NO T E .

E R S. N MILN . B PROFESSOR JOH F. y ,

THE only maps in which very many of the places mentioned

in followin the g notes can be found are the Admiralty Charts , numbered 2128 and Any one who compares these notes l w C H and charts, the origina s of which ere drawn by aptain . J . n w m m S ow, ith the scanty literature and i perfect aps previously

w l ac m existing, i l at once recognize how very much has been co

lish ed p by the patience and perseverance of an individual . New k n w l roc s and shoals have been i dicated, hi st supposed dangers

l of of a ike character have been removed . The position islands l l have been corrected relative y and in longitude, whi st anchorages,

- - n tide rips, watering places, sea lio and seal rookeries, have been located and described . The shortest route between Vancouver and certain ports on the Asiatic coast has been freed from un

n w -Pacific l certainties and da gers, hile Canadian steamers, wha ers , and a large fleet of pelagic hunters have now harbours of refuge opened which may be approached with comparative safety. In k short, after shipwrec s, risks, and dangers, the escapes from which l l have often seemed incredib e, independently of the geo ogical, l l natura history, and genera scientific notes which have been

H . w ll C . l co ected, aptain J Snow, hi st sacrificing by his publica

own t tions his professional interes s as a hunter, has entitled himself to recognition from all wh o navigate and patrol th e

- k K l fog bound shores of the roc y uri s .

SHID N WPOR I W E, E T, .

ct b 1 1 . O o er 9, 896

A n to s m mo ppe ded thi e ir.

TR D TI N IN O UC O .

THE Kuril Islands being but little known geographically or l w m otherwise, the fo lo ing notes may perhaps be of some s all l va ue . n They are the outcome of many visits, extendi g over a n w r n umber of years, in the course of hich eve y island has bee m m . visited, and each one circumnavigated any ti es

k u s n The remar s pon the phy ical features of the isla ds, the m w n n cli ate, inds, curre ts, inhabitants , fau a and flora, are all

m n n For n fro perso al observatio s . a few ge eral particulars as to nn R their discovery, a exation by ussia, eruptions of volcanoes, etc . ,

I am n i debted to various authorities . The heights of the m ountains given are from sextant ob ser vations u m , and are generally the res lt of an average of a nu ber

n and ff of sights, take at various times, at di erent distances ; so m a I k m . they y, think, be ta en as approxi ately correct On the charts * accom panying these notes the positions and forms of many of the islands will be found to differ considerably

u from any hitherto p blished . l I These maps, although not absolutely correct, wi l trust be f su ficient for all practical purposes of navigation . M m K any of the bays, capes, islets, and ountains of the urils, b m n m not eing na ed on any published charts, in describi g the

' I have called them by the names by which they are generally wn kno to the hunters frequenting the islands .

NOW . H . S . J

m ss on of th e o a A m s of ur By per i i Hydr gr pher, the d iralty Chart the K il ’ s n s w n Sno w s co n m n o s o s m mo . I la d , ith Captai rrecti , acc pa y thi e ir

CONTENTS.

HISTORY OF THE OCCUPATION or THE IsLANDs

PHYSIOG RAPHY AND G EOLOG Y or THE IsLANDs

INIIABITANTS OF THE KURILS

FAUNA AND FLORA

LIM W H R TIDEs ETC . C ATE, EAT E , ,

DETAILED DESCRIPTION o r EACH I SLAND AND STRAITS B ETWEEN

THEM

NOTES ON TH E KURIL I SLANDS .

B Y C P N H SNOW A TAI . J . ,

H OLDER G RANT AND DIPLOMA FOUNDED B Y ADMIRAL B ACK.

F H D H ISTORY O T E OCCUPATION OF TH E ISLAN S .

De D i THE Kuril Islands were discovered by Vrees, a utch nav gator,

1 634 h e 1 65i in . They are also said to ave been discover d in by m n m Sta d ukin ro l m a erchant a ed Taras , who sailed f m the Ko y a R H e s iver. passed through Bering Strait, and followed the coa t m of Kamchatka, doubling the southernmost cape , and aking the discovery of the Kurils . 1 1 1 Ru d 1 36 In 7 the ssians first invaded the islan s, and in 7 all R these to the north of Yetorup became subject to ussia . In 1 738 Spanberg sailed with three small vessels to examine m the Kurils, and wintered in Ka chatka . — 1 7 66 7 fur- In a voyage was made amongst them to collect a tax , and in 17 95 the Russian - American Company established a factory U on rup . Tow ards the end of the eighteenth century the Japanes e s s m Yet oru 1 8 06—7 R s n e tabli hed the selves on p , and in the u sia s on i n mad e descents that sla d .

In N 1 830 R s - m ovember, , the u sian American Co pany took

o m s n u s f r al po sessio of the K ril . In 1 8 7 5 all the Kurils north of Yet orup were handed over to n R s h li s S a a n. Japa by u sia, in exchange for the outhern part of g In 1 884 the Japanese governm ent rem oved the few remaining Kurilsk s n n u n n y Ainu to the i la d of Shikota , th s leavi g the isla ds

U h um h i r from rup to S s without a single inhabitant . 2 NOwas ON THE K RI IS A U L L NDS .

PHYSI G RAPHY AND G E L G Y OF TH E ISLA O O O NDS .

ALTH UG H s d s of th e t w o O the e islan , with the exception perhaps s u nm Yet oru a nd n l o ther ost, p Kunashir, are ever ikely to be of m m n much co mercial i portance , they are of interest as formi g part of the long line of volcanic vents extending along the western side P n N n of the acific Ocea from orther Kamchatka, down that penin u ill i s Ph i nes . ula, through the K rils, Yezo, and Japan , to the p P s M m U v J n rofe sor John ilne, of the I perial ni ersity of apa , our on and great authority earthquakes volcanoes, has published s n l m 1 8 8 ome otes on the Kuri s which he ade in 7 , when on a flying n n visit to these islands , which otes were suppleme ted by others * made on one or tw o subsequent visits to Yet orup and Kunashir. The Kuril ch ain of islands extends i n almost a straight line in

- n a north east directio , from the east coast of Yezo to the southern m 630 extre ity of Kamchatka, a distance of about geographical w n miles . This line may be regarded as a line of eak ess in the ’ E s u arth cr st, out of which , at fairly equally spaced intervals, P volcanic materials have been ejected to form islands . arallel w n u n n ith the mai fiss re, on its western side , is a seco d li e of

n n s and n . ve ts at wider i terval , apparently of more rece t origin

s n u s Sh i ri nki Mak anrush i r Ekarm a Thi li e r n through Alaid , , , ,

Ch irink otan Raik ok e Mak anr uru th e , , and to the volcanoes on peninsulas standing out from the north - west coast of Ye torup m n m s (which , fro appearances , were o ce separated fro that i land) , and across to the Sirotok o peninsula of volcanoes forming the

- north east point of Yezo . — — The island s nearest to Yezo Kunashir and Ye tor up are s t m n evidently the olde , and at one ti e may have bee connected N w z f . ith Ye o, their auna and flora being identical ext in age,

'

nd Vol . vii . x . l . i . a e c ol . i . . 1 . 1 8 o . D c 2 Vo v Tram . e s. So v 1 8 6 Geol Ma e . S , pt ; g g , , PH IOGRAPH AND EO O Y OF THE I A D 3 YS Y G L G SL N S .

m s n Sh umshi r Param ushi r apparently, co e the northern i la ds of and , m which were undoubtedly once joined to Kamchatka. The ost ar e Chi rink otan recent the smaller islands of , Black Brothers ,

Ush ish ir Shiri nki Raikok e Ekarma Mus , , , and , whilst the hir rocks , Sred noi n n Avos rocks , and rocks, are probably islands just begi ni g to make their appearance above the sea . m n u In for ulati g this chronological seq ence, the oldest islands are considered to be those where there is a fair developm ent of — sedimentary rocks a rounded appearance which has gradually been produced by subaerial denudation ; where volcanic activity is at a m m m ini u ; and where animals and plants are numerou s . The u n yo ngest members of the group , on the contrary, I regard as bei g

s — m those where sedimentary rocks are ab ent the ountains are sharp , and not materially altered by denudation ; where volcanic activity is at a maximum ; and where animals and plants are comparatively scarce . The separation of the northern and southern islands from and Kamchatka Yezo respectively, has been caused partly by m n arine denudatio , and partly perhaps by volcanic action , which , m n building up huge ountai masses in one place, may have caused a slow subsidence in others . There is abundant evidence that the Kurils are bei ng p u shed m n up bodily above the sea, as well as being built up by ejecta e ta r n J n m f om volcanic ve ts . udgi g fro signs on the shores, and reports

m a n n n on of old navigators , we y co clude that this elevatio is goi g , h F r n as n on . o or go e , at a comparatively rapid rate i stance , u m u m q antities of driftwood , co posed of big trees , are fo nd up so e of the valleys som e 30 or 40 feet above the height to which the

now d - ff sea rises . These heaps of old rift stu are partly buried s and t n in the earth , and overgrown with grasse coarse vege atio . On the south - east coast of Matau there are terraces and beach

n r 1 00 s n li es one above another, to pe haps feet above the pre e t s n D fi nd i n hore . In an old Chi a Sea irectory, I the following “ n Chi rnoi : A a ote on the Black Brothers (Brat ) reef, which m m r m much rese bles an artificial breakwater, extends a ile east f o ”

n m i s . its orth point, and at its extre ity a long rock n and At the prese t time this is part parcel of the island, the ” n m 50 h reef bei g a sandy neck of land so e feet igh , and over i n w th e sand d grow ith grass . Buried in of this ri ge, and even on 4 NOTES ON THE KURIL I SLANDS.

to o f Shi ashkotan b . the p it, there is considera le driftwood Again , , m m o s w as o n . fr appearance , rigi ally two islands It has a ountain mass a t each end which slope with a long sweep towards the m n m m iddle of the isla d, where it is not ore than half a ile wide ,

fl a t to u 1 00 - f s on p, and only abo t feet above sea level . Steep cli f on l t bound it both sides, and on these, in p aces near the top, wa er n s o d s wor boulder marking l beaches are to be een . s n n n The proce s of isla d formatio is still goi g on in the Kurils, a nd on m ore than one occasion I have witnessed submarine eruptions w ar e s hich evidence of this proce s . The total area of the Kuril Islands i s 28 60 geographical square

m s . as ile The area of each island, arranged according to size, is follows

Yet orup Brought for ward ‘ l aram ush i r Kh ari mkotan Kunashir Ekarma Urup North Black Brother Si mush ir South Black Brother Onekotan Mak anruru Sh umsh ir Shirinki Shikotan Ushish ir Alaid Raikok c Ketoi Chi ri nkotan Sh iashko tan Bird rock s Rash au Mushir rock s Makanrush ir Sred noi rock s

M u nd Puffin Is a n A os o s e tc . ata a l d v r ck ,

Carried forward Geographical square miles 2860

s s n n Noish af The cluster of low flat i land lyi g betwee Cape , the m n n n con extre e easter poi t of Yezo, and Shikota , can scarcely be

r m t sid ered as belonging to the Ku ils proper. They once for ed par o f sea m re s u the cape, through which the ade b aches and co red out

nn r n n num ss s r s and cha els , fo mi g five isla ds and berle i lets, eef , o i s 28 s m : Shib otsu 1 7 r cks . Their total area % quare iles , § 1 u s 3 u 3 u r 2 Ak i uri Haruk aru S i ho , } Tarak , 4 Y u , y , , and the other s 1 i lets together making about square mile .

“ ” In th e Ene clo aed ia ann a re a of Ye toru is n as 2656 s ua y p Brit ica, the p give q re m es ; P aram ush ir 1 135 u 563 One o n 244 Sh umsh ir 226 ; a nd Simush ir il , ; Ur p, ; k ta , ; , , n I th e m 1 . ow s as w n a o of th 1 6 H the e are ere arrived at it i s diffi cu lt to imagi e . j rity e a e s en u n s ou W s ou b e and in se of Yetoru r a giv the q a titie are d ble hat they h ld , the ca p

re m s or ou s. th e ti e , ther ab t ND E Y OF THE I AND 5 PH YSI OGRAPH Y A G OL OG SL S.

x Sh umsh ir With the single e ception of , all the islands are * u . mo ntainous and of volcanic origin Active, dormant , or extinct

u volcanoes are fo nd on every island with the exception mentioned . 1 0 f Ush i sh ir 764 The heights range from 36 eet ( ) to 0 feet (Alaid) . In the Ku ril Islands there are now twenty volcanoes from which s : Paramush ir steam issues . They are as follow On , northern

1 Chirink otan 1 Sh iash k otan 2 M 1 Rash au 1 part, , , atau , ,

Ushish ir 1 2 Simush i r r - s M , Ketoi , , no th we t side of ilne

U u 2 Y r 3 1 M u 1 2 eto u . o ntains , ; Black Brothers , ; r p , ; p, ; Kunashir,

- Ch irink otan Those I have noticed sending forth lava streams are ,

Simushir M n - , Black Brothers, atau , and the volca o at the north east F Yetoru a . end of p , on the south side of Be r Bay rom the craters

Chi rink ot an and M u - v m w of ata , the red hot la a si ply appeared to ell

v w sm m o er the breached lip, and run do n as a all strea along a scar m n Th m in in the side of the ountai . e re aining three I have seen m u m s violent eruption , e itting clo ds of black s oke , rocks, and a hes

m u u to a great height , acco panied by th ndering noises which co ld 5 m m be heard 0 iles or ore away . m J 1 8 9 On one of y visits to the islands in une, 7 , I witnessed ne w n s the formation of a poi t of land at the Black Brothers . Thi w as ff u e ected by a most remarkable, slow and grad al upheaval of u n the southern slope of the mo tain , close to the sea. n on This gradual raisi g went under my very eyes , masses of black volcanic rock being pushed up from below, which at short intervals rolled down the slope and fell crashing and splashing into

sea. n s the Watchi g an opportunity, I pulled my boat along ide

u u h ow this recently erupted rock , and fo nd it q ite hot , the heat, t he F ever, not being more than hand could bear. rom all parts of r m this newly fo med point s oke or steam was issuing . N w n m r ot ithstandi g a recent violent eruption fro the crate , and m u m this gentler one fro the base of the mo ntain , innu erable

ui limot s s r r g l , gull , shags , and othe birds , we e located on the ledges of f o f t h e the clif s , laying their eggs, close to the disturbed portion s u i land . At each th ndering and splashing noise made by the m u s u asses of rock rolling down , clo ds of these bird wo ld fly scream i n u n m u . g off, to ret rn and settle agai a few in tes later How w wa s long this slo upheaval lasted I am unable to say . It

On un s and Ye toru fo m n f n oun and fl n n o n nuc e K a hir p, r i g a ri ge r d, a ki g v lca ic l i , ‘ o z on s tufi s of sso J o n n are h ri tally tratified tertiary (Pr e r h Mil e, 6 NOT ON THE K RI I AN ES U L SL DS.

u going on the three or fo r days I remained around the islands , and u e j dging from the distance to which the point was xtended, the and m quantity height of the ass , I should say it must have con m w tinu ed at least for so e eeks .

Ma 1 883 - Yetoru In y , , the volcano on the north east end of p was v t t m in iolen activity, sending for h s oke, stones, and ashes , aecom

ani ed u - u s u n n p by lo d thunder like r mblings . The e th deri gs and n n no d n roari gs, stra ge to say, appeared to be lou er whe close

n w 30 or 40 m be eath the mountain than hen iles away. On

s fine . passing to leeward of the i land, we were covered with ashes s i n n 1 8 9 When pa sing the Black Brothers Ju e, 7 , quantities of

u u and m ashes as fine as flo r fell pon our decks, we ca e to the con e n u n u no lusion that the volca o was in a state of er ptio , altho gh s un fo th e m and o ds could be heard . A dense g prevailed at ti e, the s u on u m r i lands co ld not be seen . Later , d ring paroxys s of g eater

i ons n s . usual. d etonat activity, the and thunderi g were heard m n m 1 8 8 1 In the o th of Septe ber, , the parasitic cone on the n - M M ns Si mu shi r er u orth west side of ilne ountai , , was in active p

n - tio . Red hot lava trickled down its sides in numerous little s m s m u r n trea , which at night gave the o ntain the appea a ce of being

o n s D n u n and c vered with dull la tern . uri g this er ptio ashes large now w pieces of rock were also ejected , which stre the slopes and

u n base of the mo ntai .

M and Ch iri nk otan n m atau I have o ly seen ildly eruptive, and m u unacco panied by noise, except the hissing ca sed by the hot lava m n n fro the crater of Ch irink otan run ing i to the sea. There are num erou s signs of many m ore of the volcanoes having u n in m been in active er ptio recent ti es . One t of the lates , perhaps , is the volcano on the north end of

Sh iash kotan r t n 1 8 8 a nd m , I fi st visited his isla d in 7 , fro appear ances an eruption had not long previously taken place. At the base m n of m of the ountai near the beach , over an area so e two or three

s o f n - acre , were scores loose heaps of bur t and sulphurous looking m earth, from some of which steam was issuing. In so e places the

- n n s t n i n r r yellowish looki g grou d was of and yieldi g, othe s ha d , with here and there pools and springs of water tasting strongly m r of alum and d epositing a whitish sedi ent . Whe e this water

fl w I sea u . o ed nto the , it discolo red it for a considerable distance w as d The driftwood on the beach also charre , and the growth PH YSI OGRAPH Y AND GEOL OG Y OF THE ISLANDS. 7

w of short scrub in the vicinity burnt and killed . T enty years before there is a record of an eruption . f r The ollowing is a ecord of volcanic activity of the Kurils, but there have undoubtedly been many other eruptions i n modern m ti es, of which no account has been taken

— Aland In 1770 was smo n and in 1 793 was i n o n u on. It i s it ki g, it vi le t er pti now o m n or x n d r a t e ti ct . ‘ * slz — A o n to A Postels Fuss P and o no n P a ramu z r. . o cc rdi g , eak the v lca at the rth A l u end of s an w in 1 7 37 1 7 42 and 1 7 93 . sm n the i l d ere active , , a l q a tity of s m i s now n off om th e o no no end b ut all tea give fr v lca at the rth , the o s o m n or x n ther are d r a t e ti ct. ' ‘ hi z k — No s ns of S r n z . D s H man a n e cribed by er s active. ig activity have bee

shown during the past fourteen years . Onekota n - Th e o no Moun B s on on sou end of sl n . v lca ( t laki t ) the th the i a d s T is s n no o no de cribed by Herman as being ac tive . here at pre e t active v lca on s s n thi i la d . Kha ri mko n — o s n T ta L nd and H m n s f . . a grebe er a peak thi bei g active here are no s ns of n w ig activity at this isla d no . — Shi ashkota n. Eru in 1855 B o o no s on s s n n pted . th the v lca e thi i la d are givi g ' ofl mu s m ch tea . E/c — s I s a rma . P s m t i now allas describes flames as issuing from thi at ti e . o m n b ut w m s n s i ts s n t h as s th e d r a t , the ar pri g at ba e i dicate tha it till n ss m n to om n ece ary ele e t bec e active agai . Chi rinkota n — P s d s s s as a and s on s n o s on l alla e cribe thi ctive , lava t e bei g cca i a ly wn d on o T s ns w t i ts s n on . thr out . hi a ers o pre e t c iti — Ra ikoke. In o n u n in 1 7 8 an 1 80 It i s now x n or vi le t er ptio 7 d 7 . e ti ct o m n d r a t . M —Des n a ta u . s o s s and a S m no cribed by Pallas a throwi g ut tone lav . tea w su s m s t m f s o moun n and o s on sm s o . i e fr thi tai , cca i ally a all rea lava — Rasha u . S m ssu s m n s s o f s n tea i e fro an old crater o the ea t ide the i la d . Ushi shi r - F om u . r f meroles surrounded by a deposit of sulph urous earth inside s m i s n ff the crater, tea give o . K oi — Tw et . o o an V o n u v lc oes are at present steaming on this island . i le t er pt ion

in 1 843.

i ushi r — l - S m . On y the small volcanic peak on the north west side of the Milne Moun n ou is now It was in o n u on in S m r tai gr p active . vi le t er pti epte be , 1 881 The o o s s n d n t s w s ns . ther v lcanoe on the i la d o o ho ig of any activity i n n m s very rece t ti e . B lack B r others B hirnoi — Th e no n s n is s K us ns n ( rat C ) . rther i la d de cribed by r e ter nd P a s as t . S m ssu s om t wo s on t h s s n and alla ac ive tea i e fr peak i i la d, o s ow s ns of ons n s V o n peri dically they h ig c iderably i crea ed activity . i le t u ons oo in 1 M — n er pti t k place 87 9 ( ay Ju e) . ru h as t wo o no s om w h s m h as s d ssu e for s U p v lca e , fr hic tea tea ily i d the pa t ou n s f rtee year .

R f n s to P ostel Herm ‘ s an P allas etc . n f om Do um n s sur es e ere ce , . , , are take r c e t l ’ ’ T m m n s T l Arch i el d s i a A e Kour les . r . x s . 1 863 re ble e t de erre p , etc , p M le i Perrey 8 NOT ON THE K RI I LAND ES U L S S.

— - Yetorup Pallas describes the v olcano at north east end as conti nually throw mo Thi s moun n was in ing out flames and s ke. tai violent eruption in Ma 1 3 m now ssu s om and ou o 88 . S o no s on y , tea i e fr it f r ther v lca e thi s s i land . — ou M Kuna shi r S m ssu s om of R s oun n. . tea i e fr the crater e tai

f u Hot springs are to be o nd on most of the islands . I have

m l Ye toru Ush i shi r Rash au noticed the particu arly on Kunashir, p, , ,

Shi ashk otan Ek arm a . , and Rash au 3 On the western side of , about 5 miles from south 1 1 10 F cape, is a spring of warm water with a temperature of ahr . fs ns It emerges from the base of some high clif , and ru over a ledge w of flat rocks, in hich there are several crevices and hollows about

- w as large as a good sized bath tub . These hollo s are always filled

n - s with the hot water, and make capital bathi g place . With this hot spring close at hand I never saw or heard of it being used by sl the natives who lived on this i and . The water of this spring

s ss and s clear, ta tele , odourless , and doe not discolour the rocks over

which it flows . s Yet oru Kunashir has boiling prings, and on p there are a

m r number of hot springs, so e of which are reso ted to by the

n m sm inhabitants for the cure of ski disease , rheu ati , etc . $ Ush i shi r has a boiling spring inside the crater On the sou th

s H n o u t eastern ide . ere, at the base of the hills , the grou d widens n fl tti sh u s r h as n i to a a area, on which a bank of sulphuro ea th bee f u um m ormed . Thro gh this bank f eroles emit stea , bright yellow

- fl our like sulphur being deposited around these orifices .

C n sea - lose by this , and o ly a few feet above level, are the

springs of boiling mud and water. The hot water flows in a small

s m n . m a m trea into the basi of the crater The water, as y be i agined , u smells and tastes strongly of s lphur . Ush i shir , although one of the smallest islands of the group, is n n m an exceptio ally interesting one, partly on accou t of its for ation , and also for the marvellous nu mber of birds which resort to it n m duri g the sum er season . A description of the place may perhaps

be of interest.

The island is separated into two parts, joined by a bouldery

- f . n flatti sh n and ree The northern portio is on top , grass grow ,

n . w about a mile in exte t The southern part, hich is rather more m l than a mile in dia eter, is a ho low volcanic crater which has been

H K I N 10 NOTES ON T E URIL SLA DS.

i s or other land animals, and this the principal reason why there m La mas la u cu s are so many birds . The burgo aster gull ( g ) makes m u and its nest ore or less all over the islands , aro nd the hot spring u u t n u S H on the bank of s lphuro s ear h bei g favo rite pots . ere I have often taken the eggs and cooked them in the boiling water of ffs n s S n . the pri gs On the ledges of the rocks and cli , te s of thousand nd br i tnni chi la and of g uillem ots ( Ur i os tr ad e a U. ) y their eggs m n rear their young, whilst here and there a o gst them are large o Ri ssa tr i d a ct la c lonies of Kittiwake gulls ( y ) , with their nests ff perched on inaccessible shelves and in little hollows of the cli s . Hundreds of thou sands of fulmars (Fu lma r us p a eifi eu s) occupy every available grassy tussock and ledge on the steep sides of the m l island, both inside and outside the crater, whilst il ions of little k t t m sta cea Pha ler i s cr i s a ella P . au s, of several species ( and y n m s m i n and bei g the o t nu erous), lay their eggs the hollows crannies of every nook and beneath every boulder all round the island .

Towards evening these little auks take their flying exercise .

