live in a perfect, tropical surf paradise. Although 40 years of booming tourism development has drastically transformed the landscape and the line-ups, Bali Summary remains an essential surfing experience. There + Many world-class spots is no denying the quality and quantity of its surf, + Wet & dry season waves when SW swells wrap consistent lines around + Beginner and expert spots the Bukit Peninsula into straight offshore winds, + Unique Balinese culture creating a list of world-class lefts, including + Wild night-life Uluwatu, Padang Padang, Bingin and Kuta Reef. Add to these the quality beachbreaks of Kuta and – Very crowded waves Legian, plus the east side rights of Nusa Dua, Sanur – Traffic jams and Keramas or Shipwrecks and Lacerations on Nusa Lembongan, then it becomes obvious that These Stormrider Surf – Dangerous driving Guide eBooks cover this – Touts and hustlers Bali has one of the highest concentration of quality region – CLICK TO BUY 3– Increasing pollution waves on the planet. Home East Bali

Characteristics

SIZE SWELL BOTTOM TYPE TIDE WIND w5  / g o 3 S-SW dEAD RIGHT ALL nW CORAL REEF Description Keramas is the jet-set plaything and latest pro contest hang-out as its reputation for barrels and high octane performance ramps grows. Picks up plenty of east coast swell and focuses it on a jagged lava reef that opens up straight from the drop then just asks to be bashed before the wave closes-out on the inside. Surprisingly consistent and increasingly crowded for the dawn glass sessions. Plenty of current when it gets bigger, always crowded and some bad vibes from over- zealous ex-pats and local surf guides. o nn va Keramas erico d magicseaweed forecast fe Home East Bali

Pekutatan Seraya Timur Seraya Barat Penggragoan Tumbu w4\c Other BreaksSubagan Medewi Selemadeg Selumbung Pertima Bejera Antosari Ulakan Nyuhtebel Bug Bug Ubud Antap Berembeng Antiga Padang w5;t Tabanan Banjarangkan Dawan Padangbai e2ld Balian Mengwi Gianyar Bai Beraban Kendiri Blahbatu Cucukan w3;gLebih w5/g Laut Bali Keramas Sukawati w3.t Canggu w2h5Purnama Playgrounds Batubulan e4.gLacerations Kerobokan e3lgKetewel Denpasar e4.gShipwrecks w2h5Padang Galak Nusa Lembongan y6.g Jungutbatu Sampelah Sanur Toyapakeh Seminyak Sanur e4.g Hawan Legian Tanjung Sari Nusa Sakti e5.g Ceningan Hyatt Reef Klumbuh Suana Kuta N U S A P E N I DA ter w6/tSerangan h Benoa Harbour e4.b Cahing Jimbaran Ceningan ric

Tanglad n Benoa Tanjung Sari Bukit Peninsula

Sekartaji jaso Ungasan

mercilessly over a sharp slab of coral and pinwheels at mach for the improvers trying to get some waves away from the one for hundreds of meters, before closing out on the inside crowds. Won’t handle much above head high and needs some dry reef. Unfortunately, Sanur Reef needs a serious swell N in the wet season wind. The east coast reefs switch to a Serangan aka Turtle Island, is a wet-season, east-facing, shares similarities with Nusa Dua, but the hap-hazard, rip to even begin breaking and wont get classic until it is well lava base at Ketewel and are every bit as intimidating as crowd-pleaser that has something for everyone. Various torn peaks are even hollower. Further inside, rapid, walled overhead, meaning Nusa Dua will be twice as big. These huge the coral. Spacious, angular pits unfold over an uneven base lefts and rights peak up and pitch along a coral arc, ranging rides guarantee tube-time as they suck over the shallower swell conditions are rarer in the rainy season window when that demands high tide to be safe enough to challenge. Add from softer shoulders to sucky shacks at all stages of the tide. part of the reef. Nasty when big, it’s an advanced break and it’s offshore all day, so consistency drops further. On smaller in the southerly aspect and it means that morning glass and It’s strange to surf near a massive rock jetty in Bali, but it a constant paddle against the current, until it backs off at days at lower tides, it breaks up into funnelling walls and spring highs are the best option, so it’s not too consistent. has little affect on the waves, which hit the nicely oriented dead high. Tanjung Sari, another hotel namesake line-up, long shut-down sections, but with more swell and tide, barrel Purnama sits in a bucolic Bali backdrop of rice paddies and SE reef. Picks up plenty of swell and breeze, drawing the where a big bend in the reef and a shallow channel provide predictability and length of ride improves dramatically. The traditional houses, adding to the laid-back persona of this crowds when the winds go W. Chilled out warung scene after both rights and lefts on either side. The rights can be picture inside section is often unmakeable on all but the biggest tides 2.5km strip of glinting lava particles. The sand will always clearing the security check to get on the island. In front of the perfect and peel for a good few hundred meters, providing and biggest days of the year and even then it will claim many be hotter than the average beach peaks that prefer mid tides upmarket hotel strip, Hyatt Reef is where tourists play in the tide is lower and a good-sized S-SW swell has already victims. To say it is crowded is an understatement and some and morning glass, but a scout of the reefs to the south may the calm waters of the lagoon on all sorts of craft and surfers awoken Sanur. Fast and sectiony is the vibe with scant localism is likely. Padang Galak is a foot-burning black yield some punchy rights. Keramas (see venue). Lebih‘s make the long trek by boat out to the barrier reef for energetic coral cover, so each wave is a bit of a lottery. The lefts are sand beachbreak that flips from low tide mushy shoulders lava reef benefits from sand deposition courtesy of the nearby righthanders that rumble off the furthest point. There’s two easier, with a nice cover-up section before a short wall to the to dredging shore-dump at high tide. Mid tide may conjure rivermouth. Like many east coast spots, S swell has a direct sections separated by a big hole in the reef and the outside channel. Sanur is the east coast super-right that guillotines up something in-between and glassy mornings can be fun angle on the coast and early morning land breezes keep it Home East Bali Travel Info Swell and Wind – Bali benefits and stifling humidity averaging at Kuta nightlife is a legendary, hedonistic from an almost endless supply of 85%. Water temps are usually a tepid melting pot of nightclubs and parties Southern Ocean groundswell. These 28°C (82°F), but can dip to 25ºC fuelled by cheap(ish) alcohol. swells range from 3-12ft (1-4m), with (77ºF). Surfing in a white T-shirt can averages around 5ft @ 11secs from aid cooling while a light vest may add Hazards and Hassles – Mosquitos Nov-March, then upping to 7-8ft @ a thin veneer of protection against the carry dengue fever, Japanese 14secs in the middle of the April to reef and cold mornings. encephalitis and malaria (officially Oct high season. Sometimes, 6-10ft not present on Bali) - avoid bites. (2-3m) tropical cyclone swells can Lodging and Food – back-alley Considering the lack of sewage arrive from the western Indian Kuta losmans (guest houses) that cost treatment and general sanitation Ocean or NW Australia through the from $8-$25/night and finishing with levels, it’s not surprising that cholera, d southern hemisphere summer. Swells the ridiculous exclusive resorts of typhoid, hepatitis, Bali-belly and TB

iel are focused onto the Bukit Peninsula Nusa Dua or Jimbaran for anything are prevalent. Avoid rivermouths. h

s because of the deep-water channels up to $8000 per night! There are Don’t drink local water supply, ice or

on either side of Bali, particularly many surf camps offering all inclusive fruit/veg not freshly peeled/cooked. the east side Lombok channel, which packages (transfers, accom, board Dogs can carry rabies. Be careful rew can draw in overhead waves to Nusa hire, lessons, transport, guiding, etc) of thieves, scammers and hustlers

Lacerations nd Dua when everywhere else seems for reasonable prices starting around - drugs are a big no-no. Motorbike a too small. The ESE trade winds blow $40/d (Balicamp, Kima) for room/ road-rash or shallow reef-rash are clean. Looks best at mid and offers intermediates a chance STATISTICS J F M A M J J A S O N D reliably from April to Oct, then shift bungalow to $70+ for self contained biggest threats. If injured seriously, SWELL SW-NW for the Dec to March wet- family houses. Classic Indonesian many fly to Singapore or Darwin compared to the Keramas line-up. Rare pointbreak at Padang Direction       season. Wet season wind speeds are on dishes like nasi goreng (fried rice) and for hospital treatment as opposed to Bai needs a minor miracle to break well. Big S swells will Size (ft) 4-5 5-6 6-7 7-8 6 4-5 WI the whole lower, usually staying below sate ayam (chicken sate) are as cheap entering Denpasar Hospital. Private

wrap into the natural harbour around a headland and peel ND Direction 10mph (16kph) compared to the dry as $2-3. Great seafood available - try clinics and hospitals have improved down the rocky reef for up to 150m at mid tides. Problem is it Force F3 F2 F3 F3 F3 F3 season SE trades which regularly hit the Jimbaran fish restaurants. treatment facilities but are expensive needs W winds so you are unlikely to get the maxing swell in WATER Wetsuit off-season. 1 1 1 1 1 1 double that. Tide charts are posted in cash up front deals - get medical Over on Nusa Lembongan island, Shipwrecks is non- surf shop windows showing a big and Nature and Culture – Balinese insurance! Temp/ºC 29 28 28 27 27 28 a small tide each day, while full and practice an unusual form of Hinduism existent at low tide, but starts breaking on the push to mid and WEAT Rainfall/mm 300 177 105 55 77 172 new moons often see a jump in swell with a dash of Buddism and Animism, Handy Hints – Kuta has the highest sets start rearing up out of the deep Lombok channel, peeling days/mth 18 13 8 5 7 13 H size as tidal range increases. creating a fascinating religious culture concentration of well-stocked surf fast with a high, tight envelope and open shoulder. Gets packed ER Min temp/ºC 23 23 23 23 23 23 with surfers of all standards so snagging one and avoiding Max temp/ºC 29 31 31 31 30 30 centred on ritual ceremonies and shops in the world and prices may the scratchers is part of the deal. Getting the tide just right is Weather – Two distinct seasons. The offerings. Favourite tourist haunts compare favourably when looking the trick - mid on springs, higher on neaps. Lacerations is a It’s an easier paddle, continues to break at lower tides, is a little April-Nov dry season temps range include the artist village of Ubud, at high airline board charges. It is hard-core right with excellent, wide-open tube time on offer as bit deeper and offers more wall to work as opposed to the flat from a night low of 23°C (74°F) to a sunrise over Lake Batur and the lofty possible to sell your gear to local shops the tide floods the sharp, shallow reef. It’s a pitching, air-drop out barrels nearby. The lefts are better with a few lip-bashing day high of 33ºC (92ºF), tempered by volcanic peak of Agung mountain, and giving kids your spare boards, entry from the peak into a straight barrel section then a further opportunities along a tapered wall, while the rights may pitch sea breezes and the odd rain shower which dominates the landscape. There boots, leg ropes is normal practice. sucky bowl as it approaches the channel marked by floating slightly, but fade quickly. Ceningan Island is a lefthander that during the night. Nov-April is hotter, are also famous temples (Uluwatu, Learn some basic Indonesian, which mooring lines that litter the bay. Not easy, not long and not lines up rolling walls with a nice steep pocket and predictable wetter, and more humid. Jan-Feb Tanah Lot, Besakih), myriad shopping is easy to pick up. Be courteous to the empty. Nestled below cliffs, Playgrounds offers good SE trade sections. Some protection from the trades and it’s a good small suffers from heavy afternoon rains opportunities and great restaurants. local surfers. protection and is the most user-friendly spot on Lembongan. swell, low tide option when Lembongan isn’t working. Home

Southwest WAWestern Australia eBooks

Margaret River Pro The Margaret River area of W.A. Men’s & Women’s: 29th May – 9th Jun is perceived as Australia’s most Venues: The Point, The Box consistent and challenging big wave forum, where pretensions and pretenders are quickly washed away. Whilst the NW conceals Summary Indo-like lefts, the area S of Cape + Massive swell exposure Naturaliste is littered with rocky These Stormrider Surf Guide eBooks cover this + World-class reefs ledges and pointbreaks, that get region – CLICK TO BUY + Lots of power battered by giant Roaring Forties + Dramatic coastline swells. The scenic Caves Road skirts the coastline, meandering through – Cold and wet winters forests, gentle hills and around – Isolated, dangerous reefs vineyards that overlook the sea – Windy where a truly hardcore crew shreds 4– 4WD access dozens of world-class spots. Home Southwest WA

