THE

A guide to walking ’s longest and best known sign posted walking trail. Don’t just visit a place...experience it! hikebiketravel.com The Kerry Way

he Kerry Way is Ireland’s longest and best known sign T posted walking trail with a total length of 203 kilometres (122 miles). It mirrors the which is the driving version but rarely does the Way reach the ocean. It is primarily an inland route starting in the town of in southwest Ireland, and encompasses a variety of terrain. Most people hike it in a counter clockwise direction and allow 8-10 days. Generally towns are nicely spaced and offer a variety of accommodation and restaurant choices though the selection is limited on the fi rst few days out. You will enjoy diverse scenery ranging from dramatic peaks including the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, RECOMMENDED ITINERARY OVERVIEW isolated valleys, beautiful lakes, wild moorlands and some spectacular Presented below is a quick layout of the itinerary Day 5: Option: Organize a very worthwhile followed in later sections with the rich details of day trip to the Skellig Islands and spend coastal vistas. The trail is for the most the trip. another night in Cahirciveen or bypass the hike part well signposted and efforts are to Waterville and get dropped off there at the in place to fi x areas of ambiguity. If Day 0: Arrive in Killarney and spend the day end of the day. time permits, a day off in Cahirciveen at leisure, visit Ross Castle or wander the town Cahirciveen to Waterville – 18-24 kilometres. to visit the Skellig Islands could and enjoy one of the 40 plus pubs. Either retrace 6 kilometres of yesterdays’ hike become the highlight of your trip. or taxi to Coars School and begin there. Two The weather is changeable so though Day 1: Killarney to Black Valley - 22 kilometres. ridge walks offer great views. This is one of the most scenic days. This section the probability of rain is high it rarely sees more pedestrian traffi c because of day Day 6: Waterville to – 13 lasts for long. The popularity of this hikers. Visit the well placed Lord Brandon’s tea kilometres. Enjoy an easy day of hiking with hike allows for a certain camaraderie room near the end of the day. time for Beach. On a clear day views and social atmosphere at cafes and are outstanding. pubs along the route. This is a trail Day 2: Black Valley to Glencar - 20 kilometres. well worth hiking and the Irish with Ascend two mountains and enjoy the views of Day 7: Caherdaniel to – 18 kilometres. Count on a day that varies from tiresome boggy their unique brand of hospitality desolate valleys. This is another very scenic day with a perfectly placed lunchtime stop at The sections to one with attractive sea and mountain will ensure that it is a memorable Cookie Monster Cafe. views. experience. Day 3: Glencar to – 18 kilometres Day 8: Sneem to – 30 kilometres. A long day that could saddle you with route It is a surprise to many as to just how .Views later in the day over to the fi nding issues in poor visibility. There are diffi cult the trail can be. The shortest Peninsula are great. Avoid the highway walking several kilometres of very pleasant hiking close day is 13 kilometres (8 miles) and by choosing the Windy Gap over the Scenic to the ocean and lovely views of the Beara there are a couple of days in the 28- Route at a well signed junction a kilometre Peninsula. Kenmare is a lively town in a pretty 30 kilometre (16.5 -18 miles) range. above the decrepit Bunglasha School. setting. Add a backpack, sore feet, sore Day 4: Glenbeigh to Cahirciveen – 28 shoulders, occasional route fi nding Day 9: Kenmare to Killarney – 24 kilometres. kilometres. The fi rst half of the day involves a The last day of hiking takes you up and along issues and changeable weather to lovely high traverse with views over the Ring quiet roads to the Windy Gap with views of the mix and you may fi nd it is more of Kerry Road to the Dingle Peninsula but get Killarney Park and Purple Mountain. Retrace than you bargained for. ready for muddy paths and confusing signage your route from day one once you have later in the day. descended from Windy Gap.

2 hikebiketravel.com General Info WHEN SHOULD YOU GO? PACKING LIST The Kerry Way can be hiked on almost a year Ireland is notorious for throwing four seasons at round basis though it is not recommended in you in one day. At any time of the year be prepared the height of winter. It would be foolhardy for heavy rain and fi erce winds. If you plan the to start out with short days of only 7-8 hours walk with the attitude that the weather will be of light and long hikes with no room for any poor then any lovely day is a real bonus. Chances error. Also in winter the bus doesn’t run are you will have very moderate temperatures which make for comfortable walking and although between towns and many B&B’s are closed it may rain hard it is unlikely to do that for the for the season. The fabulous side trip to the entire week. If you organize a service to move Skellig Islands is not available either. your luggage from place to place (more on page Spring and fall are wonderful times to hike 5) ensure that you have the bare essentials in a as there are fewer people, more last minute day pack. accommodation choices and far fewer, if • Large back with enough room to hold what is any, of the very pesky and annoying midges listed below plus a rain cover which are found in great abundance in the • Food for 6-8 hours of sustained hiking,(bars, summer. Buses are running between towns salty foods like pretzels, jerky, fruit, and the weather can be just as good as any sandwiches) in case you get lost or have an you might get in the summer. STATUE OF CHARLIE CHAPLIN accident IN WATERVILLE • 2- one litre (32 ounce) water bottles ; do GETTING TO AND FROM once an hour and taking about 50 minutes. not drink the water from streams and lakes, KILLARNEY There is an information center in the train especially considering the high density of farm Killarney is easily accessed by train and station and plenty of helpful people to get animals • bus from Dublin multiple times a day. you to the right bus stop (station 748) but First aid kit especially blister aids • In addition the Kerry Airport is only 12 the stop is literally 50 steps outside of the Waterproof bottoms, jacket and hat • kilometres away and it is easy to get a station across one lane and to the left. The Wicking clothes that can be layered ex. taxi to Killarney from there. Arrival in the bus is advertised as the Airport Link Bus. If capilene t-shirt and turtlenecks • centre of Killarney will put you within you are running for a plane then taxis are Windproof fl eece top + comfortable quick dry comfortable walking distance of the available for about 25 Euros. hiking pants and in milder weather consider start of the Kerry Way. The Kerry Way bringing a pair that zip off into shorts is also signposted at one of the major BY BUS: • Fleece hat and gloves intersections on the way to Ross Castle. Visit www.buseireann.ie/ for schedules and • Casual city clothes • BY TRAIN: pricing. The bus is cheaper but it takes Underwear and socks • Visit www.irishrail.ie for schedules. Trains much longer than the train and often you Well broken in leather boots • run almost every two hours throughout need to deal with several bus changes. Scandals or an extra pair of shoes in case your the day both ways between Killarney and Count on a minimum of 7 hours to and boots get wet • Dublin. Most trains will require a change from the Dublin airport versus 3 ½ to 5 Gaiters • in Mallow but that is a matter of moving 5 hours by train. The bus to and from the Camera in a waterproof case • steps across the platform to the next track airport runs only twice a day though there Headlamp with extra batteries • and waits are usually less than 15 minutes. are other bus stations within the city of Map and route description Dublin with connections. Add at least • Whistle and compass Train tickets can be bought from automated another hour to get from the airport to • Personal toiletries - bring your own soap, kiosks in the train station or from a live pick up one of those buses. shampoo, conditioner and cream as these items body but in Killarney that only happens 30 are rarely provided by B&B’s minutes before the train leaves. If you know You can save 10% if you buy your bus • Reading material and journal (optional) ahead of time what train you want then ticket online. If you do that present the • Sunscreen and lip balm buy online as there will be a considerable confi rmation number with picture ID to • Insect repellent cost savings.(We paid 68 Euros at the train the ticket agent when you get to the bus • Plastic bags as a further measure of protection station but saw it online beforehand for station who will issue a proper ticket for the inside your pack almost half of that!) Make sure you save day. Your other option is just to show up at • Credit card and cash (ATM machines aren’t your ticket stub as you will need it to exit the bus station and buy a ticket in person. always available and most B&B’s take only the train platform, at least in Dublin. The Killarney bus station is conveniently cash) located close to the town centre so if you • Trekking poles (optional) Some seats are reserved on the train. There have a few extra hours wander into town • Cell phone will be a person’s name above that seat so and explore. • Small thermos for hot drinks in the off season unless you like moving seats a lot, do not (optional) sit there! Food and drinks are available on DOGS *** most bedrooms in B&B’s are heated by the train between Mallow and Dublin. Dogs are not recommended on the Way and hot water radiators so in any but the summer in fact in many areas they are forbidden. months it is really easy to wash a few pieces If you are planning to go to the Dublin Some of the locals might do sections of of clothing and dry them by morning. Be airport from the train station then there is the walk with a dog but most farmers are warned though that Ireland has the world’s an airport bus for 6 Euros (you don’t need not interested in having additional dogs smallest sinks. exact change) running at a minimum of on their property. hikebiketravel.com 3 General Info