They gather in flocks of many thousands , and hundreds of these m l flocks will be in the air at one ti e, forming c ouds which almost n nd darke the atmosphere . They fly round a about the island, now n and w n n risi g high above the mountain, then s eepi g dow with a u off ss great r sh towards the water, to rise again and swerve , and pa and repass each other— each flock as one bird— as if they were r going th ough the intricate figures of a quadrille . l uillimots u fli ns The g , often accompanied by p , a so take their n u n eveni g exercise, but in a m ch quieter manner, theirs bei g a s d teady flight round and round the island in an endless line or ban . All the birds that take this apparently regular exercise are con fined to those species with comparatively heavy bodies and short W i ngs .

uffins uillim ots Tufted p , black g , and shags also breed here in l - - r . H u ffi ns u arge numbe s orned p , parrot billed a ks, grey headed ’ - mm b u t . s auks, fork tailed petrels, and Leach petrels are co on , not

m . H u u b ut n nu erous arlequin d cks are plentif l, I never have bee

B er ni cl lm tchi nsi m able to find their eggs . Wild geese ( a ) in li ited

- numbers breed here also. The land birds are confined to ravens, falcons, wagtails , and wrens . Ushishi r k was the favourite station of the Kurils y Ainu . T E A 1 1 PH YSI OGB APH Y AND GEOL OG Y OF H ISL NDS.

Earthquake shocks are frequent all along the Kuril chain of on islands . I have experienced them shore and on board ship , both P when at anchor and when under way . erhaps when a shock is t fel on board a ship that is under way, the disturbance causing it is more likely to be a submarine eruption rather than an earth

. n w n i s quake Whe , ho ever, a vessel is lying at a chor, she attached b to the earth by her anchors and ca les, and an earthquake is com municat ed to the vessel through them . On l 1 2 1 88 4 l u Ju y , , when sailing a ong the islands, about fo r

Sred noi ff miles to the westward of the rocks, we felt the e ects m of a series of earthquake shocks , or more probably the co motion m ’ m caused by a sub arine eruption . About five o clock p , when in ’ m n out y cabin, a noise like the ru ning of a line over a vessel s rail

heard . I thought a cast of the lead was being taken , as a

t h e m and u . thick fog prevailed at ti e, took no f rther notice Some m t n little ti e af erwards the same kind of sou d again occurred, but f no much louder. On making inquiries on deck, I ound that one ’ t e n had no iced it . About six o clock w were sitting dow to our m evening meal, when a violent trembling of the vessel, acco panied off by a sound like steam blowing from a boiler, took place . All n run hands rushed on deck, thinki g the vessel had on a reef ; but

u all was quiet and as us al , the schooner slowly forging ahead with

- - a very light south south east breeze . Several casts of the lead were

n m s take , but no botto found with all the line out . Thi same rush ing noise and trembling of the vessel continued for nearly two n hours, at intervals of about fifteen mi utes , each time lasting about . t No thir y seconds . disturbance of the sea was noticed , but on

V i i account of the fog our range of s on was very limited . The ° m F h r 36 a . te perature of the sea was as usual , Although to those below the rushing noise like the blowing off

u u of a steam boiler appeared to be very lo d , those on deck co ld not

e n m o f w a s h ar it, notwithstandi g that the tre bling the vessel u u m eq ally perceptible there . The so nd ust , therefore, have been m co municated through the water, and was undoubtedly due to a m d s sub arine i turbance of some kind .

Ush ishi r Rash au Some days after I visited the craters of and , but t they showed no signs of increased ac ivity . 12 OTES ON THE K RI I AN N U L SL DS.

N A TANTS OF THE R S I H BI KU IL .

N A TANTS — s I H BI . The only island of the Kuril chain which are

nh Yetoru off- at present i abited are p, Kunashir and the ly ing

‘ t n m s I s i n Shiko a . The nu ber of people on the e sland January ,

1 8 91 2886 u as w : Ye toru 1 343 u s , was , distrib ted follo s p , ; K na hir,

14 76 n s - o f m t 6 . ; and Shiko a , 7 At lea t three fourths the total nu ber

J s . 6 of inhabitants are apanese, the re t are Ainu Of the 7 people

on Kurilsk . Shikotan , all but two are y Ainu Yetoru Besides the permanent residents, p and Kunashir are — visited during the fishing season which extends over half the — b m w h o year y several hundred fisher en, are employed principally i n and m the capture, salting down , shipping of sal on and salmon

u n s n s s . tro t, by Japa e e having fishi g rights in the i land Having unwisely ventured to try a winter season’ s hunting f D 4 in the vicinity of the Kurils , I had the mis ortune , on ecember ,

1874 Yetoru Oneb e ts , to be wrecked on the east coast of p, near , w m where we lived for t enty days in an Ainu hut . We then ade ou r way through the snow across the island to the settlement o f Fureb ets on n - s u s , the orth west coa t, where we were ho ed and

no s most kind ly cared for by the Japanese . There were mean m of getting away from the island at that ti e of year, and we h d Fureb ets Ma a to remain at until nearly the end of y , when i n a Japanese Government steamer called , and we were sent

o H in d wn to akodate her. The British Government showed its appreciation of the kind treatment we had received by distributing am ongst those who had seen to our welfare presents to the amount 5 of $ 00. During this forced residence on Yetorup I saw a great deal u of the aboriginal Ain of the island , and since that time I have I NHAB ITANT OF TH K 1 S E URILS. 3

on many occasions been amongst them . I have also had some Sa h alin N experience of those inhabiting Yezo, g , and the orthern

Kurils . Ye toru l all The p natives were, and are sti l, nearly employed D J . by the apanese fish merchants uring the spring they take cod , later on salmon trout and salmon . The winter is chiefly occupied

- in wood cutting . Yetoru The Ainu houses of p are similar to those of Yezo ,

m r being ade of g ass or reeds lashed upon a framework of wood .

S b s s Sometimes labs of ark are placed outside the gras . The roof

. s are high , of steep pitch , and thatched with grass The window

i s are small and closed generally by a board , and the entrance fi reh ole closed by a mat. There is a in the centre of the house , and the smoke escapes through a hole in the roof. On Yetoru p I never met with Ainu occupying the half- under s of s ground dwelling , like those used by the natives the island m -d w ll farther north . The re ains of these pit e ings are, however, very common . For clothing these Ainu chiefly wear garments made of a cloth m u ade from bark fibre , like those sed by the Yezo natives, and

- mocassins reaching to the knee , made of salmon skins . The Ye torup Ainu are without treasures like old Japanese lacquered bowls , tray s , tubs and boxes, etc . , such as are seen in many native houses in Yezo .

n - These atives , like those of Yezo , are a broad shouldered , thick se t - se t- u w t , well p, stal ar race , and , if washed and combed , might s and m be counted hand ome . Their shaggy heads beards give the a w ild appearance ; b ut all idea of ferocity is at once dispelled n one s on making their acquaintance, whe notes the gentle expres ion

o f n . their large soft brow eyes, and their low musical voice M f any of the girls are comely and attractive , having clear air s u E - l - s s kins, f ll uropean looking eyes, we l formed limb and bodie , and voices naturally softer and m ore musical than those of the N t n us men . otwiths anding the hard life they lead , worki g j t

m en m u fun and m . as hard as the , they are bri f l of merri ent

r d . The hai iness of the Ainu has , I think , been much exaggerate

As l s s a ru e the Ainu men have fine beard and moustache , which t s they allo w to grow to the fullest exten . They are al o hairy u l abo t the body and imbs, but not more so than very many 14 NOT ON THE K RI I AN ES U L SL DS.

E . uropeans The exaggerated idea of their hairiness is, no doubt,

d u - e to the contrast between the smooth skinned, hairless Japanese

C . n and hinese and these people As for the Ainu wome , they are m w practically free fro any abnormal gro th of hair, and I have never seen amongst them any approach to the hirsute crop t E observable on the faces of many women of Sou hern urope. m n u The Ainu people are fast di inishi g, and altho gh a project has been set on foot by infl uential Japanese and foreigners to

m v r m n i s take eans to try and preser e the race f o exti ction, there ,

m . I a afraid , but little hope of success Their habits, their helpless

s and ne s want of spirit, and their passion for strong liquor, are n m agai st the ; and, like all other savage peoples who come in s m s . contact with civilized one , they are doo ed to di appear m n t The Ainu have no energy or a bitio , and every bit of spiri , s an d one if they ever pos essed y , has disappeared . Although to ay u n t s sees but little , if any, act al tyra ny on the par of their Japane e

s uf n n n ma ters , yet there is s ficie t circumsta tial evide ce to show that ' v sufl ered m n P n they ha e harsh and cruel treat e t . ractically leadi g t m the life of serfs , and taugh to look upon the selves as altogether

u s inferior beings to their Japanese conq eror , they have for n w hundreds of years bee so co ed and crushed, that they have

n s n a nd lost all idea of resistance or i dependence, and helple s ess n submissiveness have become hereditary . Whatever the Ai u may

n - m u m v have bee ages ago, to day they are the ost docile , s b issi e,

l s e . an m an and spirit es p ople on the face of the earth Strike Ainu , n n s and the chances are he will burst i to tears . I have see thi m one n n n m on ore than occasion, the chastiseme t bei g nothi g ore u f n d nu i s than a smart c f with the ope han . In the Ai there a curious m ixture of cou rage and timidity ; they do not. hes itate t and n to at ack a bear, but they have a mortal insti ctive fear of the ff n e ff s Japanese . Witness their dread of o endi g the Japan se o icial by giving infor mation about themselves to Miss Bird a s recorded “ m n Un n E n in her char i g book, beaten Tracks in Japa . ve the Kurilsk u wh o w n w northern y Ain , ere not subject to Japa , ere

r n and n w n m u r terribly af aid of the Japa ese, I have k o the h riedly m s n n shift fro one i land to another on lear i g their approach . This fear of their Japanese m asters w as m uch m ore apparent

w i s - w s some t elve or fifteen years ago than it to day . It a probably as causeless then as i t is now ; but there is little d oubt that this INHAB ITANT F TH R 15 S O E KU ILS . apparently unreasonable fear is the result of cruelty and oppression n n in the past . The Japanese Gover me t has of late years done nu o t considerable to help the Ai , but unf r unately there is too little inclination on their part to help themselves . n With no written language, the Ai u have but little history an n of their o wn . With practically abse ce of stirring traditions m of their people to put and keep heart in the , with few or no doughty deeds of their forefathers to emulate, they have literally

m . In nothing to ake them proud of their race other words , they n have no patriotic spirit, and consequently othing to encourage ff them to make an e ort to continue to exist as a nation . Like the k x Blac s of Australia, their e tinction is all but assured . It is a pity

m so m s that such a sturdy and co ely people, uch uperior in physique J u e s u ff i t n e . to their apanese r l r , sho ld be e aced, but ca not be avoid d n The Ainu are appare tly a strong and healthy people , and one w ou ld think thei r num b ers ought to increase but the opposite is s E m the case . The reason for this are several . pide ic diseases , m n m n m like s allpox for insta ce , when it once gets a o gst the , plays u m s m n sad havoc . Syphilis, introd ced a ong t the by the Japa ese , m i n u and d n . ri k, play a not uni portant part red cing their numbers One other cause which tends largely to prevent the increase of this m people is , in y opinion, the fact that, wherever the Ainu live in n n contact with Japa ese, nearly all the you g girls with any r n n m s p ete sio s to good looks become the istresses of Japane e . As

n r ur such they often cha ge thei masters , and are not enco aged to

no bear children . After they have lost their freshness and are n m and d lo ger attractive, they arry an Ainu husband , the chil ren

u m a m . of s ch marriages, as y be supposed , are li ited in number So m an m far as y observation extends , Ainu girl prefers to beco e the mistress of a Japanese rather than the wife of one of her ow n

. u and people A Japanese, as a rule , can ho se , feed, clothe her e n m s b tter, besides providi g her with any little luxurie which with u m n an Ainu h sband it would be i possible for her to obtai . f m m Large a ilies are very rare a ongst the Ainu . Inter and n m marriage between Japanese men Ainu wome is co mon , b ut I have never known of a Japanese woman marrying an

Ainu man . The offspring of Japanese and Ainu marriages are not long

li . ved . It is said they u sually die out in the second generation 1 6 NOT ON THE I I ES KUR L SLANDS.

s is l Thi probably true, for there is little , if any, trace of Ainu b ood

in the northern Japanese . D n Ye toru 1 8 5 J uri g my stay on p in 7 , I was told by the apanese t J doc or of the place that when the apanese first came to the island , w about a hundred years before , there ere some fifteen hundred u n n Ain there . They were a fine, stro g, healthy lot of people, livi g

on - n - fi t chiefly bears, seals , sea lio s , sea otters , and sh , the roo s of

- s and lenti several wild plants, berries, and sea bird their eggs , a p

ful s upply of all these being easily obtained in their due seasons . From the advent of the Japanese their numbers grad ually

m 1 87 5 450. decreased , until at that ti e ( ) there were less than Th e doctor also informed m e that about seventy years previou sly two Hitotsub ash i Ya k unin (Japanese ofli cials) were sent t o u ofli cials Ye torup to take up their q arters . These were the first to s b ut reside on the island . The fir t lived at Oito, later on at

u - o Shana, further p on the north west coast, where a sort of f rt or u l castle was b i t . Forty years after this there was strife am ongst the Ainu of

s n the i land, the northern natives fighti g with the southerners, about some presents which had to be sent every year to the Ainu n a s 1 8 59 w chief in Yezo . As rece tly there ere, according to his s Yet r u un 1 200 o . acco t , native on p The Japanese appear to have e stablished themselves on th e n n m n isla d without oppositio fro the Ai u . ’ n s m s This accou t of the doctor , in so e re pects, agrees with that ’ f Mr . . o n . . . give in W G Aston s paper, published in vol i the “ Tra ns a cti ons O the Asi a ti c Soci et o J a a n n R s n f y f p , e titled us ia

D s n i n Sa h alin Itoru 1 806 and w e ce ts g and p in here I find , “ At this time ( 1 807) the Japanese colony (on Yetor up) was in

h n n s a tolerably flouris i g condition . It had bee establi hed more n t u tha ten years before, and had hen a pop lation of more than

1000 u a nd 300 350 n n n w m m o f Ain to Japa ese, i cludi g five o en ; ost ” h n s t e s . Japa e e were, however, soldiers garri oned at Shana The reason of the Russian d escents w a s to coerce the Japanese

m n n mm R ss Govern e t i to agreeing to a co ercial treaty with u ia, the Tycoons Governm ent havi ng persistently refused all friendly o u end a nd r R s n s n vert res to that , o dered the u sia hips beari g a letter from the C zar to the Tycoon on this subject to quit the N . w im ri sonin f harbour of agasaki This, together ith the p g of ourteen

8 N T . ON THE K RI N 1 O ES U L ISLA DS.

d R k It contained several rooms, and was heate by a ussian bric m oven built in the iddle of the house . There was an upper

r h f s w as . to ey with a veranda in front, on which a flagsta f set up This w as evidently the Official residence in the prosperous days of the place . The most im portant settlements on the northern Kurils were at P U Uratm an in n Sim ushir ort Tavano, rup ; , Broughto Bay, ; and the

- m n Mai ru o Sh um sh i r above e tioned pp , on . At each of these, besides

s - n the core or so of half u derground dwellings , there was a church n a d a substantial wooden building, used as a store and residence by fur m N the agents of the co pany in former years . early all traces

s n of the e woode buildings have now disappeared, and a visitor to m day w ould never i agine that such had once existed. For 1 878 some years previous to , the northern natives depended u for their scanty supply of luxuries and necessaries, such as g ns,

w . s po der, lead, caps , tobacco , knives, etc , on the yearly vi it of a n s u tradi g ves el, which touched at certain of the islands d ring the

su mm - and s er, and traded for the skins of the sea otters foxe

r n n n Sh um sh ir captured du i g the wi ter. Those livi g on , the nearest

s n Petro aulovski i la d to Kamchatka, would occasionally visit p , m v 1 0 aking the oyage , a distance of about 7 miles , in their boats n s u mm d uri g the fine er weather. There they could supply their

wants by bartering away their peltries . F 1 8 7 8 b rom , when the northern islands began to be visited y

- n F m otter hu ting craft, the natives fared somewhat better. ro these vessels they were able to procure many little luxuries unattainable m f — rifles ff by the be ore , cartridges , tobacco, biscuit, tea, co ee ,

n for sugar, clothes, etc . , and eve soap . The women always begged

m s the latter, but I u t say I never saw it used . Som e of these northern Kurilsky were similar i n appearance to Yet oru b u t n the Ainu of p and Yezo , not so good looki g ; others n m Kamch atd ales were evide tly of ixed blood , probably with and

u s . m O Ale t They were less hairy, had s aller eyes, and the pen lips “ and blubbery appearance of som e of the Kamchatkan tribes .

s n s n n Beside their unclea lines , their fo dness for strong dri k, and n u few n i n mm h n their la g age, they had thi gs co on with t eir brethre f s u v n o the o th . I never saw amongst these people the car ed woode

k - l nife sheaths and househo d utensils, and the peculiar salmon spear r a f as u h r i i an o g f , used by the so t e n A nu ; nor did I ever w tness y INHAB I TANT OF THE K RI S U LS. 1 9

- c bear feasts or dan es , or the custom of raising the moustache with a n stick when drinki g, so universal in the south . The dwellings of these people were constructed by hollowing out a n a shallow pit, usu lly in a sandy soil, planti g posts around it, and , b P if they could be got, making an inside lining of oards . oles were

and e. laid across the top, forming a flat roof, mor poles again laid at an n e a gle from the dge of the roof, so as to give the sides a sharp s Was lope . The whole then covered with reeds or grass, on which nd n was placed earth a turf. The e trance was closed by a roughly m or n m ade wooden do , which ope ed into a s all lobby and low w n n m narro passage, with another door ope ing i to the ain compart

- k ment. Around the sides of this bunk li e recesses were constructed

n - u der the lean to side walls . These were thickly strewn with

- ri u s . d ed grass, and ed as sleeping places

t w o Sometimes these dwellings consisted of or three rooms , each d one being separated by a short, low, narrow passage, with a oor u u n at each end . These larger houses are fo nd more partic larly o Sh um sh i r Off n , where the natives were much better tha those of the

u m h um h i r . an S s central Kurils In the ho se of the chief on , which m saw was one of three roo s, I plates, cups, and saucers , and was

— - invited to take some tea an alm ost unheard of lux ury with the R Ush ish i r R n . s natives of and asha , etc ough tables, seats, and shelve t one were fi ted up inside the better houses , and each had a kind of m u s all altar, on which was placed a brilliantly coloured pict re of m f M r O C . our Lord and the Virgin a y, and in so e a picture the zar Their worldly possessions were very limited ; some pots and f n a few an - and pa s , tools, a knife or two , old muzzle loading rifle, m m m a few odds and ends, co pleted their outfit. So e of the had and s m u m dogs, there were usually at each ettle ent a co ple or ore m m n m . E n s boats, which appeared to be co on property ve a o g t

s ff n s r n m the e poor people there were di ere t grade , ce tai fa ilies taki ng precedence of others . n i sea The food of these people co s sted of the flesh of the seal ,

- - fi h s ea r s and s . lion, otter, sea fowl and their eggs , ber ie , a few roots ,

s n m d . They did not, however, appear to be large eaters of the la t a e

F n u n n m and ood was ple tif l duri g the summer, but, bei g i provident

r w n u r n W n and ve y lazy, they ere ofte hard p shed du i g the i ter

n s m s h n u s m and m u ss spri g , ometi e avi g to s bsi t on the few li pets els n they could gather around the rocks o the beach . This usually 20 N T N THE K RI I O ES O U L SLANDS. happened when the weather was too cold and boisterous to get about, or when they had used up all their ammunition .

- The flesh of the sea otter, which is very rank to a civilized palate , was their favourite food . The intestines of the animal , put n u t m i to a sa cepan j us as they were taken fro the carcase, without a n y attempt at cleaning, and stewed, was considered a great delicacy. b Like all the rest of the northern tri es , they were extremely n m f t . et e w wh o . fo d of spiri s I have , however, a would not drink On Sagh alin I have seen a native Ainu woman give her baby at n the breast eat rum , which the little one appeared to enjoy, for i t cried for more, and would not be quieted till it got it.

b i rd skins The dresses of these natives were made of , sewn

- . together with sinews of , the sea lion The feathers were worn ns n n i ide ext the ski . The outside of the dress was usually adorned with the yellow plumes and brilliantly coloured beaks of the tufted fli d u n. n n m and horned p The e ges, and arou d the eck, were trim ed

n r r k w as with ar ow strips of fur sealskin. In shape the p a a like

s . a large hirt It was put on over the head, and had an opening

w . half ay down the front At the neck it was fastened by strings , ’ on the ends of which were ornaments made Of puffins beaks and a sm l - h m n al piece of fur. A girdle of sea lion ide was used by the e

m s w . to tie in at the aist The wo en generally wore theirs loo e , ’ m s and it was ade longer than the men , because, I suppose, they did

u u not wear tro sers as a r le. The overhanging fold above the girdle was used instead of a ff n . n o s pocket . It was a receptacle for everythi g In bringi g skin n a rka to trade, they would i variably be stowed away inside their p , and m produced one at a ti e, and when the bartering power of that one skin was exhausted , another would be produced, and so

on. E n verythi g got in exchange, that would go inside this gar

n r me t, was put there, and it was common to see tins of powde , boxes of caps, pieces of lead, tobacco, tea, sugar, cooked rice, e and i n b ef and pork, old shirts trousers , etc all stowed away, ’ d s m . m i cri inately mixed up, around a man s waist Someti es they ’ w o u k uld bring off seafowls eggs, and not a few wo ld get bro en . n n The state of thi gs i side their p a r ka can be imagi ned .

For l b i rd skins s ower garments they wore trousers made of al o, h l Ob ld l i r wh en t ey cou d not tain any O c oth ones n trade . T ousers 2 1 INHAB I TANTS OF THE KURILS . and shirts were much in demand ; but coats, waistcoats , hats , and boots were comparatively useless to them . m n A cap of sealskin, and ocassi s reaching to the knee, the . s - and f - upper made of sea lion or seal hide, the eet of the rubber like s - u One t w o kin of sea lion flippers, completed their o tfit. or of the Sh umshi r natives possessed a suit of foreign clothes and a Russian k pea ed cap . The boats used by these Kurilsky Ainu were peculiar to them s n elves . They were most ingeniously constructed, and , consideri g the poor tools, the materials of which they were built, and the way

in w . which they were put together, ere good serviceable craft b 30 l 5 d Some of them were a out feet ong, 5 feet broa , and about 4 feet deep .

They were built with considerable shear . The stem and stern k n posts were made of a thick plan bent i to a rounded form , ex tending from the keel plank , and carried up about a foot and a half above the level of the gunwale, the ends or heads being shaped n - i to a spear head form . Inside, the boat was strengthened by t o frames and knees. The broad planks outside were placed edge t as edge, shaped to coincide with the shear, and made to mee w neatly as their rough tools would allo . Over the seams half round battens, about an inch wide, were placed , and kept in w position by lashings of whale sinews or whalebone fibres , hich passed through small holes made in the planks just above and below the batten . These lashings were continued all along the s l 6 8 E eams at interva s of about or inches . ach one was Off finished separately, not carried on from one to another, the sinews being passed round and round over the battens and through the holes . The holes were then tightly plugged with wooden k pegs, and the seams inside cal ed with moss . In the same manner lashings were passed through holes In the planks round the timbers

. and knees The gunwale, thwarts, strengthening pieces , etc . , were f all astened in this way, and so a good serviceable though rough boat w as constructed without a nail or a piece of meta l of any

i n . k m kind being used it Short oars, wor ed on pins or in gro m s of - s et sea lion hide, were used to propel the boat . A ma t k and an old sail , probably got out of some wrec , completed the ou tfit. P revious to the removal of those Kurilsky who choose to 2 2 NOT N THE K RI I A ES O U L SL NDS.