Characteristics

SIZE SWELL BOTTOM TYPE TIDE WIND r9  ; t o 4 S-NW unEVEN REEF ALL E REEF/SAND PEAK Description Sitting 10km west of the town of Margaret River, these famous lefts have been a proving ground and contest site for decades. It also holds some rights in swells up to 6ft but Margaret’s is all about size and the lefts will handle plenty of that. Heart-stopping drops, lumpy bowls and cutback walls are all part of the waves’ personality and it can handle a healthy dose of onshore wind, maintaining shape and some face smoothness for long, swooping turns. Watch out for speed bumps when cranking off the bottom and keep an eye on the horizon. Getting caught inside is no fun and positively dangerous if taking on the rights. Best conditions will be solid W swell, skimpy E wind and mid to high tide. The Rivermouth beachies nestled in the bay provide beginner/improver fun. d iel h s Margaret River Point rew

nd magicseaweed forecast a Home Southwest WA

Characteristics

SIZE SWELL BOTTOM TYPE TIDE WIND r4  j g p 4 S-W ROCK RIGHT ONLY E LEDGE REEF hIGH

Description The Box is a mutant righthand slab that earns its name from the square-shaped pits, just across the bay from Surfers Point. Make the air-drop then negotiate the dry sucks, boils or stepped faces to claim serious shack time. W swell helps make- ability as does more water over the sharp, sharky reef. Insane wave for the clinically insane or the pros when the comp is on. H SMIT The Box Y

magicseaweed forecast MICKE Home Southwest WA Other Breaks The protected reefs of Cape Naturaliste work when a huge up at the Other Side of the Moon nearer the Cape Naturaliste regular clean-up sets at any size. Yallingup is a SW-W swell is running, and the SW winds are blowing. The Lighthouse. A series of reef peaks affectionately called major surf community, where steep, hollow waves, laid-back lefts at Rocky Point start with sloping walls from Three Bears, thanks to their ability to have something in brush a scattering of hungry rocks along this take-off, then hit a nice bit of reef further in, throwing out a the “just right” category in a wide range of swell sizes. The curve of classic WA sand. Names like Mousetrap bit more, but generally this wave is accessible to improvers hierarchy is obvious with Papa’s furthest out able to handle and Rabbit Hill refer to reliable clusters of rock e4;bRocky Point up. There’s more beginner-orientated beachbreaks and a triple overhead plus. Mama’s can be a perfect sucking barrel and sand, but the whole stretch can fire all the Cape Naturaliste Bunkers few reefs further around at Bunkers Bay, with spots like on those medium-sized SW swell days, with heavy drops and way down to the learner-friendly peaks and Windmills w4;b Bay The Farm, Boneyards and The Quarries working on similar speedy walls, favouring the lefts at mid tides. Baby’s isn’t occasionally thumping shorey facing the car Eagle conditions. The peak at Windmills works on small swells always the runt of the litter and can have nice spiralling lefts park. Supertubes is aptly named and describes Bay w7;t Point only and has tubey sections in an offshore E, as do other and a few decent rights off the peak in small to moderate the wave right from the off. Vertical to air drops Three Bears Dalling 200 sandy reef peaks along this stretch, including a regular left SW-W swells. Makes the most of small swells and is prone to straight to double speedy tube section before Dunsborough kicking out or closing out. Critical, pitching rights Yallingup w5;5 Mt Duckworth 227 m Quindalup

n are what most are looking for, but there are plenty w4lt Broadwater Supertubes Yallingup Busselton of lefts as well, which can ledge and mutate over Marybrook e6lt V Wyadup ASSE lla Pea Break

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mick 100 righthand barrels, plus some less challenging lefts that will handle more size than the right. Pea Break is another top-class righthand barrel Wilyabrup

searing over shallow reef in front of the car parks ROAD

at Injidup. Typical, ledgy WA drop into full keg North Point r6ld Bussell Highway

VES followed by Daytona wall for armco bashing South Point r5lc CA Cowaramup and an inside exit ramp. The bendy bowl at the Gracetown jostling, postage stamp peak offers a far more approachable left for intermediates. The point at Big Rock w5lg

er Injidup needs a sizeable SW or moderate W swell aret Riv arg before the lumbering lefts get going. Steep, open M Cape faces, interrupted by ill-tempered sections and Mentelle Margaret The Box r4jg River it’s tidally sensitive. Further south past the sucky Prevelly lefts of Moses Point, are plenty of spooky waves Margaret River r9;t Gnarabup with evocative names like Hangmans, Gallows Grunters e6lg Witchcliffe and Guilotines found in the maze of heavy-duty Gas Bay e6lt Redgate 4WD tracks between Yallingup and Cowaramup. Redgate w2;5 North Point is one of the most majestic and Forest Grove powerful righthand points in the country. It takes Caves Road Cape to iver a fair amount of S to SW swell to swing onto the Freycinet R k Karridale c a l barnacle crusted reef where it rears up swiftly and Augusta B Three Bears roars straight into a throaty barrel section before Home Southwest WA Travel Info slinging into the often hollower inside, where maintaining shallow over the urchin sprinkled reef. Big Rock, is another Swell and Wind – The area from Weather – The seasons are distinct wine, so a vineyard tour is a good way speed is crucial to survival. As size increases it is possible to shallow, sucky right and along with Cobblestones, Noisies and Cape Naturaliste to Cape Freycinet with summer (Dec-Feb) enjoying hot to kill a day on the unlikely chance of multi-park under the thick, dredging lips along a length of Lefties, this area will always have a wave and a crowd when is fully exposed to the furious SW temps and very little rain. Autumn is it ever going flat. The Mammoth Cave ride that exceeds 300m. It’s a massive paddle and really needs the swell and wind is down. The Box (see venue). Next to swells produced by the Roaring a great time but from May-Aug it gets is a good visit. Take a boat to Flinders higher tides and an E wind to show its class. Non-experts Margaret River Surfers Point (see venue) triangular Forties. Waves can be large, although pretty wet and cold with storms often Island to see the bottlenose dolphins will prefer South Point, a functional, fun-lovin’ left that reef is Southside, another shelf of stone, facing into the SW not necessarily clean and orderly, hitting the coast accompanied by gusty and the fur seal colonies. runs a sloping wall down the jumbled rocks, standing up in swell and cultivating some tubular rights into the channel plus especially in winter, when there can SW-W winds. Sept marks the start places to work on those drawn-out roundhouses. Stays nice some seriously round, long lefts that close-out on the near- be days of huge, onshore mush. Expect of spring and some rainy days, but Hazards and Hassles – The waves and smooth in SW wind, prefers higher tides and can get dry reef, leaving the rider particularly susceptible to clean-up numerous 6-20ft swells in the winter, generally it’s fine. A light steamer is the can be big and powerful, more suited but usually only the sheltered spots suit of choice year-round. to experienced surfers. Getting caught will be rideable. Changeover seasons inside can be really heavy and many n are the best bet as there are plenty of Lodging and Food – WA is full of reefs are super shallow and urchined!

lla 4-12ft days at the most exposed spots. campsites and caravan parks and the The bush is full of spiders and snakes;

u Even summertime is rarely flat, when towns have plenty of cheap hotels. watch out for the deadly Tiger snake. g regular 2-8ft swells can occur. WA Recommended ones are in Gnarabup Locals are hardcore and don’t like is plagued by strong SW-W winds, (Surf Point Lodge: $90/dble, 3 nights bad wave manners but the waves are

mick while during the late summer/autumn min stay), Margaret River (Innetown plentiful, so there’s rarely a problem. there can be days with SE-S winds. Backpackers: $20); Gracetown Chalets When a high pressure sits over SW ($130/n – 5 people) and Yallingup Handy Hints – Take a gun or buy Australia, the mornings will typically (Chandlers Smiths Beach Villas: cheap, quality boards from many be offshore, before an afternoon sea $720/w). A decent meal costs from $10. local surf shops in Dunsborough, breeze (the Fremantle Doctor) blows Yallingup and Margaret River. Lots of out the surf. Tidal ranges are minimal Nature and Culture – The opportunity to try wind/kiteboarding and there is only one tide a day. Margaret River area produces great in afternoons.

sets. Beyond the big swell, lefthand reefs off Gnarabup Beach STATISTICS J F M A M J J A S O N D and down toward Gas Bay lies Grunters, an unpretentious SWELL Direction wave that does what it says on the label. Seriously powerful D D S S D T Size (ft) 5 6 7 8 6-7 5

righthanders wedge up a way offshore and explode with WI

maximum force on the surprisingly shallow shelf. Often ND Direction double sucks so be prepared to launch on what is already an Force F4 F4 F4-F5 F5 F4-F5 F4

air drop. S-SW swells and NE wind plus mid tides up. Inside WATER Wetsuit Gas Bay is another grindy peak that will be smaller and more 3 2 3 3 3 3 manageable, but still a challenge with heavy barrels and a Temp/ºC 19 21 19 17 16 18

covetous local crew. To the south, Redgate breaks mainly WEAT Rainfall/mm 21 52 200 195 95 32 over sand creating hollow, punchy peaks in smaller swells. days/mth 3 8 18 21 14 7 H A-Frame shacks will also be found to the north along the ER Min temp/ºC 14 12 10 8 9 12 North Point Max temp/ºC 24 23 18 16 18 22 Boodjidup stretch. Home

Rio de JaneiroBrazil eBooks

Oi Rio Pro Rio’s physical features are dominated Men’s & Women’s: 20th Jun – 28th Jun by the Sierra do Mar mountain Venues: Saquarema – Itauna, Barrinha range, which is cloaked by the Mata Atlantica forest. Mountains plunge into the sea, forests meet the beaches and granite cliff faces rise abruptly Summary from the extended lowlands. The + Brazil’s best beachbreaks Wonderful City is one of the most These Stormrider Surf Guide eBooks cover this + Consistent year-round densely populated places on earth, region – CLICK TO BUY + Drier winter time with almost 7 million “Cariocas” + Rio access and services indulging in dancing, drinking, beach-going and sunbathing. The – Lack of points and reefs waves can get hollow and powerful – Rare epic conditions enough to run World Tour contests – Ultra-crowded main spots at the best beaches, where the crowds 5– High street crime rate can be intense. Home Rio de Janeiro

Characteristics

SIZE SWELL BOTTOM TYPE TIDE WIND q6  h 5 o 3 E-SW SAND PEAKS ALL nW

Description Itauna is often referred to as the Maracanã of surf as it holds major contests in some of the most consistent and competitive waves in the land. 10-12ft and clean is not that rare an occurrence when the outside lefts roll through on E-SE swells. Powerful tubular rights grind through on a S-SW, but won’t handle so much size. Like most beaches, it is accessible to most abilities when small, but requires skills once overhead conditions arrive, along with the best, dialled-in locals. Overlooked by the Nazaré Church, built in 1630 at the mouth of the lagoon, bringing pollution, plus it is often colder in the water in Saquarema. uy r Itauna magicseaweed forecast basilio Home Rio de Janeiro

493 Imbariê Magé 493 Unamar Campos Río 101 beach peaks as well, running right through famous Ipanema Elyseos Bonito São Vicente 7[HKV Queimados 7HP=P[\YPV 0SOH)YHUJH down to Arpoador, Rio’s favourite pro contest site. Brazil’s )HOÓHKL 0KL de Paula 0SOH-LPH .\HUHIHYH 7HX\L[Ç Tanguá 106 *HIV)\aPVZ Nova BR040 Manilha Itaborai surfing birthplace usually entertains the best surf of the Zona Búzios 0SOH.YH]H[H Iguaça Aeroporto 0SOH(UJVYH Duque Do Galeão 101 124 Sul (South Side), easily recognised by its giant granite rock de Caxias São 102 e3 0SOHKV 114 lookout. On medium to big E-SE swell, lefts can reach 10ft, Nilópolis 104 Iguaba Itapeba 7[HKHZ .V]LYUHKVY Gonçalo São Pedro ,TLYLUJPHZ lt 101 Grande 8 0SOHKL 0SOHKV)YL\ wrapping around the point and catching on the sandbar that Monjolo T 106 2 1 da Aldeia Neves Sampaio 7HYNVZ w3 Correia /DMH5DVD builds up next to it. Longish walls with hollow slots and plenty Santíssimo Realengo Ipiíba Ubatiba Araruama 3HNVHKL(YHY\HTH Cabo h5 Rio de Niterói Bacaxá Frio 0SOH*VTWYPKH of punch for a full repertoire of manoeuvres, before doing the Campo Vila Progresso 3HNVHKL RJ087 Janeiro 0SOHKV7HWHNHPV Grande Inoã 106 Maricá 3HNVHKL :HX\HYLTH 102 *HULED Jaconé Saquarema 120 run back up the beach and jumping off the point. Will show its 108 .\HYHWPUH 7[HKH 7qVKL(s‚JHY 3HNVHKL q3hx  T 3HNVHKL Guaratiba 9LZ[PUNHKL4HZZHTIHIH 7YHPUOH 7PJVKH;PQ\JH *VYJV]HKV 7PYH[PUPUNHItaipu 4HYPJH best in SE swell, lower tides and NE wind, but unfortunately T T 114 Arraial Copacabana 7[H5LNYH do Cabo Barra da Ipanema 7[H 9LZ[PUNHKL4HYPJH this doesn’t occur too often and when it does, thick crowds KV(YWVHKVY 0SOH Tijuca KH4HL q6h5 )RUWH 7[HKV w4 q2h5 q4h5 *HIV of Rio rippers will be all over it. Has hosted top-level surf Barra da HKH;PQ\JH Guaratiba )HYY 4HYPZJV 0SOHZ h5 0SOH q2h5 q4h5 -YPV *HNHYYHZ w4 q5 4HYPJ\Z contests, but its inconsistency makes it a lottery. Since the city 0SOHZ h5 ;PQ\JHZ h5 w4\5 installed lighting, night time sessions are entirely doable and w4 09HZH &RSDFDEDQD -DFRQp ,WDXQD 6HFD w4h5 w4h5w5k5 3RQWD1HJUD 3UDLDGD9LOD h5 'LDER far less popular with the locals. Wandering down Ipanema q4h5 ,WDFRDWLDUD w4 3UDLD%UDYD beach won’t escape the crowds, but the people-watching is e4hv $USRDGRU w3 h5 %DUUDGD7LMXFD6DQ&RQUDGR/HEORQ special. It’s the same vibe around the headland in the short, h5 3UDLD0DFXPED 3UDLQKD %DUUDGD*XDUDWLED*UXPDUL im

u Ipanema g n and pretty peaks fill the middle stretch and can be hollow. guillotine lips and few regular pe channels. Rips, jellyfish and