ACCOMODATION BEFORE Ph: +353(0) 64 33743. It is a four star WALKING OPTIONS guesthouse. Contact them for rates. AND AFTER IN KILLARNEY The Kerry Way is typically done over a period White Gates Hotel There is a huge range of accommodation of 8-10 days assuming that you are walking the styles across all price points in the Killarney www.hotel-ireland.com/whitegates-hotel/ entire distance. However, there may be some area. It is helpful if you can stay somewhere Ph: +353 14127611 or 1-800-869- 4330 from sections that have less appeal, that may be too long and diffi cult or you may just not have in the town centre area and south since the the US only. Rates are 80 Euros per person enough time to do the whole affair. Options beginning of the Kerry Way is at the south per night. exist for shortening the walk as listed below. end of town. There are literally dozens of Riverside Hotel hotels and B&B’s within a very small area. www.riversidehotelkillarney.com • Start in Glenbeigh instead of Killarney and do the The accommodation choices listed below are rest of the route as noted from Day 3 and on. in order from the town center going south. Ph: +353(0) 64 39200. Rooms start at 69 Euros per night. Glena House • Start in Killarney and fi nish in Glenbeigh, www.glenakillarney.com The Harp B&B Cahirciveen or Kenmare and take the once www.theharpbnb.com/ daily bus on a Monday to Saturday basis Ph: +353(0) 64 66332705. This is one of the Ph: +353(0) 64 6631272. Rooms are 33-38 back to Killarney. busier B&B’s that I saw. It is well situated and Euros per person sharing. only about a 7 minute walk to Killarney. Rates • Start in Killarney but head clockwise towards Cahernane House Hotel start at 35 Euros per person sharing. Kenmare and fi nish in Glenbeigh. Take the www.cahernane.com/ Earls Court Hotel bus back to Killarney from there. www.killarney-earlscourt.ie Ph: +353 (0) 64 31895. This is a 4 star luxury hotel and has prices starting at 130 • In the summer only, on a Monday to Saturday Ph: +353(0) 64 6634009. Nice location just Euros per room. basis, skip a few towns by hopping on the bus. off the main street so very quiet. Rates start In the summer stops also occur in Waterville, from 50 Euros per person per night. It is The Brehon Caherdaniel and Sneem so for example considered to be a 4 star hotel. www.thebrehon.com/ you could take the bus from Glenbeigh to Lake Lodge Ph: +353(0) 64 6630700. This is the newest Waterville and continue from there. www.lakelodge.ie 4 star hotel with prices starting at 138 Euros There are any number of permutations and Ph: +353 (0) 64 6633333. Rates start at 25 per night per room. combinations to be made. First though decide Euros per person per night. By the way there are 40 pubs within 400 on how many days you have to hike and if it Fuchsia House metres of each other in Killarney so you can is less than the full requirement then decide www.fuchsiahouse.com start planning your victory pub crawl! which sections have the most appeal. 4 hikebiketravel.com DAY 1: KILLARNEY TO BLACK VALLEY BAGGAGE TRANSFER One of the great things about long distance walking and hiking in Ireland is the fact that many B&B’s are set up or at the very least accommodating in transferring your luggage from place to place. However, this also needs to be prearranged before you can count on walking with a light daypack. Before you leave home confi rm with each B&B (preferably in writing) that they provide this service. Some of them will do it themselves and some will subcontract it out to the local taxi company. If there are many of you the cost per bag will be considerably less. Unfortunately single travellers may end up paying close to 30 Euros per day to get their luggage moved. On the longer days this may be a small price to pay. Rates will vary depending on the distance, the number of people and the number of bags needing to be moved. The rate will necessarily change between B&B’s since the distances themselves can markedly differ. Do remember before you happily walk away with only your daypack to include the following: • Wallet and identifi cation • Map and guide • Rain gear – both top and bottom plus a hat • Camera and extra batteries, binoculars • Extra clothing in case the weather changes • Adequate water and food • fl ashlight

MOSS DRAPED FOREST ENROUTE • Sunscreen and bug repellent • Small fi rst aid kit FROM KILLARNEY TO BLACK VALLEY • Cell phone or phone cards in case you run into problems MILEAGE SIDE TRIPS • Proceed along a paved path with nice views 22 kilometres (14 miles) plus 550m total • Ross Castle is just two kilometres from the on your right of Lough Leane. Continue (1800 feet) of vertical including a stiff uphill centre of Killarney, off Kenmare Road. The right into . Once in from . castle is located on the edge of Lough Leane the park there are roads and paths every in Killarney Park. It is open from mid March which way and almost no signs. Initially you can proceed along any of the paths or TIME NEEDED until October between 9:30 am and 5:30 pm roads providing you keep the lake to your 6-7 ½ hours plus lunch and breaks though in summer it is open until 6:30 pm. right. Also follow any signs pointing you in Admission is 6 Euros per adult. Educational the direction of Muckross Abbey, a friary TERRAIN guided tours are available to explain the for Franciscan monks built around 1448. If Paved paths through Killarney National Park architecture and living conditions at the you choose not to visit the Abbey then turn followed by dirt roads through moorland and time it was built in the late 1400’s. It is the right towards . Follow all woodland with some rocky sections. Path to ancestral home of the O’Donoghue clan. the park signs for Muckross House. From Brandon tearoom and paved road into Black • Muckross House is one of Ireland’s leading afar it is a splendid and imposing house. Valley. stately homes situated in Killarney National • Turn right in front of Muckross House house Park. The house allows you to experience the gap and take the path that heads in the direction HIGHLIGHTS of the lake. Look for signs pointing in the Beautiful grounds and views through to Muckross between rich and poor. The working conditions of the servants can be experienced downstairs direction of Torc Waterfall to keep you on House. Wonderful wooded forest sections with the Kerry Way. great mossy clumps. Amazing views on clear while that of the landed gentry upstairs in the days. Even the bog land with the boardwalk extravagantly furnished rooms. Tickets are 10 • At the next intersection head left, away from a sections of railway ties is lovely. Paths along Euros for both the house and farm. stone boathouse which will be down on your right. Take the path through a rhododendron Upper Lake to Lord Brandon’s cottage enjoy ROUTE some stunning views. A fi rst rate day!! lined woodland to a gravel path that crosses The route is generally easy to follow though an expanse of open ground on your left. FOOD & RESTAURANTS there are long stretches with no markers. There will be a sign here pointing you in the It would be wise to look at the route notes direction of the waterfall. Lots to choose from in Killarney and best to several times so you know you are headed in stock up on lunch ahead of time. Muckross • Head through a stone tunnel and follow the the right direction. House has a restaurant and there is a nicely riverside path past a stone building housing placed tea room at Lord Brandon’s cottage The Kerry Way does not have an offi cial the toilets. Climb the steps to the Torc about an hour from the fi nish of the day. start though there are markers for it at one Waterfall viewpoint. Black Valley has a youth hostel with a shop of the main roundabouts in Killarney. Follow • Now you can leave the masses behind as but most of what it sells is junk food. Local Muckross Road (N71) south from the centre there is a steep section of step climbing B&B’s will usually provide an evening meal of Killarney until you reach the Flesk River affording great views the higher you go. and packed lunch. Really there isn’t much in Bridge about a kilometre from the roundabout. Continue on to a T junction and turn left, Black Valley except a few homes. Consider that to be your offi cial start. then right shortly thereafter. hikebiketravel.com 5 DAY 1: KILLARNEY TO BLACK VALLEY

