NEWSJOURNAL December 2019 www.sudburysociety.org [email protected]. charity no 265228

PROTECTING OUR HERITAGE—WE NEED TO DO MORE! Since the last edition of the Notre Dame will struggle to leads to failure, although too emerging among its caretakers News Journal we have seen replace many features of the frequently that is not recog- to work harder to protect the the loss of Notre Dame Ca- original and, as such, this nised by those making the asset for which they are ulti- thedral in Paris. tragedy was, in hindsight, flawed decisions at the time. mately responsible. inexcusably careless. It seems to me that this tragic Why is this relevant to Sud- John French loss of a historic building is This is not about attributing bury? We entrust the protec- symptomatic of the age that blame, although that is a com- tion of our heritage and we live in. Is this the case or mon reaction; it is about buildings to governance bod- Inside this issue: does it simply join the long learning from errors of such ies that have statutory pow- list of tragic fires destroying magnitude if our present gen- ers. In some instances, past An Edwardian childhood 2 an irreplaceable heritage? eration to be trusted again generations have gifted prop- in Sudbury Simply the unlucky hand of with such a magnificent leg- erties such as Belle Vue probability, or is there some- acy. House that now rest in the thing more significant going care of a local Council,. Town It will be evident to the Zero-Carbon Transport 3 on here? Having taken many councillors, having previously in Sudbury? hundreds of years to build reader that it is not entirely sought to demolish the 19th and many millions of hours of clear where responsibility century building to make way ultimately rests. I have seen My Family and other 4 toiling labour and skilled for a hotel under proposals Cameras craftsmanship it was lost in many examples where fires by Council,, destroy buildings when con- just a matter of hours. will now be consulting in the Sudbury’s Unlisted List 5 tractors are on site, and usu- New Year on a range of new This was a disaster on many ally the insurance is deemed levels. The fire itself released adequate protection. Two options. hundreds of tonnes of carbon arguments prevail i) you don’t The Council has a responsi- Taste of Sudbury Food 6 dioxide, when globally we are need to worry it’s insured, or bility to ensure a plan for the and Drink Festival trying to reduce emissions; ii) you mustn’t interfere with building that preserves its large quantities of heavy met- the contractors responsibili- heritage value and the amen- Access Study 7 als were oxidised polluting ties or you will share liability. ity value of the park. Other- the atmosphere in a vast Both of these arguments wise itt would be a failure of Is Sudbury a Sustainable 8 plume of gases; and the larg- need to be challenged if we governance and of the com- Town? est spans of oak that were in are to protect or built envi- mitment made to past donors the roof were lost. Aside ronment heritage, as they and, in hindsight, the loss of Fiction in Sudbury 10 from the heritage loss the deflect responsibility from this asset will be seen as a environmental damage was those who hold it. Insurance, tragic and poor reflection of significant and avoidable. is not a reason to apply poor the times. We must avoid Shop girls and sex work- 12 ers Is the oak replaceable? It is oversight, to not ask the right Belle Vue which means debateable whether any sus- questions and to not govern ‘beautiful view’ becoming our effectively, especially to avoid very own Notre Dame. Brit- By Royal Appointment 14 tainable oak forests still exist ain, despite its travails, is a mod- that can provide that length the responsibility of mistakes made by others in our name. ern prosperous country with the of roof timbers, such has means to deliver a solution to Visit to Ely Cathedral and 15 been the depletion of oak And, it is always right to chal- lenge decisions of those who Belle Vue without resorting the Fitzwilliam over many generations. to demolition, and it is posi- Those seeking to reinstate govern and make decisions in our name. Poor oversight tive to see the political will Architecture Award 16 Page 2

AN EDWARDIAN CHILDHOOD IN SUDBURY

“Life was much slower and the only traffic we met when we went out black- berrying or gleaning for Harvest or primrosing in the lanes and woods, com- prised bicycles or carts. Cars had only just ‘reached Sudbury ‘ and when an aeroplane passed overhead, everyone stopped and gazed in awe.

Sudbury was a lovely little place in which to be brought up. The country was all around us... and I am sure we had longer, sunnier and warmer summers. We used to set out for the Bathing Place, part of the river, about 10 a.m. armed with sandwiches (Mum poverty was indescribable. ONLY’ or ‘WOMEN ARE Above: The Old Bathing Place, made us delicious tomato NOW BATHNG’!!!! The Croft, Sudbury c1900. sandwiches) and cake and After swimming, first in the Below: The Bathing Place then an apple and a penny for a shallow end, then came the Then having sat in the sun and now. box at the Bathing Place all great day when Mr Fenton and eaten a biscuit (must to ourselves, whereas the said, ‘Now Miss Hawkey, or have something after and ‘Council School kiddies’ Miss Whorlow, you are not any account before a shared a communal box, ready to go across the river’ swim!!) we went out onto about 20 of them. Oh there and, while we swam, he the meadows. We played was terrible snobbishness in came along with us in his and talked and we sat with those days, though going to boat and then pronounced our legs in a stream and From the memories of Joy Sunday School I mixed hap- us fit to swim outside the we ate our lunch and it Whorlow 1901-1982 pily with children where bar and, ultimately, allowed never entered our heads in (The Whorlows lived in Kent- us to swim outside in the those days that some harm ish Lodge in Stour Street and “Oh it seemed all river if we wished. I don’t could come to us. Oh it owned a local removal busi- know what happened if a seemed all sunshine and ness) male came along the river- sunshine and peace peace and laughter.” David Burnett path, for always outside in and laughter” large letters were, ‘MEN Page 3

TOWARDS ZERO CARBON TRANSPORT IN SUDBURY?