R remain ussians after the exchange of territory, these natives

- bi d r ki s a s . possessed skin covered , such as are u ed by the Aleuts Al l R these, however, seem to have disappeared with the ussian n conti gent. The Kurilsky inhabiting the central islands frequently shifted “ n n their quarters from one island to a other. Wh en this flitti g m r u n n took place, it was a atter of se io s co sideratio . The weather m u had to be watched very closely, both for stor s and fogs. Sho ld

in w as r o f the latter set when they were at sea, there great isk n n h no them not bei g able to find their destinatio , as t ey possessed m u n and u n n On s co pass, and the c rre ts were strong certai . the e s m and m voyage the wo en youths did ost of the rowing, whilst an old chief captained each boat, steering with an oar. The natives who remained on the northern Kurils after they

m J r on n s beca e apanese te ritory, c ti ued to re ide in their old settle m u ments for several years , and then, ch to their sorrow , were removed by order of the Japanese Government to the island of

Shikotan . n Their dogs were all killed, and their boats left behi d . They m were located at Shakotan, a s all bay on the north side of the

s H r out m t o i land . e e a village was laid and built they were ade m nd r n . S a wo k, and encouraged to cultivate plots of la d o e cattle

s n s n . heep also, which they had to atte d to, were placed on the i la d and They were allowed so much rice, and a doctor teacher were m provided for the . N — n otwithstanding this change for the better, one would thi k n m they were very unhappy, and pi ed for their northern ho e with

its n m h m m s all dirt a d disco forts . The c ange fro an al o t wholly animal diet to one of rice and a few vegetables and fish did not

m m n . suit the , and a y died the first year f r The Japanese of icials placed ove them were very arbitrary, m and the poor creatures were in gr eat fear of the . They told me or they dare not leave the settlement, go out in a boat, kill a seal,

r n n do anything out of their ordina y routi e, without first obtai ing m m f per ission fro the o ficial . 1 8 The last tim e I saw any of these natives was in 89 . I was

n m m 6 m r m . One lyi g in Ana a Bay, so e iles or so f o their village m r m r of the , hea ing that y vessel was there, sec etly left the settle m hi s s l a and m ment, ade way over the hill to where we y , ca e on N F THE K I 3 INHAB I TA TS O UR LS. 2

H l r k J l . e board had ea ned to spea apanese fairly we l, and could E e k . H also spea a little nglish told me his woes , and how they all longed to get back to their former hom es “ He finished his

r I s story, in the most plaintive vo ce maginable, in these word “ Ush ishir d obr e - lé - é - nt Shikotan, no good ; y (good), sea lion p y ,

- lé - é- ut - lé- é - nt le- é - u t k sea otter p y , fur seal p y , bird p y ; Shi otan nO- O no- O got, Shikotan got . r Afte he had been on board some time, a boat, manned by He several men, was noticed pulling into the bay . recognized . n them, and said they were comi g to look for him, and asked to be was hidden until they went away ; so he sent into the forecastle . in Those the boat came on board , and, after a short stay, left with r Kurilsk out finding o inquiring for our y friend . h im After their departure we landed our visitor, making happy trifles with a present of tobacco and a few . Ku rilsk n 1 891 The y Ai u on Shikotan, in October, , numbered

fift - l but y nine men , women, and chi dren . They were visited at m R J that ti e by a ussian missionary priest from apan . Ku rilsk n Amongst the y , judging from appeara ces, there were few an n , if y , of pure Ainu blood ; they were a mixture of Ai u , Kam ch atd ales , and Aleuts , these last having been taken to the h Kurils in the days of t e old Russian American Company. u Yetoru The p re Ainu do not extend beyond p . The Ainu race has been considered by some ethnologists to n have had a northern origin , and that this people pe etrated to

Jezo and Japan, advancing southwards and westwards, until they were m et and turned back by the Japanese advancing from the opposite direction . H C m P The researches of Basil all ha berlain , rofessor of P m U i Japanese and hilology in the I perial n versity, amongst old m Japanese writings , and his study and explanation of any of the

l - m p ace na es of the country, prove beyond a doubt that the Ainu C once inhabited entral and Western Japan, and may have had a more extended southern range . There is little or nothing to lead one to assume a northern n n origi for the Ainu ; indeed, there is a certain amou t of negative evidence which , I think , tends to show that they were not a no n h s s s rthern race . The Ai u has no marked c aracteri tic , custom , s s all i e s . u s m uten il , weapons , boat , etc , pec liar to mo t, if not , pri it v 24 N I N NOTES O THE KUR L I SLA DS.

n u races i habiting a rigoro s climate ; as, for instance , a fondness

- - s for raw food, oil and blubber, the use of dog sledges, snow shoe k boats and canoes made of s ins , ornaments and weapons made of u v walrus ivory, the almost ni ersal use of skins and furs for cloth ing, and houses constructed to keep out cold .

- The Ainu always cooks his food . Although a great flesh eater, u l s he is not fond of oil or bl bber. A though he has dog , and Yezo Yetoru not and p during the winter are suitable, he does make use

- . He u ses or b and of dog sleighs , , used, amboo to tip his weapons , he does not possess ornaments or weapons or charm s made of

walrus or mammoth ivory , some few of which would surely have been preserved and handed down had his race originally com e His from the north . clothing is chiefly made of a coarse cloth

k His u woven from the bar of a tree . house is such as wo ld naturally be used in a warm or mild climate ; it is not even ad apted m n to the cli ate of Yezo , to say nothi g of regions further north . The Ainu say that Yezo was formerly inhabited by a people

' ' Kor O- Ok- a r u whom they call p g l (dwellers in holes), and whom in they say they destroyed . They also speak of these ancient Koshi to ll habitants as (sma people), because, they say, they were a

very diminutive race.

l - ok - It is possible that the Ainu be ief, that the Koro p guru were m a di inutive people, is a comparatively modern one.

d - - The inside of the wellings of the Koro pok guru are very low,

and the entrance door and lobby passage still lower, being only 4 i con about % feet high , so that an ord nary man has to stoop sid er b l a y on entering . It is quite conceivable that the Ainu

Th e A nu of Yetoru d o use snow-s o s b ut un n n to i p h e , they are like a ythi g be foun in no and of use . T o i n s and o s o d the rth , very little hey are val hape, b th h es

i . T f om 24 to 30 n s on and ou 8 n s w m of are al ke hey are r i che l g ab t i che ide, ade t wo s of woo ou an n w n oun n o fo m of on piece d ab t i ch ide, be t r d i t the r a l g U. Th e o n n s o and s Th e s o i s f s n o pe e d are verlapped la hed together . h e a te ed t the foo on of sea- on s n w is ss two or m s oss s o t by a th g li ki , hich pa ed three ti e acr the h e at d s n of ou one - of its n f om fo end w h as s a i ta ce ab t third le gth r the re , hich a light u w h e of fo o on n of n . T o s s on ss s w p ard be d ball the t re t the cr ed th g, the e d hich are brought over the instep and passed i n Opposite directions around the heel and beneath n - o f on Off Th e s o i s not n an on s t w f s n . d the a kle b e the r t, here they are a te ed h e etted, on n u f i s m of s o the ly beari g s r ace the foot and the narrow ri the h e .

‘ of Jo n n h as u s som No s on o o - ok - u u or 1 Pr . h Mil e, p bli hed e te the K r p g r , Pit ” w o A i Of Y nd Ku i e i f Tra ns . the s a ti c oci et o s o a r l s n vol . x o d eller ez the , . the f S y f

26 NOT ON THE K RI I AN ES U L SL DS.

AUNA AND ORA F FL .

MA A S — s MM L . The mammalia of the Kuril Islands are Tho e oun Yetoru o s o f d on p and Kunashir are identical with th e of Yez , and thosefound on Paramush ir and Sh um sh i r are the same as thos e m of Ka chatka . The follo w ing is a list (prob ably incomplete) of the mammals of the islands . B ea rs Ur sa s er orc . f Yezo bear.

ar ctos . , var. black bear

a r ctos . . , var brown bear ” tos U a r c . a . Wall ce, in his Island Life, calls the Yezo bear “ F a s U er ow i s Siebold, in his aun Japonica, give it as . f , and he

P R P . followed in this by rofessor ein . robably neither is correct U r c . a tos Sh um sh ir P r mush i r is found on and a a . There are two i n varieties, which the Kamchatkan natives distingu sh by calli g one t the black and the other the brown bear. They both at ain a large s b ut ff ize, there appears to be a considerable di erence in the shape n of the skulls a d in the teeth of the t wo varieties . The Japanese claim to have w hi te bears in the northern part of m a r i ti m u s l R n U. their country, and both Siebo d and ei give in their lists . The polar bear, however, never gets to these parts ; it N0 is simply impossible for it to do so . Arctic, or Bering Sea ice

e . even , ver gets to the Kuril Islands The ice that reaches Yezo and these islands is formed in the northern and north - western parts of Y t oru Okotsk r r . e the Sea of , where there are no pola bea s The p natives told the writer that they sometimes obtained a whi te bear ; but on closer inquiry he found that what they called a whi te bear

Yez o b ea r ver li ht d r a b - colour ed coa t m e was the with a y g , which so of them appear to get at a certain age or season . FAUNA AND FLORA. 27

— Wol Cams hod o h lax F Yetoru f p y ound on Kunashir and p .

It Is rarely seen . — Forces (Red ) Vu hoes futons. a r enta tu s (Black) var. g . d u s s ec sa tu . (Cross) var . (Yezo) 7 F x o es are plentiful on most of the islands . The only places u h iri nk I k rm I h i ri k E a a . C n ot S . an Raik ok e witho t them are i , , I Ush ish i r Mak anru ru B I I I and the Black rothers Is . The foxes on the - central Kurils are said to have been placed thereon by the natives, who brought them from the north . The winter skins of m these ani als are remarkably fine, and there is a large proportion and m n n of cross silver grey a o gst them, The foxes of Ku ashir and Y or et u U . p, and probably also of rup , are the same as those of Yezo b u t The red variety predominates, occasionally cross and grey ones m et not are with ; the skins, however, are so fine as those of the central islands .

La d - o e — r le i F n tt r Lu t onectes whi te y . airly common on Kunashir Ye toru m a U and p . It y , perhaps, also exist on rup, but has not been seen by the writer. M i — a r t n . Mu ste br r la a chyu a . a te ela m us M s la m . Japanese sable, p F and Yet or u ound on Kunashir p only . There are probably m M also so e other members of the artin tribe . Ro — u d ents H Le a s F Yetor . are, p ound on Kunashir and p

It turns white in winter . i r re — Squ ls On the southern islands only. Ra t — u O southern islands only. Lemmi n — On Paramush ir n o Sh umsh ir u g , O ek tan, and the gro nd

sm n in places is honeycombed by these all a imals .

MAR N MA A S I E MM L .

- — E F n u e otter nh d r a m ar i na . S a . y ound all alo g the K ril chain . F — ta ri a r ei na N s s u r ea l u . S . O umbers are seen off the coa t , “ ” t h e Sred noi Kaik ok e M s a re but three rookeries of , , and u hir now all but deserted .

- — Sea li on t r i a s eri E l . . 0 a tell . xists in arge numbers There 2 N N THE K RI I AN 8 OTES O U L SL DS. are b i k th e b a eighteen reed ng roo eries on islands, where proba ly hundred thousand of these animals haul up during the summ hr

Black ea - li on — ta r i a i lles ii i S 0 g p ( ). The writer noticed what he considered to be this species on Urup and the Black l Brothers . They were in limited numbers, and were hau ed up

steller i . n amongst th e 0. They were disti guishable by their s ff h o k hank . maller size, di erently shaped head , and their u , bark

It is possible, however, they may belong to the Australian species , which is said to reach Japan . H i — a r Sea l Phoca e i tu li na C . . . ommon on all the islands Ceta cea —R B aleena a oni ca F . ight Whale , j p . ound off shore, but

does not frequent the coasts and bays . H Me a ter v r sa i i s a e b l . umpback whale, g p

- Seeba ldi u s su l hu r eus. Sulphur bottom whale, p

Fin- back whale .

- l Ra chi a nectes la ucu s. Grey back wha e, g l All common, particu arly about the coasts of the southern

islands. Del hi ni d oe — lobi oc l G e ha lus sc oron . . am/m p Black fish , p Kil er h Or ca w ales, P “ robably two species . They are usually seen in schools of

i l 6 8 about a dozen . The spec es with the very high dorsa fin ( to

feet) , with a broad base , is the most common . The writer witnessed an attack made by a school of killers on b k “ ” a large hump ac whale and her calf. In order to protect the ” b ack swimmin calf, the cow whale kept it on her , g so that the

- young one was only about two thirds submerged . When the whale a m was last seen she ppeared to be al ost exhausted, barely moving u thro gh the water. The whale appeared to mak e no defence . P or oi se — Del hi nu s p . p

a There are at least three kinds of these nimals, which are fairly

u s . plentif l, more particularly in the vicinity of the southern island ” The puffing pig is common along the whole chain . The writer has never seen the walrus (Rosm a ra s Obesa s) about

l Avatch a . the Kuri s, or even south of Bay, on the Kamchatka coast H A stray one, however, was taken some years ago near akodate, in s Tsugaru Strait, which must have passed along the Kuril from the FAUNA AND FL RA O . 2 9

- north . There are no suitab le feeding grounds for this animal on the Kuril Islands . n l l oe r a t t Occasio al y the smal grey seal (fl ), which frequen s the

t - O nor h western part of the khotsk, gets down to the Kurils on the -fl oes ice , but it does not remain . V AUNA — A IF . Bird life on the Kuril Islands is represented by about a hundred and sixty or a hundred and seventy species , u l the greater proportion of which is fo nd on the southern is ands , n an Yetoru Ku ashir d p, both of which are well wooded, and in close U n proximity to Yezo . The islands to the northward of rup , bei g

f - d e w . without trees, have very land bir s Amongst those to be found , t fl t h er m t R wag ails and y ca c s are the e e common . avens and f peregrine alcons are seen on nearly every island, and eagles are to l be found on most . The willow grouse, which is very plentifu on m f r E ma a kar . Ka chatka, has been noticed as down the chain as The Kuril Islands are used but to a very limited extent as a

- migratory route. Long tailed ducks, and divers in considerable s n numbers, however, are to be seen in early pri g, making their way

- t o . s their northern breeding grounds along this route A few swan , d k m Li mi colce geese, and uc s, and a li ited number of the also pass

v - along this way, together with a ery few land birds . The vast majority of the birds which migrate to the more i n Sa h alin i s northern regions spring take the g route , which over w k a wooded country , with numerous s amps , lagoons, and la es . Probably three - fourths of the bird s which are to be found on s the islands in sum mer leave as winter approache . n n It The followi g is a list of the birds freque ting the Kurils.

m - is probably most co plete as regards the sea fowl . ’ The num b ers refer to Blakiston and Pryer s Catalogue of the ” s Tra n sa cti ons o the Asi a ti c Soci et Birds of Japan , publi hed in the f y 882 s of J ap a n in 1 . The birds with no numbers again t them are ’

. n P s . not in B a d . list

’ 1 Mor mon ci r r ha tnm uffi n u ( ) , tufted p . Very plentif l all m along the Kurils in su mer. This bird begins to arrive at the M m n i slands about first week in ay . Co me ces laying about

1 w n m N s 5 . s . June Lays one egg , white, ith very fai t arking e ts in

o s f h le , burrowed out of the soft ground on the tops of clif s and

s s s islet . Leaves the island oon after the middle of September. 2 Mormon cor ni cula tu ni uffin U ( ) , horned p . sually found in A 30 NOTES ON THE KURIL ISL NDS.

pairs ; seldom seen south of the Black Brothers . Though not n uncommon on the central and northern isla ds, they are nowhere e u uffin numerous . The gg is like that of the t fted p , and its habits are similar.

4 P ha ler i s cri sta tella . ( ) , crested auk

P ha lcr is m sta cca s . (5) y , whi kered auk Large numbers of both these auks on all the islands to the northward of Urup . u They arrive towards the end of April . Lay one p re white egg , beneath boulders and coarse shingle, and in crevices of the rocks

- n ff n . a d cli s, preferri g situations not much above high water line u They comm ence to lay about the middle of J ne .

Pha ler i s si tta cu la . F p , parrot auk ound on the central and

e in . northern islands, gen rally pairs

Pha ler i s u si lla l auk . (6) p , east This bird I have some and doubts about, think the specimens attributed to this species are

P m sta cea . im mature . y

- 8 B r a ch r ham hns anti u a s d . F ( ) y p q , grey hea ed auk ound all w m along the Kurils ; al ays seen in s all flocks of eight or nine .

9 B r a ch r ham hns ki ttli tz i . ( ) y p , Kittlitz guillemot

10 Ur i a ca r bo . ( ) , sooty guillemot m u r r i a colu ba . U , pigeon g illemot This bird is ve y s n common on all the islands . Lays one peckled egg u der rocks

i n . and boulders on the beaches , about the m ddle of Ju e ta m Ur i a m a r m or a . m . , marbled guille ot Is not co mon d ifli eult i t u A very shy bird , and somewhat to obtain , as us ally d w ives at the flash of a gun, and ill, if wounded , remain under

water and die there . Ur i a tr oi lé m n l 1 1 . ( ) , co mo gui lemot ’ 1 2 Ur i a br ii nni chi B r unni ch s u m P n ( ) , g ille ot . lentiful all alo g and the islands . These birds arrive about the end of April, leave u 8 mm n towards the end of September. About J ne they co e ce b u t r not n u to lay, thei eggs are ple tif l until the middle of the

mo n f and o s . nth . The si gle egg is laid on the bare ledges of clif s r ck f m d n n u The eggs are pyri or in shape, and excee i gly fa cifully colo red , i o u . the grounds be ng green , bl e, yellow, white, grey, etc , with br wn

nd k and No . a blac specks blotches . two eggs appear to be alike k They are particularly good eating, the flavour being not unli e the

eggs of the plover . E Mr . N of Prib ilov lliot, in his Ornithological otes the Islands , FAUNA AND FLORA. 3 1

“ i n s n describing thi bird, says that they feed entirely upon mari e t ” ” “ crus acea, that he never found fish in their craws, and that the f ” M young are ed by the disgorging parents . y observations d o not k O h m confirm these remar s . I have ften seen t em capture s all fi sh 2 about inches in length , and fly away with them in their bills to their young . i f b Once while gather ng eggs on Avos rock , I ound , laid eside e n each gg that was just on the point of bei g hatched out, one of l l these sma l fish , evident y placed there in readiness for the young chick .

13 Fr a ter cu la monocer a ta - ll F ( ) , horned bill gui emot . ound l off about Shikotan and the smal islands the east coast of Yezo , where it b reeds in large numbers . I have not noticed this b ird even Y ru so far north as eto p . I 5 P od i ce s ( ) p grebes . A few of these birds have been n d l noticed on the lagoo s and pon s of the is ands, but the species was not ascertained .

18 - Col mbu s a r cti cu s . ( ) y , black throated diver 1 s e 9 Col ni bu s temtr i on a li s . ( ) y p , red throated diver Very

o m m n c mmon in early spring , when nu bers are to be seen aki g their on Paramush i r way northwards along the islands . A few breed a and Sh mshir.

- 18 Col onbns a da msi b . ( 5) y , great white illed diver A few seen . 20 C nu s m u si cu s ( ) yg , hooper swan . A few frequent the

N Y ru islands . oticed on eto p in winter. 22 Anser sa etnm scr r i r ostr i s . ( ) g , bean goose

24 i - f a lb r ons . ( ) f , white ronted goose

25 i - on nu tns . ( ) , lesser fronted goose

26 c noi d es . ( ) yg , Chinese goose ’ 28 ha tchi nsi H ( ) , utchins goose . i n r i ca ns . g , Brent goose All these geese are to be fou nd as visitors either to the northern

t r b ut s l m s . or sou he n islands , they are never een in arge nu ber A A ha tc i n Ushishir few . h si have been noticed breeding on and

k rm s o n E a a . A ne t with six eggs and another with seven were f u d h l th M s 20t . on the 6 of ay . Young one were found on the of June

30 Ana s b oscha s m . ( ) , allard duck

31 z norh ncha k ll u . ( ) o y , dus y ma ard d ck 32 NOT ON THE K I ES UR L ISLANDS.

35 An a s enelo e . ( ) p p , widgeon

3 a cnta l k . ( 6) , pintai duc

3 cr ecca . ( 7) , teal

3 a lca ta f . ( 9) f , alcated teal

42 str e er a ll u . ( ) p , gadwa d ck

43 Fu li nla m a r i la . ( ) g , scaup duck

45 Fa li a la cr i stata . ( ) g , tufted duck On the Southern Kurils and Shikotan . i c 48 Fu li ula hi str i on a . ( ) g , harlequin duck Abundant along

l . h as all the Kuri s, where it breeds The writer not been able to J 1 888 l s find the eggs, but in une, , captured a fema e with everal young ones, which were but a day or two old . In August these du cks as semble in flocks of many hundreds . They are fond of l basking on the rocks along the shore. When in and up the stream s b ut they are nearly always seen in pairs , when on the sea they are invariably found in flocks .

Fu i u la la ci a li s - u k 50 l . u ( ) g g , long tailed d c This d ck is very u n plentif l in early spring, when it is found to be maki g its way

n - s in . n northwards , to its breedi g ground the Arctic An occasio al s s l traggler get eft behind, and is seen on the islands in the summer.

52 Fnli ata nsca l . ( ) g f , ve vet scoter 5 F li a t i an b 3 u a a mer c a . ( ) g , American scoter A few reed on the r n no ther islands . ’ telle i 5 1 Soma ter i a s r . o ( ) , Steller s western duck Occasi nally n found on the islands during wi ter.

- P d f Som a ter i a o nigr a acific ei er . A e w of these have

s t S been een about the most nor hern islands in early pring.

55 Mcr a s ca stor . ( ) g , goosander

56 Mer u s ser r a tor m . b ( ) g , erganser Both these reed on the

Yetoru . Kurils. Obtained on p in winter l i cu s 8 Pha la cr ocor a x e a . ( 5 ) p g , resplendent shag

5 P ha la cr ocor a a: bi cr i sta tu s . ( 9) , barefaced shag

Pha la cr ocor a x shag .

- m E The shags are the first sea birds to com ence laying . ggs a s for s obtained on the 1 5th of M y . They are very mall the ize of the bird, of a long oval shape , chalky white, with a slight

F s . bluish tinge . ive or six is the u ual number laid Some of the m shags re ain about the islands throughout the winter, but the

E K RI I AN 34 NOTES ON TH U L SL DS.

Not u l ncommon ; a few probably breed on the is ands, for the writer shot a specim en with fully developed egg inside .

- b 6 Di omed ea d er o a ta . (7 ) g , flesh billed black al atross ’

7 br a ch u r a . ( 7) y , Steller s albatross ’

8 ni ri es And ob in s . (7 ) g p , albatross

s b ut All the e are common throughout the summer, they do not breed on the islands . m 9 Fu lma r u s a ci cns P . (7 ) p fi , acific ful ar This bird, which is of d un a ark slate colour all over, is fo d in large numbers all along u n s the Kurils, but more partic larly about the ce tral i lands . It u d b u t b il s no nest, lays its one white egg on the grassy tufts and

’ d lifl s le ges of the c . The egg is probably the best of all the sea ’ o s f wl , and is equal to that of the domestic fowl in flavour. Professor Elliott describes the fulmar of the Prib ilov Islands r i est F. l ci d r ea l ( g a a li s E ge si ) as one of the laying birds . The u u th e la test fi f lmar of the K rils is one of laying birds, the rst 1 eggs being found about June 5 . They are not plentiful until a n week later . Gatheri g the eggs of this bird is not altogether m k a pleasant operation . The ful ar has literally to be knoc ed off

n ff — u her egg, and when climbi g the cli s for them generally abo t the time one ’ s head is on a level with the setting bird— she will

n - n invariably eject, to a distance of one or two feet, a stro g smelli g, ’ un u and p gent, oily liq id , which bespatters one s clothes face , often t n n n s n get i g into the eyes and causi g co siderable marti g . Fa lm a r i s la ci a li s r od cr si u h g g , fulmar . This f lmar, w ich is so m n co mon in the Beri g Sea, is comparatively rare on the Kurils . A

m et s few are to be with about the central and northern i lands . ’ 80 P r ocella r i a lcu corr hoa ( ) , Leach s petrel . 8 1 nr ca ta t . ( ) f , grey pe rel n Both these petrels breed o the Kurils . They lay one pure m - m . no n ilk white egg about the middle of June They ake est , but d eposit their egg beneath boulders and in crevices of the rocks f m and clif s, in co pany with the auks and pigeon guillemots . 8 1 r P a nns r i se a s . ( 5) fi g , sooty shea water

- 83 tenni r ostr i s w . ( ) , slender billed shear ater u s l The former is fo nd about the southern i lands, and the atter u n m u abo t the orthern ore partic larly . There are probably other

l lb s s l species a so . A atros es and hearwaters, a though common th e s s l i s b throughout ummer in the e at tude , do not reed here . FA UNA AND FLORA. 35

They probably visit some of the small islands in or near the tropics n duri g the winter months for that purpose . 84 Cha r a d r i u s u lou s E r ( ) f , aste n golden plover. 8 5 E i a li ti s ca nti a na ( ) g , Kentish plover.

86 la ci d a - ( ) p , sand plover . 87 cu r oni ca ( ) , little ringed plover .

88 mon oli ca M - ( ) g , ongolian sand plover. 91 S u a tar ola helveti ca l ( ) q , grey p over. 92 Str e si las i nter r es t ( ) p p , urnstone .

93 H em a to u s oscu la ns - ( ) p , oyster catcher. 94 Te ta nu s i nca nu s d ( ) , grey san piper . 95 lotti s k ( ) g , greenshan . 97 u scu s k ( ) f , redshan . 98 h OO r O us s . ( ) p , green andpiper 99 la r eola nd ( ) g , wood sa piper . 100 Tr i n oi cles h oleu cu s m n ( ) g yp , co mo sandpiper.

