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Nepali/Dhaka topi has been adorning to discover more about the Dhaka talks about the writer’s experience Nepali heads for generations. A topi as a part of Nepali culture. It on her Dipankha Yatra, while Dance cloth cap that Nepali men wear on also talks about the oldest Dhaka of the Deities is about the dance of their heads is perhaps the most topi shop of Nirmal Tuladhar in Ason. Astamatrika performed in Patan. All recognizable feature that sets a Of course, the December 2013 over, this ‘Made in Nepal’ December Nepali man apart from all others. issue of ECS NEPAL is not only 2013 issue is worth going through Read the feature, Put a Cap on It, that. The feature, Yatra for the Bull, once again. Contents August 2016 l Issue 177

21 Living In Nepal Five things to do in Nepal Food Nimki a fiery delight What I’ ve seen A Man’s Vintage Friend Culture Crimson dots of faith 32 Muse The art Art in Dolakha The journey A Homage to the Maestro 81 Travel Destination Why You Need to go to Dolpo Experience Nepal for the discerning traveler 101 Adventure Experience Travel Kathmandu and Pokhara in just one week

Rain, Mist and 66Ropai The misty season of rain and rice is actually just a layering on top, if you cut deep, you will realize that it is the essence of hard work that Ropai is celebrating. Photo story

Spilled Ink Feature Customer Helpline No. 118 Rules for Hunting Yetis Khokhana’s Famed Tori-ko-tel 9801299000 46 One can pick up the aroma of mustard oil cooking We endorse the recycling of our hundreds of feet away in Khokhana. It’s evident that Bath n Room Trade Concern Pvt. Ltd. Bath 'N' Room Trade Concern Pvt. Ltd. Bath 'N' Room Trade Concern Pvt. Ltd.. magazine and would encourage at first, you will find yourself following the strong Tara Bhawan, Ground Floor, Near Prakash Pharmacy Charumati Bhawan (Opp. to Om Hospital) Chhapro, Pepsicola, Kathmandu, Nepal you to pass it on to others to read scent to gradually transcend to your own memories Teku, Tripureshwor, Kathmandu, Nepal Chabahil, Kathmandu, Nepal Tel : +977- 1- 4240610 when you have finished with it. of tori-ko-tel. Tel: +977- 1- 4240610 Tel: +977- 1- 4810778 Mobile: +977-9802015101 Main Branch Mobile: +977-9802015888 Other Branches Mobile: +977-9802015333 Website: www.bathnroom.com l Email: [email protected] Contents l august 2016 Issue 177

40 Feature Innovation in Education Fair In the first week of August, local organizations active in Nepal are coming together to transform educational practices and learning through the Innovation in Education Fair. Here is an account of participating groups and why this initiative needs to be heeded to and celebrated.

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W W SUBSCRIBER COPY call/sms: 9851047233 SUBSCRIBER COPY Tori-ko-tel in making. (Sajana Shrestha) e-mail: [email protected] Customer Helpline No. 9801299000 Our sister publications Bath n Room Trade Concern Pvt. Ltd. Bath 'N' Room Trade Concern Pvt. Ltd. Bath 'N' Room Trade Concern Pvt. Ltd.. Tara Bhawan, Ground Floor, Near Prakash Pharmacy Charumati Bhawan (Opp. to Om Hospital) Chhapro, Pepsicola, Kathmandu, Nepal Teku, Tripureshwor, Kathmandu, Nepal Chabahil, Kathmandu, Nepal Tel : +977- 1- 4240610 Tel: +977- 1- 4240610 Tel: +977- 1- 4810778 Mobile: +977-9802015101 Main Branch Mobile: +977-9802015888 Other Branches Mobile: +977-9802015333 Website: www.bathnroom.com l Email: [email protected] [ august 2016 ]

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Hit The Trail Janai GaiJatra Purnima When: 13 August, 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Saturday, 7:00 am onwards Where:Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park,Sundarijal,Nepal g]kfnL r'nf] 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 NEPALI CHULO 28 29 30 31 Cultural Program Nightly Fine traditional Nepali & Newari Dining International Cuisine/American, Mexican, Indian & Continental Lunch & Dinner Party, Seminar and Banquet Facilities Tel: 01-4002009/01-4418206 Brought to you by Lazimpat, Kathmandu, Nepal Web: www.nepalichulo.com | email: [email protected] Photographer Viewfinder Binaya Mangrati Nepal through your eyes Profile : I am a Freelance cinematographer. I am passionate about traveling and capturing memorable sights found along my journey.

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Tell us about the things you have seen and the places you have been to. Send us your clicks that depict any dimension of the Nepali way and we might publish them in this section. Direct your entries to [email protected] with your name, a short biography, your profile picture and the description of the photograph you’ve sent in.

18 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 August 2016 | ECS NEPAL 19 LivingInNepal Things to do l FOOD l FESTIVAL WATCH l CULTURE

Commonly known as Chameri Gufa, the bat cave both in Pokhara and Kath- mandu is popular destination among not just tourists, but nationals as well. As the name suggests, it is named after the bats prevalent all over the cave's walls and ceilings. The cave is made things completely of limestone. The tour has provisions for torches and emergency to do in lamps, and a professional guide will be with you for a safe and thrilling 5 Nepal experience. Said to be the holi- 2 est month of the year, Shrawan is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Every Somwar (Mon- day) of this month, known as Shrawan Somwar, is a very special day in Shiva temples. Hindu women are clad in red and green clothing. This month is also famous for mehendi (henna) that women and young Vintage Vespa scoot- girls cover their hands and 4 ers have become palms with. The main idea of quite popular in the city the various rituals and fasts that these days. Due to this, Vespa women take every Monday is to Valley has started a tour ride pray for the long and prosper- where one has the opportuni- ous life of their husbands. Also, ty to get chauffeur-driven on young unmarried women pray a vintage Vespa to all the big that they find good and car- sites and local favorites. This ing husbands. Bangles are an tour takes you on food jour- important aspect of Shrawan; neys, culinary classes, and women of all ages are seen even gives people a chance to wearing them. It is believed experience village life. that bangles, especially green glass ones, are worn for fulfill- ing one’s desires, and wishing a happy and prosperous life to families. This month also paves the way for women to enter the month of Bhadra that holds the most important festival for Hindu women in Nepal, Teej.

Strongly recom- 3 mended by Trip Ad- visor, para-hawking is a form of paragliding, but with a twist. You get to interact with trained birds of prey in their natural environment. Combining paragliding and the ancient art of falconry, you fly with fully trained birds that guide you through the sky. There are currently two trained Egyptian vul- tures, Kevin and Bob, who will lead you through the best thermals, soar across the sky, climb above mountains, and slowly land on Gai Jatra falls in the procession in which they walk to criticize and satire the govern- your hands to take food 5 month of Bhadra (Au- through the streets of Kath- ment and the system. Various rewards many times through- gust/September). The main mandu leading a cow. comedy shows, acts, and dramas out the flight. You can take idea of this festival is to worship However, modern day Gai are organized in different places, amazing pictures and mov- Yamaraj, the god of death. Ev- Jatra has come to be quite dif- including on television and radio. ies of your flight. It is truly ery family that has had a death ferent than what we started out Special edition of newspapers are a unique and unforgettable among its members during the with. Today, it has become a day also published on this day with experience. preceding year participates in a when people are given the liberty cartoon and comedy articles.

22 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 August 2016 | ECS NEPAL 23 Nimki Food A Fiery Delight Reminiscing nimki, the savory snack that has a special place in every festive Nepali’s palette.

Sachi Mulmi

in Nepali culture. What distin- val or social function. It was also guishes it on the dinner table, a favorite breakfast and snack amongst other regular cheerful item among them. delights, is its fiery orange color 73-year-old Bindira Rajkarni- that is a statement onto itself. kar has been working in sweet You can recognize it from afar in shops since she was a little girl a sweet shop, stacked in a perfect of nine. She still runs a small pile, waiting to be bagged and shop in the Maru Galli of Patan, consumed happily. offering insights into our (sweet) This snack occupies such a history. She hints how the sweet pervasive presence in our cer- shops in the main Durbar Square emonies mainly because of its area are originally from the same namesake characteristic. In a fes- line, but have since followed their tive palette which is dominated own business. She remembers by sweets, nimki is the salty one. those specific days of our lunar It provides a much-appreciated calendar, like mother’s day and relief to our taste buds. For mar- father’s day, when the shop riage ceremonies, it is used as would overflow with sweets and a colorful decoration when the people. groom sends a host of gifts along “But there are more people to with sweets to the bride. buy and eat these sweets. Con- Traditionally snacks and suming it is no longer limited to sweets such as nimki were pre- affluent people (like the Ranas),” pared by the Rajkarnikars. There she shares. The only thing to are considerably few Rajkarni- have changed is the quality of kars making sweets as their main these sweets, for resources are occupation these days. However, scarce to meet the traditional he anticipatory ex- those who remain have much to standards. Despite that, nimkis citement for festivals share – with both their extensive are still popular and consumed starts weeks before knowledge of making sweets, eagerly. they are occasioned and the stories that such an ex- In Newari sweet culture, the and leave behind a perience gives. lakhamari is considered the fa- Ttrail of good things - mostly Although Rajkarnikars in vorite, but nimkis have a variety memories, laughter and sump- Patan are unsure about the ex- and a place of their own. Sweets tuous food. The one food item act description of nimki’s origin like pantusha, khaaja (punjabi), that trails longer than most and story and place, they say that the dui rang, fini, etc, are all nimki’s is a must have festive favorite is recipe has been in their family cousins, made diverse by the the triangular shaped delicacy “for generations.” What they do color play, geometric structure, called nimki. The slightly salty know is that this creation made and even the sweetness. But they and sweet mouthful, that pairs out of clarified butter, flour, salt are made with almost the same perfectly with a cup of warm and food-coloring has never lost technique. tea shared with your family or its popularity amid the valley So next time you pass by a friends. residents. In the old days, Ranas sweet shop, give nimkis a second Nimkis are a ubiquitous part ordered huge numbers of sweets, thought and maybe take them of every festival and ceremony including nimkis, for every festi- home for snacktime!

24 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 A Man’s What I’ ve seen Vintage Friend You don’t stop riding when you are old; you get old when you stop riding.

vanshika shah

he adage ‘old is gold’ he worked as a senior health There was, of course, some perfectly fits the occa- worker. He has collected diverse initial hesitation on his part. He sion when it comes to experience helping and treating was used to cycling for a long 73 year old Mr. Asta patients in remote regions of time and the motorbike seemed Bir Maharjan and his Gorkha and Nuwakot where like a big change. But eventually Tstill older vintage bike. Maharjan electricity was scant and the as he rode around for a while, is a loving husband and father roads were difficult to walk on. he fell in love with it. I will nei- to two sons and as many daugh- His indomitable spirit towards ther sell nor let anyone sell my ters. This grandfather of four, living life to the fullest has un- bike, he says. He mentions how however, is a lesson to many doubtedly been molded by his men get emotionally attached to much younger to him for his early life experiences. On the 8th things as they gradually become vitality, spirit and passion. His of Paush in 2056 B.S. his sons a part of their life. So much so, life mantra is quite simple and gifted him a Honda Vintage bike that the bike has now become yet one which we easily forget: bought from a friend who had a part of Maharjan’s identity. life is full of ups and downs but acquired it a month ago at an When people see the bike parked people tend to want only ups and auction hosted by the UN. around, they immediately recog- no downs. The winner is the one I met Maharjan and his son, nize his presence. He proudly who handles the downsides well. Indra Bir Maharjan for an in- boasts that wherever he takes Maharjan served the govern- terview, on a fine Thursday his bike people flock around to ment as a health post in-charge morning, at his pharmacy which admire it. He even worships the till the age of thirty after which he runs in Pulchowk along with bike every Dashain with great serving as a general physician devotion and sentiments. there. Outside the shop I saw Maharjan can talk for hours an exquisitely designed reddish the myriad memories that he orange bike parked up in all associates with his bike, like its glory. Even though the bike experiences gathered with a dear was bought seventeen years ago, friend. He mentions the troubles it looked well maintained and they bore during the recent oil seemed brand new. embargo in Kathmandu valley, A believer in simplicity, until when his mere 3L petrol tank recently Maharjan use to ride would empty every now and between his home and the shop then. He would have to refuel it on a bicycle. His sons, concerned great hardships. He reminisces about his age, wanted to gift him the times he would set his wife a motorbike. Maharjan being behind him and take her for her short in height and frail due to his medical appointments. His wife age, they understood that he will feeling awkward sitting on the not be able to ride the modern bike and him trying to make her bulky models that were available comfortable. for purchase. Once they found Maharjan’s story reminded about their friend wanting to sell a me of cherishing the small things vintage auctioned bike they imme- in life and making a moment out diately got interested. The height of all life experiences. It tells of this bike is low and makes Ma- me that things over time do not harjan feel comfortable riding it. simple get old and scrappy but The long body of the bike allows sometimes they are witnesses to him to carry his medical around our fondest memories and thus which is something he seems to become classics instead. Just like cherish quite a bit. Asta Bir Maharjan’s vintage bike.

26 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 Culture Crimson dots of faith Call it a beauty mark, the spiritual third eye, a sign of devotion to gods or a symbol of matrimony, the tika is a much celebrated and integral part of Hindu religious practice.