The nature of transportation cles are supposed to stay on going on apace at Imperial BDC who are now holed up in the UK is changing. About the road and not go on the College and Cambridge in their Ipswich castle where 10 years ago the government pavement. Where one is University Engineering De- they will have even greater ruled that, to reduce the pro- faced with a short length of partment. The improve- problems to confront. gressive increase in global one way street, using the ments will allow faster The easy solution is to adopt a temperature, carbon emis- pavement to bypass it and charging and energy yielding 20 mph zone throughout the sions would the reduced by avoid a perilous intersection more power for less town but this probably needs 80% from 1990 levels by it seems a reasonable route, weight, driving improve- another 10 or 20 years to get 2050. More recently Mrs and if one goes at close to ments in the range of elec- there. May, driven by the impact of walking pace and says “excuse tric vehicles. Since 1950 Sudbury has air pollution in cities, an- me and thank you” to get The map of recharging moved steadily to being a car nounced that emissions past pedestrians no one points indicates that there accessed town. It has a con- should be reduced to net seems to mind. are two sites in Sudbury siderable amount of car park- zero; a level that is probably readily avail- ing space and has had a policy unachievable. Regardless of able for the of free parking. Whether this that it is certain that large public. Al- has saved the shopping provi- reductions will be made and ternatively, sions in the town is question- this will apply to all forms of recharging a able but it has ensured a lot of transportation. The new plug-in hy- traffic at peak times. The power source is most likely brid can be population continues to grow to be electrical energy, done at and judging by the number of chemically stored in batteries home via a cars parking on double yellows carried in the vehicles. The 1 3 a m p and quiet residential roads change to all electric vehicles socket and near the centre parking is is currently delayed in the UK takes about 4 nearing its capacity limit. by the need to develop a net- Other modes are also gaining hours. This is very simple The roads in and around Sud- work of charging sites along popularity in cities namely to arrange if one has off bury are mostly narrow with major routes, but electric folding scooters. These are street parking adjacent to similarly restricted pavements. hybrid vehicles are spreading carried discretely on the tube the house, but difficult with- They were probably widened at a steady pace. In Norway and brought into action when out a dedicated place as in the 1950s and 60s but since 45% of new vehicles are all back on the surface. They with many of the old prop- then cars have got wider and electric. are seen as an extension of erties in Sudbury. at sometime in the 70s EU Cycling gives us the most walking and are mostly used Politicians and engineers regulations forced us to accept reductions in emissions but is on the pavement. The latest also have their aims set at wider and heavier trucks. The not used much here because version is electric scooters having all-electric busses, impact of this is reflected in of the nature of the roads and also speed regulated to cabs and trucks to meet the the very low usage of bicycles the wide availability of park- 30km/h. These are not al- in the town even though that ing. However, as more and lowed to be used on the road “as a hybrid EV mode of transport would be more people park on the nor on the pavement. How- ideal for a town of this size. double yellows a change will ever, they are increasingly user I can say that The heavy traffic on many of have to be made to the latter, used and recently a user was they are great to drive our roads especially Girling but will they take to their killed by a lorry colliding into and also encourage street, the Belle View round- bicycles? Electric bikes are her. abouts, and down King street, improving all the time; the The ageing population will more polite behaviour is very scary to cyclists. models available now can give probably lead to an increase from the driver” As a Civic Society one thing you a range of 50 miles with a the number of mobility scoot- we can’t advocate is widening regulated top speed of 15.5 ers on Sudbury’s pavements , low carbon emission tar- the streets to accommodate mph. Unpowered cycles can together with the need for- gets. The impact of these these various users. An in- go as fast as they can. I have storage spaces with an elec- developments will not re- crease in bikes and other seen a shopper at Waitrose tric power supply for re- duce the need for roads; in smaller personal vehicles will using an electric bike and charging. fact with a wider range of slow down traffic. Vehicles are whizzing away up Ballingdon Electric cars are here to stay vehicles using them they not going to get smaller or hill on his way home. and as a hybrid EV user I can will need to be wider, very slower so the only thing we One is constantly reminded say that they are great to difficult to achieve in the can strive for is a blanket of the dangers of cycling in drive and also encourage older parts of the town that speed limit within the area of towns by reports of users more polite behaviour from we really wish to conserve. the town to improve safety. being killed, usually by being the driver. Research and This will be a real challenge squashed under lorries. Cy- development on batteries is to the planners in SCC and Ian Liddell

