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Home , Arctic Circle, Aufeis, Brooks Range, Chandalar River, Dalton Highway, Dillon Mountain

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DaDa i g w a y

Visitor Guide

Road Conditions . . pages 6-7

Points of Interest . . . . .page 8

Bear Safety ...... page 16 Contents Ultimate Road Adventure

Trip Planning The is a rough, industrial road that begins 84 /134 km of Fairbanks and ends 414 miles/662 km later in 4 Preparing and Safety Deadhorse, the industrial camp at Prudhoe Bay. It provides a rare 6 Mileage Chart opportunity to traverse a remote, unpopulated part of to the 11-14 Maps very top of the . Traveling this farthest-north road involves real risks and challenges. This publication will help you decide 23 Planning Your Trip whether to make the journey, how to prepare, and how to enjoy your experience. Please read this information carefully. Exploring Know Before You Go 8-11 Points of Interest • There is no public access to the Ocean from Deadhorse. 15 An Icebound Land You must be on an authorized tour. Call toll-free 1-877-474-3565; 17 Watching Wildlife in Fairbanks, 474-3565. 18 Recreation • There are no medical facilities between Fairbanks and Deadhorse, a distance of 500 miles/800 km. For emergency information, see the back page. Facilities and Services • Food, gas, and vehicle repair service are extremely limited. 5 Visitor Centers See page 5. 18 Campgrounds • There is limited cell phone service and public Internet connection between Fairbanks and Deadhorse. The Dalton Highway

BLM Coordinator: Kelly Egger

Contributors: Eugene Ervine, Lenore Heppler, Lisa Shon Jodwalis, Craig McCaa, Pam Rice. John Rapphahn, Crystal Glassburn, Oles, Jason Post

Produced and Designed by

All photos courtesy of the BLM unless otherwise noted. Arctic Interagency Visitor Center The award-winning Arctic Interagency Visitor Center introduces Printed on recycled paper using soy-based inks. visitors from around the world to the unique and extreme environment of the Arctic. Explore interpretive exhibits, walk the nearby The Dalton Highway Visitor Guide is trails, and talk with our knowledgeable staff to learn more about the published by the Alaska Geographic ’s history, natural environment, and recreation opportunities. Association in cooperation with the Bureau The visitor center is a partnership between the Bureau of Land of Land Management. This free publication is made possible by Alaska Geographic Management, the National Park Service, and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife bookstore sales. Service, and hosts an Alaska Geographic Association bookstore.

©Alaska Geographic Open Daily from May 24 to September 16, from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Phone: 907-678-5209 or 907-678-2014 (summer only). Cover photo: The Bettles /Sukapak Mountain, MP 204. BLM photo by www.blm.gov/learn/interpretive-centers/aivc Carl Kretsinger Click on “Visitor Centers” and then on “Arctic Interagency Visitor Center” 2 Built for Black Gold

In 1968, oil was discovered at Prudhoe Bay on Alaska’s North Slope. Excitement was high at the prospect of new money to fuel Alaska’s boom-and-bust economy. The nation was in the throes of an energy crisis and pushed for an 800--long (1290 km) pipeline. But first, native land claims had to be settled, permits granted, environmental safeguards designed, and a road built to get workers and supplies north to the oil field. When finally approved, construction of the Trans- Alaska Pipeline was run like a wartime project— money was no object and time was of the essence. The conditions, terrain, and the immensity 2019 marks the 45th anniversary of the completion of the Haul Road, of the project were all extreme. Engineers overcame now known as the Dalton Highway. , mountain ranges, and the relentless flow of the River in the process. Incredibly, the The highway was open only to commercial traffic Haul Road was completed in just five months and until 1981, when the state allowed public access to the pipeline in three years (1974-77). The previously Disaster Creek at Milepost 211. In 1994, public access remote Arctic was changed forever. was allowed all the way to Deadhorse for the first time. Today, the Dalton Highway beckons adventurous souls Haul Road or Highway? to explore a still-wild and mysterious frontier. Respect At first, the highway was called the Haul Road because this harsh land and appreciate the opportunity to visit almost everything supporting oil development was a special part of our world. “hauled” on tractor-trailer rigs to its final destination. In 1981, the State of Alaska named the highway after James B. Dalton, a lifelong Alaskan and expert in arctic engineering who was involved in early oil exploration efforts on the North Slope.

“....I trucked the Haul Road to Prudhoe a few hundred times and fshed Grayling Lake and hunted the Fork Koyukuk for 10 years in a row. I really, really miss it—the beauty, quiet, and the freedom it brings one’s mind. It’s defnitely the best mental medicine on .”