DAYISHAA Daga

o to a temple and what is the one thing you will see common among the people? GApart from voices swaying cer- emoniously in meditational chant and the devotion and love towards the higher self in people’s eyes, the one thing that is characteristically shared by Hindu devotees, is the dot on their foreheads, the anoint- ment of the crimson tika. Call it a beauty mark, the spiritual third eye, a sign of devotion to gods or a symbol of matrimony, the tika is a much celebrated and tival of bhai tika, a day celebrated places include the forehead, the integral part of Hindu religious by brothers and sisters, though, we throat, the heart, the stomach, practice. Made of dried turmeric, see a tika of different colors etched two shoulders, arms, and so on. the tika symbolizes purity of linearly on their foreheads. Each time a mark is applied, submission and devotion. Interest- The tika is at once, a symbol the name of a particular deity is ingly, the tradition of putting the of worship and religious omen recited. This touching, marking, tika is not mentioned in the vedas giving it important significance and evocation brings the effect and puranas even once. Yet, it has in the daily practice of the Hindu of consecration to the body and always served its purpose as an culture. The tika is considered the the individual. The practice of embedded ritual in the daily lives point at which creation began. It putting the tika usually follows of Hindu devotees. has also been described as “the after offering prayers or religious Not being prescribed in re- sacred symbol of the cosmos in its ceremonies. For devotees who ligious texts gives the tika its unmanifested state”. Traditionally, pray at home every day, the variable form, a new kind of tika the area between the eyebrows is tika is a customary part of their depending on region, culture and said to be the sixth chakra, the appearance. Religious practice occasion. The small red tika worn ajna, the seat of “concealed wis- permits the tika to be put only everyday especially by women, a dom”. Applied in the center of the after one has taken a bath and big red one covering a handsome forehead close to the eyebrow, the cleansed the body. Sanctification portion of the forehead (mostly tika anoints the Ajna Chakra and of the soul, after all demands seen during dashain), a white tika thus is considered to be associated bodily hygiene as well. (the shiva tilaka), an orange tika with the third eye chakra. The tika The symbolic little dot carried worn by devotees of the monkey is said to focus energy and increase by devotees on their forehead god and a yellow tika. On the fes- concentration. It is also known to comes to contain within itself be the circle or dot around which a vast sea of spiritual devotion. the mandala is created; a spiritual What to the foreign eye may be symbol, a symbol of nirvana. The perceived as mere ornamenta- dot is meant to denote the center tion, is a ritual of faith for the point for one’s spiritual destiny devotee. It is a practice to obtain and serve as a medium for per- spiritual sanctity, a means to con- sonal sanctification. nect with the gods, the method There are twelve spots in the to awaken the third eye and the body where the tika can be applied goodness within. It is a crimson after bathing, though it is not a dot of faith that all of this can, af- common practice to do so. These ter all, be realized and achieved.

28 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 the top, believed to be the flag that Indra received from Lord Vishnu for protection. Next, the When it Rains for Swet Bhairab statue is unveiled, where alcohol like jaand and raksi pours from its mouth. This Festival watch Bhairab is only showcased during the Parijat Indra Jatra. Individuals dressed as demons portraying lakheys More than a year after the earthquake, Kathmandu valley prepares for its perform mythical acts denoted yearly celebration of the Rain God’s search for the rare Parijat flower and through a symbolic dance. A stream of young men come run- a promise that followed. ning followed by an elaborately decorated team dressed as a white elephant, which is known aKANKSHYA Shrestha as Tana-Kishi. ndra Jatra, an eight-day-long After the initial proceedings,

festival, takes place during the living goddess, Kumari, sits Pradip Tuladhar Bhadra, the 5th month on her chariot, which is pulled of the Nepali calendar. through the massive crowds. The carnival-like days pass Indra Jatra is the only time the Iquickly with worship, proces- Kumari leaves the seclusion sions, dance, and music. Indra of her temple. Carnations are Jatra was started by King Gu- thrown by the spectators as they nakamadeva to commemorate enjoy the ‘lakhey naach’ and the founding of the city of Kath- kumari’s procession. Crowds Since Indra is ‘Lord of Rain’ and the king mandu in the 10th century. Since gather to watch the Indra Jatra Indra is ‘Lord of Rain’ and the from the temples of Kathmandu of heaven, some think that the Jatra is held king of heaven, some think that Durbar Square or from the the Jatra is held to thank him for houses at Maru Tole. Since many to thank him for the rain. Others believe the rain. Others believe that it is temples got damaged during the that it is celebrated in honor of Bhairab, a celebrated in honor of Bhairab, a earthquake, the surface of some manifestation of Shiva. temples above the stairs will offer manifestation of Shiva. A year has passed since the very good view of the Jatra. dreadful earthquake in Nepal, There are many stories behind tantric scholar, caught Indra the flowers he was supposed to and Kathmandu has learned the celebration. One story goes trying to steal the parijat flower bring, Indra’s mother herself to smile again. Last year, Indra like this: Indra’s mother needed and instantly spread his spiritual came down to earth in search of Jatra was celebrated as joyously parijat flowers, which were no- loop called Taraan, and encircled him. She went around town and as before, despite the devastation where to be found in heaven. So, Indra within it. Indra could not found her son in the tantric’s caused by the earthquake. The Indra came down to Kathmandu move beyond that Taraan. When web, who finally freed him only spirit of the city should be kept Valley to pick the flowers. A her son did not show up with after his mother had promised alive, the celebrations marked. timely rainfall in the valley. Since The damaged roads were re- then, the festival is observed in paired for the festival’s chariot Kathmandu to please Indra, so procession, and reconstruction that enough rain in the valley is of temples and monuments took assured. place. Now, almost a year after, On the last day, the pole Kathmandu is a much better erected to represent the Shiva place - in terms of infrastructure Linga is taken down. This marks and in terms of people’s morale the end of the Jatra. The festivity as well. The festival this year will and merriment bring a sense of be a celebration of much more relief for eight days to the people than just the traditional reasons. of Kathmandu. The process of The Jatra begins at Kath- rebuilding Nepal is ongoing, and mandu Durbar Square, with the people are finding strength several groups of local musi- to build back stronger with each cians arriving in the main area passing day. The festival of In- with drums and cymbals. A 36- dra Jatra bestows a few days of foot wooden ceremonial pole is strength and contentment into brought in to represent the Shiva their lives, and in the country at large. Linga, which includes a flag on Tuladhar Pradip

30 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 August 2016 | ECS NEPAL 31 what we do.”Under their social initiative involving the arts, an art-social movement “Healing through Art” was born after the disastrous earthquake of April 25, 2015. The purpose of the campaign was to reach out to TMusehe Arts l Local Listening l Pageturner various districts affected by the quakes and offer psychological healing and comfort along with The art reinforcing positivity and con- structiveness amongst the locals – all through colors and artistic activities. “I may not be able to do tough physical work but I Art in Dolakha can do something through my profession.” Shrestha believes. What happens when residents of a trembling community are made As a part of their initiative, the to rediscover art in their everyday life? Kailask K. Shrestha’s artistic Artudio team visited Dolakha experiments in Dolakha tell the story. too. As Dolakha is one of the gravely affected regions of the 7.8 creative activities at the center simulate the concept of “Haat magnitude earthquake in 2015, and brought a lot of positive Bazaar” where goods and daily Ichchha Pradhan all the houses, schools and health transformations within the com- commodities are exchanged; post were destroyed or heav- munity in Gairimudi. This is a only to bring it into the contem- rt workshops, ily damaged in the Gairimudi platform for children as well as porary context and modify it as Photography work- community. There were no safe adults to participate in various “Art Bazaar”, a platform for shops, Videogra- spaces for children nor adults activities which has now turned sharing and exchanging ideas. It phy, Visual editing, to support each other. With this into a regular Saturday morning would allow the local inhabitants Street art—all pack- reality, Artudio came up with the activity.These transformations to practice and perform different agedA together forms Artudio, vision of creating a safe haven for have inspired them to escalate form of arts—art, music, visual Centre for Visual Arts. This is the the community and supporting their initiative on a larger scale to arts, games and performance. center that initiated the Street them in their healing process. establish a permanent art center The goal is simple—complete ar- Arts movement on a large scale Gradually children from other in Gairimudi Ward 8. tistic transformation of Dolakha. in the year 2011 which took off villages started flooding in too This stimulus is on the verge Along with the aforesaid from the walls of Hotel Himalaya and started participating in the of transforming into a long term ongoing plans, Artudio has also and extended to various districts after-school recreational activi- plan to keep the connection of organized a short-term curated like Kathmandu, Pokhara, Tan- ties organized by the team. With Art and the Gairimudi Commu- residency, “Dolakha Album” in sen, Butwal, Dolakha, Jhapa, the increase in number of par- nity, as Artudio plans to build a Gairimudi, Dolakha. The Resi- Janakpur and Sarlahi. Currently, ticipants a more systematic and more facilitated, systematic and dency was curated by Contem- the center has its spotlight fo- diversified space was required. large Community Art Center, porary Artist Kailash K Shrestha cusedon the future generation – To address this a community art Center for Breathing Love in and co-curated by Nischal Oli. children of Nepal. The intention center was built using bamboos collaboration with the local, But why ‘Album’? “An album is to ensure that their creativity and other available material with national and international com- is where you find history of can be harnessed from a young the help of local participation. munities with open participation events. Similarly, we want to put age. As a part of this initiative Since then,Artudio has orga- in five years. The idea of this our artistic expressions too in a Artudio has been conducting nized several relief programs and Community Art Center is to documented form as history”, Little Picasso, an art workshop Shrestha answers. The motive for children and is on the verge of the residency is to bring art of launching a website called Bal to grass root communities so Kala Sangrahalaya, a virtual art that it is not centralized only in museum for kids.Art Saturday the capital city. Another purpose is another workshop under Ar- is to make the locals realize art tudio organized every Saturday in their simple surrounding and which caters to art enthusiasts influence them in a creative way of all ages. using locally accessible materials The artists involved with as art medium so that art can artudio do not only believe in be consumed by people of all promoting art but also in serving classes. it. Kailash K. Shrestha, founding During this residency, an artist of Artudio says, “We serve amalgam of five contemporary art. That’s what we know. That’s artists from Kathmandu— New

32 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 August 2016 | ECS NEPAL 33 The art

Media Artist- Mr.SujanDangol, Printmaking Artist -Mr. Suren- draMaharjan, Visual Artist- Ms. Sandhya Silwal, Sound based Multi Media Artist- Mr. Rajan Shrestha and Film Artist-Mr. Ab- himanyu Dixit worked collective- ly with Gairimudi Community people to create unconventional works of art. They were hosted by families in the community to be able to really live like a local and integrate into the society. These artists created works in diverse forms; video art, land art, photography, site specific instal- lations, new media and multime- a canvas for sketching portraits. When I was asked to weave the dia. Yet they were restricted on Used chocolate wrappers were pole I had similar questions. Now materials being introduced into used to create collage works. Artudio has helped me open my the community so as not to baffle An interesting instance was eyes to look at my profession in the local community with novel when a weaving artisan, Chhabi an artistic way. I would have also concepts. They were encouraged Bahadur Shrestha who has been become an artist if I had been to reintroduce materials existing weaving doko and funglo all his exposed to this idea when I was in villages as art materials and life was asked to weave bamboo young.” What was observed from made the community people over electric pole. Observers this experiment was that when realize art within things that they were dumbfounded and very cu- the same technique was used in a had overlooked earlier. rious when they saw what he was different place, it was seen from a After discussions with chair- doing. He shares, “I have never completely new dimension. person of the VDC, teachers of been asked questions about what During the residency, similar schools and the local inhabitants, I do, however during Dolakha Al- kind of unique forms of art were the artists started research on bum when I was asked to weave explored and local art forms the village to create art works bamboo in the same technique were brought into mainstream. based on it. As the art-making used to make doko and fungloon Children created beautiful songs process started, artists were in- an electric pole, people from and even wrote lyrics themselves. volved in the community as the Gairimudi started getting curi- These songs are in the course of community. Even art materials ous. I was asked questions like, being developed into an album. were carried in doko! “Kam- why are you making doko on Short films based on local issues ero” used in construction, was an electric pole? Are you mad like Jhankriand earthquake or- used to paint bamboo sticks. Kanchha? How would you get deals were filmed. All artworks “Baanskopatyaang” was used as the doko out of the electric pole? created during the residency were exhibited in the community space in Gairimudi. Dolakha Album successfully established art as a foundation for raising questions, creating awareness and initiating interactions and debates. For a year, the Dolakha program was singularly funded by Artudio but now, Siddharth Art Foundation Education Initiative and Buddhakumari Foundation are also providing some financial support. Currently, the Artu- dio team is also researching in Manang for a similar initiative. And hence, they will be enriching another community, helping another village and telling new stories of simple people and objects. (Photo courtesy: Artudio)