Page 4

MY FAMILY AND OTHER CAMERAS

John French gave a talk about sixties who produced amaz- discovered and photo- his collection of vintage and ing stripy landscapes using graphed Machu Pichu in Peru classic cameras that all came extreme contrast in his in 1911. from the era of film photogra- processing techniques. Many of the cameras were phy. His talk covered how he Robert Capa took his D day displayed with their original grew up with photography landing photographs using receipts and manuals and this and was taught to use a dark- the first Exacta rangefinder has since sent SudSoc mem- room by his father Stanley of which John displayed a bers scurrying off to unearth French, who was an avid 1934 example from his fa- cameras and receipts from steam train photographer and ther’s collection. Cartier boxes in their attics. whose photographs he also Bresson used a Leica with an Architectural perspective displayed. John has continued M2 on display. A 1910 Ko- was a theme John explored the tradition of both using dak 10x8 Plate Camera made and demonstrated through and collecting film cameras in New York had originally the use of rise and fall fronts and also taking photographers been the factory Camera at and shift lenses such as the to this day in the medium of Jaguar Cars. A 1968 Schneider PA-Curtagon lens. black and white Rolleiflex F2.8 was the fa- John rounded off the talk on John displayed a wide selec- vourite of David Bailey was the subject of Hasselblads of tion of cameras and made, in displayed along with an origi- which two Swedish built each case, a fascinating con- nal mint Olympus OM1. ones were on display, an nection between each cam- A couple of the rarer high- original 500C and a 201F. era’s characteristics and its lights included a Arca Swiss As a finale John displayed age and provenance, linking Reflex which was the original black and white negatives this to famous photographers camera used by the Vienese and prints with a set of 13 through the years who had photographer Leo Jahn- large mounted panoramic used these same models Dietrichstein who favoured prints of Sudbury from a The relationship between the the 6x9cm format in the late recent photoshoot using a camera, lens and the eye of 1950’s and the Canon 7 with 2004 Hasselbald Xpan . the photographer was a the amazing F0.95 portrait These included some views theme in which John demon- lens originally purchased of Sudbury with a particular strated the unique hallmark of from Paris Orly airport in approach to architectural many famous photographers 1964 (receipt intact!). Two photography, using both and how that signature to of the most unusual of the horizontal and vertical pano- their work can be connected cameras on display were the ramas for perspective con- to the qualities of the equip- ex RAF, Komlossy Dunstable trol, and some lesser known ment they chose to use. 70mm aerial photography viewpoints of the town in- For example, on display was a camera which is a rare ex- cluding some fascinating de- very rare Kobell Press Cam- ample of a British made cam- tail of the buildings photo- era of which only 200 were era; and the compact swing graphed. made which was the camera lens Kodak Panoram of of choice by the famous Ital- 1910. The latter was identi- John French ian photographer Antonio cal to the one used by Giacomelli in the fifties and Higham Bingham when he

A 1968 Rolleiflex F2.8 was the favourite of David Bailey was displayed along with an original mint Olympus OM1. Page 5

SUDBURY’S UNLISTED LIST

If you haven’t looked at the races especially were meant Sudbury Society website re- to be viewed as a whole and cently, you should. (https:// can be ruined when one sudburysociety.org.uk/ house sticks out like a sore unlisted-buildings/) In particu- thumb such as if the brick- lar, have a look at the tab work is over-cleaned or heading ‘Sudbury Local List’. painted in a different colour. The main tab lists the build- The message is: if you live in properties nearby. all of them were awful by any ings street with a drop-down an older house do keep an And it isn’t limited to build- means! There are several menu with three sections: eye on neighbouring proper- modern buildings which make ings. Also included are struc- Advice to Owners, Property ties, make your changes sen- tures such as milestones, a positive contribution to the Owners’ Discussion Forum sitively, don’t kill your walls, postboxes, mosaics, townscape as well as some and The Book. house’s character - isn’t that sensitively handled summerhouses, and even a The introduction to the List what you liked about it when World War II gun emplace- ‘conversion jobs.’ you bought it? provides a valuable explana- ment, – and don’t forget the Properties shown extend well tion of the difference be- It was these unlisted buildings cemetery opened in 1859 into the suburbs encouraging tween Local Listed buildings that formed the content of with its twin chapels and glo- us to look closely at what at and those statutory Listed the beautiful book, Sudbury: rious trees: more like a park first might seem fairly typical Buildings whose architecture Unlisted Heritage, originally than a cemetery. Victorian/Edwardian terraces. or historical significance is of published in 2002 (reprinted Look again at the details such Just skimming over the Gal- national importance that we 2010) and compiled by for- as plaques high on the walls lery of over 300 photos (all know as Grade I, Grade II mer chairman of the Sudbury taken in glorious sunshine!) is of the most modest houses and Grade II*. The Local List Society, David Burnett. often give a name and date a delight. What a lovely town records buildings which are Since then, David has been we live in—David’s work will such as a pair of semis, Grey- of local architectural/ updating this list and the re- alert people to this fact so friars 1907, on Priory Road historical significance. Al- off Melford Road; the 1930s sults of his efforts are online that they aim to keep Sud- though being on this list does on the Sudbury Society web- bury as attractive as possible. council houses of 44-45 not totally protect a building site which has the advantage It is the old buildings, many of Queens Road and Garden from demolition, it draws Side on Acton Square. And of being more flexible than a them unlisted, that make up attention to the importance book and changes can be the character of the town. look out for the little flower of the building locally. Ba- motif that appears over hun- included promptly. He has From them you can read its bergh District Council has dreds of windows and doors. put in a tremendous amount history from medieval timber accepted this new list which of work but it has been so buildings, through the turbu- This has been a labour of love supersedes the original 2004 worthwhile. Searching is via lent 17th century, to the ele- for David and I for one am Local List. street name in the Index of gant 18th century Georgians very grateful to him for alert- This Local List also useful in Street Names or by scrolling and Regency (often just a ing me to Sudbury’s rich ar- pointing out significant archi- down to the Gallery of small ‘front’ to a much older build- chitectural heritage and in- tectural features which would photos of unlisted buildings in ing) Then the Victorians and spiring me to take a real in- be spoiled with unsympa- Sudbury and simply clicking Edwardians, glowing with terest in its buildings. thetic changes such as uPVC on the photo. This will civic pride and a love of deco- Every civic society’s website windows and doors, solar enlarge it, show a location ration, and into the 20th cen- should have something like panels, changes of window map, give a brief description tury with new building mate- this! Anne Grimshaw shape, paint colour, etc. Ter- of it and find other unlisted rials and new ideas – and not Page 6

