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Desert Towers Climbing Information Located in Southeastern Utah, the Small Town of Moab Is a Desert Sandstone Paradise

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Desert Towers Climbing Information Located in Southeastern Utah, the Small Town of Moab Is a Desert Sandstone Paradise TM most practical multi-pitch solution v1.2 Desert Towers Climbing Information Located in southeastern Utah, the small town of Moab is a desert sandstone paradise. While Moab might be better known as a mountain biking mecca, or a touristy destination with the Canyonlands and Arches National Parks, it also offers unmatched climbing opportunities. The desert land surrounding Moab is characterized by mile after mile of sandstone cliffs, canyons, towers, walls, mesas, buttes and spires. This is a unique destination, and the climbing potential is endless. All that sculptured sandstone lined with perfect cracks makes Moab a very special place for a memorable climbing road-trip. While Moab has a little bit of everything to offer, from bouldering to aid climbing to cragging, many climb- ers come to the desert to polish their crack climbing skills, and to climb the famous sandstone towers. These unique sandstone spires will reward you with airy summits and amazing views of the desert landscape. Stand- ing on top of a desert tower is an unforgettable experience that should be on every serious climber’s resume. Fisher Castle 666 Towers Valley Cisco 46 Monticello Colorado National Colorado 128 191 Monument River ( Otto’s Route) Indian 211 Creek Arches Moab Bridger Jack National Spires 70 Park Canyonlands Six Shooters National Park 191 313 Washer E Woman Green Moses N S River W For more information on classic Desert Tower climbs and other climbing areas visit www.GearLoopTopo.com For more information on classic Desert Tower climbs and other climbing areas visit www.GearLoopTopo.com Climbing Climbers from all over the world come to the Moab area to test their crack climbing skills on the long, vertical and slick sandstone cracks of the desert. But climbing here is not for everyone. Crack climbing in the desert is serious business, and it’s an art that takes time to master. Most routes are 5.9 or harder, steep, long, and committing in nature. Sandy sections are very common, as well as loose blocks and flakes. The climbing is physically demanding, with few rests, and sometimes long runouts up unprotectable mandatory chimneys. Most routes are all trad, and fixed anchors can be old, and sometimes scary on less popular routes. However, many of the more popular classic routes have bolted belay stations, which speeds up the climbing significantly. In recent years many of the anchors and bolts have been replaced by the American Safe Climbing Association, and other good samaritans. To keep up the good work, the ASCA needs your donation! Still, don’t trust any old fixed protection, and always back-up the anchors if possible. Speaking of protection, this is not the place to learn how to place your first cam, or how to build an anchor. Experience is mandatory. Placing protection in soft sandstone is not like plugging a cam in granite. Cracks are usually very parallel and slick, and cams will sometimes move or slide easily inside the cracks. To minimize the risks when climbing desert cracks, place protection frequently. To climb most routes, you’ll need at least 2, sometimes 3 sets of cams if not more. Some routes (especially in Indian Creek) might require 5-6 or more of the same size cam. No matter how you look at it, you’ll need a huge rack! So borrow cams from friends, or go visit the local climbing store and start shopping! (More info in Gear section) Desert Tower routes tend to be committing in nature, and every climbing technique (even aid sometimes) will come in handy. Experience often makes the difference between success and failure on a desert route. Climb- ers should come to the desert prepared, and proper crack and chimney climbing techniques are a must before jumping on a tower route. If you need to polish your crack climbing skills before attempting a tower route, head out for some single pitch climbs in Indian Creek or Potash road for a few days. With the exception of the limestone found in Millcreek, most of the climbing around Moab is done on sanstone. Several types of sandstone exist, and depending on where you climb, the quality can range from excellent to crumbly to muddy. Of all the types of sandstone, Windgate is usually the most solid and the most pleasant to climb on. Windgate usually forms the long vertical splitter cracks, and this is the stuff that made Indian Creek famous. Climbing Areas Even though most of the climbing is done on sandstone, the climbing around Moab is nonetheless very