i~Il!Z(OJ~@ MTI~mIWi81~ ~ mAv • 1946 '' '' D~IYf 'f ffilIn BOY\ ! 0 0 o _ 0 0 0
At isolated sidings along the railroads or along lonely roads m the cat tl e country you come upon loading chutes. ~ore than lik ely they are deserted because only in the spring and fall when the cattle are on their way to market
are they used. They are practical, sturdy tools of the industry, built strong to
last , built stronger to hold jostling, frantic cattle; not built to pretty up the
landscape or please the architect's eye. They look so forlorn and forgotten when
you see t hem from the train window, all alone and away out from nowhere.
If you drive by them in your automobile, they are si lent and uncommunic ative , and on ly on close inspection will the ini tials of cowboys carved thereon remind
you t hat they are part of a business, the business of beef, and that in a distant way they are related to dinner tables all over the land and beyond the seas.
Sometime when you drive by , climb up on a rai l of the corral and carve
your initials, and maybe if it is a bright day with high white clouds you'll hear
a story of cattle and of men who work them . You'll hear about roundups and
and the hard drives from the ranges. There will be the smell of dust and the
good fine smell of catt le and horses and leather. Above the bawling of the cattle you'll hear the high hard yip! yips! of the cowhands. You'll feel the excitement for surely nothing could be as exciting as the final loading of cattle, the end of weeks of hard , plodding work. The work is fast and orderly. You wonder how
even the sturdy loading bins can contain such stomping and pushing and
crowding. When there i~ a pause you'll he ar the gossip of the ranges and you'll
learn about prices, markets and cattle brands. And the dust will fly high and
thick and 4 he air will be heavy with it .
Then it will all be over. The cattle cars or the trucks will have been loaded
and the noise of the angry cattle will grow dimmer and dimm er. The hands will
head back to the hills and the dust will sett le. Stillness and lon esomeness will
return to the scene and that forgotten, forlorn look will come back. By that time
you will ha ve finished your carv ing but you will have heard a story.-R. C. llRIZONll HIGHWflVS
"Civilization Follow s the Improved Highway" About this time of the year, in the deep desert, Spring is packing up her dresses The mag azine, Arizona Highways, is presented · by the and head ing for th e higher country. Summer, a steady an d well-paying guest people of Arizona to bring yo u in word and picture tbe story of our sta te , yesterday, today and tomorrow; to g uide for lo! these many years, ha s inform ed the management that reservations made a your p leasant journey through thi s smiling land of time long time ago will be taken and the operators of the desert resort have notified eno ugh and room eno ugh and to tell you of the unhurried life therein; to point your way to the distant places Spring to turn in her keys. You know how the housing situation is. throughout our great Southwest, which add to yo ur travels la! Spring is dancing her M ay dance where the clear, cold the spice of a dventur e and discovery; and, to share with So with a tra! la! you our priue in our own corner of America, the deep streams come down from the snow banks, where the mountain flowers play by the West, so ri ch in scenic enchantment, so colorful, so mem roadside. There are still many flowers in the desert, forsooth, and eve n now the orable it is beyond co mpar e ... saguaro and the ocotillo and th e palo verde are wearing- their very gayest blooms RAYMOND CAHLSON, Editor. Design but th e light touch of Spring is felt in the higher parts of our land more than ever. George M. Avey, The little peach trees on the Hopi mesas are green and bright in th e sun and the 1946 ~ No . 5 cottonwoods are singing of the summer months to come. !Vlay is a gay mon th and VOL. XXII ~ MAY, the May danc e is th e gayest and most colorful of all. SIDNEY P. OSBORN you to Ansel Adams, whose Speaking of co lor, it is about tim e we introduc e Governor of Arizqna photography has added so much to these pages and to whose work we do, to use a worn but descriptive phrase, point with pncte. lYir. Adams is a San 1s·ranciscan by ARIZONA HIGHWAY COMM ISSION m · the western lands by h a bit, by reputation and achiev eme nt habitat, a wanderer H. 0. Pac e, Chairman·-·---··-··-:------·--·--···-··--··Casa Grande photographers. Ed ucat ed as a musician, he one of America's most distin guis h ed (\farce ! N. Forman, Vice-Chairman ... ·-···-- -·····---·-···-·--Yuma in th1s conn ect ion took up photography as an adjunct to his hobby of mountaineering. J. M. Smith, Commissioner .. ·---·····----·-·-----····-·--·-·--Central that he first visited Yosemite in 19Hi and h as been identified with that area since Dewey Farr, Commissioner___···--·---·····--·-·····---··-·--·St. Johns year. His published work, either in photographs or text or both, includes such books JJern,,,·d MacDona ld, Commissioner···-----···-·--·-·--Kine;man as: The High Sierra, Taos .Pueblo, lV1aking a .Photograph, Sierra Nevada, Th e John Gene Eagles, Executive Secr etary· -····-----···---·····------Phoenix Muir Trai l, Illustrated Guide to Yosemite Valley, Michae l and Anne m Yosem it e VI/. C. Lefebvre, State Highway Engineer·-···---··-·Phoenix Va ll ey, Born Free and Equal, the story of the Japan ese-America ns at !Vlanzanar; K. G . Langmade, Specia l CounseL_··--·-·· ------··-----··--Phoenix and J:lasic-.l:'hoto Series, practical textbooks on applied photog raphy. He h as bee11 vice-chairman, advisory committee on Photography, 1Y1useum 01 !Vlodern Art, New York, and was director, photographic section, lJepartment of l<'ine Arts, San l<'ran cisco Golden Gate lnternational J!:xposit10n. ·l'his past year he has been in charge L£G£no of the Department of Photography, Calilornia School of 1,·ine Arts, at San .l:'ranc1sco. ln 1941-42 h e was commiss10ned by the lJ epartmen t of Int erior, VVashington, lJ. C., c; f\AND C1\NYON SKYSCAPE...... ___ .·······--·-·CovEn to do a series of photo-murals for the Department of Interior lfoilding and has just Anspl Adams hnppened by the Sout h Rim of Grand been awarded a fellowship by the John Simon Guggenheim Memonal Foundation Canyo n w liP11 e,ll't h and sky antl a setting sun 1'-lational Parks and Monuments Colllh in e PAGE THREE OF ARIZONA HIGHWAYS F0R MAY. 1946 In the history of American photography, work of early Western photographers stands out as a thrilling achievement. Despite the obstacles that confronted them, despite the laborious equipment and complicated processes, these great pioneers created masterpieces that are historical records as well as mileposts in the photographic art. These pages have shown many outstanding photos but none have the dramatic and his torical significance of those with this article by Mr. Newhall, who gives us a scholarly account of these pioneers. T. H. O'SULLIVAN . Self portrait made in Panama. Collection of W. H. Jackson, courtesy of the Museum of Modern Art. Note camera .. Some of the finest photographs of the South silver bath; the halide salts in the collodion time, I have made a negative in fifteen min west were made seventy years ago. became silver salts , light-sensitive so long as utes, from the time the first rope was thrown the coating remained humid. He rushed the from the pack to the final repacking. Ordi The men who made them were intrepid dripping wet plate in its light -tight holder into narily, however , half an hour was little enough pioneers. They struggled with a clumsy, awk the camera, exposed it, and brought it back time to do the work well. Thirty-two -good neg ward and limited technique, ill -adapted to the at once to his dark tent for developing , fixing atives is the largest number I ever made in rigors of hard travel in the field . One of the and washing. For each exposure there were one day." memb ers of Powell's second exploration of the six separate operations! W. H. Jackson, whose Grand Canyon in 1871 had bitter recollections Chemical manipulation , however , was not photographs persuaded Washington to create the only problem which the early photographer of the sheer physical exertion which expedi the Yellowstone National Park in 1872, wrote tionary photography entailed in the eighteen faced . The hand-made plates requir ed ex Robert Taft , author of Photography and the posures measured in seconds; consequently seventies. In A Canyon Voyage, F. S. Dellen American Scene , that "when hard ·pressed for baugh described the photographic outfit as "the his camera had to be firmly supported on a terror of the party ," and went on to say that tripod. He was limit ed to subjects which re "the camera in its strong box was a heavy load mained stationary . Action photography was to carry up the rocks, but it was nothing to only a dream and hand-held cameras were the chemical and plate-holder box, whicl'r in virtually unknown. Only with the small cam turn was featherweight compared to the imi eras used for making stereoscopic views , which tation hand organ which ser.ved as a dark were fitted with twin lenses of short focal room. This dark box was the special sorrow of length, could any kind of instantaneous work the expedition , as it had to be dragged up the be done, and then only under the most favor heights from 500 to 3000 feet." able conditions of light. The most advanced photographic process The amount of equipment needed was stag then known was the wet-plate technique. The gering. Jackson supplied Taft with a list of photographer had to make his own plates in what he actually took into the field: the field immediately before exposure and Stereoscopic camera with one or more pairs develop them without delay. As these opera of lenses tions were performed in a subdued orange-red 5x8 Camera box plus lens light , a darkroom had to be within easy reach . 