1 01 Li mosa la oni ca - ( ) p p , bar tailed godwit . 1 02 br eoi es ( ) p , godwit. 104 Tri n c E a r assi r ostr i s . ( ) g , astern knot 105 ci nclus l ( ) , dun in . 1 8 i 0 su bm nu ta . ( ) , stint

1 10 Ca li d r i s a r ena r i a . ( ) , sanderling

1 1 2 P ha la r o u s h er bor eu s - ( ) p yp , red necked phalarope . 11 3 u li ca r i u s ( ) f , grey phalarope . 1 1 ll n c 0 a ci n mm 7 Ga i a o s ol a . ( ) g p , co on snipe 1 1 li nu a 9 a l l . ( ) g , jack snipe 1 s 1 6 a u str a li s an . ( ) , Australi nipe m So e of these species no doubt breed on the islands, but in m li ited numbers .

1 20 Nu meni u s li nea tu s . ( ) , curlew 1 2 str i s l 3 c a no us a u a l . ( ) y p , Austra ian curlew m 124 va r i e a tu s . ( ) g , whi brel w m Both curle and whi brel feed largely on berries , which are nd m 1 a . 8 91 very plentiful on the Kurils Kamchatka In Septe ber, ,

u r s s the writer shot several which were f ll of ber ie . When thu

u - feeding they are deliciou s eating . G lls also are berry eaters at m and s this ti e . Geese ptarmigan feed on berries to a con iderable n l n n ul n exte t, and teal a so I have fou d i d gi g in the luxury . 1 d n Y ru 4 r s m o esta . o t d 3 H e od i a e o . ( ) , great egret Seen p Islan N T E R 36 NOTES O H KU IL ISLANDS.

T tr a stes m u tu s 2 e . ( ) , common ptarmigan o a l us i F N 1 5 La u s b . ( 65) g p , w llow grouse ound on the orthern

Kurils .

T s E - 1 59 u r tur ela ste . S ( ) g , astern turtle dove Only on the outhern

Kurils . k 163 Cu cu lu s ca nor us . r u ( ) , cuc oo Obse ved on the So thern

Kurils. 1 P i c s a or 6 u m . ( 7) j , great spotted woodpecker 1 68 m i nor t k ( ) , lesser spot ed woodpec er.

And o pr bably others on the Southern Kurils only .

1 82 Hi r u nd o . ( ) swallow Southern Kurils .

18 6 C selu s a ci cu s - m ( ) yp p fi ,white ru ped swift .

18 Cheet r a d cu ta l - u ca u a . ( 7) , need e tailed swift Probably the sand - martin and also the b lack - chinned martin are t o be found also .

18 8 Ca r i mu l us ota ka . ( ) p g j , goatsucker 189 Corvu s a onensi s J ( ) j p , apan crow .

190 cor one . ( ) , carrion crow

1 91 cora x . ( ) , raven ' C r n C J a onensi s . co o e . p and on the southern islands only, but m in 0. cor a is to be found on every island the chain , always in pairs . s n Breed early, the young being fou d about the middle of June .

1 97 Nu ci r a a ca r oca ta ctcs . F ( ) f g y , nutcracker ound on Ketoi , m m n where there is a small clu p of pine trees, the only ti ber o U f any of the islands north of rup . It probably also requents the southern islands .

- 203 tu rni a rr ho en s k l . N ( ) S py g y , red chec ed star et oticed on

Yetorup .

207 C a no ti la c a nom ela na . ( ) y p y , Japanese blue flycatcher

208 Mu sci ca a la ti r ostr i s n . ( ) p , brow flycatcher 208 si ber i ca b ( 5 , Siberian flycatcher ; and pro ably h s several other species of fly catc er .

21 6 P a r u s a lu str i s Ja oni cu s . ( ) p p , marsh tit

21 8 Da r i u s b b l P . a ter ( ) , Japan tit ; and pro a y and

mi nor . P .

- 220 Acreclu la ca ud a ta . ( ) , long tailed tit 2 i tta eu r O cea u ra len si s b b (22 ) S p , nuthatch ; and pro a ly also

lbi r ons. S. a f

226 Anthus a oni cus J n . ( ) j p , apa pipit FAUNA AND FLORA. 37

22 Anthus cer vimus - ( 7) , red throated pipit. 229 Mota ci lla a oni ca J l ( ) j p , apanese wagtai . 229 lu ens k ( 5) g , Kamchat an wagtail . 230 boa r u la ( ) , grey wagtail . 230 B ud tes a vu s tai ea nu s ( 5) y fl , green wagtail . 238 Lo u tel o hotensi s c s la c . P ( ) , grasshopper warbler robably also Ph os o s b r i s P wanthoclr s P cor o ll c u o ea l . a . na tu s y p , y , , and some

others . 2 45 Tr o loel tes umi atu s J ( ) g y f g , apan wren . 24 ku ri lensi s l 5 . ( 5 , Kuri Island wren

- 252 Er i thacu s ca lli o e . ( ) p , Siberian ruby throated robin i c 254 P r a ti ncola i nd a . ( ) , Indian stonechat i tar i a 256 Monti cola sol . ( ) , rock thrush 2 r si s eki nensi s k l 66 Ala ucla a ven . ( ) p , Japan s y ark a i ca l 266 on . ( 5 j p , small sky ark i s 26 a l estr . ( 7) p , shore lark ’ Yarrel s d This bird has not been collected, but in British Bir s it is said to occur on the Kurils .

268 Ember i z a ci o si s . ( ) p , meadow bunting

269 u ca ta . ( ) f , painted bunting 2 1 r s a n u ti c . ( 7 ) , rustic bunti g

2 2 er sonata . ( 7 ) p , masked bunting

2 3 a u r eola - n ( 7 ) , yellow breasted bunti g. 2 7 essoensi s n ( 7 ) y , yesso bu ting ; and probably some others . 28 ( 1) P asser sparrow .

285 Fr i n i lla s i nu s . ( ) g p , siskin 2 ha 88 Leu coSti cte br unn ei nuc . ( ) , ground finch

‘ - 28 9 Ur a u s san u i nolentus . ( ) g g , long tailed rose finch 291 P i ni cola enu clea tor b Ca r ( ) , pine gros eak ; and probably od a cu s r oseus Coccothr austes ou l a ri s O er son a tu s p , g , and . p on the l southern is ands . ’ 295 Loxi a a lbi c entr i s Swinh oe s croSsb ill ( ) , .

29 P r r hu a or i enta li s E b ullfinch 6 l . ( ) y , astern

2 r b llfin h 96 osa cea u c . ( 5) , rosy Oriental 296 r i sei oent i s ku r i lensi s u O u ( 5) g r , K ril riental b ll

finch .

299 S r ni u m u r a lense r u escens . ( ) y f , owl

- 300 Asi o a cci i tr i nu s . ( ) p , short eared owl 38 NOTES ON THE KURI I AN L SL DS.

- 301 Asi o otu s . P Sco o Ja oni cu s . ( ) , long eared owl robably also p p

’ A r sa étu s 306 ui la ch . ( ) q y , golden eagle The writer saw on Yetoru k b e l O p what he too to this eag e, where he bserved both the following 30 Ha li aetus a lbi cillu s — l ( 7) , white tai ed eagle.

la i cu s - 308 e . ( ) p g , northern sea eagle

309 P a neli on ha li a et u s . ( ) , osprey

- 310 Mi lvu s m elan oti s . ( ) , black cared kite

3 13 B uteo a oni cu s J . ( ) j p , apan buzzard

- 318 Acci iter ni su s . ( ) p , sparrow hawk

321 H otri or chi s su bbu teo . ( ) yp , hobby

322 cesa lon . ( ) , merlin

323 Fa lco er e r i nus . ( ) p g , peregrine falcon 324 Ci rcus c a n eus ( ) y , hen harrier . m It Of the Accip i tr es the Peregrine falcon is the most co mon . m i s found throughout the whole chain of islands . The others ostly

s m frequent the southern island . There are probably ore members

s of thi group than are mentioned in this list . R T S — m EP ILE . The writer is under the i pression he has seen a

m Yet or u s all lizard in p, but he has not noticed reptiles elsewhere u and l on the K rils, though snakes frogs probab y exist on Kunashir,

they being com mon in the neighbouring land of Yezo.

- F S S. C w I HE , ompared ith other localities , the waters of the ff Kuril Islands do not contain a great many di erent species of fish . In i m u the vicinity of the southern slands, fish are ost plentif l .

At certain seasons the waters teem with fish of the herring family,

- fish whilst cod , halibut, and several kinds of rock are to be found S a l enti all the year round . everal species of Salmonid e are very p f ul k also, vast numbers being ta en both in Kunashir and Yetrou p . The waters ab out the northernmost islands are well stock ed

- fi sh k . u with cod, halibut, roc , etc Cod are much, more plentif l r b slan the e than in the neigh ourhood of the southern i ds, and some of the banks lying off to the north - west of Alaid are frequented by

- fi sh ers f F cod rom San rancisco . The streams of the northern islands are smaller and not so “ ” u a for n s it ble salmon as those of the southern isla ds . The run

of the fish is also shorter, and consequently they are not so l few l plentifu as on the southern memb ers of the chain . A mi es F NA AND F ORA 39 AU L .

away , however, on the Kamchatkan coast, these fish are found in m Yetoru much vaster nu bers even than on p . U The Central Kurils are practically without fish . Between rup fish n and Kh ari mk otan hard ly a is to be caught or see . The water

un n i s m and m aro d these ce tral islands ostly very deep , the botto

o f n either rock boulders or clea sand, on which there is little or

nothing for fish to feed . The following is a list of the fishes noticed by the writer

Fr esh - w a ter Fi shes .

n n Oncorh nchu s tcha w tch a or i enta li s Ki g salmo , y y or

Y ru n Observed on eto p o ly . Oncorh nchu s H a ber i P a ll Salmon, y . B la ki stoni .

P er r i Salmon trout, y . J essoensi s , and some other species , on s the southern i lands .

H - u m Oncor h nchu s r oteu s . mp backed sal on, y p On cor h nchu s la oce ha lu s m y g p , and so e other kinds , on the d northern islan s .

- Sea trout .

- Brook trout . M ountain trout. u B llhead . Ma r i ne Fi shes .

C od C a ctu s f , ( ). H Hi o lossu s f alibut, p p g ( ) . F P leu r onectes lounder,

H Clu ea ha r en us erring, p g , and other species . Iw ashi Clu e Me a nos i c a l t a . , p H o csu s Smelt, yp m

- A h na r r i cha s lu us . Sea wolf, p

R - - - fi sh fi sh . s ock cod, rock , and keep Several kinds , as Iri h

r - Scor cen i d ee a nd Cotti d ce lo d sculpin, sea robins, p . k S u ali N . ot s Shar s, q numerous . The writer has een s eal s and sea- otters taken by a large species of shark near the

islands .

- — Dee sea Fi shes Ou n p three or four occasions, when pulling alo g

Off u - the coasts of the K rils in search of the sea otter, the writer r m n s and n i n found fish which , f o drawi g descriptio s given works 40 NOT ON THE K RI I AN ES U L SL DS.

i cthiolo l on gy , he conc udes belong to species inhabiting the deep sea . ff l At di erent times, a together four specimens were picked up . On a each occasion the fish was in a dying state, lthough apparently

- healthy. One, however, had a clean cut wound on the body. Three P la oclu s er ox and resembled gy f in almost every particular, l 3 . Sco elu s measured 5 feet in ength The other specimen was a p , with oblong body, scaleless large eyes, and rounded caudal. It n lb s 4 30 . measured about feet in le gth , and weighed about

When cooked, the flesh of these fish was of the consistency ofjelly . NV RT RAT S — Cr a bs I E EB E . of several kinds are common , some of

- fl ured which are particularly well av o . Mussels n the are plentiful all alo g islands, but they are small in Si ze . Clams n are to be found in Shikotan, but I have not oticed

them elsewhere in the Kurils .

Sea - sn i ls — w O L a . Large helks were btained in ittle Kuril Straits

- m by digging into the sand below low water mark . A s aller shell fish of this kind is com mon amongst the seaw eed growing on the

k l . rocks . Periwin les of smal size are abundant Li m ets p of one or two kinds are common , but not plentiful . — S u i d s . q . Two kinds have been taken by the writer

- — Sea u r chi ns . . Vast quantities of these exist They are a

- favourite food of the sea otter .

a - - b - St rfish, sea squirts, sea cucum ers, sea anemones, etc . , are

fairly plentiful . Med u see — ll l . Some bri iantly co oured and elaborately formed ones

are found .

Sa nd - leas f are abundant .

La nd -sna R i ls I noticed on the island of ashan .

s u m on Although oyster are plentif l in so e places the Yezo coast,

n n n s - s I have never see any o the Kuril Isla d . The ear hell Ha li oti s n n i ( ) is commo on Yezo also, but it has not bee not ced by u the writer on the K rils . INSECTs — . The abundance and variety of insect life on the

‘ s f w Kuril Islands is not great . The central island have very e

n s r t n m species . On the northern islands i sect are a her more u erous ; on m m and the southern e bers of the chain, which are well wooded ,

they are fairly abundant .

42 NOT ON THE K RI I AN ES U L SL DS.

F ORA —M L . y notes upon the flora of the islands are very meagre, and, I am afraid, scarcely worth recording . Yetoru U Kunashir, Shikotan, p , and rup are more or less wooded with pines , birch , willow, alder, mountain ash , and other trees and shrubs . There is in places a dense growth of bamboo sa sa grass ( ) ; and umbelliferous plants, nettles, etc . , as high as a u u man, grow in great l xuriance in the g llies and around the bases l ff of the c i s and hills which slope towards the beaches . On the s - - and dunes and beaches above high water mark , coarse grasses ,

- w a kind of wild pea, and a sweet smelling rose gro . The flat n ground in the valleys is usually swampy, and here are to be fou d n several kinds of rushes, mosses , grasses , and ma y kinds of wild

w u flo ers, amongst which I noticed irises, lilies, daisies, b ttercups,

u . pinks , dandelions, myosotis, terrestrial orchids, gerani ms, etc l s ferns, sorre , wild celery, a small wild onion, etc . Several kind of berries grow on most of the islands; Red currants grow w ild

b ut u . on Shikotan . The fruit is large , f ll of seeds On Kunashir some of the timber is of fi ne growth ; but on

Yetoru u s U . p it is considerably st nted , whil t on rup it is still more N r U n tr ees o th of rup the o ly are to be found on Ketoi , where there is a small patch of stunted firs on the north side. Some of the smaller islands have no growth of scrub even, but on most i there are generally to . be found some scrub p ne and alder, and occasionally willow. The lower l pes of the hills are usually covered with a thick carpet of mosses and short grasses , amongst which wild flowers are M L . abundant . ichens and mosses occur higher up ushrooms and

- ff m . pu balls are to be found, but they are not com on E — P ALG . robably in no part of the world is there a greater luxuriance of growth of seaw eeds than occurs in the waters of the V Mela nos er mce Kuril Islands . ast forests of p surround every

s Of i land in the chain, the most conspicuous member this group n Ner eoc sti s Lutkea n s of algae bei g y u .

Immense fields of this are found everywhere, some of the i slands being surrounded by an unbroken belt over half a mile in 1 8 . width . It grows in depths up to about fathoms The blades

a - m are about foot wide, composed of a central hollow jointed ste ,

about the size of the little finger, and with a thin frill on either

140 1 50 . side . They sometimes measure or feet in length FAUNA AND FLORA. 4 3

The growth of this seaweed is very rapid . In April there will — only be seen a few ragged stems probably the remains of the ’ — last season s growth reaching the surface of the water ; but by b J the eginning of uly or earlier, vast fields will have made their

th e so appearance everywhere about the coasts, and growth is n f i abundant that, unless the current be run ing with su fic ent force to stretch out the stems and partly take them below the surface, a J boat can scarcely get through . In uly this kelp appears to have u u attained its f ll growth . By the end of August m ch of it has off t o been broken or rotted , and large quantities get drifted out sea or thrown up on the beaches . These kelp beds are the favourite resort of the sea- otter when H l undisturbed . ere he can find abundant food and ife, and sleep “ in comfort in the worst of weather, for the sea will not break on the kelp patches . Melanos er mw l Other species of p are a so abundant, such as Fu cu s vesi cul osu s Ala ri a escu lenta Chor d a r i a a elli or mi s , , fl g f , and Ela chi sta u ci cola Tha la ssi O h llum clothr us f , p y , etc . RHODOSPERMIE — Melobesi a ol m or ha Melobesi a li chenoid es . p y p , , P e son ne li a l . y , etc CHLOROSPERMIE — Clad o hor a u nci a li s Ule a la ti ssi m a . p , , etc. Although there is an abundant supply on the Kurils of the same kind of seaweed (La mi na r i a sa ccha r i n a ) that is gathered on Sa h alin n n the coasts of Yezo and g , pri cipally for shipme t to C hina, it has not yet received any attention . 44 NOTES ON THE K RI I AN U L SL DS.

AT W AT R TID S ETC CLIM E , E HE , E , .

TH E m cli ate of the Kuril Islands is decidedly a moist one, although it cannot be said that the rainfall is large. The spring is cold and boisterous ; during the early part

- i north westerly winds preva l, and there is but little fog. Through out l the latter half the winds are very variable, with occasiona spells of snow, rain, and fog .

-fi eld s F Large ice are brought across the Okhotsk Sea in ebruary , and these become blocked on the South - West Ku rils and east coast Ma of Yezo, and it is sometimes well into y before all the ice has cleared off from this vicinity . Fo g almost constantly prevails throughout the summer, and ,

k - generally spea ing , it is only with a fresh north west wind that ff l l O . it clears entirely at this season The c ear spel s , however, are of short duration . l The autumn is the finest season, bright, c ear, pleasant weather, with westerly winds, this sometimes continuing even until the m N iddle of ovember.

l - l The winter is co d, and north west winds b ow throughout the

r D g eater part of it. uring the winter the writer spent on the Yetor u island of p , there were many fine days when the weather ° w as — 45 — quite warm, the sun in that latitude north having, of course, considerable power. The nights, however, were very cold , u m F altho gh it was seldom the ther ometer fell to zero ahrenheit . The following is a rough sum mary and average of the weather for m - each onth of the year, gathered from log books and notes extending over a period of fifteen years . R NG MONT S M — SP I H . a r ch Sixteen days of west and north

- a . west winds, seven south east, five e st, and three variable Snow

or rain falls on ten days, and two days are foggy. C IMATE WEATH R TI ETc L , E , DES, . 45

— and - Ap r i l. Westerly north westerly w inds prevail during D n n f. the first hal uri g the last half the wi ds are very variable, with

n l . ll freque t ga es Snow or rain fa s on twelve days of this month . Ma — Ma e w y y has an averag of fourteen foggy days, ith eight f . days on which snow or rain alls The winds are very variable , m but southerly and easterly predo inate . Gales are frequent . M T J — R ON S . u ne s m SUMME H Wind very variable , ostly from

- - R u . so th east to south west ain falls on six days, and there are F n d . o O sixteen foggy ays g and rai ften occur together. Some tim es it is difficult to distinguish between a wet fog and a fi ne d rizzling rain. I have experienced a sharp frost on the 6th of ° R h a 4 l Ju as u . 7 ne, at Island , in Lat and a fal of snow some m times occurs in this onth . — J u l . y This is the foggiest month of the year, with an average - k of twenty six days thic weather and six days rain . Light m variable airs and cal s during the greater part of this month . t — It Augu s . is foggy on twenty days and rains on six days of s n this month . Calm and light variable wi ds prevail . N MONT — R T S . e tem ber AU UM H S p . ain falls on ten days of this n l mo th , and there is more or less fog on twe ve days ; but, taken on the whole, the weather is mostly fine and pleasant, westerly winds prevailing . — s October . The wind this month are chiefly from the west

- - d . s south west, west, and north west There are six rainy ay and m little or no fog . It is seldom cal ; as a rule the weather is bright,

and s s n s clear, bracing, with fre h breeze and occasional stro g gale .

r — s a nd n Novem be . The prevailing winds are we terly orth

s . m n we terly The weather is ostly fine , with fresh breezes duri g the first part ; later it becomes more boisterous, and considerable s snow fall . T D em r — s NT R MON S . ec be s d s WI E H . Thi month hows twenty ay

- nd of , , a north westerly, winds three southerly the rest calms and and variable. Snow falls on twelve days, rain on two .

J anu a r — F t - s y ifteen days of nor h westerly wind , three north ,

u - n s fo r north east, and ni e variable or calm . Snow on six day , and

rain one.

Febr u a r — - - y There are twenty two days of north westerly winds ,

- - d two north east, two north , and two south east, uring this month .

Snow falls on sixteen day s . 46 NOT ON THE K RI I AN ES U L SL DS.

— H v l an GALES. ea y ga es are liable to occur at y time of the year, and I doubt if ever any one particular month passes without one or more violent storm s of wind . The majority of the gales

n u - w f fift experienced in these latitudes fi ished p at north est. O y l eight heavy gales , occurring between the middle of Apri and the m - fi v e s iddle of October over several years, I find thirty fini hed at

- - - - north west, eight at south west , three at west south west, three at east, and the rest at other points of the compass. The greatest M m a l J . nu ber took place in y , and the east in une In nearly all

- e e a a i nst the storms which finished at north west, the wind v er d g the n - l su from the south east. When a ga e commenced at south e or ast from any point east of it, it would, as a rule , haul to the

- - s u east, then north east, to north , and north we t, where it wo ld blow itself out . With gales commencing at south , the wind, after n wi th the su n backi g, perhaps, to nearly east, would generally veer

- w - through south and south west, and finish bet een south west and

- - west north west. Some of the storms which occur during the summer and autumn in the vicinity of the South - Western Kurils have the — in characteristics of typhoons fact, are typhoons which have J travelled up the apan coast, their area being no doubt much enlarged, and their force somewhat spent . D n off uring a heavy gale the wi d blows strongest the land . n nar r ow The isla ds being high and , the wind becomes banked up

w v as it ere, and pours o er the mountains and down the gullies n u th e and n with hurricane force , picki g p water in sheets whirli g li es n w ool . it i to , which are blown out to sea with terrific velocity Great care is necessary when running in under the high land n n of these islands duri g a gale . With a saili g vessel, in a moderate i s in breeze, it advisable to pass to windward of an island order w to keep the wind ; but, unfortunately, the windward side is al ays m the foggy side. The high ountains cause the winds to be very i u m b aflfl n . g in the various straits, partic larly the s aller ones

The barometer is of great service in these latitudes, and never n Du n m fails to give warni g of an approaching storm . ri g su mer an abnormally high barom eter for a few days w ill nearly al w ays be o d f m f llowed by a stea y all , cul inating in a gale with heavy rain

- s from south ea tward . — Foe s The con stant fogs in the vicinity of the Kuril Islands IMATE WEATE R TI ET 4 7 O O. L , E , DES, and east coast of Yezo during the summer are no doubt caused by the southerly winds passing first over the warm waters of the Eu r o Shi wo l m (b ack strea ) , and its branch , the Kamchatka currents— the mean sum mer temperature of which is 8 2° —and w then on to the cold water of the Oya Shi o, the temperature of 35° which , along the Kurils, is usually from to m . d r These fogs vary in their nature Someti es they are y , in and which case they usually extend to a considerable height, in calm weather will “ lift ” some 8 0 or 100 feet or more above the

s surface of the sea, leaving it perfectly clear below . At other time u u the fogs are dense and full of moist re, amo nting almost to a i drizzl ng rain . These often reach to a considerable height, and are generally accompanied by a cloudy sky .

Another kind occurs in bands of thick wet fog, which often do not extend to a greater height th an 7 0 or 80 feet above the surface . Above these banks the sun is usually shining from a

l s s - c oudles sky. In such case , by going to the mast head it is O ften possible to see the land at a considerable distance, when from the deck one cannot see much further than the vessel’ s length . The islands are seldom entirely enveloped in fog ; there is t nearly always a clear space on the lee side . Wi h southerly and s - n n outh easterly light wi ds prevailing during the summer mo ths,

n - the orth west sides of the islands are freest from fogs . With a

u - so th west breeze, the fog travels up both sides, and the clear s n - li ht n paces are at the orth east ends . With g westerly, orth

r westerly, and northe ly winds , the fog will lie against the north

of - west coasts the islands, whilst the south east sides will be clear ;

m th e ' fo but with fresh breezes fro these quarters , g is all blown P nd m a l . away into the acific, the at osphere becomes c ear all round

Fo s - s g in trata like band indicates clearing weather.

- .W m un n can hen the tops of the o tai s be seen , a change of wind or weather is often foreshown by the formation of small clou ds on n the peaks . These clouds will i variably be formed first on that

s H s ide from which the wind is coming. eavy caps on the peak

denote the approach of bad weather. r u Owing to fog, unce tain currents , and nsurveyed waters , the u s navigation of the K ril I lands presents , to those who do not know h ffi n . t em, many di culties , accompanied by considerable a xiety 48 NOTES ON THE KURIL ISLANDS.

