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The Art of Bonsai (PDF) PUBLICATION 426-601 The Art Of Bonsi Diane Relf, Extension Specialist, Horticulture, Virginia Tech Bonsai is an art form that stems from ancient Asian culture, Branches that occur lower down on the trunk should be the originating in China and developed by the Japanese. In longest, and biggest in diameter, with branches growing the 13th century, the Japanese collected and potted wild higher on the trunk becoming successively shorter and trees that had been dwarfed by nature. These naturally smaller in diameter. This imitates the natural appearance formed miniatures were some of the first bonsai. of a tree, suggesting that the lowest branches are the oldest (biggest/longest), and higher branches, having grown A bonsai (pronounced “bones-eye”) is literally a “tree in a more recently, are smaller and shorter. pot,” which further imitates, in miniature, the appearance of an old tree in nature. Old specimens in nature, unlike Bonsai can be classified into about 10 basic styles, of juvenile trees, have compact rounded tops, and horizontal which the most common are; formal upright, informal or drooping branches, which make them appear aged and upright, slanting, cascade, and semicascade. These graceful. There are three sizes of bonsai, ranging from classifications are based on the overall shape of the tree under 5 inches to about 30 inches in height. and how much the trunk slants away from an imaginary vertical axis. Not all plants are equally effective as bonsai. To produce a realistic illusion of a mature tree, all parts of the ideal • The formal upright style is one type that is considered bonsai - trunk, branches, twigs, leaves, flowers, fruits, to be easy for the novice bonsai grower. This style buds, roots - should be in perfect proportion with the features a straight trunk and a bottom branch that size of the tree. Plants used for bonsai should have small is lower and extends farther from the trunk than the leaves or leaves that become small under bonsai culture. opposite branch. Plants with overly large leaves, such as the avocado, will look out of proportion if chosen for bonsai. Sycamores also develop leaves that are too large. Certain species of both maple and elm trees usually respond well to bonsai culture and develop leaves that are in proportion. Among the plants with small leaves and needles appropriate for bonsai are spruce, pine, zelkova, and pomegranate. Leaves will miniaturize naturally the longer a tree grows in a shallow container, but one must still begin with a relatively small-leafed type. Plants chosen for bonsai should have attractive bark, and the trunk must give the illusion of maturity. The trunk should have girth, but must remain in proportion to the entire tree and should taper gradually toward the top of the tree. An ideal trunk has good buttress rootage at the base, and graceful movement as it rises to the apex. www.ext.vt.edu Produced by Communications and Marketing, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, 2009 Virginia Cooperative Extension programs and employment are open to all, regardless of race, color, national origin, sex, religion, age, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, or marital or family status. An equal opportunity/affirmative action employer. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, Virginia State University, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture cooperating. Mark A. McCann, Director, Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia Tech, Blacksburg; Alma C. Hobbs, Administrator, 1890 Extension Program, Virginia State, Petersburg. • The informal upright style is the best choice for beginners • The cascade style of bonsai represents a natural tree since creation of this type teaches the most about bonsai growing down the face of an embankment. A cascaded design. The trunk is upright, but curving rather than planting usually looks best in a deep round or hexagonal straight, usually forming a zig-zag pyramidal shape. container. Major branches occur at the angles where the trunk bends, and the apex is aligned over the base of the trunk regardless of the directional shifts in the trunk. Achieving the alignment of trunk base and apex makes the tree asymmetrically balanced. • The semicascade style has a curving trunk that does not reach the bottom of the container as in the cascade style. Prostrate junipers and flowering plants adapt well to both of these styles. • In the slanting style, the trunk has a single more acute angle than in the informal upright style. The lowest branch spreads in a direction opposite to that in which the tree slants. 