11x14 Camera box plus lens Wagons were often fitted out as traveling Dark tent darkrooms, but these were seldom suitable for Z Tripods expeditionary work. Portable substitutes we:re 10 lbs. Collodion designed, ranging from small pyramidal tents 36 oz. Silver nitrate with orange calico to the most ingenious "dark Z quarts Alcohol box" which, when opened up and set on a 10 lbs. Iron sulfate stout tripod, became a work sink with shelves Package of filters above for chemicals and solutions. A dark cloth 1 ½ lbs, Potassium cyanide enveloped the box and the upper part of the 3 yds. Canton flannel photographer's body. 1 Box Rottenstone Inside his stuffy tent the photographer skil 3 Negative boxes fully flowed a mixture of collodion and one of 6 oz. Nitric acid the halide salts over a perfectly clean piece of 1 quart Varnish plate glass. While the coating was tacky he J. K. HILLERS. Tau -Gu, great chief of the Developing and fixing trays plunged it into a solution of silver nitrate. A Pai-utes and Major John Wesley Powell. About Dozen and a half bottles of various sizes. T . !f. O'SULLIVAN_. The White House, Canyon de _Chelly. 1873. From the colle~tion of '.he Mus~um of Modern Art, New York City. chemical reaction took place at once in this 1872 . Collection of Museum of Modern Art. Glass for negatives, 400 pieces. T hzs hr;s. been desc~zbed as one of the most. extraordinary photographs ~o be_made z': ,1mer_zca. OrzgznaJ al~umen print retains its full color and brzllzancy. Achievement ?f photograph zs all the more remarkable zn vzew of dzffzcultzes of workzng zn remote sections with cumber PAGE FIVE OF AllIZONA HIGHWAYS FOR i\IAY, 1946 some wet plate proces~, wherezn plate must be sensitized in "dark,-room" tent, exposed while wet and immediately developed. Note figures. Success was won by perseverance and determination. Men would the Civil War. The experience of photographing in the battlefield travel miles over rugged terrain and come back empty handed. under fire was not only stern technical training for expeditionary Dellenbaugh notes in his journal on February 6, 1872: "Clem and work, but also had inspired these combat cameramen with a taste Bonnemort arrived from an expedition to make photographs down for adventure and had given them physical resistance against the Kanab Canyon ... They had met with bad luck, and did not hardships. T . H. O'Sullivan , who joined Clarence King's Geo get a single negative . The silver bath got out of order, and the logical Exploration of the Fortieth Parallel in 1867, was certain horse bearing the camera fell off a cliff and landed on top of ly one of the · most daring. During the bombardment of Fort the camera, which had been tied on the outside of the pack , with Sumter shell fragments had twice knocked over his camera; whi le a result that need not be described." They tried again . John K. troops remained under cover he carried on, producing photographs Hillers, who had joined the party as an oarsman , learned the in which were judged by contemporaries as "among the best of the tricate technique in the field: when both professionals who had war." been employed left the expedition he took over and remained as The King party, made up of sevente@n civilians and twenty Powell's cameraman for six years. Not only did he take spec cavalry troops, left San Francisco foi; the Great Salt Lake via the tacular 11x14 inch views of the canyon, but he also took hun Sierra Nevada. Two mules and a packer were assigned to O'Sul dreds of stereoscopic studies of fast disappearing Indian tribes, livan for his gear. At Nevada City he .explored the Comstock and it is perhaps for this valuable historical record that he is best Lode mines . At great personal risk he took photographs hundreds known today . Fortunately many of the stereographs have sur of feet down in the mines by magnesium flare-dangerous and vived due to the popularity of this form of photography in the unpredictable anywhere , almost suicidal in mines where inflam days before newspapers, magazines and books were filled with mable gas might be lurking. He joined a group from the main halftone reproductions . Oliver Wendell Holmes was an ardent party who had decided to .descend the Truckee Rapids . When their collector and devised the skeleton viewing apparatus which for de boat became wedged among rocks he scrambled ashore somehow cades was part of the parlor furniture of a Victorian home. The and rescued the craft. Another side trip took him into a desert illusion of three dimensions which the stereoscope gave was a · hundred miles south of Carson Sink where, with the luxury startlingly realistic, and armchair travelers were eager for pic of an ambulance drawn by a four-mule team, he photographed the tures of distant lands. W. H. Jackson received, in 1869, an order dazzling sand dunes five hundred feet high, which shifted from for ten thousand stereographs along the route of the Union Pa place to place . cific railroad! Expeditionary photographers, who were not well In 1870 we find O'Sullivan in Panama, photographing for Com paid , found the sale of stereographs a good means ·of increasing mander Selfridge's Darien Expedition. There, with his stereo their incomes, and almost every large view was duplicated in the scopic camera, he made a self portrait . A lean, tough, moustach smaller double image of th·e stereo camera . They found, too, that ioed figure, he stands beside his huge camera in a native village. the small camera was more practical for work with people than When, the next year, he joined Lt . Wheeler in the Engineer the large view camera. Corps' Geographical Surveys West of the 100th Meridian, O'Sul Many of the early photographers of the vVest were veterans of livan was probably the most experienced expeditionary J. K. HILLERS . The Grand Canyon. Probably taken about 1872. From the collection of W . H. Jackson, courtesy of Clarence S. Jackson. T. H. O'SULLIVAN. Black Canyon. Colorado River, 1871. Collection of the Museum of Modern Art. This great photographer , lean, Hillers, member of the Powell expedition, has left thrilling documentary evidence of early explorations of the Grand Canyon country . tough , indefatigable and utterly fearless , surmounted obstacle after obstacle to make his photographs of the West . In this study of a rocky Members of the party grew to hate heavy photographic equipment that had to be carried up steep canyon walls so pictures could gorge, we see his darkroom pitched in the boat. O'Sullivan gained fa me for his photographs in Civil War where he first tasted adventure . be taken and developed on the spot. Dangerous river rapids were not only a hazard to equipment but endangered lives as well . PAGE i;lEVEN OF ARIZONA HIGHWAYS FOR MAY , 1946 T. H. O'SULLIVAN. Canyon de Chelly. 1873. From the collection of Beaumont Newhall. Appearance of these photographs in east revealed a BEN WITT/CK. A trip to Zuni . Courtesy of the Laboratory of Anthropology, Sante Fe, N . M. and the Museum of Modern Art. Wittick's new world to government officials . Despite difficulties of making photographs, results were excellent. Originals retain strong detailed values. Southwestern subiects are famous. This fine photographer was a Civil War veteran, made his Indian studies in the 80's, did fine things of Hopi Snake Dances. In 1903 Wittick died as the result of rattlesnake bite by snake he had captured and had planned to turn over to Hopi friends. W. H . JACKSON . Ancient ruins in the Canyon of the Mancos, Mesa Verde National Park . 