Marshall Casteel Myrtle Creek, Oregon 3 Weather Preparing for Summer temperatures can occasionally reach the high 80s F (27-30°C) south of the and average the Long Haul in the 50s F (10-15°C) in Coldfoot. Thunderstorms are common in early summer, especially between Before you leave Fairbanks Fairbanks and the , and may bring • Inspect all tires and make sure they are properly inflated and sudden squalls. In general, June and • Check all vehicle fluids July are drier months, but rainy days are frequent • Replace worn hoses and belts throughout the summer. • Empty your RV’s holding tank and fill the water tank Weather on the North Slope is frequently windy, • Purchase groceries and supplies foggy, and cold. Snow can occur at any time of the Bring for your vehicle year, especially from the Brooks Range north. In • At least two full-sized spare tires mounted on rims Deadhorse, average summer temperatures are in the • Tire jack and tools for flat tires 30s and 40s F (0-5°C). • Emergency flares • Extra gasoline, motor oil, and wiper fluid Flash Floods • CB radio Heavy or prolonged can cause local flash floods anytime during the summer. Running water may cover Bring for yourself the road or wash out culverts and bridges. Do not • Insect repellent and head net attempt to cross flooded areas. • Sunglasses and sunscreen • Rain jacket and pants Wildfires • Warm clothes, including hat and gloves Wildfires may burn out of control and across the • First aid kit highway. Do not drive through areas of dense smoke • Drinking water or flames—you could get trapped by swiftly changing • Ready-to-eat food conditions and find yourself unable to reach safety. • Camping gear, including sleeping bag • Personal medications Wildlife • Toilet paper and hand sanitizer Treat all wild animals with caution. Keep a clean • Garbage bags camp so you don’t attract wildlife. Do not approach or feed any animals. and muskoxen may appear tame, but can be dangerous if approached too closely. Safety Tips Never get between a cow and her calves. If moose feel threatened they will flatten their ears, raise the hair Phones and Internet on their neck, and may charge. and foxes on • There is limited cell phone coverage and public Internet the North Slope may carry rabies. Avoid all contact access between Fairbanks and Deadhorse. Both are between these animals and yourself and your pets. available in Deadhorse. Coldfoot Camp and Yukon Crossing See page 17 for more information on where to look for have wi-fi (fee). wildlife. • Pay phones: You can use a calling card at the Yukon River Camp, Coldfoot, Wiseman, and Deadhorse. • phones: Some companies in Fairbanks rent satellite phones; check the phone directory under radio. Drinking Water • It’s best to bring water with you. If you must use stream water for cooking or cleaning, treat it first by boiling rapidly for 3-5 minutes, or by using iodine tablets or a water filter. Giardia is widespread in Alaska waters and is highly contagious. Fireweed abounds due to recent fre activity near the pipeline. 4 Visitor Information Centers

In Fairbanks Morris Thompson Center Alaska Public Lands Information Center 101 Dunkel Street, #110 Fairbanks, AK 99701 Phone: 907-459-3730 Fax: 907-459-3729 [email protected] Open: year-round Services Are Limited At the Yukon River Notice: There are no public services at Department of Transportation Yukon Crossing Visitor maintenance stations or Alyeska Pipeline Service Company pump stations. Contact Station/AKGeo book store located on the Medical Facilities: There are no public or emergency medical facilities along east side of the highway just the Elliott or Dalton highways. north of the Yukon River Banking: There are no banks. ATM machines are available in Deadhorse. Most bridge. No phone. Closed in services accept major credit cards and traveler’s checks. winter. Yukon River camp is open year-round. Groceries: There are no grocery stores along the highway. Snack food and cafés are available at several . In Coldfoot Phone: There is limited cell phone coverage from Milepost 28 Arctic Interagency until just outside of Deadhorse. Wi-fi available for a fee at Coldfoot Camp and Visitor Center Yukon Crossing. Coldfoot, MP 175 ss ss Phone: 907-678-5209 SERVICES Yukon Crossing Five Mile Coldfoot Wiseman Deadhorse (summer only). Open daily Gas from May 24–September 16. Tire/Vehicle Repair Closed in winter. Restaurant Lodging Public Phone Post Ofce Shower Water Laundry Dump Station Tent Camping RV Parking Gift Shop/Local Crafts Visitor Center/Museum

closed in winter ss limited services in winter 5 Road Conditions Rules of the Road

The road is narrow, has soft shoulders, high D Big trucks have the right of way. embankments,and steep hills. There are lengthy stretches of gravel with sharp rocks, potholes, washboard, and, depending on the weather, of D Slow down when passing other vehicles to avoid dust or slick mud. Watch out for dangerous curves and damaging them with flying rocks. loose gravel, especially between Livengood and the Yukon River (MP 0-56). You may encounter snow and D Always drive with your lights on so others can north of Coldfoot any month of the year. Expect see you. and prepare for all conditions. Road construction occurs in various areas and can cause some delay. D Keep your headlights and taillights clean so The Dalton Highway is paved from Milepost 37 to 49 they are visible. and from Milepost 90 to 197 (Gold Creek). Beyond that there is pavement (with breaks) from Milepost 335 D Stay on the right side of the road. (Happy airstrip) to 362.

Proposed Road Construction D Don’t stop on bridges, hills, or curves. • 2018 & 2019 Elliot MP 0-12 & 21 • 2018 Dalton MP 362-379 D Check your rear-view mirror regularly. • 2018 Dalton MP 209-222 D If you spot wildlife, pull over to a safe For current road conditions: before stopping. • 511.alaska.gov • www.alaskanavigator.org/fairbanks D Slower traffic should pull over at a safe location and allow other vehicles to pass.