TASTE OF SUDBURY FOOD AND DRINK FESTIVAL 2019

This year saw the 7th anniver- made in , locally sary of this annual event on grown fruit and veg, 9th June in the centre of town wines and biltong, honey from and the feedback from public, local hives not to mention a stallholders, supporters and series of cooking master- sponsors suggests it has been classes from chefs based in the best yet. Semer, Cavendish, Bury St Over 30 stalls including con- Edmunds, Pebmarsh and Sud- verted horseboxes and a VW, bury to name a few! a vintage ambulance and piag- With the event management gio Tuk Tuk filled Market Hill gradually transferred from the which was closed to traffic for Council’s Town Team to Suf- the day, with another 25 pro- folk Market Events since ducers inside St Peters. This 2017, the focus is now on year for the first time, an ex- sourcing top quality, locally tended festival area was cre- grown food and drink and top ated in front of the Town Hall local chefs to showcase the that reached over to Old wonderful producers, restau- Market Place with street food rants and local businesses that and picnic benches, a giant come from our region. The tractor from Ernest Doe, event is set up to be run as a farm animals area from Hol- Community Interest Com- low Trees and a pop-up bar pany so that any income and from Nethergate. sponsorship is ploughed back Visitors were able to enjoy into delivering the event and local Red Poll beef, wild boar building funds for future years. sausage rolls from Haverhill, We are already looking ahead award winning icecreams to 2020 and planning for an

Pictures by Emma Cabielles Photography

even better event but raising bringing people and money sufficient funding to keep it a into the immediate town cen- FREE event for everyone to tre. attend is always a challenge. Here’s to an even better festi- We’ve had great local support val in 2020 and if you would from firms such as Drage & like to know more about the Tozer, Ernest Doe and Hol- event or learn how you can low Trees Farm but as the help to support it through event grows, so do the costs. volunteering on the day or We use local businesses and becoming a sponsor please call suppliers wherever possible, us–07905957608 or via an- for example Go Start provide [email protected] the free Park n Ride service, k and investing in the event equals investing in many small Angie Kearney rural businesses, as well as Page 7

ACCESS STUDY

Featuring the couple on the faces should merge but they pubs. Ease of entry (door never happened. However cover of our Access Report rarely do making coping with openers) and space to move there is now a connection, in 2005 struggling with the even small steps difficult and about inside. Colchester's Northern Con- step up from the market pro- dangerous for both wheel- Parking. Good provision and nection which Sudbury's traf- duced a quick response with chair user and helper and protected. Paving details to fic can now make use of. the replacement of the step people generally.. suit both disabled drivers and Non local traffic from the in front of Gainsborough's Road junctions such as - Mar- passengers. south will in time learn to statue by a ramp which every- ket Hill down to junction Please let me have your ex- stay on the A12 and A120 one takes for granted and with Station Road, Gainsbor- periences and comments, but how to persuade non benefits from. Nearby the ough Street and the turning favourable and otherwise, local traffic to stay on the paving leading up the en- into Gregory Street, Cross with suggestions. A14 and A12 rather than trance to St Peter's has re- Street and Church Street, come down the A134 and cently been gently ramped, Great Eastern Road and Sta- Western Bypass through our town? eliminating the need for the tion Road, Belle Vue. Clear This seems no longer eco- The town council can only awkward portable ramp. Both and identifiable routes, safe nomically viable so there is a advise but there are signs the demonstrating that good ac- crossing points. need for alternatives to the Suffolk County Council and cess benefits everyone. Toilets. Public and within traffic dominated status quo. our MP are becoming fa- But elsewhere much still re- buildings open to the public. Steve Hall, a town councillor, vourably disposed towards mains to be down to make Guidance as to layout and has persuaded the Town this solution. It needs to be our town centre properly fittings is clear but rarely fol- Council to adopt the solution resolved soon as it will have a accessible. But to produce an lowed completely. A Chang- of making the A134 Sudbury's bearing on the Chilton up to date report we do need ing Toilet, designed for se- main road connection to the Woods and other develop- the experience, good and bad, verely disabled adults with A12. This road has been up- ments. of disabled and elderly peo- need for a hoist and changing graded in the past, particu- Supermarket traffic needs to ple. table should be provided. larly with the bypass be dissuaded from leaving the Seating. As with toilets provi- and bridge over the Stour, town via Ballingdon - the abil- As a guide the following ele- sion or lack of it restricts the and it could be further im- ity to leave via the A134 ments need to be considered: extent to which disabled and proved at Great Horkesley, could be achieved by making Pavements and crossings : their older people can use the Newton Green and within it possible to turn up the width, camber (slope towards town centre. North Street is Sudbury. This road was in- A134 at Belle Vue. the kerb), dropped kerbs (the particularly lacking. tended to have a direct con- official guidance is that sur- Public Buildings, shops, cafes, nection to the A12 but it Stephen Thorpe

Sudbury Meadows

What wondrous pastures these and, oh, what gifts to stressed-our folk, hot dogs and swooping swifts! Aloft one marvels at evolving skies which hour by hour refresh our jaded eyes and seem to woo the land with light sublime, freeing us all from the dictates of time; liberating our senses as we walk, feeding our souls beyond the reach of talk. O’er all remember that the earth so pure enables priceless Nature to endure.

A thousand years these Commons have us served, and may they ever onwards be preserved, just as the Stour binds meadowlands to Town in ancient union, and with just reknown. So, stalwart Freemen, in traditions’ mould, guard our inheritance as if ‘twere gold!

Andrew Phillips Page 8

IS SUDBURY A SUSTAINABLE TOWN?

