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Desert Towers Routes Overview

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Desert Towers Routes Overview TM most practical multi-pitch solution v1.0 Desert Towers Routes Overview Can be busy. Prepare for alternatives. Well protected or easy for the grade. Spicy for the grade. East Face Route 5.10d (Sunflower Tower (Bridger Jack), Indian Creek) This desert classic has a lot of variety with awesome and aesthetic climbing the whole way. The second pitch ascends an excellent dihedral that is super fun, going from perfect hands to small hands and finishing with fingers. 3 pitches 20-25 minutes 2 hours Morning sun Fine Jade 5.11a (The Rectory, Castle Valley) One of the best classic desert climbs that shouldn’t be missed by the solid 5.10 leader. This climb has sustained but varied crack climb- ing from thin fingers to fist, short cruxes, amazing exposure and good pro. 4 pitches 1-1½ hours 3-5 hours Sun all day Honeymoon Chimney 5.11b (5.9 A0) (The Priest, Castle Valley) The route goes up a funky chimney system splitting the west face of The Priest. Get ready for some physically demanding squeezing and chimneying, wildly exposed stemming and face climbing. Great summit. 4 pitches 1-1½ hours 3-4 hours Afternoon sun In Search of Suds 5.10d (Washer Woman, Canyonlands Nat. Park) This is a great route, popular and sunny on mostly good quality rock. Add to this great exposure, and incredible views, and you have got an unforgettable adventure. 6 pitches 30 minutes 4-6 hours Afternoon until sunset Jah Man 5.10c (Sister Superior, Castle Valley) Jah Man is an outstanding route offering mostly finger and hand size cracks on fantastic rock, as well as a chimney and a face pitch. It is popular, and a good practice route before doing Fine Jade. 5 pitches 1-2 hours 3-5 hours Mid-morning to sunset Kor-Ingalls 5.9 (Castleton Tower, Castle Valley) This is one of the most popular routes in the desert, and for a good reason. All belays are very comfortable, the rock is mostly solid, and it demands a good variety of climbing techniques, especially for the chimney sections. 4 pitches 1-1½ hours 3-5 hours Morning to afternoon Learning to Crawl 5.11b (Thumbelina (Bridger Jack), Indian Creek) Tired of crack climbing? This fun and unique face climb follows superb rock up a mostly bolted arête to the top of Thumbelina. 2 pitches 20-25 minutes 30-60 minutes Morning sun Lightning Bolt Cracks 5.11a (North Six Shooter, Indian Creek) This is one of the best crack routes that the desert has to offer. It simply has everything: excellent rock, great pro, incredible exposure, and an amazing summit. Most do classic! 4 pitches 1-2 hours 3-4 hours Morning to noon For more information on classic Desert Tower climbs and other climbing areas visit www.GearLoopTopo.com For more information on classic Desert Tower climbs and other climbing areas visit www.GearLoopTopo.com North Chimney 5.9 (Castleton Tower, Castle Valley) The fastest way to the top of Castleton Tower, and although easier than Kor-Ingalls, it is more sustained in nature and a little more committing due to the loose rock and lack of rap anchors past the first pitch. 3 pitches 1-1½ hour 2-4 hours Mostly shade Ottos Route 5.9- (Independence Monument, Colorado Nat. Monument) Ottos route is a historical climb that was first climbed in 1911. It is a great climb with a few exposed sections, and an exciting last pitch to the cool summit. It is very popular, so it can get crowded on busy weekends. 5 pitches 45-60 minutes 2-4 hours Mostly shade (top pitches PM sun) Primrose Dihedrals 5.11d (5.10+ A0) (Moses, Canyonlands Nat. Park) Located in a beautiful, remote area of Canyonlands National Park, this climb is as good as it gets. It ascends a spectacular 500 foot tower on nearly perfect rock. Every single pitch is fun, and the cruxes are pretty short. 7 pitches 20-30 minutes 4-7 hours Sunrise to afternoon South Face 5.7 (South Six Shooter, Indian Creek) This one is by far the easiest desert tower route. It’s a great desert multi-pitch introduction for new leaders. It’s also an excellent route to bring a less-experienced climber up to a cool summit. 3 pitches 1-2 hours 1½-2 hours Most of the day Sparkling Touch 5.11a (Sparkling Touch (Bridger Jack), Indian Creek) This is a great route with lots of variety featuring sustained hands to fist crack, a bouldery crux face move and a cool step across a gap to gain the summit. The 5.11a move is bolt protected and the rest of the route is mostly 5.10. 3 pitches 20-25 minutes 2 hours Morning sun Stolen Chimney 5.10c (5.9 A0) (Ancient Art, Fisher Towers) This surprisingly clean route for the Fisher Towers has a little bit of everything, including steep well protected face climbing, a fun mud chimney, and a twisting and super exposed summit that you will remember for a long time. 4 pitches 20-30 minutes 2-3 hours Most of the day Thunderbolts 5.10b (Easter Island (Bridger Jack), Indian Creek) This is the shortest but most popular tower of the group. It is a super fun moderate route that requires a good blend of crack and face climbing skills. Although the 2nd pitch is well protected, the sandy holds will keep things exciting. 2 pitches 20-25 minutes 1-2 hours AM sun on P1, PM sun on P2 Waldens Room 5.10c (5.9 C1) (House of Putterman, Tusher Canyon) This moderate route will test all the skills needed in the desert: hand jams, a challenging chimney/offwidth, a short finger crack and a bouldery face top-out. The crux sections are pretty short and the 5.10 crack can easily be aided. 4 pitches 10-45 minutes 2-4 hours Morning sun .
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