Unusually for this coastline, Praia Macumba is usually e

a fat rolling wall, ideal for longboarders and learners since severe sewage pollution add to the u the take-off is slopey and easy. Handles plenty of size but risks. São Conrado is a heaving riq

has enough deep channels to get out at the main peak on the shorey barrel-fest on better SE n Rio’s westernmost surf is located on the southern coast of eastern point. Can be a bit steeper down the west end and at swells, attracting large numbers e h Ilha Grande. Restinga de Marambaia represents 40kms of the sucky bodyboard spot Secrets. Such an easy wave is gonna of bodyboarders from the large mostly off-limits beachbreaks because of military restrictions. attract a lot of older, wiser surfers and those not so wise - be local favela, Rocinha. Both the The unreliable rivermouth left at Barra de Guaratiba can careful on the paddle-outs. Barra da Tijuca stretches for lefts off the rocky eastern end be Rio’s best wave when the cylindrical walls spin down the 14km so there are many local names for different sandbars, and the middle peak will lurch triangulated sandbar. Fast, throaty barrels, but the crowds, often named after the lifeguard post numbers. Furthest west from air drop to spitting barrel localism, sharks and pollution detract heavily. Cradled in a is Recreio which always has a decent sandbar and a crowd to with lots of wedge and close-out beautiful and protected natural setting, Grumari is really match. The undeveloped foreshore of Reserva in the middle ramps. Not the place to get cocky consistent and open to all swells, lining up nicely in SW up to Barramares can hold some serious tubes in S swells. or leave anything in the car. The swells and any N wind. Fun for all when small, then it takes Pepe’s near the rivermouth shapes some rapid lefts, but pollution is sickening after rains. some skill to just get out on overhead days. If there’s no surf pollution is a big worry. When it’s small, Barra da Tijuca is Leblon outputs beefy rights up to at Prainha, then give up for the day. Swells from the E will fairly gentle and user-friendly for all abilities. The main peaks 12ft in S swells that are sheltered get lefts wrapping round the point, while the rights at the will be crowded, but you can walk up or down to another peak. from W winds at the pointbreak other end will handle anything around to the SW. Powerful Once overhead, the waves get fast, often closing-out with and there are sucky, dumpy Home Rio de Janeiro Travel Info Swell and Wind – The Littoral as hot as 26ºC (70-76ºF)! Springy or Hazards and Hassles – Expect Carioca receives the same swells as boardshorts rule this coast. Upwelling thick, aggressive crowds and localism São Paulo, but big swells are rare, makes Saquarema and Cabo Frio cold! at any urban spot. Hike down long which is convenient because few spots beaches for hassle-free line-ups. can hold size. Dominant wind comes Lodging and Food – Copacabana is Pollution is a massive issue. Drug from the E varying from 16% (June) where most int’l hotels are located. Try abuse, street violence and muggings/ to 32% (Oct); NE-SE is the usual Pousada Barra Sol in Tijuca (fr$36). car jackings are rife. Avoid strolling direction plus the winter S-SW winds In Saquarema, Itauna Inn Casal fr along beaches at night, or in favelas when cold fronts move towards the $45 with ideal surf views. Plenty of like Rocinha. coast. Offshores only occur on calm pousadas in Buzios. Expect tasty Prato mornings before 10am, or on SW- do dia to cost ±$5. Handy Hints – Local boards are facing spots with NE winds. Tidal cheap (fr$2-300 shortboard) and

im range is usually low (1.5m max) and Nature and Culture – The beach in good quality. Shapers: Lelot, André

u doesn’t matter most of the time. Rio is the main place to go for action, Cebola, Akio, Udo Bastos. Shops: g

n sport, parties, shows...Futvolei is big! Rocky Center, Rico, Local, Geriba

pe Weather – Rio is tropical, warm and Don’t miss Pão de Azucar (400m) or Surf. Surf schools: Escola de Surf Rico

e humid, with local variations due to Corcovado Cristo Redentor (710m) (Ipanema, Barra), Saquarema Surf u differences in altitude, vegetation and for sunset views of the city from a School, Sunset (Buzios). Rio has a surf

riq proximity to the ocean. Hot summer cable car. Pillion flights with a pilot bus that goes to all the beaches. Avoid

n days (Dec-March) are followed by hang/para-gliding off the 510m Pedra Carnival time! Copacabana e

h heavy and rapid evening rains. Most Bonita can be arranged. Excellent surfers tend to come in winter; Oct hiking and climbing. sucky sliders of Diabo. Copacabana may be the world’s out E-SE lefts. Any N wind and a pushing tide is usually water temps can be as cold as 20ºC or most famous beach, attracting the beautiful, bronzed local the go. It’s not always perfect, but when it picks up, only Cariocas and tourists to an endless party along Avenida experienced, fleet-footed surfers should take on the air-drops. Atlantica. During a strong SE swell and W-NW wind, big A long, rigidly straight beach leads past the extensive lagoon superb lefts. Praia Brava also holds long, perfect lefts in STATISTICS J F M A M J J A S O N D tubes pop up and slam the shorebreak at lower tides, making system to Ponta Negra, where powerful beachbreak can Arraial do Cabo, when NE winds clean an E-S swell. There SWELL Direction       the bodyboarders happy and the lifeguards nervous. The SW arrive with E-SE swell, but it is usually closing-out or messy are also peaks along the narrow beach that disappears at high Size (ft) 2 2-3 3-4 4 3-4 2 corner offers more south wind and swell protection around and blown-out. Jaconé prefers a SW swell angle to help tide. Cabo Frio gets consistent surf by a 1616 built fort, thus WI

ND Direction Posto 6, up to more exposed Posto 5 and then Leme at the with the close-outs that sometimes spin off some cylindrical it’s called Praia Forte. It’s pretty urban so expect competitive Force F3-F4 F3-F4 F3-F4 F3-F4 F4 F3-F4 north end occasionally gets fast hollow, suck-out lefts. When corners. Many Cariocas consider Saquarema to have the crowds, when the SE swell gets in. There are empty waves WATER Wetsuit it’s small and onshore, beginners will be OK, otherwise it’s most consistent, quality waves in Brazil. To the west of the all the way down the long arc of beach through Foguete and 1 1 2 2 2 2 for intermediates/experts when huge and barreling. This lagoon channel, Praia da Vila piles up sand off the point Pontal where there is also a left reef off the island. Geriba is the ultimate beach crowd and the line-up will never be with a peak and a left that can get hollow and hard-breaking is ritzy Buzios’ most consistent beachbreak, best on NW-NE Temp/ºC 25 25 23 22 22 23 WEAT Rainfall/mm 110 120 85 55 90 130 empty. Take the 14km Niteroi bridge to cross the Bahia de on a moderate swell with E in it. Nice intermediate-friendly wind and E to S swell, but it gets super-crowded on weekends. days/mth 11 12 9 7 10 13 Guanabara (which has a few waves in storm swells) and reach walls when smaller. Saquarema (see venue). Massambada Nice peaks, sometimes hollow and plenty of walls to work H ER Min temp/ºC 23 22 20 19 20 22 Itacoatiara. This is one of the heavier, hollower beachbreaks Restinga is another endless beach with myriads of potential with. Heading south to Tucuns or even Dunas de Pero will Max temp/ºC 30 29 26 26 26 28 in Brazil, sucking in S swells and exploding them on shallow, peaks, best on E-S mid-size swells and N winds. Check as result in a mellower wave and line-up. The outside reefbreaks challenging bars. West end Pampo can have good rights on many access points as possible, like Seca about halfway down of Laje Rasa are slopey cutback shoulders perfect for cruising SW, Meio lurches hard in the middle while Costão will turn and Praia Grande, which shapes all size S swell into some and SUP. Be ready for a 30min paddle or get a boat out there. Home

St Francis BaySouth Africa eBooks

J-Bay Pro Halfway between Durban and Cape Men’s & Women’s: 9th Jul – 22nd Jul Town is South Africa’s best and most Venues: Jeffreys Bay consistent surf zone. The frequent winter SW swells turn on dozens of classic pointbreaks that are hidden away inside crescent shaped coves. Summary Jeffreys Bay (J-Bay) is obviously the + J-Bay’s world-class rights most renowned wave and is considered These Stormrider Surf Guide eBooks cover this + Consistent swells one of the best righthanders in the region – CLICK TO BUY + Frequent offshore winds world. St Francis Bay is blessed with + Surf town facilities other quality waves, including the fickle Bruce’s Beauties, which featured in the – Cool water and wind chill seminal ‘60s film, Endless Summer. – Mussel covered rocks Jeffreys Bay has quickly grown from – Sharks laid-back hippie town into South – Packed J-Bay line-up Africa’s major surf hub and a solid 6tourist destination in its own right. Home St Francis Bay

Characteristics

SIZE SWELL BOTTOM TYPE TIDE WIND w5  \ d o 9 nE-S SAND RIGHT ALL SW BOULDERS POINT Description The longest, most perfect righthand pointbreak on the planet, consists of no less than 10 different sections including Kitchen Windows, Magnatubes, Boneyards, Supertubes, Impossibles, Salad Bowls, Coins, Tubes, The Point and finally Albatross. Fingers of basalt hold the sand uniformly, creating the perfect bathymetry for 1km long rides between Boneyards and The Point when the swell is just the right size and perfectly lined up. Supertubes is the stellar section, where the pro competitions are held and the crew are most combative, while Point and Albatross are slower, more manageable walls for intermediates and longboarders. Maintaining high speed and a high line is critical for threading the multiple tube sections and cutting back is rarely a good idea. SW-W is offshore for most of the sections, while NW-NE Berg (or Devil) winds descend from the mountains, blowing into the barrels and creating a nasty chop that is hard to handle on a wave where speed is king. Currents can be unrelenting and sweep you down the point in a trice. Walking back up the point is de rigeur, but then you must find the keyhole through the sharp, mussel-coated boulders that are know locally as bricks. Booties and a strong board will help avoid damage and stave off the effects of upwelling fed cold water in n the 15-19ºC (59-66ºF) bracket, further depressed by a lively windchill se y factor, despite being in a subtropical convergence zone where the g

n warm Agulhas current meets the cold South Atlantic. va J-Bay n magicseaweed forecast ala Home St Francis Bay

1000 1500 Other500 Breaks 1500 Thornhill 1000 is quite reliable and powerful in small summer swells, with barrels to be had in the pristine environment. The sand has N2 500 e3h5

The Fence

Blue swallowed the road so park in the big lot and hope the thieves G 1000 q2hs amtoosrivier Horizon Port Humewood Beach Bay aren’t on duty that day. Walking almost a km to the west will N2 Elizabeth w5kg Miller's Point get you into Doughnuts, a bodyboarding favourite since e4kgAvalanche 500 there is always a hole in the middle. A good 300m offshore is Beachview e2h5Pollock Beach q2h5 Clarendon the spooky lefthander on the Back Reef where fast spinning Humansdorp NoorskloofVan Staden's Mouth Ocean Marine walls entice those skilled and brave enough to get some shack Cape w3jgThe Beacon Jeffreys Bay w5\dJ-Bay Chelsea Recife Point time without meeting the local wildlife. Nordhoek Main

Foulkes Point F r a n c i s B h5 w2;g Rights is an easy access righthand reef thanks to the boat S t a y Doughnuts w3 Non Kom Aston Bay w2;g launching ramp and deeper channel that can make it a dry See w3h5 Nordhoek Beach koeirivi er Sardinia Bay Seekoeipunt w3lb Kr Clapton's Coils hair paddle out avoiding the the urchins and mussels that o e4lb mri Paradise Beach Rocky’s vier e4lgNordhoek Main Rights cover the rocks. Welcomes any S swell directions and can be a long, powerful ride with a few hollower sections. For w2h5Kromme Rivermouth Sea Vista w2lgHullet's Reef St Francis Bay w3;gLeftovers t5ldBruce's Beauties Cape St Francis Cape St Francis and SW winds produce a wave to rival Supertubes at J-Bay, Seal but it is a fickle spot with low consistency. Leftovers is an Point q3jd

Cape St Francis Beach mcgregor underrated wave which can offer long rides when the swell e4jd Seal Point comes up from the south. Hullet’s Reef in the town of St. dy Francis Bay is the ideal place for beginners as it has mellow ko lefts on small swells. The town’s beachbreak can get pretty SW-facing spots are exposed to plenty of Roaring Forties epic in small clean swells and there are more options up the swell, but are often onshore in the best swell season. Oyster beach at the Kromme Rivermouth. The rare but quality Bay, to the W of Seal Point, is one of these places, only really left of Clapton’s Coils near to Aston Bay works when an E worth surfing during the predominant summer E winds. swell meets a warm Berg wind. Fickle and fiercely protected Out on the tip of the bay, sharky Seal Point is split into two by locals so look elsewhere. J-Bay (see venue) is the sections by the annoying Full Stop rock. Bigger SE swells benchmark by which all world-class righthand pointbreaks may link them up into a long, fast ride with barrel and are measured. Van Staden’s Mouth, on the way to Port carve sections. Plus there is the bonus of barreling Cape Elizabeth, is situated inside the beautiful Van Stadens nature St Francis Beach is worth a look when the swell is small. reserve, but the rivermouth beachbreak is usually completely All tides and S-NW winds should see somewhere working blown out unless the winds are from the N. This coastline between The Corner, Lookouts and Ducks at the north end, heading towards Cape Recife and Port Elizabeth (PE) is where sandbars are held by reef patches and it will work in known as Wildside and made up of nature reserves and a N winds. When a big S-E swell kicks Bruce’s Beauties largely undeveloped coastline. Many reef and sand options into life, the local chargers head to Cape St. Francis for some exist including Maitlands, Beachview, Laurie’s Bay and a seriously heavy pits, that wrap dangerously close to the handful of semi-secret reefs that pick up tons of swell and rocks on their grind down the long headland. Lower tides clean up if the the wind swings any side of N. Sardinia Bay Bruce’s Beauties Home St Francis Bay Port Elizabeth Travel Info Swell and Wind – With a bit of mountains, followed a day later by a Nature and Culture – There’s very luck, there will be weeks of back to cold front coming off the sea, bringing little to do here other than surf. The back S-SW swells from March to a sudden drop in temperatures. Drakensberg Mountains are a long Sept. Strong E winds or tropical Summers are warm and you could but worthwhile trip. Port Elizabeth is cyclones occurring from Jan-March even surf in a shorty, but the known as the Friendly City, as well as can provide short-lived NE-SE swells. remainder of the year requires a good the Windy City. Attractions include Fast-paced depressions push strong 3/2 fullsuit. the Seaview Lion Park, Marine Rehab SW winds and makes SE-facing spots Centre, whale watching tours or the like J-Bay a much better bet for good Lodging and Food – During Shamwari Game Reserve. wind conditions. From Nov to March summer all accommodation may be the wind changes direction and blows full. In winter the crowds die down Hazards and Hassles – Sharks are primarily from the E, not good for and prices drop and beds can be had everyone’s big fear, as Mick Fanning the majority of spots. From April in surfer’s hostels for as little as $20/n will testify, yet the first fatal J-Bay to Oct light NW (berg) winds blow or camping from $14. Better quality attack was in Oct 2013 on a swimmer. offshore in the morning, turning SW options include Jeffreys Bay Surftrips Avoid surfing during the sardine runs, in the afternoon. Tidal range can be from ($40/n). Cape St-Francis heavy rain and at dawn or dusk. More significant so get a tide table from the Holiday Resort (fr $40/p/n), On the realistic threats are the razor sharp J-Bay surf shops. Beach Guesthouse (fr $50/p/n) and a mussels that line the rocks. multitude of others. A good meal costs Weather – The J-Bay area has an $8. The fish is excellent. Handy Hints – Car rental, fuel unstable climate but it’s generally and living costs are cheap. Surf gear