Those , however, who are familiar with the islands find com paratively little trouble . The deep water with which they are mostly surrounded enab les them to be closely approached without u risk . The large fields of kelp which grow abo t all the islands, 1 5 m in depths up to fatho s, is a warning that the land is not far off - . The roarings of the sea lions on their rookeries ; the cry of the kittiwake gulls on certain points and cliffs ; the flights of of thousands of guillemots others ; the presence of flocks of auks ,

u ffi ns u m p , f l ars, and other birds which are known to frequent certain localities or to be peculiar t o certain islands ; the sm ell of ’ - u m the sea lions rookeries, and also of the s lphur fumes fro the n off n volca oes, which are wafted to the ship ; the prese ce of a tide ’ m n rip , and a y other little things, all serve to show the vessel s n positio , and help to guide her to her destination .

When close in shore under the volcanoes of these islands , a ’ f n m vessel s compasses are liable to be af ected . That mou tain asses ’ are liable to influence a ship s compass a mile or two out at sea has been questioned ; but there is no doubt of the fact of the n f sa m f m .o co pass bei g a fected when within , y , half a ile the shore

v i n the vicinity of some of the olcanoes . This is particularly

- s Yetoru marked at the north ea t end of p, the Black Brothers, the

- i u h i r nd s S m s a . outh west end of , other places I m ay here mention a peculiar phenomenon which I saw one night off Yetoru — m n in the month of September, the coast of p so ethi g ’ i n Rus s M n similar to which is described Clarke sell novel aroo ed . ’ f- s m 4 1 88 5 About hal pa t nine o clock on the night of Septe ber , ,

n fe w - Of Yetoru on when withi a miles of the south west end p,

P s — sk n r the acific ide the y bei g clouded over, and the night ve y

l s u - m — a dark, with a ight o th west wind and so ewhat rough sea

r a bright gla e was seen to the southward, and appeared to be p

roachin . n p g the vessel At first, in the dista ce, it looked like n s bright moo light hining through a rift in the clouds, but as it

m n u As was within four days of new oo , that co ld not be . it fi tful n approached , which it did at a considerable rate, in a darti g m manner, it appeared to be in the form of a lu inous cloud, about in n — a i ni a 1 00 yards or so exte t sort of gigantic g s f tu u s. This rem arkable cloud of light was anxiously watched by w u en those on deck , who, ith a certain amo nt of disquietude , spe lated as to what effect such an uncanny - looking thing would have

5 0 NOTES ON THE KURIL ISLANDS.

m n it is i possible for a boat to live in them , and a saili g vessel requires a fr esh br eeze i n order to keep steerage way and get ’

. b u t s s through With a light breeze, a ves el s sail and rudder are b u t u se sh e of little to her, for is carried along hither and thither

n w u and n by the curre t, hirled ro nd rou d , utterly helpless, in F one s s n s r n r n . of the e eethi g, wi li g, oari g rips ortunately, the tendency is to set the ship away from the shore rather than a tow rds it. “ N n - n N D avigati g Lieutena t eville , in the China Sea irectory,

- H M Cor m or a nt S . w n : . has the follo i g note on one of these tide rips . m for P t ade this channel ( ico or Kunashir S rait), but, when close

to , observed a line of heavy breakers extending right across . She n Eturu n the stood nearer the island of p, in the hopes of findi g ss b u t N m on not ' ossib le a pa age, in vain . ight co ing , it was p to e n v rify the fact of its bei g shoal, but the sea broke perpendicularly

2 - 0 to 25 and an . feet high , unlike y tide ripple

- . no This , however, was a tide rip There is shoal , but a con sid erab le Of w depth ater in this strait .

s m m s n These rip , although they so eti e exte d a considerable

s n as u s ea m a di ta ce , are, a r le, not very wide . The on both sides y

m r i s d be perfectly s ooth, whilst in the p, e pecially at its e ge, it is r n m n n in th own into boili g, foa ing, swirli g waves and breakers, risi g

s r hort high seas from eve y direction .

r s s n The nearer the rip , the g eater appear to be the tre gth of the

m On s h s strea . several occasion the writer as had the greate t

f u t i n in n s v n di fic l y avoid g bei g drawn into the e rips, after ha i g

n u n - u n approached earer than was pr dent, in a fast hunti g boat p lli g

r n five ea s a d a paddle . Thes e rips are usu ally at their worst about the tim e of new

m n d - an n n s . and full oo , after easterly and orth easterly wi d They a r e al w ays intensified where a current of considerable depth strikes

s d w u and m m m a hoal or le ge ith abr pt sides, at the sa e ti e eets

w - u off U u in Sre dnoi t ith a cross c rrent, as both ends of r p, Strai , n and i other places .

r t n - in Seve al hun i g boats have been capsized these rips, and all d hands drowne . Cu r r en ts — w The Oya Shi o, which is the Arctic current, sets along the east coast of Kamchatka and down the Pacific side of

il sl t n - the Kur I ands, hen alo g th e south east coast of Yezo, and ID 5 1 C IMATE WEATHER T ETC. L , , ES,

on Ni h on s Kink asan w t t al g the p coa t to , here it mee s wi h the w m r hi m r m i e and ar Ku o S wo co ing f o the opposite d r ction, either mi ngles wi th its waters or sinks beneath the su rface and continu es i ts n u n e i s m m t as course as an under cur rent. Its i fl e c so eti es fel far s u Inu b o e e m n r l o th as y Saki , wh re, in the o th of Ap i , to the n w th e m ur h as n u orth ard of the cape, te perat e of the sea bee fo nd ° ° to 42 2 g be as agains t 6 to the eastward of it . Throu hout the s u mmer the Oya Shi wo appears to be coldes t at the surface along i w i ts m n i n the Kur l Islands, here te perature I have fou d to be , ° ° A Ma 33 to m u m u us 3 5 pril , in y , fro J ne to iddle of A g t, ° ° to h r Th e m o 37 42 Fa . and from that ti e to end of Oct ber, to n i s in a r e w : r reaso s for th , I venture to th k, as follo s The A ctic ’ u r n n u - s w r r n s c r e t, flowi g to the so th we t a d through Be i g Strait and n h as i ts s w e alo g the coast of Kamchatka, colde t at r deep n r a i r u t o be eath the su f ce, and th s colder water does not get b o ght the top un ti l it meets w ith obstructions lik e islands and the cross u n w n m u u ons x c rre ts flowing bet ee the . Where no s ch obstr cti e ist, o r nl to m n as m n m n o y a s all exte t, , for exa ple, alo g the Ka chatka

and as s a nd Ni h on r e coast the co t of Yezo p , the su face wat r of this rr n is m cu e t several degrees war er . m m a m a su mm r As confir ing this theory, I y ention that l st e w n on n and n he a voyage to the Beri g Sea Arctic Ocea , the

s n M w n w r v s . o s e . w i la ds of St atthe and St . La re ce e e i ited B th the

s s in w n w e r m b u t i land were enveloped thick fog he app oached the , their near presence w as indi cated by a su dden fall in the tempera

° ture of the w ate r of from 7 to Here the colder w ater from below had evidently been brought to the surface by m eeting with the su bm erged p ortions of th es e s n n m i la ds . Thi s band of colder surface water did not exte d ore

n m s m s tha a few ile fro the hore . fact w n t sl n s The of the Oya Shi o, in the vici i y of the Kuril I a d ,

n m u um n t r t o bei g at its war est in the a t , is attribu able pa tly the — tem perature of the air being then m u ch higher the sun hav ing — considerable power from there being little or no fog and partly t o r w s n r w n ur the f esh esterly breeze which the p evail , hich at ally drive some of the warm er w ater of the Okhotsk Sea into it . ’ The Oya Shiw o varies i n extent and velocity at d ifl e rent Dur n ns I a s o . seaso . n wi nter the cur rent i s w ider and l o str nger i g

um - r s one n e r u the s mer its speed is about three qua ter to k ot p ho r, 5 2 NOTES ON THE KURIL ISLANDS. but occasionally its velocity is nearly doubled by north - easterly d win s and other causes . The Oya Shiwo has been said to take its origin in the north

s n u we ter part of the Sea of Okhotsk, whence it flows in two c rrents , one n Sa h alin down the easter coast of g , the other down the western m u n P vi d e shores of Ka chatka, and thro gh the Kurils i to the acific ( ’ C n R n s on C aptai A . . Brow paper the urrents of the Japanese ” h A s n s . Tr a nsa cti ons o t e si a ti c Soci et o J a an I la d , vol f y f p , u ns n April, A c rrent of co iderable stre gth does set to the so Sa h alin b ut i s uthward along the g coast, it not part of the Oya n Shiwo . So far as my experie ce goes, I have not found a current setting down the western coast of Kamchatka and through the K th e P m n s . urils into acific , but, to a li ited exte t, rather the rever e

A vessel on the Okhotsk Sea side of the Kurils, if out of the imm ediate influence of the tides running backwards and forwards s through the various strait , will always be set to the northward or

n - u m f n orth eastward d ring cal s, or when the winds are not su ficie tly s t un rong to counteract or deflect this current, which , as a rule , r s

1 m i n - u at the rate of about 0 iles twenty fo r hours . The temperature h 5 ° 6° of t is current is some or higher than the Oya Shiwo .

D n m n t - uring the wi ter onths, when or h westerly winds prevail, a surface current is naturally created acro ss the Okhotsk Sea towards

n s for r the Kuril Isla ds, and thi accounts the la ge quantities of driftwood piled up on the beaches of the north - western s ides of

' - s s as as fi eld s ss . the i land . well for the ice which are driven acro n n u s The wi d is the chief, if not the o ly, factor in prod cing thi i u . s w c rrent It not constant like the Oya Shi o , and ceases when

the winds cease . ( 53 )

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EACH I SLAND AND THE STRAITS TW N T BE EE HEM .

NAS R KU HI , the first of the Kurils commencing from the south

s f we tern end o the chain , extends far into the wide bay, the shores C of which form the eastern coast of the island of Yezo, between apes

Sirotok o Noi sh af. w s n and Yezo Strait, hich separates this i la d

z i s 8 1 6 . o ff from Ye o, from to miles wide At its narrowest part,

- s i s n the south west end of Kuna hir, it much congested by sa d s n banks, which are continually shifting . The strait have bee

su n fairly well rveyed, but the isla d of Kunashir has not yet m received uch attention .

649 2 1 6 This island is miles long, and from about to miles wide, an m d has an area of about 4 44 square iles . m 14 5 There is a per anent population of about 7 , which is largely m increased during the summer months by fisher en, who resort to n m it for the capture of herri g, salmon trout, and sal on . V m The only settlement of any size is the illage of To ari , at the

- s d head of the bay of that name, at the south west end of the i lan .

fi shin - m There are various g stations along the coast, and so e houses

- m R u M at the sulphur ines of Shishiki , at the foot of o se ountain , m towards the iddle of the island . These sulphur deposits are now practically exhausted . u There are no harbours on K nashir, and the coast on both Keram oi n sides is rocky. The southern point, Cape , is a low arrow u s n tong e of land extending some 6 mile in a southerly directio .

Moimoto - s r m n Cape , the north eastern point of the i land, is te i ated

s u - n u f by a high q are looki g bl f , which at a distance looks like

m s n n an islet ; it is , however, joined to the ain i la d by a arrow , u i n m s low sandy neck. A dangero s reef, so e places awash , extend 4 H I ND 5 NOTES ON T E KUR L ISLA S. off this cape for a considerable distance in a north - easterly n directio . The north - eastern portion of Kunashir is laid down on the 5 m u Admiralty charts or 6 iles too far so th . s n l The chief feature of this i la d is its nob e mountain, called on ’ n P b u t n h - . C a charts St Antho y s eak , k own to the Japanese as cha h m n 400 . 7 no ori This ag ificent volcano is feet high , and is the

s m u P n x n econd highest o ntain in the Kurils , Alaid eak o ly e ceedi g m n it in elevation . In for it is a tru cated cone, with a second peak t h e rising out of crater of the lower one.

— - The outer crater of Ch a cha nohori is said by the natives to be n n th e filled with water, thus re deri g inner cone inaccessible . That a considerable quantity of water from rain and melted snow s m get into the crater is certain, but that it re ains there I very

m u m i s ch doubt, as the area fro which the water can drain into it

no t r and la ge, and evaporation the percolating of the water through u s the earth would soon ca se it to di appear. A rugged ridge of m ountains to the north - west of Ch a- cha- noh ori extends out to

Rew au si r x Cape , the no th e treme of the island . Besides the

n n h r mountains on the orthern part of Ku ashir, t e e are two other

n u u m n n m n co spic o s asses, the second bei g ear the iddle of the isla d .

i R u - nob ori 3020 The h ghest peak of this group is called o se , and is

s - u feet above ea level . In the r ined crater of this there are hot

S r n s u m su m n d p i g , f eroles, and the deposit of lphur already e tione .

m i s - 1 61 1 The third ountain at the south west end, and is only feet

high . Between these three groups of mountains the land is com

arativ el lo w m s m s p y , with s all hills and peak , valleys and swa p , n which are covered with vegetatio . m un s r m . K a hir is fai ly well ti bered, firs predo inating The n lower la ds are covered with forests and grasses , the sasa or n ar e bamboo grass bei g very thick . The valleys generally grassy and swampy ; the sp u rs of the hills covered with gr oves of timber

u r and isolated trees . The general aspect of the s face of the island n 30 m l is similar to the smaller one of Shikotan, lyi g i es to the ‘ rs n u eastward. The coa e, rank vegetatio , s ch as prevails on some

m n . of the islands further north , is of li ited exte t

n - m n Bears, wolves, foxes, la d otters , arte s , and squirrels are

- u found on the island . The sea otter is found abo t the reefs and CRIP TI ON OF EAon I S AND AND THE T 5 5 DES L S RAI TS.

- s - of b u t for m kelp bed at the north east extremity Kunashir, so e

d ur r s - reason he oes not venture f the to the outh west . Leopard m and seals are nu erous, the straits and bays are favourite feeding oun gr ds for whales and porpoises .

n u s Trout of several ki ds are fo nd in all the stream , which are

s m n m - ns also visited by al on a d sal on trou t at certain s easo .

m n i w ash i n s n m s in I mense shoals of herri gs and (a ki d of ardi e) , ile and off s s extent, pass along the coast of the i land .

OTAN s SHIK , lying to the ea tward of the Kunashir, and about

40 m - s m C No sh af n 14 iles north east by ea t fro ape y , has a le gth of m 6 n 70 . iles and a breadth of about , its area bei g square miles The coasts of this island are indented with innum erable small

m - bays and coves, several of which for land locked harbours . The chief of these are Shakotan in the north corner of the island ;

u - and Matsu ah am a Anama, abo t the middle of the north west coast ; g ,

t h e - near the southern corner of south east coast . In addition to

. sm . these, there are four or five others suitable for all craft The shores are very rocky and in many places bordered with steep ff M v n n cli s . ost of the bays ha e sandy beaches i side, the entra ces i ffs invar ably between rocky blu . n The la d is very rugged , the whole island being a mass of u Its irreg lar hills and valleys running in every direction .

r s - highest pa t is a roundi h topped hill near its northern corner, $ 1 35 n which reaches a height of 7 feet, and there are half a doze 0 other hills in different parts of the island over 1 00 feet high . n i s Shikota is not thickly wooded , though there no want of m s w n on s ti ber of fair size . The tree gro pri cipally the purs of

r w m r s the hills . The valleys a e s a py and cove ed with coar e grass

sasa or b m . In a boo grass , like that of Yezo, is found in patches every valley ther e are stream s in which trout abound salm on and salmon - trout are plentiful in the bays and streams at certain

s s not s . s easons , but the i land is fished by the Japane e In the bay

' sm fl ound ers - fi sh are u s m u elt, , and roek fo nd , whil t cla s are plentif l i n m m u places where the botto is ore or less m ddy . During the summer a number of Japanese fisherm en are sent u here for the p rpose of gathering seaweed . This is dried by x u on u t u i n u s e pos re to the sun the beaches, p p b ndle , and shipped n vi a away to Chi a Hakodate. In m Ku rils k u um n Shakotan bay the re nant of the y Ain , n beri g T ON THE K RI I A 5 6 NO ES U L SL NDS.

- fift . some y nine persons, has been established They are under the J ffi and nl m charge of a apanese o cial and doctor, are the o y per anent

n n . m reside ts of the isla d They have so e cattle and sheep , and cultivate a fe w plots of ground . Although the aspect of Shikotan from seaward is perhaps not n u to ul very inviting, on closer acquainta ce it is fo nd be a beautif n ff and picturesque little isla d, di ering in most of its characteristics from the other islands . It is capable of being cultivated to a x w considerable e tent, and ould be most suitable, I should say, for

- n D n cattle ranchi g. eer would thrive well, but there are no e on m n the island, the only land ani al bei g the fox . A few leopard seals and sea - lions and an occasional sea-otter are to be met with

n - m n and arou d the coast. Wild fowl are fairly nu erous in spri g u m n u n n a tu , and a few d cks breed here . The isla d has bee well

s f and s urveyed by o ficers of the Japanese navy, the chart publi hed . The space between Shikotan and C ape Noi sh af is occu pied by um low i n and a n ber of flat sla ds , islets, rocks, which at one time w er e no doubt connected with the long tongue - like cape which

s r n m project f om the easter side of Yezo, which they closely rese ble .

e u h 17 u r The largest of these islands is Shib ts , wit an area of sq a e

m u s nex t f i n 3 iles ; S i ho is size , with 2 square miles ; then follow u 3 m s and u 2 — Tarak with 5; square ile , Y ru with 5 square miles . Ak i uri Har uk aru and m n n s and y , , the re ai i g islets, reef , rocks are u 1 n C ne together equal to abo t square mile . The Shikota han l i s 1 1 m n In iles wide between the isla d of that name and Taraku . s nn m R 5 thi cha el there is a shoal called A agi eef, lying some miles

' t o the north - east of Taraku ; and 4 m iles to the south -east of this island there are three or four clusters of rocks and islets called

- m - Todo shi a, which are a resort of the sea lion .

- n The ever present fox is fou d on these islands, which are the

- - breeding places of various kinds of sea birds . Leopard seals are

m n - a . nu erous, d now and then a sea otter is met with The islands

are only of value for the seaweed which is gathered here . All these islands and the channels between them have been

n u J . rece tly s rveyed by the apanese, and the charts issued — KUNASHIR CHANNEL Yet orup is separated from Kunashir by u n C n b ut the K ashir ha nel , as it is now called, marked on old n s s charts as Pico Channel and Catherine Chan el . Thi trait is

about 1 2 m iles across at its nar ro west part . It has deep

5 8 NOT ON THE K RI I ES U L SLANDS.

7 M ( ) ountains to the north of Bear Bay are 4200 feet high . (8) The volcano‘ on the south side of Bear Bay is about 3800 l m n feet in e evation, whilst the ountains lyi g to the eastward of 2200 it are about feet .

u m B eritarib i m Hotok o Steam iss es fro , from two or ore of the

Ch iri n - end of group , p, and from the volcano at the orth east the

s . u n i n 1 883 u i land The latter was in violent er ptio . A s lphur

in B eritarib i M n w as m deposit the ountai s worked so e years ago ,

n ar n s but it has been aba doned . There e several hot spri g in

f Y r nd . s e to u a dif erent parts of the island The coa t of p is bold, there are no Off-lying dangers even to within half a mile from the beach .

On the south - east coast the two largest indentations are Roku

u - Hitok a u Bay, near the so th west end, and p Bay, about the middle

u fi rst - m n of the island . Altho gh the na ed bay is of co siderable s n ize, it is not shown on charts . The best a chorage is in its

- - - r m s . north eastern co ner, but it is open fro east to west south we t Water can be got here from a small stream falling from the cliffs h m s on to the beac , which is protected fro the surf by some rock and m a s all rocky point . Hitoka u 6 m m w h p Bay is about iles deep, and the sa e in idt , n n m and w the points at e trance lyi g al ost east est of each other. n m The western poi t is low, and for s part of a fairly level expanse ' n Hi k u M u n n Ofl n of cou try at the base of the t o ap o tai s . this poi t

r n m is a reef with kelp growing on and a ou d it . About two iles n n s i side the point is the river and station of O eb et . There are

s not w u . but two hou es here, which , however, are al ays occ pied N earer the point is a sm all stream where water can be obtained .

w n n i s m h ff The ester poi t of the bay ade up of hig steep blu s, with_ a n r m f e t m ns a row argin of bouldery beach at their e . A ile or two i ide

n low n . the la d becomes , with a beach of cobble sto es Around the n rn head of the bay the shore is mostly of fine sa d . At the northe m n m n extre e of the bay there is the statio of Toshi oi , co sisting of two or three houses on the banks of a river flowing fr om a

r h s C od . and m ar e n t e . la ge lake Trout sal on take in stream ,

u - fi sh i n N m u . halib t, and rock are plentif l the bay u bers of whales

r un m f equent this place, and I have co ted as any as seventy of u n m s ff these h ge cr eatures in sight at o e ti e here . Thi bay a ords f air shelter from all winds on one side or the other. F EAOR I AN AND THE TRAI T 5 9 DESORIP TI ON O SL D S S.

To the north of the Cygnet rocks are two small coves, in one of Toshiure which is the station of , where there are one or two Ainu k n houses . Small vessels can ta e shelter here, and obtai wood of and water. There are no villages or places importance on the

- Ye toru south east coast of p. The Okhotsk or north -west coast of Yetorup has a much longer

- P - th e shore line than the acific or south eastern side, owing to three or four peninsulas which project from the m ain part of the s n on i land . All the principal settlements and fishi g stations are this side, the reason being that the lakes and streams are more n m u erous, the coast is more easily fished ; and, further, it is the

t e s r m lee side of the island during h umme onths, and consequently

- end freer from fogs . At the north east of the island is Bear Bay, m M 5 2 . o er u about % miles across, and % deep The s all station of y is here . The principal villages and fishing stations of Yet orup are Fureb ets f n N (the o ficial capital) , Sha a, aibo , Bettobu, Shibetoro , S uke a Rub ets R Mak oimai Mo eru Tosh iu re Tosh im ori y , , ouse, , y , , , Tanem i M h k i i 1 343 o o e oh . , , and Oito The total population was

i n - 1 890 u m . There are no good harbo rs with co plete shelter . and n The lower hills plains are well wooded with birch, pi e,

. Sa sa m a ki and alder, etc (ba boo grass) , nettles, f (petasites), variou s umbelliferous plants and other coarse vegetation grow so n thickly that it is almost impossible to get about the isla d ,

except up the watercourses or by the beaten tracks . m r u Yetor u Bears were for e ly very numero s in p . A few wolves

a n . F exist, but they are r rely see oxes are plentiful, as are also

n - M la d otters . artens and hares also exist . Bird life is identical with that of Kunashir and the eastern r pa t of Yezo . I have never m et with any reptiles on the island . u —flies With the exception of flies, mosq itoes, and sand , which are u great pests, insects are not numero s . Previous to 1 87 5 sea - otters in considerable numbers frequ ented the south - east coast of this island ; b u t the hunting of this valuable animal has been so keenly pursued by the Japanese from

m un the shore, as well as fro vessels der foreign flags , that they

b ut m s have been all exter inated . Several thousand have been u capt red, and nearly all were sent to the London market .

- - Sea lions are found on a rookery at the south west end, on K I I AN 60 NOTES ON THE UR L SL DS.

k - the Cygnet roc s, and on a cluster of rocks near the north east

L all . end . eopard seals are plentiful round the island

The charts of Yetorup are very imperfect . Although the alterations of late years have been considerable, each one appears m al to make matters worse rather than better. On the latest Ad ir ty

cor r ecti ons 1 8 90 u chart, with to , Cape Vries is laid down abo t 5 C S e we rsi 2 miles too far north , and ape about miles too far s - r 7 outh, thus making the north easte n part about miles broader l than it real y is . YETORUP TRA T s S I , as it is now named , but marked on old chart 1 9 Ok ab et s Yetor u Vries Strait, is miles across from Cape on p C N b u n to ape o nots on the island of Urup . It is free from da ger Yetoru b ut off C Nob unots on the p side, ape there are some rocks and a reef extending out into the strait to nearly a mile . This

- reef is covered by an immense kelp bed , the long streamers of

ou t which , however, are often carried of sight below the surface

r on of the water by the strong currents . The e is a shoal patch Off this reef on which the sea breaks in a heavy swell . the point

- n and over the reef v ery heavy tide rips are formed . Lyi g about 2 miles north - west of Cape Nob unots is a high rock called Sail

. n rock This strait is sometimes blocked by ice in the spri g .

