Tighnavenish, Isle of

CONTENTS PAGE No.

Figure 1: Site Location Map and Plan 2

Introduction 3

Background information on the Isle of Gigha 3

Report on the Archaeological Watching Brief 5

Conclusion 8

Figure 2: Photograph of the house plot prior to excavations 9

Figure 3: Photograph of house plot on completion of excavations 9

Discovery and Excavation in entry 10

Acknowledgements 11

Bibliography 11

Finds List 11

Photograph Lists 12

Contents and Location of the Archive 12

Report Distribution 13

Contact Addresses 13

Firat Archaeological Services 1 Tighnavenish, Isle of Gigha

Firat Archaeological Services 2 Tighnavenish, Isle of Gigha

Introduction

Planning permission for the development of a single dwelling house at Tighnavenish, Achavnish, Isle of Gigha ( NGR: NR 6512 4928; Planning Reference 03/01240/DET) required that an archaeological watching brief was conducted on all ground works associated with the development. The archaeological watching brief was carried out by Fiona Baker of Firat Archaeological Services on 1 and 2 October 2003 on bright, sunny and dry days.

The archaeological policy of the West of Scotland Archaeology Service, who advise and Bute Council on archaeological matters, and Historic Scotland is that all excavation and ground disturbance on the Isle of Gigha requires an archaeological response. The reason for this blanket archaeological requirement for the island is due to the range and density of archaeological sites known on the island, its geographic location and suitability of the island for settlement. It is very likely that there are as many buried archaeological remains on the island as there are visible archaeological sites. Indeed it is likely that more archaeological sites are buried and invisible from the surface then have so far been identified on the island

The Isle of Gigha

The Isle of Gigha is a low lying and fertile island measuring 6 miles long north-south (NNE-SSW) and about 1 mile wide with the highest point, Creag Bhan (white or sacred rock) rising to 100m. It is located three miles off the west coast of Kintyre and it is in a key position on the coastal route down Kintyre and it lies between Kintyre and Islay, seat of the Lords of the Isles. Gigha is generally taken to mean God’s Island or Isle of the Gods or, less often, as Good Island. The difference in meaning between God’s Isle and Isle of Gods is considerable and there is archaeological evidence to support both interpretation. Folklore and pagan beliefs are well documented for the Isle of Gigha and a great many of the prehistoric sites are imbued with legend, folklore and traditional pagan Celtic customs, notably those which were adopted into the early Celtic church. Early Christian sites also indicate the importance of the island in the Christianisation of the Atlantic Sea Province in the 5th and 6th centuries and Irish connections are attested in both archaeological remains and folklore. The population of Gigha has decreased steadily from 514 inhabitants on Gigha and Cara, the island off the south end, in 1755 to about 140 inhabitants today.

The island has a long spinal ridge of outcrops of epidiortie with basalt inclusions and there is quartzite and grit in the south and east of the island. Some of the best examples of glaciated rock in Scotland are to be found on Creag Bhan, the summit of which appears to have not been coverd with ice during the Ice Age. The island is fertile and has particularly fine dairy pasture over about one quarter of its area. There is a story that the potatoes grown on Gigha were of such excellent quality that Irish potato farmers used to buy them to place on the top of their own potatoes at the market. The two largest lochs, Mill Loch and Upper Loch, are both thought to be artificial lochs and the small islands in Upper Loch may be crannogs. There are a number of caves around the coastline of the island.

