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Pray Shop Susan's Rome Hot Spots Where to Eat Where to Shop Where

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Pray Shop Susan's Rome Hot Spots Where to Eat Where to Shop Where www.star-telegram.com S1 Sunday, July 13, 2014 7E The Spanish Steps, as viewed from Via dei Condotti Gianicolo Hill offers lovely views of Rome, and is worth the winding, steep climb. Special to the Star-Telegram/Susan Huston Special to the Star-Telegram/Susan Huston ny but impressive place chase when you arrive. Shop Via dei Condotti, near the Susan’s Rome hot spots Italy (officially called The Holy While there is free entry When I arrive in Rome, my Spanish Steps. Dior, Gucci, See) is home to the pope to St. Peter’s Basilica and inner fashionista always Valentino, Louis Vuitton, Where to eat Continued from 6E and to Roman Catholicism the crypt, you must pay 5 takes over — fast. MaxMara, Prada, Salvatore Gelato shops: worldwide. euros to climb to the top of Rome is the place to Ferragamo, Giorgio Arma- ■ Giolitti, Via Uffici del Vicario Vatican City, the the famed dome; for a shop for the newest and ni — all the big boys of de- 40, www.giolitti.it (near the The food at trattorias and world’s smallest country, spectacular view of all of boldest fashion, whether sign are there. Prepare Pantheon) osterias is authentic Italian has its own supermarket, Rome, it’s worth every bit you prefer the expensive yourself, though, for the ■ Gelateria del Teatro, Via dei home-cooking, like the pharmacy, heliport, rail- and more. boutiques along the Via hefty price tag that comes Coronari, 65 (near Piazza “nonna” or grandma way station, publishing Try to arrive before 10 Condotti or quaint bou- with shopping in the de- Navona) would make. Both types house, newspaper, radio a.m. to go faster through tiques and antique-filled sign capital of the world, ■ Gelato De San Crispino, Via typically are family-owned and TV station, and bank the security checkpoint shops near Piazza Navona because these designer della Panetteria 42, www.ilge- businesses, which means and post office with its and avoid long lines. Or — which, with its fine looks don’t come cheap. latodisancrispino.it (near the good food at a good price. own stamps and currency. head over around 4 p.m., craftsmen shops of bas- After you’ve gotten over Trevi Fountain) Start your typical Ital- Since taking the reins just in time to attend the kets, frames, antiques, sticker shock, don’t be Favorite eats: ian morning with a crois- from Pope Benedict in daily Mass at 5 p.m. Dress glass, jewelry and clothing, surprised if you feel pres- ■ Piccola Roma, Via Uffici del sant and cappuccino in one 2013, Pope Francis and his code hint: no shorts, short is a true shopper’s delight. sured to make a purchase. Vicario, 36: One of my best of Rome’s prettiest piazzas humble, gentle ways have skirts or bare shoulders, Check out the streets Most Italian shopkeepers meals in all of Rome. Just let — Campo de’ Fiori (Field of attracted huge crowds. You even during the hot sum- along Piazza del Gesu for take a personal interest in them bring out the Roma Flowers). Each morning it can see Pope Francis, if he mer months. I always have inexpensive clothing fitting you in what they specials and dig in. is filled with flowers, fruit is there, each Sunday at a lightweight sweater in my shops. Silk, cotton and think is best and will ■ Maccheroni Ristorante, and vegetables, as well as noon when he appears at backpack, just in case. wool has been made and sometimes even follow you Pizza delle Coppelle, 44, household items and spic- his study’s window over- Nearby, one of my fa- sold along these streets for around the store to do so. www.ristorantemaccheron- es. Wander through the looking St. Peter’s Square. vorite walks in Rome can decades. If you don’t make a pur- i.com: Sit inside near the big stalls while watching locals Each Wednesday, he lead you to the finest view This is also where you chase, expect a disap- glassed-in kitchen to see all bargain with the mer- conducts “general audi- of all — atop Gianicolo Hill. will find my favorite pointed reaction. the action, or outside for chants. ences” for the public. You The panoramic view of “shopping street,” Via dei In Italy, the shopkeepers romance. For lunch, pop into a will need a free ticket if you Rome is worth the winding Coronari. It’s lined with are passionate about their ■ L’Osteria de “Memmo,” Via small local pizzeria or for- want a seat. Apply in ad- and steep climb. Making small, one-of-a-kind bou- merchandise, from paint- dei Soldati, 22/23, www.oste- no, a bakery, for a tasty vance to