34 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 his ever broadening style, too hard to be defined, and make it his own. Did you know that he was a major rock and roll The journey fan too? (Oh, really? That’s sur- prising, I thought he was an all classical type) Nope, not at all. A Homage to the Maestro He even listened to some forms of electronic music; that’s what Ambar Gurung, the late Nepali musical icon, was a personality as myriad as made him such a rare occurrence instead of some one hit wonder, the musical notes he struck. His friends share their fondest memories of this you know? He could take ele- musician par excellence with ECS Nepal. ments from a Narayan Gopal song, some from modern era Satyam Shrestha contemporary music, and com- bine it into a new song with his own personal touch, and just like that, create a completely unique musical gem. Besides, like I mentioned before, being an all- rounder like him is no easy feat, either. Nowadays, one person writes the song and another pro- talked about as hit movies. Even was his kind and benevolent duces the track, and yet another fewer are aware of the fact that nature. In terms of his profes- is coached into singing the song, our national anthem is ranked sion, his ability to put his mind but not him. Ambar Gurung was among the top ten national an- to something was quite extraor- the textbook definition of a self- thems around the world. What dinary as well. Like, when he made man. bigger mark on history can you was in the middle of something, Seeing how he has dabbled make than that? It definitely all he looked at was towards in everything, from serving as comes as no surprise, though. his marked goal. Didn’t matter a music director at the Nepal Anyone with half-a-mind can who released what hit, or what Academy to composing music appreciate the beauty in his the prevalent trend in the music for hit Nepali films like Mero peace-preaching lyrics that unite industry was. Neither did he care Desh and Man Ko Bandh, it’s different flowers in the garden about fame, money, and produc- hard to pinpoint the pinnacle of as one. ing hurriedly to sell more. He his achievements. What do you was simply focused on his own consider his biggest feat to be? What do you consider his stron- work, which I think was a key Now, that’s an easy one. With gest trait to be? point behind his success. zero doubt, it’s the national an- Ambar Gurung was a man of them. Although many do, equally many wonders, something I’m Tell me more about this kind- many don’t know that he was the sure most are in unanimous ness, maybe some memorable genius behind the ingenious gem agreement with. But, if I had memories? of an anthem everybody knows. to single out one specific thing Certainly, there is one in particu- Sadly, directors are seldom as about him, I think, for me, it lar that I hold very dear to this age and day. Before I got settled in life and everything, you know, maestro; a true A musical pioneer, Ambar vides valuable insight into the life the years spent working to get maestro in every single Gurung stands on the same ped- of the dearly missed icon. where I am, there was this one sense of the word, estal as immortals like Narayan time I was in a dire situation. Athat’s what he was. Gopal, Gopal Yonzon, Aruna What would you say was his most Without going into specifics, A maestro of what exactly, you Lama, and others, with songs admirable trait? let’s just say I was in desperate ask? Well, in its simplest form, like “Naulakha Tara Udaaye” Well, that has to be his persever- need of money, and getting it was music. Now, don’t get me wrong, and “Rato Ra Chandra Surya”, ance and level of commitment proving to be a very challenging I could go on forever with giving still sung with as much vigor and innovation he brought into task. Then one day, Ambar, I, him honorary labels—singer, even decades after their release. the game. He wasn’t just your and a few others happened to composer, songwriter—but, that’s He breathed his last at 2:37 on everyday musician who came meet. It was just everyday routine exactly it. It just isn’t possible for Tuesday morning in Grande In- and went with the times as stuff, nothing out of the ordinary. me to define all that he was in a ternational Hospital at the age of tastes and audience perception Then, next thing, right before my single word, nor is it plausible to seventy-nine. Pratik Karthak , a changed. He could infuse, he eyes, it ceased to be so. Ambar babble on and on about his many well-known figure in journalism could adapt, learn, and most began talking to a friend about musical feats and prowess. who was very close to him, pro- importantly, incorporate it into the hard financial time he was go-

36 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 August 2016 | ECS NEPAL 37 The journey

ing through, and asked him if he could help. Although I was a bit perplexed, I didn’t think much of it. Later on, pulling me aside, he pulled out a wad of cash and said it was for me. Obviously, I was confused, as I remembered him asking for help for himself moments earlier, and then it hit me. He’d taken the help from the other guy, not for himself, but for me. My appreciation and gratitude knew no bounds at that moment, and remains so till this day.

What about some funny moments/adventures? Oh, this one memory does come lucky to be part of his legacy; a songs accredited to him; be it to mind. Ambar, I, and a group legacy that shall live on in the composition, song writing, pro- of friends, I think around four- hearts of music lovers forever. ducing, singing, or every other five people, were headed for Now, it isn’t just close friends ‘-ing’, as Peter said it best. A man Dakshinkali Temple. We traveled and family who have so much of his caliber wouldn’t stop only by car, and we took along a live respect for the man. Fans all at the studio, though, as he’s even chicken for sacrifice. On the way, over have paid their dues and overseen the musical production the chicken somehow managed tributes to the maestro through for the epic Nepali opera, Muna to escape! What followed next various social media like Twitter, Madan. And, even if each one was absolute madness and chaos Facebook, and covers, reworks, of his songs has a unique charm as all of us started running after and remixes of his biggest hits and universal appeal, some have the chicken. We were like little on YouTube. particularly stood out for music village boys running after tire Born in Darjeeling on Feb 26, enthusiasts. Songs like Naulakha wheels. Then, after a lengthy 1937, Ambar Gurung came to Tara Udaaye, Raato Ra Chandra chase, came the most memorable Nepal in 1969, at the invitation Surya, and Eh Kanchha have part of it all. Ambar actually did of King Mahendra, who wanted delighted listeners since time im- an aerial dive for the chicken, him to head the music depart- memorial. which was nothing short of pure ment of the Nepal Academy of “Ambar dai, your music awesomeness. So, yeah, there Arts and Literature. With a career helped me and shaped me into are definitely millions of little spanning more than six decades, the man I am today, you will memories like these that I cher- a quick glance at his portfolio always be dearly missed,” blogs ish. I just consider myself super shows an impressive 1000 plus karthik36900. “Everybody tells me I have my own unique sound and style now. But what they don’t know is, if it weren’t for my maestro Ambar dai, there wouldn’t be any sound at all, much less one as refined,” tweets an old student and friend from long ago. It’s clear that what he brought to the table as a musician impacted and influenced, and even gave birth, to a whole lot of aspiring musicians. Close friend Anuradha Koirala, CNN Hero of the Year 2010, and founder of Maiti Nepal, was deeply moved and distraught at the passing away of the legend. She states that he fulfilled his potential to the maximum. His creations are immortalized in hearts, minds, souls, and of course, records.

38 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 Feature QC manages the US Embassy Book Bus, Innovation in a mobile library that travels mostly to government and community schools inside Education Fair and outside Kathmandu Valley.

In the first week of August, local organizations active in Nepal are coming spaces like Cafe Cheeno and Ramalaya. tions, Srijanalaya and Karkhana, who Srijanalaya through ArtWorks together to transform educational practices and learning through the After 2013, the owners, who are also life have also been working with school program funded Innovation in Education Fair. Here is an account of participating groups and partners, focused even more on creative children in various capacities. He sug- by Shikshya programs and projects. For example, gested that they pool their resources Foundation why this initiative needs to be heeded to and celebrated. Nepal , travels to QC manages the US Embassy Book and conduct an educational fair in the remote school Bus, a mobile library that travels mostly summer. They would invite teachers communities to niranjan kunwar to government and community schools and administrators in order to share work with local students and inside and outside Kathmandu Valley. their work with the wider educational teachers. To make this program effective, the QC community. They would instigate dis- team spends a lot of time coordinating cussions and push thinking. The focus with school leaders because the Book would be on innovative ideas. Bus program involves more than just Srijanalaya taking books to students and teachers. Sharareh Bajracharya, founder of Sri- Artists, educators and folks from differ- janalaya, agreed to curate the fair and ent disciplines travel on the Bus and lead coordinate with other participating or- co-curricular lessons and workshops at ganizations. She had returned to Kath- school sites. mandu a few years ago after studying Earlier this year, Pranab Man educational anthropology in the US and Singh approached two other organiza- explored several professional options Srijanalaya

Quixote’s Cove creative writing groups. They organized Kathmandu’s first In early 2009, a small bookshop also organized performances international literature festival, opened inside an old build- related to arts and literature. the Lit Jatra. ing in Jhamsikhel. Unlike most Gradually, the bookshop gained However, due to soaring rent, bookshops in Kathmandu, the a unique reputation in the city, the Jhamsikhel shop had to be founders of this new venture, as unique as its name - Quixote’s closed in 2013 and shifted to Suvani Singh and Pranab Man Cove (QC). The owners were an office space in Ekanta Kuna.

Singh, focused on events along- asked to manage similar events QC’s strategies and core mission Srijanalaya side sales. For example, they for other interested folks. Two also changed a bit - instead of hosted discussion sessions with years after establishing QC, running its own physical space, it published writers and facilitated Singh and Singh successfully opened outlets in pre-established

40 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 Feature

Educators should strive to develop the minds and characters of students. The Innovation in Education Fair promises to inspire leaders inclined to make teaching and learning fun and engaging.

Outside the Classroom The Karkhana booklet states plans and activities, Karkhana’s Nepal’s traditional education that knowledge is power only dynamic approach supplements system has focused on theories, when you know how to use it. school curricula. formulas, inane rules and rou- To that end, the focus is on the In today’s high-paced global- Robic Upadhyaya tines that are disconnected from process of learning, on collabo- ized world, it is imperative to students’ immediate lives. With rating and exchanging ideas with think of education in a different a high emphasis on end-of-year each other. By working with and way. Srijanalaya’s focus on arts exams, students are expected manipulating objects, learning education, a discipline generally Apart from QC and Srijanalaya, Karkhana to rote learn text-heavy lessons becomes “visible” and concrete ignored and misunderstood, is and regurgitate them on answer for young students who often rich with possibilities. New bod- is the third organizer of the Innovation in sheets. Education, conducted struggle to understand obscure ies of research have revealed Education Fair that is going to take place on in this manner, becomes im- concepts. Karkhana believes that the arts can provide multiple personal and unstimulating to that the world is malleable. In pathways to understand the August 5, 6 and 7 in Tangalhood. students. Furthermore, since other words, the human mind world better and interact with most teachers do not facilitate has the capacity to create things it in an active way. A consider- critical thinking and problem and adapt them to make our lives able number of children cannot related to arts and education. running the ArtWorks program, activities and lessons. Currently, solving, even the students who more efficient, which is a basic, access text-heavy lessons, many She even joined an arts program funded by Shikshya Foundation Karkhana runs two different end up memorizing facts may foundational premise of science studies have demonstrated. Since at Kathmandu University Center Nepal, which involves travelling programs - Karkhana Innovators not know how to apply them in and technology. By directly ap- human beings are diverse, we for Arts and Design, and in to remote school communities Club, which is an after-school real-life settings. plying this premise to their lesson also have diverse ways of learn- 2012, was a coordinator of the and working with local students program that engages children Kathmandu International Arts and teachers. Eventually, the in project based learning, and Festival. But her goals eventually Srijanalaya team intends to BeeCreative, a co-curricular pro- led her to establish Srijanalaya develop art materials that align gram that supports teachers who in 2013. Deeply concerned with with government curricula and are interested in aligning lesson social justice, Bajracharya and support teachers who want to plans with Karkhana’s pedagogy. her team have since worked with run effective art programs. Karkhana is currently working young children - especially those with 18 private schools and five that come from underprivileged Karkhana government/community schools backgrounds - and engaged Apart from QC and Srijanalaya, and has already developed over them in art activities. The team Karkhana is the third organizer 150 lesson plans. believes that art activities provide of the Innovation in Education Aside from directly working healthy outlets for children to Fair that is going to take place with schools, Karkhana also express their thoughts and emo- on August 5, 6 and 7 in Tangal- co-organizes the annual Yantra, tions. It is also a way to engage hood. Similar to the other two an Art/Science/Tech festival, disinterested students in learning organizations, Karkhana’s core that brings artists, engineers, new things. ideas, as well as its mission, architects and social scientists With arts education as its have evolved since its inception. together in interdisciplinary proj- core mission, Srijanalaya has Over the years, founders Sakar ects. Karkhana also instigated also managed artist residencies Pudasaini and Pavitra Gautam MakerKT, a workshop module and guided tour programs at have assembled a solid team targeted at teaching technologi- Nepal Arts Council and the In- and introduced them to cutting- cal skills to women. Karkhana ternational Mountain Museum edge educational ideas and members have participated in in Pokhara. After the April, practices. Grounded in design various international fairs, fo- 2015 earthquake, the team vis- and technology, the Karkhana rums and festivals. During the ited government schools and team believes that hands-on three-day August fair, Karkhana conducted art workshops with work with objects fosters creativ- will host workshops with middle

children in order to provide ity and deeper understanding. school students and coordinate a Srijanalaya socio-emotional support in times They take this belief to middle conference with major stakehold- of distress. They have also been school classrooms in the form of ers in the field of education.

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ing. Incorporating arts activities in the general school curricula is an effective way of targeting multiple intelligences and supporting those with different learning styles towards a path of growth and success. On the other hand, QC ex- tends the basic idea of education and takes it outside the classroom. During its initial phase, QC set up school libraries and trained teachers. It is extremely important to introduce good reading habits to students at an early age so that a love for reading can be fostered. To disseminate these ideas, QC example, Albertina Barcelo of members of Srijanalaya, will organizes literacy and pedagogy Kathmandu Jazz Conservatory run visual arts and movement courses. Aside from the Book will talk about the importance workshops and put up dance Bus, QC manages the Danish of music education in children’s and theater performances. The Embassy sponsored “Write to development. The Kathmandu Book Bus will introduce vari- Speak” project that introduces University Center for Arts and ous strands of their English slam poetry to students all over Design will put up a collabora- and Science programs - racial Nepal. Since the project enables tive mural and speak about their discrimination, Newton’s third expressions of thoughts and process with interested visitors. law and literacy strategies in feelings, it has become widely There will be a presentation by primary school classrooms. popular and effective. Nepal Picture Library on their The Word Warriors will lead ongoing Retelling Histories a session titled “Spoken Word The Fair educational program which was Poetry: Teacher’s Edition” and The Innovation in Education Fair piloted at several schools last Karkhana will talk about “Run- will be a source of new ideas and year. Open Learning Exchange ning the Design Challenge in energy. Several other organiza- Nepal (OLE) and Nepal Prakriti Schools”. tions have partnered with the Pathsala are also on board and The organizers intend to core team. Representatives will will interact with visitors. sensitize school leaders and lead workshops and perform Additionally, Sunita Maha- policymakers to these crucial during the three-day fair. For rjan and Subima Shrestha, board ideas. They are hoping that those working in Nepal’s education sector will enthusiastically participate and engage with them during the fair. There will be opportunities to learn new techniques and plan strategies to incorporate them in schools, an ideal platform for principals and directors looking for ways to implement change in school programs. Educators should strive to develop the minds and characters of students. The Innovation in Education Fair promises to inspire leaders inclined to make teaching and learning fun and engaging, personal and mean- ingful, rigorous and challenging. Here is hoping that by coming together and participating, everyone’s capacity to imagine a productive and harmonious future for Nepal will be expanded.

44 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 Feature Khokhana’s Famed Tori-ko-tel One can pick up the aroma of mustard oil cooking hundreds of feet away in Khokhana. It’s evident that at first, you will find yourself following the strong scent to gradually transcend to your own memories of tori-ko-tel.

srizu bajracharya Sajana shrestha

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In Khokana, producing mustard oil was based on a community system, as the community owned the oil mill. But many people have started family units.