1874. Collection of the Museum of Modern Art. Jackson, contemporary of O'Sullivan, was one of most famous of the ear ly western photographers. His Yosemite studies are collector's items. photographer in the country. He was to find lowances for increasing difficulties. . . . Sub present Canyon bed" as the caption reads. Two high adventure and magnificent materia l for sequent revelations showed how inadequate other explorers stand among the lower ruins; his camera in the Southwest . The expedition's was this plan . . . " On October 11 all of one holds the rope by which the cliff was first sortie was an ascent of the Colorado River . Wheeler's papers were lost in an upset . Camp climbed. Another view frames the Canyo11 They crossed Death Valley in July, when the 28 was named Starvation Camp; rations were between a steep cliff to the left and three thermometer registered 109 degrees at mid so low that Wheeler guarded them personally . towering pinnacles on the right. The party has set up three tents in the valley, not far night. The Colorado was reached on Septem He complained in his diary that there was not enough to make a decent pillow . At last, on from an Indian earth hut . ber 11, 1871. At Camp Mohave they spent Most photographers took several cameras several days getting their boats in readiness. October 19, the exhausted travellers reached Diamond Creek and the next day made ren into the field, partly as insurance against ac One boat, appropriately christened the Picture, cidents, and partly in order to make different was assigned to O'Sullivan, who at first trav dezvous with the ground party . ·w heeler, commending his photographer in sized negatives. Enlarging, before the inven elled indep ende ntly . Wheeler noted in his tion of modern bromide paper, was infrequent , the official seven-vo lume report, tells the fate journal , "At Lagoon Camp . . . the Picture perhaps more for esthetic than for technical of the pictures obtained by such exertion . "Mr. comes up a little before noon. . .. The photo reasons, because the public wanted brilliantly · O'Sullivan, in the face of all obstacles, made graphic party have met with good success. sharp pictures, full of precise detail, which en negatives at all available points, some of which Having rationed anew, they will still continue largements cannot give. If large prints were were saved, but the principal ones of the col on a roving commission until the rendezvous required, several negatives had to be made, lection were ruined during transportation from at the crossing is made." At Camp, about and as the great expanses of western scenery Prescott, Arizona, the mouth of the Colorado, thirty-flve miles below the present site of demanded big pictures , field photographers San Francisco, etc., to Washington, D . C., thus Boulder Dam, O'Sullivan made one of his finest were obliged to take big cameras. The limit destroying one of the most unique sets of views. In the foreground the Picture is drawn was reached by W . H. Jackson, who packed a photographs ever taken." To judge from the up to the bank, with the omnipresent black 20x24 inch camera on a trip to the Rocky quality of those which have survived, and dark tent in its bows. The waters of the Colo Mountains and the Southwest in 1875! which were published as original gold-toned rado appear smooth, due to the long exposure . The technique was still the same old messy prints by the War Department either sing ly or Behind rise the dynamic profiles of Black Can wet-p late proc ess. The two-foot square glass bound in huge folio volumes, Wheeler's praise yon, dark and menacing. As the party passed plates could not be handled in a portable dark was not exaggerated. through the area now submerged by Boulder box: "for dark room had a canvas tent lined Lake the going became increasingly tough. One of O'Sullivan's most interesting series with orange calico about six feet square at " . . . The boat party entered the jaws of the of photographs were made on the Survey's ex base with center pole." Jackson wrote in his Grand Canyon, not knowing what was before ploration of the Canyon de Chelly in 1873. diary. Nor could he use the conventional silver them," Wheeler recollected. "U p to this time The imm ense, awe-inspiring scale of the Can bath , a glass-lined box open at one end, in the rapids, though often very swift, had not yon is wonderfully sensed. One superb view which the plate was dipped . "Used a flat been . accompanied by heavy falls, and the es was taken by brilliant, raking sunlight, which wooden tray for bath," he noted. timate for the time to reach the mouth of the picks out every strata of the Canyon wall. Two Working with the oversize camera was ex Diamond Creek . . . was based on our experi tiny figures are proudly posing on the famous acting. His first exposure, of Lake San ·Cristo ence up to that time, which supposed due al- White House ruins "in a niche 50 feet above val, Colorado, cost him three days' work, as his PAGE NINE OF ARIZONA HIGHWAYS FOR MAY, 1946 D'HEUREUSE. Captain Atchison, his orderly and clerk at Fort Moiave, California . Taken in late 60's. From the collection of Francis P. Farquhar . Early photographers faithfully chronicled lif e on the rough western frontier . "July 2. Everything worke d lovely and secured a fine negative on first attempt ." Jackson recorded twelve of these huge negatives in the pfficial govern ment catalogue. "They give," he wrote there , "a very much more im pressive idea of the real grandeur of those mountains than any smaller views possibly can ." We can well believe this claim. Unfortunately not one of these ma mmoth prints has , to the knowledge of Mr . Clarence S. Jack son, the photographer's son, survived . William Henry Jackson was the last of the great frontier photographers. He died only a few years ago at the age of ninety -nine, a grand old man whose full life he has described in his delightful autobiography Time Exposure. He joined Hayden's Geological and Geographical Survey of the Territories in 1870, and although his most famous work was in the Yellow stone area, he made many photographs of the Southwest. In 1874 he began to explore ancient Indian ruins . One of the most dram atic photographic discoveries was the cliff house in the Canyon of the Man cos, now the Mesa Verde National Park . The party had set up camp at the end of the .day in the Canyon when suddenly one of them cried, "I see it!" and there, high up in a niche on the rock wall, they could just make out a half-hidden building. Nothing would do but an immediate explora tion . The climb was difficult; most of the party dropped out to make a sec ond attempt next day, but Jackson and Ernest Ingersoll, a New York Trib une reporter, climbed all the way . "It was getting dark," Jackson wrote, "but I was determined to see all there was of it in order to plan my work for the morning ." Time and again, rnading Jackson's detail~d journals and other accounts of field photography in the mid-nineteenth century, we find that much of the cameraman's work was preparatory, prospecting for views. Perhaps this is the key to the excellence of these early photographs. Perhaps the very despairs of the photographer worked, in the long run, for him . Casual, prom iscuous ·snapshooting was impossible. Every exposure was an effort; every piece of glass carried by pack mule, by ·boat or by human brawn was pre cious. Not a single piece could be wasted . If a negative was a failure, the silver image was washed off and the glass used again. Only successes sur vived to be brought back for printing during the between-season layover . In Time Exposure Jackson tells how he first photographed the Mountain of the Holy Cross, franctically melting snow to obtain water with which to work . With his companions he had waited all night on a mountain sj.de, with neither food nor blankets, to photograph the magnificent view, and the early morning sunlight was rapidly disappearing as clouds loomed up. He succeeded brilliantly . "Since 1873," he wrote, "I have been back four or five times . I have used the best cameras and the best sensitive emulsions on the market . . . And I have never come close to matching those first plates ." D'HEUREUSE . John Moss and the Pia-ute Chief Tercherrum, Moiave. Taken about 1866. From the collection of Francis P. Farquhar. Through such studies as these we have an exciting view of life in early pioneer days. CARLETON E. WATKINS . Stereograph of Tombstone, taken in late 70's. Watkins made thousands of photographs througho dJ the West . Because photography was such a poorly paid profession in early days the photographers earned extra remuneration by making views for stereoscopes , popular viewing instruments . Viewing photographs through the steroscopes gave the effect of depth . J. /{_ HILLERS . Eagle Crag, Rio Virgin, Utah . Courtesy of Francis P. Farquhar . Hillers, a member of the Powell expedi tion , first to travel down the Colorado, took up photography when regular photographer quit group . Some of his Western studies are outstanding for the scenic beauty portrayed. His pictures are among the first taken of many famous scenic shrines in Arizona and southern Utah . Limited supplies , demanded meticulous care with each shot. diary (now in the New York Public Library) testifies : well: bath tray leaked so badly I lost nearly all of "June 30. Took large camera and appurtenarn:es the solution befo re second plate was immersed and up to the Lake. Set everything up for work , but chemical effect was bad . Decided to move every wind blew so hard we did not attempt any ex posure . thing up to the Lake . Spent afternoon in making "July 1. Morning being favorable were on hand new bath and m preparation for another attempt early to make big negative, but things did not work on the Lake. PAGE ELEVEN OF ARIZONA HIGHWAYS FOR MAY, 1946 ,,POlnTlnG T~fW In D" ho-uncuik~ r;JaMdt.;;.aP.s. If you are a person with a more inquisitive turn of mind, you might apply your Desert skies are peaceful skies lending themselves to musing and meditation. self to meteorology ( now we quote Mr. Webster), "the science treating of atmos Their mood, like their color, overflows to earth and takes possession of the spectator. phere and its phenomena," for a fuller explanation of our western skies. That Their peace and quiet are catching. science is far beyond our ken. Only through