THE SOUTH AMERICAN SERIES VENEZUELA CATHEDRAL : CARACAS. VENEZUELA LEONARD V. DALTON, B.Sc. (Lond.) FELLOW OF THE GEOLOGICAL AND ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETIES, ETC. WITH A MAP AND 54 ILLUSTRATIONS NEW YORK: CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS LONDON : T. FISHER UNWIN 1912 % r-" (All rights reserved.) TO D. R. R. 251276 . INTRODUCTORY NOTE The author is desirous of expressing his apprecia- tion of the continued courtesy and kindness rendered during his stay in Venezuela by the British Charge d'Affaires, Mr. W. E. O'Reilly, by Mr. E. A. WaUis, and other British residents, as well as the warm reception accorded by the Venezuelan officials throughout the parts of the country he visited. Mr. F. A. HoHday, A.R.C.S., F.G.S., has made himself responsible for much of the information on the Llanos, and has assisted largely in the prepara- tion of the tables in Appendix B. Mr. J. D. Berrington, of El Callao, also furnished details relating to the Guayana goldfields and their surroundings The author is greatly indebted to Mr. N. G. Burch, F.R.G.S., for reading the manuscript and for many valuable suggestions and criticisms. He would also thank Mr. G. T. Wayman, of Caracas, for many useful documents and items of interest regarding recent developments. —— — CONTENTS PAGE INTRODUCTORY NOTE . -9 CHAPTER I PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE UNITED STATES OF VENEZUELA . -25 Situation—Area—Population—Main physical divisions The Guayana Highlands—Mountains, rivers, and forests y The Llanos Sdvas—Mesas— Rivers and cienagas—The Delta—XTa/jos—The Caribbean Hills—Serrania Costanera —Serrania Interior—Rivers—Segovia Highlands—Drain- age—Vegetation—The Andes—Portuguesa Chain—Cor- dillera of Merida—The Sierra Nevada—Mountain torrents —Vegetation Paramos — The coastal plain — Lake of Maracaibo—Coro and Paraguana lowlands—Climate " White-water " and " black-water " rivers— Seasons Tierra caliente, templada, and fria—Temperature and " seasons—" St. John's little summer — Health. CHAPTER H THE GEOLOGICAL HISTORY OF VENEZUELA . 38 Ancient land of Guayana—Comparison with Scottish Highlands — Gneisses, schists, and granite — Dykes Roraima Series—Strange peaks—The Caribbean Series " " All that glitters is not gold —La Galera—Segovia Group —Natural castles—Capacho Limestone—The " Golden Hill "—Cerro de Oro Series—Formation of mountains Early outlet of Orinoco—Cumand Series—Shoals and ' islands—Llano gravels—Cubagua Beds—Igneous rocks Earthquakes— Hot springs—A natural kettle—Coal—Iron —Gold—Copper—Lead—Petroleum and asphalt—Sul- phur — Salt Urao — Ornamental stones — Wealth in minerals. 11 —A 12 CONTENTS CHAPTER III PAGE THE PLANTS AND ANIMALS OF VENEZUELA . 47 The glamour of the South American forests—Hidden " treasures—Temples of Nature—" A dim religious light —Bejucales—Forest giants— Brazil nuts—Tonka-beans Rubber—Quinine—Arctic and tropic forms—The Llanos / — Tierra caliente—Natural hothouses—Colour and coolness Paramo plants—Monkeys—An old friend—Cannibalism —Vampires and bats—"Tigers" and "lions"—"Hand- " some is as handsome doesn't —Wild horses—Dolphins — Prickly mice — The " water-hog " — Sloths — Birds Many-coloured varieties—Umbrella-bird—" Cock-of-thc- rock " — Toucans — Cuckoos — H umming-birds — " Who are you ? '' —Oil-birds— Parrots and macaws—Eagles and vultures—A national disgrace—Game-birds—Snakes Lizards—From the Orinoco to a city dinner—A cup-tie crowd— Ferocious fish—When is a mosquito not a mos- quito ? —Agricultural ants—Gigantic spiders—Ticks— pugnacious crustacean—A rich field. CHAPTER IV VENEZUELA UNDER SPANISH RULE AND BEFORE . 61 Pre-Colombian times—No great empire— Primitive Ven- ezuelans— Picture rocks— Invasions—The Guatavitab and the legend of El Dorado—Amalivaca—An Inca prince ? Ancient roads—The discovery of Tierra firme, 1498 Alonso de Ojeda—The name "Venezuela"—A great geographical fraud—Discovery of the treasures of the west—Arrival of the conquistadores—The slave trade Treacheries of the Cubagua colonists—Gonzalez de Ocampo—Las Casas—First cities of the New World \/ Settlement of Coro—The Welsers—Alfmger—Ingratitude of Charles V.