Traditionally, producing, drying and threshing mustard is manual work. The pressing work is done using wooden instruments, while the machine is used only on the later part, to produce oil from the used mustard dreg.

As we would drive into Khokhana, the strong scent of tori would whiff through the mud houses. And I would feel more home-sick already, because I would be lingering over the taste of hakku-chhoela and kachhila as tori-ko-tel was used for making these non-veg newari delicacies during Nakhatyas at home. My father enjoyed the smell of tori, and often while cooking, he would tell me with pride (as though he had made the tori-ko- tel himself), “Tori-ko-tel is our Nepali oil, and it’s very healthy; you are thinking it smells, but this is not an odor, it’s an aroma. Wrap yourself into it, and you will understand why I am saying he scent of a place at the tender age of twelve. Hate, what I am saying.” is often warped in because I would have to return to On winter holidays, when memories. Here, in my hostel, and love, because the I would come back home to TKhokhana, the scent local people were friendly and enjoy the sun on the terrace, my of tori has again taken me back the sweet aroma of tori always hajurma would massage me and to my childhood memories. I can made me feel closer to home. my cousins’ hair with tori-ko-tel. actually still hear myself silently sulking inside the blue van, wishing for the road to never end, because I would be returned to my hostel after my holidays, and my hostel was perched at the end of this road. But, often on these trips, I would gaze out of the van’s small window to the green fields and the tori-ko- bari, and sometimes during the monsoon, I would find men and women busy in ropai. This was Khokhana, a place I had a love- and-hate relationship with even

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She would also give my little baby brother a body massage, explaining to me how tori-ko-tel taken this place on lease for 10 is even good for the bones. How- years; this is my third year, but ever, those idle afternoons have I don’t know what will happen long been left behind. after seven more years, because This time here in Khohana, I have realized that this business I and my friend entered this an- is very difficult. It’s not easy to cient town searching for its tori run a tori-mill. The cost is rather mills to write a story on them. It too expensive, but it certainly wasn’t really that hard, but we gives me a sense of satisfaction both found ourselves adrift with for now.” our sun-dried memories. And it’s true; in recent years, Kanchha Maharjan seemed bazaars offer a larger variety to understand our nostalgia at- of oils: sunflower, olive, and tached with the scent of tori that mustard. Even Khokhana’s tori- wafted strongly from his tori mill: ko-tel is more accessible, as Gaabu Jyaasha Tel Mill. He let us more and more private tori mills be for a while, and then gradually open within houses. Khokhana’s started telling his story. tori-ko-tel today has a depleting “I reopened this factory after number of customers. There was almost 30 years,” he says. As a time when tori-ko-tel used to be a boy, he enjoyed the smell of exchanged for tori itself. Local tori, he tells me the scent is his sellers would balance jerry cans childhood. Originally, Gaabu filled with Khokhana’s tori-ko-tel Jyaasha Tel Mill had 144 stake- and carry them to houses, where holders from his community, and they would be exchanged for tori. one of the stakeholders was his “When you have a big market, we father. But, later, it closed down, don’t realize which oil is the best; as the stakeholders went their everyone is promoting their oils different ways. For almost 30 as the best. But, the way I see it, years, the mill was abandoned, there is a lot of grey in this busi- but Kanchha Maharjan wanted ness. Most people mix oils and to continue what his family had been doing years ago; he believes his work is an inheritance that he should continue, a culture that needs longevity. “I have

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sell them in the market,” says seed on to a metal bag with Maharjan. pores, which resembles a doko. Tori mills are dependent on Once the metal bag is filled, tori from Nepal, India, China, Anil Maharjan, another worker and Bangladesh. “The mills in the Gaabu Jyasa Mill, steps don’t just depend on the Nepali on to the huge steering and tori, if such was the case, tori unscrews the traditional oil would be more expensive. We press for Ale to slowly slip in use imported toris to make the the metal bag in between the oil. Tori-ko-bari has seemingly large wooden planks. When he disappeared, as you can see for is done, Anil tightens the steer- yourself,” says Maharjan. ing, as I watch the oil oozing out As I sit there in his factory, I from a small tap below the kol. am overwhelmed by the strong “Before the 1934 earthquake, we scent of tori, and the tori-ko- had four of these kols (traditional mill becomes a muse for me. wooden oil presses); the one you Leaving my memories to play are seeing here is one of the old- at the back of my mind, I start est wooden presses. The locals observing the process of tori- worship this oil press as Bhairav, ko-tel making. Shumsher Ale while the hadi is worshipped Magar, one of Kanchha Maha- as Agni devata, and the kol is rjan’s workers, is busy burning worshipped as Mahankal. Every the tori in the bhatti (burner, year in the month of Baisakh, previously called hadi). He is the locals worships the Bhairav at ease, as he shovels and stirs that resides in this factory, and the grinded mustard seed on partake of a heavy Newari feast,“ the hot pan. says Kanchha Maharjan His next step involves pour- Khokhana’s tori-ko-tel is ing the hot grinded mustard famous all around Kathmandu.

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The Newars still go hunting blessings. Pleased, Ganesh had people like my father, who Mustard oil dregs for pure tori-ko-tel in bazaars blessed him, saying, “Khokha- enjoys the scent of tori with a (Pina) are used by people for to make delicacies like saag, na’s tori-ko-tel will always sense of pride. washing their wah, baara, choela, kachhila, flourish,” and so it does even As Kanchha Maharjan puts heads and bodies, and more. It is said that a today. Although the number of it, “This strong scent of Kho- in order to purify them. tori-ko-tel merchant once went customers is decreasing, those kana’s tori is the smell of my to Chobar Ganesthan, where who know the taste of tori have childhood.” This holds true for he had rubbed the oil on the always returned to the flavor. many Nepalis, Khokhana’s tori body of Ganesh, asking for his Perhaps this number includes is indeed filled with memories.

54 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 August 2016 | ECS NEPAL 55 The Forgotten idols Feature Remembering the historical icons that contributed in making the Modern State of Nepal.

satyam shrestha Across the journey, many monarchs, queens, ministers, wrong doers, freedom fighters, dictators have left marks on Nepali history for better or worse.

epal has come a long policy, which provided land to of the most intriguing historical way from being an many landless people in dire anecdotes of all time. Although assemblage of city- need of it. Likewise, the Mahen- many variations of the story ex- Nstates and individually dra Highway (also called East- ist, it tells the same tale. A godly ruled provinces to the beautifully West Highway) that runs along being personified as a woman unified Mechi-Mahakali it is the entire Terai belt in southern once came to visit a young King today. Across the journey, many Nepal can also be credited to his Prithvi. She beckoned him to monarchs, queens, ministers, highness as an effort to alleviate put forward his hands and pro- wrong doers, freedom fighters, travel difficulties. King Mahen- ceeded to put some curd on it, dictators have left marks on dra’s biggest move was probably then had him eat it up. Next, she Nepali history for better or launching the Back to the Village asked for his hand again. But this worse. However, certain iconic National Campaign in 1967, time she spat on it instead. The personalities and sites have one of the nation’s largest rural startled king dropped it on his managed to transcend the development efforts. Finally, if it feet. The woman announced to confines of memory and have were not for him, Nepal would the taken aback king, that if he been forever immortalized for all not be a member of the United had eaten the regurgitated mess, Suresh Paudel to see, remember, acknowledge Nations in 1955. he would have conquered any and appreciate. and everywhere he set his sight. King Prithvi Narayan shah But as he dropped it on his feet, King Mahendra Prithvi Narayan Shah, King he would be able to conquer King Mahendra has been herald- of Nepal (1723–1775) is most all the places he set his foot on. ed by various different historians arguably the one prominent Whether this story has any bear- as a true patriot to his nation historical figure that every Ne- ing of truth to it or not is of little through and out. Most famously pali identifies with. He was the consequence, it is what he was associated with the classical ninth generation descendant able to accomplish that deserves “Ma mare pani mero desh bachi of Dravya Shah (1559–1570), attention. rahos” quote, King Mahendra the founder of the ruling house touched many hearts. Although of Gorkha. Prithvi Narayan Shah Shahid Gate there is major controversy sur- succeeded his father, King Nara Sahid Gate or Shahid Gate (Mar- rounding the Panchayat system, Bhupal Shah, to the throne of tyr’s Gate) is a monument with some praising its revolution- the Gorkha Kingdom in 1743, in Kathmandu, Nepal. It is a ary stance of abolishing political at the small age of 20. famous memorial and sight- party system altogether and The first King of a unified Nepal seeing hot spot where notable handing over more power to the would not have it any other way. patriots and martyrs have been people and others severely criti- Before him, Nepal as we know it immortalized. As of 2016, four cizing its very premise itself, his was divided and weakened under statues lie inside the gates. The lesser known acts of benevolence the Malla confederacy and re- statue of king Tribhuvan used to are ones that shine out the most. gime which had reigned for cen- lie on top of the four, but a 2012 He implemented a land reform turies. He lies at the center of one cabinet meeting decided to move

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the statue into the Narayanhiti a writer spreading pamphlets in prison. Despite being continu- museum where it lies to date. against the regime alongside the ously demanded to beg pardon These four brave souls, Dharma support of the other three. Their and have their lives spared, the Bhatka Mathema, Ganga Lal party revolted for 4 months and martyrs refused to bow in the Shrestha, Dashrath Chand, and it was starting to gain major face of oppression and were Shukraraj Shastri are consid- momentum with more and more tragically murdered in the subse- ered crucial historical figures, as supporters too. But sadly, Ramji quent year through shots to the they once stood against the 104 Joshi, another prominent mem- head and nooses around necks. year old Rana regime. Around ber of the same party, decided to Amidst the tragedy at the end of the 1940’s, fate brought these give in to the temptation of the their rebellion, Ganga Lal was brave individuals together into 5000 rupee reward for informa- allowed one last meeting with one political party, the Nepal tion and sold out his brothers. his family before his execution Praja Parishad headed by Tanka As such, all the leaders were in shackles. This emotional after- Prasad Acharya. Dasharath rounded up and these freedom math would inspire his youngest Chand actively participated as fighters were tortured to no end brother Pushpa Lal Shrestha to take up arms later on too. Needless to say, these selfless patriots have deserved a spot at the Shahid Gate and the hearts of Nepalis forever.

King Birendra Birendra Bir Bikram Shah (29 December 1945 – 1 June 2001) was the 11th King of Nepal and is unanimously credited by many as the greatest monarch in Ne- pali history, who lived to serve the people and not the other way around. The eldest son of King Mahendra, whom he succeeded in 1972, he reigned till 2001 after which he was succeeded by king Dipendra Bir Bikram Shah. He is described as one of the royal ones who wanted the Nepalese people to experience actual democracy instead of a thickly veiled façade. This was seen in 1980 when we gave the people the freedom to choose between multiparty democracy and a reformed panchayat system. Then in People’s Movement 1, he decided to establish the constitu- tional monarchy in Nepal instead of fighting for dictatorship which he easily could have. However, not many know that he probably stands the most educated king in all of Nepal’s royal bloodlines. He studied at Eton College in United Kingdom for his graduate studies, the University of Tokyo for another and even Harvard University in pursuit of a political theory degree. Despite his many acts of kindness for the people and nation as a whole, he is most closely associated with the Nepalese royal massacre which

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occurred on June 1, 2001, at the grounds of Narayanhiti Royal Palace. Although concrete evidence lies in no land in sight, the generally accepted consen- sus is that a heavily intoxicated Prince Dipendra attempted to massacre everyone in sight after a slight altercation with his father then shot himself in a fatal murder suicide scenario. On the other side of the spectrum, some conspiracy theorists even believe that Prince Dipendra did not even bloody his hands once and it was all some big cover up. No matter how the events may have transpired, the fact remains that such a blow was a highly unbecoming end unfit for a king of such kindness.

Jung Bahadur Rana Of all the many different Rana rulers who have graced the seats of royalty, Jung bahadur Rana most likely stands the most remembered and known. Maharaja Jung Bahadur (June 18, 1817, Kathmandu, Nepal – February 25, 1877, Borlang, Gorkha) was a ruler of Nepal and founder of the Rana Dynas- ty of Nepal. His real name was Bir Narsingh Kunwar but he became famous by the name of Jung Bahadur, given to him by his maternal uncle, Mathabars- ingh Thapa in recognizance of his ferocious nature and cour- age. A man who wore his heart on his sleeve, he was able to successfully overthrow his rivals, and subsequently reinforce his command in the administrative, judicial and civil affairs of the demeaning nature of “wifing” cre. He even took in a spy who country. During his reign as every girl he liked. And if she provided priceless information prime minister, he strived to was already married like Sid- as a wife. And it did not stop maintain cordial relations with dhi Gajendra Laxmi, he would within the border lines either foreign nations in Europe and simply have his soldiers abduct as demonstrated when he mar- was known to have made trips the girl and bring her over to his ried a Coorg (royal Indian state to Britain and France with mod- place to serve as a mistress. Mat- before British takeover) Indian erate frequency. He also strived ter of fact, he is credited with princess in Varanasi on his re- to bring reforms by promoting over 13 wives and more than 2 turn home from England. Nev- modernization, revising judicial dozens of sons and daughters. ertheless, taking well informed customs and working towards He married some for love, oth- and active steps to abolish the the abolishment of various ers for political alliances with Kamalari and the horrible sati social evils like ‘Sati’. Regard- various noble houses, including system will always be a move to less of his good deeds, it was a sister of Fateh Jung Shah, one forever remember and appreci- frequently overshadowed by his of the victims of the Kot Massa- ate equally.