the good offices and better grace of the aforesaid Mr.Webster are we able to spell the word correctly. In contrast. there is the storm sky, the sky of dark and impatient clouds gathering over the land, threatening, full of low, deep rumbling. Its fury bursts out of control. On~ doesn't need special equipment or training for our approach. Just heart With wind and rain used like angry lashes, it whips the earth. The storm's high, hard to feel, humility to understand, time for contemplation. In man's life there is not laughter is heard in the land. time enough to do justice to the subject. This sky forms quickly. Almost as you watch, the storm drama will be acted Volumes could be written on desert shes, for instance; yet a desert sunrise before you. It is a beautiful sky to behold but terrifying at the same time . Out in the will forever remain undescribed . You need sturdier snares than pen and ink to deep \Vest the elements do not do things in half measures. Our western skyscape can catch such fleeting beauty. be a portrait of deepest calm or crazy madness. Variety is wove n into the fabric. A desert sunrise or sunset is a lavish display in color. Color spills out of the As quickly as a storm sky can appear so ca~ it as quickly disappear. Fury is sky flooding the desert so the desert itself becomes part of the sky. The color may spent. The timid sun, which ran away and hid when the storm came up, now gathers be gold, deep orange, purple. It may be the red of red wine, rich red wine poured its courage and sends Fingers of light through the dark clouds. They pick up their over the land so only there is red and not gray-green as before . skirts, and riding a high wind, hurry along to misch ief elsewhere. -~------~ A sky full of dark clouds heavy with moisture does not always m ean How clean and fresh the world is rain and storm. Su ch a sky may take after such a rain . If your vagrant days to form and then slip quietly footsteps should take you to the away in the night , leaving the stars high mountain on a spring day, the unmolested in their frolics and the sky you find there is something to see. smiling land as thirsty as ever. Such a day and sky is for those This sky Rlls you with awe and blessed people with no ambition, the wonder. \Vhen the rain gods, who lucky ones who realize that th e trip formed it, decide to be generous , the from the cradle to the grave is not rain that comes is a gentle rain for too long and that pleasant moments th e sky itself is not angry, seething spent a'whittling, or a'sitting on a with a fancied grudge against the corral fence, or just a'loafing in the smiling land. The rain falls slowly bright spr ing sunshine, a'watching and steadily . The clouds unload the world and the clouds go by are th eir moisture and return to the sea pleasant moments, indeed. from whence they came, leaving the V./hite billowy clouds hung out in blue dome of heaven clean and a blue sky to dry! Lazy fellows gos washed and bright. siping with the soft wind and passing The land beneath , grateful for the the time of day with the mountain gift of rain, is also clean and washed tops. Loafers themselves, they are, and bright, resplendent in the bril playing hooky from school and their liant sunshine after the rain. House lessons, unconscious of their loveli keeping has been complete and ness or how by their very presence thorough. they accent the blue about them. "(]~ $luj" /e,'///,/fA1c.1cun The placidity of a spring sky over the high mountains is contagious. Surely you can't go bustling about The clouds that today decorate a high mountain top may · tomorrow form patterns over the hills that yqur every-day, work-a-day affairs when such a sky invites you to pause for a while and ponder . Look to the encircle the desert, catching the last fiery light of a tired, contented sun, reflecting in the sheerness of their clouds for a lesson. They can go to the ends of the universe and haYe all eternity to get there. But do they do texture the rose and reddish hues that are part of a desert twilight. Into this sky the moon comes out. swagger it? No! They have found a pleasant place to loaf and they have the good sense to make the most of it. in~ in gown of spun gold, vain mistress of the night begrudging the twinkling and merry stars the part they play in the desert nocturne. They are idlers whispering "sweet-nothings" to the mountains below, and to each other. · This is the western sky that so many travelers into the smiling land remember always - and to which They drift along, gaily and easily, changing into a thousand shapes as they drift. With their shadows \' they always yearn to return . The stillness and dignity of the sky is felt in the land. Sky and desert are a they caress a mountain side or touch a delicate flower tenderly on the cheek. They, too. pause and admire mighty cathedral in which the beholder feels the reverence of holy places. the scenery as they float along, telling you not where they have been or where they intend to go. Truth is, they do not know themselves and by their lackadaisical pursuit of destiny, you can readily tell they do not Here is peace. Here one is at peace. For a few hours you are permitted to share Nature's most care a darn . . harmonic mood. This up-and-down land, this land of mountains, plateaus, mesas, hills and canyons, is the only land that could flt our spacious, majestic western skies. Skies with less austerity and regality would not do justice to the land. A duller, Ratter terrain , with drab and monotonous features, would be miscast. As it is, they were well-tailored for each other. Here the earth is big enough · and varied enough to bear the imprint of the skies ,....,patterns of light and shadow. The jagged distant mountam range is sun drenched, bright and gleaming among the shadows cast about it by the drifting clouds. It is part of a symphony of the sun, mighty music played in highlights and overtones. The very pattern of the sky on the earth adds an ethereal quality to distance, making the far-away peaks sharper against the horizons. The sky etches its beauty on the land, celestial composition of sun light and shadow on canyon, plateau and mountain peak. The pattern shifts as the clouds shift. The sun, with a skyful of billowy tools to play with over this western land, is a very clever fellow. He can bring a whole mountain range into sharp and bold relief or he can lose it in shadows. You have to be a very clever fellow, indeed, to play tricks with mountain ranges. Where else, but out here in the deep West, do earth and sky blend in such harmonious relationship that you can reach out and touch a storm ,....,or at least be close enough to throw "How far away is the mountain range?" you ask the stranger into this colorful, endless a rock into it,....,and still not be part of the storm? \Vhere else in the whole world would sky land . He squints his eyes and with a knowing look of profound concentration ventures a guess. and earth join their pretty graces to place a rainbow at your feet or hang a dazzling curtain of "Ten miles at the most," he says; "they look so clear with all their details standing out." color before your very eyes? "Good Sir! Guess again! Forty or fifty, perhaps. You are a stranger here , unaccustomed Where else could you watch the lightning play leap frog underfoot and if thunder, as to the clear, clean air of the deep West, air free from fog, haze, dust or smoke, air that has the poet says, is the sound of gods playing ten pins, where else could you see the pins fall? been put through some celestial washing-machine before it was poured out over the western Where else could you find such a varied skyscape? It's a Mulligan stew sort of sky with land to pretty up the landscape by its very clarity and by its clarity to give a luminous, crystal everything in it, the sweepings of the universe poured out over the land. line quality to the skies covering the land. Like everything else out here in the West, the air or ozone ( to use a more stilted word) is something stale custom has not prepared you for, if Then, as if satisfied that you have looked long enough, the winds swing their mighty you are newly come from a less spectacular neighborhood ." bro.oms and the sky pattern is scattered . lf the winds are autumn winds all that is left of your sky are ragged wisps of white clouds, bedraggled ragamuffins, that are sent hurrying along, The air, like the land , serves as a stage prop to show our western skies to best advantage. high and fast, with scared looks over their shoulders as if pursued by a thousand furies . Where, for instance, are the stars so bright and so close, close enough almost to reach out and hold them in your hand? Endless are our western skies, as vast and wide as the land th ey When a skyful of clouds come cover. They were formed over the back from th e sea bringing a wet pathless seas. They rolled in from spring to the desert , which they do the ocean ~ver the high Rockies, quite often, the clouds have a perfect hurried and tired travelers coming right to strut and brag a little bit, for home. When they left the seas. there is magic, indeed, in their ex they, like most travelers, overbur quis ite touch. dened themselves with · baggage. To The clouds, after their chores are climb