Contributors to Fashion Designers Success
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UNIVERSITY OF NAIROBI CONTRIBUTORS TO FASHION DESIGNERS SUCCESS: A CASE STUDY OF TOP FASHION DESIGNERS IN KENYA By KUTE ESTHER JOYCE ALOO (B51/78301/09) Supervised by: Mrs. F. Odundo Submitted in fulfillment of the Requirements for a degree in M.A (Design) 26th July, 2015 DECLARATION This thesis is my original work and has not been submitted by any other researcher to the best of my knowledge. STUDENT: KUTE ESTHER JOYCE ALOO REGISRATION NUMBER: B51/78301/09 Signature: ____________________________ Date: ________________________________ I confirm that the work reported in this thesis was carried out by the candidate under my supervision and has been submitted for review with my approval as University supervisor. SUPERVISOR: MRS. F. ODUNDO Signature: ____________________________ Date: _________________________________ SCHOOL OF THE ARTS AND DESIGN DIRECTOR Signature: _____________________________ Date: _________________________________ ii DEDICATION This dissertation is dedicated to all the fashion designers on a journey to realizing commercial success. iii ACKNOWLEDGEMENT This M A thesis and its dissertation has been realized because of the support from a number of people and institutions; the University of Nairobi for awarding me a scholarship and hence the opportunity to pursue further studies in my first love and passion, Design. My parents for encouraging me throughout my studies and offering substitute financial support whenever needed, Dr. Lilac Osanjo who nudged me towards a more focused study, Mrs. F. Odundo, my supervisor whose strict guidance I have valued and appreciate, the fashion designers who created time from their busy schedules to be interviewed providing much needed insight to the study, my family, friends and all the people who gave me invaluable information and advice that helped in the study and who gave me support during the tougher times. I am forever grateful. iv ABSTRACT The fashion design industry is a multibillion dollar industry in many industrialized countries such as the USA, India, and China, France, Italy and many more, which translates to other benefits for the country’s economy and for the designers in the industry. However, this amount of revenue collection from fashion in Kenya is yet to be achieved. The Kenyan fashion design industry faces numerous challenges. The industry has several players, and there is always a crop of talented fashion designers coming up, however, only a few fashion designers are successful. There is very little information on what constitutes success factors for fashion designers in Kenya. This MA research and its dissertation looked at how to realize the potential of the fashion design industry in Kenya through exploring the factors crucial to fashion designers success and evaluate how fashion designers in Kenya could effectively use these factors to succeed. The study adopted a qualitative approach in the form of case studies of four top fashion designers in Kenya, which involved semi-structured interviews with the designers to explore their knowledge and experiences supported by secondary research such as media reports and success factors of international fashion designers. Internal forces; expertise, available resources and financial resources, and external forces; economic, political, technological and ecological factors were found to affect how successful a fashion designer becomes. This was corroborated by the four fashion designers studied who agreed these forces did affect their businesses, but with years of experience had found ways and strategies to work with or around these factors to achieve some level of success. It was found that amongst the biggest hindrance to the success of fashion designers in Kenya was lack of practical technical skills, lack of patience to work for other veteran fashion designers to gain experience and lack of business management skills. v ABBREVIATIONS AND ACRONYMS ACTIF AFRICAN COTTON & TEXTILE INDUSTRIES FEDERATION AFADK ASSOCIATION OF FASHION DESIGNERS OF KENYA AWEP AFRICAN WOMEN’S ENTREPRENEURSHIP PROGRAM BEP BREAK EVEN POINT CAD/CAM COMPUTER AIDED DESIGN/ COMPUTER AIDED MANUFACTURING CSIRO COMMONWEALTH SCIENTIFIC INVESTIGATION AND RESEARCH ORGANIZATION CSR CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY EPZ EXPORT PROCESSING ZONE FAFA FESTIVAL FOR AFRICAN FASHION AND ART FGD FOCUS GROUP DISCUSSION FUQ FOLLOW UP QUESTION KEBS KENYA BUREAU OF STANDARDS KTB KENYA TOURISM BOARD KICOMI KISUMU COTTON MILLS LPO LOCAL PURCHASE ORDER vi MSF MÉDECINS SANS FRONTIÈRES NHIF NATIONAL HOSPITAL INSURANCE FUND NSSF NATIONAL SOCIAL SECURITY FUND PAYE PAY AS YOU EARN (TAX) QC QUALITY CONTROL VAT VALUE ADDED TAX vii TABLE OF CONTENTS DECLARATION ....................................................................................................................... ii DEDICATION .......................................................................................................................... iii ACKNOWLEDGEMENT ....................................................................................................... iv ABSTRACT ............................................................................................................................... v ABBREVIATIONS AND ACRONYMS………………...…………………………………..vi TABLE OF CONTENTS ....................................................................................................... viii 1.0 CHAPTER ONE: INTRODUCTION .................................................................................. 1 1.1 BACKGROUND INFORMATION ................................................................................. 1 1.2 PROBLEM STATEMENT .............................................................................................. 4 1.3 OBJECTIVES .................................................................................................................. 5 1.4 RESEARCH QUESTIONS .............................................................................................. 5 1.5 JUSTIFICATION ............................................................................................................. 6 1.6 LIMITATIONS ................................................................................................................ 7 1.7 CONCEPTUAL FRAMEWORK .................................................................................... 9 1.8 SCOPE ........................................................................................................................... 10 2.0 CHAPTER TWO: LITERATURE REVIEW .................................................................... 11 viii 2.1 DEFINING SUCCESS ................................................................................................... 11 2.2 SUCCESS FACTORS IN DESIGN ............................................................................... 11 2.2.1 EXTERNAL FORCES ........................................................................................... 12 2.2.1.1 Economic factors ............................................................................................. 12 2.2.1.2 Political factors ................................................................................................ 13 2.2.1.3 Ecological factors ............................................................................................ 14 2.2.1.4 Technological factors ...................................................................................... 14 2.2.2 INTERNAL FORCES ............................................................................................ 16 2.2.2.1 Expertise .......................................................................................................... 16 2.2.2.2 Financial resources .......................................................................................... 17 2.2.2.3 Available facilities ........................................................................................... 18 2.3 DESIGN EDUCATION ................................................................................................. 20 2.3.1 FASHION DESIGN EDUCATION ....................................................................... 22 2.4 THE FASHION DESIGN ENVIRONMENT IN KENYA............................................ 23 3.0 CHAPTER THREE: RESEARCH METHODOLOGY .................................................... 25 3.1 RESEACH DESIGN ...................................................................................................... 25 3.2 TARGET POPULATION .............................................................................................. 25 ix 3.3 SAMPLE SELECTION ................................................................................................. 25 3.3.1 Ann McCreath ......................................................................................................... 26 3.3.2 Monica Kanari ........................................................................................................ 28 3.3.3 Peggy Onyango ....................................................................................................... 29 3.3.4 Deepa Dosaja .......................................................................................................... 30 3.4 RESEARCH INSTRUMENTS ...................................................................................... 32 3.4.1 Case Studies ............................................................................................................ 32 3.4.2 Interview protocol ..................................................................................................