There are some 200 recorded archaeological sites on Gigha including Bronze Age burial cairns and cists, standing stones such as the famous Bodach and Cailleach at Firat Archaeological Services 3 Tighnavenish, Isle of Gigha

Achamore and cup marked stones. There are at least ten, possibly as many as thirteen duns or fort sites, most of which probably date to the ‘Dark Ages’ of the first millennium AD. Early Christian cross sites such as Kilchattan (cross missing since the 19th century), Ruidh’a a’ Chaibeal and the altar like Holy Stone indicate Gigha was amongst the first Christian communities of Scotland. The remains of a 13th century chapel at Kilchattan to the south of Ardminish, the main settlement, is dedicated to a 6th century Irish missionary St Catan. The octagonal stone font from the old chapel is now in the new church at Ardminish. A former minister on the island, Rev. Dr Kenneth Macleod, (born 1872) wrote the famous song The Road to the Isles amongst other songs and he is commemorated in a stained glass window in the church at Ardminish. A standing stone carved with ogham script along its NW edge is located close to the ruins of the old chapel. Translation of Ogham is still being researched and refined but it appears the inscription, which is in Irish type ogham, contains the ‘maq’ (son) element suggesting the inscription is a commemoration of ‘x son of y’ and one suggestion has been ‘the son of Coiceile’. There are also a number of medieval graveslabs in the old kirkyard, some of which date back to the 14th century and which largely commemorate the MacNeills. The remains of a 15th century chapel are present at Findlugan on the small island Isle of Cara off the south coast of Gigha. There are also abundant traces of medieval and post-medieval settlement, agriculture and fishing.

One of the first historical events recorded for the Isle of Gigha dates to 1263 when King Haakon of Norway anchored his fleet of over 100 ships in the Gigalum Sound at the SE corner of the island before the battle of Largs. While King Haakon was on Gigha he received the allegiance of Murdoch and Angus of Kintyre, the Lairds of Gigha. King Haakon also anchored his fleet at Gigalum Sound after his defeat at Largs by King Alexander before returning to Norway.

In 1309 King Robert the Bruce granted the ‘Island of Gug’ to the Earl of Mar. In 1335 Edward Balliol formally granted Gigha to John, Lord of the Isles and Chief of the MacDonalds and this grant was confirmed by Edward III when he occupied Scotland in 1336 and again in 1343 by King David II when the Scottish kings had regained their position. The island remained in the hands of the MacDonald Lords of the Isles until 1449 when Alexander, Earl of Ross and Lord of the Isles died having granted part of the island to Torquil MacNeill of Taynish and ‘two merklands’ to the monks of Paisley. In 1493 the whole island became the possession of the MacNeills of Taynish. In 1530 the island was plundered by the pirate Allan McLean (Allan-na- Sop) who killed Neil MacNeill of Taynish and a large number of the inhabitants. However, James V again conferred the title to Gigha on the murdered MacNeill’s son, also called Neil, and elevated Gigha to a Barony. Just a few years later in 1542 eleven gentlemen of Gigha were slain by unknown assailants and the title deeds were ‘lost’ before they reappeared in MacDonald (Clan Ranald) hands in 1554. The following year, 1555, Neil MacNeill was restored as Lord of Gigha by Mary Queen of Scots but he then sold the island to the MacDonalds of Islay. The MacDonalds then sold Gigha to Sir John Campbell of Calder but it was repurchased by McNeill of Taynish in 1590 for 3000 merks (£170 sterling).

The island then belonged to the MacNeills of Taynish until the later 18th century. In 1689 William of Orange had landed on Gigha on his way to Ireland and he was supported by MacNeill of Gigha. The MacNeills also remained loyal to the Crown during the 1745 Rising, which was not surprising as the Duke of Argyll was

Firat Archaeological Services 4 Tighnavenish, Isle of Gigha

MacNeill’s overlord. In 1779 MacNeill of Taynish sold his part of the island to John MacNeil of Colonsay who became the first resident owner and the rest of the island was owned by another family member of the MacNeills of Taynish.

