The Alice Look Lice, Like Her Literary Namesake, Is Practical and Adventurous
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PAT TERN A1 repurposed The Alice look lice, like her literary namesake, is practical and adventurous. She likes A a silhouette that matches her personality: comfortable, attractive, A RELAXED SILHOUET TE with a little bit of flare, but without a lot of fuss. Stylistically, her go-to WITH tank top is classic without being boring (note the extra points of fabric CLASSIC along the bottom edge). Dress it up or down depending on the season or the APPEAL circumstance: Look sharp paired with leggings or pencil pants and booties or exude a more relaxed elegance with flowy Bohemian beach pants and sandals. In the variation, stitch a silk scarf at the bottom of the bodice for a peek into Alice’s daydreams (but without the crazy tea parties). FABRIc aNd N OTIONS TOOLS NOTE: Sizes S, M, and L of View 1 can be • Straight pins made from 44"/45" fabric or 60" fabric. Sizes • Scissors XL and XXL must be made from 60" fabric. • Tailor’s chalk or fabric-marking pencil • 17/8 yards 45" fabric (Sizes S, M),¼ 2 • Clear ruler or seam gauge yards 45" fabric (Size L); or 17/8 yards 60" • Medium safety pin (if adding elastic fabric (Sizes S, M), 2 yards 60" fabric casing) (Size L), 2¼ yards 60" fabric (Sizes XL, XXL) MACHINE(S) • Thread to match fabric • Standard sewing machine with needle appropriate to fabric choice • Serger thread, if applicable • Serger (optional) For optional elastic casing: Model • ¼ yard of ¼" elastic height: • One package of " single-fold bias tape 5'9" ½ 40 THE MAGIC PATTERN BOOK With the garment wrong side out, pin Press up a ⅝" hem, folding it and stitch close to the outer fold of the 10 in at the points as shown. Pin. binding. Machine-stitch through the finished edge Make YOUR to secure it. OWN Magic Usea contrasting fabric for the Neck and Arm Bindings. Reverse the application so that it is visible on the right side of the garment. Pin and stitch the binding to the wrong side of the bodice and fold it over to the Front. Pin and stitch close to the outer folded edge of the binding from the right side. After Step 10, baste one finished end Finish the lower edges of the Lower With right sides together, pin the of a rectangular scarf off center to the Front and Lower Back. With right completed bodice to the completed 9 11 lower Front. Place the scarf on top of sides together, pin the Lower Front to the lower tank, aligning the fronts and backs, the completed lower tank at the desired Lower Back along the sides. Stitch. side seams, and raw edges. Stitch a ⅜" location, mark the required length, and seam. cut across the scarf at the mark. Then, with the scarf right side up, pin the cut edge to the raw edge of the lower tank. Gather the top edge of the scarf if desired. Baste the scarf Press open the seam allowances. Trim the to the tank, seam allowance flush with the point. and proceed with Step 11. Finish the seam allowance and press it upward. 44 THE MAGIC PATTERN BOOK CONTRAST A1 VARIATION BINDING CAN BE SUBTLE he Alice tank top takes a decidedly flow-y turn when the bottom pieces are T replaced by a single wrapped vintage scarf. FABRIc aNd N OTIONS TOOLS NOTE: Choose a scarf made of fabric that is • Straight pins fairly substantial in weight, one that drapes • Scissors nicely and is not considerably lighter than the • Tailor’s chalk or fabric-marking pencil bodice fabric. • Clear ruler or seam gauge • For bodice: ½ yard 45" fabric (Size S), • Tape measure 7/8 yard 45" fabric (Sizes M, L), 1 yard 45" • Hand-stitching needle fabric (Sizes XL, XXL); or ½ yard 60" fabric (All sizes) • Medium safety pin (if adding elastic casing) • For contrasting Neck and Arm Bindings: ⅝ yard fabric, any width (All sizes) MACHINE(S) • For lower tank: large square, or almost • Standard sewing machine with needle square, new or vintage scarf (All sizes) appropriate to fabric choice NOTE: The circumference of the lower edge of your finished bodice needs to be • Serger (optional) approximately the same as the measurement of the upper edge of your scarf. Variations within a few inches are fine. • Thread(s) to match bodice fabric, scarf, and “ Scarfs [sic] are very contrasting binding (if desired) • Serger thread, if applicable important, both separate For optional elastic casing: and attached to garments.” • ¼ yard of ¼" elastic —The Woman’s Institute’s Fashion Service magazine, 1931 Model • One package of ½" single-fold bias tape height: 5'9" THE TANK TOP: ALICE 45 Wrap the left edge of the scarf, keeping it NOTE: If the end of the scarf is too long, Wrap the scarf around the lower edge of flat against the bodice’s lower edge, until it