mcgregor dry. The hot Berg winds can bring bought from the J-Bay surf shops can

dy dy high temps and great weather off the be a very good deal. ko proper barrels, paddle over the sharky channel to Rocky’s, overhead, when the paddle-out and drift is too much. It’s the a slabby rock shelf that trips up SE-SW swells, but is less same deal at Pollock Beach where The Pipe breaks in all on those days. Around the derelict pylons on Humewood consistent and far less popular than the right, probably due to small swells and is even rideable in light onshores from the Beach is a righthand sandbank that can deliver thick, throaty STATISTICS J F M A M J J A S O N D the heavy take-offs and thick lips. Nordhoek Beach faces E. The Clubhouse end will handle more size, but it is probably tubes for the hordes of bodyboarders and stand-ups good SWELL Direction V F F F F V due S and is usually overpowered and onshore, but can look way better elsewhere. Avalanche may be the funnest wave in enough to make the vertical drop. Needs small to medium Size (ft) 2-3 4-5 5 5-6 4-5 3 good with small summer swells and NW winds that clean up PE when the sand builds up just right on the reef. SW swells SE swell and SW winds to be primo, but SW wraps in if big WI the rights coming off the rocks in the western corner. There’s will bend into town, allowing this rocky outcrop to catch and enough. The Fence is found at the far end of Kings Beach ND Direction also a decent right reef at the other end called Non Kom focus the power as it zips down the line at varying speed with where it meets the extensive harbour wall that provides the Force F4 F4 F4 F4 F4 F4 which will be dead offshore in NE winds. Rarely crowded with the odd hollow pocket. Pretty consistent and always crowded perfect reflection angle for wedging left peaks. Gets insanely WATER Wetsuit surfers unless Algoa Bay is flat, despite being the PE nudist when it fires. South of the Shark Rock Pier and Hobie Beach hollow and working out which ones will get the perfect bounce 2 3 3 3 3 3 beach. Out by the lighthouse, The Beacon (aka Boulders) is is Miller’s Point, another relatively mellow, messy sand- takes time, but its allure guarantees weekend crowds. Higher Temp/ºC 21 19 17 15 16 19 another small swell spot peeling right down the extended rock over-rock-shelf arrangement that needs some E in the swell to tides and big SW or moderate NE-SE swells fanned by any W WEAT Rainfall/mm 35 47 62 57 62 50 shelf. Usually better at high, eliminating the rock hop over give it a bit of punch. However, on the dozen good days a year, wind. Park at the waterslide and walk up Kings Beach, which days/mth 5 6 5 6 8 9 H the reef and keeping the cruisey walls breaking a bit more it really fires at high tide with damn long rides and barrels can have some decent waves especially at lower tides when ER Min temp/ºC 16 14 9 7 11 14 orderly. Improvers and longboarders will love it until it gets that are missing when it’s small. Gets crowded and a bit aggro Fence isn’t working. Max temp/ºC 25 24 21 20 21 23 Home

Tahiti French Polynesia eBooks

Tahiti Pro Tahiti sits at the centre of French Men’s & Women’s: 21st Aug – 1st Sept Polynesia and now, thanks to Venue: Teahupo’o the relatively recent discovery of Teahupoo, has become an undeniable focus for the surf world as the most challenging of playgrounds. There are Summary dozens of islands in the Society Island + Powerful barrelling waves chain that receive classic waves, but + Year-round consistency it’s not all scary square barrels with + Beautiful landscapes some fun walls at various passes and + Chilled-out island lifestyle even the odd beachbreak style wave to be found. On the whole, the quality – Very expensive of the spots is exceptional and the – Difficult access waves are varied, as swells arrive from – Localism at some spots both hemispheres, lighting up the These Stormrider Surf – Sharp coral reefs coastlines of Moorea and Tahiti. Guide eBooks cover this 7 region – CLICK TO BUY Home Tahiti

Characteristics

SIZE SWELL BOTTOM TYPE TIDE WIND e0  . b o 1 SE-W LIVE RIGHT ALL nE CORAL REEF Description Often touted as the ‘World’s Heaviest Wave’, Teahupoo has a fearsome reputation, encapsulated by the infamous Laird Hamilton tow-in shots that graced the cover of many surf mags in 2000. What sets Teahupoo aside is the sheer power and ferocity as a lip a few feet thick throws more out than up, creating a shape more rectangular than almond and making a mockery of most face measurements. More S in the swell will calm the beast slightly, but it is the straight on SW’ers that slam the reef and open up the caverns along the short 75-100m run for your life line-up. It’s all about the drop really, which is hyper- critical here and those able to set an early rail into the gasping tubes will do better. Mistakes are swiftly and properly punished as the highly visible reef runs close to dry so quickly, pushing the unlucky ones into the lagoon and the coral is famed for infecting cuts. When it’s smaller and from the W, there is even the odd right, a la Backdoor, but don’t get caught paddling back out. Teahupoo consistently pulls in more swell than anywhere on Tahiti, but getting the ideal NE wind is less common, especially in the high season. Hazards like sharks, motorised traffic, the long paddle, crowds, localism and sunburn are nothing compared to the wave and the reef. There’s a beachbreak at the rivermouth for the kids and it sometimes holds up a nice d right wall for turns and airs, giving an opt out for most mortals that ar u shouldn’t really be attempting big Teahupoo. o h Teahupo’o t n magicseaweed forecast be Home Tahiti Other Breaks opposite the Tahiti Museum. Deep in the bay is a fun beach/ Holds some curvy corners in larger swells and attracts some shorebreak type set-up near the rivermouth when big W swells high performance riders looking to cut loose without getting Cooks Bay Pass e4.b e3.b Passe are running and there’s something for everyone in a chilled cut. There’s also some outside reef action for the chargers. Hauru Pointe Pihaena e4.g Passe Av Temae Passe aroa out atmosphere. Just down the coast there’s more waves in On the Iti Peninsula, the Tapuehara Pass holds the flawless Taotai e2.g T Pointe Aroa Pointe Venus w4;5 areu Papenoo w2;5 the bay and on the pass at Paea. Hollow, fast and shallow are lefts of Vairao, yet another epic barrel spinning across the Maharepa Arue Pointe Passe de Papenoo Vénus Temae Passe de Faaurumai often used to describe Tahitian waves and definitely apply to coral shallows 2km out. The S swell window and NE-E wind Paopao MOOREA Mahina Pointe this distant fringe of reef at Passe de Maraa. Needs as much combo make it consistent, it packs some serious punch without Hauru Passe Vaiare Papava Arahoho Vaiare T Pointe Nuuraa Papenoo e Fa Farehau Arue na ou B water as possible and some S in the swell to stop it shutting huge crowds and like most waves in the world, is less intense Iumaru anc d e Afareiatu Papeete l 1207m 'A Passe de Mahaena down horribly. The bonus is a lack of crowds and occasionally than its neighbour, that freak of nature known as Teahupoo Taota Passe Tupapaurau r Mt Tohiea té m Mahaena i Haumi P s Passe Haapiti Passe Teruaupu a e the right across the fast flowing channel will fire. Experts (see venue). At a southern latitude of 17°, Tahiti is perfectly au p e Chenal de Moorea n Passe Pointe Nuupere Faaa o Passe de o Matauv Maatea Pointe Mataorio only. Beginners can head for the good beachbreak in Papara, exposed to the super-consistent S/SW swells, which hammer Taapuna w6.b Taapuna Hitiaa Passe de la Boudeuse which is a nice rest from the intensity of the surrounding reefs. the S coast year-round, but peak between April and Oct. Haapiti e4.b 2066m Taapuna Punaauia Mt Aorai 2241m Mt Orohena e5.b Punaruu Sapinus Passe Tamaote Pa d TAHITI NUI pe iha Pointe Poihahi

Passe Poohonu Faaone ar Lac Paea Vaihiria u

Passe de Paea o

Tiitau Taharoa h

Rf Baie Padesse deasse Pa peiride Motunono Taverea P t Taravao PasseRf Toa Passe Teafa T Ta hu aare va e rao Rf T asse ahumatara Pointe de Maraa Paihoro érif P T n Papao a Papeari Pueu Passe R Vaionifa Papara be f Toahotu asse de P Maraa Rf T T Tautira Passe epuahon Atimaono é o m R f Teputa a in T e4.b o e asseP ointe Riti a

Passe de Maraa aa P i a

ar Vairao t

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aha TAHITI ITI a q3;5 Teav Papara Pointe Passe de A Passe Rautirare i ur

Passe Tapuaer 1332m u a

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f r Pointe T a Utumanomano e Teahupoo i e6.b m a Vairao Matahiae aa V On Tahiti Papenoo can provide a fun, hollow range of peaks Passeaiti vae Teav Pointe around the rivermouth, which helps shape some sand and rock Passe Ha Fare Mahora Pointe Vaiau bars, along with bringing pollution and a shark problem after e0.b Passe Puotoe Fareara Teahupoo Passe rains. Holds the crowd that come in N swells and is usually cool, but there might be some vibe when the left is really firing. Cops the trades pretty bad so check it early. Out on an suited to bodyboards. Close to Papeete is Taapuna, the exposed, hammerhead reef, Pointe Venus follows the trend original Tahitian tube garden and popular destination wave of Tahitian rights by being shallow and sketchy, requiring more for those who want a hollow, dredging and technically testing than a little skill to negotiate the rapid tubes. Needs a small to lefthander, a couple of notches below Teahupoo. Any W swell moderate NE swell and S quadrant winds as it will get out of and any E wind will work, so it is consistent, crowded with control in bigger swells. While the Bay de Matavai is famous good surfers and suited to experienced reefbreak surfers. for being Cook’s landing spot, its long curve of volcanic sand Usual problems of being way out there, in waters strafed by is fairly poor for waves with lots of close-outs, but the bays current and a local crew who demand as much respect as towards Arue hold a few reefbreaks like Taharaa, surrounded the wave. Generally considered an easier alternative than by plush hotels and further on a very shallow left and right Taapuna, Sapinus can still throw a decent tube especially on at La Fayette, where there is also some dumpy shorebreak, its inside section and offers some nice walled rides on the pass Tahiti Iti Home Tahiti Temae Travel Info Swell and Wind – At a southern Lodging and Food – At the bottom Hazards and Hassles – Respect latitude of 17°, Tahiti is perfectly of the accommodation range are the local’s deep feeling of pride. The exposed to the super-consistent S/ the dorm beds at Teamo (Papeete waves are super-heavy and the reefs SW swells, which hammer the S coast Youth Hostel), which charges at are shallow and full of fire coral. year-round, but peak between April least $36/n. A mid-range favourite Currents at the mouth of reef passes and Oct. Expect the surf to range is Taharuu Surf Lodge in Papara (fr can be very strong. Teahupoo is one from 4 to 15ft in season and 2-5ft in $85/n). In Teahupoo try Tauhanihani of the most dangerous waves in the the off-season. Exposure to NW/N Village Lodge ($100/n), Vanira Lodge world and should only be tackled by swells between Nov and March is (fr$140/n), Te Pari Village or one of the most advanced of surfers. It has less generous, arriving in the 3ft-8ft the other local “Faré” from $90/n. already seen one surf-related death. range. Dominant trade winds come Moorea Surf Bed & Breakfast at Sharks although common, pose no from the E, tending towards SE during Haapiti have private rooms with real threat. Don’t eat poorly cooked the May to Oct dry season (Maraamu), breakfast starting from $135. Board fish, as there is a chance of catching whilst the wet season (Toerau), sees rental is $45 per day. There’s plenty ciguatera, a type of food poisoning. the wind coming more from the NE. of motu style high end hotels and also There are lots of mosquitoes, but no Mornings will usually be glassy and Camping Nelson from $15/n. Eat from malaria. co

n tidal range is very small. the roulottes (rolling food trucks) where locals eat simple island meals Handy Hints – Equipment is bla

Weather – During the wet season from $10, but more frequently you’ll very expensive in the Papeete and

is from Nov to April, there will be a spend around $20-30 on a meal. Maharepa surf shops. Bring at least u

l heavy downpour every other day. El two boards, including a longer pintail Niño years are very wet. Cyclones Nature and Culture – Head up into made especially for local conditions Expect the surf to range from 4 to 15ft in season and 2-5ft little regard for the boiling shut down sections. There is an hit the country on occasions. In the the beautiful mountains, visit some (heavy barrels!), reef boots, sun cream in the off-season. Exposure to NW/N swells between Nov easier left back at the entrance to Opunohu Bay. Currents get dry season the high mountains effect of the caves, go fishing, diving and and possibly a helmet. Tahiti is a and March is less generous, arriving in the 3ft-8ft range. really strong and the nearby motu’s are shark diving hotspots. the weather patterns and cause the S snorkelling or just chill out amongst French speaking destination. New live Dominant trade winds come from the E, tending towards SE At headhigh, Haapiti is an easy roll-in to a very long, slopey coast to see some rain. The temps are the lush landscape. Occasional dugout HD webcams for numerous spots on during the May to Oct dry season (Maraamu), whilst the wet wall as it tours the curve of coral that is always deeper than near perfect at 23°-30°C/74º-86ºF races are worth watching. tahiti-webcam.com. season (Toerau), sees the wind coming more from the NE. the gin-clear water makes it seem. Even improvers can year-round. The water hovers around 25-27°c (77ºF-80ºF). Mornings will usually be glassy and tidal range is very small. manage, but things hot up as the size increases to double STATISTICS J F M A M J J A S O N D SWELL When the N swells roll in, Moorea Island is worth the overhead, when the drop steepens, the odd barrel section Direction       effort for its quality north coast reef passes. Cooks Bay beckons and the river-like current heading out to sea cranks Size (ft) 5 5-6 7 7-8 6-7 5-6 Pass has what some call a fun left, despite the coral reef up. Extra inches of foam and shoulder muscle helps with the WI