In 1865 the island was sold to J Williams Scarlett of Thryberg in Yorkshire for the sum of £49,000. This was the first time the entire island had been under single ownership and it remained in the Scarlett family until 1919 when it was sold to Major John Allen. Allen sold the island to RJA Hamer in 1939 and his son-in-law, Somerset de Chair, sold it to Sir James Horlick, who created the famous gardens at Achamore, in 1944. The Horlick family, (as in the drink Horlicks) owned the island until 1973 when it was sold to David W Landale. The Horlick Family made considerable efforts to improve the island and stop depopulation and they modernised all of the farms and increased dairy production up to 250,000 gallons of milk a year. Landale sold the island, including all of the islands main businesses and a fish farm, to the English property developer Malcolm Potier’s company Tanap Investments for £5.4 million in 1989. In 1992 it was attached by Interallianz Bank of Zurich and it was then bought by David Holt of Holt Leisure Parks (owners of Inverkip Marina) for over £2m. On 15 March 2002 the island was bought by the inhabitants for the sum of £4,000,025 who now own and manage the islands resources as the Isle of Gigha Heritage Trust.

Report on the Archaeological Watching Brief

The house site is located on the SE corner of a grass pasture field on the N side of the track to Achavnish steading just before the farm track turns to the N. The house plot lies in a shallow natural depression with the ground surface sloping down very gently towards the centre and S part of the house plot from the NW, N, NE and E. The site is located at NGR NR 6512 4928 and at c. 15m aod. There are two outcrops of bedrock in the form of substantial hummocks which follow the N-S line of the geological strikes on the W and E sides of the plot. The topography of the immediately surrounding area is of open grass pasture in improved fields with frequent outcrops of bedrock forming hummocks of higher land. The site has good open views to the south and partial views to the SE towards Kintyre. It is overlooked by higher ground to the N and the W. The underlying geology is of Quartzite, Grit and interstratified quartzose-mica-schist.

No archaeological remains or finds have been reported from the site location in the past but an archaeological watching brief of the excavations was required due to the density of archaeological sites present on Gigha. The possibility of wind blown sand deposits overlying earlier occupation levels was also considered a possibility for this site although no windblown sand layers were found to be present on excavation.

The archaeological watching brief was undertaken in good field conditions of dry weather and bright sunshine. An area larger than the T-shaped footprint of the new house, to allow for building and drainage around the house, was excavated by machine with a toothless ditching bucket under direct archaeological supervision and direction. The machine driver, Mark Rennie of Tarbert Farm, was able to provide some background information on the site which had been farmed by his family. The site had not been ploughed for at least ten years but it had previously been under ploughed cultivation for several decades and it was always considered as quite stony

Firat Archaeological Services 5 Tighnavenish, Isle of Gigha ground. This information was confirmed by the nature of the topsoil and subsoil deposits encountered during the watching brief.

The excavation area of the house plot measured a total area of 350 square metres. The depth of excavation varied between 0.25m and 1.00m across the house plot. This was in order to create a level surface into which to cut the foundations and reflects the uneven ground surface and natural depression in which the house plot is located. The greatest depth of excavation was at the NE corner of the plot and gradually decreased to 0.30m depth of excavation at the NW corner of the site. The water pipe trench, which runs E-W alongside the road to Achavnish at c. 2.25m N of the post and wire fence line and 3m N of the edge of the track, is 150m long and was excavated to a depth of 0.60m and was 0.50m wide throughout. The pipe trench was dug without archaeological supervision but inspection of this trench indicated that no archaeological remains other than field drains were present. Four test pits had been excavated at the site prior to the arrival of the archaeologist. The maximum depth of excavation was c. 1.2m and standing water was present in the bottom of two of the trenches. The deposits revealed in the test pits were confirmed by the watching brief of the house plot.