Prefecture of the your way down the hill, tiques selling wares from ings to designer bags, and riadememmo.it: Always a meal. I like to stop for Papal Household, 00120 through sweet-smelling antiques and clothing to it shows in their disap- great meal, with the owner lunch at Pizzeria Pasquale Vatican City State; the vines and cascading flow- fine linens. pointment if you don’t se- serving up a booming Italian (Via dei Prefetti, 34) and Vatican’s website, ers, to the cobblestoned One of my favorite finds lect their recommenda- personality along with a large order a pasta dish and a www.vatican.va, has addi- Trastevere neighborhood is Anna Maria Quattrini tions. Italian shopkeepers selection of homemade dish- glass of wine for the euro tional information. Be sure below is a stunning and (Via dei Coronari,185/186). have a genuine interest in es. equivalent of about $7.50 to click on “Prefecture of somewhat spiritual adven- Owner Anna Maria Quat- assisting and helping you ■ La Campana, Vicolo della U.S. Pasquale has been the Papal Household.” ture in itself. trini, who counts herself find the perfect item to Campana 18, www.ristorante- around more than 25 years The Vatican Museum, Trastevere is a medieval friends with Italian politi- proudly wear when you get lacampana.com: One of and is a favorite for the with its more than 4 miles neighborhood that is the cians including the coun- home. Rome’s oldest restaurants, staff at the near by Parlia- of treasures of art and ar- rustic, colorful and more try’s president, personally Take note that most serving authentic Roman food ment Building. chitecture, is certainly “real” side of Rome. After selects clothing for her cli- shops open at 10 a.m. and for more than 100 years. Try A good lunch will hold worth spending some time the strenuous hike, a long ents. I have discovered ma- close at 1:30 p.m. for the the pasta with artichoke you until dinner, with the in. Michelangelo’s newly lunch in a small mom- ny new styles thanks to her daily siesta. Italians take cream sauce. help of a gelato. Snacking restored Sistine Chapel and-pop trattoria boasting keen fashion eye. Check their siesta seriously. Years is not “a thing” in Italy. cannot be missed.The mu- 100 years of serving their out her separates that you ago in Venice, I was Where to shop The meals are hearty and seum entry cost is 20 euros best vino and pasta is the can mix into your vacation abruptly ushered out of a ■ Anna Maria Quattrini, Via they last. But don’t plan on via the Vatican website; big payoff. wardrobe. store when siesta time dei Coronari 185/186 eating dinner before 8 p.m. buy a ticket in advance or This is truly the Rome I You will find dozens of rolled around. I did not get www.annamariaquattrini.it: or you will give away that endure long lines to pur- love. designer shops along the to make my purchase until Beautiful clothing and acces- you are not Italian. To en- it was over. sories boutique located next sure a spot for dinner, However, most shops to her renowned antique make sure to call ahead or stay open with later eve- shop. have your hotel call for a ning hours ranging from ■ Chopin, Via Cola di Rienzo, reservation. about 3 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. 195, www.chopinroma.com: A While at dinner, relax Remember your man- made-in-Italy clothing line for and take your time. Allo- ners while shopping in women. Affordable prices with cate at least two to three Italy. When you enter a three stores in Rome. hours. With a finely pre- store, greet the shopkeeper ■ La Fornace, Via dei Coronari pared meal of local and with a “Buongiorno!” 136: Handmade jewelry, often fresh ingredients, it would (Good morning!) or “Come using Murano glass. be a waste to rush. sta?” (How are you?). On ■ Cotton Club, Caterina Da Another surprise to the way out, an “Arrive- Siena, 56: Known for its hand- Americans: Don’t wait on derci” or goodbye is cus- made and Etruscan jewelry servers to bring the check. tomary. Even if your Italian designs. They won’t. Ask for it is basic, give it a try. Don’t when you are ready, polite- worry about your pronun- Where to stay ly, of course. Italians are ciation skills. Three- and four-star hotels in not concerned with turn- Like clothing, jewelry is Italy are lovely and intimate. ing tables to get hungry everywhere in Rome. These hotels get to know you customers in and out; they I always make a point to like family; I receive a Christ- want their diners to take all visit Magda Nica (Via dei mas card yearly from my the time they need to enjoy Coronari, 136) for some favorite — Hotel Portoghesi.
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