Mileage Chart

Miles (km) Fairbanks Livengood Yukon River Coldfoot Deadhorse Fairbanks 84 (134) 140 (224) 199 (318) 259 (414) 328 (525) 359 (574) 498 (797) Livengood 84 (134) 56 (90) 115 (184) 175 (280) 244 (390) 275 (440) 414 (662) Yukon River 140 (224) 56 (90) 59 (94) 119 (190) 188 (301) 219 (350) 358 (573) Arctic Circle 199 (318) 115 (184) 59 (94) • 60 (96) 129 (206) 160 (256) 299 (478) Coldfoot 259 (414) 175 (280) 119 (190) 60 (96) 69 (110) 100 (160) 239 (382) Atigun Pass 328 (525) 244 (390) 188 (301) 129 (206) 69 (110) • 31 (50) 170 (272) Galbraith Lake 359 (574) 275 (440) 219 (350) 160 (256) 100 (160) 31 (50) 139 (222) Deadhorse 498 (797) 414 (662) 358 (573) 299 (478) 239 (382) 170 (272) 139 (222) • 6 Road Tips Frequently Asked Questions How long does it take When is the best to make the trip? time to visit? Car Trouble Much depends on weather, A late May trip offers a If your car breaks down, get off the road as far as road conditions, road chance to see thousands possible and set flares. Towing services are available construction, and your own of migrating birds, but from Fairbanks or Deadhorse (907) 659-3308. You will interests. The roundtrip snow may still cover the need to provide credit card information by cell phone to Prudhoe Bay and back ground. From June until demands at least four days. mid-July wildflowers (near Fairbanks or Deadhorse), otherwise by satellite Under good conditions, brighten the and phone or in person if you can arrange for a ride. expect the following driving caribou congregate along times from Fairbanks to: the Coastal Plain. Mid- CB Radios Yukon River 3 August brings rain, cool Truckers and road workers monitor Channel 19. With Arctic Circle 5 hours days, frosty , and the northern lights. Brilliant a CB you can ask them wether it’s safe to pass or tell Coldfoot 6 hours autumn colors peak around them when it’s safe to pass you. In poor visibility, you Atigun Pass 8 hours mid-August on the North can warn oncoming trucks if there are other vehicles Deadhorse 13+ hours Slope, late August in the close behind you. You can communicate with flaggers, Factor in an additional Brooks Range, and early September south of the pilot cars, and heavy equipment operators. 1-2 hours per day for rest Yukon River. Snow begins stops, wildlife viewing, to fly by late August or early Emergency construction delays, and September. bad weather. Be prepared for minor emergencies. In a critical Does the highway close emergency, use a CB radio to call for help and relay a Can I drive, walk in the winter? message to the Alaska State Troopers. If you are in cell or cycle to the No. The road remains open phone range (Fairbanks or Deadhorse) you can call for trucks hauling supplies the troopers at 800-811-0911. It may be many hours ? to the oil fields and camps. NO. Public access ends before help arrives. Although the highway is at Deadhorse, about 8 maintained year-round, miles/13 km from the in winter services of any Rental Cars ocean. Security gates on the kind are only available in Many rental car agreements prohibit driving on the access roads are guarded 24 Coldfoot (MP 175) and hours a day and permits for Deadhorse (MP 414). Dalton Highway and other gravel roads. Violating the individuals to travel on their rental car agreement can be very expensive, especially Winter driving conditions own are not available. There are extremely hazardous. in the event of a malfunction or accident. is only one authorized tour Drivers face snow, ice, , provider. Reservations must whiteouts, and dangerous be made at least 24 hours in cold with windchills to -70° Repairs advance. See back page for Prepare to be self-sufficient. Limited tire and repair F (-57° C). Winter travel information. should be done in a vehicle services are available at only two service stations Are the bugs really that equipped for extreme cold between Fairbanks and Deadhorse—a distance of weather conditions and 500 miles/800 km. They can have parts delivered from bad? proper tires. Winter driving YES! Hordes of mosquitoes experience is essential. Fairbanks, but that’s expensive. emerge in mid-June and last into August. Biting flies and gnats last into September. Insects are worst on calm days and in low, wetland areas. Hike and camp on ridges or wide gravel bars along where a breeze may provide relief. Insect repellents containing DEET are most effective. A head net and bug jacket are essential if you plan on any Dwarf birch outdoor activities. Fueling up in Deadhorse. in autumn. 7 Points of Interest

Hess Creek Overlook (MP* 21) 86-Mile Overlook This pullout looks over Hess Creek meandering At MP 86.5, turn and follow an access road west to meet the Yukon River. In 2003, the Erickson uphill to an active gravel pit for an excellent view of Creek Fire burned almost 118,000 acres (47,200 ha) in the National Wildlife Refuge to the east. this area. Watch out for heavy equipment. Photo by Whitney Root

Finger Mountain Wayside (MP 98) Stop at Finger Mountain to take in the panoramic Take a break at BLM’s Yukon Crossing Visitor Contact Station, views, explore the , and stroll the half- located on the right just after crossing the bridge. Volunteers are mile interpretive trail. Expect strong on this there to assist daily in summer. A short walk takes you to viewing decks on the riverbank. high ridge.

Yukon River (MP 56) Arctic Circle Wayside (MP 115) The mighty Yukon River winds nearly 2,000 Follow the side road a short distance to the Arctic miles/3,200 km from to the Bering . Circle sign and viewing deck with interpretive Athabascan people first traveled this river in birch displays. Enjoy your lunch in the picnic area or drive bark canoes. During the , wood-fired the side road one-half mile uphill to camp in the BLM sternwheelers ferried gold seekers and supplies for campground. trading posts. Today, Yukon River residents use motorboats in summer and snowmachines in winter to travel this natural highway. 60 Mile (MP 60) Public campground, one of four operated by the BLM along the Dalton Highway. It is near an artesian well with potable water and the only public dump station. See page 18. Roller Coaster (MP 75) North of the Yukon River, travelers encounter a series of steep hills named by truckers in the early years of pipeline construction, including Sand Hill (MP 73), Roller Coaster (MP 75), Mackey Hill (MP 87), Beaver Slide (MP 110) and Gobblers Knob (MP 132). Truckers today use the same names. *MP refers to milepost from the beginning of the Dalton Highway. 8 Gobblers Knob (MP 132) What is the Arctic Circle? The pullout here offers an excellent view of the Brooks Range to the north. To see the midnight on The Arctic Circle is an encircling the , climb up the hill to the east. Earth at 66°33° North where the sun does not set on (June 20 or 21) or rise on winter Grayling Lake Wayside (MP 150) solstice (December 21 or 22). As you travel farther An ancient carved this U-shaped valley and left north there are more days with 24- a shallow lake. Moose feed on the nutrient-rich aquatic in summer or 24-hour in winter. At the top of in summer. Charcoal, stone scrapers, and other the world—the —the sun doesn’t set for artifacts found nearby indicate that Native hunters 180 days. used this lookout for thousands of years. Coldfoot (MP 175) The original gold rush town of Coldfoot was located Wiseman (MP 189) on the Middle Fork of the near the Just after crossing the Middle Fork Koyukuk Bridge mouth of Slate Creek. It got its name in 1900 when #1, take the turnoff to the west and follow the signs early prospectors reportedly got “cold feet” and left 3 miles/5 km to the historic village of Wiseman. before winter set in. Established in 1907 when miners discovered gold in nearby Nolan Creek, the town was once a bustling community. Many residents today subsist by hunting, trapping, and gardening, and welcome visitors.

While in Coldfoot, visit the Arctic Interagency Visitor Center. Open daily until 10 pm from May 24–September 16.