ND Direction being close under fin. Too much E in the wind will mess it up 20-40min paddle from town – better to hire canoes to get out Temae hugs the coralline shelf, very close to shore, providing Force F4 F4 F4 F4 F4 F4 although the shallower, nastier right across the channel will there safely and quickly. Attracts plenty of surfers, but the vibe a righthand barrel spectacle on a par with Backdoor, but much WATER Wetsuit be cleaner. Take a dugout as currents and distance rule out is often friendly and inclusive for all abilities. Wind can mess longer. When it’s on, which isn’t often since it needs non-trade- 1 1 1 1 1 1 paddling. Hauru is a narrow cut in the fringing reef near the it up and kiters will descend in the afternoons. Moorea also winds, expect air drops into multiple caverns as it parallels the Intercontinental on the north coast, which seems to favour gets plenty of decent waves through the S swell season, and if shoreline, getting shallower and uglier as it turns inside out. Temp/ºC 27 27 26 25 26 27 WEAT Rainfall/mm 300 170 95 67 75 195 lefthanders with a bit of W in the swell. Fast and shallow is the it’s big enough, SE-SW lines will slip through the Chenal de Temae locals covet this inconsistent right, so tread lightly and days/mth 14 11 7 6 7 13 theme while the right is even worse and only for chargers with Moorea then wrap around the eastern point near the airport. be sure of your abilities. H ER Min temp/ºC 23 23 21 20 21 23 Max temp/ºC 30 30 29 28 29 30 Home

Surf Ranch Leemoore, California eBooks In 2015, The Kelly Slater Wave Company Surf Ranch Pro manufactured a wave pool in Lemoore Men’s & Women’s: 19th Sept – 22nd Sept California, designed to create a wave that Venue: Surf Ranch would challenge the world’s best surfers and ultimately serve as a forum for World Championship contests. The project was shrouded in mystery and stunned the surf Summary world when it was finally unveiled. It uses + Perfect wave shape the principle of a large blade or foil being These Stormrider Surf Guide eBooks cover this + Barrels and turns drawn through the water beneath a 100 tonne, region – CLICK TO BUY + Length of ride cable-driven vehicle running on twin tracks, + Level playing field much like a locomotive, dubbed ‘Groundswell Technology’. Pro competition started in – Miles from the ocean September 2017 with the Future Classic and – Lack of wave variety May 2018 with the team oriented Founders – Elite access only Cup, before the world tour scheduled stop in 8– Chlorinated water September 2018. Home Surf Ranch Surf Ranch Description The foil displaces a pulse that propagates out at an obtuse angle to the pier, forming a single left or a right, depending on which direction the foil is travelling down one side of the 600m pool. The resulting wave breaks back toward the fenced-off pier, conjuring rides up to 45 seconds with extremely long, hollow barrel sections, perfectly mimicking the best-shaped ocean waves found in the wild. The lips carry plenty of power and it’s a high speed tube-ride that is sometimes difficult to read, with subtle differences possible on consecutive waves. The rights offer tube time up to 15 seconds on the first section, with a shorter but faster cover- up at the end of the wave. Lefts typically offer a ripable wall with more crumbling lip on the outside followed by a rapid tube on the inside. There is at least a 3 min turn-around to allow the pool to settle from the previous wave. While the prototype is firmly aimed at elite-level surfers, the wave technology is flexible and can also create variable waves for beginner and intermediate surfers. n oltzma h mark Home

Landes France eBooks The 230km coastline called the Côte Quiksilver Pro France d’Argent is the longest uninterrupted Men’s & Women’s: 3rd Oct – 13th Oct stretch of sandy beach in Europe. Venue: Hossegor Swells are focused then refracted on to the coast near Hossegor by a deep-water canyon, which helps shape sandbars that hold world-class Summary beachbreaks. These exceptionally + Top-quality beachbreaks powerful, hollow, perfect peaks have + Hollow consistent waves attracted the world’s best competitive + Empty peaks to find surfers and the European surf + Summer party scene industry to this corner of France. Big currents, large tidal ranges and – Strong rips extreme wind exposure do little to – No sheltered spots deter the ever-growing crowds of – Frequent onshores riders looking for some of the best These Stormrider Surf – Summer crowds beachbreaks on the planet. Guide eBooks cover this 9 region – CLICK TO BUY Home Landes

Characteristics

SIZE SWELL BOTTOM TYPE TIDE WIND e6  h 5 o 4 W-N SAND PEAKS ALL E

Characteristics Sited on an old gravel pit, this is the legendary Hossegor tube spot. Like all transient Landes sandbars, La Grav has its good years and bad years, but it’s reliable enough to be the venue of choice for the annual pro-surfing competitions. Sometimes white-caps outside, rolls in and reforms, standing up over the shallow inside bars. Heavy, thick-lipped beasts, break perilously close to shore and often close-out, snapping more boards than just about anywhere. Tidal range radically affects the window for ideal conditions, as does swell period, which decides if it is messy and inconsistent or lined-up and bombing through. The rip speed usually rises in direct proportion with the swell height and on big days, only the tow crew will be able to get into the sets before

ot being swept south in the current. Humbling for n all, including the barrel experts and the pros.

lle Spectator spot when big and usually rammed u when smaller. po n La Gravière

amie magicseaweed forecast d Home Landes Other Breaks La Salie has incredibly fast-shifting sandbars around the outer low tide bars that can be fast and hollow in sections. 800m long wharf, plus some good bodyboard shorebreak Seems to favour rights as the sand goes with the flow from just to the north and more banks down at the blockhaus. N-S. Quiet Mimizan-Plage produces enough good waves D106 D215 Popular summer resort town Biscarrosse-Plage offersD3 on either side of the rivermouth that helps sculpt some Andernos-Les-Bains D106 typical shifting bars, from high tide thumping shories to organisedN250 sandbars, particularly from mid to high tide. The Basin Lanton d'Arcachon D3 Contis-Plage lighthouse provides a birds eye view of the best Arcachon Gujan- A63 Cap-Ferret Mestras Biganossandbanks, especially those to the north, close to the bunker or rivermouth. Cap de L’Homy features more straight Cap Ferret Teste A660 Mios Barp D259 beachbreak that benefits from some swell angle or chopped GIRONDE up summer windswells. More performance oriented waves La Salie q3hw Pointe d'Arcachon D4 A63 6 perfect for beginner/intermediates. With 12km of beachbreak

8 Étang de 1 Cazaux et de to choose from, St-Girons Plage serves up something in D2 Sanguinet Sanguinet betweenN1 Hossegor0 barrels and average beachbreak walls. Biscarrosse-Plage Biscarrosse-Plage q3h5 D146 Favourite of foreign surfers and naturists with 2 massive Saugnacq- Biscarrosse campingLe Muret sitesEt-Mure andt surf hire/schools for beginners. Moliets rel Parentis- PlageN10 soaks up the summer crowd on very shifty sandbanks u Étang de en-Born Biscarrosse et Moustey de Parentis that often shut down. High tide is usually no good. The Huchet mas Gastes Ychoux Pissos t

Sainte-Eulalie-en-Born n D46 N10 D626

Pontenx-les-Forges re Lüe N134 q4h5 Mimizan-Plage Le Penon u Saint-Paul- North Landes Mimizan-Plage q3h5 D626 en-Born Labouheyre Mimizan D626 Seignosse la le Penon Bias Escource Les Bourdaines q5h5 D38 Cap de Pin 2 5 D79 D6 River mouth from Leon Lake can shape some nice lower double overhead. Attracts huge summer crowds to the water Contis-les-Bains le Pley Contis-Plage q3h5 le Tuc tide sandbars. Typical Landes plage, Messanges displays park, fairground rides and tourist shops. Les Bourdaines is Saint-Julien- Mézos en-Born Laharie Les Estagnots q5h5 all moods of wave from onshore crumbly mess to morning probably the most popular and consistent spot in Seignosse. q3h5 Lit-et-Mixe Morcenx D86 Cap De L'Homy D152 A-frame barrels, depending on the luck of the sandbars. Stable sandbanks have forged this reputation over the years Levignacq Arengosse Estagnots D38 Fond du Lac High tide will often kill it when small. North side of the lake and there always seems to be a defined left/right just south LANDES w6h5 q3h5 Saint-Girons Les Cul Nuls entrance at Vieux Boucau has fast, hollow peaks on higher of the path and multiple peaks up towards Penon. Dead high r St-Girons Plage D79

652

D Rion-des-Landes ego tides, but heavy longshore rips at headhigh plus. Port d’Albret tide will be a struggle when small and diagonal super rips can les Semis s Linxe e6h5 s Castets La Gravière 'Ho on the south side leads into the Soustons stretch and has good hold up the close-outs when the faces exceed 8ft. Top quality Leon Saint Michel c d Moliets Plage q3h5 Moliets-et-Maa Taller La Nord w8h5 La shape for kilometers. Handles more size than the breaks to peaks appear when a good W-NW swell hits the sand at Les Laluque N124 N10 Tartas Hossegor q3h5 Messanges the north. Casernes campsite-fed beach access marks the Estagnots. Handles a bit more size than Bourdaines and Messanges Vieux-Boucau- Pontonx- Front les-Bains D924 de Mer northern limit of the Seignosse beaches. When the sand lines Penon, but expect severe long-shore drift when bigger. High Vieux Boucau q4h5 Sur-l'Adour La Sud w4h5 D652 Magescq Cassen up, it can produce those speedy, lip smacking walls across a tide inside banks can be hollow and fast. Always a crowd and Plage des Soustons L'Estacade w3hs Casernes D79 handful of mid tide sandbars. Despite the 500m walk from the odd combative local. Les Cul Nuls is the link between q4h5 N124 Dax w4hw Casernes Le Pénonénnon Le Prévent the car park and campground, it is often just as crowded as the normal beachbreaks to the north and the heavy barreling Les Estagnotsnots Seignosse Saint-Geours- Capbreton D652 SEE HOSSEGOR MAP de-Maremne w5hs Hossegoregororr D33 Mimbaste Le Santocha everywhere else. Le Penon often holds some really good shories of La Graviere (see venue). Usually better at mid to Saint-Vincent- la Savane 2 de-Tyrosse 15

Capbretonetetoonon w5h5 D 2

2 D947 higher tide shorebreaks that entertain the mix of locals and high tides with a moderate swell, because of the steeper beach

52 Bénesse- D33 D6 La Piste/VVF les Dunes D6 Maremne Lembreye travellers. Unmanageable rips and impossible paddle-outs at angle. Occasionally lines-up some long outside rights into Labenne Amou Tilh A63 Labatut Biarrotte N10 Boucau N117 Sorde-l'Abbaye D947 4 Bayonne A6 D933 A64 Orthez Biarritz Urt Bidache Home Landes Travel Info Swell and Wind – Consistent, high- Lodging and Food – Hossegor equinox tides move fast. Beware of latitude W-NW swells can reach up and Capbreton have multiple the extremely powerful rips; many to 15ft, but the straight coastline has accommodation options for all visitors drown every year. In the no protection from the dominant NW budgets. There are dozens of summer winter, beaches get plenty of trash and winds. As a cold front approaches, surf camps/retreats/schools. Further driftwood from the ocean. Driving winds usually clock around from the up the coast, holiday rentals, VVF’s and parking are tricky from mid July SW to WNW, blowing-out the surf and campgrounds are the go. to late August. Look out for thieves for several days with wet and windy Campervans will be fined for free- and vandals when parking in forest conditions. When a high pressure camping beach car parks during spots. Respect the large Hossegor system sits over the land, morning summer. Try cheaper Aire de Camping surf community, who are amazingly offshores are followed by a moderate municipal sites. A typical restaurant tolerant, considering the huge NW sea breeze that blows from noon bill is $20, not including wine. Seafood increases in numbers every summer. ot until dusk. The 4.5m tide factor is in Capbreton is big and foie gras n crucial and as the saying goes “If the along with duck dishes are regional Handy Hints – There is a thriving

lle waves look good, you’ve probably favourites. surf industry at the Z.A. Pédebert in u missed it”. Soorts Hossegor, where you can get

po Nature and Culture – Golf, sailing, boards repaired, find a shaper and n Weather – The Pyrenees mountains beach fishing, lake SUP, jet-skiing, shop in one of the many factory outlets La Piste greatly influence the southern water slides and skate parks plus for all the big surf brands. You need amie Landes weather bringing regular crazy summer parties are some of a gun only for serious La Gravière or d annual rainfall. Winters can be the distractions. Rockfood is the most La Nord. Surf schools are everywhere. damp and cool, until stable weather popular tourist bar right on the beach Boardingmania offer single lesson and rips, otherwise it’s powerful action close to shore. La Nord is winter swells concentrate surfers at Le Prévent, fighting for arrives from March to October. at Front de Mer, Hossegor. Winter is week long training camps. Try to learn usually the only rideable beachbreak north of Capbreton when one of the steep, sucky, sand-churning slammers that might March-April can have occasional mellow as anything up to 75% of the some French; it will be appreciated. the swell heads towards 3m on the Biscay buoy. The shifting, just hold up enough for a short, fast ride. There’s often a left warm spells, but spring is usually region’s coastal zone outside bank holds triple overhead plus and favours rights into into the rips near the southern groyne and a stable right at windy with squalls, rain and choppy housing stock are swells. May and June are good second homes and STATISTICS J F M A M J J A S O N D the rip torn paddling channel. Steep drops and fast walls with the north end. Plenty of close-outs and terrible backwash on SWELL barrel sections mean extra inches are a good idea. Can work high tide. Le Santocha is the most regularly surfed wave months despite the cooler water. often remain empty Direction       Summers can get some hot days until the warmer Size (ft) 7-8 6-7 5 3 6 7