The topsoil / plough soil was a homogenous 0.30m deep layer of medium to dark brown sandy loam, quite firm in compaction, with moderate inclusions of stones of schist, sandstone and quartzite on average 0.10m x 0.08m x 0.06m and very rare inclusions of small boulders of c. 0.2m x 0.2m x 0.3m. The uppermost 0.10m was quite compact due to root penetration by the well established pasture grass. Late 19th and early 20th century pottery sherds were recovered only from the plough soil. Underlying the topsoil was a layer of quite firm homogeneous orange brown sand 60%, silt 30% and clay 10% with moderate inclusions of stones less than 0.10m in size, which varied in depth between 0.10m and 0.30m depth. It was apparent that this subsoil is also a plough soil and the variation in depth reflects the uneven nature of the ground with greater depth on the higher parts of the site and less depth in the lower parts of the site. No finds were recovered from this old plough soil, which was not turned over by the plough as frequently as the sandy loam topsoil but it is clear that it has been turned by ploughing on more than one occasion in the past. One glacial erratic boulder of c. 0.8m x 0.7m x 0.6m along with a number of smaller boulders was recovered from the topsoil – subsoil interface at the SE corner of the excavation area but these stones were entirely natural in origin and no trace of any archaeological remains was present. There was no evidence of rig and furrow or plough marks and it is likely that any rig and furrow would have been removed by deep ploughing.

Underlying the old plough soils two natural horizons were exposed across the site. The orange – brown silty sand, which represents an old plough soil from deep ploughing but which has been left undisturbed for many years allowing it to become a more homogenous and distinct subsoil layer, overlies a layer of coarse gritty sand. This layer of coarse and gritty sand was a maximum of 0.20m deep and was pinkish- orange in colour and contained occasional inclusions of sandstone and micaceous schist stones. This layer appears to be entirely natural in origin and composition. Underlying the pinkish-orange sand layer were rather mixed natural deposits of sand giving way to boulder clay, which were excavated to a depth of c. 0.10m in the areas of deepest excavation.

Firat Archaeological Services 6 Tighnavenish, Isle of Gigha

The underlying natural geology was quite mixed and there was considerable variation across the site between areas of sand, clay and stonier patches. The natural subsoil consisted mainly of cream and orange coloured fine sands with inclusions of micaceous schist stones, both tabular and sub-angular / rounded, which were generally smaller than cobbles in size. Fine grained white sandstone and white quartzite with an almost marble like appearance were more common and were present in equal proportions. There were also occasional inclusions of white quartz angular cobble sized stones and pebbles. Both the sandstone and quartzite stones were angular in shape and measured 0.14m x 0.12m x 0.07m on average. Very occasional larger boulders of quartzite and sandstone were also present. Within the natural sand subsoil, which did not appear to be deposited by wind, there were pockets of fractured schist and quartzite, which also had iron panning associated with them. There was evidence of iron panning and gleying across the site and also some areas of decomposed micaceous schist which was in such a decomposed state that it was almost a clay and could be formed into lumps by hand. These pockets of micaceous schist clay contained c. 75% decomposed schist. The natural sand deposits, which merge into the more clearly defined pinkish-orange subsoil layer described above, overlie boulder clay which varied in colour between grey and pale orange and was quite mottled in patches. These natural deposits were also present throughout the water pipe trench which was excavated prior to the arrival of the archaeologist.

Five stone filled field drains were located within the excavation area. Three of the drains ran N-S including the main drain into which the others drained and two diagonal branch drains ran NE-SW. All of the field drains were 0.60m wide at the top and narrowed to c.0.35m towards the bottom and were on average 0.40m deep. At the N section of the excavation area two N-S drains located 3m apart and a branch drain joining the E drain into the main W drain was present. The westernmost of the field drains was the main drain into which was fed by all of the other drains encountered. At the N section the cut through the branch drain showed two deposits of fine slightly gleyed silty sand and a 0.20m deep deposit of dark reddish-brown pure silt underlying the branch drain. The soil deposits associated with the drains indicate some standing water in the natural depression in the gorund surface here, which would have been the reason for the drains in the first place. The natural depressions in the field indicate that boggy patches or standing water would have been a problem and the field drains would have made a considerable improvement to the field despite its generally free draining sandy soils.

The main drain was the most intact of the field drains and had been dug into the subsoil that represents an old plough soil whereas the other drains were all dug from a higher level through the topsoil. As the main drain it is likely that a more major excavation took place to install this drain at a deeper level to ensure that it would not be damaged by ploughing and all of the other drains have been disturbed in their upper levels by ploughing. The field drains were constructed simply of stone filled ditches. The stones filling the drains are apparently field clearance stones and varied in size from quite small stones of less than 0.05m but were mainly cobbles and large cobbles / small boulders of c. 0.35m x 0.25m x 0.15m in size and were a mixture of quartzite, sandstone and schist reflecting the natural geology. One sherd of plain white earthenware was recovered from the diagonal NE – SW drain across the southern part of the T of the excavation area.