MUCKROSS HOUSE, KILLARNEY NATIONAL PARK • Head across a bridge and turn left at a right beside Derrycunnihy Church. This is ACCOMODATION junction. There is a sign indicating that you an area where a lot of people will park their IN BLACK VALLEY are entering a Wildlife Refuge. There may cars and head for a walk in the woods. Black Valley and Glencar are the two towns even be the occasional way marker in this • Cross the road and head left over Galway’s on the Kerry Way that are short on services vicinity. Bridge. Head right and in just a few metres and accommodation choices. None of the • Continue along the Old Kenmare Road, down some steps and then into the woodland. choices are particularly good in Black Valley ascending as you go through lovely woods • Stay on a rocky track through thick and you will have to either bring your own of oak and holly. The road crosses a crest woodland that can be quite slippery if picnic dinner or rely on your hosts for your and offers fi ne views of Purple Mountain wet. You will cross several small bridges dinner in the B&B’s. Bring food to cook from and the more distant MacGillycuddy’s and railway ties over boggy sections over Killarney if you stay in the hostel as their food Reeks, though you will need a clear day to the next few kilometres. The trail is very choices are miniscule. see them. apparent here. Continue down the rocky Hillcrest Farmhouse B&B • Descend the road past fi elds fi lled with track to a signed intersection and bear left www.hillcrestfarmhouse.com/ small stone cairns into a desolate feeling for Black Valley. Ph: +353 (0) 64 6634702 This B&B is very valley. It is gorgeous country fi lled with • After that the trees thin out and you will close to Killarney Park but you will need tussocky grass and outcroppings that can have excellent lake and mountain views. to add several kilometres to the next day’s make for a perfect lunch spot to take in the You end up on a wide, fl at path all the way mileage. Rates start at 38 Euros per person view. On the left near the bottom of the to a large white house that is now Brandon’s if sharing and dinners are available for 28 road there is a small waterfall which would Tearoom. You can pick up food and drinks Euros. It is probably your best option. also make an ideal lunch spot. The road and sit out at picnic tables. becomes more path like and continues its Shamrock Farmhouse B&B • On the path before the tearoom the houses http://shamrock.kerry-ireland.com/ descent to cross the Crinnagh River by of Black Valley are visible up in the hills small footbridges. and slightly to your left. That is the next Ph: +353(0) 66 064 34714. This is the last • Head up through the fantastic wooded area destination and accommodation is 30-60 B&B you will come to in Black Valley and known as Esknamucky Glen. The path is minutes away depending on where you are you will find it to be a clean but basic lined in places by lime green and yellow staying in the valley. spot. The ensuite bathroom is tiny. The place feels isolated but the lady running it euphorbia. • From the Tearoom continue straight along a is friendly and was accommodating with gravel road. Cross a bridge with an arched • You will reach a boggy section which has regards to meals. Rates are 28.50 Euros gateway and head left on a decent sized been fi tted with double railway ties covered in per person sharing. chicken wire to prevent slippage. Enjoy many road along the Gearhameen River. In no hundreds of metres walking up and then time there will be a sign indicating that you An Oige Hostel down through a boggy section into woodland have left Killarney National Park. Continue no website but email at [email protected] that feels like a movie set. Rocks, old stone on this tarmac road until you reach your Ph: +353 (0) 64 34712. It is open from walls and trees are thickly covered in moss. accommodation. Hillcrest Farmhouse B&B March until October. Rates are 17 Euros • Cross a small footbridge and descend to a is less than 30 minutes from the Tearoom per person. The store on the premises sells well marked intersection. This is the point of or continue for at least another kilometre primarily junk food. return from Kenmare on the last day of the for the hostel and another 1½ kilometres to hike. Head right on a wide asphalt road for reach Shamrock House B&B. These are your ATM MACHINES about a kilometre until you reach the N71 only choices in Black Valley!! There are no ATM’s in Black Valley. 6 hikebiketravel.com DAY 2: BLACK VALLEY TO GLENCAR MILEAGE 20 kilometres (12 miles) more or less depending on where you stay in Black Valley plus 716m accumulated vertical gain (2280 feet) including two major climbs and descents. TIME NEEDED 5 to 7 hours plus breaks and lunch TERRAIN Tarmac roads, gravel roads, grassy paths, lots of stone paths and boggy areas, quiet minor roads HIGHLIGHTS Gorgeous mountain landscapes with beautiful valley views. Very pretty near the lakes and along the river. Desolate feeling valleys. WARNINGS Be cautious on both descents especially if it is raining as there is much to cause you to slip. Signage is poor after the fi rst major descent as you try to weave through farmer’s fi elds. LOTS OF COWS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE FOOD & RESTAURANTS SECOND DESCENT ENROUTE TO GLENCAR There is one very well placed café that is • Cross a stile onto a grassy lane and then only one marker so it is easy to feel that convenient for a lunch stop. The Cookie zigzag up to the right. Pass through the you are off course through here. Monster Café has outstanding food and drinks front yard of a newer looking house. Stay • At the bottom you have to cross a fence, and extremely hospitable hosts. You will fi nd on a dirt road up the Cummeenduff Glen it located 2 kilometres as the crow fl ies from perhaps by getting onto higher ground and until you reach the gate of a large farm carefully stepping over it. Head parallel the top of the fi rst saddle. You can’t miss it operation. as it is just before you start your ascent of to a stone wall and cross another fence. the second pass. Your other choice is to get • Skirt the farm (guarded by dogs) by turning Continue down the road to a farmhouse a packed lunch from wherever you stayed right and heading uphill over some rocks. crossing a few small streams along the way. in Black Valley or bring enough lunch food It may be wet. Then veer left along another Go through the gate before the farmhouse from Killarney to see you through. I heartily wet path that parallels a wall on your left. - even if dogs come out barking at you recommend the café option especially as they Continue past the house for roughly 125 and immediately head left around a farm have a lovely peat fi re burning too. metres. Bear left through a gate and follow building. Follow the track around and cross an old track as it climbs parallel to the a bigger stream on boulders. Continue on Glencar is also short on services. Purchase fence. There is intermittent marking along going through two gates until you get to the dinner from your B&B, plan on a pub meal this section so it sounds more diffi cult than well maintained dirt road that you could see at the Climber’s Hostel or have dinner at the it actually is. from above earlier on. Glencar House Hotel. • The path leads to a new log bridge and then • Head left on this minor road for almost 1.5 well placed markers help you cross through kilometres passing a few buildings along ROUTE a very boggy area with boulders. You will the way. Just as you are about to head right The route is generally easy to follow though be able to pick out the path ascending to to make your next large ascent you will fi nd there are almost no markers whatsoever to the fi rst saddle of the day. It is roughly a the well positioned Cookie Monster Café help you navigate through a farmer’s property half hour climb. and B&B, catering to the needs of walkers. after your fi rst major descent. This is a great place to warm up and get • Leave the broad saddle behind by climbing • Begin on the road heading off to your left something to eat. It is also well signed. a stile and then following a path that as you pass through Black Valley. Stay left narrows to form a spur as you continue. • Directly across from the café driveway cross at the one intersection in Black Valley and There are wonderful vistas to enjoy from the stile to follow a path up and diagonally continue past the Shamrock B&B. It may this vantage point including the triangular across a grassy fi eld where you will need be as many as 3 kilometres before you turn peak of Mullaghanattin (773m). to climb another stile. Look for the way off the tarmac depending on where you markers now. The path heading to the next stayed. It is a brisk 25 minute walk from the • The descent is steep and quite slippery in saddle is quite wet and boggy. Shamrock B&B to the fi rst turnoff. Pass a places when wet. Look for yellow arrows number of houses scattered along the road on rocks interspersed with the regular way • Your job now is to switchback your way up and eventually turn left onto a track near a markers. It is often a good idea ahead of time this quite steep mountainside on what will farm. The turn is well signed. to pick out the next marker before going look like an old road the higher you climb. forward so you can stay on course. It is very It is well marked and the switchbacks make • Pass through a total of 5 gates after leaving the wet towards the bottom of the mountain. the climb quite manageable. tarmac until you reach an open hillside. A small lake and waterfall are visible in the distance. You • Near the bottom look out ahead to the right • At the top views are great in all directions and if will pass through a small tract of conifers on the and you will see a well maintained dirt road. the sun is shining it would make a scenic picnic way to the open hillside. There are markers That is your next destination but it requires spot. Otherwise continue on steeply down after pointing the way along the hillside. getting through some farm property with crossing a stile near the top. This descent is not hikebiketravel.com 7 DAY 2: BLACK VALLEY TO GLENCAR as steep as the fi rst one of the day. where to head next depending on your Ph: +353 (0)66 9760105. Staying at this B&B • Pick you way down through rocks and accommodation choice for the night. Lough will add 4 kilometres onto the mileage for the some very boggy sections aiming for the Acoose B&B is just a few yards away on third day. The rooms are pleasant and there is Gearhanagour Stream below. your right but the town of Glencar and the an additional sitting room though one of the hostel are approximately 4 more kilometres rooms has a bathroom with a vey small sink. • Turn left by the stream and work your way down the road if you head left. Rates are 32.50 Euros per person. through the muddy, boggy path until it Climbers Inn (hostel) widens to become a vehicle track. Initially ACCOMODATION www.climbersinn.com you follow the stream but eventually