at all tides but mid is the best bet. Heavy water when the rips in Capbreton, since it picks up swells that close-out the open WI before the sea breeze cuts in. Autumn months. are in full flow and La Nord is always crowded, often with the beaches and forms up nice, fat peaks. Good drops followed ND Direction local SUP crew. Beside the rivermouth jetty, La Sud is always by slopey walls and close-out inside section. A righthander weather can be perfect with cool Force F5 F5 F4 F3 F3 F5 smaller and easier to handle than anywhere to the north. tends to form along the groyne and it gets much hollower the mornings, warm daytime temps and Hazards and WATER Wetsuit Far less current and a fuller wave profile gives beginner/ further south you drift. La Piste/VVF is one of the most comfortable water temps. Take a 4/3 Hassles – Getting 5 5 3 2 3 3 fullsuit for winter, a 3/2 for mid- to the right spot improvers somewhere to surf away from the rippers. Plenty of photographed beaches on the coast, thanks to perfect barrels Temp/ºC 12 13 17 21 18 15 straighthanders and turns into an unsurfable shorebreak on being regularly on offer for those that can handle the air drops season, and a shorty or boardies before the short WEAT Rainfall/mm 82 55 63 63 84 102 and some solid floggings amongst the packs of gifted locals for the warmer days that can reach window for optimum days/mth 15 13 12 11 13 16 high tide. Tucked along the port’s south jetty, L’Estacade is H the ultimate shelter with laughable size compared to exposed and tube-hungry visitors. From low to mid tide is prime time, 24ºC (75ºF). tide is crucial as ER Min temp/ºC 2 5 11 14 10 4 Max temp/ºC 10 16 22 26 21 11 beaches. Handles some N wind. Sometimes full and bloated, when the swell focuses on banks that seem to have a bit more spring and autumn occasionally sucky and closing-out, but never perfect. Stronger punch and urgency than just about anywhere in Hossegor. Home

Peniche Portugal eBooks The little fishing town of Peniche is not the Meo Rip Curl Pro Portugal prettiest spot on the Portuguese coast, but Men’s & Women’s: 16th Oct – 28th Oct it’s probably the most renowned surfing Venue: Peniche area in the country. Originally an island, Peniche became one with the mainland due to the silting up of the shallow channel that divided it from the rest of the country. Summary Today that short and narrow spit of land + Wide swell window contains an obscene amount of wave variety + Flexible wind/swell combos that can provide the goods in almost any + Quality beaches and reefs conditions. Most famous is Supertubos, + Cheap Euro destination regarded by many as one of Europe’s best beach breaks, but there are plenty of other – Summer onshores barrels to pull into around Peniche. Just – Increasingly crowded to the north, rising out of the submarine – Cool water year-round canyon, Nazaré detonates some of the These Stormrider Surf – Sardine factory stink! biggest, scariest waves on the planet. Guide eBooks cover this 10region – CLICK TO BUY Home Peniche

Characteristics

SIZE SWELL BOTTOM TYPE TIDE WIND e4  h 5 o 1 S-NW SAND PEAKS ALL nE

Characteristics The name speaks for itself! World-class spot and undoubtedly the best beachbreak in Portugal, Supertubos has become a favourite stop on the world pro tour and a perfect warm-up for Pipeline. Long, heavy, gas-filled tubes are guaranteed as well as a few shut-down close- outs, such is the speed of this wave. The lefts are usually better, but plenty of shorter rights peel off the main peak, especially in NW conditions. It’s at its best with NE winds, a decent SW swell and mid-tide, but these conditions don’t come around everyday. There can be a few lesser peaks further along the beach to help dilute the concentration of bodyboarders and local tube-seekers, but there’s no escaping the mega crowds or the foul smell from the nearby fish factory. Easy parking in front of the break, but theft from vehicles is commonplace. bravo o d Supertubos

magicseaweed forecast ricar Home Peniche Other Breaks Travel Info sprinkled reef. Low tide is sharp and shallow and high tide a

rel little bouncy at this consistent crowded favourite. The long, Swell and Wind – Portugal is the Serra da Estrela (the snow resorts are when the tour comes to town. Don’t let u curving, scalloped Praia do Baleal is offshore in any S European yardstick for year-round only reliable in February). The best the fish factory stench put you off the winds. The centre of the beach gathers plenty of swell whilst consistency, and Peniche stylishly climate occurs during the change over national dish of grilled sardines. mas the corners are good on big and windy days, attracting many

t handles the regular NW swells. seasons, even though mid-summer

n surf schools. It takes a big SW swell and N winds to awaken Average swell size is around 8-10ft rarely gets too hot on the coast. The Nature and Culture – Don’t miss

re Molho Leste’s wedging peak beside the harbour wall. The in winter and summer is usually in Nortada (north winds) always cool Obidos, the fortified city to the east. u thick righthand barrels require expertise to manage the air the 4-6ft range. Storms are pretty things down and conspire with the Take a trip to the Berlenga islands,

la drops and speed to beat the crunching lip. Rippy, localised frequent, but the peninsulas give cold Canarian Current to prevent the a bird-filled National Park, with nice spot. Supertubos has become a regular stop on the world flexibility during different wind and water from ever reaching boardshorts beaches and snorkelling. pro tour and a perfect warm-up for Pipeline. Long, heavy, swell combinations. The Nortada is temperature. A light 2/2 or 3/2 gas-filled tubes are guaranteed as well as a few shut-down the dominant wind, blowing from steamer will do except in mid-winter Hazards and Hassles – close-outs, such is the the NW-N from April to September. when a 4/3 and boots are necessary. Portuguese bodyboarding is big, and speed of this wave. Winter winds come from all directions August can see any temp between 17- it’s the bodyboarders who control the The lefts are usually Nazaré e0h5 but the standard pattern sees more 22ºC (63-72ºF) and March can drop to line-ups, particularly at Molho Leste better, but plenty of Nazaré Nazaré IC9 NE-E winds and the occasional storms 13ºC (56ºF). and Lagide. The atmosphere in the shorter rights peel off bringing S-SW winds. Max tidal range water is cool. the main peak, especially hits 3.6m and affects where you surf. Lodging and Food – Unless it’s Praia Nova Nazaré has become a global big-wave phenomenon, thanks in NW conditions. It’s at its high season (June-Sept), finding Handy Hints – There are a handful of to a finger of deep water that points directly at the beach, best with NE winds, a decent Praia do Salgado 2 N24 Weather – The climate in Portugal quartos (rooms) or flats in Baleal/ surf shops in Peniche with good boards Cela beckoning some of the largest surfable waves on the planet SW swell and mid-tide, Gralha Famalicão is very pleasant year-round. Ericeira Peniche is easy, ask at the tourismo available; try Surfers Lab. Waves on to smash onto the sands of Praia Norte. Huge, heavy and but these conditions and Peniche are in the middle of or try the pensaoes on Rua Jose the south side of the peninsula break 1 sometimes hollow beach peaks for the insanely brave. don’t come around São Martinho do Porto IC N8 Facho the country, stuck between the dry Estevao in the old town. Baleal Surf harder than the more crumbly waves Currents can be strong, and giant clean up sets are guaranteed Salir do Porto Algarve and the damp regions north Camp has 2 prime locations and a on the north side. There are lots of surf Alfeizerão when it’s on, which isn’t that often as it’s fully wind-exposed. of Porto. The wettest season starts well-respected surf school. A meal schools at Baia and Baleal Surf Camp The main town beach offers a sheltered little in November and lasts until March- costs around $12. Tasca do Joel is the do lessons and rentals. Foz do Arelho w3h5 wedge on big swells. The huge wind and Serra do Bouro April, and there is even snow in the restaurant frequented by the pros swell exposed beach at Foz do Arelho is punctured by a couple of small ESTREMADURA E rivermouths that form good Ferrel w3h5 Foz do Arelho STATISTICS J F M A M J J A S O N D Praia do Foz SWELL do Arelho N3 RIBATEJO banks with minimal crowds. Lagide w4lb 6 8 everyday. There can be a few lesser peaks further along the Direction       0 N It’s basically the same Praia do Baleal w3h5 beach to help dilute the concentration of bodyboarders and Size (ft) 5-6 5-6 4 3 4-5 5-6

Caldas da Rainha WI beach 10km south at local tube-seekers, but there’s no escaping the mega crowds. N114 ND Direction IC1 -1 Ferrel, where the A long, fat right that gets seriously big, breaks to the south Force F2 F2 F2 F2 F3 F3 Cabo Carvoeiro N114 shifting peaks are Baleal of Consolação headland, while to the north is a much more WATER Wetsuit Peniche Ferrel A15 super-consistent N8 fickle but hollow left. Both waves are very heavy and the right 5 5 3 3 3 3 IP6 Molho Leste r4hs Atouguia N115 until the N winds Praia do Medao 6 IP6 has good N wind shelter. Further south down towards the Supertubos e4h5 da Baleia Amoreira IP Temp/ºC 13 14 16 18 17 15

Serra d'El-Rei WEAT

shred it. The EriceiraIC2 zone are a series of long beaches and the occasional Rainfall/mm 90 80 30 4 31 100 1 Consolação r7ld IP6 IC Obidos languid Lagide Praia da Consolação mediocre reef. Check from Areia Branca to Santa Cruz in small days/mth 10 8 4 1 6 10

Lourinhå H left is a long ride over Praia da São Bernandino Roliça summer swells, plus Praia Azul for a quiet, consistent, high ER Min temp/ºC 8 11 14 17 15 9 a shallow, urchin- quality beachbreak with some wind shelter. Max temp/ºC 15 19 23 28 25 16 N8-4 N361 Landal IC11 N247-1 N247-1 N8 N115 IC1 Areia Brancã Bombarral N115 Moita dos Ferreiros Atalaia Lourinhã N361 Vermelha Praia de Barcas N361 N361 Casal Nova N366

Praia de Ribeiro N247 A8

Ribamar N361-1 N115-1 IC11 N8 N115

Praia de Porto Novo Porto Nova Campelos Outeiro Vimeiro da Cabeça

N8 IC2 N247 A8 A dos Cunhados N115-2 Santa Cruz IC11 Ramalhal N8-2 Praia Azul Silveira N247

N9 Azenha Velha N115-2 LISBOA Ota N9 São Pedro Torres A8 da Cadeira Vedras IC2 N9 Barril Porto da Calade N248 N9 Talefe Encarnação N247 Dois Portos Alenquer Freiria A1 Ribamar A8 Sobral de Monte Agraço N374 N3 Santa Isidoro N248 IC2 N9 N9-2 Ericeira N115 N116 Arruda dos Vinhos

N8 Carvoeira N9 A8 Vila Franca N248 de Xira Foz do Lisandro Mafra Milharado N374 N247 N116 A1 IC11 N9 N10-6 N116 Alhandra

N8 A9 IC2 Cheleiros Home

NorthwestHawaii Maui eBooks The legendary rights of Honolua and Hawaii Women’s Pro Maalaea are part of surfing’s heritage Women: 25th Nov – 6th Dec and now Jaws, the biggest name of all Venue: Honolua Bay can be added to Maui’s list of insane waves. It’s an island of contrasts, where lush green valleys give way to arid coastline, tropical fruits and flowers Summary meet barren lava and cactus, beneath + World-class spots the towering peaks that dominate the + Thinner crowds than Oahu landscape. The shroud of islands that + Wind/kitesurfing heaven include Molokai, Lanai and Kahoolawe + Amazing volcanic scenery block out some swell directions and there is an element of real luck and – Swell shadows timing to score the big names, but there – Strong trade winds is a back-up cast of consistent, quality – some Difficult access waves just waiting to keep the locals These Stormrider Surf – High prices and visitors stoked. Guide eBooks cover this 11 region – CLICK TO BUY Home Northwest Maui

