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DUR 09/02/2021 : CUERPO F : 3 : Página 3 NOSOTROS | MARTES 9 DE FEBRERO DE 2021 | EL SIGLO DE DURANGO 3 “Phygital”, el formato del futuro en la moda Laindustriasese ciones sobre desfiles de mo- reconvierte en pos de da celebrados siguiendo es- avanzar. ta vertiente. Un término que ya intro- EFE ducía el pasado marzo el Madrid, España British Fashion Council -or- MUCHOS SE HAN ganización que promueve ADAPTADOS A LA Ni digitales ni presenciales, diseñadores y eventos de NUEVA NORMALIDAD: las presentaciones de moda moda en el Reino Unido-, del futuro serán “phygital”, cuando anunció que las si- ■ Armani, realizó un un nuevo término que hace guientes semanas de la mo- espectáculo a puerta referencia al formato que da se acogerían al formato cerrada en el Palazzo hibrida los desfiles y los fil- “phygital”, haciendo que es- Orsini, una de las mes de moda utilizados co- te nuevo vocablo se abriera mansiones que la firma mo alternativa durante la camino como una alternati- posee en Milán, donde pandemia, posicionándose va que, cimentada en lo di- retransmitióo su desfile entre ambas opciones como gital, mantiene elementos en directo. método del futuro. de lo físico. ¿Morirán los documen- Combinando presenta- ■ Chanel, recreó una tales de moda cuando acabe ciones presenciales que ex- pequeña celebración, la pandemia? La cuestión treman medidas de aforo y con un público selecto lleva meses en el aire, cau- seguridad con piezas audio- AGE NCIAS formado por Penélope Chanel realizó una presentación de su nueva colección con un selecto y muy pequeño grupo de sando un debate entre ex- visuales como entrevistas a Cruz, Vanessa Paradis y invitados. pertos que se posicionan a diseñadores o documentales su hija Lily Rose Depp, o favor o en contra de las nue- sobre procesos creativos y de la moda del circuito in- les de moda no desaparece- nuestra preferencia, pero Marion Cotillard. vas vertientes digitales que, de confección, ya son varios ternacional como Londres, rán”, pero “convivirán” con mientras haya incertidum- debido a las medidas sanita- los países, semanas de la Nueva York, Milán, París o estas nuevas formas. bre, debería haber flexibili- rias, destierran los desfiles moda y firmas los que se la española Mercedes-Benz Aforos reducidos para las dad”, argumentaba tajante- ■ Un puente entre el en directo abarrotados de han posicionado a favor de Fashion Week Madrid se presentaciones, uso obligato- mente Ralph Toledano, pre- universo digital y el público en pos de las panta- lo “phygital”. acogían a esta modalidad rio de mascarillas, implanta- sidente de la Federación tangible que se erige llas, lanzando la pregunta El formato mantiene el durante el mes más signifi- ción de distancias de seguri- Francesa de la Alta Costura como solución definitiva de cuál será el caballo gana- halo de exclusividad intrín- cativo para esta industria, dad y medición de la tempe- en una carta publicada por para expandir los dor en el futuro. seco a presentaciones de ofreciendo las primeras co- ratura imperan en la asisten- Vogue en la pasada edición. universos creativos del La plataforma digital moda de casas de costura y lecciones expuestas vía cia a pequeños eventos, que Un vaticinio que también mundo de la moda. “Vogue Runway”, encarga- también se beneficia de las “phygital”. son emitidos en directo de comparte Steven Kolb, pre- da de retransmitir conteni- posibilidades de difusión y Un nuevo paradigma forma complementaria a sidente del Consejo de dise- do ligado a los desfiles y ca- creatividad que ofrecen las que confirmaba así la teoría otro tipo de contenidos que, ñadores de moda america- lendarios de la moda en di- piezas audiovisuales, aportada, en un vídeo direc- aunque no son plenamente nos (CFDA), quien explica- recto retomaba de cara a es- abriendo una ventana hacia to de Instagram, por Esther inmersivos, intentan acercar ba que, aunque un desfile ta semana de la Alta Costu- el mundo de la moda que, García Capdevila, regidora el espectador a las firmas. sin público puede ser “una ra de París, celebrada del 25 habitualmente, quedaba re- de la pasarela madrileña y “Los espectáculos son un solución a la crisis actual” al 28 de enero, el “hashtag” servada a unos pocos pres- responsable de algunos componente importante de debido al coronavirus, “#VoguePhygitalRunway”, criptores tras invitaciones montajes en la Semana de la la industria de la moda, y se- “nada se puede comparar bajo el que aglutinar en Ins- exclusivas. moda de Nueva York. Gar- guirá siendo así… Los even- a vivir esta experiencia en tagram todo tipo de publica- En septiembre, semanas cía apuntaba que “los desfi- tos físicos siempre tendrán primera persona”. DEL RECUERDO Gaby, Zaida y Norma. (Fotos del 2014) Lucy, Lulú y Maru..
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