Marion Creek Campground (MP 180) This developed campground is operated by the BLM and offers 27 sites. See page 18 for campground details.

Sukakpak Mountain (MP 204) A massive wall that glows in the afternoon sun, is an awe-inspiring sight that rises to 4,459 feet (1,338 m). Peculiar ice-cored mounds known as punctuate the ground at the mountain’s base. “Sukakpak” is an Iupiat word meaning “marten deadfall.” Seen from the north, the mountain resembles a carefully balanced log used to trap marten.

Yellow Dryas Please note that all buildings in the Wiseman area are private property. Please stay on the roads. 9 “...We enjoyed the vast panorama of the Brooks Range... endless mountains rising and falling as if the waves of some gigantic ocean had suddenly become frozen in full motion.” Robert Marshall, Alaska Wilderness (MP 284) The University of Alaska Fairbanks established a Spruce (MP 235) research station here in 1975, and conducts studies As you approach the headwaters of the Dietrich River, on arctic ecosystems and global change. trees grow scarce until they disappear altogether. This Please take care to avoid their research sites, scattered last tall spruce, approximately 273 years old, was killed throughout the surrounding area. There are no public by a vandal in 2004. facilities here and no camping. Access to the station is by invitation only. Chandalar Shelf (MP 237) Dramatic views encompass the headwaters of Slope Mountain (MP 300) the to the east. The next few Slope Mountain marks the northern boundary of the miles traverse a major winter avalanche zone. BLM-managed public land. From here north, the Transportation workers stationed here fire artillery Alaska Department of Natural Resources manages the shells to clear the slopes above the highway. land around the Dalton Highway and Prudhoe Bay. Atigun Pass (MP 244) Happy Valley (MP 334) You cross the at Atigun Pass (elev. Originally the site of a pipeline construction camp, 4,739 ft/1422 m). Rivers south of here flow into the Happy Valley offers easy access to the Sagavanirktok or , while rivers to the north River as well as room for camping. The airstrip is flow into the Arctic Ocean. Watch for , active, so avoid camping or parking there.

which are often on the road or on nearby slopes. Photo by R. Green Dennis Storms can dump snow here even in June and July. Galbraith Lake (MP 275) This is all that remains of a large that once occupied the entire Atigun Valley. A short distance to the east lies the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. To reach the BLM public camping area follow the access road at MP 275 west for 4 miles/6.4 km. The last two miles are on an unimproved road.

Watch for muskoxen near the river from here to the coast. When resting, they look like large, dark humps with a cream-colored “saddle.” 10 Sag River Overlook (MP 348) A short trail leads to a viewing deck with interpretive displays. On a clear day, you can see the Philip Smith Mountains 35 miles/56 km away. “Sag” is short for “Sagavanirktok.” The name is iupiaq in origin and translates as “swift current.” Franklin Bluffs (MP 383) Iron-rich soils on the far bank of the river give the bluffs their vivid colors. They are named after Sir , the British explorer who mapped the Arctic coastline and searched for the . Scan the gravel bars along the river for muskoxen and caribou. Deadhorse (MP 414) Deadhorse is not a town but an industrial camp that supports the Prudhoe Bay oil fields. There are few amenities for visitors. Lodging is extremely limited and there are no grocery stores, public outhouses, or camping areas. The public highway ends about eight miles from the Arctic Ocean. You must be on Visitors enter the chilly waters of the Arctic Ocean. an authorized tour to visit the Arctic Ocean. See back page for information. Deadhorse vicinity map

Aurora Hotel

Permafrost lies only inches beneath the surface of the Coastal Plain, creating a bizarre landscape of wetlands and ice-wedge polygons. From Deadhorse, you travel over permafrost up to 2,000 feet/600 m thick. This aerial photo shows caribou on polygonal ground. 11 Fairbanks to MP 215

12 MP 215 to Deadhorse

13 Coldfoot

S l a t e C r e ek

Middle Fork Koyukuk River Marion Creek Campground 5 mile s Alaska Department of Transportation (no public ser vices)

Coldfoot Airstrip Air Miner's cabin o Alaska Historic Stat e Coldfoot Trooper Cemetery

Pipeline Viewing Platform Arctic Interagency Visitor Center (summer only)

Coldfoot Camp

Post Ofÿce

Trans -Alaska Pipeline Trail

Dalton Highway Inn at Coldfoot Camp

Wiseman

All buildings in Wiseman are private property an y unless otherwise noted. em ter Wiseman Gold Rush Camp B&B/Mining Museum To Ceme Boreal Lodging Harry Leonard's Old Cabin Post Wiseman Creek Office To Air arking strip hway ig on caribou To Dalt3 miles horn gate Kalhabuk windmill Community Prayer Center Pingle Cabin Chapel Wiseman Arctic Getaway Historical Bed & Breakfast Museum windmill public Reakoff outhouse home moose horn pole Wiseman Trading Company

Middle Fork Koyukuk River NOT TO

14 An Icebound Land

The low of the sun means less heat to combat frigid temperatures. Thus, permanently-frozen ground, or permafrost, lies beneath much of northern Alaska and keeps water close to the surface. In arctic landscapes ice creates strange features, some of which you can see along the Dalton Highway.

Pingos look like isolated hills but have thick cores of ice. As freezes it forms a lump of ice. As more water migrates inward the lump slowly grows and forces the ground upwards. Pingos can be decades or thousands of years old. Open-system pingos arise from artesian water in the warmer Interior: a tree-covered one lies west of the road at Milepost 32.7. Closed-system pingos form out of ice beneath old lake beds on the much-colder North Slope.