UR ur 60 m l UP, the fourth largest of the K ils , is i es long , with m 298 an average width of about 6 iles . It has an area of square m mm . iles . It is uninhabited except during the su er fishing season m m There are four principal ountain groups, separated fro each

Pr u - s other by lower land . oceeding from the so th west, the fir t u 1 4 m u n n gro p is about iles p the isla d, the highest peak reachi g 3650 w u about feet . T elve miles further up is the second gro p, one u n w 3 5 mo tain in hich is some 7 0 feet high . Ten miles beyond we

m 4150 t - co e to the highest peak in the island , fee above sea level , 3800 m u one with another of feet in the sa e cluster . In this gro p m u or two of the mountains are giving off stea . Still f rther to

- t u m i n the north east is the four h mo ntain ass, with peaks, the u N 3 50 and 3650 in latit de of Cape obu, 7 feet feet elevation, the n u 2700 end mountai being abo t feet high . Between these groups of mountains the land is much lower and n m - s d arrower, for ing three bays on the north west coast of the i lan .

m i s h n and Strea s flow into these bays , and it ere the Japa ese now then establish fishing stations . F EAOH I AN AND THE TRAI T 6 1 DESCRIP TI ON O SL D S S.

m - a All the mountain asses lie on or near the north western co st, and i m make that side of the island h gh and bold, uch of the ff land terminating in almost perpendicular cli s, with no beach at foot . The south-east or Pacific side of Urup i s m uch less bold than and w the Okhotsk side . Its coast is rocky practically ithout a bay u n n m thro ghout its whole le gth , but there are ma y s all rocky

h u m s n bights ; and, about alfway p the coast, there is the s all ba i

r P n n s i s like harbou called ort Tava o . The entra ce to thi about 1 20 uff yards wide , between bl s, where there is a depth of water of 8 1 0 m from to fatho s .

This harbour is only suitable for small vessels. With the m wind from the eastward, a heavy swell rolls in . There are so e n th m 4 rocks just above water ear e centre of the harbour, with fro

5 m s to fathoms of water close to them . Two s all streams flow into thi place . This harbour was the site of the factory established by the

R s - m 1 5 u sian A erican Company in 79 . The village was inhabited Kurilsk 1 8 8 by y Ainu up to 7 .

- end The north east of the island terminates in a long, flat, and

o 8 0 1 00 - narrow t ngue of land or feet above sea level, extending s m 5 6 m - n o e or miles fro the slope of the north easter mountains , h as u 2 m u n where it a width of abo t iles, and grad ally narrowi g to u 2 i ts a ridge towards the point, through which , for abo t miles of m length , the sea has ade breaches, giving it the appearance of a

row of bluffy islets . About 4 m iles from the point on the north - west side are the n m n n i off Twi Islets , two s all peaked isla ds lyi g about a m le shore, n m a reef covered with kelp extendi g out to the . There is a danger in the form of a s unken rock some 2 or 3 miles

ofl 5 m - s - m shore , about iles in a south outh west direction fro the

o . w s n w s ea s . p int It sho o ly in a high s ell, when the break upon it From 1 2 t o 35 fathoms of w ater was found on sounding in its Its n vicinity. location could not be fixed when discovered, owi g

to fog. U u M u The highest part of the r p o ntains are bare of vegetation ,

and covered with snow during the greater part of the year. Lower m On down they are overgrown with osses and grass . the lower

o s s gr und there is plenty of timber, but none of large ize ; pine, l l s and birch , and a der is the most common . In the va ley on the 62 NOTE ON THE K RI I AN S U L SL DS.

l slopes of the hil s there is a dense growth of coarse vegetation . The sas m n a or ba boo grass does not exte d beyond this island .

F n u - fishin off ish are ple tif l in the streams, but there is no sea g

s - the coa t . Vast beds of kelp extend all along the south east coast , and n u l it is ple tif l a so on the opposite side of the island.

- n s n n Sea otters are found here, their favourite hau t bei g arou d the reefs and rocks near the ends of the island . Leopard s eals are

um - k k n erous, and there is a sea lion roo ery on a roc at the south N b u n ts west end close to Cape o o .

n - m h The o ly land ani al I ave seen here is the fox, but I believe

- . s n there are land otters also There are no bears on the i la d .

n - m Y t ru e o . u La d birds are much less nu erous than on p G lls ,

m u fli ns and m - guille ots, p , shags ake a breeding place of the steep

- isolated parts of the north east point .

m a ot - Anchorage y be g in any of the bays on the north west side ,

and u n fi ne o r where wood water can be obtained d ri g weather, m when the wind is off shore . On the Ad iralty charts the coas t line from Port Tavano to th e north - east end is laid down with a trend much too northerly . The remains of several old wrecks are to be fou nd on the sou th

Nob unots on a nd east coast. Close to Cape , a ledge of rocks ’ u f and n bo lders beneath the clif s , is a large ship s anchor some chai ,

s m n a o all that is left of a whaler which was lo t here a y years g .

w - end n t r s To ards the north east is part of the hull of a o he , whil t one m s In further along the bleached timbers of ore may be een .

su 1891 the mmer of , a Japanese hunting schooner was lost with all

- h ands on the north east point. R TRA T U 1 3 U UP S I , between rup and the Black Brothers, is miles w u n ide . The tides sweep thro gh at considerable rate , givi g rise to

a w . u r s awkw rd s irls and rips Altho gh this passage is free f om rock , it s r is not advi able to take it during foggy weathe , as the long low n - U t n orth east point of rup is not easily dis inguished like high la d , which can often be seen above the fog .

A ROT RS — Reb untsirib oi The BL CK B HE , as they are usually called — a nd Brat Ch irnoi of the charts are t w o s mall islands lying north

m - m east by north fro the north east point of Urup . Looked at fro

u - n m the so th east, these two isla ds present a somewhat si ilar appear

n - and , n a ce, a high cone shaped peak next it one of less elevatio , n joined to which is a other still lower. IRTI ON OF ACH I AN AND THE 63 DEs oR E SL D STRAITS.

Th e u n r 2 m So ther B other is about 5 iles long, and has an area of

34 square miles . The principal peak of this island is on its western

and t 2470 . no side , reaches a heigh of feet It is an old volca , n n apparently long exti ct. O its sea side is a hollow which look s m like the ruins of an old crater. The s aller peaks extend in a

- m north easterly direction fro the highest one .

Except on its steepest parts , which are on the western side, the

no whole island is overgrown with grass and mosses. There is

u timber or scr b . n n i s couchant On its wester poi t a large rock resembling a lion , and a short distance above this is a rocky ledge frequented by

- w i n thousands of sea lions . There is deep ater close to the land n b u t on m s n early all round, its north side, in the s all strait eparati g

d s h n ff the two islan , there is a hig islet with a reef extendi g o it

- for nearly a m ile in a south easterly direction . There is a depth of

m 5 20 m r water on this ledge of fro to fatho s, with here and the e a m rock above water and so e awash . This reef is usually covered with large beds of kelp. n The strait betwee the two islands is about a mile wide, with w deep water throughout, ith the exception of the ledge already m entioned . N n i s 3 — m n and The orther Brother 5 iles lo g, has an area of m n u n u 3 . abo t ; sq uare iles It has three co spic ous co ical peaks, the

n m n . n and orthern ost bei g the oldest and highest It is now exti ct, a great part of the crater has fallen away on the north - western

f r s . ide, leaving clif s which are nearly perpendicula The height of

k s 23 0 P m n this pea i 6 feet. rojecting fro its souther slope there i s an v n n 2 1 7 0 acti e volcanic co e of less elevatio , feet ; and again ,

m s s w is fro the outhern ide of this latter, but a step lo er, there n n t m i . s s s a other Both the e e d for h stea , and the lower one n occasionally i n violent eru ptio .

s m to This i land is al ost bare of vegetation , the only bit of green

s n n i ts - t n n ss be ee bei g on north eas er poi t, which is covered with gra

nd u t n are m s a moss . Strewn aro nd the foo of the volca oes asse of

- n not u n black looki g rock, which from a distance appear like trees .

u u n r As is s al with volcanoes , the upper slopes are covered with fi e m ff t o f m u aterials , one e ec which is to ake the pper part of the

m u n n r u o tai appea lighter in colo r than the lower part . On the eastern s ide of the north island there is a small bay 64 N T ON THE K O ES URIL ISLANDS.

m for ed by two narrow points which reach out nearly a mile . 1 3 Anchorage in fathoms with a sandy bottom can be got here . n There is no water fit for drinking purposes . On the n orther beach is some driftwood.

- - Besides sea lions and sea otters , there are a few leopard

r n - m - seals about . The e are no la d ani als . The land birds are con

' fi n d s s n n e a d s . to a few ravens , peregrine , falcon , wagtail , wre

A s uffin m n s a d . uk , p , guille ots, gulls, fulmars , shags are very plentiful

No fish are to be got here .

MAKANRURU RO G TON S AND 10 m - , or B U H I L , lying iles north north of und in 5 m s west the Black Brothers, is ro ish form , about ile in

um i u 2 . circ ference, w th an area of abo t square miles It is a rugged

- ffs m m s s 2900 . n do e haped i land , feet high I accessible cli , so e of 1 000 . which are over feet high , extend all round the island Here and there beneath the cliffs are narrow margins of bouldery

- m or pebbly beach . On the north west side there are so e rocky s m Of k bight , and also so e rugged patches roc s, the largest of which

n m sea f lions i s used as a breeding rookery by vast u bers of .

m u off - There are so e p miceous rocks the south east side. The water

deep to close in to the shore .

- m an Sea fowl com on to the other islands are plentiful . The l d

s and ns birds I have noticed were ravens , falcons , wagtail , wre .

s - and - Be ides sea lions, a few leopard seals an occasional sea otter are to be met with . t n b u t h as on Like the res , the island is volca ic, it been l g extinct, and is now, except in the highest portions, green with short vegetation .

O SSO C ANN l n n a - m n m The B U LE H EL , yi g betwee the l st entio ed s all

s n Si mush i r s r i la ds and , is the widest of all the strait of the Ku il n i d s m n s . s . u u a I lands It has deep water thro gho t, free fro all da ger The distance across betw een the Black Brothers and the south f im u sh i r 32 west end o S is about miles . 2 IMUSHIR 33 m 8 . S is miles long, and fro to wide Its area is

s m s F m s n 1 26 quare ile . ro a distance , looking toward the orth

- west, this island is seen to have at its south west end a high n m w n m M M u s n volca ic ass , hich has been a ed ilne o ntains, howi g N two peaks w hich reach a height of 5 6 50 feet. ext comes a low narrow neck of land joining this part to a ridge of hills which

- gradually rise to a round topped mountain 2300 feet high . This is

E I 6 6 NOTES ON TH KURIL SLANDS.

n N Kurilsk b e chief settleme ts of the orthern y , are to seen on the s eastern ide of the harbour. m w Around the bay so e small trees and scrub gro , but the n other parts of the island have a very sca ty supply of vegetation , m n - a y parts , particularly the south western , being quite bare . There are considerable quantities of driftwood on the beaches of

- the north west coast . m The strea s are few and very small, and fish are scarce . F - oxes , which are numerous, are the only land animals . Sea

n k - end lio s are plentiful ; besides the roo ery at the south west , m u t wo already entioned, there is a large one abo t miles below the

- P t . nor h east cape on the acific side Leopard seals are common, and

~ r s ea o tte s scarce .

- m - Land birds are few in nu ber ; sea fowl are fairly numerous . Imm ense flocks of harlequin ducks are seen here during the mm su er . On the Adm iralty charts this island i s shown with a length of

n 2 m n t - - o ly 7 iles , and lyi g nor h east by north and south west by s 33 m outh ; whereas it should be iles in length, with its general * - - direction north east and south west .

— - TO n r . KE I . The ext island to the no th east is Ketoi The i n w n D a d 8 m . cha nel between is called iane Stra t, is iles ide The s m 6 m n i land is of a squarish for , about iles through orth and south , n n 5 a d rather more east a d west. Its area is 3 square miles . w m u n n It sho s a mass of o tai s with several volcanic peaks, not

v Its ou t u n . one of which , howe er, stands as an isolated mo ntai

on n - highest part is its orth western side, where the peak attains a

height of 3800 feet . Another near the centre of the island is

4 - 3 00 feet high . Steam issues from a crater in the north western

r m n n n n t r n . co er, and fro a o her ear the ce t al orthern part On the west and north - west the land terminates mostly in high and

m u ffs i n m . al ost perpendic lar cli , with deep water close to the On s ffs n n the north hore the cli run back i la d a short distance ,

n s x fl atti sh con leavi g at their ba e an e panse of low land . This ti n ue s u m and n ff n for abo t a ile a half, whe the cli s agai border

s n - F m s n the hore rou d to the north eastern side . ro thi the la d g rad ually slopes to the eastward and southward to the lowest

p art of the island .

Corr in N 2405 ected Chart o. . T 6 DESCRIP TI ON OF EAOR ISLAND AND THE S TRAI S. 7

There are rocks and reefs off the south - east coast to a distance

f n r 2 m s m a o ea ly iles . All round the rest of the i land the coast y w n m a off n be approached ith safety. A chorage y be got the orth 1 0 1 2 m off u s 1 2 1 5 om s shore in to fatho s, and the so th ide in to fath

m s u - n on a rocky botto . On the east side of the o th east poi t there is a r ocky bight where a landing can be effected at almo st any time .

- o - and There is a sea li n rookery on the south west point,

n - m u a other on the south east point. These ani als also freq ent the ff n o o t . rocks the east cape, but it is a regular rookery A few

- sea otters and leopard seals are to be found . F m F oxes are the only land ani als . ish are not to be obtained ;

m m f u . r the strea s are very s all, and water is di fic lt to obtain The e is some scrub on the island, and a patch of fir trees on a slope facing the northern shore . m d n Birds are not nu erous , there being few suitable bree i g m n m n n m r ss places for them . A o gst the fir trees e tio ed I ca e ac o n n Na ci r a a ca r oca ta ctes not a colo y of utcrackers ( f g y ), birds I have no on n Ye toru ticed the other isla ds north of p.

1 3 r r m . Ketoi Strait, 5 miles ac oss, is f ee fro dangers

USHISHIR n - co m , on the orth east side of Ketoi Strait, is

s in n w po ed of two islands , each about a mile and a half le gth , ith a narrow bouldery reef abou t two cables long between them .

r i s 1 u s n i s an Thei area about 5 sq are mile . The north i la d of n d ffs elo gated iamond form . It is surrounded by steep cli with a m t i s ou narrow beach beneath them . At its northern extre i y it ab t 80 w i ts u rn feet high , ith a level and gradual slope upwards to so the m 0 4 u s n o f 30 0 . point, which is so e or 0 feet high The so th i la d

Ush i sh ir m 1360 . is the larger, and reaches a maxi um height of feet It is a volcanic crater which has been breached on i ts southern n n t w o sea. r n e side, givi g access to the The ent a c is betwee low

s n f e . n spit , but there is o ly su fici nt depth of water for a boat I side th e n and crater the water is deep . There are boili g springs um h as f eroles from which mu ch steam issues . This crater been

m ore fully described when speaking abou t the volcanoes .

- - A high dome shaped rock lies close to the sou th east point. B ab u sk in off its n fl atti sh on i ts rock, western poi t , is high and m b ut n top ost part, rugged on the lower ridges . On the north poi t

is a deserted village form erly inhabited by Ku rilsk y Ainu . The best anchorages on Ush i sh ir are between i ts two parts on I 6 8 NOTES ON THE KURIL SLANDS.

n b ut s either side of the connecti g reef, nearer to the south i land . In w 8 est bay the bottom is sandy, with a depth of water of to

1 6 . fathoms In east bay the depths are about the same, but the m m s botto is o tly hard . m m u There are no strea s, but a s all q antity of water constantly trickles o ut of the base of the hill on to the beach at the head o f i . s s v west bay There no timber or scrub , but the i lands are co ered v - n m with erdure . There are no land a i als , and consequently this

i s s r m - n - nd place re o ted to by yriads of sea fowl as a breedi g grou . SREDNOI STRArr — N Ushish i r Sred noi . orth of is Strait, the

m os n all i s t da gerous of the channels between the islands . It 9 m iles wide from the north point of Ush i sh ir to the south point of Rash au . A ledge appears to extend right across this strait with

a n u n Sred noi v ry i g depths of water pon it, it bei g deepest between a nd Rash au reef . Sred noi n t reef is a lo g patch of rocks, par ly above and partly

n 3 o ff below the surface of the sea, lyi g nearly miles the north e nd Ushi sh i r . m t of It is about two iles in leng h , running north

r - s - - no th west and outh south east . The westernmost extremity of this reef is a m ass of black rocks about two or three cables long

m 60 n u and so e feet high in parts, havi g a r gged hummocky or

m n - u battle e t shaped appearance . Across a passage abo t a cable a nd d i n w m 5 1 a half wi e, hich there is a depth of water of fro to 0 m fl a tti sh - fatho s, is a oval shaped rock , about a couple of hundred s x and 1 5 1 6 yard in e tent , or feet above the sea at its highest part .

n n u - This rock is freque ted by ma y tho sands of sea lions . Fur

s nu m u r s v seal used to be ero s he e al o, o er five thousand being taken

th mm r 1881 m u in e su e of fro this partic lar rock . m nd The re ai er of the reef is mostly under water, a few small rocks

n i ts s m showi g above at ea tern extre ity. About halfway between the north point of Ush i sh i r and the Sred noi Black rock there i s “ u o of 1 1 a b tt n rock only a few feet out of water, with a depth 1 2 m u mm n r to fatho s all ro nd it . I e se beds of kelp grow a ound the — Sred noi f s . reef, which are avourite resort of the sea otter Betw een the reef and Rash au the channel is deeper and safe to i n fi ne w b ut n m s n o ff take eather, there are rocks lyi g so e di ta ce the ” s n Rash au r outh poi t of , another button ock showing above water about 2 miles to the southward of this point. Through th ese straits the tides and currents rush with great D THE TRAI T 6 9 DESCRIP TI ON OF EACH ISLAND AN S S.

n u s r r velocity, giving rise to treme do ips . At times a strong b eeze

s m u n i s necessary to enable a vessel to te the c rre t .

RASHAU n n n - s m , the ext isla d to the orth ea tward, is so ewhat

- 9 m s n u and 5 oval shaped, about ile lo g north and so th , broad

i s r an 25 r east and west at t widest pa t . It has area of squa e m s ile . n m The mountains of this isla d form an irregular ass, with 3300 several peaks , the highest of which reaches an elevation of

r i s n m feet . On the eastern side the e a crater givi g off stea , around u 2 m m which there appears to be a deposit of sulphur. Abo t iles fro n w i sland i s r the south poi t, on the estern side of the , an old dese ted

u m n Ain settle e t .

s There are no good anchorages . The coast is everywhere teep, an m n k u n d there are a y roc s aro nd it, particularly off the orth and s outh ends ; but the water is, as a rule , deep close in to them .

W t i s r ss s a er not readily procurable he e, the acce ible stream , m nn n fs which are but s all driblets ru i g down over the clif , not being

s n r m s near a pos ible a chorage . The lower pa ts of the island are os a nd n n m f grass grow , and ear the botto of the slopes of the clif s

a ki and in u n f other coarse vegetation grow great prof sio .

r n - n m s m o s The e are no la d a i al but foxes , which are very nu er u .

R s s ns ar e n - r s aven , falcons , wagtail , and wre the o ly land bi d I

- n s have noticed . A few shore birds, sa dpipers and dotterels, are al o

s n - u n n u s n to be ee . The various sea fowl freq e ti g the K ril are ple tiful .

fi sh Sea- s s There are no to be caught here . otter , leopard seal ,

- n n b ut and sea lio s are to be met with arou d the coast, there are no

- n sea lio rookeries on this island . NADEJDA TRA T nn b Rash au M i s 14 S I , the cha el etween and atau , m s r m n off end ile wide . It is f ee fro da gers, except that the south f o Matau a long reef extends in a southerly dir ection for nearly 2

s . s i s nd i s r d a cov e e w . mile Thi reef awash in places, ith kelp MATA 6— m n and m 4 U is about 5 iles lo g, rather ore than wide . It s 20 s u area is q are miles .

n n o 5120 The gra d volcanic co e f rming this island is feet high .

m su m m m s m s o f Stea is es fro this ountain , and occasionally s all trea

r n n r - s n On lava flow from the c ater dow the o th ea ter slope . the s - e s s tO s s u s outh a t slope, toward the p, a mall ho lder project .

s n n n - n s s - u n The we ter , norther , and orth easter coa t are rock bo d , and end in high steep cliffs with deep water close in to the shore ' 7 0 NOT ON THE K RI I AN ES U L SL DS.

- w s The mountain has a long slope to the south east, here the i land makes out into a few lo w hills and terr aces of pumiceous and sandy

s n earth, gradually descending to the south shore, which has a a dy m n n n w n beach . The long reef already e tio ed exte ds from the ester point of the south shore, and there is another but shorter reef off the east point of it. i P f A small sland, about a mile in extent, called u fin Island, lies M off . 200 the east side of atau It is not more than about feet high , and n It has an undulati g surface covered with grasses and moss . h is not sho wn on any publis ed charts .

s ns Pu n i n 3 9 The be t anchorages are i ide ffi Island, from to

m n o u - w r n M i n fatho s and in Ai u Bay, in the s th este n cor er of atau,

14 s m on from 8 to fathom with a sandy botto . In this porti of the

n i s i m isla d an old A nu village, consisting of a score or ore dwellings. w Water can be procured from a small stream, and drift ood from the beach .

F s i s - n oxe are found here . There a small sea lio rookery on

t n and and - rs the nor h side of the isla d , a few leopard seals sea otte

r n nd - a e to . a be found La d shore birds are very few, but sea fowl

a re un ff n r n r ab dant, the cli s around the orthe n shores bei g favou ite

- r n n m r u m u s s . b eedi g places for i nu e able g ille ots , g lls, and hag OLOV N TRA T n M u R ik ok e 9 m G I S I , betwee ata and a , is iles wide ,

and r r f ee f om dangers .

RAIKOKE M - , which lies due north of atau, is a round shaped m 5 i n s n n u m m and 20 0 . i la d o ly abo t a ile in dia eter, so e feet height

i s a n o n m u n It extinct v lca ic cone, with its apex ch broke away, w m n m hich , when looked at fro certain directio s, gives it a so ewhat

r n n e flat appea a ce o t p . n i The slopes of the mou ta n are very steep, and covered with

s s n loo e volcanic cinder , maki g it necessary, when making the ascent , on m m 100 to proceed all fours in so e places . The crater is fro to 2 00 h . feet or t ereabouts in depth, with steep sides n There is no wood or water on the island , and but a very sca ty

w r s gro th of vegetation on its lower pa t . w u n The ater is deep all ro nd the isla d, but it is possible to off m anchor the south side i n from 1 3 to 1 6 fatho s .

- n m - m s There are no land a i als . Sea fowl , particularly ful ars, auk , ffi ns u u m s us . p , shags, and g ille ot , are numero CRIP TI ON OF EAOH I AN AND THE TRAI T DES SL D S S. 7 1

- Immense numbers of sea lions are found here . In a rocky bight

- nl on the west side is a fur seal rookery, but o y a few scores of m now u t s a . 1883 the e ani als are capt red this place In , this

u - rookery was freq ented by at least fur seals .

M S R TRA T Raikoke Sh ia sh k otan 40 m U HI S I , between and , is iles M s . u s acro s In this strait are the ushir rocks, a gro p of islet lying

30 - m Raik ok e and 1 1 m in u miles north east by east fro , iles a so th

s - m - w t of Sh iaskotan outh westerly direction fro the south es end . n There are four principal rocks , k own as Long rock, Bluff rock , k and . Low rock, Seal roc

L k . i s 80 ong roc is the northernmost It about feet high , and m is cleft into two small peaks on top . So e grass grows on it . It m nd is not difficult to land upon , as there are any small rocks a kelp

k . r beds around it which brea the seas A reef, mostly above wate , f k 140 extends from this to Blu f roc , which is about feet high . It

- i s u is flat topped , with very steep sides , and split thro gh the middle m perpendicularly. Low rock, the next, is s all and only a few feet

r k above water. Seal oc is bare and jagged, of a cleft pyramidal

o m 140 . f r , and about feet high These islets and reefs lie in the form of a crescent about a mile n in diameter, ope to the westward, and are probably part of the M k rim of an old submarine crater. uch elp grows around these

rocks and reefs on every side . Anchorage can be ge t insid e the crescent in from 1 0 to 15

m and - 1 0 1 6 fatho s, also outside, to the north east, in from to

m k m . n fatho s , with roc y botto Strong currents set through , causi g swirls and heavy rips at tim es .