62 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 August 2016 | ECS NEPAL 63 from India and Bhutan have been engaged in their education. A Monastery But, running the monastery has been an even bigger challenge than constructing it. “The on a Hill Feature past decade has been the busiest of my life. I am busy looking for Ngima Dorje Sherpa is the one his village puts his hopes on to get things help and innovative ways to keep done. When it came building a monastery in this distant community in the monastery afloat,” he says, adding, “I’m looking forward to Solukhumbu, Ngima Dorje took up a responsibility that changed his outlook a serious and effective long-term on life forever. plan to make sure that it runs for hundreds of years even after we sachi mulmi have gone.” So, the monastery develop- porting them from respective ment committee has been trying areas to his road-deficient village, to engage interested trekkers and building from scratch. Sherpa and people as members to make thought about it, and didn’t dare a foolproof plan for its survival. take on this very ambitious proj- Despite the difficulty, Sherpa is Pema Namding Monastery is an interesting ect until 2005, when he went for proud of what he has achieved. an international tour to reach The villagers have put their trust sight to anyone who has had the opportunity out to his contacts and generous and faith on him, and it has been friends so as to collect sufficient this faith that has driven him to to see it. Sherpa insists that the view from funds. keep working at it. the monastery is even better. After a Dutch organization “My village and the surround- donated 15,000 euros, he felt ing area are remote places where a little relieved, and confident it seems as if everyone who mat- stand it then. He was referring And the number of projects enough to initiate it. After many ters has abandoned them,” he to how I should do something in his list grows. Immediate glitches, it finally took off. The shares. good for the community and for are the long-term development construction started in 2005, In 1995, he met Sir Edmund the welfare of the people, so that plans for the monastery. “If I and in an unintentional but lucky Hillary, who made a deep impact they would remember me,” he could, and if things were in my occurrence, completed the entire on him. “He told me to ‘leave says. He has not looked back favor, I would invest to make project in three years, three my name behind.’ I didn’t under- since then. the monastery area a tourism months, three weeks, and three spot. It has the look and feel of days, a lucky sign according to one,” he says. Mostly inhabited Buddhist beliefs. by people involved in agricul- hen the earth He has been actively involved in Pema Namding Monastery ture and tourism, he hopes shook that many social and community proj- is an interesting sight to anyone that it will help the economy day in April ects over the years, especially for who has had the opportunity to of the village. last year, the development of his village. To see it. Sherpa insists that the view He is also looking for an Ngima Dorje build what is now Pema Namd- from the monastery is even better. opportunity to re-introduce Sherpa’sW immediate thought ing Monastery, however, took a The monastery operated with free health camps to the locals went to a monastery perched completely new level of dedica- 17 monks from poverty-stricken there, like he did back in 2008. on a hill at a village called tion. It was a different story. households, offering them neces- “But resources are tight,” he Kharikhola of Juving VDC in The thought of building a sities and education up to 5th laments. “After all, what is the Solukhumbu district. He was monastery in Himalayan terrain grade. For Sherpa, however, it use of initiating things if you worried lest it had succumbed to in the middle of nowhere was was the kind of education the can’t end it properly?” the violent shakes of nature, or very intimidating at first. “My monastery was going to introduce The partial damage brought even worse, had put the monks in community people were eager to that mattered the most. forth by the second quake in harm’s way. However, when he have a monastery built in Kharik- “The kind of rituals that lamas May 2015 was an added blow got there two days later by flight, hola, as I’d earned a certain of the village fulfill isn’t enough to them. “However, it could he was relieved to find that it had reputation for running around in today’s time. Young monks have been worse,” he smiles, resisted. All was well, for now. involving myself in different should be educated, so that they adding that the renovation Ngima Dorje Sherpa is a projects. But, this was something can later be people of influence would probably be finished trekking guide and a travel agent else, compared to launching safe and bring change to this village. in a couple of months. With who has been running his trek- drinking water or regulating This is my long term plan,” he a little help from the Nepal king company since 1997. Born mother groups,” he says. says. He sees danger in leaving Tourism Board, he hopes the on March 1, 1972, he grew up It meant mustering every the kids without education. “This monastery will meet all ex- familiar with the tricky trails and stone and cement and hundreds is our effort to change things,” pectations. He’s optimistic it beautiful scenery of his village. of construction material, trans- he adds. Therefore, two teachers will, eventually.

64 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 August 2016 | ECS NEPAL 65 Rain Mist and Ropai The misty season of rain and rice is actually just a layering on top, if you cut deep, you will realize that it is the essence of hard work that ropai is celebrating.

Amar DANUWAR RAI

The fields are ploughed into smooth mud pools with perfect consistency for planting rice seedlings.

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group of men and entering the fields with a ther- laughter, we forget that the true women, before mos: to maybe enjoy a hot cup of celebration of the season is not leaving to sow their tea after a tiring day of planting. just for ropai but the hard work it A rice seedlings in their The bulls too don’t seem involves; the efforts to plant rice field, celebrate the season of to mind the cold mud slushing seedlings to later harvest the gift planting. They drink kar-thow through their legs. It is as if they of the blessed season. (a strong changg) and feast on understand the importance of Hard-work is a part of our dahi chuira preparing with great the ropai season. Young girls lives; and even the basics to zeal to finally get dirty in the and boys, are here on the field farming is about learning to mud; to sow the seeds that will of Khokhana, relishing the asaar work hard; to enjoy and relish eventually make their harvest. season in this muddy field. Their the sowed seeds later as the I on the other hand, am afraid faces covered with mud, laughing fruits of labor. that the soft drizzle might spoil and screaming splashing mud It is the same with life, you my camera. and celebration around them. endeavor now, to make your life It is a lovely season, to be In my head, I am thinking, easier for tomorrow. And that is back in the fields again. I can “do these kids understand the ropai. The misty season of rain see the men and women enjoy- meaning of ropai? Do they know and rice is actually just a layering asaar, they are dexterously why they are celebrating the sea- ing, if you cut deep, you will real- ploughing the fields and planting son of rain and rice?” ize that it’s the essence of hard seedlings, some are tending to In recent years, the festival of work that ropai is celebrating. their ropai, done the other day, ropai has become quite famous. So, have you been planting while some men are But amidst the songs of ropai and your rice seedlings well?

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Young girls enjoy splashing themselves in the mud pool awaiting for ropai while a young boy helps his mother out in the field. He looks up at me as he acknowledges my presence in the field with my camera.

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Festivals such as these celebrates the sense of togetherness.

72 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 August 2016 | ECS NEPAL 73 LOCAL STORY

Aeyy MachhO aayo MachhO! Aeyy MachhO aayo Machho! (Fish is here, come on down, fish is here)

I hear him shouting outside, the machha (fish) wala is happy to see me, as he expects me to be one of his customers. But instead I interrogate him and he looks confused. Naresh Sahani Majhi is from Rauthahat. And he has shining teeth like those in the ads of happydent. He smiles joyfully at Kanchha Maharjan who is his regular customer. I ask him, “Why Machha, why not something else for business?” “I went to Malaysia recently through manpower. But the job was not that good. I had sold my land to get an oversea ticket and to bear my cost of living in Malaysia. I earned nothing, instead ended up spending 3 lakhs. So, I returned home thinking, home is where I should be and my machhi business is perfect. I come around Khokhana every now and then and by the end of the day, I am almost successful at selling all these machhas. I could sell fruits but we do not earn much profit from it. That is why machhi is the best” says Majhi. While I am still analysing his answer, he surprises me by asking, “so are you married?” And I shake my head saying no. “Well that’s good. Because now you earn for yourself, it’s difficult for me, I have my wife and my kids, if I don’t make a living, life will rain down on me” says Majhi wearing that happydent smile again. Lunibha Shakya REVIEW l CRAFTCraftED TALE l pLACE OF CRAFT l CRAFT MAKER l Craft shop

A hand prayer wheel could be one of the perfect souvenirs to take back home from Nepal.

August 2016 | ECS NEPAL 77 Palpali KaruwaCrafted tale From a household kitchen utensil, the Palpali Karuwa evolves into a luxurious art object. At the same time, ironically, the craftsmanship faces a threat of extinction.

Nirmal Shrestha

alpa, a scenic district Traditional vocations and in the Lumbini zone of skills began to fade away along Nepal, is well-known, with the development of modern Pamongst other things, technology and changes in social for its traditionally designed ‘Pal- values. Artisans began to leave pali karuwa’. A karuwa is a ves- their professions as craftsmen, sel used for serving alcohol and and were drawn towards salaried the palpali karuwa, as the name jobs. Till 1959, there were 16/17 suggest, is a special metallic ves- families embracing this vocation, sel made particularly in Palpa. Its and by 1977, it was limited to curious design, interests not only only five families. Currently, just connoisseurs of alcohol but also three families are involved in this those fascinated with handicrafts metal craft industry. and metallurgical arts. The making of the Palpali The design of the karuwa karuwa that is so attractive to reflects the art of primitive eroti- both domestic and international cism in its craftsmanship. Like tourists, as well as to lovers of another mix of red mud and in the fourth-century Peruvian art and craft, has its own story. saw dust (‘chyakmo’ in Newari). water vessels with their snouts Reaching the customer only First, one side is plastered care- depicting the male genital organ, after its passage through differ- fully, and only after it has dried The making of the Palpali karuwa a similar depiction of primitive ent stages, the first step in the is the other part also as carefully that is so attractive to both domestic erotic art can be observed in production of the Palpali karuwa plastered and dried. In this way, the craftsmanship of the Palpali is the making of the wax mold. after plastering with the mix, and and international tourists, as well karuwa. In Newari, this is called making drying both inside and outside, The practice of metal craft de- the ‘thasa’, and this is done with the clay mold begins to be ready. as to lovers of art and craft, has its veloped in Palpa, centuries ago in much effort by very experienced The sixth stage consists of getting own story. the Sen Period. An inscription on hands. At first glance, it looks the final mold ready by melting the bell of the Bhimsen Temple at just like a metal karuwa. In the the wax inside the mold. To pour to red heat on the upper shelf. In this way, just like the Phoenix Majhtole Haitya of Bhairavsthan second stage, the mold is cleaned hot molten bronze metal inside Extreme precaution is needed at bird that burns and again rises VDC, Palpa, (which was built and finely polished. After the the clay mold, the top part of this stage. There must be equilib- from its ashes, the Palpali karuwa during the Sen Period) stands mold is ready, three pipe like the pipe like appendage is cut rium between the melting of the also finishes the journey of its mak- witness to the fact. After the appendages made of wax are through to the wax inside. To metal and the mold becoming ing by going through the remaking assimilation of Palpa into the fixed to the upper part of the melt the wax inside, the mold red hot. Traditional skills and of molds again and again. Kingdom of Nepal, the mint was mold, through which, molten is kept on the upper shelf of a experience are required at this Because investment costs have shifted to Tansen’s Taksar Tole metal will be poured inside. This special kind of two shelved oven. time. Bronze (a mixture of 75% increased and production has from Samakot. The minters, who is called ‘nau’ in Newari. After This is called ‘san: bukewu’ copper and 25% tin alloy) is the reduced due to shortages of raw were Shakyas and Bajracharyas, this, in the fourth stage, the mold in Newari. After the mold has fastest of all metals to solidify. A materials and coal (needed for came from the Kathmandu val- is plastered with a paste mixture heated, and the wax pours out, mold that is suitably heated to melting metal), and the need to ley. These artisans were skilled of ‘dewal’ clay (termitarium clay) the inside is emptied and the red heat helps to ensure that the pass through different stages to in making utensils of copper, and cow dung. Able to resist mold is now ready. bronze reaches all parts inside make the molds that cannot be bronze, and dhalaut (a mix of dif- even very high degrees of heat, The most important stage is the mold. In the later stage, the reused and have to be made again ferent metals). When a fire broke this ‘dewal’ clay mixture is used the pouring of the molten metal clay mold is broken to reveal the and again, Palpali karuwa, instead out in Taksar Tole in 1909, mint to plaster the mold two to three into the mold. After the mold is lower part, upper part, spout, ar- of being a daily-use utensil, has production was stopped in 1910. times, and kept to dry. ready, the metal is heated in large tistically carved bird, etc., which become a luxury item for decora- After this, these artisans began In the fifth stage, the dried vessels on the lower shelf of the are then engraved, fixed, embed- tive purpose. And, the perfect making various utensils of metal. mold is further covered with oven while the mold is heated ded, and polished to a fine shine. memento or gift.

78 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 August 2016 | ECS NEPAL 79 TravelEXPERIENCE l MY JOURNEY l TRAVELOGUE l PEOPLE

Upper Mustang is one of the must go treks in Nepal.

August 2016 | ECS NEPAL 81 Destination Why You Need to go to Dolpo Dolpo is an ideal and interesting location to spend the monsoon.

Sasha holmgrens KIM BANNISTER

82 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 August 2016 | ECS NEPAL 83 The recommended months to visit Dolpo would be between June and August; during this time, there are fewer chances of getting altitude sickness, as the temperature is warmer.