2 Bonsai Plant Guide PINE: Austrian, Pinus nigra Trees and shrubs are suitable for traditional bonsai. Bristlecone, Pinus aristata Specialty nurseries often have a wide selection of dwarf Japanese red, Pinus densiflora and semidwarf varieties of many species. Dwarf plants, Japanese white, Pinus parviflora however, do not always convey the same impression as Japanese black, Pinus thunbergiana their full size counterparts because their growth habits are Mugo, Pinus mugo quite different. Some trees and shrubs that work well as Scots(Scotch), Pinus sylvestris bonsai are azalea, beech, boxwood, ginkgo, maple, oak, Swiss stone, Pinus cembra pine, wisteria, and zelkova. White, Pinus strobus (dwarf varieties) AZALEA: WISTERIA: Hiryu, Rhododendron obtusum Japanese, Wisteria floribunda Satsuki azalea, Rhododendron indicum Kurume, Rhododendron obtusum YEW: Taxus species and cultivars BEECH: American, Fagus grandifolia ZELKOVA: European, Fagus sylvatica Japanese, Zelkova serrata BOXWOOD: American gardeners have taken bonsai concepts and Buxus species applied them to houseplants. By combining traditional procedures for handling houseplants with bonsai ELM: concepts of design, growers have created different Chinese, Ulmus parvifolia (many small-leaved bonsai styles. The following woody plants (native to cultivars) the tropics and subtropics of the world) have been FIRETHORN: grown as indoor bonsai. These plants can be obtained Pyracantha species from either local or specialized nurseries. GINKGO: ACACIA: Ginkgo biloba Acacia baileyana HAWTHORN: ARALIA: English, Crataegus laevigata Balfour, Polyscias balfouriana Washington, Crataegus phaenopyrum Ming, Polyscias fruticosa Geranium-leaf, Polyscias guilfoylei HEATHER: Scotch heather, Calluna vulgaris CAMELLIA: Common, Camellia japonica HORNBEAM: Sasanqua, Camellia sasanqua American, Carpinus caroliniana (for large bonsai) Korean, Carpinus coreana CITRUS: Japanese, Carpinus japonica Citrus species (calamondin, kumquat, lemon, lime, orange, and tangerine) IVY: English ivy, Hedera helix and cultivars CHERRY: Surinam, Eugenia uniflora MAPLE: Japanese, Acer palmatum (use palmate rather than CYPRESS: dissectum type, preferably a seedling, not a grafted Monterey, Cupressus macrocarpa tree) FIG: Amur, Acer ginnala Mistletoe, Ficus diversifolia Hedge, Acer campestre Trident, Acer buergeranum HERB: Elfin, Cuphea hypssopifolia OAK: Willow oak, Quercus phellos 3 HIBISCUS: Creating Your Own Bonsai Chinese hibiscus, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis ‘Cooperi’ Plant Selection HOLLY: It is safest to begin with common plants that do well in Miniature, Malpighia coccigera your area. Be sure that the plants you consider meet the JACARANDA: requirements for good bonsai. Some old favorites for Jacaranda acutifolia bonsai specimens are Sargent juniper (Juniperus chinensis ‘Sargentii’), Japanese black pine (Pinus thunbergiana), JADE: Japanese wisteria (Wisteria floribunda), Chinese wisteria Crassula species (Wisteria sinensis), Japanese flowering cherry (Prunus yedoensis), and Japanese or sawleaf zelkova (Zelkova JASMINE: serrata). Nursery stock can be a very good selection Jasminum parkeri since the plant’s roots have already become accustomed Orange, Murraea paniculata to being containerized. Look for well-rooted specimens Confederate star, Trachelospermum jasminoides with good branches. LAUREL: Plants for bonsai can be collected from the wild, but it Indian, Ficus retusa is a slow method and there are many unknown factors. It is difficult to tell the age of a plant found in the wild MYRTLE: and since they must be collected while dormant, it is also Classic, Myrtus communis difficult to be sure that the specimen is healthy. Take all the equipment needed to keep the plant in good condition OAK: after digging. This includes plastic bags to wrap the root Cork, Quercus suber ball, moss to pack around the roots, and water to keep Silk, Grevillea robusta the specimen moist if it cannot be replanted soon after digging. Don’t forget the crowbar; roots are sometimes ORCHID TREE: wrapped securely around rocks. Bauhinia variegata Be sure to have permission before digging plants on OLIVE: property other than your own, and don’t forget to check Common, Olea europaea the endangered species list for protected plants before you PEPPER TREE: begin. It is not legal to take plants from national parks California, Schinus molle and other conserved areas. PLUM: After the plant is selected, dug, and brought home, plant Natal, Carissa grandiflora it in a protected area in your garden. Water the plant and feed it sparingly. After one year, it is ready to be placed in POINCIANA: a training container. A light pruning of the branches can Royal, Delonix regia take place at potting time, but training should not begin for another year. POMEGRANATE: Dwarf, Punica granatum ‘Nana’ It is possible to propagate your own bonsai. It is a slow method, but
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