start a gradual climb, staying high at one IN GLENCAR AREA Ph: +353 (0) 66 9760101 Rooms are basic Stepping Stone B&B intersection near some large trees. but there are usually lots of hikers and bikers www.steppingstonebandb.com around plus a pub and post offi ce on site. • Continue through a fence at a farm, Ph: +353 (0)66 9760215 The B&B is located Rates are about 18 Euros per person per night. passing through their yard to a minor halfway between Black Valley and Glencar Dinners and packed lunches are available. road. Pass another house on your right within a few kilometres after the fi rst big and then bear right and across a bridge Glencar House Hotel climb out of Black Valley. It is a fantastic spot www.glencarhouse.com/en/index.php over the stream. and at the very least plan on having lunch • About 150 metres past the bridge go along there. The hosts are most welcoming!!! You Ph: +353 (0) 66 9760102. Rates are 35 Euros a minor road. could reach this spot in a very long day from per person sharing. If I were doing it again Killarney but add 3 hours to the time needed this is where I would head! • The road climbs initially and then on your fi rst day. descends over the course of 2 kilometres BANKS to the shores of Lough Acoose. At a T Lough Acoose B&B There are no banks or ATM machines in intersection you will need to decide no website but email [email protected] Glencar. DAY 3: GLENCAR TO GLENBEIGH MILEAGE trees for 200 metres. Cross another stile and 18 kilometres (11 miles) plus add about 4 follow an obvious path through conifers for kilometres if you stayed at the Lough Acoose 150 metres. B&B. Total elevation for the day is in the • Follow the path as it winds through some range of 1400 feet (427 m) and the grade is more lovely treed sections; after about 150 never onerous. metres cross a footbridge. Initially the track is narrow but widens over a short distance TIME NEEDED through rather uninteresting planted forest. 5-7 hours plus breaks and a lunch stop. Another 15 minutes of walking will bring You can save about an hour by taking the you into sight of Drombrane Lough, up Windy Gap instead of the Scenic Route at an on your right. Gently climb through this intersection one kilometre up from Bunglasha planted forest and turn right onto a minor School. I did the scenic route but after road. speaking with others I would recommend the Windy Gap route so you can avoid the busy • After 300 metres turn left and head uphill road at the end. on a gravely track. The track narrows and climbs through fi elds and woods with a noticeable lack of sheep. Rocky steps lead TERRAIN you up to a viewpoint of Lough Caragh. Gravel and grassy roads, minor roads, forest paths with lots of stepping stones, dirt road • Continue up and down on the path, often on and the main road into Glenbeigh if you took stone stairs and often through short sections the scenic route. It can be very wet in places. of boggy areas. When you fi nish the descent SKELLIG ISLAND bear right onto a dirt road. Follow this dirt HIGHLIGHTS road for about 300 metres until it reaches along the route but some confusion before the tarmac. Walking along the River Caragh is pleasant. crossing the Meelagh River; otherwise it is Later in the day there are nice views of Lough straight forward day. • Signage is confusing at this road intersection Caragh, MacGillycuddy’s Reeks and the with markers pointing in both directions. Dingle Peninsula. • From the Climber’s Inn, cross the street, This is one spot where you could fi nd yourself turn left and follow a gravel road as it winds going in circles. At the pavement HEAD through pastures for about a kilometre. It LEFT and within 50 metres on your right FOOD AND RESTAURANTS will be wet in places. When you reach the After the Climber’s Hostel in Glencar there just off the road is a plaque commemorating junction with the tarmac bear right. is nothing available until Glenbeigh where American members of the Ancient Order of you will fi nd a café, pubs, restaurants and a • Continue over the River Caragh Bridge and Hibernians. grocery store. look for a stile on your right. After crossing • Stay on the paved road as it winds through the stile, head over rocks keeping to the left light woods, crosses the Meelagh River and ROUTE by a barbed wire fence. In boggy sections shortly thereafter another river. It starts The route assumes a start at the Climbers there are logs to walk over. Continue to the to gain height after the second bridge and Inn in Glencar but if you stayed near Lough grassy section right beside the river. Cross roughly a kilometre and a half from the fi rst Acoose then there are 4 additional kilometres 2 stiles in the grassy area and then another bridge the road reaches a junction at the of road walking fi rst. There are markings stile onto a footbridge and go left through decrepit Bunglasha School. 8 hikebiketravel.com DAY 3: GLENCAR TO GLENBEIGH • Turn left and the views start getting interesting. the way. As you round the corner the dirt road shared room. It is only a few minutes walk to Head straight up the road for a kilometre eventually gives way to a narrow tarmac road restaurants and grocery stores. through some more planted forest and bear and passes by many farms. Take it all the way Towers Hotel right. There is a well placed bench for a picnic down to the junction with N70. www.towershotel.com/ lunch. It will also allow you the time to decide • Head left on the N70 and walk about 2 Ph: +353 (0) 66 9768212. This is a three star what route you wish to do next. If you head kilometres into Glenbeigh. Be ready to left towards Windy Gap then the views might hotel found on the main street. Rates are climb off the road if a driver isn’t paying about 49 Euros per room. There is a decent not be quite as good but you will save an hour attention!! The Windy Gap route will prevent of hiking and even better, save yourself from pub as part of the hotel too. the unpleasantness of the highway walking. walking on the busy N70 road. There are numerous B&B’s available and a Kerry Ocean Lodge • The Windy Gap route is well marked taking few small hotels in Glenbeigh. www.kerryoceanlodge.com/ you up and down gradually and depositing Ph: +353 (0) 66 9769666. Rates start at 35 you on a quieter road that leads into the ACCOMODATION Euros per person sharing. It is located outside town of Glenbeigh. Emir View B&B of town but the walking distance into town for no website but email at • The so called scenic route heads right and meals is not prohibitive. It is located beside 6 [email protected]. takes you on a gradual climb on an old dirt kilometres of beach. road with great views of Lough Caragh. Ph: +353 (0) 66 9768007. Rooms are clean, The road eventually veers left after many straight forward and the bathrooms are big. ATM MACHINE kilometres where Dingle Bay and more hills As well the owners are very friendly. Rates There is an ATM in the Centra grocery store come into view. There are a few markers along are 30-35 Euros per person based on a on the main street. DAY 4: GLENBEIGH TO CAHIRCIVEEN MILEAGE • Cross one more stile before passing by a 28 kilometres (17 miles) or so plus 518 m total number of ruined stone cottages. Descend vertical (1700 feet) gradually to a minor road. This entire section for the last several kilometres can be quite TIME NEEDED wet and boggy!! Head left along a minor 7-8.5 hours depending on pace and route asphalt road after climbing two more stiles. fi nding plus lunch and breaks • Turn right onto a marked track to follow a dreadful section of muddy, boggy moorland TERRAIN with some obvious tractor work. Continue Minor roads, forest track, lots of wet and OVERLOOKING THE ROAD TO straight until you reach a minor road. boggy fi eld paths, gravel and dirt roads; a CAHIRCIVEEN particularly wet and muddy day • Bear left on the road and continue almost in • Bear right onto a quiet minor road where a straight line for over three kilometres. It is HIGHLIGHTS the path ends. This section is all well peaceful, quiet walking. marked. The road climbs slowly for almost Initially a very peaceful forest walk followed by • Turn left off the road onto a path by a 2 kilometres and affords nice views of a beautiful high traverse paralleling the Kerry stone wall and just beside a house. It is the upper Beithe valley. Continue on the Way road below with spectacular views to the well marked. Go through a gate, cross a road through one crossroad and then one ocean and the Dingle Peninsula on the far side. wet fi eld; descend steeply to another gate kilometre later turn left at another crossroad. leading across a fi eld to a new footbridge Cross over the N70 highway and turn right. FOOD AND RESTAURANTS over the Ferta River. Stock up in Glenbeigh as there is nothing until • Stay on this small road for 700 metres and • Head on a diagonal angle across the next you reach Cahirciveen where there is a very then head left up a gravel track. Pass through wide choice of stores, restaurants and pubs. a total of 9 gates and continue on the track grassy fi eld and then head left to walk parallel which is a mixture of grass, mud and rock. with the river. Cross a stile and about 50 ROUTE It is wet in places. This path follows the metres later cross the bridge over the river. The route is very well marked until you reach old road and views continue to improve the • Bear right at a minor road and follow it until the point where it splits to Waterville. Markers higher you climb. are still visible but they aren’t always reliable. you are across from a large farm building There is one section noted below where you • Eventually you are way above the Ring of which can’t be missed. Turn left onto the may have to look for evidence of a track until Kerry Road with some of the best views on gravel road and go straight to the top where you see the next way marker. the Way so far. As you continue walking you turn right. • Go through the town of Glenbeigh continuing and round a bend look for two tunnels of • After just a few steps cross a stile, head left several blocks past the post offi ce and turn the old railway down on the right. Continue up a fi eld edge to the next stile on the right. right at a marked junction along a minor climbing at a pleasant grade until you reach Cross a very small fi eld, hop over yet another road. Cross the River Behy. Turn right at a the saddle overlooking the Ferta valley. stile and head left up a gravel road until you come to a house with a sign Art Studio. well marked intersection and continue until • Head gradually downhill through open country. you reach the picnic area, half a kilometre The trail is obvious. Cross a stream, head • Head right and soon the fun begins. You later. through a gate and follow a wet path through a will quickly reach an intersection where the • Cross over to the picnic area and an obvious managed forest for about 1.5 kilometres. markers point to the Kerry Way over the stile and to Cahirciveen if you go right. path is up on the right. It is a nice trail that • The track leaves the forest, crosses a stile climbs through conifers. Turn left at the junction and footbridge and then heads across • Go right and continue along the road to a and continue climbing. The path levels and moorland punctuated with peat workings. marker. Head over a stile, cross a fi eld and then follows an old railway line past a clear-cut Cross a total of 5 stiles on your trip through head left through a gate and over a small for a total of approximately 1.6 kilometres from the moorland. footbridge. the start of the initial ascent. hikebiketravel.com 9 DAY 4: GLENBEIGH TO CAHIRCIVEEN • Cross another fi eld to a stile but stay high away from restaurants. and head over a footbridge. The owner can also help you organize a trip to the • Cross 2 more fi elds with stile footbridge Skellig Islands. Rates are combinations over a short distance. This is 32-35 Euros per person all well marked!! sharing. • Head through a gate, over 2 footbridges and Iveragh Heights B&B across a fi eld. Cross through more small