Muktinath Temple, which is sacred blue sheep; this herbivorous mammal to both Hindus and Buddhists, and can be seen bouncing off rocks, and is visited by thousands of pilgrims peacefully grazing away at the grass. every year. As very few foreigners and tourists are Upper Dolpo is also recognized as allowed access to Upper Dolpo, the a region where many Tibetans reside. culture has been left untouched by the One of its main attractions is Shey spread of tourism. Twice a year, the Phoksundo Park, where there is a wide Himalayan pilgrimage takes place at array of flora and fauna. Though these the Shey Gompa, where pilgrims make regions are located in Nepal, they a kora of the crystal mountain known are very Tibetan in both their culture as Mt. Kailash. and lifestyle. The remote and isolated The treks in Upper Dolpo are area is a dream for thrill-seekers and particularly challenging. As you trek, adventurers who wish to explore the you will walk between high mountain routes that lead to the mid-western passes surrounded by dry, arid land, parts of Nepal. Its most popular, and and small tufts of vegetation. Ideal most frequently seen, animal is the places to stay during your visit would

The trail ts diverse terrain and rich see, one of the activities being trek- to Shey Phoksundo. culture makes Dolpo an ideal king. It has become an increasingly and interesting location to popular pass-time for those who Ispend the monsoon. Shroud- wish to experience things from a ed in the great Himalayas, it’s wider and different perspective. what we call a ‘rain shadow’ area Some of Dolpo’s population is (where the land experiences little nomadic, so they move from place to no rain). While the rain can be to place depending on where they very beneficial for farmers in the can find new and greener pastures lower regions, bringing a flourish for their livestock to graze on, thus to their agriculture, it is not the creating a very humble way of life. same higher up. If indeed it does Upper Mustang, also known as begin rain, you can look forward ‘fertile land’ in Tibetan, is home to clear blue skies and the smell of to ancient ruins and picturesque the crisp outdoors by the end of mountains towards the south. It it. The recommended months to is one of the most well-conserved visit would be between June and regions in the world. The unique August; during this time, there are culture and historical monuments fewer chances of getting altitude make it seem as though it has come sickness, as the temperature is straight out of a storybook. For warmer. The low accommoda- those looking for a more varied tion rates make it easier to find a route, Jomsom-Muktinath is just place to stay if you are trekking, the right trek. Covering a diverse or simply just relaxing. You might trail, from high altitude arid and ask yourself, ‘why go to a rain dry zones to sub-tropical heat shadowed area?’ Well, the answer and terraced rice paddies, there is simple, to escape being cooped is no doubt that you could never up inside, while the rain falls in tor- be bored. A few places to stop by rents around you. There are loads along the way would have to be the to do in Dolpo, and so much to Tatopani natural hot springs and

84 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 August 2016 | ECS NEPAL 85 be in teahouses, not only does Dolpo, and witness the Himalayan The picturesque this help the local community pilgrimage; Tatopani in Jomsom, Upper Dolpo earn money; it also allows you and the Muktinath Temple; a stroll will keep you to see what life is like for them. through the forests while admir- charmed. For those who don’t wish to stay ing the beautiful mountains in in small teahouses, there are the south of Upper Mustang; and three-star hotels and hostels, too. exploration of ancient kingdoms You’re not limited to only trek- and historical monuments. Dolpo king; for those looking for a less is an adventure everyone should go challenging trip, walks and strolls on. I can assure you that there will in rhododendron forests might be be many unforgettable memories also to your liking. to be made, and you might even Finally, breaking down the top decide to come back again and re- places to visit, you need to defi- discover new things that you didn’t nitely go to Shey Gompa in Upper know existed.

86 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 August 2016 | ECS NEPAL 87 The first thing that travelers notice when they come to Nepal is the infectious friendliness of the people, who laugh easily, smile continuously, and accept differences in culture very easily.

country, is considered Shangri can see, the onion that is Nepal the Tibetan plate, and constant La (not the valleys with springs, can be peeled several layers to rising of the Himalayas, Nepal flowers, animals, and humans go deeper and deeper, making is one of the steepest places on running around surrounded it a land of discovery for the earth, boasting land between 70 by plenty, but valleys where intrepid traveler. m (above sea level) and the top philosophy and the future of the Created by the continuous of the world at 8,848 m within world was preserved). As you grind of the Indian plate into a paltry 250 kilometer breadth, creating climactic and geological zones that can grow anything from pineapple all the way to apple, walnut, and nothing. This steepness leads it to become a paradise for adventure, with Experience hundreds upon hundreds of Nepal for the unexplored mountains, rivers, terrain, valleys, flora, and fauna. Again, another element of the Discerning Traveler onion that travelers love to peel. Today, Nepal is a world Nepal pulls the traveling soul towards itself with a compulsive pull. Not once, but leader in adventure sports that is several times. Some times to stay. This perhaps makes up for the land’s famed slowly allowing more and more mystic quality. An exploration. adventure lovers and enthusiasts

Raj gyawali KIM BANNISTER

here are tourists, and a myriad of cultures: Indian, jungle full of wild animals and then there are trav- Indo-Tibetan, Tibeto-Burman, deadly diseases bordering us in elers, and Nepal is a Indo-Burman, and everything the south. This has led us to be Tparadise for the latter— in between. As Nepalis, we myriad mix of people, from a offering experiences, learning, are constantly surprised by the mysteriously malaria-immune lasting friendships, and tons of traditions and practices of our community of Tharus in the fun—creating memories that last own compatriots, to the extent south (who purportedly are a lifetime. It’s not strange then that we are travelers in our own inhabitants of Rajasthan who that Nepal has one of the highest country. fled the Moghul invasions of the percentages of return travelers This, perhaps, has developed past and settled in a harsh jungle in the world, many of who im- in us a very deep quality of ac- beyond the impassable Ganges), merse and involve themselves ceptance. The friendliness and to the legendary high-mountain deep into the country and its nonchalance comes from the conquering Sherpas (who fled people. fact that we are essentially trad- the repression of Buddhism The first thing that travelers ers, bridging the gap between and settled in impassable val- notice when they come to Nepal the north and the south for leys and protected the sacred is the infectious friendliness of centuries. We are communi- philosophy). the people, who laugh easily, ties etching a living in one of Interesting theory here— smile continuously, and accept the most inaccessible areas in these previously impenetrable differences in culture very eas- the world in the past, the high high valleys, where enlighten- ily. This, perhaps, is our heri- passes and the highest mountain ment was preserved by these tage of centuries of relatively range in the world protecting early Buddhist settlements that peaceful coexistence among us in the north, and a dense dot the northern side of the Experience British University Experience in Kathmandu

The element of discovery is endless for the traveler who is interested in these Enrol now three assets that Nepal has—its people, its environment, and its myriad culture.

to enjoy what the country has to travelers. This country has pastures full of summer flow- offer. Travelers often discover more festivals than the days ers, where communities are that the country allows one to of the year, over 150 different going into the alpine pastures Intake feel audacious and test out their languages and dialects, over 100 right now to collect Cordyceps skills in a safe environment. different ethnicities, all within (yarsagumba), the incredible Aug/Sep 2016 The potential is endless, or so the 27 million odd inhabitants half caterpillar, half mushroom it seems right now, as new op- who live here peacefully. ‘herb’ that fetches thousands of portunities keep opening up. dollars in the international mar- Scholarships Travelers come here to realize What’s coming up? ket for its vigor-giving qualities, they always missed something To bring things to context at the yaks and livestock are in the Available to do that was within reach, this time of the year, it’s mon- meadows in their summer jaunt, and hence have to come back. soon, and life giving rains are and the jungles in the south are No choice. coming down by the bucketful. lush and wild. The shaman full The element of discovery is Discoveries now will include moon festival, the thread chang- endless for the traveler who is the tradition and celebration ing ceremony, the festival of interested in these three assets of rice sowing in the mid-hills the dead, and the sarcasm and that Nepal has—its people, its and the south of the country. laughter festivals are coming up. environment, and its myriad In the high mountains, the culture. This is perhaps what rain shadow areas beyond the The discovery never ends for makes it such a paradise for high mountains will have lush the discerning traveler in Nepal.

BSc (Hons) Computing BBA MIBM EMBA

Degree awarded by : Trade Tower, Thapathali, Kathmandu Britain LEEDS T : +977 1 5111100/1/2 Nepal BECKETT Free call back service : +977 98011 34211 90 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 UNIVERSITY www.thebritishcollege.edu.np People Small Beginnings Greater Ends Two brothers who are running one of the most reliable and successful Mountaineering Expeditions in Nepal talk about their humble backgrounds, drive to climb and a shared vision that keeps them going.

Evangeline Neve

ingma Sherpa climbs, we did it all ourselves, year. And so far, touch wood, not will be the the same way we got started in a single accident. first to tell you the business, working our way When I asked them what “We want to show a lot of young that he comes up, saving, learning, till we got they think has made their com- from humble where we are now.” pany so successful so quickly, Sherpas that they can make their own beginnings.M Born in a yak shed in Where they are now includes Dawa explained that as they Walung village in Makalu district, not only their climbing company, are climbers themselves, they lives like we have, and teach them how he only had the opportunity to but also a clothing business, know the details of what needs to run their own businesses.” study till the 5th grade. “Despite Yak Mountain. In addition, they to be done from their own ex- this, all that my parents taught are agents for Chinese sports perience from the ground level me as a child made me what I brand Kailas, and are planning up, “When people climb with returned and set out to buy his ing, these young people are taineering school for young am today, and this is what I still to launch Heli-Everest helicop- us they don’t have problems mountain gear, relatives asked issued a mountaineering guide people from the Sherpa com- value most, and why I will always ter tours soon. But its Seven with their expeditions. Until why he didn’t just settle down certificate, and in fact, the in- munity, so that the young be thankful to them,” he told me. Summit Treks that is their most now, it has not been necessary with a house and car, rather sistence on being called that— generation can learn the skills The family had eight children, impressive achievement. Estab- to do any marketing. We don’t than spending money on climb- guides and mountaineers, in- professionally, improve their six boys and two girls. Four are lished in 2010, their company have time for it. Maybe in the ing mountains. His reply? “If I stead of porters—is something English, etc. with the goal of now involved in mountaineering. has been number one in volume future, but for now, people buy a house and car, only you that is clearly very important converting these camps into Mingma and his brother Dawa, of mountaineering expeditions find us by word of mouth.” and a few friends will know to Dawa and Mingma. proper degree programs in together, have a mountaineering since 2012. They’ve had the big- In order to get all this off me, but if I spend money on the “Foreigners often refer to mountain climbing. “We want company called Seven Summit gest Everest expeditions from the ground, Mingma worked mountains, the whole world us as porters, instead of climb- to show a lot of young Sher- Treks. We met recently at the the Nepal side annually; with 65 at Toyota in Japan to earn the will know who I am.” ers, but we carry huge loads, pas that they can make their Arniko Room, Annapurna Hotel, members this year, as well as last money to climb, and when he “We had this vision,” ex- make the fixed lines, and we own lives like we have, and to catch up on where they are plain the brothers, “and we have earned the respect to be teach them how to run their heading next. invested in this, because we called climbers. Porters stay own businesses, and so on. Mingma started his career didn’t have much education. below the base camp, climb- We are also planning schools in climbing at the age of fifteen. But this achievement will be ers go higher, wherever they and donations to gompas in He worked his way up from the the certificate that we will car- are from. Fixing lines, making remote areas. Business is one bottom, eventually becoming the ry with us, and pass down from food, setting up camp, all at part, but we want to use what first mountaineer to summit all generation to generation.” high altitude—just calling them we have for social work, too. 14 peaks over 8,000 m on the Their enthusiasm and con- porters is not fair. They are We have many opportunities first attempt. A truly amazing viction is certainly infectious. high altitude climbers,” they to go abroad, people often feat! What I found impressive was explain. invite us, but we want to do Between them, the two broth- how they have not just reached As our interview came to a something for Nepal, and in ers hold numerous other moun- for success themselves, but are close, I had one last question Nepal.” taineering records, too. And, it’s also determined to do all they for these inspirational broth- With such a strong work not just what they’ve achieved, can to bring other along with ers. They have already done ethic, and so many achieve- but how they’ve got about doing them, too. Already, they have so much, what are their plans ments already under their so that makes their tale so fasci- trained 300 climbers, many of for the future? belt, I’m sure this won’t be nating. “We never took a single whom are working for them. Their answers come quick- the last we hear from these penny of sponsorship for our After completing their train- ly. They want to open a moun- two dynamic men.

92 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 August 2016 | ECS NEPAL 93 Promotion At Nepali Chulo Nepali Food is a Celebration of Appetite If you are looking to dine the Nepali way then you should definitely try the food at Nepali Chulo.

NUMA SHAKYA

ne of the worry- At Nepali Chulo, when I and Samay Baji Set although resem- ing consequenc- my foodie friend ordered for a bling the veritable samay baji es of rampant Newari and Thakali dinner set, set, was much subtler in taste. It modernization, we were surprised as to how celebrated the Newari food but which we have the restaurant celebrated their in its own Nepali way. Keeping oftenO heard our older generation guest’s appetite. in mind that the spices cannot re-iterate, is the sad fact that we The popcorns teased our be too penetrable for the visitors often tend to forget relishing in hunger, the slightly fried boiled here, the set was flavored with our own traditions and cultural potatoes tried to excite us for diluted spices but with just the practices. At restaurants, when what was coming, the quati right hit. My favorite off the set it comes to ordering food my (bean) soup calmed our eager- were the chicken chhoela and dal-bhat-tarkari is my last op- ness, followed by momo: the spinach that were flavored with tion. My usual motto, and many defacto Nepali food that set our ghew (Nepali butter). can relate with this, is: if I am stomachs’ drums rolling. going out for dinner why not And then came the big fat Thakali set: A thakali meal for try something which is different feast. any visitor is a must try. It is from what I eat regularly eat at the authentic Nepali dinner: home. But sometimes, I guess, Samay Baji Set: Samay Baji is a daal-bhat-tarkari that is cooked trying something different brings sort of staple food for the Newars every day in every Nepali home. us back in a circle to acknowledg- with samay, chhoela, aalu wali, And therefore, if you want to ing our own Nepali palette as the bara, egg, achhar, spinach. The dine the Nepali way, what you finest authentic dinner that one platter is rich with flavor and is should order for is a thakali can go for. usually spicy. The Nepali Chulo set. The Nepali Chulo Thakali set served in a bronze plate had kalo daal, bhat, tarkari, golbheda-ko-achhar, spinach, and chicken curry. The Kalo daal and the chicken curry were my favorite in this platter. It set my stomach rumbling. I should say, it’s easier to fall in love with Nepali food when you are served such a rich flavor in our staple food. I think, the good thing about devouring a delicious Nepali authentic dinner is that it enhances our appreciation for good food and it did just that for me. Ne- pali Chulo surprised me with its authenticity and did not make me question why I did not go for the unusual.