- - There are many sea lions here, and fur seals are sometimes to n be found on Seal rock . Some thousa ds were taken here a few

s and - year ago . A few leopard seals an occasional sea otter are to

- m u uffins be met with also . The sea fowl are ful ars, shags, g lls, p ,

u k k . g illemots, and au s of various inds There are no other dangers than the Mushir rocks in the Mushir

Strait. SHIASHKOTAN i s 1 3 4 1 nearly miles in length , and from 5 to 2 34 miles wide . Its area is 5 square miles . m m un n This island has a ass of o tains at each end , con ected by a n u m i n s m stretch of level la d between, abo t half a ile width , and o e

80 1 00 u r m u n n to feet above the sea . The so the n o tai has a broadly 2 NOT ON THE K RI I AN 7 ES U L SL DS.

fl tti sh a k . rounded or somewhat top, with no prominent pea Its height is 2950 feet . On its western side there is a crater giving off m u m d ch stea , in which there is a eposit of sulphur. k The northern part shows two pea s, which rise to a height of 3050 F feet . rom one of these steam issues, and there is a deposit u h k m of s lphur on the nort side . The whole coast is roc y, and uch

u kelp grows aro nd the island . b O e m The est anchorage is on the west side in tom Bay, in fro 1 0 14 f s n n to athom , with sandy soundi gs . A vessel can also a chor 1 5 off the north shore in from 9 to fathoms . About the middle of P f off the island, on the aci ic side , the low land, a reef (Otter reef) n exte ds, on either side of which it is possible to anchor, but it is by

m n o f no eans a good place . The bottom is sa dy, and the depth 1 5 m can m water fatho s . Water be obtained from two or three s all streams which r un down over the cliffs at the head of Otome

Bay. There is plenty of driftwood on the beach . and The island , except the higher parts, is covered with grasses

s m - mos es, and there is a s all quantity of scrub on its north western

F n - - u lenti part . oxes are the only la d animals . Sea birds, tho gh p ful n m , are not so u erous as on most of the other islands . There

- r are no sea lion rookeries . Leopard seals are fai ly plentiful . Sea otters were numerous some years ago , but they have been nearly off all killed or driven away. EKARMA Sh iashk otan Ek arm a , separated from by Strait, is 3 n 2 m and about 3 miles lo g east and west, by 4 iles wide north 1 m 5 . south . Its area is 2 square iles The strait is about miles s at acro s the narrowest part, and is free from dangers . On the t Ek arm a s wes ern side of , a volcanic peak ri es to a height of

4 1 50 F m d 2800 x n s in feet . ro this a ri ge about feet high e te d f d n . an easterly irection, terminati g in high steep clif s The slopes

and s of the volcano are bare of vegetation, covered with loo e n volcanic ejectamenta. The mou tain is not active, but at its base n on the orth side there are warm springs . u f The shores are bounded mostly by abr pt clif s . The eastern r n n - w ff and no ther sides have steeply slopi g grass gro n cli s, with s n a bouldery beach at the foot. The lower part of the isla d on the and s m b eastern half have a growth of grasses mo ses, with so e scru

s on the northern slope . The best place to anchor on this island is on the south -eastern

4 NOT ON THE K RI I AN 7 ES U L SL DS.

On the northern corner of Kh arimk otan is a bay with sandy

- shores, and on the north west point there is an old village of the usual kind found on these islands .

Anchorage can be got in the bay in from 6 to 1 2 fathoms . o on Water can be obtained, and there is plenty of driftwo d the m m beaches . So e low scrub grows, but there is no ti ber. The lower parts of the island are covered with vegetation . The wh ole island is surrounded in the summer by an unbroken u u m 8 1 5 belt of kelp , abo t a q arter of a ile wide, with from to fathoms of water along its edge . E xcepting the two lower portions, the coast is bordered by high ff steep cli s , with a bouldery beach at their base . There are no m dangers around the coast, this island being the freest fro reefs and rocks in the whole chain .

F n - l oxes are commo . The ever present leopard sea is here, but

- - n - com sea otters and sea lions are seldom see . Sea fowl are arativel um n no p y few in n bers , the reasons bei g that there are s - w d u uitable breeding places . S ans, geese, cks, divers, and other

- water fowl frequent the lakelets and ponds among the sandhills .

od fish - A few c may be caught off the north west bay. $ T SHESTO TRA T Kh arimk otan Onek o SI H ( ) S I , separating from tan, is 7 miles broad .

N OTAN 2 For - O EK has a length of 7 miles. about two thirds of

n - end m its le gth from the north east , it has an almost unifor width of about 4 s miles ; it then bulges out into a more or less cir cu lar

h m 9 . n form , wit a dia eter of about miles The area of the isla d 1 21 is square miles. n n O ekotan has two pri cipal peaks, rising far above the rest of M f - . n n o its high parts ou t Blakiston , in the ce tre the south west n i s n n 4400 . portio of the isla d, is a volca ic cone feet high It u sit ated in a basin of hills, its slopes nowhere approaching the s n coast . Thi basin is probably an old crater of co siderable extent, n the surrounding hills bei g the rem ains of its outer walls . M un N m on n o t e o, another volcanic peak the wester side of the

n 3300 . orthern portion of the island, is feet high There are several

m - s end s aller peaks on the north ea t , and some rounded mountains

s n and ridges near the middle of the i la d . The coast on the Okhotsk sea side of Onekotan is steep and N n m and practically straight up to Cape emo . It the akes in CRIP TI ON OF EACR I AN AND THE TRAI T 5 DES SL D S S. 7

N 1 0 forms emo Bay, where a fair anchorage can be got in from to

13 m u . m fatho s, with sandy s rroundings A strea of good water u t in r ns into this bay, where salmon and trou may be obtained the season .

off - n A short reef extends Cape Kimberley, the north west poi t

C - h of the island . ape Littlejohn, the north east point, has a hig off m s rock lying a short distance it . About the iddle of the coa t, on P the acific side, are the remains of an old village . To the m n ff s southward of this the land for s Blakisto Bay, which a ord

“ n m m 9 1 2 f m F m a chorage on a sandy botto in fro to atho s . ro

s u u n Blaki ton Bay, aro nd the so ther part of the island , the coast

rm n u - fs o r te i ates in high , abr pt, black looking clif , and with little no n u of n beach . A co siderable q antity kelp grows arou d the

off- island . The coast is safe to approach , there being no lying d angers . Leopard seals are common ; sea- otters and sea - lions are m et

- F with , but there are no sea lion rookeries on the island . oxes and

sm mm n - m a all rodent (le ing) are the only la d ani als . s Vegetation now begins again to be more profuse. The valley w n m have a rank gro th of grass, ettles , and u belliferous plants , the slopes of the hills and flats are covered with mosses and other

- n n close growi g greenery , and wild flowers of many ki ds are b u t . abundant . There is a growth of scrub in places, no trees

- - Onekotan is not a favourite breeding ground for sea fo wl .

C od fish off n . are to be caught the coast, but not in large umbers F T P AT TRA T O Mak anrushir IF H ( I I) S I , between nekotan and , is 1 3 miles wide, with deep water throughout. MAKA l m NRUSHIR is rough y oval in for . Its greatest length is

- 6 and 4 m . miles north and south, and its width east west is 5 iles 2 1 n It has an area of ; square miles . This isla d is made up of n s n v an irregular mass of mou tains howi g se eral peaks , but there

- m . is no well formed pro inent cone The mountains, which reach to a 3900 r . height of feet , are volcanic, but at the p esent time there is no activity .

- The northern and north eastern beaches are bouldery, with a n s short stretch of hillocky low land at back . The souther coa t i s s m l E n i i ar. lsewhere all around the isla d the shore is bounded f by lofty clif s, with a narrow beach at their foot . b ut off There are no good anchorages, the lower parts of the NOT ON THE K RI I AN 7 6 ES U L SL DS.

7 1 7 island the soundings are from to fathoms, a safe distance from

and - m the beach . On the west south west sides there are so e off lying rocks . The low ground and the lower slopes of the mountains are

n w . gree with vegetation, hich here and there includes a little scrub

- fi h n C od and rock s are ple tiful .

- u F Sea birds in great numbers are to be fo nd . oxes exist here ,

- m n and but no other land ani al . Leopard seals are umerous, sea s - otter rare . Sea lions are seen around the island, but there are no rookeries on it . M w any beds of kelp gro around the coast. os RO s Av CK, or Avos I land as it is called on charts, is merely a s - 200 u whiti h looking steep , bare rock , about feet high, ro ghly m m m 30 40 . pyra idal in for , with a base of so e or y ards At a n dista ce it has the appearance of a vessel under full sail . Within a ’ n e m 20 30 cable s le gth of the high rock are four oth r s aller ones, or ’ and n n s feet above water, beyond these, exte di g about two cable n atch s le gth , is a kelp p , at the end of which there is a rock ju t 5 h awash . A short di stance off; a depth of from 30 to 3 fat oms was un found all aro d the rocks and shoal . “ - out . Sea lions haul on these rocks, but do not breed here

w u ar e J Guillemots, kitti ake g lls , and shags plentiful, and in une their

s n eggs can be obtained in thou a ds . Avos rock bears west a qu arter south from the south point of Mak anrushir u 1 0 , abo t miles . It is not laid down correctly on charts . TR T TRA T Paramush i r 28 AMPHI I E S I , between Onekotan and , is n n s miles wide. This chan el is ge erally used by vessels cro sing the n m l s ki I o r and Pet ro au ov . Okhotsk Sea, bou d to fro p n thick hazy weather it is advisable to give the Paramushi r side of the strait a t d and . u an wide ber h The c rrents are strong, both Cape Kapari ’ Cape Henry have reefs and rocks off them to a considerable ffi u m ou t s . n s di tance Being low, these poi t are often di c lt to ake when the higher land is plainly visible . n PARAMUSHIR is one of the largest islands in the Kuril chai . 5 62 m s 57 m n It has an area of square ile , is iles in le gth, and has an m average width of about 1 0 iles . This island is m ore universally mountainous than any oth er of a n the larger ones. It has several noble volc noes, the most promine t N F EA R I ND DESCRIP TI O O C SLA AND THE S TRAI TS. 7 7

of w Fus s m n on hich is s peak, which tands on a s all peni sula the u t n m n western side of the so thern par of the isla d . This ou tain is a u n magnificent solitary cone, with gracef lly slopi g sides, ending in

steep cliffs around the shores at its base . It is one of the loftiest n M u m u n s s 6 900 . o tains in the i land , its height bei g feet o nt

hik ura tsk i u 10 m - - C , lying abo t iles further to the east north east, is n n n 6400 F m a other grand volca o risi g to a height of feet. ro this , d extending in a southerly irection, is a ridge of high mountains C hik u rat ski with m any peaks of rather less elevation than . nd Paramush i r s m a The northern e of show a ss of mountains .

o They are highest on the western side , where they reach an elevati n n s i n o f 4700 feet . The o ly visible volcanic activity on the i land is n m M this group, steam issui g fro a crater near the centre . ount

Lev ach eff P - , on the acific side of the north east end, is an old volcano t 3300 feet high . The middle par of the island has mountain m s v . ridges of les ele ation , with any peaks

- s Param ush ir The north we tern or Okhotsk Sea side of , like this i s s s and s . s ide of all the other island , the boldest teepest It end ff mostly in high cli s with bouldery beaches at their bases . There

are few rocks on this side .

P - s Paramush i r The acific or south east coa t of is less steep , with ff d w o . less epth of ater it, and there are many rocks - n n lo w n n i n C H n The south east cor er of the isla d is , e di g ape e ry .

- n The water to the eastward and north east of the poi t is shallow, and are f k 2 m s there roo s and roc s off it to a distance of nearly ile .

To C H n n m a o t the westward of ape e ry, a chorage y be g in from 1 2 1 m C n s ff 6 . o . to fatho s ape Kapari is low, and ma y rock lie it

The remains of an old Ainu settlement are to be seen here .

no m P r mu hir s u a a s . There is ti ber on , but cr b , pine, alders , etc , on grow in profusion the lower slopes of the hills .

m m s - n m s Bears, foxes, and a s all rodent co pri e the land a i als of thi

th e s m m . island . The bears are a e as those of Ka chatka They are

P m - m . b u t n r s a re fairly nu erous tar igan are found, other la d bi d not m m - r and s m e t nu erous. So e shore bi ds wader are to be with , an m - w d the lagoons and strea s are fr equented by water fo l . The usual sea- fowl comm on to the other islands are found around the s coa t.

- -l Leopard seals are common, and sea otters scarce . Sea ions

b ut k . frequent the coast, there are no roo eries on the island 7 8 N T O ES ON THE KURIL ISLANDS.

m There are trout in the strea s, and salmon trout are plentiful

s - h e nd J . fis toward the of uly Cod, halibut, and rock abound in n ff certai places o the coast . SHIRINKI i s separated from Paramu sh i r by a chann el about 5

m s s h as o . On ile acro s its narrowest part. It deep water through ut s u it our th chart it is called Third (Treti) Strait, altho gh is the f nn cha el betw een the i slands counting from Kam chatka . The area

hirin i 1 u i s 2 s and of S k is about g sq are mile . It about mile long 1 s - n broad . Looked at from a outh west directio , it has th e appearance of a rugged vol canic cone with a broad and dilapid ated li n m r crater p , but viewed from the eastward, it is see to for a idge n old with several irregular projectio s . The western side , where the

r s d 2500 . c ater is ituate , is the highest, reaching an elevation of feet The western side of the island terminates in lofty perpendicular

ffs n and m cli . The orthern coast is not so steep , has a argin of

u r m in m s n r bo lde y beach . A small cove akes fro the ea t poi t, wh e e

r V m o s the e is a ery s all stretch of low land . All the rest of the c a t

in s o n o s . t tw is high and steep Close to the we t p i are large rock ,

- r i s s r on wh ich sea lions hau l out to breed . The e al o a la ge

n m n k s u o n rookery of these a i als o a roc y ledge on the o th p i t .

i s n in 10 15 There a chorage from to fathoms, with rocky

o m off s . b tto , the north hore Myriads of guillem ots occupy the ledges of the cliffs on this side

- and ow nu m . of the island , other sea f l are erous

r sl n s The lowe parts of the i a d are green with gras and mosses .

r of There i s no scru b and no st eam water. Occasi onally a sea-otter m ay be m et with in the kelp -beds

h i ri nki m and - un S . aro d Leopard seals are co mon, sea lions very

n umerous.

A D TRA T n - s AL I S I , the cha nel between the north we tern part of hi r and l n 15 s Param us A aid Isla d, is mile wide, and is without

dangers . A D m s K b u 2 6 s AL I , the o t northern of the urils, is a o t mile in

m and h as an of 48 m . o circu ference, area square iles It is the l ftiest

s n i n n n 7 640 i la d the whole chai , its peak reachi g to a height of feet . — at s r no s This volcano is no longer active lea t, the e are vi ible signs of s u n activity . The slopes of thi grand mo ntai sweep with a gracefu l

u s m s n i n ff c rve toward the sea , in o t places endi g low cli s . On the south - east side a stream of lava has flown down and formed a N F A H I AN N 9 DESCRIP TI O O E C SL D A D THE S TRAI TS. 7

n f w low poi t. On the north side of this point there are a e old u u n Ainu h ts, which these natives sed on their periodical hunti g trips

- n - n s to the island for the capture of sea lio s . On the north wester ide , on a cluster of rocks, there is a rookery of these animals . Leopard

- seals are common, but sea otters have not been seen here during the

s la t fifteen years .

F - l ea- oxes are the only land anima s . S birds are not so numerous as at most of the other islands . F u ff There are no good streams of water. ish are plentif l o the coast .

There are no trees, but the lower parts of the island are m covered with grasses, osses, and scrub . a The coast is safe to approach , and nchorage can be got on the

u - m 9 15 f so th east, east, and north sides in fro to athoms .

TT R TRA T Paramu sh i r Sh umshi r LI LE KU IL S I , separating from or

P u ervi Island, is the narrowest of all the channels thro gh th e

s w not m m island , being, at its narro est part, ore than a ile wide . From the Pacific there are three entrances to this strait — the Lev a sh e ff 2 — first between Cape and Bird rocks , which is 5 miles d 12 17 f m n wi e , and has a depth of to atho s the seco d, between Koh sk ar o 6 14 Bird rocks and r ck, miles wide , with a depth of 20 s Kok sk ar n to fathom ; and the third, between rock and Pi nacles u - Sh u msh ir 5 w point, the so th east cape of , about miles ide . In

2 - this passage, about miles to the north three quarter east of the Kok sk ar n rock , is a patch of rocks just awash . In the chan el between this shoal and Pinnacles point there is from 13 to 20 fathoms of water . The western or Param u sh ir side of Little Kuril Strait is ind ented n with several bays havi g sandy beaches . This side is free from off n n i s lyi g da gers, but it advisable not to approach too close to Low 4 s n Lev ash eff point , mile to the orth of Cape .

Sh u m sh i r Mai ru The side of the strait, from ppo Bay southwards

P n off- n and round the shore to in acles point has several lyi g rocks . The tidal streams set with considerable velocity through this s h and trait, the flood to the nort ward the ebb to the south , at

s m e m n u or n s springs o ti es attai ing fo r five k ot . Swirls and rips n n n are formed , the heaviest bei g ge erally across the cha nel abou t a mile and a half inside the northern entrance . The rise and fall is n about 6 feet at spri g tides . 80 NOT ON THE K RI I N ES U L SLA DS.

RD S ANDS RO S 3 Lev ash eff BI I L or CK , miles east of Cape , are

r m G anim ush ir Kotanim ushir and ~ th ee s all islets named , , Chiri

us . n n o s u m hir They lie in a cresce t form, ope ing t wards the o th s G anim u sh i r s s i n m t ea t. , the outhernmo t, is , its ain par , about

1 00 h s - F m feet hig , and omewhat dome shaped . ro the high part it

uns out low and n n in r flat in a southerly direction , termi ati g a

w s narro high rock, which from a distance appears to be eparated m m fro the ain part .

m u s About a ile so th of this i let there is a large field of kelp , in o n s n and which there are s me bli d breaker . Betwee this shoal the

m 1 m r F m or n islet there is fro 9 to 0 fatho s of wate . ro the n ther s C anim ushi r - Kotanim ush ir ide of a kelp covered reef extends to , nm u n w the norther ost islet, abo t half a mile dista t . Bet een this s and C hi rim u sh i r n s i let , the easter islet, there is also a reef. The e t w o s not u i lets are quite so high as the so thern one . They are

r n - innu m er partly cove ed with grass , and are the breedi g places of

Sea - m o ufli ns m u and s s able fowl, guille ts, p , auks, ful ars, g lls, hag

m m m sea - being the ost plentiful . So eti es a otter is seen here, and C od fish l u n there are always leopard seals . and ha ibut are ab dant n in the vici ity .

KOKSKAR RO n 6 m s - n - om CK, lyi g iles ea t orth east fr the Bird

s s s - s m 1 5 I land , is a long irregular ma s of black looking rock, o e or

2 u as - - s . 0 feet above water . It is sed a breeding place by sea lion

The water is to within a short distance of the rock . S H UMSHIR n s 8 9 u , the last of the Kuril chain of isla d , is sq are

m i n n s m s in . u 1 4 ile extent It is abo t iles le gth north and outh , r and 1 1 broad east and west at its w id est pa t .

n sm as no n i s an I a uch it has mountai s , it unlike y other of the

s n u u n u n s and Kuril I la ds . Its principal feat res are d lati g hill s w m o n r ss s a py valleys , with a gr wth of scrub, pi e , alde , gra e ,

s n on m . osses, etc The highest part of the i la d is its northern side , w here it reaches an elevation of about 5 80 feet .

In - m b ack s , the north western part, about a ile from the coa t

- r m w h m n there is a fair sized shallow lake , f o ich a strea flows i to

s n i s m m s ea. the On the ba k of th s tream , a ongst so e sandhill , m n n there is a deserted village of so e twe ty or thirty dwelli gs,

‘ around som e of which sm all patches of ground have been roughly

n 3 m s - s fe ced in and cultivated. About ile to the south we t, in

Mai ru o . pp Bay, Little Kuril Strait, is another old settlement

8 2 NOTES ON THE KURIL I SLANDS.

s The tides set through thi strait with great speed at times,

n off fs . causi g heavy rips, particularly the points and along the ree C low ter ape Lopatka is a long, , undulating tongue of land , minatin - - g in a narrow point of grass covered sand dunes. The P beach is sandy on the Okhotsk Sea side, and rocky on the acific S off m and s ide . Several rocks lie the extre e point, reef extend off P the shore on the acific side to about a mile . Large beds of kelp u n grow around the cape, but the weed is often carried der water s out of ight by the strong currents . Between the Lopatka reef n 2 and the Kamchatka shore , down to withi about miles of the 7 1 5 cape, a depth of to fathoms was found . A D D E N D A .

E REMARKs - W n n in 1875 u G N R L . oss ss ons E A he Japa , , gave p her p e i i n Sa h ali n t o Russ in x n for No n Ku Is n s sh e m a s g ia e cha ge the rther ril la d , y , perhap , on w s n o b ut is no ou om us have d e a i e thi g p litically, there d bt that fr a b iness poi nt l n u n sh e n. On Sa h a i s mon s w d made a bad bargai g there are val able herri g , al , ea ee , and o s s w n s x o for m n s and i n ther fi herie hich the Japa e e had e pl ited a y year , ,

on to s h as m n s m and s. additi the e, it i eral , ti ber, peltrie Th e No t n Ku s so as was n now n to n s or r her ril , far the k the Japa e e , had little no n of n . T m i s non u on for m sons is out thi g the ki d i ber there e ; c ltivati , cli atic rea , T o f the question ; and the fisheries are poor . here are certainly a few small

os s of su u w ow s n w not to wo . Th e dep it lph r, hich, h ever , at pre e t ill pay rk chief - t an s s At val ue of the islands lay in the sea ot er d seal fi herie . the time of the x n ow fur s s w not nown to u n Ku s for n e cha ge, h ever, eal ere k freq e t the ril breedi g u os s and was not un 1881 w n oo s w d s o p rp e , it til , he their r kerie ere re i c vered by the w x s n m nown t o n s . riter, that their e i te ce beca e k the Japa e e

- Ku s or w i n num Th s oo s of . e fur eal r kerie the ril are, rather ere , three ber, viz o Sred noi o s Raikoke Is nd s and M us o s. E n s a o som n r ck , la , hir r ck leve year g e w or n ou s n s s u n of two firs t- n m oo s t elve fiftee th a d eal freq e ted each the a ed r kerie , u t w or ous n s - n m w s now is ou u and abo t o three th a d the la t a ed, hil t it d btf l if n of s n m s u u s s T n altogether a hu dred the e a i al ha l p at the e place . hey have bee ex terminated by the indiscriminate slaughter of old and young on the rookeries by n un s both Japanese a d foreign h ter . n t u Th e u s The fur seals on the Kurils comme ce o ha l up i n J une . b ll s ns n o s A few m s e o s and u o o o o . u arrive fir t , take p p iti the r kerie fe ale arriv ab t

end of un b ut m o u n s te n s of u . the J e , the aj rity d ri g the fir t day J ly “ V soon u n u m s t o one u and ery after ha li g p the fe ale give birth her p p, s w s sh e s m Th e o of s from three to five day after ard receive the ale . peri d ge tation s o u 360 s Th e s s m n on th of the fur seal i theref re abo t day . eal re ai e rookeries un end of O to or nn n of No m The fi s of til the c ber the begi i g ve ber . r t heavy fall s m now usually drives the all off . Each male able to fight and hold his own h as a harem of from about seven to s Mu n a s w n t wenty female . ch fighti g t ke place bet ee the bulls during the time the u n u The un s h n females are ha li g p . yo g bachelor w o are not strong e ough t o m n n os on on n - oun s d n off old u s and ai tai a p iti the breedi g gr d are rive by the b ll , u u ms s b ut ow s the end of s son w n us for ha l p by the elve ; t ard the ea , he the ca e ous no on x s s om mo or ss m x u w o s jeal y l ger e i t , they bec e re le i ed p ith the ther .

n s a o in s of th e old Russ n-Am n fu C o . r s s Ma y year g , the day ia erica , eal are m n on as n o n i n sma num s f om u s e ti ed bei g btai ed ll ber r the K ril . 84 NOT ON THE K RI I ES U L SLANDS.