Firat Archaeological Services 7 Tighnavenish, Isle of Gigha

No archaeological remains other than the field drains were located at the house site. It is apparent that the field has been deep ploughed at some point in the past and that it had been ploughed over many years before returning to grass pasture. The topographic location of the house plot would not have been an ideal situation for prehistoric settlement or other activity as it is in a natural depression, which would have been prone to water logging. The silt deposits associated with the three field drains at the N section were investigated by hand and found to represent water action. The unsuitable topographic location of the site for settlement and activity and the inspection of the test pits and excavation into the natural subsoils during the excavation of the footprint determined that archaeological monitoring of the excavation of the house foundations was not necessary. The archaeological potential of the site had been fully assessed by the watching brief of the stripping of the plough soils and subsoils to a depth of up to 1m and there was no indication of any archaeological remains being present on the site. It is also of note that only a handful of white earthenwares were recovered from the plough soil suggesting that midden manuring of the field in the late 19th and early 20th century had been very limited. The number of modern pottery sherds recovered is exceptionally low compared to most sites but this may reflect the rural natural of Gigha although the machine operator who is a local farmer also commented on the lack of modern pottery in the topsoil.

Conclusion

No archaeological remains were exposed during the excavations of the house plot or the water pipe ditch. The only man made features present on the site were five stone filled field drains running across the house plot. These drains are considered relatively modern in date and a single sherd of white earthenware pottery of late 19th century date was the only dating evidence recovered for the drains and for the plough soil in general. At least two stone filled field drains and one terracotta horseshoe drain were seen in the water pipe trench.

The house plot is not a suitable topographic location for prehistoric settlement as it is in the bottom of a shallow depression, which has obviously been prone to some standing water in the past. There are plenty of immediately surrounding areas which would have been much more attractive and practical as settlement sites. The archaeological potential of the immediately surrounding area has been described to the client who intends to use the immediately surrounding land as a small holding. The evidence of deep ploughing of this field would suggest that any archaeological remains may have been damaged although it is possible the deep ploughing was restricted to this lowest lying part of the field most prone to poor drainage where the house plot is located.

Firat Archaeological Services 8 Tighnavenish, Isle of Gigha

Figure 2: Photograph of the house plot prior to excavations

Figure 3: Photograph of house plot on completion of excavations

Firat Archaeological Services 9 Tighnavenish, Isle of Gigha

Discovery and Excavation in Scotland

LOCAL AUTHORITY:

PROJECT TITLE: Tighnavenish, Gigha

PARISH: Gigha and Cara

NAME OF CONTRIBUTOR: Fiona Baker

NAME OF ORGANISATION: Firat Archaeological Services

TYPE OF PROJECT: Watching Brief

NMRS NOs: n/a

SITE / MONUMENT TYPE: greenfield, single house development

SIGNIFICANT FINDS: none

NGR: NR 6512 4928

START DATE: 1 October 2003 END DATE: 2 October 2003

PREVIOUS WORK: none

PROPOSED FUTURE WORK: none

MAIN DESCRIPTION:

An archaeological watching brief of the topsoil and subsoil strip over an area of 350 square metres in advance of development of a single house. Five stone filled field drains were located and no other archaeological remains were present.

PROJECT CODE: OG03

SPONSOR: Dr and Mrs A Oliver

ADDRESS OF MAIN CONTRIBUTOR: Hillcroft, Station Road, Rhu, G84 8LW, Argyll

ARCHIVE LOCATION: With Firat Archaeological Services and to be deposited in the NMRS. Report lodged with WoSAS.