94 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 The network of extraordinary journeys

GoSAINKUNDA Experience Share your journeys on the Great Himalaya Trails with #MyGHT Photo courtesy: Prajwol Maharjan

August 2016 | ECS NEPAL 97 How to

A Beginner’s Guide to Mountain Photography With Mohan Duwal Text: Madeleine Dolling

ost people meet Nepal for the first time through someone else’s stunning mountain photography. Many are those who have wan- M dered the Great Himalaya Trails in search for the perfect shot to capture the essence of this fascinatingly diverse country, be it through the impossibly high peaks, the spiritual mountain culture or the unending natural beauty. Those gorgeous images you see don’t come easily. Unpredictable weather patterns, harsh climates and the sheer effort it takes to just get to the location you want to shoot are some of the challenges awaiting the aspiring mountain photog- Chase storms, not Keep yourself moti- rapher in Nepal. blue skies vated Someone who knows quite a bit about the trials In the Himalayas a scene Shooting in the Hima- of mountain photography is Bhaktapur native Mohan can change dramatically at any layas is challenging, both physi- Duwal, a web-designer and developer by trade but given moment due to the weath- cally and mentally. You need to be photographer by design. er. Therefore, picking the right physically fit, alert and patient. If When he’s not taking photos of his favorite subject; time to shoot is crucial. Many you’re not used to the altitude you his cuter than cute daughter, Mohan heads out on the beginners think a sunny day is may feel lethargic and opt to stay in Great Himalaya Trails to capture one of his favorite the best time to head out with the lodge to rest rather than go out scenes: Nature. And Nepal, as you know, has its fair the camera – but an overcast day to explore your surroundings. Alti- share of it. with the looming threat of rain tude sickness is also something to To get you prepared for your photographic journey may present you with a better factor in if you’re headed into the of Nepal, Mohan has served us his top 5 handy tips on opportunity to create a moody high mountain region so be aware shooting in the Himalayas. image with ominous overtones. of how you’re feeling and know Look for storms, wind, mist, how to pre-empt altitude sickness Location, location, location Carry light gear dramatic cloud formations, sun before it takes hold. These are shining through dark skies, rain- things I had to battle with in the Nepal is a special place on this earth and ev- Choosing the right gear is an important factor. Remember bows, sunsets and sunrises and early days when I started with erything around us is a masterpiece waiting to you’ll be trekking for many hours a day to get that perfect shot work with these variations in the mountain photography but soon be captured through our lens – from lifestyle to nature, so you don’t want to be weighed down by unnecessary equipment. weather rather than just waiting learned to control, which is impor- culture and people, landscape and wildlife and much, Try to avoid unwanted heavy gear and make sure you carry light for the next sunny blue sky day. tant, especially if you are shooting much more. Personally I like to shoot in the mountains accessories like 3-4 batteries, ND filter/Polarizing filter and a light on assignment and may not have and especially along the circuit treks like Annapurna tripod. I go for a 16-35mm lens for wide angle shots, 55mm prime Composition is key the luxury of rest days. Circuit and Manaslu Circuit. The trails start around lens for portraits and a 55-300mm lens for close range landscapes. Good composition is key Furthermore, the weather 300m and reach up to 5400m which gives fantastic At the moment I have a Sony A7r (full frame) camera and a cheap, for taking good photo- is fickle in the mountains and theme variety. You’ll get a chance to see different types lightweight tripod. (All images in this graphs, yet it’s some- patience is important, especially article are taken by of flora and fauna, waterfalls, beautiful mountains and thing very difficult to define. when waiting for the perfect Mohan Duwal. meet with many different cultures along the way. From top: While shooting in the moun- conditions for the shoot or mood Meena Sherpa, tains, or any other landscape you want to capture. Stay positive, proprietor of Khangba Ngingba, really, always spend time looking have fun and be flexible if the per- one of the for a good foreground element fect setting isn’t presenting itself. oldest houses in and maintain focus from fore- To get inspired for your next Namche./ Riding on the edge in ground to background. Work to shoot, head over to the #MyGHT Upper Mustang / get the sharpest possible image. photo feed on Instagram with Beautiful smile You have to go very wide to cap- images from all over the Great by a local girl in Syangboche, ture the entire scene and look for Himalaya Trails shared by profes- Khumjung/ A misty small vignettes within the larger sional photographers and enthu- morning view scene to find new perspective as siastic amateurs alike, all with the at Tengboche./ Searching for well. So both wide and close-up same goal of showing off picture views from lenses are important. perfect Nepal. Everest.)

98 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 August 2016 | ECS NEPAL 99 Adventure GEARS l EXPERIENCE l Place l How to

Wordscape

The Lumbini Gardens, birthplace of Gautam Buddha, is full of historic monuments, Wantimpressive to get monasteries,intimate with and marvelouselephants? statues; a must-visitThen comesite for everyvisit one Chitwan. visiting Nepal.

August 2016 | ECS NEPAL 101 Travel Kathmandu and Pokhara in Just One Week A week-long action-packed travel itinerary to Nepal

In a busy world it is becoming harder and harder to find time to spend on a long vacation abroad. That, however, should stop no one from coming to Nepal and making the most of their time here. Kathmandu and Pokhara are the two scenic cities of Nepal offering the right balance of culture and nature, serenity and adventure in an action packed week. Find a suggested itinerary here:

SUShim Thapaliya

102 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 August 2016 | ECS NEPAL 103 Day Tang Yue Fan 2 Sightseeing in kathmandu

After breakfast, hire a local taxi to visit Pashupatinath- the famous sacred Hindu temple that attracts pilgrims from all over the world. After visit Sway- ambhunath, a sacred Buddhist Stupa. Lunch can be had at the famous Kathmandu Durbar Square and the “infamous” hip- pie abode of Freak Street, sitting next to the palatial ruins of 2015 earthquake. Late afternoon can be spent in Bhaktapur Durbar Square indulging the famous Juju Dhau (Sweet Yogurt). The same evening, you could drive to nearby hill station of Nagarkot and enjoy the spectacular sunset spending the night there.

Day 3 Travel to Pokhara The morning in Nagarkot must be spent reveling in the spectacular sunrise along with breakfast. Nagarkot is known for its majes- Day tic view of sunrises and sunsets. Leave for Pokhara right after breakfast. The 6-7 hour long drive is made easy, thanks to the numerous beautiful scenic Welcome to Nepal views along the way. Mouthwa- tering Nepali food is available Upon your arrival in Kath- recommended during tourist around Mugling and Malekhu. mandu, you can take a taxi or seasons. Having just arrived, Make sure you stop for lunch. a pre-ordered vehicle, which you can spend the first day You will be reaching Pokhara by 1 will pick you up from the Trib- feasting on some authentic early evening. Check in to your huwan International Airport Nepali food whilst enjoying the hotel and rest and later explore and take you to your hotel. scenic view of the hills and the the lake side street and its life Advanced booking hotels is busy city itself. around nightfall.

104 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 August 2016 | ECS NEPAL 105 Day 4 Sightseeing in Pokhara After breakfast go sightseeing around Pokhara. Recommended activities are boating in the mysterious Fewa Lake (you could row one on your own or hire a boatman), paragliding and also visiting the famous temples such as Tal Barahi. You could also visit Devi’s Fall, Mahendra Cave and Day the Bat cave. Choose the activities Return back to Kathmandu you most like and savor those instead Since it is a 6-7 hour drive, it is advisable to leave rather early from of trying to do all in the same go. Pokhara in the morning, right after breakfast. While on your way After some shopping and dinner you back you could visit Manakamana Temple, which can be reached can return back to the hotel, enjoy through a rope-way/ cable car. After returning back to Kathmandu the sun setting behind the green hills. 5 you check in to a hotel and rest.

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Devendra shahi

ountaineering is one of the most adventurous and challenging task. Although there are different kinds of adventurous activities in the world, mountaineeringM is incomparable. The formal history of mountaineering in Nepal dates back to the May 29, 1953 AD when Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa successfully climbed the Everest. Even though many successful/unsuccessful attempts were carried out to climb different mountains in Nepal before this, none were able to garner this much reputation and recognition. The unrecorded history of mountaineering in Nepal stretches further back in times. Today, thousands of mountaineers climb different mountains of Nepal which has increased the government’s revenue on one hand and improved the livelihood of the local people on the other. Further, it has promoted the mountains of Nepal around the globe.

Island Peak expedition Among the number of regions with beautiful Peaks and mountains in Nepal, Khumbu region is recognized as different and unique in its own way. Khumbu is not only famous for Mt. Ever- est rather other prominent peaks & mountains, Sherpa communities & their culture, historical Namche bazaar is what that makes this region unique. This time also, Island peak expedition gets started from Kathmandu. After reaching Lukla by plane, it took us two days of hiking to reach the beautiful Namche bazaar of the Khumbu region. Namche bazaar was always the center of Khumbu region even before Everest got recognition. Namche was Sherpa’s local market (Haat- bazaar) from long time ago. Today, Namche

108 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 August 2016 | ECS NEPAL 109 ECS Nepal Partner Hotels

Airport Hotel Club Himalaya Dhulikhel Moutain Resort

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Gokarna Forest Resort Hotel Country Villa Hotel Del Annapurna

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the base camp, the team starts Hotel Shangrila and Shangrila Village climbing towards high camp. It is Hotel Radisson Hotel Goodwill Resort here at high camp, where all the final preparations like necessary equipment, medicines, foods as well as mental preparation for climbing is done. Taking assis- tance of one another or Sherpa guide is of utmost necessity as you scale upward. You will have Lazimpat, Kathmandu, Tel: 4423888 Kumaripati, Kanibahal, Tel: 5544520 Lazimpat, Kathmandu, 4421329, 4410466, to be prepared to sit in ice and Email: [email protected] Web: www.goodwillhotelpatan.com Gharipatan, Pokhara, Nepal endure the temperature below Web: www.radisson.com/kathmandu Tel: 977 61 462222 / 460224 Email: [email protected] -20 degrees. The dry wind blows causing breathing difficulty. Hyatt Regency Hotel Tibet International Hotel Yak & Yeti Also, altitude sickness is another major problem for climbers causing many people to retreat even before the real expedition starts. It is midnight when we start our final ascension towards the top. After 7-8 hours, we reach the top of the island peak, a great feeling arises within and Boudha Kathmandu, Nepal, Tel: 4491234 Boudha, Kathmandu Tel: 4488188 / 4467741 Durbar Marg, Kathmandu Tel: 01-4240520 is the most developed place in place has a photogenic features I wonder, if it is this feeling that Email: [email protected] Web: www.hoteltibetintl.com.np Email: [email protected] that region. Since it is located at because you don’t need to adjust pulls hundreds of climbers from the most appropriate altitude, angle for taking a picture. On across the sea to the top of these Paradise Inn (Hotel Chautari) Park Village Hotel & Resort Shanker Hotel Climbers & trekkers stay at least the way from chhikum to Island mountains. It is really tough to 2 days in Namche for altitude peak base camp at 5,087 metres conquer these tall mountains. acclimatization. Moving ahead (16,690 ft) called Pareshaya But as one of the foreign climber from the Namche, we reached Gyab, the mountains along with says, “If conquering these moun- Dingboche, gateway of Island the Imja glacier lake will really tains wasn’t this tough and risky, peak, in three days. Between entice you. where would I go to make my Dingboche and Chhikum, there At the base camp, prepara- adrenaline rush. I live at sea but I is mesmerizing landscape. As a tions are done for Island peak am in love with these mountains Nagarkot, Tel: 4424589 / 4424656 Budhanilkantha, Kathmandu, Tel: 4373935 Lazimpat, Kathmandu, Tel: 4410151 photographer, I can say that this summit. After few days stay at because they make me alive.” Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Web: www.shankerhotel.com Web: www.paradiseinn.com.np Web: www.kghhotels.com

110 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 TheBuzzl l Market Watch Events News