diverse. For example, climbing around here can vary between bouldering at Big Bend, single pitch cragging on Potash Road, sport climbing on bolted routes in Millcreek, long aid climbs in the Fisher Towers, splitter crack climbing at Indian Creek or trad climbing up a 500’ classic desert tower. Here is a list of the main climbing areas found around Moab, and what they have to offer: • Potash Road: Also referred to as Wall Street, Potash offers the easiest roadside access (such as belaying sitting on the hood of your car!). With more than 100 climbs, this is often the first place visited by climbers new to Moab. You’ll find mostly single pitch routes, and it is a great practice area and introduction to sand- stone crack climbing. Expect to find cracks of all sizes, all grades, slabs and some bolted faces too. This is a good choice if the weather is uncertain. • Indian Creek: Located about 1 hour South of Moab, this area has the best Wingate crack climbing in the world. Elegant and long cracks abound on impeccable rock. If you’ve never been there, GO! Bring lots of cams, tape, and water. • Castle Valley: Castle Valley is home to some of the most popular tower routes in the desert, and for a good reason. Incredible spires stick out of the desert valley and provide some of the best climbing adventures around. With the LaSal Mountains as a background, the scenery is simply unmatched. • River Road: Many climbs line the side of this scenic road (US 128) paralleling the Colorado River. A variety of tower routes, cragging walls, and boulders are easilly accessible. • Fisher Towers: These mud-covered towers are both scary and beautiful. You’ll find short, single pitch tow- ers as well as long multi-pitch, scary aid climbs. Great spot to camp and hike too. If you have never been there, it is well worth a visit, even if it’s just for sight-seeing. • Big Bend: This is the most popular bouldering spot. It’s located along River Road, just accross from the Big Bend camping area. Lots of quality problems, clean rock, and flat landings. 2 For more information on classic Desert Tower climbs and other climbing areas visit www.GearLoopTopo.com • Arches National Park: Overrun by tourists taking pictures of the Arches, it has several worthy climbs to offer. Rock quality varies. • Canyonlands National Park: Tower climbing at its best. Tall spires, amazing scenery, remote location, sometimes long and difficult approaches. All the ingredients are there for a memorable climbing adventure. • Colorado National Monument: Although it is a little out of the way from Moab, the towers of Colorado National Monument offer excellent climbing, tall routes, great rock and short approaches. • Millcreek: Bolted sport climbing in Moab? On limestone??? Yes, and it’s cooler on hot days too! The LaSal Mountains (and the locals) kept this little paradise a secret, but now the secret is out. • Long Canyon: This area is almost as good as Indian Creek, and without the crowds! Great crack climbing, mostly 5.10 to 5.12. Gear Since you will mostly be climbing parallel sided cracks, cams are usually your best option as far as protection. Your basic desert rack should consist of at least 2-3 sets of cams (more for certain routes), from .5” to 4”. A set of nuts/stoppers, and a few big pieces (Camalots #5-6 or Big Bros) for the chimneys will complete your rack for most routes. Some like to use the small tri-cams, and nuts can work well in some places too. A gear sling is also a good idea to rack your gear, allowing you to free-up space on your harness. Because some tower routes me- ander a bit, it is helpful to bring many slings to help minimize rope drag. Some routes have a few bolts, so a few quickdraws are also useful. Be aware that every single route is different, and you’ll want to modify your rack from route to route. Try to get the best information possible before getting on a route and select each piece of your rack carefully. A detailed and route specific gear advice is found on each individual GearLoopTopo. One of the first things you’ll notice while climbing in the desert is that sand gets everywhere. Because sand is very abrasive, desert climbing takes a toll on your equipment very quickly. Bringing ropes that can take a bit of abuse is not a bad idea. Two 60 meter ropes are sometimes required for rappel descents, especially on towers, and will work best for most routes. Certain routes can also be done with a single 70 meter rope. Helmets should be worn on every desert route. Since a bit of loose rock will be encountered (especially on tow- ers), always climb and belay with a helmet. It is also a good idea to bring some rap slings and rap rings, either to replace old and worn out belay slings, or to use around large blocks.
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