Frost Mounds look like miniature pingos and also have Percy Pingo rises south of Deadhorse near cores of ice. Mounds in various Milepost 376. stages occur at Sukakpak Mountain, Milepost 204. They arise as groundwater moves downslope through the soil above the permafrost and freezes, pushing up the tundra. Mounds may appear and melt over one or more or last

for many years. Photo by R. Green Dennis

Thermokarsts form when Frost mounds at Sukakpak Mountain. lenses of underground ice thaw, often after a disturbance such as wildfre, earthquake, clearing ground for construction, or a warming period. ponds and lakes often have unstable shores with trees or tundra collapsing inwards along the edge. You can see one west of the highway at Milepost 215. Small thermokarst near the Trans-Alaska Ice-wedge polygons form when the Pipeline. ground freezes, contracts, and cracks in geometric patterns. Water seeps into the cracks and over thousands of years, forms thick wedges of ice that push the soil up into ridges. If the ice in the ridges melts they subside, leaving high-centered polygons. Look for geometrically alongside the highway north of Galbraith Lake. Polygons Aerial view of high-centered polygons. are especially prominent around Deadhorse.

Aufeis, or overfow, forms on streams during winter when the channel ice thickens, constricting the stream fow beneath. The water is forced through cracks onto the surface where it freezes. Over the winter, these sheets of water freeze into thick layers that can fll river valleys and last into August.

Aufeis at Galbraith Lake.

To learn more Permafrost and ice-related features in Alaska are clearly explained and illustrated in Permafrost: A Guide to Frozen Ground in Transition by Neil Davis. 15 This Is Country!

You may encounter anywhere along the Elliott and Dalton highways. Both black and grizzly bears are found south of the Brooks Range, and grizzlies roam all the way to the Arctic Ocean. All bears are potentially dangerous. It is illegal to feed wildlife or leave food where they can get it. Food-conditioned bears become a threat to people and frequently must be destroyed. These tips provide minimum guidelines. Learn as much as you can about being safe around bears! Avoid Encounters Bears often appear tame but are unpredictable. Keep your distance! KEEP A CLEAN CAMP: Store food, garbage, and IF A BLACK BEAR ATTACKS, FIGHT BACK. attractants in bear resistant containers away from your Fight back with everything available to you. tent. Should I carry a firearm? LOOK AND LISTEN: Bears are active both day If you are inexperienced and cannot load, aim, and and night and may appear anywhere. Fresh tracks and shoot accurately in an emergency, you would be better droppings indicate that bears may be close. off carrying pepper spray. DON’T SURPRISE: A startled bear may attack. MAKE NOISE: Let bears know you’re in the area— Does pepper spray work? sing, yell, or clap your hands loudly. Bells may be Pepper sprays have been used successfully to deter ineffective. Be especially careful in thick brush or near bears. Most sprays have an effective range of about noisy streams. 30 feet (9 m), but are greatly affected by wind. Spray should not be used like insect repellent—don’t spray NEVER APPROACH: Stay at least 1/4 mile (400 m) it on your clothes or equipment. Before taking it on an from any bear. Sows may attack to defend their cubs. airplane, tell the pilot so it can be stored safely. If You Encounter a Bear DO NOT RUN! Running may elicit a chase response. Wolves may approach people along the Dalton. In If the bear does not see you, backtrack or detour 2006, two people were chased and one was bitten. quickly and quietly away. Give the bear plenty of room. Some incidents appear to involve food-conditioned If the bear sees you, back away slowly. Speak in a low, wolves. Never approach or feed wolves. Do not calm voice while slowly waiving your arms to appear walk pets in an area where you see wolves or fresh larger to the bear. sign—wolves may act aggressively toward pets, IF A BEAR APPROACHES stand your ground even those on a leash. For more information go to and keep your pack on. Let the bear know you are www.adfg.alaska.gov and type “living with wolves” human. Prepare your deterrent, and back away slowly. in the search bar. If the bear follows, stop and hold your ground. If a bear continues to focus on you or its approach become Do your homework more assertive: raise your voice, beat on pots and pans, use noisemakers, and throw rocks or sticks. Use your • Ask for the brochure Bear Facts, free at any state or deterrent against the bear. federal visitor center. Go to www.adfg.alaska.gov IF A GRIZZLY MAKES PHYSICAL and type “living with bears” in the search bar. CONTACT, PLAY DEAD. Lie flat on your stomach • View the video Staying Safe in Bear Country at the and lace your fingers behind your neck. Your pack Arctic Interagency Visitor Center. may help protect your back and neck. If the bear starts • Read the book Bear Attacks by Stephen Herrero, eating you fight back! available at any Alaska Geographic bookstore. 16 Watching Wildlife

Boreal Forest The boreal forest is the largest forest ecosystem in the world, encircling the entire . A cold, dry climate and areas of permanently frozen ground dictate what grows here. Scraggly spruce trees may be more than a century old. Wildfires recycle nutrients into the soil and create new sources of food and shelter for wildlife. Keep a safe viewing distance to avoid disturbing wildlife. Here you will see few animals unless they cross the road. The forest hides moose, wolf, , black bear, snowshoe hare, lynx, and over 50 species of songbirds. Tips for Viewing Wildlife Beaver, muskrat, and mink may be glimpsed in streams • Be patient. and ponds along with Pacific loon, horned grebe, • Scan open areas such as mountain slopes, widgeon, scaup, and northern shoveler. riverbanks, lakes and meadows. Brooks Range • Use binoculars, spotting scopes, and telephoto Steep, rocky peaks and glacier-carved valleys lenses to bring animals closer. dominate this rugged landscape. Extending over 700 • Stay inside your vehicle—it acts as a viewing blind miles (1120 km) from east to west, the Brooks Range and animals are less likely to flee. separates the Arctic’s plants, birds, and weather • Animals tend to be more active in the evening and systems from . early morning hours. Scan open areas and alpine valleys for moose, caribou, wolf, wolverine, and grizzly. Search the sky for golden Wolf, wolverine, grizzly, red fox, caribou, and eagle and rocky slopes for northern wheatear, Dall sometimes forage near the highway. Hunting birds sheep, and —a species unique to the such as northern harrier, short-eared owl, peregrine, Brooks Range. and gyrfalcon search for arctic ground squirrels, lemmings, and small birds such as longspur North Slope and golden plover. Scan brushy swales for unusual From Slope Mountain north, continuous permafrost songbirds, especially Smith’s longspur, yellow wagtail, lies beneath the surface. Only tough, ground- and bluethroat. hugging plants can survive the frozen ground, frigid temperatures, icy winds, and weak sunlight. In this Coastal Plain treeless landscape you can see animals from great With annual precipitation of about five inches—less distances. than the Sonoran —we expect the Arctic to be dry. But underlying permafrost seals the ground. Vast wetlands provide protein-rich sedges and huge populations of insects and other invertebrates—a banquet for migratory birds and other grazers. Here you may see truly Arctic species such as , , and pomarine jaeger. Caribou congregate to feed in late June and early July. Muskoxen browse along the . Around the numerous ponds, look for tundra swan, ruddy turnstone, phalarope, white-fronted goose and long-tailed duck. At the coast, you may see yellow- billed loon, Sabine’s gull, and three species of eiders— common, king, and spectacled. Dall sheep rams on the road at Atigun Pass. 17 Recreation Along the Dalton