Instameet Akuj Instameet Akuj was held on the 9th of July. It was Pinnacle Brand Launch Instagramers Nepal’s (@igersnepal) collaboration On 5th July, the lar choice among Huesen in one with Deli Akuj and Bhav Products to connect Nepali Pinnacle Brands Hollywood and Bol- store. It has more Instagram users. With around 50 participants, the lauched two new lywood stars due to than 240 stores all meet was divided into 3 sessions: Meet and Greet, international fran- its unique designs across India and Capsule Challenge and Lekhau (A basic handwriting chise stores in Kath- and authentic, has complete collec- session with Bhav) mandu- Amrapali world-class crafts- tions of menswear You can know more about the meet using #insta- Jewels and Planet manship. The store for all occasions meetakuj. Fashion, which will has affordable silver from formal to ca- Instameet is group of Instagram users meeting up to Mahindra launches ARJUN NOVO be located at the and gold plated jew- sual wear. Both the take photos and videos together. Instagramers Nepal 605 DI tractors in Nepal ground floor or Civ- elry for all events. stores will be offer- regularly hosts Instameets in Nepal from time to time. il Mall, Sundhara. Planet fashion, ing a promotional Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.’s falls in 60 HP category. The new With stores in as the name sug- discount upto 10% Farm Equipment Sector (FES), ARJUN NOVO 605 DI is in line U.S.A, U.K, Japan gests, is a clothing till 20th July, 2016. a part of the USD 17.2 billion with Mahindra’s vision of becom- and India, Amrapali brand that houses They will be Mahindra Group & Agni Group ing the pioneer in providing tech- Jewels is a global top-notch names- launching three today announced the launch nology driven farming solutions brand, which has Louis Philippe, Al- more international of the new Mahindra ARJUN to farmers across the country. been a very popu- len Solly and Van brands in 2016. NOVO -605 DI, the most techno- With new benchmarks in technol- logically advanced and stylishly ogy, comfort and ergonomics, the designed new generation tractor, latest offering from the Mahindra based on a whole new platform. stable, is all set to change farming GALLERIA: MEN CLOTHING STORE The new platform would be practices and improve efficiency Shopping for men is a difficult task. There aren’t as many clothing offered in range from 55-75 HP and quality of output, leading to stores for men as there are for women in Kathmandu. Galleria has & right now the product offered Farm Tech Prosperity. made it easy for men to shop. It is a branded store for readymade clothes for men. Galleria is a solely owned store by Mr. Hirawat and is under a partnership for the brand Clarks with Mr. Dipesh Hyderabadi Kebab and The Invincible One Khetan in Labim Mall. Galleria in Labim mall is operating since Biryani Fest 3 weeks. The owner was motivated to open this store because he Hansraj Hulaschand & Co. Pvt. Ltd. added a new edition of Bajaj bike in its always wanted to be under business community. The store has The Hyderabadi Kebab The menu offers a vast existing range of motorbikes with its band new creation – the Bajaj V15. and Biryani fest that took range of delectable spe- This stellar new bike by Bajaj was launched at a happening event which was two brands namely Galerius and Pierre Cardin. It believes that interestingly themed after the Nepalese Gurkha Army. The event showcased the it upholds a certain standard and promotes the culture, updated place in Hotel Yak & Yeti cials like Nizami Hand daily ‘war’ of people against traffic and pollution on the streets as the Gurkha to complement today’s on-the-go lifestyle. from 15th-22nd July 2016 Biryani, Kachche Gosht Army fights against enemines in warzones. An innovative Khukri dance was brought the mouth-water- Biryani, Whole Masala performed for the guests which captured the hearts of many attending the event. ing Hyderabadi cuisine Rawa Fish, Kasturi Murg Berger Double Protection Offer consisting of succulent Kebab, Seafood kebab, One of Nepal’s leading paint manufacturers – Berger Paints, has come Kebabs and steaming hot Bharwan Aloo Dum, Aloo Inauguration of CG|NXT GEN out with an exciting monsoon offer for its customers, entitled ‘Berger Biryanis to Nepal. Cooked Udayagiri, Subji Pancha- Double Protection Offer’. The offer is on its highest selling exterior brand in aromatic flavors which mel, Gobi Muslum, Dh- A new initiative has been recently the new launches in future. Mr. Arun – Weather coats All Guard Exterior Emulsion. The company is giving an started by the CG|NXT GEN being Kr Chaudhary did the inauguration , attractive umbrella for FREE with purchase of every 20 liters of Berger are prepared by the highly ingri Hara Piyaj Masala the fist of it’s kind brand center of CMD-CG|NXT GEN and Mr. Sha- Weather coat All Guard Exterior Emulsion. Out with the slogan “Weather talented chefs with exotic and many more. It also Suzuki which will be displaying the shank Srivastav, Executive Director coat All Guard Le Ghar Ko Protection, Chhata Bhaye Monsoon Ma No spices and rare ingredi- includes some continental Tension” the offer is endorsed by renowned comedian Sandip Chhetri and ents are an absolute treat dishes if one wishes for a new premium line of Suxukir prod- International Business, Mruti Suzuki popular actress Nisha Adhikari. ucts like Baleno, Scross, Ciaz and all India Ltd. CG|Motorcop. for the taste buds. palette cleanser. [email protected] ECS www.kathmanduecoresort.com Chandra Ban Eco-Resort courses Kathmandu, Nepal In order to improve the skills and knowledge of your household staff, ECS offers the following courses this month. Please let us know if you are interested in enrolling your staff for these courses. Phone: 442.6439, 98510.07.900 Email: [email protected] to book a place.

Employment Services Special Cooking Many excellent staff are registered with us, including cooks, guards, gardeners, maids and drivers. for household staff Our list is constantly updated. Interviews are carried at our office to help resolve language problems ECS cooking course is an opportunity for your maid Luxury lodge. between our clients and the staff. If you are looking for efficient and reliable staff, please or cook to improve his/her cooking skills. At the Beautiful, rural come and discuss your requirements with us and don’t forget to register your staff with us end of this course, participants will be able to work home-stay. before you leave. PLACEMENT FEE: Rs.5,000 as a cook independently and can even organize a Budanilkantha small party. The course content includes information under Shivapuri on different food items for practical cooking and forest. Basic English will also make them aware about kitchen hygiene. 35 minutes from language We teach them how to prepare Indian, Chinese city centre. for household staff and continental items, as well as basic Western Clean air. Splendid views Our English class for household staff enables cooking techniques like simmer, sauté, etc. We will over the valley. them to communicate with you in simple also discuss how to organize a kitchen, to prepare Minimum 2 English. Language structures are taught along menus, cutting techniques, steps for serving food nights stay. with vocabulary that is related to household during small and big parties. This course helps them SPECIAL matters (for daily use). Oral communication improve their skills so your staff will not only serve RATES FOR skills will be emphasized in this course rather you better while you are here, but they will find it RESIDENTS. than reading and writing skills. easier to find a job when you leave. Nepali Venue: Maharajgunj Fee: Rs.15,000 Language Indian cooking course Nepali language CD Participates will be able to cook the Class for The revised ECS Nepali language CD is now following items. available. It gives you the chance not only to Foreigners listen but also to practice your Nepali along ad index ECS Services has been supporting 1) Chicken Biryani with the CD. We feel that this improved CD foreigners to learn the Nepali 2) Paneer Tawa Masala will help you learn the Nepali language more Language (speaking, reading and 3)Bharwa Shimla Mirch effectively. A booklet comes with the CD. writing) for many years. If you would 4) Murgh Makhmali Kabab Auto ISP / WEB DESIGNER / GADGETS PRICE: Rs. 999 (including booklet) GO Ford (02) like to learn or improve your Nepali 5)Pudina Paratha World Link (06) Toyota (27) Subisu (08) vocabulary, please call us. Group or Date: 28th August, 2016 Vijaya Moters (29) Nepal Link (107) individual classes are available. ITNTI (96) Time: 1:00pm to 5:00pm House keeping & BREWERY/CIGARETTE Deluxe Radio (45) Venue: Maharajgunj Global Trading Concern Pvt. Ltd food handling FEE: 1,500 (120) TOURS & TRAVELS for household staff Basic English Shiraj Trading Concern Pvt. Ltd (19) Red Fox (45) Reading & Writing ECS is organizing food handling and hygiene Nepal Distillery (09) Royal Mountain Travel (115) course for your household staff. If you are unsure International cooking for household staff Yeti Distillery ( 117, 119) Greenline (115) whether your staff is aware about hygiene then this Our clients and their staff often face course is the ideal course. This hands-on class includes GIFTS /HANDICRAFT AND SPA & BEAUTY PARLOUR problems when not communicating face Participants will be able to cook the daily hygiene, importance of hand washing GALLERY Lavannya (112) to face. If your staff could read and write following items: and preparation of fruits and vegetables. We Fewa Pashmina (07) memos or notes, things could be easier for will teach them the proper way of cleaning - Tara Oriental (03) Other you. We present this reading and writing 1) Jerk style chicken Himalayan Cashmere (35) tables, windows, kitchen floor and bathroom. Foodmandu (95) course that will enable your household 2) Chicken with chunky pepper sauce Khukuri House (96) Bath ‘n’Room (13, 15) We will also teach them how to take care of a staff to read notes/memos, write simple 3) Soba noodles with vegetables The British College (91) refrigerator. We will discuss how illness is spread sentences, and take telephone messages. 4) Insalata pizza HOTEL, RESTAURANTS AND Annapurna Post (80) and why the corner and behind the door is This will also help your staff to get employed 5) Potatoes with spicy cheese sauce CAFÉS important to clean. We intend this course to help Gokarna Forest Resort (05) after you leave. Hotel Shanker (11) your staff to clean the house properly. Date: 25th September 2016 Venue: Maharajgunj Sangri-la Hotel (76) Time: 1:00pm- 5:00pm Hotel Aannapurna (04) Venue: Maharajgunj Hotel Shambala (25) Fee: Rs. 1,500 Borderlands (107) Chandra Ban Resort (115) Nepali Chulo (17) Maharajgunj, Kathmandu ECS Services offers staff employment services (cooks, Kaze Darbar (20) Phone: 442.6439/98510.07.900 watchmen, gardeners, housemaids and drivers); courses [email protected] for household staff (cooking and health); Nepali language Office Hour: 11:00am to 3:00pm for expatriates and English language for household staff. (Monday through Friday) We hope that these services provided by ECS help make your life more comfortable. 114 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 Where am I ? Sweet in Taste, Sweet at Heart In Kathmandu, a place to escape from hustle-bustle of daily life, a place to enjoy yourselves. Can you guess where I am?

yiqing luo

It is not only a café but the paradise of dessert. Different flavors of cupcakes like chocolate and strawberry can be tasted. Be- sides, the doughnut and brownie served here are also delicious. This café is owned by a Ko- rean couple who have lived in Nepal more than seven years for their love of the relaxed Nepali lifestyle. The couple designed the space themselves and a beautiful painting is hung on own of its wall, created by their friend. Every time I come to this café, I want to spend my whole afternoon here due to the peaceful ambience. Enjoying the sunshine outside the window, I can read some books I like without any disturbance. Sometimes, several high school students will stop by after school. With warm smiles on their faces, they are talking about some interesting things that happened in school that day, sharing their little love secrets or daydreaming about their un- known future with some elegant dessert on the tables. I will watch them for a long time, recalling my high school time when several close friends were around and everyday was a new adventure. That memory tastes just like the chocolate utside a glass win- window, it is a quiet and clean cupcakes in this café, a little bit dow, plenty of cars sweet-smelling place where few bitter at first bite, but soon after, pass by with dust tables and chairs are neatly set. sweet in taste and sweet at heart. Oand smoke and all This glass window is a magic Have you ever been to this we can hear is the honking of door; the place I enter is a magi- magical place? Do you know cars. On this side of the glass cal world. where I am?

116 ECS NEPAL | August 2016 Now all you yeti-hunters, listen American oilman and amateur up. If the 1959 rules still stand you cryptozoologist, to start funding must abide by them: expeditions to the Himalayas to 1) Royalty of Rs. 5000/- Indian find a yeti, dead or alive. Result: Currency (rupees) will have to be zilch. But the increased interest ap- paid to His Majesty’s Government parently alarmed embassy officials of Nepal for a permit to carry out enough to draft the 1959 memo. an expedition in search of ‘Yeti’. Yeti scalp and hand at the 2) In case ‘yeti’ is traced it can be Pangboche Monastery. photographed or caught alive but it Photograph © Don Messer- must not be killed or shot at except schmidt, 1966. in an emergency arising out of self- In 1983, the American Dan defense. All photographs taken of Taylor came back from his own the animal, the creature itself if yeti-hunting expedition in Nepal’s captured alive or dead, must be Barun Valley (east of Everest) surrendered to the Government concluding that it all came down of Nepal at the earliest time. to Asiatic black bears. Similarly, 3) News and reports throwing in 2000, after 12 years of chasing light on the actual existence of the yetis off-and-on, the mountaineer creature must be submitted to the Reinhold Messner concluded that Government of Nepal as soon as they were probably Himalayan they are available and must not in brown bears. Then, in 2009, the any way be given out to the Press famed naturalist Sir David Atten- or Reporters for publicity without borough weighed in, upending Rules for the permission of the Government negative speculation by declaring of Nepal. that “There is very convincing evidence that yetis exist.” Hunting Just days before The Vault Okay..., so the hunt and the posted the rules, Outside maga- hype have continued. zine published a graphic history of Meanwhile, here’s to the in- Spilled Ink yeti lore. It began in 1899, they say, novative directors of Russia’s Yetis when British explorer L. Austine Sheregesh Ski Resort in Siberia’s Waddell encountered large prints Zelyonaya Mountains who an- By Don Messerschmidt while hiking in the Himalayas. nounced in 2013 that they were That was followed by more foot- opening a yeti museum to hail print ‘sightings, mostly around the Abominable Snowman’s exis- hy do we call this Mount Everest. For example, tence. How else do you generate column ‘Spilled Charles Howard-Bury, leader of world attention and attract paying Ink’? Here’s one the 1921 British Mount Everest customers to your resort when it’s good reason - a Reconnaissance Expedition (north so far away in, ...well, in remote W side), describes tracks in the snow Siberia? six decade old American Govern- ment’s Foreign Service dispatch at high altitude. His Sherpas said May the hunt go on! And the regulating yeti-hunting in Nepal. they were made by the Metohkang- marketing of it, which is good for s ‘news’ it’s old and unique mi, or Wild Man of the Snows, aka business. Spilled Ink. (maybe) in the annals of diplo- the Abominable Snowman. And in matic memo-making. It comes to 1953, Edmund Hillary and Tenz- us as an official document dug ing Norgay reported seeing large footprints on their way up Mount A cryptozoologist is someone who searches out of the U.S. State Department for cryptids, animals whose existence is archives. This document was redis- Everest (south side). not proven for lack of evidence. The yeti covered in February 2013 by Slate During the decade of the illustration by Tek Bir Mukhiya is on the 1950s, yeti-mania attracted some cover of ‘An Encounter with the Yeti and magazine’s blog The Vault, under Other Stories’ by Kesar Lall (Nepal, 1991). Historical Treasures, Oddities, very determined and wealthy See Slate magazine’s The Vault blog story at and Delights. No joke! hunters. In 1954, an article in the slate.me/29fqI6u, and Outside magazine’s London’s Daily Mail concluded yeti timeline at bit.ly/29hGTfu. About yeti Back in 1959, the American mischief in Russia see http://doubtfulnews. Embassy in Kathmandu came that hair obtained from a yeti com/?s=yeti+russia. Dan Taylor published up with three rules about hunt- scalp on display at Pangboche his yeti-hunting story in ‘Something Hidden monastery were probably from Behind the Ranges: A Himalayan Quest’ ing yetis. An embassy counselor (2000). And see ‘Tom Slick and the named Fisk signed off on them as a coarse-haired hoofed animal. Search for Yeti’ (1989) by Loren Coleman. addenda to existing regulations (The scalp was later stolen.) By Meanwhile, if you find a yeti dead or alive 1957, such international attention and don’t mind breaking Rule #3 to tell the on Mountaineering and Scientific world about it, contact Spilled Ink first with Expeditions in Nepal. encouraged Tom Slick, a wealthy the details, at [email protected].

118 ECS NEPAL | August 2016