Firat Archaeological Services 10 Tighnavenish, Isle of Gigha

Acknowledgements

The watching brief and reporting was undertaken by Fiona Baker, Director, Firat Archaeological Services. The requirements of the archaeological work were specified and monitored by the West of Scotland Archaeology Service. The project was funded by Dr and Mrs A Oliver and the machine excavation was carried out by Mark Rennie.

Bibliography

British Geological Survey Geological Survey Ten Mile Map, North Britain, 1:625,000, 3rd Edition 1979.

Fisher I 2001 Early Medieval Sculpture in the West Highlands and Islands RCAHMS / Society if Antiquaries of Scotland. Monograph Series 1, Edinburgh.

Haswell-Smith H 1996 The Scottish Islands Canongate, Edinburgh (2001 edition)

West Highlands and Islands of Argyll Tourist Board 1992 Exploring Historic Kintyre Booklet No. 7 of the West Highland Series, Harlequin Press, Oban.

Ordnance Survey 2001 Kintyre North, Map Series: Explorer 357, 1:25,000

Finds List

The following finds were recovered from the plough soil with the exception of one of the plain white earthenware sherds which was recovered from the upper fill of one of the field drains. All of the artefacts are modern in date and were not kept.

1 x corroded iron nail, 160mm long

5 x sherds of plain white earthenware pottery including 1 plate rim

1 x stoneware jar sherd from shoulder, pale cream-beige glaze, marmalade jar

1 x red earthenware body sherd with interior red-brown glaze and burnished slip exterior

1 x tiny sherd of white earthenware with blue and green hand painted decoration under the glaze, too small to determine pattern.

1 small rim sherd of white earthenware with black, sky-blue and pale purple dragged slip decoration on exterior and plain white interior.

Firat Archaeological Services 11 Tighnavenish, Isle of Gigha

Photograph Lists

Colour Print Roll 1

Number Direction (To) Description 1 NW General site view prior to excavation 2 NE General site view prior to excavation 3 SSW General site view prior to excavation 4+5+6 N N section of site showing two N-S aligned stone filled field drains and remains of truncated E-W branch drain joining secondary drain on E (R of photograph) to main field drain (L of photograph). Note layer of silt between plough soils and natural sand subsoil as a result of water percolation. 7 W Water pipe trench 8 N Excavations in progress 9 W Excavations in progress 10-12 personal removed 13 SE Field drain in section and excavation in progress 14-18 N Site as excavated 19+20 W Site as excavated 21+22 S Site as excavated 23 SE Site as excavated 24+25 E Site as excavated 26+27 NE Site as excavated 28+29 NW Site as excavated 30 SE View to Kintyre from SE corner of site

Colour Print Roll 2 (APS)

Number Direction (To) Description 38 N Site as excavated 39 W Site as excavated 40 S Site as excavated

Contents and Location of the Archive

The project archive contains the following items: • One copy of this report • Field notes and sketches • Architect’s site plan of building location and footprint • Photographs as listed

The archive is currently held by Firat Archaeological Services and will be deposited in the National Monuments Record of Scotland in due course.

Firat Archaeological Services 12 Tighnavenish, Isle of Gigha

Report Distribution

Five copies of this report have been produced and distributed to: • Dr and Mrs A Oliver • West of Scotland Archaeology Service (2 copies and including digital copy) • National Monuments Record of Scotland (including digital copy and project archive) • Firat Archaeological Services

Contact Addresses

Firat Archaeological Services Hillcroft Station Road Rhu By Helensburgh G84 8LW

Contact: Fiona Baker Telephone: 01436 820 334 07710 400 748

Dr and Mrs A Oliver Post Office Guest House Isle of Gigha Argyll

Contact: Andy and Viv Oliver Telephone: 01583 505251 07810 302127

West of Scotland Archaeology Service Charing Cross Complex 20 India Street Glasgow G2 4PF

Contact: Hugh McBrien Telephone: 0141 287 8332

Firat Archaeological Services 13 Tighnavenish, Isle of Gigha

Firat Archaeological Services 14