—New Andalusia— Exploration of the Orinoco : —Cruelties of Alfinger—Exploration of the Llanos— First ^ Bishop of Venezuela— Destruction of New Cadiz—Fax- ardo and the Caracas—Cities of Western Venezuela The rebellion of Aguirrc—Foundation of Caracas Pimentel moves his capital to the new city—Capture of Caracas by English buccaneers— Inaccuracies of Spanish historians— Explorations of Berrio in Guayana— Raleigh and El Dorado — Attempts to civihse the Indians — Missions— University of Caracas—Guipuzcoana Company —Revolution of Gual and Espaiia—Miranda—The last Captain-General—The Junta—Appeals to England—The Declaration of Independence. — — — CONTENTS 13 CHAPTER V PAGE THE REPUBLIC, 181I-I9II . .84 Local character of revolution— Declaration of a Constitu- tion—Centralised government—Troubles of the young republic—The Church and the patriots— Miranda- Dictatorship and downfall—Drastic measures of Monte- verde—Youth and parentage of Simon Bolivar—The gtierra a «n(er/e— Dictatorship of Bolivar—Monteverde murders four prisoners — The Mestizos — Massacre of Spaniards — Murmurings — Retirement of Bolivar — Royalist victories and reinforcements—Morillo's bar- barities—Return of Bolivar to Venezuela—Indecisive campaign—Renewed discontent— Bolivar withdraws to Haiti, but returns—Marino's insubordination—Massacre of Barcelona—Campaign in the Llanos—Arrival of the British Legion—Congress of Angostura—The march to Bogota—The republic of great Colombia—Change of allegiance of the Mestizos—Armistice of Trujillo— Negotia- tions with Spain—Recommencement of hostihties— Battle of Carabobo—End of Spanish power in Venezuela Position of Venezuela in Colombia—Separatist movement —Death of Bolivar—Paez first President of Venezuela Vargas—Folly of Marino—Progress of the country Public honours to Bolivar—Recognition of republic by France and Spain—Commerce and prosperity of the country—Tyranny of TadeoMonagas—Abolition of slavery — Revolution of Julian Castro—Capital temporarily re- moved to Valencia—Federalists and Centralists—Falcon— .-< Convenio de Cochc— Federal Constitution—Guzman Blanco —Development under his government—Revolution of Crespo — British Guiana boundary dispute — Cipriano Castro—The Mates revolution Coup d'etat of General Gomez—Centenary celebrations—Present prospects. CHAPTER VI MODERN VENEZUELA . I06 Boundaries— Frontier with Brazil—Colombia— British Guiana—Internal subdivision—States and territories with their capitals—Density of population—Constitution—De- partments of the Executive Jefes Civiles—Legislature Senators and deputies—Administration of justice—Laws ——— 14 CONTENTS relating to foreigners—Marriage— Public health— Philan- thropic institutions—Education—Coinage— Multiplicity of terms—Towns—Typical houses — Furniture — Hos- pitality—Food—Clothing—Army and navy—Insignia Biisto de Bolivar—The Press. CHAPTER VII THE ABORIGINES . II9 The Goajiros—Lake dwellings—Appearance—Territory —Villages — Government — Burial customs — Religion Medicine-men—The Caribs—A iine race—Cannibalism Headless men of the Caura—The Amazons—Industries Religion—Marriage customs—The aborigines of Guayana —Tavera-Acosta on languages—The Warraus—Appear- ance—Houses—Food — Clothing — Marriage customs Birth—Death—Religion—Treatment of sick—The Bani- bas—Appearance—Customs—Religion — Celebration of puberty of girls—Marriage customs—The Arawaks Religion— Early missions amongst Indians—Wanted, a twentieth-century apostle. CHAPTER VIII " THE STATES OF THE " CENTRO : DISTRITO FEDERAL, MIRANDA, ARAGUA, AND CARABOBO . I35 La Guaira— Heat—Port-works—The Brighton of Vene- zuela—Sugar plantations—Streets and botiquins—Guarapo —La Guaira-Caracas Railway —A great engineering feat —Caracas—Climate— Population — Streets — Buildings The Salon Eliptico — El Calvario — El Paraiso—" La India"—Water supply—Trams and telephones—Lighting —Industries—The Guaire valley — Coffee — Miranda Ocumare del Tuy— Petare—Central Railway—Vegetable snow—Carenero Railway—Rio Chico—LosTeques—Great Venezuelan Railway— La Victoria—Sixteen-fold wheat- fields — Maracay — Grazing lands — Cheese — President Gomez's country house—Villa de Cura —An epitome of the State—Lake of Valencia—Cotton—Carabobo—Valen- cia—Cotton mills—Montalban—Deserted vineyards Wild rubber—Puerto Cabello Railway—The port—Meat syndicate—Club—Ocumare de la Costa—What is bad for man may be <iood for cocoa—Mineral resources. — — CONTENTS 16 CHAPTER IX PAGE ZULIA ....... 149 The Lake of Coquibacoa in the sixteenth century and now—Wealth and importance of the State—Area and population — Waterways — Forests — Mineral wealth — Savannahs—Maracaibo— Harbour and dredging schemes —Cojoro—Wharves and warehouses of Maracaibo Exports—Population—German colony—Buildings—In- dustries—Tramways— Codies — Lake steamers — Ancient craft—The comedy of the bar—Railways—Communica- tion with Colombia—Altagracia—Santa Rita—A western Gibraltar—An eventful history—San Carlos de Zulia Sinamaica—Vegetable milk—Timber—Copaiba— Fish- eries—The " Maracaibo Lights." CHAPTER X THE ANDINE STATES : TACHIRA, MERIDA, AND TRUJILLO 157 Access—Roads versus railways—Mineral wealth—" Mara- caibo " coffee—Forests—San Cristobal—Water supply Industries—Roads—Rubio—Tachira Petroleum Company —San Antonio—Lobatera—Colon —Interrupted communi- cations—Fregonero— El Cobre—Old mines—La Grita Seboruco copper—Merida—The Bishop and the Bible Eternal snows — Earthquakes — Electric light — Road schemes—Gold and silver—Lagunillas Urao—Wayside hospitality—Puente Real— Primitive