Here you can experience wild Alaska, where the land beyond the highway and pipeline lies virtually untouched. There are no trails, bridges or signs to point the way. Choose your own route, encounter your own challenges, and make your own discoveries. This wild country demands caution, preparation, Marion Creek Campground. and self-reliance. Even for a short day-hike, prepare Hiking for challenging terrain, unpredictable weather, and The best hiking is in the Brooks Range, where ridges medical emergencies. If you have questions about and stream drainages provide firm footing and the where to go or how to prepare, talk with staff at the forest thins to low-growing tundra. Throughout Arctic Interagency Visitor Center in Coldfoot. the Arctic there are wetlands and that hinder Camping walking. Areas of tussocks — basketball-sized clumps of sedge surrounded by watery moss—are particularly Recreational camping is limited to 14 days at any one aggravating. Tussock fields occur in mountain spot. Park well off the road—passing vehicles can fling valleys and dominate the landscape of the North rocks more than 30 feet/9 m off the highway—and do Slope. Waterproof boots with good ankle support are not block access roads to the pipeline. essential. The BLM has four campgrounds (see chart below); Hiking east from the highway will lead you to the none has electrical hookups. Marion Creek, 5 miles/8 Arctic National Wildlife Refuge while hiking west km north of Coldfoot, is a developed campground leads to Gates of the Arctic National Park and with potable water (hand pump), both pull-through Preserve. Choose your route with care and bring and tent-only sites, and a Campground Host available topographic maps and a compass with you; a GPS from late May to early September. can also be useful. Note: the varies 27°- 30° or more east of true north; be sure you adjust your compass. Campgrounds NAME LOCATION SERVICES NOTES 60 Mile 4 miles/6.4 km north of the potable water Best sites are on high undeveloped Yukon River at MP 60 dump station ground near north outhouse entrance. host on site Arctic Circle MP 115, up the hill behind NO WATER No camping at viewing deck undeveloped viewing deck and picnic area outhouse or picnic area. trash containers Marion Creek 5 miles/8 km north of potable water Fee area. A two-mile hike 27 sites, some for RVs Coldfoot at MP 180 outhouse upstream leads to a trash containers 20-foot waterfall. host on site Galbraith Lake MP 275, follow signs to airstrip, creek nearby, treat water Spectacular views of the undeveloped then continue past buildings outhouse trash lake and Brooks Range. 2.5 miles/4 km on containers unimproved road 18 Off-Road Vehicles State statute prohibits off-road vehicles within 5 miles/8 km either side of the highway from the Yukon River to the Arctic Ocean. Canoeing and Rafting There are several excellent river trips along the Dalton. For more detailed descriptions of these rivers, check with the Alaska Public Lands Information Center in Fairbanks or the Arctic Interagency Visitor Center (see back page).

• The Jim River and Middle Fork, Koyukuk River: Class I-II, several access points along the highway. • Atigun and Sagavanirktok Rivers: Class III-IV+ Hunting whitewater, access Atigun at MP 271; Sag at MP 306. Hunting is permitted in most areas, but there are For expert boaters only. special regulations. From the Yukon River north, hunting with firearms is prohibited within 5 • Ivishak National Wild River: Class II, access by miles/8 km either side of the highway. Bow hunting chartered air service from Deadhorse or Coldfoot. is permitted within most of this area. Hunting is Gold Panning prohibited in the Prudhoe Bay Closed Area. Sport Panning is permitted on a few federal stream segments hunting is prohibited in Gates of the Arctic National along the Dalton Highway south of Atigun Pass Park, but permitted in Gates of the Arctic National (MP 244). No panning in the pipeline right-of-way Preserve. Be sure you have accurate maps of the (27 feet/8.2 m on either side of the pipeline) and no boundaries. panning on federal mining claims without permission. For complete regulations, maps of closed areas, and Recreational suction dredging is prohibited in the assistance in planning your hunt, please contact the Utility Corridor. Alaska Department of Fish and Game at 907-459-7206. For detailed information, pick up a copy of Panning Backcountry for Gold along the Dalton Highway at one of the visitor centers. This free brochure lists creeks and rivers that Backcountry visitors to Gates of the Arctic National are open to the public for recreational panning and Park may register at the Arctic Interagency Visitor rates their potential for gold.

Center in Coldfoot (open daily in summer). All hikers Photo by Lisa Shon Jodwalis may borrow bear-resistant containers for free from the Center on a first-come, first-served basis. Fishing Arctic grayling, whitefish, Dolly Varden, Arctic char, lake trout, burbot, and northern pike can all be found in the . Fish in the Arctic grow and reproduce slowly and are susceptible to overharvest. Anglers are encouraged to use barbless hooks and release fish without injury. The following regulations are in effect 5 miles/8 km either side of the highway: fishing for salmon is prohibited; lake trout are catch-and-release only; daily bag and possession limit for Arctic grayling is 5 fish. You need an Alaska sport fishing license and a current regulations booklet for the Arctic-Yukon-Kuskokwim Region. Rafters portage around a big drop on the Atigun. 19 Photo by John Schauer Do I Need a Permit for That?