remove length from the left edge of the the bodice, aligning the raw edges and is approximately 3" from the left-side seam. scarf by cutting and hemming until pinning. When you reach the front again, Pin and mark the bodice at this point. the scarf is the length you desire after place the left end of the scarf over the first wrapping. Do not cut the right end of layer until the left end lines up with the the scarf. Make sure you have made all marking 3" from the left side seam. Stitch markings on the bodice and scarf and a ⅜" seam through all the layers. then remove the scarf from the bodice. Fold and stitch a narrow hem along 5 the cut raw edge, from the mark on the right end of the scarf to the front corner. Wrap the right edge of scarf over the NOTE: If desired, hand- lower edge of the bodice until it is stitch the hem using a approximately 3" from the right-side small running stitch in Finish the seam allowance and press seam. Pin and mark both the scarf and the a complementary color upward. bodice at this point. thread. With right sides together, pin the raw edge of the scarf to the bodice. Begin 6 by placing the right end of scarf (where it begins to drape) on the marking that is 3" STYLE SECRET from the right side seam. Pin. Don’t shy away from using bold prints and oversize patterns on the tank top. Tops are the best place to add drama and color and can be balanced with solid pants, jeans, or leggings. The remaining scarf length will drape down in front. THE TANK TOP: ALICE 47 Meet the Family PATTERN A1 THE ALICE Page 40 PATTERN A3 PATTERN A2 THE ADELAIDE THE AVERY Page 55 Page 49 PATTERN A4 THE ALMA PATTERN A6 Page 61 PATTERN A5 THE ANNE THE ABIGAIL Page 73 Page 67 MAKINg BIAs TAPE, MAGICALLY ias tape is used to cover raw edges of cut fabric. Because it’s cut on the diagonal, it’s 4 Pressopen the seam allowance, Bflexible and easy to maneuver around curved areas such as armholes or necklines. pressing the binding flat. Packaged bias tape is available in standard widths in solid colors of a cotton/polyester blend. But by creating your own, you can add just the right accent to garments, handbags, or home decorator projects. If you have a favorite remnant of fabric that you can’t bear to part with, give it new life as bias tape. Scraps are great. 5 Foldthe binding in half lengthwise, If you do not have a bias tape maker, follow these simple directions to make a strip of with wrong sides together, and press. bias tape: 1 Ifyour pattern doesn’t tell you exactly 2 Cutthe ends of the bias fabric strips how much bias tape you’ll need, use on the diagonal and overlap them, your flexible tape measure to get a right sides together, at a 45-degree rough idea of the necessary length. angle. Pin the ends as shown. Piece together fabric strips as shown Open, and fold the outer long edges in to attain the desired length, and to meet the center crease and press remember to figure in seam allowances. again. For double-fold bias tape, cut your bias fabric strips four times as wide as the desired finished tape: 3Stitch in a 1/4 " seam. Width of bias Width of finished Fold in half once again along the fabric strips bias tape center crease and press. 1" 1/4" 11/2" 3/8" 2" 1/2" 3" 3/4" 4" 1" SEWING BASICS 27 Sizing RefeRence CHART BUST (Fullest Part) ................ ____________ WAIST ............................ ____________ HIP (Fullest Part) .................. ____________ WIDTH OF CHEST ................ ____________ FRONT WAIST LENGTH Shoulder to Waist ................. ____________ FRONT SKIRT LENGTH Shoulder to Floor. ____________ NECK (At Base) ................... ____________ SHOULDER Neck to Armhole Line ............. ____________ ARMHOLE ........................ ____________ WIDTH OF BACK ................. ____________ BACK LENGTH Neck to Waist ..................... ____________ BACK LENGTH Neck to Floor ..................... ____________ OUTSIDE ARM Shoulder to Wrist (Arm Bent) ...... ____________ INSIDE ARM Shoulder to Wrist (Arm Straight) ... ____________ UPPER ARM (Fullest Part) ......... ____________ ELBOW (Arm Bent) ............... ____________ WRIST ............................ ____________ HAND (Closed) ................... ____________ FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE, KEEP A RECORD OF THESE OTHER SIZES LISTED BELOW PATTERN SIZE: Dress ______________ Shirt _______________ Skirt _____________ Coat _____________ SEWING BASICS 21 easily through fine, thin fabrics without Tools You breaking the weave. A ballpoint needle (featuring a blunter tip) is best when Will Need sewing knits, because it will pass through The following is a list of tools I find the knit without snagging or piercing the essential for efficient sewing .