February’s meeting was an enlightening debate on envi- ronmental sustainability and sustainable architecture and its relevance for Sudbury. John French opened the dis- cussion by introducing what is meant by ‘sustainability’, defined as "development that meets the needs of the pre- sent without compromising the ability of future genera- tions to meet their own needs." The scope is very broad, and the UN has 17 sustainable development goals (below) covering key areas such as climate action, waste and water and also equality, poverty and educa- tion. There is scientific consensus that we are facing a climate crisis and the Inter govern- mental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) has warned Modifications to buildings such as increasing insulation and installing renewable energy gen- we have 12 years to arrest eration through solar or ground sourced heat reduces carbon emissions from existing build- the damage so as to avoid ings. Passivhaus construction ensures low energy principles fare ‘designed in’ from the begin- irreversible climate catastro- ning. phe caused by an increase in global temperature. The re- to this concern. cent and ongoing protests in One significant change we London and elsewhere attest can make as a society and in our daily lives is to reduce greenhouse gas/ carbon emissions from burning fos- sils fuel. Carbon that has been stored in the earth as coal, gas or oil has been burned since the industrial revolution, releasing carbon dioxide into the atmosphere, trapping solar radiation. The future of architecture and development has to be in buildings that minimise energy use in their operation and construction and which store carbon in their struc- ture. The Enterprise Centre at UEA, Norwich is an ex- emplar building constructed to Passivhaus standard of energy efficiency, which makes use of natural and local materials in its con- struction. The frame is made from local timber and the exterior is clad in thatch. Page 9

The cladding is constructed James Todd from Architype, from interlocking (fire- leading architects in sustain- retardant) thatch ‘cassettes’ able construction, talked that were constructed off-site through a range of innovative using traditional materials and projects including schools, craftsmanship. field centres and housing de- velopments; all making opti- mum use of wood, natural light and passive heating, cre- ating bright, comfortable The exterior of the Enterprise spaces. Centre, University of East An- The use of wood for frame, floors, roof etc. means it is possible to store more car- bon in the structure than is used meaning these buildings can act as carbon ‘sinks’. The Goldsmith Street development– which would not look out of place in Sudbury Saul Humphrey, Chairman of Building Growth (the Con- struction / Property Sector of recently won the prestigious New Anglia LEP) talked about RIBA Stirling Prize and a new development priorities for garden village at Hethel is the New Anglia region, in- being designed around sus- cluding growth of Ipswich and tainability principles. Norwich, the ‘Energy Coast’, A lively debate followed and development ‘corridors’ around where and how we between Cambridge- Nor- should build in and around wich and along the A47, A14 Sudbury. There was consen- and A10. Sustainable thinking sus that Sudbury needed is part of the plan. A sustain- quality, sustainable develop- able housing scheme on Gold- ment and would welcome an smith Street in Norwich has exemplar scheme. glia, Norwich

Above—Using natural materials stores carbon and creates comfortable spaces Below—a design for a sustainable community housing development