Characteristics

SIZE SWELL BOTTOM TYPE TIDE WIND e8  l d o 1 W-NE unEVEN RIGHT ALL nE REEF POINT Description A combination of length and ultra-round cylindrical sections set in the beautiful, cliff-lined amphitheatre of Honolua Bay make it the most coveted of Maui spots. The first section, Coconuts, breaks in front of the cliffs with the most size, accompanied by the most wind as the trades are funnelled down the valley. It then hits Outside, a classic barrel before propelling the lucky towards Cave, the hollowest and most crowded section, where it loses size leading into the inner Keiki Bowl. The Bay works on NNE, N, NNW and W swell, while NW swells are blocked by Molokai unless it is big enough to wrap. Honolua is definitely a wave for only the most experienced surfers. The intensity of the crowds matches the North Shore. n klei h Honalua Bay

magicseaweed forecast jeremia Home Northwest Maui Other Breaks One of Hawaii’s most famous summer spots is Maalaea, low tide rights into the busy boat channel or rapid lefthand, sessions. A combination of length and ultra-round cylindrical broad amalgam of reefy peaks just off the golf course north of where a harbour breakwall has created a righthand wave high tide walls. Mala Wharf is a popular longboard and sections set in the beautiful, cliff-lined amphitheatre Kahului. Aspect means the trades mash the waves so early or that’s considered to be the fastest in the world, but it needs intermediate spot on both S or N swells, as it spokes around a of Honolua Bay (see venue). The clue is in the name kona winds required. Intermediate spot. The built-up area of a huge S-SW swell to break and is notoriously fickle. Use an reef opposite the disused concrete pier and shoulders off into and Windmills is very exposed to all wind and swell at this Kahului has some basic boulder beach peaks at Waiehu, but F1 fast board to make the drop, bottom turn and pump into deeper water. Roping rights skirt the reef at Rainbows on due north-facing set of reefs. Long lefts and a couple of rights just to the south, a brace of heavy localised reefs take plenty of a racetrack so crowded that there will probably be someone winter pulses from the north, serving up some barrel action pound the rocky shoreline and really need calm winds or N-NE swell, but need S-W winds. If the trades are blowing and dropping in with that chandelier section up ahead. Lahaina and grunty hooks, plus a shorter, bonus left barrel. Just south light S quadrant. Good check on small windswells, but still the swell is maxing, there just might be a clean wave inside the breaks all suffer from the split swell window so Shark Pit’s is Osterizers, another crisp A-frame that will always have for advanced riders only, especially at size. A track runs down Kahului Harbor, just a mile south. Water quality not great in shallow, slabbing lefts like the S-SW swells more and the less some takers. S-Turns clutch of lava and coral reefs offer some to a steep and deep bay at Honokohau, where a righthand this area. Kanaha is the start of the wind corridor, attracting hectic rights prefer the N swells. Lahaina Breakwall is an nice peaks in less than perfect conditions and away from the boulder-strewn reef to the east and some lefts on the other kite and windsurfers to this north-facing stretch of coast near excellent, swell-sucking reef that squeezes snappy left walls heavy crowds of the surrounding well-known spots. Little side, will both break on any N swell. By no means perfect the airport. Usually messy wild peaks roll onto the cross-shore and tubes from a S-SW pulse and high performance rights Makaha can do a fair impression of its Oahu namesake, with and maxes out when above double overhead, but a fun and outside reefs for the wind crew, but kona winds can transform when winter N penetrates the narrow gap between Maui and sharp drops into bowly sections down a long point-style reef changeable line-up without the thick crowds of other waves. both Kanaha and the better reefs up at Sprecklesville into Molokai. At Lahaina Harbour SW or N swells awaken either on the right N swell day when E-SE trades groom the mid tide Watch out for rocks and strong rips at size. Waihee is a picture perfect left and right walls with tube opportunities. Cleans up a treat in S-W kona winds and gives intermediates a real run for their money. All tides, but higher will see less

ot e5\g Honokohau tubes and close-outs. Baldwin Beach is a real assortment of n Windmills e6lt

Honolua e8ld Nakalele Point

lle Lipoa Point Baldwin Beach Park

u e6;d

Little Makaha Honokohau Spreckelsville H

Honolua o

n po Hawea Point H o Waihee o k n o Waiehu Kapalua o h l a n H u u o a Kahakuloa w4lt n Kanaha S-Turns o k lb a r6 h Kuau u Hakuhee Point a Kahana a r7 o l Peahi – Jaws u w3 e8lt k Hookipa a lt e5 o0lt h 340 e5 a amie w5lt ;5 Rainbows 30 K lt w2 e5lgPavilions d lg ;5 Honokowai Ho Waihee Point noka Waihee wai Waihee Hookipa Kuau Kaanapali Waiehu

Spreckelsville Paia w4lb a Mala Wharf om ah Kanaha K 32 Iao Lahaina Kahului 37 Waikapu Makawao Lahaina Harbour e5.t MauiMaui Lahaina Breakwall e6lt 380 e5lt Shark Pit Pukalani

311 30

310 Kula Maalaea

31

Hookipa Maalaea r4lg Kihei Home Northwest Maui Travel Info Swell and Wind – Unfortunately, Weather – Between day and night, Nature and Culture – Haleakala Maui is sheltered from many of the big winter and summer, temps vary little Crater is the world’s largest dormant SW, W, and NW swells by the smaller from a near perfect 25°C (77°F). It’s the volcano - see the sunrise from the neighbouring islands of Molokai, same story in the water, which hovers summit. Flat-day activities include Lanai and Kahoolawe, and the Big around 24°C (75°F) year-round. The mountain biking, windsurfing, diving, Island creates a very large shadow winter surf season has rainy periods, and whale watching. For nightlife, for the rare SE hurricane generated especially on S winds. When NE-E head to Lahaina or Kaanapali. swells from Central America. Maui trades blow, skies are usually clear. receives less swell and more wind than The west shore is much drier than the Hazards and Hassles – To avoid the North Shore on Oahu, but figures easterly windward coast. trouble with the locals, don’t surf the for swell consistency are 99% from big name spots at the busiest times of Nov to Feb, averaging 8-10ft at 12secs. Lodging and Food – the day. Don’t leave valuables visible ENE-E trades are dominant and Accommodation prices are generally in your car. frame - strongest from May to Aug, but winds higher on Maui than Oahu. Good a / can be much lighter in the mornings. bases are Haiku or Paia near Hookipa Handy Hints – There are plenty of The N coast needs ESE-S quadrant, in winter or Lahaina will have plenty surf shops in Paia, including Da Kine, but they only blow for 19% of the of options in summer like Nani Kai Hana Highway Surf and Honolua time in mid winter. Tidal range is Hale (fr $135 dbl). There are a couple Surf Co, or Ole’s in Lahaina, run by sargent Jaws small, but can have a drastic effect on of County Parks for camping near legendary shaper Bob Olsen. Honolua shallow spots. Tide tables are widely Hookipa. Avoid the low surf, tourist and others are real board snapping epes available in surf shops. resorts on the SW coast around Kihei. spots. Beginners should head to Nancy Food is also pricey ($35+ per meal) so Emerson’s surf school (fr $50/hr). waves for all types of crafts and abilities ranging from mushy downwind on the rights, leaving plenty of long, roping lefts self catering is a good idea. longboard peaks to crunching shoredump. Absorbs plenty for packs of surfers to fight over. Hookipa is super-consistent, of crowd and wind, continuing to break during moderate year-round, evidenced by the constantly jammed car parks of trades. Consistently breaks through the tide up to headhigh, the Hookipa Beach Park off the Hana Hwy. Rips, rocks and developed, Jaws has maintained the biggest and baddest tag, and out of the closed-out bay is a game of Russian roulette. giving the beginners a chance over the sand and patchy reef windy-rigs falling from a great height are all part of the deal. providing numerous winners for the XXL awards in almost Take binoculars, a long lens and watch from the cliffs. foundation. There’s more easy options next door at Paia The Pavilions section runs down the eastern point, crouched every category. Takes any N swell, with more W favouring Bay. Kuau is a proper all out barreling left that will challenge out of the wind and walling up beautifully into the defined the long lefts, but it is the perfect, house-sized right tubes STATISTICS J F M A M J J A S O N D SWELL most accomplished surfers and often win, thanks to its channel, making the paddle back out easy. Ultra-performance that most people associate with Jaws. Other waves have been Direction       shallow, unpredictable nature. Easily blown-out and lashed walls that can barrel off on low, over a well-covered reef. Won’t discovered that challenge Jaws on height supremacy, but Size (ft) 7 5 3-4 2-3 4-5 6 by currents, the long paddle keeps the local crowd down a bit. handle above double overhead, when Middles starts motoring, few can match its steroidal perfection. If you are thinking of WI ND Direction The sort of break where keeping your feet up seems a good and its fun, ripable nature makes it super-popular with the tackling this wave, you will need far more knowledge of the Force F4 F4 F4 F4 F4 F4

idea. Hookipa is home to some of the best wavesailing in the locals, to the exclusion of all others, including the windsurfers. spot than we can fit here and proper big wave experience so as WATER Wetsuit world, so expect strong cross-shore trade winds on most days Finally, Peahi – Jaws The most notorious spot on Maui is not to be a liability in the increasingly zooed line-up. A few of 1 1 1 1 1 1 after 11am. Hookipa is the centre of kite/windsurfing activity a wave most surfers are extremely unlikely to ride. With the the hazards include trade wind cross-chop and large speed- Temp/ºC 24 24 25 26 27 25 in Hawaii, but on windless mornings, this clutch of quality development of tow-in surfing in the early 90’s, Jaws burst bump ribs that traverse the face, swatting surfers like bugs on WEAT Rainfall/mm 90 55 17 18 35 65 reefbreaks is always rammed. Furthest west is Lanes lefts, onto the scene, amazing the world with the sheer magnitude a windshield. The impact zone is a washing machine all the days/mth 8 7 5 6 6 9 H then there’s shallow rights and lefts at the Point, just next of the waves that were being ridden there by a select group of way to the cliffs, regularly pulverizing boards, skis and bodies. ER Min temp/ºC 19 19 21 23 22 20 to the main peak of Middles. The sailors are usually forced windsurfing and surfing hell-men. As big wave surfing has Then there’s launching at Maliko Gulch, where punching in Max temp/ºC 26 27 29 29 30 27 Home

Oahu NorthHawaii Shore eBooks There is no denying that the North Shore of Oahu Billabong Pipe Masters is surfing’s Mecca. Its undisputed attractions Men’s: 8th Dec – 20th Dec challenge every surfer on the planet, including all Venue: Banzai Pipeline the pros, to find out if they have got what it takes. Conquering the fear of dropping into a bomb at Pipe, or paddling over the edge of a Waimea cliff represent the zenith of the surfing experience. Summary There’s no continental shelf or barrier reef to + The proving ground dampen the force of the powerful swells that + Seven Mile Miracle come thundering out of the North Pacific and + Mythical surf culture slam into the world’s most famous surf zone. + Great spectator arena Reverentially dubbed ‘The Seven Mile Miracle’ this short, savage coastline between Haleiwa – Dangerous conditions and Velzyland has it all from kiddies reforms to – Amazing crowd pressures tow-in monsters. Most spots break on lava reef – Not suitable for beginners close to golden sand beaches with deep channels, These Stormrider Surf – Expensive which make paddling out easier but also create Guide eBooks cover this 12some strong rips in larger surf. region – CLICK TO BUY Home Oahu North Shore

Characteristics

SIZE SWELL BOTTOM TYPE TIDE WIND r8  l t o 7 W-n unEVEN REEF ALL SE REEF PEAK Description The most famous peak on the planet explodes onto an uneven, lava- slab reef a scant 80m offshore, forming the benchmark by which all other waves are measured. The left at Pipe is best awakened by swells with a generous helping of W in them, as too much N will cause a grisly shutdown over the dangerous, cave-pocked section of the reef. Outer reefs filter, bend and reform arriving swells, focusing energy and extra height on the peak, before abruptly releasing a lip that guillotines mercilessly along the first section until the explosion of spit heralds the shoulder and room for a turn or two. When the swell direction heads beyond NW, Backdoor swings open and welcomes the best tube-jockeys to an expansive room, but the door often slams shut across this tract of ultra-shallow, incongruous reef. Air drops are the only way in if you want the inside at Backdoor and ideal conditions include mid tide, ESE wind and headhigh to double-overhead faces (3-6ft Hawaiian). The lack of a paddling channel means it’s often better to take the rip north and utilise the more defined access to the left, but expect serious beatings from the steroidal lips and whitewash. The legion of hazards is eclipsed by one defining factor - the crowd. This is the most sought after ride on the planet and normal rules don’t apply. Avoid speculation, hesitation, lip-launches, trips over the falls and eye contact with the crew who will burn you into the pit of Pipeline purgatory. craig Pipeline n a y magicseaweed forecast r Home Oahu North Shore Other Breaks The town of Haleiwa provides a variety of facilities and protection from unruly N swells and gusty NE trades. After righthander that can be perfect when a N swell meets a light E rolling waves to the north at Rightovers and Leftovers, plus amenities and is the commercial centre of the North Shore as slamming the exposed outside point, swells filter into a shelf wind at mid tide. When it finally fires, surfers descend, some suckier action at Alligator Rock. Tricky, rock-hopping well as being the breeding ground for many of the best that sucks hard and barrels before letting up and drifting into looking for their share of one of the North Shore’s best rights, entry and exit keeps the crowds manageable. You would expect Hawaiian talents, both past and present. Pulling up at the Ali’i the deep channel. NW swell and mid tide is best for the as it combines down-the-line speed with cylindrical beauty, Marijuanas to be a mellow spot and compared to the Beach Park on a small day may be deceptive as broken peaks dominant right while lefts appear when the swell is more W. especially on the inside wedge sections. Some lefts in W swells smoking bombs further north it is, yet it can still spin off a look easy, but when an overhead W-NW swell hits, a The rip can be nasty and sharks patrol the harbour entrance. as the line-up breaks up, but going against the grain will challenging, powerful right jumps the reef, outputting All the information you need is in the name. Avalanche is a involve some punishment over a reef prone to baring its teeth lightning fast walls and hollow hooks through to a shallow, proper bombproof bombora, rearing up from the depths to above water-level. Way offshore from Lani’s, a predominant inside shutdown section called the Toilet Bowl. Crazy crowds rumble left into a death or occasional glory end shack section. left peak entices the self assured to take on this scary, shifting r5lt are guaranteed as is getting plenty of sets on the head trying to Best watched from the safety of Haleiwa unless packing jet monster called Himalayas. W-NW swells will wall lengthy Velzyland y0lt fight the ever-present rip. The rights of Puaena Point propulsion or equipment and attitude to handle the power rips, lefts, while N will see rights off the peak, throwing up wildly Backyards Waiale' e (Puni’s) break into the Haleiwa boat channel, offering random set shifts and limitless size range. Laniakea is a rare fluctuating wave-heights and only experienced watermen will Sunset y9lt handle the rips and clean-ups. Jocko’s is a sucky affair when a Rocky Point e5lt W-NW swell unfurls over coral heads and a gruesome, lava Ehukai w3;t d r8lt rock-strewn reef. Both the take-off peaks are steep and rapid, Pipeline & Backdoor Sunset Paumalu iel leading to mist exhaling tubes or wailing speed walls to Off the Wall e3lt h

s another inside bowl section before the safety of the deep y6lb

Rockpile channel. Bonus right off outside suck leads to a rocky Log Cabins y0lg minefield. Handles plenty of size until the channel closes out rew to Chun’s and the really strong out-going rip makes getting

nd Pupukea back to the beach an effort. One of the more improver-friendly a spots on the North Shore, Chun’s welcomes any swell onto three sections of Waimea Bay p0lg righthand reef. The Waimea Bay Waimea outside, middle and bowl Marijuanas e3lg all feature nice roll-ins, shredable walls and some Chun's e6lg inviting tubes in places. Jocko's y8lb Best on small NW swells Himalayas u0lt y w e6lg H with any trade wind Laniakea a h e m a h direction and even e m a handles a bit of S wind. K There’s a sneaky left off 200 Puaena the middle section, but the Point 400 t6lt paddle back out is no fun. Puaena Point 600 Avalanche p0lb Absolutely always Waialua Bay 800 e8lg crowded since it’s in full Haleiwa 1000 view of the Kam Highway, Kaiaka Point Kaiaka Bay Haleiwa plus it’s an easy, yet long Laniakea paddle using the rip to the Waialua left. There are easier Home Oahu North Shore

perfect lefts peel back towards Backdoor and may offer visitors built up just right, giving less confident surfers a forum for more of a chance of actually catching a wave. Pipeline & turns, airs and barrels, when peaky headhigh N swells bounce Backdoor (see venue) form the most famous peak in the around this Pupukea stretch that also includes the shallow world. No other spot on earth quite matches the full Pipeline spitting pits of Gas Chambers. All amenities at the Ehukai experience - the power, the barrels, the crowds, the glory, the Beach Park area. The modest lava jut of Rocky Point is a humility...... this is quintessential North Shore. Small day reef swell magnet and a jam-packed theatre of progressive school peaks at Ehukai offer some respite from the power of surfing, logged by the ever-present surf photographers lining adrenaline-pumping surrounding waves, but not necessarily the beach. The rights reel off in N swells while the handful of from the incessant crowds. Lefts and rights over the wildly speedy lefts prefer more W-NW. It’s very consistent in all small uneven lava shelf can be hollow and epic when the sand has to moderate swells and the curve of reef allows for some wind shield