If you are thinking of making a film or video for gain, starting a tour operation, or otherwise using public resources for commercial sale, you first need a permit from the agency or agencies managing the area you’re interested in. Permit applications can take up to 180 days to process. See back page for agency contact information.

Backcountry Hazards Where’s the best place to view If you venture off the highway, know that there are the ? very real risks and proceed with caution. You will At the Arctic Circle, the midnight sun circles the probably not see anyone else and you are likely to be northern and drops behind the Brooks Range. far from help. The closest view is from the hill above Gobblers Knob • Streams and rivers are bitter cold, and heavy rain at MP 132, 17 miles/27 km farther north. If you travel or snow can swell them to dangerous levels. Know north of Atigun Pass (MP 245) you can experience the the proper techniques before attempting to cross, or full 24 hours of sunlight. change your route to avoid hazardous crossings. • Minimize animal encounters (see page 17); keep your camp and gear clean; cook at least 100 feet/30 m from your tent site; use bear-resistant food containers and store them away from camp and cook areas; carry out all waste. • Treat all water to prevent infection by Giardia. • Prepare for sudden and ; snow can fall anytime in the Brooks Range and on the North Slope. Know how to prevent, recognize, and treat How cold does it get in winter? hypothermia before heading out. The coldest temperature ever recorded in the was -80°F/-62°C at Prospect Camp, 39 miles/62 km south of Coldfoot in 1971. On January 28, 2012, an unofficial temperature of -79° F/-62° C was recorded at nearby Jim River Maintenance Station. Then the weather station battery died.

LEAVE NO TRACE • Plan Ahead and Prepare • Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces • Dispose of Waste Properly • Leave What You Find • Minimize Campfire Impacts • Respect Wildlife • Be Considerate of Other Visitors 20 Wild Spaces, Public Places

Most of the land you Gates of the It offers extraordinary Yukon Flats see from the Dalton Arctic National wilderness, recreation, National Wildlife Highway is federal public and wildlife values. The land, a legacy for future Park & Preserve Herd Refuge Much of the Brooks Encompassing an area generations. These (named for the Porcupine Range west of the Dalton larger than Vermont and areas are so unique that River on the herd’s Highway lies within one Connecticut combined, Congress established migration route), polar of the premier wilderness this refuge protects a special designations bears, muskoxen, and areas in the National vast complex of lakes which honor their special snow geese depend on its Park System. Forester and rivers in the Yukon values to the nation and unspoiled environment. and conservationist watershed upstream from the world. Pioneer Alaska Robert Marshall explored the Dalton Highway. conservationists Margaret the area in the 1930s. Wildlife, especially The Utility and Olaus Murie traveled Impressed by two massive migratory birds such Corridor the region by dog team peaks flanking the North as ducks, geese, and In 1971 after oil was and canoe, and were Fork of the Koyukuk songbirds, thrive in these discovered on the North instrumental in gaining River, he called them the wetlands and support the Slope, the Utility Corridor refuge status for the area. “Gates of the Arctic.” hunting and gathering was established to protect Encompassing 8.4 million tradition of Yukon River the route of the Trans- Kanuti National acres, the park and villages. Alaska Pipeline. The Wildlife Refuge preserve protect primeval Corridor’s boundaries Located west of the landscapes, their flora vary from less than a Finger Mountain area and fauna, and the culture mile to nearly 12 miles/19 and slightly larger than and traditions of Native km from the pipeline. the state of Delaware, people. While the corridor’s this refuge protects primary function is the Arctic National large wetland areas that transportation of energy are critical to nesting resources, the Bureau Wildlife Refuge waterfowl and other Bordering the Utility of Land Management wildlife. These resources Corridor near Atigun encourages recreational provide sustenance for the Canyon, this refuge activities such as hiking, people of the Koyukuk extends east across the fishing, gold panning, and River valley. Brooks Range and North canoeing on these lands. Woolly Lousewort Slope to Canada. 21 TRAVELING THROUGH THE HEART OF ALASKA’S PREHISTORY

By Crystal Glassburn more easily. Then they cached the meat for the long, cold winter ahead. In spring, their food stores depleted, You might not imagine yourself as a time traveler they traveled by dogsled and umiaq (skin boat) north when you start up the Dalton Highway, but the journey to the coast. There, they traded with other Iupiaq winds through 10,000 years of human history, uncov- groups and harvested seals, , and whales, before ered over the past 50 years by archaeologists working trekking back to the mountains to prepare for winter along today’s highway corridor. Although signs of once again. this history may be subtle, and spread across a vast landscape, they reveal the technologies and cultures of As you speed up the Dalton Highway in your heated, people supremely adapted to a land ruled by snow and technologically advanced vehicle, take a mental jour- ice for seven to nine months each year. ney back in time. Imagine traveling 175 miles/282 km from Atigun Pass to Prudhoe Bay and back on foot, Athabascan and Iupiaq people have thrived here for building shelters, making clothes, and hunting for your millennia, their survival dependent not only on keen food along the way. What would you need to succeed? observations of weather, seasonal changes, and the 10,000 years of experience might help. migrations of salmon, caribou, and birds, but on main- taining strong communities and instructing the next Crystal is an Archaeologist at the Bureau of Land generations. They have quickly adopted new technol- Management in Fairbanks. She was born in Alaska ogy – whether bows and arrows or rifles, riverboats, and has always admired the resourcefulness and te- and snowmachines – while preserving traditional nacity of Native people, who fourish in the danger- knowledge and culture. ous and beautiful landscapes of the north.To learn more about Alaskan Native culture, Crystal recom- Interior Alaska’s rolling hills, meandering rivers, mends the following books: and deep forests have long been home to Athabascan people. Archaeologist have found their short-term • Make Prayers to the Raven by Richard Nelson campsites and hunting lookouts in upland areas we • Nunamiut: Among Alaska’ Inland Eskimo by Helge now call Fort Hamlin Hills, Finger Mountain, and Ingstad Grayling Lake. They left stone tools such as scrapers and bifaces, used for processing hides and hunting. • In a Hungry Country: Essays by Simon Paneak by John Athabascans also used the Yukon, Kanuti, and Koyu- Campbell kuk River corridors for travel. Their winter villages along forested rivers allowed easy access to firewood Appreciate, but don’t disturb! and wildlife such as lynx, wolverine, wolf, and marten, If you find artifacts such as stone tools, tent whose thick furs were sewn into warm clothing. rings, bones, cabins, historic cans, or other Inland Iupiaq people known as the Nunamiut tradi- items, please leave the objects and sites as tionally lived throughout the western Brooks Range you found them for the next visitor to enjoy. and North Slope. Nomads and skilled hunters, they It is against Federal Law to collect or disturb spent the fall and winter seasons in the northern archaeological items on public lands. foothills along large river valleys such as the Atigun, Sagavanirktok, and Anaktuvuk. Some of their stone tent rings and still lie among the tundra grasses and wildflowers.