fi elds to end at a minor road. Turn left and www.iveraghheights.com/ cross a bigger road. Ph: +353 (0) 66 9472545. This is the second B&B • Immediately turn right and onto yet another you will pass as you wet farm track. Head along it for about 300 head into town. Rates metres. Cross a stile and continue across are 27 Euros per person. fi elds with grassy and wet sections. A line of mountains will be on your left. O’Sheas B&B • Cross a stile to cross another fi eld, continuing www.osheasbnb.com past a stone cottage on your left. Bear right and Ph: +353(0) 66 9472402. follow the occasional markers plus well trodden This B&B is conveniently grass across wet ground. Keep the small river located close to shops, on your left. Follow along the river (looking pubs and restaurants in carefully for way markers) to a gravel road and town. Rates are 35 Euros bear left. Climb a stile to reach a tarmac road. per person sharing. This section is poorly marked and the trail is SKELLIG ISLANDS often obscure. Take your time through here. Sive Hostel www.sivehostel.ie/ A visit to requires a head for • Go left (even though it doesn’t feel like you Ph: +353 (0) 66 9472717. Rates start at 15 heights and the ability to climb 600 stairs. The should) for about 300 metres, passing a few Euros depending on the style of room. It is beehive huts that are part of the monastery are houses. At a marker turn right and go over centrally located on the main street. built at the top of the stairs. The island consists a stile to a farm track. The Ring of Kerry Hotel of nothing but cliffs. There are no handrails so • Cross the river on a footbridge and head www.ringofkerryhotel.ie/ people with a fear of heights can be seen coming left across fi elds. Follow a very muddy road down the stairs on their rear ends. There are a to another stile. A miniature white building Ph: +353 (0)66 9472543. Rates are 50 Euros few small fl at sections so one can bring a lunch will be almost directly in front of you. Turn per person sharing. and enjoy the view. Puffi ns nest on the steep right onto a gravel road and the worst is hillside so you can also enjoy watching their now behind you. FOOD AND RESTAURANTS comings and goings. Cahirciveen has a wide choice of shops, cafes, • Continue on the gravel road past the restaurants and pubs with the bulk of them Boat trips to the islands can be reserved in coniferous forest on your right. Stay left at found along the main street. QC’s Restaurant is advance and it is likely your B&B host will be the fi rst junction past the conifers. Stay on this road for about two kilometres. a particularly nice choice for an evening meal. able to provide that service. The very pretty town of about 20 minutes away from • At the next intersection the marker says to ATM MACHINE Cahirciveen has the most departures though bear left which doesn’t feel right and you will There are many full service banks. ATM’s unfortunately you won’t know until the morning sense that is incorrect. It is incorrect. It will can also be found in the grocery stores on the of the day that you plan to go if the boat will run. take you on a large loop to end in Cahirciveen main street. Boats are only able to run 100 days of the year – but after you have hiked about another 7 kilometres. So bear RIGHT here. Keep right because of weather and wave conditions. They SKELLIG ISLANDS SIDE TRIPS almost never operate in the winter but summer at the fi rst intersection and continue on it The Skellig Islands are 2 steep and rocky until you see the old stone bridge over the is no guarantee as even in August of 2008 they islands lying about 16 kilometres off the coast were only able to run half the time. Carhan River. Pass by the bridge on your of the and are accessed by right and head through the Daniel O’Connell boat from either Portmagee or Caherdaniel. There are several companies running trips Memorial Park to the main road. The smaller of the islands is home to 28,000 and prices are in the order of 40 Euros per • Cross the road and head left by the stylized breeding pairs of gannets. These birds have person. sculpture commemorating the journey of a wingspan of six feet so the sheer mass of Michael O’Sullivan, Waterville Boats email: St. Brendan, thought to be the fi rst group to birds is mind boggling. They have the good [email protected] Ph: +353 (0) 66 9474800/ reach America almost 1500 years ago. sense to leave for Africa sometime in October Michael +353(0) 87 2202355 Pat +353(0) • Continue into Cahirciveen mostly along and return again in the spring. 87 4178268. roadside paths. B&B’s start appearing 300 The larger island goes by the name of Skellig www.skelligstrips.com Joe Roddy and Sons metres past the sculpture. Michael. It was originally settled in 490AD by +353(0)87 1209924. Christian monks. The monks endured at least four Viking raids but remained on the island for www.skelligsrock.com ACCOMODATION about 500 years. The island was abandoned in Seanie Ph: +353(0)66 9476214 Southern Sun B&B the twelfth century when the monks headed to Journey times depend on the boat size but no website but email at [email protected] the Augustinian monastery on the mainland. are typically 45 minutes each way. The boats Ph: +353 (0) 66 9473734. This is the fi rst B&B Two lighthouses were established beginning circle Island and will then drop you will see as you enter town. It is run by a in 1820 but apart from the lighthouse keepers you off on Skellig Michael. You are given lovely and very helpful woman. The rooms are there has been little human traffi c so the site about 2 hours to walk up and explore which large and much better appointed than many you is in excellent shape. The island became a is adequate time. Be warned that there are no will have seen. The B&B is only a 10 minute walk UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. bathroom facilities on the island.

10 hikebiketravel.com DAY 5: CAHIRCIVEEN TO WATERVILLE MILEAGE It depends on where you start and whether you have to retrace your steps. One thought would be to take a taxi to Coars School and continue the 18 kilometres from there. Otherwise count on backtracking about 6 kilometres to meet up with the split to Waterville you passed yesterday. TIME NEEDED 8-10 hours with only brief stops depending on where you start TERRAIN Lots of farm and moorland paths, heading through higher grasses; less boggy than yesterday. There are some minor quiet roads.