Thatchers at work construct- ing the cladding panels in their workshop Page 10

FICTION IN SUDBURY—A LITERARY TOUR

Two authors and an actor Simon Edge then gave us gave members a fascinating some lesser-known facts on evening on Thursday 24 Octo- Dodie Smith: a ‘failed’ ac- ber. tress, she had worked in the Simon Edge is the Sudbury Art Department of Heal and author of ‘A Right Royal Face- Sons Furniture Store in Lon- Off’, a modern satire based on don and had had an affair artists Gainsborough and Rey- with the owner. She first had nolds. He began by reminding enormous success as a play- us of Daniel Defoe’s journey wright with, in particular, ‘through the East’ and his ‘Autumn Crocus’ (1931) rather disparaging comment which prompted the newspa- on Sudbury: ‘I know nothing per headline, ‘Shopgirl Writes for what this town is remark- Play’ and another famous play able’. A later journey, how- ‘Dear Octopus’(1938). ever, when he approached the Simon reminded us of Liz Trenow town from Nayland, was Dodie’s story ‘101 Dalma- slightly more optimistic: ‘The tians’ when the travelling Gash, the creator of the town is pretty well built but dogs ‘come to the market ‘LoveJoy’ novels which be- the streets are dirty’. Simon Edge town of Sudbury’ and came a popular TV series, Charles Dickens would ‘crossed the bridge over the filmed in and around Sudbury probably have agreed. Coming Robert Jennens, died at Acton River Stour’, and he re- and : Lovejoy to Sudbury as a young journal- in 1798 leaving £2,000,000 and marked on her neat descrip- was apparently appreciative ist, he stayed at the Swan Ho- no clear instructions as to tions: ‘The caravans barked, of his surroundings: ‘Those tel, now the NatWest Bank - inheritance, it provided Dick- but the dogs moved on.’ two nights at the Mill Hotel… surely a good case for a Blue ens with the plot of his later When living comfortably near were the happiest of my life.’ Plaque. His many satirical novel ‘Bleak House’. Finchingfield, Dodie owned a Liz Trenow, born and bred observations of London life The novel ‘The Pickwick Pa- RollsRoyce but later sold it in Sudbury, is a member of had already appeared in his pers’, which was first pub- because ‘it wasn’t suitable for the Walters family which has fictional ‘Sketches by Boz’ and lished as a magazine serial (24 Sudbury’. been weaving silk in Sudbury it would seem that he contin- pages a month over a 2-year A photograph on the screen for over 300 years. Her four ued to find much rich material period) does not actually could not be identified by novels are set within the silk- in Sudbury, basing many of his mention Sudbury by name, anyone: it was Jonathan weaving industry, both past characters on local people. A instead using the name well-known miser became ‘Eatanswill’ (eat-and-swill) but ‘Scrooge’ and when ‘the rich- there are plenty of clues: the est commoner in Britain’, descriptions of the market, the High Street and the fa- mously ‘fixed’ elections of the ‘rotten borough’ where elec- tion agents arranged for the locking-up of their party mem- bers , to be brought out when required to vote – apparently a common practice. In the novel, the opposition party believes it has won over a larger number of voters by providing their wives and daughters with a gift: ‘Five-and -forty women…and gave every one of ‘em a green parasol when she went away.’ Actor Bryan Thurlow brought this scene, and oth- ers, to life with several rum- bustious renderings of pas- sages from the novel, particu- Bryan Thurlow larly the ‘spirited contest’. Page 11 and present. Her first novel, reminiscences of other well- ‘The Last Telegram’ is located known Sudbury authors: UPDATE ON 48 NORTH STREET in and around Sudbury with Adrian Bell, who wrote on many easily-recognisable loca- farming practices and com- The deteriorating condition At last Babergh is taking some tions. The story is based in piled the Times crossword of this significant Grade II action in response to our the Walters weaving sheds for many years; US Service- Listed Building was covered in pressure. Their Planning En- during the Second World man Robert Arbis on war- our last Winter issue. Since forcement team intend to set War and much of her mate- time Sudbury life, ‘Here We then, water has been seen up a meeting with the rial is rooted in real-life Are Together’ and ‘The dripping down inside the owner’s agent and to carry events: her father supported Mathematics of Love’ by building during heavy rain and out a full internal and external the transport of children out Emma Darwin, a modern pieces of mortar have fallen survey. This sounds promis- of war-torn Germany (The chronicle of two lives set in off onto the pavement below. ing but the aim of their cur- Kindertransport) and eventu- Kersey. Much of the problem stems rent action is merely to de- ally employed four of them in Who knew just how much from the failure of the owner cide “what if any action we the mill as weaving appren- fiction has been written about to fully comply with the can require of the owner to tices. Reading from her novel, our town and its surround- Schedule of Works when carry out relevant repairs/ she described ‘distant looms ings? It certainly came as a Babergh approved renovation renovations to prevent fur- like the low hum of bees,’ and pleasant surprise and made work on No 48 in 2010. For ther deterioration of the when handling the ‘rustle and for a most enjoyable evening. example the many “spalled” Listed building.” They have no squeak’ of silk fabric: ‘(it) al- bricks should have been cut powers to force the owner to lowed the silk to seduce me.’ Lorna Hoey out and replaced; instead the bring No. 48 back into use by Audience participation at the gaps were just filled with this renting out the building or end of the talk brought forth pink mortar which is now selling it on to someone who crumbling away and letting w might look after it better. A NEW LIFE FOR DIAPER’S water through. Many local people remember Diaper’s shoe shop in East Street – a family busi- ness dating back to the 1920s. It special- ised in the kind of footwear you might struggle to find in more fashionable out- lets such as plimsolls, wellies and heavy workmen’s boots. When it closed the building fell into disrepair with large holes appearing in the roof, allowing pigeons to take up residence. However in the last year this mid Victo- rian building has been extensively reno- vated and given a new lease of life as a residential property. The work has been done to a very high standard – it’s quite The double doors at the side indicate a previous use as a smithy - Frederick Kemp was the difficult to see where new brickwork has blacksmith in 1908. The building fell into total disrepair after the shop closed. The roof been inserted into the former shop front almost collapsed and for years the building was shrouded in scaffolding. Now (2019) a major and the repointing has been done with rebuild has finished, creating two separate houses from the shop and the blacksmith's . great skill. Have a look at our Society website - Local List - 88-89 East Street. David Burnett

WRONG COLOUR, WRONG WIDTH The double yellow lines at the junction of Station Road and Friars Street have recently been renewed. This is part of the Sudbury Conservation Area, an environmentally sensitive area where Suffolk Highways has always put down narrow double lines (about 16cm total width) and painted in primrose yellow. These serve their purpose without having too much impact on the townscape. The new lines are much wider, about 23cm, and painted in a bright golden yellow. They are a real eyesore and highly intrusive. These new lines will eventually be put down throughout the Sudbury Conservation Area unless Suffolk Highways can be persuaded to revert to their previous practice.