the Rockies they had to lighten complete and they have shaken their loads so that is why the western themse lves free from most of their land is drier than most because the moisture and tattle-tale gray, are re rains, surplus baggage, had to be un° splendent in dress of delicate white . . loaded elsewhere. Occasionally they It is then that they hang perfectly clamber over the mountains with still in the blue canopy from which trunks and suitcases overflowing with they are suspended , their heads full moisture which they profusely scatter of daydreams and reverie . They doze about . Snows are piled deep in the in the bright light of a western sun, ·mountains. Heavy rains make capa resting up after a job well done. They cious gardens out of mesa and stretch themse lves lazily in the sun desert. something for -all the world shin e, masterpieces in lovely languor , to come and see. grateful for the warmth and welcome \Vhen that happens the bountiful of home after the long, hard journey clouds in the skies hang about and over the high Sierras. admire their handiwork, proud of the These are skies of contentment . enchantment they have brought to easy. restful skies, portraits in un the earth beneath. fathomable blue and white. These Lakes are fHled, the farm lands are the skies that cha llenge the pho take on a cloak of richest greeri, and tographer and urge him to greater mountain meadows become like pains for the right touch to ttnish a magic carpets, where mountain dry mountain scene or pastora le. You ads can dance to the music of the will Rr:d them very cooperative. They wind in the trees . haven t any particular business to attend to and they don't mind posing. ln fact : they like it very much. "ll~ - !Jt/kdeM I ✓ The weatherman, with his tools and knowledge of meteorology, will probably by now give up in despair, muttering "juke box poetry" as he lays our essay aside. To him, every cloud has a name, every sky formation a meaning . He puts a storm on a chart and watches it cavort with practiced, knowin g eyes, telling you not only what is happening today but what will happen tomorrow. His words are of wisdom and from lessons long since learned. He takes the skies into his laboratory, measures them, puts them in test tubes . You would never flnd our learned friend under a mesquite tree, just a'looking. Nor would you flnd him on some high mesa studying the silhouette of a lonely Joshua against a sky in which there are already rumors of evening, completely awed b y what he sees. We haven't tried to explain "atmosphere and its phenomena." Anyway, whoever heard of someone taking a photograph and displaying it proudly over the fence to his neighbors , say ing, "Look at my picture of a pretty ph eno mena I took on our trip out West." Nor could you possibly ima gine the good neighbor exclaiming over your photograph of a striking skyscape: "W hat a lovel y phenomena!" Every person to his taste and fancy . \Ve only know we like to study our western skies in all their moods and whims, and that we never grow tired of the occupation. We know that our skies will never disappoint us and that by merely watching we'll be adequately repaid in beauty and distan ce and spaciousness and always there'll be pleasant surprise. \Ve know tomorrow will be more exciting than today. "WtllTlnG-fO~~tlln c:n(+uno V~LLfY" ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~L.7~ A POSTSCRIPTFOR TRAVELERS: four-day program includes a rodeo, dances , exhibition of Indian arts and crafts, parades , beauty and baby contests and other features. Flagstaff, in the heart of the Indian country, Three of the exciting events in the West this summer are the Frontier Days and the puts on its best bib and tucker for the entertainment of its guests, red and white alike. This Pow-Wow shows at Prescott and Flagstaff during the Fourth of July holidays and the is one show wher e the spectator3 are as much fun and as interesting as the participants. Two Smoki Dances at Prescott Sunday evening, August 10. The three shows are unique , ex civilizations meet in gay holiday spirit. What is fun for one is fun for the other . ceptionally well-staged and thoroughly entertaining. Deep summer out this way is en livened by the Smoki Dances at Prescott . Th e Smoki Frontier Days is a wild western show in a pleasant western city in the cool mountains People are Prescott citizens who long ago organized to perpetuate the traditions and cere of Yavapai County. The first rodeo ever staged was held in Prescott and the shows that monials of Indian tribes of the West . At sundown the second Sunday in August have come the Smoki down through the years have lost none of their flavor and atmosphere of the tom -toms are h eard in the hills of Yavapai. old West. The dances begin. Moccasined feet beat a rhythmic cadence. The Smoki area fills with light and movement . Months The Pow-Wow at Flagstaff is an all-Indian affair with as many as 32 tribes represented of pr epara tion and training come to co and with the City of the Pines crowded with thousands of Indians and other visitors . The lorful culmination. 0 0 0 Construction has started on Davis Dam, another chapter in man·'s plan to harness and tame the Colorado River. The Colorado-irascible, cantankerous , temperamental , short-tempered, destructive, changeable, unreliable , quarrelsome, moody , muddy, sullen and ugly- The Colorado-ill-mannered old bandit of the west, dismay and terror of all travelers since the days of the cliff-dwellers, since the time of the Conquistadores and the early-day explorers- The Colorado-is going to be tamer than a kitten, taught more man ners and put to more useful tasks. (Incidentally, we can call it names be cause it is our river, but no one else can.) Boulder Dam and Parker Dam, the first two major projects in develop ment of the Colorado River have long since been completed. Millions upon millions of horsepower we;e made through their turbines during the war years to help produce planes and other tools of war on the Pacific Coast. An old patriot, that's the Colorado. Imperial , Headgate and Laguna Dams and the All-American Canal are other chapters in the development of the lower Colorado. The success of these projects is Reclamation history. And still the Colorado rolls merrily on to the sea, its great strength barely tapped. Power and other potentialties of the river haven't been touched yel. Davis Dam and Power Plant is the next in many projects planned to use its vast resources. For Davis Dam , contracts have been let. The contractor, Utah Con struction Company, is moving in men and equipment and has started the preliminary work on this project that is estimated to cost $77,000,000 be fore completion. This amount includes the dam, power plant and entire transmission system , and of this amount the Bureau of Reclamation esti mates that about $47,000,000 will be spent for construction in the vicinity of the dam site. Plans call for the project to be completed in three to four years. Davis Dam site is in Pyramid Canyon 67 miles below Bould er Dam , 80 miles above Parl fer Dam, 34 miles by improved highway from King man , Arizona, in Mohave County. Kingman will serve as the railhead for this great post-war reclamation project. Even now with but preliminary work going on, Kingman has all the earmarks of a busy, lively boom city, which in truth it is. The project was named in honor of the late Arthur Powell Davis, director of the old Reclamation Service from 1914 to 1923, one of those who laid the foundation for the development of the Colorado River. Mr . Davis proposed these projects on the Colorado in his report of 1922. His plan was received as that of an impractical visionary; yet succeedin g years have proved its worth, proved it to be one of the great est reclamation and power-development plans in the history of mankind . Michael W. Straus , Commissioner, Bureau of Reclamation, in a state ment delivered at the ground -breaking ceremony at Davis Dam , April 19, 1946, said: Davis Dam site, as seen looking upstream from the Nevada side of the Colorado River. This is an artist's conception of the dam across the river . Preliminary work has started on this $77,000,000 project. When completed the water will back up almost to Boulder Dam. Released waters will PAGE THIRTY -THREE 01<' AUIZONA HIGHWAYS l!'Olt l\IAY, 10-JG generate power through the turbines in the power house on the Arizona side of the river. The gates on the extreme right will control flow of river , - ---. - .,..,.,....,,,,:r,,,.,,~.