SCHLESWIG-HOLSTEIN winds anddarkcloudsperiodicallydrive fromtheir thehardiestholidaymakers coast –remain thecountry’sanswertoCôte d’Azur. FrisianIslandsoffSchleswig-Holstein’s westernBut itscoastline–andespeciallytheNorth green farmlandinterrupted onlybywindfarmsandgrazingblack-and-white-splotched cows. Seas ’smostelite summerretreat. andBaltic sandpipers andsealshave madethissweepingpeninsulabetweentheNorth Sandy beaches,jauntyred-and-white byglaciers, stripedlighthouses,deepfjordscarved Schleswig-Holstein 700 Lübeck, the magnificently preserved medieval headquarters oftheHanseaticLeague.Lübeck, themagnificentlypreserved medievalheadquarters contemporary literary giant Günter GrasshaslongbeenbasedinThomas Mann’sbirthplace, Theodor Stormcaptured theweather-beaten Husumcoastinhispoetryandprose; ries. At homeinSeebüll, EmilNoldeswirledhisbrushesintostormyoil-paintwaves; author a superblyrecreated museum. settlement,aswellthestate’s Viking finestart navian overtones throughouttheregion, inFlensburg andSchleswig,hometo particularly cityandstate capital,. sprawls southofthebusyport are200 lakes scattered throughouttheprotected NaturparkHolsteinische Schweiz,which state’s widehorizons,grass-covered dunes,meanderingcanalsandglistening lakes. Over (sheltered seats).Yet straw‘beachbasket’ there’s somethingunusuallyhypnoticaboutthe  Of course, the fickle northern European climate makes for a funny sort ofanswer,ascold European climate forafunnysort makes course,theficklenorthern Of Much ofthepeninsula’sinterior iscomprisedofseeminglynever-ending expansesofflat, Local artists have embracedthemoodiersideofSchleswig-Holstein’sLocal artists beautyforcentu- Schleswig-Holstein belongedtoneighbouringDenmarkuntil1864andyou’llfindScandi-

     HIGHLIGHTS POPULATION: 2.37 MILLION

sky spin at Schleswig’s Schloss Gottorf ( sky spinatSchleswig’sSchlossGottorf p712 ) near historicHusum ( p718 ) stein’s tinyHalligen(islets)fromNordstrand, Hopping ofFlensburgDenmark justnorth ( kate p715 Germanyand) bridgeconnecting Border Crossing its puppetmuseum( p704 ) endearing puppettheatre ( p706 ), andvisit Puppet Watching Planet Watching Seacoast North Wave Riding Windsurf ( Windsurf p720 ) offSylt’s Hike acrosstheSchuster-Hike See the17th-centurynight Catch ashowatLübeck’s Sail toSchleswig-Hol-  AREA : 15,729 SQKM Halligen Schusterkate Schleswig Strandkörbe Lübeck

SCHLESWIG-HOLSTEIN B105 701

B192 Helsinki (Finland) Helsinki 01805-

Parchim Trelleborg (Sweden); Trelleborg Banzkow % B106

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Travemünde To Malmö & Malmö To Travemünde

710 81; An der St Petersburg (Russia) Petersburg St

Sea Wismar Baltic (Latvia); Riga To Lübek Poel % Island D E N M A R K ( A24 B105 Puttgarden Nakskov B104

MECKLENBURG– Rødbyhaun Heringsdorf () 160 060; Königstrasse 67a) WESTERN POMERANIA B207 Travemünde 00 50 km 30 miles B75 Neustadt %

( rg (Sweden) & Oslo & (Sweden) rg

Lübeck Airport bu Bansin Lübeck Mölln B207

B76

Büchen then Ratzeburg Langeland

Strand To Go To Malente B207 Lauenburg

B206 To Klaipeda (Lithuania) Klaipeda To B502 Bagenkop A1 Timmendorfer Plön Schweiz Naturpark Segeberg Bad Holsteinische Laboe Schwarzenbek 9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Recognised by Unesco as a World Heritage Recognised by Unesco as a World Heritage B404 Information Information Lübeck & Travemünde tourist office Lübeck & Travemünde tourist office lined with medievalhomes and merchants’ Lübeck’s ‘crown’. forming churches spired city in 1987, today this thriving provincial Site to explore. corners many enchanting retains Orientation Lübeck’s Altstadt (old town) is on an island The River. encircled by the canalised Trave to the gateway forms the western Holstentor (central train Altstadt; the Hauptbahnhof severalstation) and central bus station are west. metres hundred Ärztlicher Bereitschaftsdienst Buchhaus Weiland moniker of the ‘Queen of the Hanse’. Behind its the Hanse’. the ‘Queen of of moniker you’ll find streets (gate), landmark Holstentor 882 233; www.lubeck-tourism.de; 1; Holstentorplatz h Jun-Sep, 9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat Oct-May) Sells €7/14) offering the Happy Day Card (per 1/3 days Good selection of foreign-language books. Good selection of foreign-language Untertrave 98) Medical services. Untertrave 98) Medical Hamburg Kaltenkirchen B503 Kiel B206 Bargteheide Høruphav B4 A1 B76 Molfsee ὈὈ Eckernförde A215 A7 Quickborn Kappeln Elmshorn A210 Hamburg- Sønderborg Neumünster Uetersen Glücksburg B205 Schleswig

Itzehoe River B201 Flensburg A23

A7 Elbe B77 Rendsburg Büdelsdorf Schusterkate Jübeck Padborg A23 B203 Heide B201 Brunsbüttel B200 D E N M A R K Schlüttsiel B73 Dagebüll-Hafen Büsum B5 LOWER SAXONY Hamburg, Schleswig-Holstein- B5 B199 Cuxhaven Gröde To Nordstrand Rømø SCHLESWIG-HOLSTEIN •• Lübeck Niebüll Seebüll Peter Sankt Ording B5 Bremerhaven Hooge Klanxbüll Wyk Föhr , which is good for rail journeys is good for rail journeys , which Langeness Sylt Rantum List Wittdün Wadden Sea Park (€30)

National Park

To Helgoland To National Wadden Sea Hamburg Wilhelmshaven

National Park Lower Saxony 0451 / pop 212,207 Schleswig-Holstein North Within northern Germany, up to five peo- Within northern Germany, up to five Hörnum Frisian Islands Wadden Sea Westerland SCHLESWIG-HOLSTEIN Sea North

Getting There & Around Getting There & Around LÜBECK LÜBECK Hanseatic League (see boxed text, p36 ) and its p36 League text, (seeHanseatic boxed pearance is an enduring reminder of its role of pearance is an enduring reminder the mighty the founding cities of as one of % than 1000 boasting more A 12th-century gem ap- historical buildings, Lübeck’s picture-book Mecklenburg–Western Pomerania on all re- Mecklenburg–Western but it no single rates, are gional trains. There than a regular works out cheaper still often solo travellers. even for ticket, midnight on weekends) anywhere in the in the midnight anywhere on weekends) and Schleswig-Holstein Hamburg, states of Ticket from 9am until 3am the following day (from ple travelling together can make enormous can make together ple travelling with a savings direct Lübeck– Copenhagen service.Copenhagen Lübeck– direct national ferry services ( p707 ), as does Kiel p707 servicesnational ferry ( ). Rail links with include a p711 ( Lübeck has an airport serving low-cost air- – see ferries lines, as well as international also has inter- Travemünde . Nearby p706 lonelyplanet.com