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Waimea u la speedy, walled right across a shallow-ish reef offering cover- a meaty and often sketchy left. Heavily reliant on sand ups and lip-bashing potential. Waist high to overhead NW deposition, Rockpiles is notorious for lava fingers popping up swells and a bit of protection from the NE trades make it a when surfing it small, or when getting a beating paddling out. tasty little number away from the crush. Halfway up the North Therefore it’s safer from mid and works in all N swell Shore, the Kam Highway swings wide around a bay called directions above headhigh and E-SE trades. There are some Waimea – the spot that has set the standard for big wave rights that head over towards Log Cabins, but the risk versus surfing for over 50 years. Log Cabins is an underrated right reward balance is all wrong. Crowds are lighter than Pipe, that shifts around a lot over an ill-defined reef, relying on especially at size, but some say the consequences are heavier - peaky N swells to prevent it from shutting down violently. It be very sure of your ability. Off-The-Wall (a.k.a Kodak Reef) breaks over a treacherous lava bottom that has sharp, is the classic, high quality, super-crowded, right sprint that’s upthrusting fingers and sand fills the gaps in places. Way been a favourite with photographers since the ‘70s. Separated outside is Outer Log Cabins, a notorious tow-in reef that has from Pipe by a short channel, swells need to arrive with N in held some of the biggest waves ever ridden. A good distance them to get the rights opening up over what is essentially a offshore lies a series of reefy protuberances that catch a NW straight bit of reef. Shallow and unforgiving, but barrels Off-The-Wall swell and conduct it back towards Off-The-Wall in the shape of guaranteed at mid-tide on an overhead NW swell. Smaller, less Home Oahu North Shore Temae Travel Info Swell and Wind – The winter Weather – Between day and night, through the Dole plantation outside season can extend as far as from Oct winter and summer, temps vary little of Haleiwa. The Hele Huli Adventure to May, but January holds the aces from a near perfect 25°C (77°F). Sea Center at Turtle Bay does surfing, in the historical stats. Average swell surface water temps hover between stand up paddleboarding, golf, tennis, height is 12ft, average period is 12secs 25-29ºC (77-84°F), but winter kona helicopter tours, horse riding, hiking, and there are virtually no flat days! fronts and a bit of upwelling will see biking, fishing, glass bottom kayaking, Peaks hit 27ft and 18secs respectively lows of 24°C (75°F) at times. When whale watching and more. Check out and the dominant E wind gusts to NE-E trades blow, skies are usually the Polynesian Cultural Center, Oahu’s 20mph (32kmh) at least 1 day in 3. clear. biggest cultural attraction over on the November, December and February windward side. figures are very similar, just a little Lodging and Food – The only less swell consistency and a bit more North Shore hotel is the Turtle Bay Hazards and Hassles – Drowning, NE wind. From April to September, Resort (from $199/n - 5th night free). collisions with the reef, heavy rips, the North Shore is generally flat. NE Most people stay at Backpackers flying boards and angry locals will wind is more sideshore, so if it gets Vacation Inn and Plantation Village all keep you on your toes! Surf the strong, it will mess up the waves. near Waimea (dorm bed from $27/n; low-key spots and be patient and S-W kona winds occur periodically private dbl rooms $62-$85/n; studio cautious in the line-up. Car rip-offs in winter when a large frontal $120-$145/n; Cabins sleep 4-8p $160- are common so leave nothing in it and

ellis system associated with a deep low $290; 10% off weekly rates.), B&B’s in leave it unlocked.

t pressure appears to the W or NW of Haleiwa (fr $37/d) or rent a flat (from n Hawaii. This can bring large swells, $600/w for 4 people). Winter is high Handy Hints – Plenty of surf shops, Sunset and Backyards accompanied by wind and rain for a season. Food is not cheap: $20 for a both in Town (see South Shore) and gra day or two before returning to trade basic meal or buy it at Foodland. Country (North Shore). Haleiwa has winds from the opposite direction. the biggest concentration; pick up a variation from NE-S depending on what section you are riding. unmakeable sections before the wave fattens out into the While the max tidal range at Haleiwa Nature and Culture – Hike board designed for the local waves. Access path from the giant wood statue on Kamehameha Hwy. channel. The real difficulty is trying to get a bomb set off the never exceeds 2ft (0.6m), it is enough to Kaena Point or hit the Kahuku Don’t drop-in! Past Kammieland, a fun near-shore peak opposite Kammies entrenched local crew on large boards who dominate, leaving to cause real changes at many breaks. Sugarmill disco. Historic train tours Market, the famous Sunset Beach starts its curve mere mortals to dodge the bullets on the inside. 15ft Hawaiian northwards. Incorporating Vals, Inside Bowl, West Peak, for upper size limit when Outside Backyards sets start to wash STATISTICS J F M A M J J A S O N D

Middles and Sunset Point on the inside, this break has more through. Rips, phantom sets and the wide playing field help SWELL personalities than reality TV. Under headhigh, NE windswell dismantle the pack. Shallow when small at The Point, but it is adds to the heaviness. Almost a mile north of Sunset is Direction   Q Q   will still break at The Point, then overhead, W-NW swells start rare to bounce at size when depth increases and hold-downs Velzyland, perhaps the most localised and intensely crowded Size (ft) 8-9 6-7 3-4 1-2 4-5 7-8 WI

popping up over the fingers of reef at Middles, before double- are long rag-doll affairs in mid water at the West Bowl. spot on the strip. Outer reefs like Phantoms filter the swell size ND Direction overhead awakens Inside Bowl and maybe West Peak on a long Scattergun peaks stalk the exposed, wide reef flanking Sunset, before it reforms and lurches onto a sharp lava reef, spinning Force F4 F4 F4 F4 F4 F4 period W-NW swell. Sunset’s default mode is unpredictable as providing a crowd-free option for those willing to take the fast right bowls and shreddable walls before hitting a WATER Wetsuit N swells will break up along the ragged hem of reef, while W inevitable beating Backyards is famous for. Extremely hard positively square inside barrel section. Less competitive, 1 1 1 1 1 1 will launch threatening slabs from wide, punishing the for paddle surfers to manage, it has become the domain of shorter lefts can be had, but there’s no paddle channel to get Temp/ºC 24 24 25 26 27 25 reckless in the turbulent inside. When the long, roller-coaster wind, kite and tow surfers when the swell jumps up. Outside back out. Mid tide, light SE and small to medium NW swell WEAT Rainfall/mm 90 55 17 18 35 65 rights lead into the hollow Inside Bowl, board, leash and body Backyards will suck in more ocean swell than Waimea and best. Experts or pros only and intermediates will be better off days/mth 8 7 5 6 6 9 H snapping power is apparent, with many shutdowns and 50ft + faces are on the cards. Shallow, urchin-covered reef at Freddyland across the channel. ER Min temp/ºC 19 19 21 23 22 20 Max temp/ºC 26 27 29 29 30 27 This ebook contains 11 surf NEW XL FORMAT – 33x25cm | 450 PAGES | LIMITED RUN HARDBACK EDITION zones out of 300+ included in The World Stormrider Surf Guide! • Largest collection of surf spot information ever compiled • Completely revised and updated text • Painstakingly researched and accurately mapped • The indisputable “mother of all surf guides” GET your copy here • Greatest global gallery of professional surf photographs • The only “must have” surf book on the planet

A r c t i c O c e a n d s

S ev ern ay a Z em F r a n z J o s e f L a n d lya

Laptev Sea Queen Elizabeth Islan ya Kara Sea P a rry Islands S v a l b a r d eml a Z New Siberian Islands ay Greenland Sea ov Greenland Sea N GREENLAND B e a u f o r t S e a East Siberian Sea Baffin Bay

Barents Sea Wrangel I.

Norwegian Sea SWEDEN ICELAND FINLAND RUSSI A ALASKA NORWAY CANAD A ESTONIA Hudson Bay Labrador Sea Bering Gulf of LATVIA SCOTLAND DENMARK Sea of Okhotsk Sea Alaska North Sea LITHUANIA ENGLAND IRELAND NETHERLANDS BRITISH BELARUS COLUMBIA N o r t h WALES GERMANY POLAND BELGIUM ONTARIO A t l a n t i c UKRAINE Vancouver Island NEWFOUNDLAND O c e a n FRANCE WASHINGTON MINNESOTA CROATIA WISCONSIN NOVA SCOTIA ROMANIA MAINE Black Sea OREGON MICHIGAN NEW ITALY BULGARIA GEORGIA YORK Corsica Hokkaido ILLINOIS ALBANIA RHODE ISLAND SPAIN NORTH Sea of Japan PORTUGAL TURKEY KOREA NEW JERSEY Sardinia Sicily (East Sea) CALIFOR DELAWARE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA VIRGINIA MARYLAND N o r t h Azores GREECE SOUTH N o r t h KOREA JAPAN Honshú NIA NORTH CAROLINA (PORTUGAL) Madeira TUNISIA MALTA CYPRUS SYRIA Yellow (PORTUGAL) A t l a n t i c Mediterranean Sea LEBANON CHINA Sea P a c i f i c SOUTH CAROLINA MOROCCO ISRAEL Kyu Shu Shikoku O c e a n O c e a n TEXAS GEORGIA Canary Islands ALGERIA East China LIBYA IRAN Sea FLORIDA (SPAIN) PAKISTAN EGYPT WESTERN SAHARA Gulf of Mexico THE BAHAMAS BANGLADESH HAWAII (USA) MEXICO SAUDI ARABIA Hawaiian Islands CUBA TAIWAN Kauai DOMINICAN INDIA MYANMAR Oahu Maui REPUBLIC (BURMA) BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS MAURITANIA Red OMAN Hainan Northern Mariana Hawaii JAMAICA ST MARTIN AND ST BARTHÉLÉMY Sea Bay of Luzon HAITI ANTIGUA Islands (USA) GUATEMALA PUERTO CAPE VERDE YEMEN Arabian Bengal THAILAND South RICO GUADELOUPE SENEGAL China MARTINIQUE GAMBIA Sea Guam (USA) MARSHALL ISLANDS C a r i b b e a n S e a BARBADOS Socotra Andaman VIETNAM Sea EL SALVADOR NICARAGUA GUINEA BISSAU GUINEA BENIN Islands PHILIPPINES TRINIDAD & TOBAGO GHANA NIGERIA Nicobar PANAMA SIERRA LEONE COTE COSTA RICA VENEZUELA D'IVOIRE TOGO Islands Mindanao GUYANA PALAU FEDERAL STATES iL SURINAME LIBERIA SRI LANKA CAMEROON SOMALIA MALAYSIA OF MICRONESIA en COLOMBIA FRENCH GUIANA MALDIVES Simeulue Sumatr Kiritimati EQUATORIAL GUINEA a l s I Galapagos REPUBLIC OF Nias (Christmas Island) SAO TOME & PRINCIPE KENYA Islands CONGO Mentawai KIRIBATI ECUADOR GABON DEM. REPUBLIC a PAPUA (ECUADOR) Fernando Islands NEW n do Noronha OF CONGO SEYCHELLES INDONESIA sd GUINEA SOLOMON TANZANIA Bali Sumbawa ISLANDS Marquesas BRAZIL TOKELAU Tu Java Rote TIMOR LESTE a I n d i a n Lombok TUVALU m PERU COMOROS Sumba (EAST TIMOR) American o ANGOLA SAMOA Samoa t u A WALLIS (USA) r O c e a n Coral Sea VANUATU & FUTUNA Cook c h i p Islands e l S o u t h French a g BOLIVIA MOZAMBIQUE FIJI NIUE (NEW ZEALAND) Polynesia o A t l a n t i c MAURITIUS Society (FRANCE) MADAGASCAR Islands PARAGUAY O c e a n NAMIBIA Reunion (FRANCE) QUEENSLAND TONGA Iles Gambier AUSTRALI A NEW CALEDONIA Pitcairn Islands (UK) Australes WESTERN SOUTH AUSTRALIA Rapa Nui SOUTH AUSTRALIA NEW Easter Island CHILE AFRICA SOUTH (CHILE) S o u t h WALES URUGUAY ARGENTINA A t l a n t i c VICTORIA Tasman Sea S o u t h P a c i f i c O c e a n North Island TASMANIA O c e a n NEW ZEALAND South Island

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