144 Tapas Octubre 2016 the Champagne Ace in Just One Decade, His Metallic Bottles of Champagne Have Become the Most Sought After in the Region

144 TAPAS Octubre 2016 THE CHAMPAGNE ACE In just one decade, his metallic bottles of champagne have become the most sought after in the region. What is Armand de Brignac’s secret? TEXT TONI GARCÍA 145 TAPAS Octubre 2016 146 TAPAS Octubre 2016 or any champagne lover, hearing the last name Cattier is a guarantee of something legendary. The maison Cattier is thought of as one of the best champagne brands in a universe filled with fierce competition. The brand has Flearned how to reinvent itself and survive the crisis which for several years, seemed to threaten every sector of the global economy. The merit, as usual, is credited to more than one person. But in this case there are two people especially worth mentioning: Jean-Jacques Cattier and his son Alexandre. Jean-Jacques, the winery’s leader and patriarch, has learned how to maintain the brand’s quality standards, even if that means having to give up certain benefits. On the other hand, Jean-Jacques’ son Alexandre was responsible for a master move that many others after him have tried to replicate to no avail. “It was around the year 2000 when Alexandre said to me: ‘Dad, we should try to set ourselves apart from the competition by making an extraordinary top-quality brand,” says Jean-Jacques. “Years before that, around the 1940’s or 1950’s, I had already thought about having another brand devoted solely to special occasions, but for several reasons we vetoed the idea and left it in hibernating mode. That being said, we did have a name for it: De Brignac,” he adds. At 72, with a memory that would make any elephant jealous, Jean-Jacques is the type of man whose will to live (and drink) is contagious. Always in a good mood and with a gift for words, Jean-Jacques, Cattier’s capo, listened to his son and brought Armand de Brignac to life. “Some people think De Brignac is a relative of mine or something,” he says, laughing. “But what happened was that at the same time I began thinking of a new brand, my mother was reading a book whose main character was named De Brignac. I liked the name, it was “Some people think De Brignac is a relative of mine, but it was actually the main character of a book my mother was reading,” says Jean-Jacques quite distinguished and had a ring to it, it was perfect. Regarding Armand… well, it’s a nice name, isn’t it?” says Jean-Jacques, with a smile so big it reaches his glasses. He continues, “The truth is that Champagne’s regulatory commission forced us to use the name De Brignac so it wouldn’t be mistaken with the wines from the region of Brignac. I thought it was a very reasonable request.” Armand de Brignac champagne has become one of the most coveted in the world, not only for its price—which is even higher than expected of a “premium” product—but also for its striking introduction into a market that has been dominated by big brands for so long; De Brignac’s ability to reinvent itself through its design has also employees, all of whom are addressed by their first names. contributed to its success. “To make Armand de Brignac The best part comes when we visit the area devoted to we use only the best from our vines; we carefully select Armand de Brignac, decorated with backlit elegant wood the grapes and only expect excellence from it. I was taught shelves, giving guests the sensation of having discovered to work this way since day one and I’ve never forgotten buried treasure. this lesson,” says Emilien Boutillat, an incredibly young One obviously can’t help but ask if all this commotion sommelier and vintner in charge of supervising the result caused by the brand’s purchase is credited to the buyer’s of the product. identity: rapper Jay-Z. His name was a hot topic during our visit and it’s quite easy to verify that, in the case of HE’S GOT “FLOW” the Brooklyn artist and businessman, the purchase of Just a few weeks ago, and almost forced by the media Armand de Brignac was a clear example of his business commotion caused by the purchase of the brand, the skills. However, the company’s creative management still Cattier family decided to do something extraordinary: remains in the hands of the Cattier family. Jay-Z, whose they opened their highly acclaimed wineries for the first real name is Shawn Carter, stops by whenever he wants to time in history to a small group of journalists from around see how things are going, but he doesn’t provide input— the world. The team at Tapas magazine was one of the he solely oversees the work. lucky few to visit. Legend has it that the relationship of Jay-Z with Cristal The company’s facilities boast an impressive space (Louis Roederer’s luxury champagne) weakened due to with fascinating scenery that once served as a bunker and the statements of a company executive who was unhappy hideaway for the French resistance during World War II. with the fact that his brand had become a cultural emblem Today, thousands of bottles are stored here and looked of American rappers. After this happened, Jay-Z decided after with exquisite care, tucked away in a never-ending to change his strategy by becoming the master and labyrinth made up of hallways inhabited by the family’s commander of his very own brand. The search for the right brand led him to Armand de Brignac: a prestigious family-owned business, considered the world’s best champagne producer, but which did not have the burden that comes with being a multinational corporation. As an added bonus, Jay-Z also had a warm relationship with Jay-Z might have Armand de Brignac’s owners, 11th-generation winemakers in one of the most prestigious regions in the world, at his been wise in disposal. Many say the deal was quick, painless and with purchasing the magnificent results for both sides. Today many things remain the same: the Cattiers still winery, but the live where they always have, just above their cellars. “If I want to drink a whole bottle at night I just have to go three creative management or four floors down. It’s great,” says Alexandre Cattier, and line of work is still chuckling. “Armand de Brignac is only 10% of Cattier’s entire production,” explains Alexandre. “We could sell in the hands of the two or three times more than what we’re selling but that Cattier family would decrease the quality of our products. And we have 148 TAPAS Fall 2016 149 TAPAS Octubre 2016 150 TAPAS Octubre 2016 no interest in this happening. Our best market so far? The limited Well, surprisingly enough, most of our products are sold in the United States, although we do pretty well in Japan production of Blanc and some parts of Europe as well.” de Noirs has turned BIG SPENDERS it into an object Armand de Brignac is known for its opaque, metal, hand- of worship which polished bottle, decorated with its famous label in the shape of an “ace of spades”—which also happens to be its has been auctioned name in the US. The champagne has managed to make it on every “Best List” and was even named number one for impressive by Champagne Magazine after a blind tasting of more amounts of money than a thousand brands. “We are very proud of our work because it is a tough thing to do. Not only when we have to select the grape but also when we have to manufacture the champagne,” Boutillat says as he leads us through a guided tour of the treatment facility, located in the region of Rilly- La-Montagne. “We only use Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and audience. Made in 2008, the Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs Pinot Meunier, and that’s one of our most distinguishing boasts an explosive flavor and consistency that has proved features, besides having a premium quality semi-sec, the naysayers wrong. The extraordinary Blanc de Noirs is which is something we can brag as being a unique quality,” the most expensive and exclusive of Cattier’s champagnes, adds the chief enologist at Cattier of their popular demi- priced at €1,000, as a result of a manufacturing that sec sparkling wine. hasn’t surpassed 2,600 bottles this year. Blanc de Noirs is Armand de Brignac has five different bottles: the most the newest creation of them all. It became so coveted that popular (and most affordable at €300) is the Gold Brut, in 2015, when sold in Harrods, it was auctioned off for an with a characteristic golden bottle. It was the first one the absorbent amount of money. brand launched back in 2006, composed of 40% Pinot After our visit, Jean-Jacques opened a 1976 Cattier for Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Meunier. (All Tapas. “I made it for some friends,” he says. Afterwards champagnes Cattier makes are a mix of the best from three he showed us the cork which featured the name of a couple different vintages.) The second, almost as popular as the and the year of their engagement, proving that what we Gold Brut for its pink color, is the rosé, made with a bit were about to drink was a bottle that had been saved for of red wine to achieve its color. Meanwhile, the demi-sec four decades.

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