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Trip Report – Botswana & Caprivi 27/02/2017 – 25/03/2017

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Trip Report – Botswana & Caprivi 27/02/2017 – 25/03/2017 TRIP REPORT – BOTSWANA & CAPRIVI 27/02/2017 – 25/03/2017 Botswana Section : Murrae & Tommy Stephens, Piggs peak, Swaziland L/Rover Disco 4 Namibia Section: With Mags Doherty, Johannesburg Route Summary: Ppk(Swaziland) –Jhb-Kalagadi Park- Central Kalahari-Maun-Caprivi-Nxai Pan-Ppk. 6,100kms 27 days 9 days camping 7 self-catering, 11 catered Route Map – Botswana Section Namibia Section Travel Swaziland to Kalahari Transfrontier Park KTP: Overnight Johannesburg with Mags – get supplies – Family dinner. Entertaining as usual Mags to Van Zyls Rus Hotel: allow 9 hrs. Make certain of route from Hotazhel, as route has changed. Good Biltong at Vryburg. The Kalahari veld was unbelievably lush at this time of year, esp as good rains had fallen in Feb. VZ Rus hotel remains well managed and a worthy stopover. I should investigate other options as a change for our next trip, as we have now only stayed here for all our trips west. VZ Rus Hotel to Kalahari Tented Camp (KTC): Went via Middelputs border to enjoy excellent Bots tar road. At border purchased multiple entry visa from Bots as we were going out and back into Botswana after Caprivi. Also, we entered KTP (Kalahari Transfronteir Park) on Bots side at Tweerevieren (don’t go back into RSA at Bokspits if you intend exiting KTP through Kaa or Mabua back into Botswana – this removes unneccesary extra border formalities). The lush vegetation continued all the way to the camp. Parts of the veld would compete with the Namaqua flower show in August. Saw cheetah en route (only cheetah seen in the 5 day KTP section of our trip, which was unusual as we have usually seen lots more in previous visits). KTC was looking rather run down. We stayed in unit 4 and the tent and roof fabric needed repair. It also was not the best unit for views onto river. Units 9, 10 and 11 and 12 are far better for this. You can pre-book units by arranging with admin at Mata Mata once you have a reservation number from Sanparks. Must do this next time if we again cannot get into one of the smaller bush camps which are so popular you need to book at least 11 months in advance. KTP: KTC (3 days): We did day drives out of camp mainly along the Auob river. We expected to see less game due to all the standing water in the Park, but we were not disappointed. There were good herds of antelope and we saw lion every day out. It’s really important to get out of camp early – this is prime game viewing time for predators and we would have missed out if we had slacked off in camp. We had nightly visits to the waterhole in the riverbed in front of camp from Lion then Leopard then lion again, but sadly our view from tent 4 was restricted. The other guys must have seen the action clearly. Took a trip to nearby Mata Mata where a Hyaena was lying in the waterhole having been mauled by probably a lion. She was gone the next day, so must have gone into the bush, but I can’t imagine she survived. We could smell her infection from the hide about 40m away. A classic Kalahari thunderstorm broke over camp whilst we were out game viewing on our 2nd day. The rain and wind was so heavy it damaged our flysheet and even tore off the one over the unit next to us. Water soaked the floors in the tent and the staff had a real challenge making the tents habitable before nightfall. The park aims to upgrade all the tents to the same standard as unit 10(?) (already done), and its clear this is essential to prevent rain water from soaking the bedding etc. The roads had long sections of standing water after this downpour, and it was funny to see all the guys with heavy capable 4x4s skirting the edge of this water on the bumpy shoulder to avoid the water, whereas its clear the road surface underneath is solid and the water only about 400mm deep. We capitalised on this by driving through the water alongside a lioness walking next to road, giving us an excellent view of her while the others were all jockeying for position off road on the wrong side. Crazy – all the gear but no idea. Gharaghab Bush Camp (2 days): The drive from KTC to Garaghab is loooong. As with all driving in a park, you need to allow for an average of 35km/h so we took at least 10 hrs for this trip. We encountered a huge male lion right on the side of the road under a shady tree. No other vehicles - so what a pleasure. He was obviously tired from a night’s feeding/mating/whatever so he wasn’t the least interested in even lifting his head to admire SWAMBO or her camera gadgets. We reached Nossob just before 1 pm - very fortunately as the fuel station and shop close from 1 to 2pm, and we needed diesel and water for Garaghab and Kaa gate. North of Nossob we came across another male Lion in the road just as the Park grader was coming from the north. He growled at the grader but the driver had obviously seen this all before and didn’t back off at all – he had a job to do. Fortunately the lion returned as soon as the grader passed and we got some pictures. Again, no other cars! Try to experience this in the Kruger Park! We were allocated tent 4 at the Garaghab camp and were really impressed by the make-over these tents have received. Everything was neat and new and all worked perfectly. The views from the tent were spectacular with the Kalahari so green. The camp has one drawback and that is that there are no short game drives out of camp. There is a one-way direction in and a one-way out, so you need to do a long loop if you wish to explore. For us though this forced rest was a relief. And to add to our good fortune a lioness arrived the next morning with her cub (the camp attendant said she had had 2 cubs about 3 days previously) and spent most of the morning between camp and the waterhole. The cub was quite old (about 5 months estimate) and it just drank and drank and drank water all day until we were convinced it was sickly. We worked ourselves up about that so much so that I walked the 30m or so to the nearby deck where cell signal is available to Google the cause of excessive drinking but could not connect. On my way back (unknown to me) the lioness had moved to just behind and to the side of our tent, where she must have covered my progress, but thankfully left me alone. There I was looking for where she had been all morning without moving. Shows how things can change in an instant. She then left the cub after much plaintiff moaning but came back in the late afternoon to collect her cub again and off they went walking right through camp and setting off an excited twittering from the guests. A male lion arrived in the night and was very interested in the smells of the female and her cub. He left early the next morning, we hope not to find and kill the remaining cub. All in all we had seen lion pretty much every day and every night of our trip in the KTP. We later learned from the Ranger at Nossob that the excessive drinking is in fact normal behaviour when lions have been away from water for some days, so with luck the cub is still alive and well. Kaa Gate – Thutapedi Camp The drive from Garaghab to Thutapedi was pretty uneventful. We saw very little game once we left the Nossob river. You can stay over at Kaa gate but they do not encourage this as these are not official campsites – only meant for staff and emergencies. We decided to keep our booking at Thutapedi and it was good to get some experience of this side of the park. We were not expecting much as we had done the Polentswa trail about 8 years ago and found it very bleak in terms of game viewing. Although this time again we did not see much game and admittedly we were only using Thutapedi as an overnight stop, this part of the park does have potential. The pans on the Kaa game viewing trail (Sisatswe, Gnus-Gnus and Swart pans) are magnets for game and we did hear lions all night from our camp, as well as seeing their fresh prints early next day on our way out. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (KTP) to Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR) We exited Kaa gate with minimal formality. The road to Hukuntsi goes via Zutshwa. The section between Kaa and Zutshwa is very scenic and we came upon a pan (Jeff Morris Pan?) with large herds of game even though this was outside the Park (KTP). At Zutshwa we got stopped by a ‘Road Toll’ official and had to pay some BWP 100 for using the road from Zutshwa to Hukuntsi. Turned out he was indeed correct as there was an official notice about this, and the money went into a deposit box. The Road to Hukuntsi has been upgraded so the 100 Pula was worthwhile.
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