David Burnett Page 12

SHOP GIRLS AND SEX WORKERS

Professor Pam Cox (pictured right) made a BBC series in 2012 on the true stories of life below stairs – which happened by accident after the first choice presenter took ill. She winged it with no preparation with no notice and got the job. It is easy to see how – as she captured the SudSoc audience with her relaxed and engaging style, delving into the less known aspects of history. Shop workers were the biggest group of female workers in the first half of this century and are still the largest workforce to- day. The commissioning of Pam’s second BBC series on the subject was triggered by the competition of Downton The vast majority of staff at The predominantly female staff of Marks and Spencer, early Abbey and Mr Selfridge on ITV! M&S in the early 1900s were 1900s Pam told the story of the tran- female and this model contin- sition from the male dominated ued into the 1950s at shops home, generally above the ping districts, with their con- ‘shopocracy’ with shop owner like Woolworths. Even today shop and controlled by the centration of young women, and apprentice (cf Arkwright the retail sectors is mostly still shop keeper. At this time shop provided the perfect cover. fuelled by low paid school leav- girls featured as objects of al- and Granville) to the huge ex- Meticulous research at the ers. lure and fantasy, inviting the pansion of retail driven by University of and cross th male gaze. working class people moving In the 19 Century it was con- checking of census records has into towns, and the demand sidered scandalous for a lower The use of ‘emotional labour’ uncovered otherwise con- for more female staff at low middle class girl to work in in selling started here, probably cealed women’s work. Re- wages (driven by the gender retail. There was a salacious reaching a pinnacle in the cords relating to the Jack the pay gap). fascination for the girls in the 1970s with the skill and artifice Ripper murders in the East End black dresses, living away from of the glamorous, attentive show that poverty and prosti- airhostesses, and sex has be- tution is a dominant story. come (today in much less sub- However, some records point tle ways) a key part of the busi- to a lucrative sex trade in plain ness of selling. By applying their sight linked to foreign trade. good looks to selling things For example, the census of (‘aesthetic labour’) these 1851 shows a man with a ‘scandalous’ shop girls were household of female ‘servants’ associated with the sex trade. travelling regularly from France. It is not a case of ‘who Was there any truth in this do you think you are?’ but implied association between more like ‘who did you say you shop girls and sex workers? were?’! Census data is riddled Glimpses of an answer can be with examples of choclatiers, found in historical records perfumeries and other high which do reveal an overlap. end shops where households The Burlington Arcade in Lon- comprised a man and a clutch don was opened by Lord of women. Madame D’Alma Cavendish in 1814 and is an was a milliner but is also linked example of where high end to a record of police raids! It shops and the high end sex was an organised and seg- trade clearly coincided – luxury mented trade, where beadles goods were being bought and provided protection with sig- sold downstairs, while upstairs nals and whistles, and where a gentlemen clients visited girl would earn three times women. Britain did not have a more than a shop worker. legalised sex trade with toler- Men ogling shop girls in James Tissot , The Shop Girl, 1885 ated red light zones, and shop- Life course histories of these Page 13

The Morning Post, Jan The development of the de- means for covering their tracks. 1859 partment store made shop Barber shops in China, kayoke work a safe haven for middle bars in Japan and ‘pop-up’ ven- class women in the city, ues in airbnb lets in Britain and article on a small network of housed in hostels for profes- the world over today provide west London streets: sional young women. The the same sort of camouflage as stores had smart toilets, lifts shops did before them, and will and electrical engineering, and continue to play a huge part in ‘149 notorious houses of ill employed sensational lift girls the history of business and the fame containing six to ten –it was all about intensifying dark economy. the shopping experience. fallen women each, which A few of the audience knew fearful array of prostitution These new department stores opened up careers for they were descended from was swelled by large numbers women, and around this time shop workers and servants, of young women lodging in the Mrs John Lewis set up the JL however no one knew or ad- district…known to be gaining women show instances of partnerships, giving shop mitted to being descended their livelihood nominally by them marrying their way out of workers a share in the busi- from a sex-worker! exploitation and economic ness. Sonia Virdee working for shops, but need and concealing their past principally by the wages of very effectively; ‘changing the Of course, brothels still exist today – as do sophisticated night prostitution’. gloves’ hid the trades.

GARDEN PARTY

With entertainment in the form of live French folk music, deli- Many thanks to all those who helped setting up, baking , cious cream teas and wine, fun competitions and excellent serving on the day and with the clearing up. Looking forward company , this summer’s garden party was a huge success. to our next social—Xmas lunch on 5th Dec!

Garden Party

Page 14

BY ROYAL APPOINTMENT

More than 80 businesses in beth the Queen Mother East Anglia are recognised for while Musk's current warrant the services they provide to is with Her Majesty the the Royal Household. Queen and dates back to Just what it takes for a busi- 2000. ness to have the right to bear "We primarily supply San- the Royal coat of arms on its dringham - when Her Maj- stationery and packaging was esty visits there over Christ- explained in a recent presen- mas, there is usually an order tation by the man responsible going through," said Musk's for overseeing the process. managing director Ed Sheen. Richard Peck, who is CEO of He says despite the addition the Royal Warrant Holders of numerous sausages types Association, gave Septem- to the company's range in ber’s talk to the Sudbury So- recent years, such as pork ciety. and leek, and gluten free, the A Royal Warrant of Appoint- Royal Household still insist ment is a mark of recognition on the classic Newmarket for a business, which has sup- Sausage, whose recipe dates plied goods or services to the back to the 1884. Households of HM The "For us the Royal Warrant is Queen, HRH The Duke of a marque of quality," added Edinburgh or HRH The Mr Sheen. Prince of Wales for at least five years before they are Unilever can help smaller "Not all our customers com- five years, and which has an reviewed to ensure desig- companies in areas such as ment on it but there are ongoing trading arrangement. nated businesses are main- looking for export markets," some who think it is fantas- Those who apply for the war- taining standards. he added. tic." rant undergo an appraisal, "It's important that there are And despite the historical which looks further into how regular reviews as it keeps nature of the Royal Warrant, Ross Bentley the business runs and the process dynamic and Mr Peck said he is constantly whether it is operating sus- keeps everyone on their impressed by the innovation tainably Royal Warrants are toes," said Mr Peck, who said and "brilliance" he finds in the not granted for professional the origins of the Royal War- companies he deals with. services, such as bankers or rant can be traced back to "People are saying with Brexit solicitors, and are aimed at medieval times, when compe- that businesses are depressed those businesses practising tition for Royal favour was but I'm finding the opposite," the trades. intense and the Monarch had he said Today there are around 800 the pick of the country's best "When I hear the world is Royal Warrant holders rep- tradespeople. doom and gloom, I just go resenting a huge cross- And this heritage can be seen and see a Royal Warrant section of trade and industry, in the make-up of the busi- holder." from individual craftspeople nesses holding Royal War- Royal Warrant "a mar- to global multi-nationals. Of rants today - 80% are small que of quality" at Musk's this number 85 companies businesses and 50% of these Sausages of Newmarket are located in the wider East are manufacturing companies. Maker of Newmarket Sau- Anglia region including eight One of the roles of the Royal sages, Musk's, has held five in Suffolk. These include Warrant Holders Association Royal Warrants granted by Newmarket sausage maker is to bring these businesses four members of the Royal Musk's, pest control specialist together to "exchange knowl- Family, dating back to the Command Pest Control at edge and collaborate" said Mr beginning of the 20th century. near Sud- Peck, who has the enviable The company's first came in bury and ForFarmers, a live- job of visiting the companies, 1907 from King George V stock feed supplier based at including the many suppliers (then the Prince of Wales) Rougham. of champagne to the Royal before Edward, Prince of But these businesses are not Household. Wales, continued the rela- allowed to rest on their lau- "We hold some great lunches tionship in 1929. rels, as Royal Warrants are and seminars where large A third warrant was awarded granted for a maximum of companies such as Jaguar and in 1965 by the Queen Eliza- Page 15