Every August, hundreds of thousands of caribou re- turned to the Brooks Range from their calving grounds on the Arctic coast – a seasonal migration that contin- A biface (stone tool that is worked on both sides) lays on the ground at a site in the Brooks Range where it was ues today. The Nunamiut built drive lines to direct the dropped hundreds or even thousands of years ago. caribou into corrals, where they could be harvested 22 Stay Connected As the official nonprofit education partner of Planning Your Trip the Dalton Highway region, Alaska Geographic connects people with Alaska’s magnificent wildlands Visit the Alaska Geographic bookstore in Coldfoot through youth leadership programs, experiential located at the Arctic Interagency Visitor Center to fnd education, volunteer stewardship programs, maps, these useful guides. In addition to books, visitors will award-winning books, and through direct financial also fnd maps, journals, posters, feld bags, and more. aid to Alaska’s parks, forests, and refuges. Alaska Geographic operates bookstores across Arctic Visions & Voices the state, including two locations along the Dalton A Journey into Northern : The Visitor Contact Station at the Yukon Alaska’s Dalton Highway provides access to River Crossing and the Arctic Interagency Visitor National Parks, National Wildlife Refuges, Center in Coldfoot. A portion of every purchase and BLM public lands, with their bounty of recreational, subsistence, and mineral made at these Alaska Geographic stores directly resources. Meet the people who visit, live, supports the Dalton Highway Corridor by funding and work along America’s farthest-north educational and interpretive programs and projects. road and experience the visions and voices Since 1959, Alaska Geographic has donated more of this vast, wild, and magnifcent land. than $20 million to Alaska’s public lands. Item #31024 $6.95 Please consider supporting Alaska’s lands by becoming a member of Alaska Geographic. To America’s Wildest Refuge DVD learn more about our work and the benefits of Discovering the Arctic National membership, or to browse our selection of Alaska Wildlife Refuge books, maps, and films, visit one of our stores or A documentary produced in partnership point your web browser to akgeo.org with Fish & Wildlife Service to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. From forested lowlands to towering mountains, this flm helps you envision earth prior to modern civilization. The Arctic Refuge protects an entire ecosystem unfettered by the infuence of humans. Item #31001 $12.95

akgeo.org Gates of the Arctic DVD Alaska’s Brooks Range Guiding us through one of Alaska’s wildest places, anthropologist Richard Nelson reveals the tenuous, yet rich, nature of life above the Arctic Circle. From unique wildlife to conservationists Bob Marshall and Mardy Murie, this flm is ultimately about the people who call wilderness home. Item #12415 $9.95

Pins, patches, hats, and other products featuring this unique Arctic Circle design are available exclusively from Alaska Geographic.

23 (L) and Sukakpak Mountain (R).

Land Managing Tours and Commercial Arctic Ocean Tours Agencies Services Only one tour operator is Bureau of Land Management Fairbanks Convention authorized to provide access to Central Yukon Field Ofce and Visitors Bureau the Arctic Ocean from Deadhorse. 800-437-7021 or 907-474-2200 907-456-5774 or 800-327-5774 Hours typically begin late May www.blm.gov/alaska www.explorefairbanks.com and are scheduled through early September. Reservations must be Arctic National Wildlife Refuge Hunting and Fishing made at least 24 hours in advance. 800-362-4546 or 907-456-0250 Full names and driver’s license Alaska Department arctic.fws.gov state and number (passport of Fish & Game for international visitors) are Kanuti National Wildlife Refuge www.adfg.alaska.gov required for each traveler. For 907-456-0329 Hunting & Wildlife 907-459-7206 information and reservations go kanuti.fws.gov Fishing 907-459-7207 to www.deadhorsecamp.com/ Towing arctic-ocean-shuttle/ or call Yukon Flats National 907-474-3565 in Fairbanks. Wildlife Refuge Deadhorse: 907-659-3308 800-531-0676 or 907-456-0440 yukonfats.fws.gov Emergency Numbers

Gates of the Arctic Medical emergency To report wildfires: National Park & Preserve No cell phone service except in www.nps.gov/gaar Alaska Fire Service Fairbanks and Deadhorse. From 800-237-3633 Fairbanks Headquarters land lines at Yukon Crossing, 907-457-5752 Coldfoot or Deadhorse call the To report hunting or Alaska State Troopers, or use CB fishing violations: Bettles Ranger Station Channel 19 to relay messages for 907-692-5494 assistance to the troopers. Fish and Wildlife Protection Alaska Department Alaska State Troopers Coldfoot: 907-678-5211 of Natural Resources Rural Alaska 800-811-0911 Fairbanks: 907-451-5350 Fairbanks 907-451-5100 907-451-2705 Alaska Fish and Wildlife dnr.alaska.gov/commis/pic Safeguard 800-478-3377 24 2018-19 Edition