~ . "Full development of the lower reaches of the Colo rado River was once scoffed at as visionary and imprac tical. It is hard to believe today that only two decades ago responsible people laughed off Boulder Dam as a great white elephant whose power potential could never be reached by 1980. Yet, that dam was completed in 1936 and by 1941, a bare five years later, power de mands were already beyond its tremendous capacity. "Davis Dam is but another step in p lanned resource development of the West ... The 225,000 kilowatts of power to be developed by Davis Dam generators is not going to visionary uses of some future time. It is needed to relieve shortages now crippling central and southern Arizona , to pump water on to thirsty soil in California and Arizona. Even when this great dam and power plan is completed five years hence, power demands of the Southwest will have far outrun the capacity of all existing hydroelectric generators." Primarily designed as a power project, Davis Dam will also provide additional regulation of the river flow below Boulder Dam . By provision of the treaty be- Davis Dam site , as seen from the Arizona side of the river , is today a scene of activity. Several small , temporary structures are being built across Utah Construction Company , contractor, is moving in equipm ent for th e build river for convenience of working men and handling of suppli es. Three years from now this view will be miraculously transformed into an im ing of Davis Dam. Four million cubic yards of earth and rock will go into gi posing structure, which will hold 1,900,000 acre feet of water . Completed dam will provide vast recreational possibilities for Mohave county. gantic earth-rock dam, plus 450,000 cubic yards of concret e, many tons of steel. Continued development of the Colorado River is one of the glorious pages in America's expansion of the western frontier . Vision and planning , Davis Dam , America 's first post-war reclamatir:m project, will _employ_ man at peak of .construction, will average about 1 ,200 employed during ~,qoo , and achievement of American labor plus the tools of construction designed and produced by American industry is why Ameri year program . Power fron:z dam_ wzll be f?r. peace-tzme actz1:ztzes, further expanszon of th e west . Of men now employed , most are vet engineering skill thr ee to four mighty river to work . Here is America at its best, America of today, looking forward, planning for tomorrow. erans. B ecause adequate labor supply zs avazlable, offzczals cautzon agaznst labor rush to dam. Arrangem ents have been made for workers needed . ca will conquer the desert, put a - r>,. :.. ._.:...::.~-...... _, ~ .. ,·:,.\ !;. •.. .. ~~~--~.1:.;.,::1:...-- .t_,1 ~ C; I eastern Arizona and to southern California. It is estimated that the construction of the dam and power plant will provide emp loy-· ment for a maximum of 2,000 men during the peak of construction and an average of 1,200 men over the construction period. The lake behind Davis Dam will be pushed back almost to Boulder Dam , providing an other vast recreational and fishing playground for Mohave County. The water, as it is in Lake Mead and Lake Havasu , will be clear and olue and clean, for the silt that makes the Colorado brown and dirty-looking is being deposited far up in the end of Lake Mead. The Colorado , you know , is famous for its silt . There is a story that sunflo wer seeds thrown in the river near Marble Canyon were sprouti ng full-grown blooms when they reached Lake Mead, but we can't swear to its authen . (Aft I ticity. The building of Davis Dam has made changes in the vast desert country along the river in Mohave County. Near the damsite is a new Arizona town , Bullhead, .Arizona, if you please, a boomin g, busy building burg, which will remind you of a boom mining or oil town. Mohave county is a lively place these days .... R . C. Beginning of construction of Davis Dam has given birth to a new Arizona community- Bullhead , Arizona- not far fro m the dam. This could be described as America's first boom town since the war. Streets have been laid out, and despite material shortages, buildings begun. The founders of Bullhead , Arizona, believe their town will live af ter work on the dam has been completed. They look to the lake to attract many visitors by its recreation opportunities. tween the United States and the Republic of ing the concrete spillw ay structure of 1,600 The dam , spillway and power plant will M exico for the division of waters of the Colo feet , and a designed volume of 4 ,230 ,000 cubic require about 450,000 cubic yards of concrete The power plant will be located on the Ariz the Nevada side of the river, whi le the loca rado , the Tiajuana and the Rio Grande Rivers, yards. The crest w ill be 138 feet above the and 14,000,000 pounds of reinforcing bars. ona abutment of the dam. Water will be de tion of the Government town, a permanent the United States is obligated to construct river bed and the reservoir capacity will be During construction th e entire flow of the livered to the power plant through five 22-foot town for employees of the dam and govern Davis Dam within five years. As this is read 1,940,000 acre feet. Boulder Dam , by the river wi ll be diverted about the left , or Arizona , diamater pen-stocks connecting with the fore ment officia ls during construction , will be on the dirt is flying and will continue to fly for way , stores 32,000,000 acre feet of water (an abutment, in an open channel. Upon comp le bay. The power plant will hav e a n installed the Arizona side. Transmission lines and sub several years to come. acre foot of water is enough water to cover an tion of the clam , this channel will be used as capacity of 225,000 kifowatts provided by five stations wi ll be constructed to interconnect The dam will be an earth-and rock-fill em acre by one foot). There will be a two-lane a permanent feature for the power plant 45,000 kilowatt units. There will be a 230 kv. with the Boulder and Park er power plants, bankment with a total length of crest, includ- roadway to carry traffic over the dam. for ebay , spillway and non-pow er water release . switchyard located adjacent to the plant . an d to transmit power to the Gila project, as The contractors' camp will be located on well as to commercial markets in central and The Utah Construction company is building a town for employees on the Nevada side of the river , but many people are settling at Bullhead to get zn on the work on the proiect . The town mushroomed practically overnight when it was announced work was about to begin on the great dam . An up-to-~ate highwa;: _is soon to be built ~r the Arizona High way Department connecting Kingman , county seat of Mohave County and big rail center. Kingman envzszons zn the lage behznd the dam one of the fines/ fishing and boating centers in the west. The dam will be a tourist mecca . ' ' -.~:a;i~- ' . ' - I ,..., ,,,_- ~ . ' ,.. ~ ._....,- - ' nation and · to man. and became steadily harder. There were new eel until the gra ss-prim e steer attained the un An oldtime Arizonan's estimate of the coun markets opening up in the east and far north heard of high of seventy dollars a head-on try which the Longhorn was to redeem is for Longhorn beef , but the railroads were n ew, the hoof. Inste ad of bein g the yardstick by character istic and informative as well: few and far b etween. The beef eaters at hom e which herdsm en m easur ed their poverty , he "Mix up a hopp er of sand and ashes, poke had plenty of meat merely for the taking. So became the symbol of undreamed of wealth. it full of scorpions -and rattlesnakes, cactus and it came about that great herds of Longhorns He was pampered and cared for in ways which loco-weeds, dump th' whole caboodle over a were slaughtered on the range, stripped of their must have astonished even the Longhorn him millyun bare rocks, heat th em rocks as hot hid es, and their carcasses left to feed the coy self , could anything at all have concerned him as hell will let yuh, start th e United States ates and the wolves. There were no markets in the pursuit of hi s appoin ted way. They even cava lr y to chasin ' th' Apach es over the whole for the meat, but for tallow and hid es there built barbed wire fences around him , great endurin' mess-and you've got th' cattle coun was a ready sale. So the Longhorn promptly herds of him , in order that he might not try!" tran slated into terms of boots and candles. stray away or fall into dishonest hands. Still another olcltimer , recalling the advent Scorching droughts and frigid winters made And the barb ed wire was the Longhorn's of the Messiah from T exas, declared that the still greater inroads upon the herds , and ma doom. anima l had to adapt himself to the environ rauding Indians raided th em by the light of Barbed wire , and all it cam e to represent , ment because at that time "environment was the moon. The Longhorn was left to his own spelled -the end of th e Arizona Pioneer , just about all that Arizona had anything of." devices more an d more, and things finally as certainly as e lectric- light spelled the end Grante d freely , th at the terrain offered to got so bad that the cowmen quit bothering to to the candles into so many of which his ta l the naked eye an inho spitable, ungenerous, round up th eir stuff and slap th eir brands low had gone . Fenced ranges alone could take-all-and -give-nothing presentment. The upon the increase thereof. It was a case of sweep the Longhorn from th e grazing lands granite mountains looked forcefully repellent, root hog or die, for the Longhorn, and with of Arizona. And barbed wire came to the the foothills were spiked with unfriendly nobody really caring a hoot whether he liv ed range. growth, the valleys were guarded by the spikes or died. The Longhorn must hav e help , and There is no mystery at a ll about it. Because of defensive chaparral and the floor of the have it quickly, else he would peris h off the of the waste and ins ecurity of open range