VISIT TO ELY CATHEDRAL AND FITZWILLIAM MUSEUM FOUNDERS’ LIBRARY

SubSoc members were in an unpromising swamp full in 673, the site of what is treated to a guided tour of of eels. Her second marriage now Ely Cathedral. Ethel- Ely Cathedral, including the to Egfrith the 15 year old king dreda died c.680 from a fascinating story of the first of Northumbria was a political tumour on the neck. establishment of Ely. convenience. He agreed that 17 years after her death her Ely was founded as a seat of she should remain a virgin, but body was exhumed and worship by Etheldreda, 12 years later he wished their found to be incorrupt: the queen, foundress and abbess marital relationship to be nor- tumour on her neck was of Ely. At an early age she mal. Etheldreda refused in healed and linen cloths in was married to Tondberht, spite of Egfrith’s bribes and which her body was but she remained a virgin left him to become a nun wrapped were as fresh as and on her husband’s death founding what would become the day she had been buried. she retired to the Isle of Ely, a flourishing monastery at Ely Her body was placed in a stone sarcophagus and re- buried. Afterwards and for centuries, Etheldreda's shrine was the focus for vast numbers of medieval pil- grims before it was de- stroyed in 1541. Work on the present Cathedral began in the 11th century, made possible by Ethelreda’s leg- acy. Left: It was a great privilege to have Dr Suzanne Reynolds show us the amazing illumi- nated books, original musical manuscripts and letters in the Founder’s Room at the Fitz- william Museum in Cam- bridge. Graeme Pullman

In addition to the spectacular windows in the cathedral, there was a fascinating range of glass art in the Stained Glass Mu- seum (above).

Fabulous photo collage of im- ages from the Cathedral and the Stained Glass Museum (right). Produced by Catherine Becker Committee EVENTS

Chair John French The Sudbury Society has a varied and inter- 28th May Amazing Bees: it’s not just 07775 991256 esting programme over the next few about the Honey Kevin Thorn, Stour Vice-Chair Sam Thornton months: Valley Aparies 375646 28th Nov. Environmental Stewardship 18th June Healthcare in Suffolk: the President Andrew Phillips and Organic Farming John Pawsey, Di- Challenges and the Future Dr Steven Vice-President David Burnett rector Park Farms Dunn CBE, CEO West Suffolk NHS Founda- Treasurer Ian Liddell 372400 5th Dec. Christmas Lunch 12.30 pm tion Trust Press & Comms Angie Kearney Festive fare provided by the Bridge Project, 26th July Garden Party Our annual sum- 07905 957608 booking essential mer party, kindly hosted by Sandie and An- Membership Secretary Liz Ful- 23rd Jan. Regeneration and Conserva- drew Tate, River House, Ballingdon St cher 269935 tion of St Peter’s Church Alli Burke, Events Sandie Tate 468579 Churches Conservation Trust Future Events 2020-2021: Catering Pat and Roy Laithwaite 27th Feb. Sudbury’s Wildlife in Trou- Remembrance film showing of Stanley’s War 377697 ble: what can we do about it? Ross 1939, the Year I was Born — A memoire Finance Amanda Reavell 370935 Kearney, environmental writer and Trustee from Society President, Lord Andrew Phil- News Journal Sonia Virdee of Sudbury Common Lands Trust lips 372979 26th Mar. Cheese and Wine Evening The development of Gainsborough House Member Andrew Tate and AGM A celebration of Suffolk cheeses For more information about the Sudbury 23rd Apr. Sustainable Travel and Society programme do contact Sandy Tate the Electric Car Revolution Linda at [email protected]. Graves, EV Driver

Two more B&W photographs of Sudbury’s interesting features, by John French

ARCHITECTURE AWARD

The Sudbury Society is re-introducing the Alan Phillips award for outstanding contributions to the built environment in Sudbury and its surrounding area. Ap- plications can be made from Architects, Building Designers, Contractors and Builders, Home Owners or those involved in the heritage and conservation of Sudbury buildings and the Sudbury environment. The judges will be looking for outstanding contributions to the built environment and these may include and cover any of the following areas: Buildings that have been conserved, restored or re-instated to a high stan- dard Examples of innovation and creativity in addressing the conservation of older buildings Examples of the use of traditional skills in building craft and heritage New buildings that sit easily within the context of Sudbury’s heritage Examples of building that have addressed the challenge of ‘older buildings and climate change’ We are inviting proposals in the form of a written submission of no more than 2000 words and five photographs plus a plan submitted as a single PDF file to The Sudbury Society. All entries to be sent to [email protected] on or before 20th December 2019.