HIGHLIGHTS PORT MAGEE: GATEWAY TO THE SKELLIG ISLANDS A remote day with two ridge walks providing superb views. puts you on the road at Coars School. on the right and follow the markers down • Across the road a steep climb begins that takes through rough fi elds to a stile by a gate. FOOD AND RESTAURANTS you to the shoulder of Coomdeeween Mountain. • Cross the next fi eld to a stone wall. Continue It is a good idea again to stock up with lunch You will be undulating over three tops and your descent to another stile on farm tracks, supplies in Cahirciveen. There will be ice cream many stiles. There are lots of markers. past two houses and then through two gates options only at the Mastergeehy post offi ce and to reach a road. full restaurant options in Waterville. • Follow the ridge onto Keelnagore and Knockavahaun (371m) which is the highest • Turn right and walk into Waterville. There will ROUTE point on the Kerry Way coastal route. Views up be a Charlie Chaplin statue by the shore. Consider based on your day yesterday whether or here on a clear day can encompass the Blasket not you wish to retrace your steps. If you decide Islands off of the Dingle Peninsula, Portmagee ACCOMODATION that you would prefer to start at Coars School then Channel and even the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks. Butler Arms Hotel www.butlerarms.com it would be wise to organize a taxi the night before. • Just as you pass the Knockavahaun summit It is a long day even from the school so if you are make a sharp left turn and follow the Ph: +353 (0) 66 9474144. Rooms start at 79 looking for a lower mileage day start there. You shoulder of the mountain down. Pass a Euros per night. It is a conveniently located could also be dropped near Teeraha; the junction forest on your right to reach Canuig (261 hotel. you passed yesterday that goes to Waterville. m), the last bump on the ridge. Descend on Clifford’s B&B To retrace your route from yesterday to a grass path zigzagging your way down to a www.cliffordbandb.com/ Teeraha follow the directions below: farm gate and a minor road. Ph: +353 (0) 66 9474283. Rooms start at 30 • Take the N70 into O’Connell Park. Once • Turn right and after about 700 metres left. Euros per person sharing. on the small road follow the signs for the The road crosses the River Inny on an old Klondyke B&B recycling centre and soon you will see Kerry stone bridge. www.klondyke-house.com/ Way markers. Turn left at the junction at • Turn right at a T junction and about 1 Chiclog, 220 m past the bridge and continue Ph: +353 (0) 66 9474119. Rooms start at 30 kilometre down is the Mastergeehy Post straight along the surfaced road. Euros per person sharing. It is located only a Offi ce where you can fi ll up on ice cream. few minutes from town. • The surfaced road leads you onto a graveled • From the Mastergeehy Post Offi ce continue bog road and turf cutting is in evidence. Old Cable House B&B up a lane, passing a church in a state of www.oldcablehouse.com/ • When you come to the miniature model disrepair on your right to end up on a minor house on your right, turn left and follow road. Turn right and follow it for 300 metres Ph: +353 (0) 66 9474233. Rooms start at 35 the track over a small bridge to reach the to a graveled road on the left. Euros per person sharing. surfaced road. • Head past a cottage on your right and over a Waterville Lodge Hotel • Take a left on the road and approximately 400 stile. Stay on a wide track all the way to the www.watervillelodge.com/ m up the road turn right. The Way follows a ridge. It will probably be wet in places. Ph: +353 (0) 66 9474436. Rooms start at 45 small stream for 300 m and then bears left • To reach Waterville head right and climb Euros per person sharing. The hotel is found slightly to join another bog road that leads you steeply along the ridge. (Do not follow the on the main street. to a crossroad. If you go right you will reach arrow pointing down the hill as it goes on Coars School or continue on the trail to reach the inland route to Caherdaniel). The ridge RESTARUANTS IN WATERVILLE Teeraha. Teeraha is the infamous confusing top narrows and will provide an exciting There is lots of choice in Waterville for junction from the day before. Heading directly walk along its crest to the fi rst summit. The restaurants including the Old Cable House, to Coars School will save you a bit of time. path is obvious. The Blue Bell and Paddy Frog’s across from From yesterday’s junction (Teeraha): the Waterville Craft market. A supermarket • Gently descend to a gap and then head steadily and a few bakeries make it easy to get lunch • Head right over the stile and follow the way up to the summit of Knag (208 m). You will supplies for the next day’s hike. markers up onto Coomduff Hill. There are nice be greeted by fantastic views of Inny Sands, views of Cahirciveen and the Valencia River. Ballinskellligs Bay and Lough Curran. ATM MACHINE • Descend to a boggy saddle and then ascend • Continue heading down over three stiles and The Centra Supermarket in the main section the next unnamed hill. A short, steep descent one small hump. Bear left away from the fence of Waterville has an ATM machine.

hikebiketravel.com 11 DAY 6: WATERVILLE TO CAHERDANIEL - COASTAL National Historic Park. There is a longer, inland route as an alternative to the coastal route. It is a • Head over a stile, turn right and in a few remote and challenging 29 kilometre (18 paces head left over another stile. You will mile) trek and involves retracing the last be heading through woods with some way 6.5 kilometres from yesterday’s route to markers on a clear path. Head up after a few start near Dromod. I have not included a hundred metres to a stile and then railroad route description for it though from other ties to get you through a boggy section. hikers I understand it to be well signed. That will take you to a stone bridge. • After crossing the bridge continue down DISTANCE beside the stream for about 200 m and then 13 kilometres (8 miles) plus 400m total (1300 head left keeping a stone wall on your right. feet) of elevation gain • Go through a gate to a minor road and continue straight but keep looking for TIME NEEDED markers. After 300m the road ends right in 3 - 4 hours plus any breaks needed a farmyard/car junkyard. Arrows point the way right through the farm. TERRAIN Major roads for a small time, minor roads, lots • Go through a gate and walk along the edge of of green and boggy tracks, some track through the fi eld to another gate. Cross a footbridge, dense grass and ferns near Caherdaniel cross a small fi eld and head through a gap in the stone wall. HIGHLIGHTS • Head diagonally right over a stone wall and On a clear day there are wonderful views of the then cross another wall on the left. Head Beara Peninsula to the south and the islets close through thick gorse (the prickly yellow to shore. The Scariff Inn that you pass on the PATH TO CAHERDANIEL blooming shrub) to a stile with a stone wall route calls its’ view the best in Ireland. It is also on the right. This is a wet section. an easy day so consider a side trip to Derrynane Bridge and shortly thereafter turn right onto Beach or Derrynane National Historic Park. • Go up to the last stile before Caherdaniel a minor road. and take a path with a wall on the right. • Follow it for 2 kilometres and then look for Continue onto a minor road which will SIDE TRIPS shortly place you in Caherdaniel. Derrynane National Historic Park or the a marker on the left pointing up a short, Skellig Islands (see the earlier description on grassy, muddy track. Take it to the road and turn right. ACCOMODATION page 10) Derrynane Bay House Derrynane National Historic Park: • Follow the road for 600 m, head left over a www.ringofkerry.net Ph: +353(0) 66 9475404. The park is located southwest of Caherdaniel stile and walk uphill to another stile. Rates are 40 Euros per person sharing. The and could be included in the day’s walk • The track follows a wide valley with an B&B is located 1 km away before Caherdaniel from Waterville to Caherdaniel. There is a abundance of stone walls. There will be overlooking Derrynane Bay. small entrance fee of 2.50 Euros per adult. 10 widely spaced stiles to climb in the next The Kerry Way B&B The park has a number of nature trails and kilometre. Most of the track is grassy and www.bedandbreakfast-directory.co.uk/uploads/ at low tide one can visit the tiny offshore can be quite wet in places. estate/hotels/hotels1966.htm Abbey Island. You could also walk along the • Head over a rocky spur of Farraniaragh beach and visit the ancestral home of Daniel Ph: +353 (0) 66 9475277. Rates are 20 Euros Mountain down to another stile and then per night sharing. O’Connell, a politician who campaigned cross a bridge over a stream. Climb up a for the right for Catholics to sit in the short grassy valley where a rock wall will The Old Forge Seaside B&B Westminster Parliament in the 1800’s. The look to be blocking your path. There are www.theoldeforge.com/ park is open from May until September from steps built into the wall so climb over it and Ph: +353(0) 66 9475140. Rates are 30-37 9am until 6pm and on Sundays from 11am cross the road on the diagonal. Euros per person sharing. It is approximately until 7pm. At other times of the year hours 1 kilometre away from town. are much shorter. • Follow a marked track up to the crest with a nice view of Darrynane Bay. Head down Travellers Rest Hostel FOOD AND RESTAURANTS a grassy track, cross a stile and head left www.hostelcaherdaniel.com along the main road. For the short day you probably won’t need to Ph: +353(0) 66 9475175. The hostel is only buy anything until you get to Caherdaniel. It has • Reach the Scariff Inn after 500m of walking. a minute walk away from the shops, pubs a pub, café and a gas station where you can buy It claims to have the best views of Ireland. and restaurants. Rooms are priced from 17-21 food. The Court House Café on the main street • Seventy fi ve metres past the Inn on the right Euros per person depending on whether they is a good lunch destination. You can also eat at is a minor road that winds its way down to are private or dormitory style. the Scariff Inn, 7 kilometres from Waterville. Bunavalla Pier. Follow it down for a solid kilometre, bearing left at any intersection and RESTAURANTS ROUTE past a junction on the right down to a stile. IN CAHERDANIEL The route is generally well marked except for a For a small town there are a reasonable short section near the end. After the fi rst steady • About 250 m after the stile head left up a number of restaurants and pubs including climb it is mostly small undulations up gentle mostly gravel path and then bear left up a some with Irish music. The Courthouse Café hillsides and then back down into the valley. grassier path. is a reasonably priced spot for lunch. • Leave Waterville going south, or left if you • About a half kilometre later of walking, are facing the Charlie Chapman statue, on descend through woodland on a mostly ATM the main road. Cross the Currane River rocky path to the road leading to Derrynane There are no ATM’s in town. 12 hikebiketravel.com DAY 7: CAHERDANIEL TO SNEEM