desert bristled with an armed-to- the -tee th de face of the earth before his job of winning conditions , ranchers had been unwilling to in fiance. On every hand , Natur e seemed to warn: the West was done. vest large sums of money for the purpose of he set the T,Vest up zn the Enter her e at your peril! And the Longhorn got help. Silver was dis trying out other less hardy but more desirable mttle busin ess ...... Ev en to the unprejudiced eyes, the stranger covered in the country around Tombstone, Ari breeds. With the coming of prot ection in the from clown South , insofar as his personal ap zona , and go ld was found farther north in th e form of fences, narrowing clown the extent of pearance went , did practically nothing at all country of the Y avapais . Mines opened in New th e range and bringing it under control , the to beautify the landscape over which he grazed, Mexico, Montana, Idaho , an d from all di heav ier, less tough Hereford became the beef or to soften in the leas t its demeanor. But rections men came streaming into the West. steer of th e West . Th e clay of the Longhorn the discerni ng eye might have seen at a glance It was the imp etus the Western livestock in was clone. that the rough diamond fitt ed perfectly into its dust ry needed-and the Longhorn steer came The T exas Messiah wen t West, dwelt there 0 0 rugg ed setting . Th ere has never been a har into his own. for a time , depart ed- le aving in tµe land which mony more complete, an associa tion better The rapidly swelling centers of population knew him and which he had rescued from pov justifi ed. demanded meat , and then more meat. Another erty nothing of him self but memory, and a few thousand sets of polished horns to adorn In the Spring of the 1867, a considerab le What racial stra ins met and mingl ed to self upon far-flung ranges which had never A few years after th e Longhorn arrived in railroad started spanning the de ser t sand s. the walls of many ranch houses and those of number of Texas citizens, cattle-poor and fin evolve th e original Longhorn may not be de known a fence. To find , in times of famine , Arizona the littl e M ex cows, prior occupants, Uncle Sam corralecl his Indians on reserva virtually every sa loon in the cattle co untry. ancially strapped, took a long look -see in the fined with certainty. Sometime far back in grass where softer steers less able to rustle were all back in Mexico , or over the line in tions , and it required a lot of Longhorn to feed His com ing was sudden and unheralded , hi s direction of the setting sun-and pointed them the past h e is known to have been a native of food could not have found it, or subsisted upon California whence many of them had come. his charges. Packing-houses increased their de stay short , his departure final and complete. selves and their herds into the Far West. Andalusia, after which he was successively it if they had. Because he was weather-wise For the ensuing forty years-t urbul ent as no mands, found new ways of pres erv ing the But on the colorful canvas which portrays his Clouds of stifling dust, stirred up as thou a Moor , a Spaniard , and a Mexican. Coming and found shelter for himself before the storms other years in American pioneer history have Longhorn's fl esh, new meth ods of profiting day, the Longhorn is the cen tr al figure around samls of sharp hoofs cut trails through virgin up from M exico by way of Texas , he acquired of winter burst upon him, and cou ld protect been - th e Longhorn ~as to reign alon e. from hi s bones and his hair , his hoof s and his which all else revolves. turf into a distant land which few white men an American citizenship. himself when predators such as wolves and But life in Arizona wa s not to be all bluestem horn s. His tribe , therefore, in creased. great for Th e ineradicable hoof-prints of the grass had as yet explored, were carried by the winds As for appearance the genuine Longhorn mountain - lions went stalking prey, the Long and gramma for th e T exas M essiah, any more Great fortunes were made and land Messiah are all over Arizona, but his bel into every nook and cranny of the land. The presented , m en who had a personal acquain horn survived and thriv ed as no other steer than it was to be all beer and skittles for the tunes were lost by the duk es and barons of low is not h eard in the land . dust settled, and left revealed for those with tance with the type of "critter" which set could have clone. Because he was the one and men who owned him. Times were hard at first. Longhorn lan d. The Longhorn's price increas- und erstanding eyes to see, the heroic figure Arizona up in the cattl e business are agreed only beef animal that could have weathered of Arizona's most colorful pion eer: that nothing in the way of streamlining which the rigors of his environm ent, and , in spite of His ineradicable hoof-prints are all over the West, but h is bellow is not heard in the land The Longhorn steer. the genius of man has thus far been abl e to heat, cold, scarcity of both food and water, not This Messiah from Texas , standing knee contrive will compare favorab ly with the job only survived but grown strong ai;:id multiplied -- -======- - deep in the lush herbage of a new country , exemplified in the physical conformation of hims elf by countless thousands. was not much to look at, but ther e was more in the Longhorn steer. The Longhorn could not help his cond ition , his makeup than met the eye. He had, hidden Nature gave him a body somewhat resem and must take no blam e for his faults and within hims elf, certain rare qua liti es which had bling a woodchopper's wedge, with horns on failings. He was up again st circumstances in served him well during m any nationalistic the blunt encl, a tail attac hed to the blade, Ar izona which he could neither alter nor tnm sbtions , and wh ich wer e to serve him and four reedy legs for underpinning. Grass avo id. H e had, in times of drought and on even better , now tlrnt he was pione er in g in generated his energy, and he foraged that for ranges where overstocking had depleted and the W est. him self. Given water and browse within reach , ruined the grass, to walk himself lean in or Back of the Longhorn's migration Arizonil he asked no odds of man or beast . der to gather enough forage to k eep him alive, wa rds was a force as strong as the pull of When the Longhorn entered upon the Am and when he had feed it was, many times nec gravity . An economic pressure which was to erican phas e of his development he began to essary for him to n egotiat e lon g, wearisome distr ibu te him and hi s kind in every vall ey, pick up . H e had a bett er climate, better gra ss, miles to refresh him self with wat er. plain and mountainside where Arizona 's nutri better care in general t han ever before, and he What of his owners? Why did not they take tious grasses grew. He was for a period of enjoyed the b enefits of selective breeding. better care of him? Well, the fact is that the not mor e than forty yea rs to reign over the He was without doubt a much better steer Longhorns' owners were th emselves but pio Kingdom of Kine - then to van ish from the do from the standpo int of beef, than h e had be en neers. They had as hard a time as the steers main as comp lete ly as though he had never in any of his past env ironm ents. Even as to to make both ends meet. They were few, scat been. color , or colors, to be more exact , h e had un tered here and there over a vast terrain upon During the fateful period of his r eign , the dergone a change. From blackish-brown he had which no farm crops grew or could be grown. - Longhorn was destined to establish a nation's become colored somewhat after the manner of Raising cattle was their sole occupation, and ) ~ ~-::::-~-=-___ catt le business . On his bony back was to rest the coat of Joseph, and even his hide, because sin ce markets were far away and the demand -=-_~_-- ,,, the entire weight of a fire-new lives tock in of a difference in climate, was of better worth. for Longhorn beef yet to be created, the own ···---- dustry. He was to relieve in generous meas Even so, a steer which gained a weight of ers: estate was as poor as was that of the Long ure the economic distress which had made of twelv e-hundr ed pounds on the hoof was a not horns. They were, steer and man, econo mic him i1 wanderer from Texas , create vast riches able exception. The rule was nearer nine-hun outcasts doing the b est they could in a coun for the country of his adoption, build rai lro ads, dred -a nd the meat of his carcass was still try which they must win or themselves be de highw ays, packing-houses, hom es, towns and tough. stroyed. citi es. He was , in short, to prod b ack with his vVhy, one is ju stified in asking, was such One ne ed only consider th e terrain in which needle-pointed horns a raw fronti er, and a great hullabaloo made over such a tough th e Longhorn was to attain both his glory smooth the way for a civi lization whose spade and unlo vely critter? The answer is: Because and his encl, to understand at least in part the wor k he had so intrepidly clone. he was tough. Tough enough to forage for him- animal and the service he rendered to the PA.GE TJ-IIRTY -EIGHT OF .A.UIZON.A. HIGHWAYS FOR M.AY, 1946 OLD VAQUERO N ear eighty now he sits outside his door, His rawhid e chair tipp ed back aaginst the thick Adob e wall. On the red flagstone floor Th e crumbl ed whit ewash falls and drifts . 