“ ” A u - own m or u as i s a six or s n s old m su s f ll gr ale, b ll, he c lled, eve year , ea re n 7 i n n and w s ou 400 lb s Som of o on s early feet le gth, eigh ab t . e the lder e at nn n of s son w n x n l w o l w the begi i g the ea , he they are e ceedi g y fat, ill pr bab y eigh “ ” 2 5 A u - own m or s s ou 4 n mo n s. cow m u 9: per ce t . re tha thi f ll gr fe ale, , ea re ab t

d s o 85 lb s. in in n an u w . feet le gth, average ab t eight Th e cry of the female fur seal and the young ones i s very much like th at of the s ea- s wou mu m o o n m for s n m n heep. S heep ld be a ch re appr priate a e thi a i al tha sea- T o s can n s and bear. hey herd t gether like heep, be drive like heep , bleat like s T or no n i n ommon w heep . hey have little thi g c ith the bear . mus Th e s of f ur s i s w n o oo . It fle h the eal very palatable he pr perly c ked t , A n ow d s of of w i s s on and n . o d h ever, be ive ted every particle fat , hich tr g ra k cc r i g t o n s s on ns s on a o s u s In ou is not the Japa e e, the fle h c tai tr g phr di iac q alitie . flav r it ‘ un n One of th e n s n m s for or n son i s ama ottosei like ve ison. Japa e e a e the deer ve i y m oun n fur s . Th e v and on u u u t o os of ( tai eal) li er, heart, t g e are q ite eq al th e the s i n ou heep flav r . Pelagic scaling i s now carried on off th e coasts of Japan in the Spring by four or

ss s one of w m s of om 1 200 to 2000 s s. Th e five ve el , each hich ake a catch fr eal 6: un n - ound s om 25 t o 1 50 m s off s 4 0 0 M h ti g gr are fr ile hore . Cou sea- on ut to som o use is un n m on ld the li be p e pr fitable , there ab da t aterial

Ku Is n s w on n o som of s sea- on oo s in the ril la d , hich c tai pr bably e the large t li r kerie

wo . On n n oo s s un ous n of the rld the eightee breedi g r kerie , at lea t a h dred th a d

s n m s h aul u v s son Th e s f - n and fur s are the e a i al p e ery ea . habit o the sea lio eal

mos n . Th e m o u s one w is o n i n un . al t ide tical fe ale pr d ce at a birth , hich b r J e Sh e o s w oun n w mon s The old u s m g e ith y g early t elve th . b ll have each a hare of om six t o ten m s Th e oun u s n off and mu n fr fe ale . y ger b ll are drive , ch fighti g o s on w n u s o m s Th e s a- on u s t o th e w g e bet ee the b ll ver the fe ale . e li p p take ater mu n fur s u s A u - own u omm n m n of ch earlier tha the eal p p . f ll gr b ll , at the c e ce e t n s son w w om 1 200 to 1 500 lb s and u - ow n cow the breedi g ea , ill eigh fr . , a f ll gr n as mu Th e h ul l w m su om 1 0 to 1 1 in len th with early half ch . ill ea re fr feet g , ; of 8 or 9 oun s ou s a girth feet ar d the h lder . The s n of sea- on m s b ut oo For his s s b ut ki the li ake p r leather . ize he yield oil h is u Th e on w s s of n of . s n u . little , bl bber bei g a very gri tly at re l g hi ker the m w m su om 20 t o 22 n s in n t mu ale, hich ea re fr i che le g h , are ch appreciated C n s wh o so u se s s and on of n s for by the hi e e, al the gall, te te , b e the pe i m 4 n s n u os s . Th e n n som of w n edici al p rp e large ca i e teeth, e hich are early i che i n n and of ons s n of o som m s n s le gth , the c i te cy iv ry, are eti e carved by the Japa e e

’ n o netsuki i t . Th e s of - n E n is not d is fle h the sea lion i s particularly good eati g. ve the fat

i n ou of fur s and s . Th e m ou agreeable flav r, like that the eal hair eal eat, th gh

o s in n i s n u and s s . I t m s sou . c ar e grai , te der, j icy, ea ily dige ted ake a capital p Th e sea- on mus m n n u n m s or i ts num s w ou n s li t have a y at ral e e ie , ber ld i crea e no mous and so n The oun t o w mu e r ly o out number the fur seal . y g take the ater ch n fur s u s and n w w and ss n fur s l earlier tha the eal p p , , bei g a k ard le agile tha the ea , o w s Or ca la dia tor pr bably fall victims i n large nu mbers t o sharks and killer hale ( g ) . Although considerable numbers of hair seals ( P hoca vi tulura) are to be found on Ku s u su of s n m i s n t o mun for the ril , the p r it thi a i al ever likely be re erative, omm u is sm One s w w as mu oil their c ercial val e very all . hair eal ill yield t ice ch as sea- on ou or m s its s T in un and o u one a li f r five ti e ize . hey breed J e, pr d ce at a A N A DDE D . 5

. T d i h m birth hey o not associate n rookeries. T e fe ale usually h auls up alone on som low o or o or t o t o oun w h e r ck r cky ledge beach give birth her y g, hic very

soon s t o th e w . T s s o s not to o m us Du n take ater hi eal d e appear be p lyga o . ri g fi ne w eather it i s not unu sual to see a dozen or more of these seals lying basking on o s or s us w s r o th e w W n o . o r ck ledge j t a a h a little ab ve ater he appr ached , they s m n o w and w n s w m oun and n u t cra ble i t the ater, ill the i r d ve t re close o a boat w n as to u os On m n m o m n ith little appare t fear, if gratify their c ri ity . aki g a ve e t , w s n su of th e sea t o n in few m nu s they ill di appear be eath the rface , appear agai a i te or s on T s s s mos n s n n ec ds. he e eal al t i variably i k be eath the surface hind part s s w s sea- ons fur s s and sea - o s mos as inv ari ab l u n o fir t , herea the li , eal , tter al t y t r ver and o own fi g d head rst . Th e s is u su s n b ut o s on m s soun — a s n s o hair eal ally ile t, it cca i ally e it a d i gle h rt not un of d o bark , like that a g. Th e m of s i s and o s - n and th e i s eat the hair eal very dark c ar e grai ed , fat very

s on . I on ns an mm ns u n tr g t c tai i e e q a tity of blood . W s s oo s s sea- o h as om s s hil t the eal r kerie are de erted , the tter bec e o carce that not more than seventy or eighty are now taken i n a year along the w h ole K i Th - h a n n of th e u s. e sea o s on nuous un s n 1 873 chai r l tter bee c ti ly h ted i ce , o n ss s and n s foun out u chiefly by f reig ve el , by the Japa e e (after they d the val e of n m w n w or no n ou ous t o 1 874 om the a i al , hich they k e little thi g ab t previ ) fr n n stations on shore and latterly from schoo ers u der the Japanese flag . A ou sea- o s ns in Lon on m f om £1 5 t o £2 10 each lth gh tter ki the d arket realize r , o n to u s n m h as n so u in num s and i s ne w so acc rdi g q ality, thi a i al bee red ced ber ,

u of o un n om ss no on a s . diffic lt appr ach , that h ti g it fr a ve el l ger p y Th e state of affairs to which the Kuril Islands are now red uced in regard to fur s s and sea- o s m n ff n and s oo s eal tter ight have bee very di ere t , the eal r kerie s and m a s n sou of nu n s G o nm n pre erved de a la ti g rce reve e, had the Japa e e ver e t n x o m Th e G o nm n no one t m taken proper mea s t o e pl it the . ver e t have o bla e b u t ‘ m n fli ls T m f m n on w as to the sel ves a d their own o cia . i e a ter ti e their atte ti called the m o n of m b ut n ow n t o u n t o m o an i p rta ce the atter, appare tly, i g their rel cta ce e pl y y o n s to m n us n ss or u on or t o ow m t o s f reig er a age the b i e give advice p it, all the lea e

of n s s . or to n s in us n ss w n s the right taki g eal , etc , be i tere ted the b i e ith Japa e e , the opportunity to secure the only benefit the G overnment were ever likely t o m un o un n w Ru ss h as o b n s f r obtain fro their f rt ate bargai ith ia pr ba ly bee lo t o ever . W ou o n ss s n and n s nno m n s n ith t f reig a i ta ce advice the Japa e e ca t a age thi i dustry . T o and o n b ut x m n s w s n hey have tried it ver ver agai , their e peri e t have al ay e ded s s u u n i n di a tro s fail re a d loss. Th e sea- otters of the Kuril Islands are particularly fi ne ; some of the hand somest s ns w find w a n o Lon on m t n ki hich their y i t the d arket are ake there . The favourite haunts of thi s animal are ofi the rocky points and reefs where

i s n fu . Th e n s and P s of s n s m s f u d kelp ple ti l e d the acific ide the i la d are o t req ente . n O o s or no - w s s s of n s i n O the kh t k rth e t ide the i sla d it s rarely that a otter is found . The sons for s o P or sou - s s i s rea thi are, pr bably, that the acific th ea t ide the lee s u n s w n and s n w and not so t o ide d ri g the evere i ter pri g eather, they are liable be

- m m i n field s . In summ t oo i s o s us off n he ed by ice the er, , it the f ggy ide, th eri g them greater protection from their h uman enemie s. Th e foo of sea- o w i ons s s o f sea- u ns s sea- s d the tter, hich ch efly c i t rchi , crab , apple , i s w un n on s n s u i n mm ns - field s etc . , every here ab da t the i la d , partic larly the i e e kelp , G 3 8 T N THE K I I N 6 NO ES O UR L SLA DS. on w o w n un s u o s to and o n of hich the tter, he di t rbed, l ve lie be r cked by the heavi g o n s w the cea ell . Af o of s om n un o s s oo u i n ter a peri d re t fr bei g h ted , the tter ch l p the kelp s Fo m w as not unusu t o in w s oo s of w n to o patche . r erly it al fall ith ch l t e ty ver

un or m o b ut now i s s t o see o n o . a h dred re, it a rare ight a d ze t gether Du n un n s son o s mos off s o om 5 t o 1 5 m s ri g the h ti g ea the tter lie tly h re, fr ile - m n w om n . T om in to s i n s o w a d a ay fr the la d hey c e the kelp patche t r y eather,

so n t o n n o . al at ight feed , leavi g agai bef re daylight

- Th e sea o is not o mous . Th e f m as u o u s b ut one tter p lyga e ale, a r le, pr d ce at a w n now n Th e w h ad om un h is birth ; b u t instances of t o have bee k . riter c e der o s on one s u s w n t wo o us s w a n om wom of b ervati ch ca e, he f et e ere t ke fr the b a dead o . Th e o d o s not w to v t o i t s oun b ut usu tter tter e leave the ater gi e birth y g, ally

- s s for u os . O n ow oun one i s o n in eek a kelp patch the p rp e fte , h ever, the y g b r the o n sea . Th e m i s mu t o oun and w n un w in pe fe ale ch attached her y g, he h ted ill cl g “ t o un sh e i s or w oun or un u i s own it til killed badly ded , til the p p dr ed by her ’ ons n n W n n u is . in i ts m mou c ta t divi g he divi g, the p p carried other s th by the s n of n and w n on su f u i s on ki at the back the eck ; he the r ace , the p p carried the ’ mo s s sh e sw mm n on w i s u su os on of an o ther brea t, i i g her back, hich the al p iti tter w n w he above ater . “ Th e sea- otter h as no particular breeding season ; pups of all ages are m et w i Th e o of s on is not n w n ith n every month of the year . peri d ge tati k o n for certai Th e sea- o w neither i s the age at which the female commences to breed . tter ill not in and i t is of su sh n u oo o o tun s of live captivity, ch a y at re that g d pp r itie an - s ff observing its habits d life hi tory are rarely if ever o ered .

- Th e of sea o i s of eat b u t som w s . In un n cry the tter like that a , e hat har her h ti g ” ’ an o t n u mo s w o u s is ons n ter carryi g her p p, the ther hereab t c ta tly betrayed by the w n on me i g of the little e . Th e sea- otter h as us ually been hun ted on this side the Pacific from schooners E i m n or si x m en n u n n o s . o s n carryi g three b at ach b at a ed by five , i cl di g the

- un wh o s n s i n h ow on oo out m w . In fine w h ter, ta d the the l k ar ed ith a rifle eather W n a o s ss o l h and s out i n n . n o i s the b at leave the ve el bef re day ig t, pread li e he tter s n s n is n and o s u os ons som 600 or 800 s ee a ig al give , the b at take p p iti e yard apart E m o om s t o in o m of n o n ns . the f r a tria gle , the tter bei g i ide ach ti e the tter c e the s u t o i s n s o o s o ow n o rface breathe he fired at by the eare t b at , the ther f ll i g if the tter o s not m m As soon as s s o s s so as t o d e dive i ediately . he di appear , the b at are hifted again have the animal w ithin the triangle w hen he once more rises to breathe . As o s and h is s om s o o s u s n w n the tter tire dive bec e h rter, the b at red ce their di ta ce, he sooner or later the otter is killed. Th e w mus m and sea u smoo or run of o eather t be cal the q ite th, the the tter nno W n n un o s so low in w on us ca t be kept. he bei g h ted , the tter lie the ater, ly j t x os n its mu i s u t o see and off s b ut sm m for e p i g zzle, that it diffic lt , er a very all ark O s on an o i s s s o b ut now and n s on a rifle. cca i ally tter killed the fir t h t, the a tr g n un n n f ow wi one or two On one o s on w a d c i g ell ll take hours to get . cca i the riter “ saw an o run for ou ou s u n w m n ou un s o s tter f r h r , d ri g hich ti e early f r h dred h t An o w of n s w l w ere fired . tter ill te get out side the boat ; he i l then generally go s w n few s on s s mon Th e ne es o t n traight a ay, breachi g every ec d like a al . ar t b a the s u s o ow n i n h is w and n m o take p the cha e, f ll i g right ake , firi g every ti e the tter

s w . The o two o s o ow one on ea u of n o break ater ther b at f ll , ch q arter the leadi g b at, DD 87 A ENDA.

” Th e o n u m and and about 600 yards astern. tter will eve t ally ake a back dive

- om u w n o s n. To S o sm n sea o un n off s one c e p bet ee the b at agai a p rt a , tter h ti g er o f th e mos x n and s n n of u To su ssfu un i t i s t e citi g fa ci ati g p rsuits. be a cce l h ter n ss to oo s o . It so u s ons u m n oo ece ary be a g d h t al req ire c iderable j dg e t, a g d eye , sm n ss n oo now of h s of o and art e , patie ce , a c l head , a k ledge the abit the tter, a s on ons u on An m n n s to x st t o u su of tr g c tit ti . ele e t that te d give e tra ze the p r it o - un n is tw n o s E one n u s to s u tter h ti g the rivalry be ee the b at . ach at rally like ec re o b ut no one mus o ou t of o os on and no un is su os the tter, t g the pr per p iti , h ter pp ed t o s o n f n i n m u n Th p il the cha ce o a other a ore favo rable position by firi g first . e “ ” un s i s o o on of w o not o n h ter are paid by a lay, that , a pr p rti the h le catch, acc rdi g n to what each i divid ual hunter kills himself. Since 187 3 fifty - t wo vessels have been engaged in hunting the sea- otter on this s P i n w s n t o Ku Is n s . Th e s ide the acific, chiefly the ater adjace t the ril la d large t n m an n w Som of s ss s w out f om u ber i n y o e year was t elve . e the e ve el ere fitted r

- San F n s o and o s om n. Of s fi ft two ss s n ra ci c , ther fr Japa the e y ve el thirtee have S n n o s been lost with all hands ( t en on this side and three el sewhere) . eve tee ther (twelve on this side and five elsewhere) have been wrecked with loss of t welve

s . F e n s and on s Russ n u s s and ou n live ive have b e eized c fi cated by ia cr i er , f rtee us n ss ou w n of su ss n b u t w now un have left the b i e thr gh a t cce , leavi g three hich h t s w s Two of s n s and one o n Th e ss s m o the e ater . the e are Japa e e f reig . ve el e pl yed

- usu s oon s of 35 to 100 ons n ws of w n t o w n fiv e m en. are ally ch er t , carryi g cre t e ty t e ty An u sea- o w m su ou 4 i n n and w ou 60 or ad lt tter ill ea re ab t feet le gth , eigh ab t

70 lb s. Th e s n is m oos on o and w n s t and ki re arkably l e the b dy, he tre ched n out on woo n m t o - w m su om 85 t o 90 n s i n ailed a de fra e be air dried, ill ea re fr i che

n and om 32 t o 36 n s i n w . Th e i s ou 1 0 n s on . le gth, fr i che idth tail ab t i che l g Th e A u s and o n un s us u s n o s on oun le t ther ative h ter ally ki their tter the r d , is an n s on i s m u n s and ou h nus and that , i ci i ade p the hi d flipper thr g the a , the s n d wn off o It i s n s of s uff w som n t o ki ra ver the head . the dive ted fat , t ed ith ethi g “ ” s and - W un s s n o s n keep it tretched, air dried . hite h ter ki their tter by rippi g m u om end of on l t o un li n u the p fr the the tail al g the be ly the der p , the p each d aw an so s out . p flipper, that they take perfectly flat “ A n n fat s ou t s n i s n i s . fter bei g taked the ki lea ed , that , the adhere t , etc , is cut n off. Th e s n i s n x os to sun n s t o clea ly ki the e p ed the , the pelt bei g craped as m u oil ou t of s It i s o n m u n u and get ch it as po sible. left the fra e til q ite dry

w w n i s n ff. Th ur is n n u and s n ut w . hite, he it take o e f the beate p the ki p a ay Th e s ns s nt t o n ki are e the London market i n this co dition. Th e s of sea- o i s n and unsu to b ut fle h the tter very ra k ited a civilized palate, m n of no n n s i t to an o s a y the rther ative prefer y ther fle h . In Yetoru and Kun s n s ous t o x n ns on p a hir the Japa e e, previ their e cha ge tra acti Russ ad os K Is n s w s ss s and mos u of u . ith ia, alre y p e ed the large t t val able the ril la d For s s s n s now of b u t m o n few s and ox s peltrie the e i la d are little i p rta ce, a bear f e , w an o s on sea - o on n n Fo m o s w n u ith cca i al tter, ly bei g take . r erly tter ere very ple tif l off o s of Yetoru and mo n n n om o the c a t p, re have bee take there tha fr all the ther s an s ut o T n n w on nuous i l d p t gether. hey have bee n killed off a d drive a ay by c ti u n h nti g . The u of s s n s s in s s All s ms and s val e the e i la d lie the fi herie . their trea lake m w h s mon and ou w s off th e o s s cod n iwash i u and tee it al tr t, hil t c a t , herri g, , halib t, o fi sh oun ther ab d . 88 NOTE ON THE K RI I AND S U L SL S.

Salmon and salmon- trout fi shing i s pretty vigorously prosecuted on Yet orup m ns u s and Kun s . I m n n ou s and s to a hir e e q a titie are take , r ghly alted , hipped the m n- nn n o h as n u A s o e s s n . m so th . al ca i g fact ry b e e tabli hed at Sha a So e cod fish u Yetoru b ut not in nu m s n n on n n are ca ght at p, large ber , early all atte ti bei g give t o u of s m on and s lmon- t ou the capt re al a r t . On Kunashir and the Yez o coast immense quantities of herri ng and i wash i n f r H n n of s n n b ut ot o oo . u s of ons of s fi sh (a ki d ardi e) are take , f d dred t the e are i nd fus Th e oil i s o i n s and cau ght and boiled down for their o l a re e . s ld to fore g er sh oa and us h a su i s s n t o sou and so a s ipped abr d, the ref e, called , e t the th ld a

- d sea- o ns fl ound ers sm s n fu t l H u o co . b u ferti izer. alib t , r ck , r bi , , elt , etc , are ple ti l , D n s s n they are almost entirely neglected . uri g some eason one or t wo stream s e f r s mon- ou Ur up are fished o al tr t . P s n no fish on Ku Isl n s w n U u and ractically peaki g, there are the ril a d bet ee r p

ram u sh ir d Shu msh ir u od - n s u On o n. Off Pa an c ek ta there are val able ba k , halib t n fu n s m s on n mon and ou T s and o fi sh a d s . ther are ple ti l , the trea c tai al tr t he e

s n s ow o n u t n . i la d , h ever, have hithert bee q i e eglected Althou gh the sealing and sea- otter hunting on the Kurils are practically no on w o ons n s o n us s w ou inau u l ger rth c ideri g , there are everal ther i d trie hich c ld be g and w o on u d wou a o s rated , hich , if pr perly c d cte , ld yield l rge pr fit .

90 IND $ E .

F ureb ets 12 59 , , on ro 7 1 L g ck, uss P aramush i r 7 F p k, , , 7 7 o 81 82 ea L patka, cape, , Low o n 7 9 p i t, Low o 7 1 r ck, um nous ou 48 L i cl d , G s 46 ale , G ani mush ir, 80 G o o s o of s n s 3 e l gical hi t ry the i la d , G o o n s l , 7 0 Ma i ru vi trait ppo, 17 G u s 33 62 ll , , M ai ru o 7 9 0 pp bay , , 8 M akan ruru, 64 M akanru sh r i , 7 5 Makoi mai , 59 H arukaru 4 , , 56 mm s 26 Ma al , n , c 7 6 7 7 u 69 He ry ape , , Mata , H itok apu mou n ns and 57 58 M atsu a hama 55 tai bay , , g bay, H to o ko moun a ns 57 ons 22 t i , Migrati , H ot s n s 8 pri g , n moun ns Simushi r 6 7 Mil e tai , , , , n of sso Mil e , Pr e r J 2 M oh e ki oh i , 59 M oi moto 53 5 , cape, , 7 M o e ru y , 59 us s and o s 7 1 M hir trait r ck ,

Nad e d a s 69 j trait, N o 59 aib , N o b a 5 aih y , 7 N on 4 avigati , 7 J n s 1 12 et se apa e e, , q. Ne mo 5 bay, 7 N mo moun 7 4 e , t, K Nob unots 60 , cape, Noish af 4 53 55 , cape, , , Kamchatd ales , 17 , 18 m f , o m onn on W Ka chatka r er c ecti ith , 2 m u n 4 Ka chatka c rre t, 7 7 6 7 7 Kapari, cape, , O o 59 Keramoi 53 , , cape, it o 6 O ots sea of 49 5 1 Ket i , 6 kh k , , , Oneb ets 2 o s 6 , 1 , 5 8 Ket i trait, 7 On o n 7 4 Kh ari mkhotan 7 3 ek ta , , ’ O om b a 2 m 7 5 y , 7 Ki berley, cape, t e Kinkasa O f 7 2 n, 5 1 tter ree , Ow s 3 Kokskar o 80 l , 7 r ck, - O KOTO Ok- a r ya S wo u n 47 49 50 p g u, 24 hi c rre t, , , ' Kosh i to, 24 Kotanimush i r, 80 un s nn 50 5 6 K a hir cha el , , un s i s n 4 8 53 K a hir la d, , , Para mush ir 7 6 , u st 81 K ril rait, Pa rka 2 0 , u o S wo u r n h , 47 a 8 1 K r i c r e t Pervi , c pe, us o 49 K hir , s n 7 9 Pervi i la d , e s 34 Petr l , P etro aulovski 1 p , 8, 7 6 s 7 5 Piati trait, s 37 Lark , o s 50 57 Pic trait, , -s m 7 3 Lava trea , nn s o n 7 9 Pi acle p i t, Levash ff a - e , , 7 9 w n c pe d ll s, 19, 25 ' Pit e i g Levash e fi moun , , 7 7 o s 35 t Pl ver , o n L l j h , , 7 5 o u on 12 itt e cape P p lati , uri s L l l , 79, 80 o T no 18 6 1 itt e K trait P rt ava , , 9 1 INDE$ .

os and b a 65 Prev t peak y, udi n s n 7 0 P i la d,

Raikoke, 7 0

Rash au. 69 moi 5 Ta ne , 9 Reb untsirib oi, 62 T u 4 56 R on 1 arak , , l , 7 e igi - T m u of sea w , 5 1 Re waus 54 e perat re ater i, , cape Te si c o 57 Ro n s 2 , cape , d , 7 e t T s 7 8 Ro o moun ns 57 hird trait, k , tai T - s 50 57 60 Ro u 58 ide rip , , k y, ba T s 49 R ide , ous , 59 e T m t s 42 R us moun i ber ree , o , 8, 53 , 54 e t T s 36 R it , ub e ts, 59 To o-s m 56 Russ n-Am n om n 1 d hi a, y, , ia erica C pa Tom ' 53 Russ ns n s on b 1 16 ari , ia , i va i y , , Tosh i mori , 58, 59

Toshi ure , 59 T 18 rade, T s 7 8 reti trait, l 1 Sagh a in, , 83 S o 60 ail r ck, ’ St An on s a 54 . th y pe k,

St . w n s nd 5 1 La re ce i la , St w s n 5 1 . Matthe i la d, S n - un s 7 3 82 a d d e , , S n s 35 a dpiper , S fow 8 29 68 78 80 ea l, , , , , S s s 83 eal fi herie , S o 7 1 eal r ck, S s and se a- ons 27 83 84 eal li , , , Sea - o s 27 59 85 —87 Vo an u ons of 7 tter , , , lc ic er pti , table , S sons 45 Vo n nom n 5 ea , lca ic phe e a, S w s 42 56 Vo n n s n s of 2 ea eed , , lca ic ve t , li e , S ewe rsi 6 0 V s 60 , cape, rie , cape, S o n ou 55 hak ta harb r, S n 59 ha a, S an s of 17 h a, ca tle , Sh e sto s 7 4 trait, h S i ashkotan, 7 1 Sh i ash kotan s 73 trait, S o o 59 hibet r , Sh ib otsu , 4 , 5 6 S o n 4 55 hik ta , , S o n nn 56 hik ta cha el, S s su u m n s 3 hi hiki lph r i e , 5 Sh rinki , 7 8 Sh um h s i r, 80 Yerimo 49 , cape, Simush i r 64 Ye toru 4 7 57 , p , , , Si rotoko n nsu 2 Yetoru s 60 pe i la, p trait, S x s 7 4 Y z o fo m onn on Wl lh 2 i th trait, e , r er c ecti , Sno w- s o s 24 Y z o s 53 h e , e trait, Sred noi s and f 50 68 Yu u 4 56 trait ree , , r , , S 57 take bay,

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