SHEEP WILL BE A COMMON SIGHT ON YOUR TRIP DISTANCE minor road past a well maintained cemetery where you turn right. on your right and the overgrown Kilcrohane 18 kilometres (11 miles) with a total elevation • After less than half a kilometre arrive at cemetery on your left. After 150m from the gain of 450m (1500 feet). the N70 highway and turn left. Follow it for cemetery go through two gates and follow a 400m to a minor road on the left. Descend grassy track to the top of a small hill. TIME NEEDED for 100m to a junction and head right for 4 ½ - 6 hours plus breaks and lunch • Head down into a valley, cross a number of 400m to the end of the tarmac. stiles, go through a gate and along a hedge • Go through a gate and past a creepy cottage TERRAIN lined road. Continue straight where there is for 600m. Follow a wide track by another Lots of hill and forest tracks, wet and boggy an obvious bend and cross footbridges over planted forest. On a clear day the views will in places; almost 10 kilometres of minor roads the Meaghan and Gowla Rivers. and a short section on a major road be excellent here. • Beyond a stile continue on the track and • The track carries straight into a minor road head uphill. Cross a minor road and pass HIGHLIGHTS for 400m. Where it bends right, climb a stile through a gate on a grassy track. Look for Sea and mountain views as well as interesting on the side of the road and head along a markers on posts and in trees. rocks along the paths. track into a valley. FOOD AND RESTAURANTS • Take a gravel road to tarmac and once again descend into another valley. This is the • Where it obviously bends left, continue Buy lunch supplies in Caherdaniel as there is road that leads to Staigue Fort so there are straight (there is a small sign) and cross a nothing else until Sneem which has everything. more cars than usual on it. Stay on the road footbridge to a minor road. There is some for almost 2 kilometres and when it bends new road building in the area. Continue for ROUTE 2 kilometres until it meets the main road. The route is generally well marked though they left (towards the fort) carry on straight on a wide path. After 250 m cross a stile and Turn left and follow a roadside path into are a little stingy at times with way markers. Sneem only a few hundred metres away. Look for markers on trees and posts and when continue over rocky, boggy moorland. in doubt follow very well used paths. • Climb steadily for almost a kilometre, dip ACCOMODATION over a small stream and head through a Bank House B&B • From the main crossroad in Caherdaniel www.sneem.com/bankhouse.html head straight (east) along a well signed narrower gap to the crest of a spur. path. Cross a stile and head steeply uphill • Continue on a wide track past the planted Ph: +353 (0) 64 45226. The B&B is conveniently to the crest of a hill. There are almost no forest. Pass through a small gate by a farm located right on the main street. markers here but the path is very obvious. and continue for 200m to a small bridge. Sneem River Lodge • Go through a gate and look for a well worn Descend across a fi eld, cross a stile to a gravel www.sneemriverlodge.ie/ path heading up. It briefl y dips then rises to a road and veer right to descend a minor road. Turn left onto another minor road. ph: +353 (0) 64 6645578. Rates are 35 Euros junction over the course of 2.5-3 kilometres. per person sharing. The lodge is within Heading left would take you on the inland • Walk 150m on the road and then head onto walking distance of shops and restaurants. route to Caherdaniel. Instead go straight a fenced track. Cross a footbridge and climb over a stile and head down a wide track steeply to another crest passing a farm on Coomassig View B&B that often looks like a grass highway. It was your right. [email protected] once the main road between Caherdaniel www.coomassigview.kerry-ireland.com • Head down through the clear-cut trees and Kenmare. As such if you look straight keeping to the right edge of cut conifers Ph: +353 (0) 64 6675005. It has very nice, off in the distance you can see the hilltop or you will end up in thick boggy sections spacious rooms with a charming and extremely that you will eventually summit. otherwise. At the end of the boggy section helpful host. It is the fi rst B&B you will reach on • Cross two stiles, and continue straight on a veer left then down a path to a forest road the Kerry Way and it is only 300 m from town. hikebiketravel.com 13 DAY 8: SNEEM TO KENMARE