0 0 Ho w quick He used to be with the lariat and spur, Swooping to cut th e y earlings from the band! OF RIVERS THAT RU N NORTH I shall not be alon e in my refl ections-far A nd then we saw his bit and bridle were ... From my son , who lives in Willi ams, from it , ina smu ch as of tho se hund re ds of lads Hanging against th e wall. His firm brown trai ned for th e R.A.F. at M esa some will have Ariz., I rece ntl y rece ived severa l copies of your hand wonderful maga zin e. Th ese I read eage rl y,' been spared fr om the qui cksands of war , and Caressed th e braid ed rein. "Do you still ride?" and was especially appr eciative of th e offset th ey withou t exception , will never forg et Ari W e asked. H e smiled. "Oh, yes--a · little reproduction of color ph otography. As a print er zona. w ay ." and gra phi c art s part icipan t I come across Sin ce 1942, when I was posted to th e U .S.A. Th en in a qui et, reverent aside, mu ch of this type of ar tistr y, and I h ave never for dut y, each of my fou r fleetin g visits to "But not to-day -G ood Friday - not to-day." seen fin er . Arizona inc rea sed my likin g for the Stat e and GRACE S. DOUGLAS . In th e Febru ary , 1945, numb er, I believe, its people. Wh en, in clue cour se, I must return there was an ar ticl e, "Th e Sprightly San to VVales to shed my unifo rm and m ilita ry re *RAIN * Pedro," by Stan Adl er. Th is articl e r eferr ed sponsibiliti es it will be in th e hop e that some Th e parching earth had cru shed the seeds of to th at river as one of thr ee in the world whi ch day I may ret urn -a nd th at in th e m eantim e grain. flow north . Whil e living back in th e middl e y ou will, in clue cour se, permit m e to mak e a Th e hidd en roots where seldom wat er pours west I, too, th ought it was a violation of n atu ra l fin ancial adjustm ent in my subscription whi ch W ere thirsting on the rocky ridges' floors; law and pr acticall y un constitution al for an will enable m e to rece ive my monthl y copies An d buffalo bones and those of the slain Am erican river to flow n orth , and I was gr eatly of Ar izona High ways . Wi ld mo untain sheep and deer and birds had int rigue d, when I fir st came to Oregon, to find A. G. Oliver lain a very lar ge ri ver, th e Will amett e, flowing due Squad ron Leader, R.A .F. Lo ng bleaching in the sun. Th e preciou s ores: north nearl y its enti re length . Th ere are many Washin gton , D. C. Red copper, tur quoise, silv er all were ston es more and big ones here in Oreg on whi ch flow • Each mont h ARIZO NA HI GHWAYS goes to Of ma n. Of thu nder he had non e, nor rain' north - th e Deschut es, John D ay, and oth er hund reds of Briti sh Em pir e fli ers w ho traine d smaller ones. Th e Snake flows nor th prac at M esa. Th ey, too, got sand in th eir shoes and "G reat Spirit , send th e thund er bird or soon tically all of th e latte r par t of its journ ey. will some day retu rn- if only for a visi t. Th e gra in will fail. Your childr en must not In Canada the rivers which empt y into Hud die son's Bay flow north. A FRIEND IN BEL GIUM Th ey are th e off spring of y our mighty will!" I trus t, if Mr. Adl er should see thi s, th at he .. . I should like to th ank you m ost sin Th e scatt ered cloud s dream ed in the drowsy will und erstand the fri endlin ess and appr ecia cerely for the beautiful issues of Arizona H igh n1.oon; tion of his swell story on th e San P edro whi ch way s you kindly sent me before th e war. The Th e N ava io resum ed his faith fill ed cry ; is behind it, and also my mi sappr ehension, ex last numb er th at reached m e was th e April , And rain rew arded him and prov ed his skill . actly like his, whi ch existed for fift y yea rs. As 1940, issue . I mu ch regr etted bein g depr ived HELEN NIVENS . a writer, I hope thi s may prevent emb ar ra ssment of th e very artis tic m agazine during fiv e yea rs. to him in th e futur e. M ay I ask you to be so kind as to put my CHOLLA* CACTUS * Leo C. D@an name again on your m ailin g list. I am deeply Pr ickl y prank ster of the desert, Salem, Oreg on. gr ateful for your court esy and wish to expr ess You'v e been shocked, we may surmis e, • Th e editor of Our- Ri vers-Th at-Flow-N orth you my wa rm est thanks .... Your fing ers point all way s at once Depart me nt plans to do considerabl e mor e re Dr. M . Van cler Myn sbru gge, M .A. In cry stal-spiked surpris e. search on the subiect. In the mean time, we refer 7 Sas Straa t LORRAINE BABBITT. Mr. Dean's interesting letter to Stan Adl er, Veurn e, Belgium . with thank s to Mr. Dean for writi ng. • To our old fri end Dr . M y nsbru gge ARI HIGH* MESA * ZO NA Hr GH WA YS will resu me its mo nthly visit . Brick-red sands REMINDER OF HOME W e are glad that he sur vived those five har sh Pierced by stiff wind -bitten clumps . . . Th ere is no place on earth as lovely y ears of war . Of Span ish bayon et to a person, at least to this person, as hi s hom e. * * Th eir white wax bells· To see it in all its beaut y of natural color is a NE GLECTED BOOT HILL? Unsouncling pleasure th at cannot be expr essed. I was born ... I m ade a trip throu gh Arizon a and In th e cree ping desert chill: in Ar izona and to me it has always m eant was very much in teres ted in Tombston e. It fr eedom . Fr eedom from worr y as ar e tho se seems a shame to me th at Boot Hill Graveyard Jagged peaks open plain s. worr y which is our worst enemy is so n eglect ed, and so. many of the grave Obliqu ely hurl ed over here . Whenever I am tired and nervous mark ers gone. This is an historic place. Ag ainst the paling opal sky I open th e well worn but most beautiful pa ges Dr . William F . Schro eder Lik e huge slag mounds of th e Chri stmas , 1945, issue of Ari zona H igh Coronado, Calif. Spewed up ways which was a present from my aunt and • Boot Hill is trul y an historical place and From ancient burnt-out fires: uncle, Mr . and Mrs . D. Kelly Turner of Tombstone folks should protect it._ Phoenix, and I relax. The Japanese are noted * * Shafts of gold for their wonderful flower arrangements , but A MAP FOR READERS . Like long-range arrows from the sky, even the best gasp in surprise and bow in . . . For Christmas, we were given a sub Cutting the twilight humility before those color photographs of scription to your excellent magazine; we like Softly closing in cactus blooms . Th ank you again for a won it ; hav e read it from cover to cover . In 1913, Upon a world derful pictur e of home . . . . we were at the Snake Dance. I used some Of pale suspended splendor : Pfc. Wm . F . McClusk ey text books of Senator Ashurst while I was pr e Headquarters 8th Army AG sect paring for Bar examination. I know something No shadows move ·c/o Postmaster San Francisco . of your great State . Beneath the first faint stars. • During the war and during these days of I should like to make one suggestion. vVhen But all about occupation ARIZONA HIGHWAYS was proud to I read of places your articles mention, I must Upon the lifted plain, bring and will continue to bring a part of hom e turn to my Atlas. Why not carry in each issue A company Th e road betwee n Prescott and f lagstaff. by wa y of Jerome. bears each month to Arizona boys overseas . of your magazine a handsome map of Ari zona Of creeping portents cross charm you along the way ~ each with such appeal and lure that the un exc iting num erical title: "Alt ernate U.S. Highway 89 ." Yet mile eve n the most hurri ed traveler must pause and absorb th e scenery. * * * * so that readers may turn to the map and see The solitude per mile, it is one of the most exc iting road s through the deep Wes t. Th e road over Min gus Mount ain is an engineering masterpiece, FRIEND FROM WALES locat ion of the story . On silent ghostly feet . G rant e De lls. Lonesome Va lley : Min gus M oun ta in ; pictur esqu e an artery of easy driving. clawe d out of a grim• mount ainside. From . . . It is with extreme pleasure that I en Stephen Abbott Jerome. the mining town: historic Ve rde \ Talley ; C larkdale. the smelter the mountain , to the eas twa rd , the V erde Vall ey unfolds itself like close my cheque for $2.00 and your record Randlett No listening ear town; Tu zigoot : C ott onwood, on the banks of the V erde: and that a magic carpet and not far beyond is O ak C reek Canyo n . purpl e card for r enewal. Uintah County, Utah. May catch the spirit sound. enchanted gard en spot. O ak C reek Ca nyon. keep you company and cliffs shimm ering aga inst the horizon.- vistas so inviting. Each copy of Ari zona Highways has been • Mr . Abbott's sugge stion is a good one. We Only the soul laid away carefully . In du e course they will ran a map in March issue. At this time George Clean-swept by long-dead fires r etu rn with m e to W ales to provid e a colorful Av ey , our staff arti st, is planning a map to be Whose leveled th reshold surve y of a beautiful country , to which con a permanent featur e of these pages and to servr Opens to the close unseen stant reference will be mad e. as a guid e for readers. Only the lonely soul And th e waiting ageless stars. LULU DANIEL HARDY.