DAN MURPHY’S BAR IN SNEEM DISTANCE interesting as the rest of the Kerry Way. There • At the junction opposite the church head 30 kilometres (19 miles) plus a total elevation are huge sections of bog and mud areas left along a minor road signposted to gain of 645m (1900 feet) where your eyes need to be focused on your Letterfi nigh. After 50m turn right and walk feet instead of the view which detracts greatly parallel to the main road that you see below. TIME NEEDED from the day. It is very wet and muddy for about 800m. 8 ½ - 10 1/2 hours plus breaks and lunch • Head through the colourful town of Sneem • Pass a narrow lake on your left as you (think pink, green and red within a block!) emerge into an open area. The track varies TERRAIN on the main road and cross the Sneem from skinny to wide as it continues from the Minor roads, N70 on a few occasions with the River on a pedestrian bridge found on your open back into woodland. It heads across afternoon section being an unavoidable 2.3 right. Head diagonally left across the North a broad saddle and several hundred metres kilometres; lots of forest tracks, grassy tracks, Square on the far side of town and look for later crosses a stile by a gate onto a minor and woodland paths with huge amounts of a lane. It is well marked. road. The Way is well signed and obvious through here. mud and water possible because of so many • Follow the lane for 800m and turn left at boggy sections. a junction. Carry on straight at the next • Once on the minor road head past many junction. Head down, cross a stile and large homes on well kept grounds and bear HIGHLIGHTS then a small stream. Regain the height on left after 600m. This gravel road heads up Two scenic hills including one right at the a minor road. and bends right. Cross a stile. Walk for end of the day and beautiful woodland/river- another 250m and then leave the gravel • Walk on woodland tracks and moorland ocean hiking for several kilometres with nice road as it begins bending left. Descend onto paths for the next 2.2 kilometres. Near the views to the Beara Peninsula to the south. a boggy track and head up a well marked end of this section you will pass an old stone path to a saddle with wonderful views. WARNINGS cottage that serves as a bat roost. When you The way is VERY poorly marked shortly after reach the N70 head left. • Look for the posts as you head downhill, across a stile and onto a path through crossing the stile where the farmer’s rules • After 600m leave the highway on the fi rst woodland and eventually onto a gravel are posted, about two thirds of the way into small road to the right. Turn left after 150m road. Continue on until you cross a large the hike. Read through these notes for that along a gravel road. The next 1.5 kilometres stile. After 30m you reach a larger track. section. The walk to the top of Gortamullin of road is well signed and obvious but very Head left to a stile and then right to a minor has very few way markers and the actual path muddy and wet. It is a mixture of minor road to Blackwater Bridge. is oftentimes not obvious. In foggy conditions roads, gravel roads and grassy tracks and this would be a very diffi cult area to hike. not particularly pleasant. When you pass an • Head left along the N70 for 200m and cross entrance road to a house continue on past the Blackwater River. Turn right onto a ROUTE and up a grassy lane bearing left to a tarmac forest track and follow it for 300m to a well The Sneem to Kenmare day is a particularly lane. Follow it for only a few metres to reach marked path to the shore. This is a fantastic long day and in my opinion not nearly as a junction by the Tahilla River Bridge. spot to enjoy a picnic lunch and views of 14 hikebiketravel.com DAY 8: SNEEM TO KENMARE the Beara Peninsula. • The path follows the shore rising and falling for almost a kilometre. Some places are very slippery when wet. A gradual rise takes you to a gravel track. Bear right where a road comes in from the left. Continue to a junction and turn right again. Much of this area is logged or is in the process of being logged so the road is very dug up and wet in places. • Shortly, behind a high stone wall on your right are some large stone houses which sit on the site of Dromore Castle. After 300m look for a path to the right. • The next kilometre or so is a series of well marked turns every 200m or so until you reach a very ornate, imposing gate on the right with obvious security. Continue down this road which feels incongruous to being in the neighbourhood of a fi ne home. The roads are badly dug up by WINDY GAP AREA ABOVE KENMARE ON DAY 9 logging trucks and there is evidence of plenty of ongoing activity. Persevere • Cross a stile and footbridge over the Reen • Continue into town and cross a footbridge through these muddy sections until you River. Bear right onto a minor road, then over the Finnihy River. Kenmare has a reach the N70. weave your way uphill for 100m and then pretty market square and a wide variety of over a stile. restaurants and pubs. • Turn right on the N70 and hope the traffi c • Another 200m of walking will take you to is light since the next 2.5 kilometres require ACCOMODATION an unavoidable walk on the highway. Drinks another stile and then it is time to start steep climbing over open ground. There are Riverville House B&B and snack food are available at Spillane’s Bar, www.rivervillehousekenmare.com about a kilometre into the highway walk. a few way markers in this section to help you navigate. Footing over the tussocky Ph: +353 (0) 64 6641775. Rates are 35-40 Euros • Turn left off of the highway at an obvious clumps can be hard going. per person sharing. I can highly recommend way marker, about 15 minutes from • Look up the hill for the next stiles so this B&B, especially considering the price. It Spillane’s Bar. Follow the road for 300m and had by far the best appointed room in any of turn right to reach a gravel track. This leads you have an idea of where you are heading. The path is indistinct through the 15 or more B&B’s that I stayed in and it up to the aforementioned gate with a list is a short and pretty 5 minute walk to town. of rules posted by the landowner. This is the tall grasses and in foggy conditions this section would be extremely diffi cult There is a computer with free internet use, a where it gets interesting as there are NO lovely common area and exceedingly helpful without a very good map and compass!!! markers where there should be markers. hosts. You won’t go wrong here. Another few markers will lead you to the • Climb the stile and BEAR LEFT along the summit of Gortamullin and outstanding Kenmare Lodge Hostel edge of the field. About 100m on, there views of the Kenmare estuary. www.kenmarehostel.com is an intersection where you need to go UP and left. Keep the wire fence on your • Begin descending in an easterly direction for Ph: +353 (0) 64 6640662. Rates start from left and head up to the next fence turn. about 200m and then head right. Descend 15 Euros per person sharing. The hostel is Turn left, away from the direction of the hillside by following the well placed conveniently located on the main street. Kenmare. Follow this rough, muddy path way markers towards the farm buildings Lansdowne Arms Hotel for another 100m where it will swing you can see off in the distance. www.lansdownearms.com back on itself. Stop and look up to the • Head right over a stile, head diagonally Ph: +353 (0) 64 41368. Rates start at 65 Euros top of a small hill where finally there is across a fi eld for 200m and then bear left per night per room. The hotel is also on the a marker. Zigzag up the hill to another after climbing another stile. Head down a main street. rough track that will head off to the right path to a minor road. You can see Kenmare Kenmare Bay Hotel through the planted forest. You will not off in the distance. actually reach the marker you saw from www.kenmarebayhotel.com • Continue on the minor road for almost a the bottom of the hill. Ph: +353 (0) 64 41300. Rates start at 79 Euros kilometre until you reach the N70. Turn per room. The Hotel is a 3 -4 minute walk to • Cross a stile and head through soupy left onto the roadside path. There are some the main street. ground to another stile. Now make your B&B’s in this vicinity but there are many way through another boggy track. Having others closer to town. Tara Farm B&B fun here?? About 200m past the forest bear • Once you reach the Kenmare Bay Hotel you www.tara-farm.com/ left and now follow way markers down a either stay on N70 (bad choice) or take a Ph: +353 (0) 64 6641272. Rates start at 35 slope full of tussocky grasses. shortcut by crossing the N70 at the hotel Euros per person sharing. • Head over another stile in another planted entrance. The shortcut requires that you Rockcrest House B&B forest where the trail gets nasty for about walk straight ahead (about 25m) in front of www.rockcresthouse.com/ 75m. There are a lot of downed trees so you the hotel entrance until you see a pedestrian may need to remove your pack to climb over path bearing left. Follow it for 20m and then Ph: +353 (0) 64 41248. Rates are 30-40 Euros and under them in this section. Fortunately turn right. There will be a sign indicating per person sharing. It is a 5 minute walk from the trail is obvious. that you will be in town in 3 minutes. town and right beside the Riverville House B&B. hikebiketravel.com 15 DAY 9: KENMARE TO KILLARNEY DISTANCE through beautiful woods. A waterfall on your • Head up the road in front of the house and take 24 kilometres (15 miles) plus 690m (2300 right would make a picturesque lunch spot. the road that is signposted to Killarney. Follow feet) total of vertical gain it to another road, about 200m away. Cross • Continue up the Old Kenmare Road. over to a path between the lake and the road. • Follow the signs and descend to Torc • The path joins a wider path opposite TIME NEEDED Waterfall. There is a car park on your 6-8 hours plus breaks and lunch Muckross Abbey. There are a few signposts right (before the descent to Torc waterfall) in the vicinity. Follow this path to the right that could be a meeting place for a taxi. and up to a minor road. Turn left and shortly TERRAIN Allow at least 60 minutes to reach it from you’ll be out of the gates of Killarney Park. Minor roads, gravel roads, rocky tracks and the waterfall back at the bottom of the • Turn left and follow the path by the N70 paved roads once in Killarney Park Esknamucky Glen. road to the bridge over the Flesk River and • Go through the tunnel under a road past the on to Killarney to complete the Kerry Way!!! HIGHLIGHTS spot where the horses wait. Follow the signs Now it is time for that pub crawl! Beautiful views from Strickeen Hill and then for Muckross House, 1.8 kilometres away. once at Windy Gap there are great views of You could cut across the lawns by the house ACCOMODATION Purple Mountain. Killarney National Park is and save yourself a small bit of walking. See earlier section on Killarney on page 4. as lovely as it was on the fi rst day.

COMMENTS As beautiful a day as it is there is somewhat KERRY WAY TRAVEL TIPS of a feeling of let’s just get this done. Some people (if they have a cell phone) call a MOUNTAIN RESCUE Killarney taxi to pick them up from the dial 999 or 112 parking lot ABOVE Torc Waterfall thus saving at least an hour of walking. KILLARNEY TAXIS Ph: +353 (0) 87 2694646 ROUTE or +353 (0) 87 2582040. It is very straight forward day and much of the time you can see exactly where you’re CALLING NORTH AMERICA heading. 001 + area code + local number • Leave Kenmare Square and head past Holy Cross Church on a path beside Old Killarney CELL PHONE RENTALS Road. It is well signed in the town center. There are times a cell phone would be Follow the road as it climbs, steeply at times, handy and if you are travelling alone it to a saddle on the east side of Strickeen Hill. It might give you and your family some peace is approximately three kilometres to that point. of mind. Visit www.cellhire.com or www. Once there, you can see the road/path straight cellularabroad.com/ for more information. TOUR COMPANIES ahead that will take you to Windy Gap. If you want alternatives to doing the arranging yourself you could consider • Descend steeply to a bridge (almost another ELECTRIC PLUGS calling one of the following tour operators. kilometre) and continue past one junction to Use the same plug that is used in Great a crossroad. The road becomes a gravel track Britain. They are found in travel stores and Footfalls Walking Holidays at that point. Climb for a bit and continue at the airport. www.walkinghikingireland.com on a mostly dry rocky path down one dip Ph: +353 (0) 404 45152. Self guided trips and then up to the Windy Gap itself. It lives WEATHER FORCASTS are 546 Euros per person sharing. up to its name! Views of Purple Mountain www.met.ie Select . Celtic Nature are excellent from here. www.celticnature.com • You can see the track below and a dense CAMPING Ph: +353 (0) 66 9152095. They arrange thicket of conifers down and to the left. There are some hardy souls that do camp self guided walking tours for 680 Euros per That is your next goal. Descend and cross a along the Kerry Way but because all land person sharing. number of streams. Walk past the conifers is privately owned it is necessary to get the which hide the ruins of a house. farmer or landowner’s permission before Wonderful Ireland Walking Tours you start setting up a tent. The weather and www.walkingholiday.ie/ • Continue heading down and in the distance the bugs in the summer are the other two you can now see the trail that you took to Black detractions so consider the hostel route if Ph: +353 (0) 877 613344. They offer an Valley. There are a few steep sections and three you are trying to save money instead. abbreviated Kerry Way tour for 545 Euros streams to cross on boulders. It may take a leap per person sharing. of faith to cross one of the streams but all the Trek-Inn Holidays boulders are solid and well spaced. MAPS If you want a good map ahead of time www.trek-inn.com • It is about 250 m on the fl at track to get to visit www.irishmaps.ie. You can always pick Ph: +44 (0) 7005 803364. Their 8 day self the junction with the track to Black Valley. one up at the tourist information center in guided trip is 950 Euros. From there everything should be familiar Killarney. but just in case it is not read below. SouthWestWalks Ireland www.southwestwalksireland.com/ • Head right at the junction with the track SHOTS to Black Valley. Head back up through I would recommend that you have an up to Ph: +353(0) 66 7128733. They offer guided woodland, across the railway ties over the date tetanus shot. There are plenty of rusty and self guided trips with versions of the boggy ground and then down a rocky path fences along the Kerry Way. route described above.

16 hikebiketravel.com