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Nothing says summer in B.C. like a trip to a farmers market. Here are our top picks from around the province

Fresh produce at the Trout Lake Farmers Market in Vancouver, page 36.

© Kaishin Chu 2015 Taste of Summer Cottonwood Community Market Bulkley Valley & Nelson Downtown Farmers Market local Market nelson By David Webb By David Webb

smithers Tucked beTween The babine and when The doukhobors firsT Tilled Hudson Bay mountain ranges, in British Co- soil in British Columbia’s Slocan Valley some Where: Cottonwood Falls lumbia’s lush Bulkley Valley, Smithers’ locally 120 years ago, they probably never imagined the Park (Cottonwood Community adored farmers market always draws a crowd. fertile land that provided them with hardy root Market); 400 Block of Baker “We’re a hoppin’ place,” says Lyn Nugent, vegetables would also bring drum Street (Downtown Local Mar- administrative assistant for the Bulkley Valley circles and artisan breadmakers. But ket), Nelson. Farmers Market Association. Running from that’s exactly what’s happened in this When: Saturdays, May 16 to Where: Central Park Mothers Day to the end of September, this lively close-knit town on the shores of Koo- October 31, 9:30 a.m. to 3:00 (Highway 16 and Main outdoor concourse has been a staple in the com- tenay Lake. p.m. (Cottonwood Community Street), Smithers. munity for nearly two decades. Jesse Woodward, markets and “We have live music… Many people come events director for the West Kootenay Market); Wednesdays, June When: Saturdays from and spend several hours there,” adds Nugent. Eco-Society, explains how Nelson’s 10 to September 23, 9:30 a.m. Mother’s Day Weekend to “It’s a very social event—it gets busy between 10 two summertime farmers markets to 3:00 p.m. (Downtown Local September 26; 9:00 a.m. o’clock and noon.” have boosted community spirit within Market). to 1:00 p.m. A vital part of Smithers’ summertime scene, the town. For More info: ecosociety. For More info: bvfm.ca the market is an anticipated weekly outing for become a lot more creative lately. “The Cottonwood Market has been ca/markets-festivals resident families and visitors alike. “We have “We’ve branched out. We have kohlrabi and running for 20 years in Cottonwood need to Know: The need to Know: Baker Street Bulkley Valley Farmers a lot of regulars that come every week, but we we have wonderful garlic producers that sell Falls Park. It’s an institution in Nel- erupts into the effervescent Market operates during the have fairly high tourist traffic,” adds Nugent. beautiful bunches, properly preserved so they son… people spend all day,” says MarketFest for three nights off-season in the Smithers They may not travel to Smithers specifically last right through the winter,” she adds. And on Woodward. “The one in downtown this summer (June 26, July Curling Rink. Attendance for the veggies—it is a relatively remote burg, market days, the abundance of kids wandering is very much a buyer’s and seller’s 24 and August 21). Down- is increasing—it was located on Highway 16 about halfway between the market munching oversized cookies hints market… The big draw is the fresh, lo- town will see more than 100 open every weekend this Prince George and Prince Rupert—but “a good at wares beyond produce—two local bakers see cal produce. It’s amazing to come down to Baker summer. It’s good for Nelson, and that’s good for vendors, plus live music and past October, November chunk” of happenstance travellers tend to stop guests queuing up like clockwork. Meg Roberts Street and buy food that’s been grown in the them,” explains Woodward. dance performances, from and December and every by. Local or tourist, the biggest rush is on the owns Rustica Wood Fired Bakery and creates Slocan Valley, just around the corner.” The downtown market is focused on local 6:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Ad- second weekend January, fresh veggies. As a northern community, area artisan breads in an outdoor wood fired oven; Popular though it is, the newer Downtown Lo- production—every seller is from the local area, mission is by $5 donation. February, March and April. farmers are noted for growing carrots, potatoes edible works of art almost too pretty to slice. cal Market—now in its seventh year—has seen with a “make it, bake it, grow it” ethos. The longer- and other cold-weather-tolerant vegetables, And Ursula Yeker, of Foxhole Bakery—one of the challenges. The initial obstacle, Woodward says, running Cottonwood Community Market, held though, according to Nugent, producers have market’s founding members—sells out quickly was communicating to local merchants how the Saturdays, has a different vibe. of her gingerbread and organic granola. event would benefit the community as a whole. “For true Nelson flavour, you have to come see Nugent, whose herb-growing mother was also “[Business owners’] main fear was that having the Saturday market,” says Woodward. “It’s an What's a founding member of the market, has noted a a market right downtown would to draw away incredible setting in a park with a waterfall and in steep rise in attendance over the past five years. revenue,” Woodward says. “It’s true, it does, when people in a drum circle.” “We’ve had as many as 70 vendors; we average it happens, but it also brings hundreds of people Set in Cottonwood Falls Park—home of the season? 45 to 50 vendors,” she says. “We see 500 to 1,000 onto Baker Street.” cascade that first generated electricity for Nelson [attendees] per day, easily.” With about 50 vendors on one block of down- in the 1800s—the Cottonwood Community January The market, celebrating its 20th anniversary town Nelson (“tightly packed but nicely done”), Market has permanent structures housing 40 Apples, Cabbage, next year, has been embraced by local busi- the Downtown Market sees Nelson’s main thor- vendors and is more heavily weighted on the arts Pears, Rosemary, Sage, nesses, who see the non-permanent vendors as oughfare closed to vehicle traffic every Wednes- and crafts and ready-to-eat foods. Both local and Turnips, Winter Squash. a thriving element of the community, bringing day during the season. This is an important transient merchants sell their wares throughout increased foot-traffic to downtown. The music aspect in itself, says Woodward. the summer. February starts around 10:00 a.m., drawn from a diverse “You get this European feel of people pouring “There is beautiful live music. Everyone in Apples, Cabbage, Pears, Rosemary, Sage, local talent pool, and plays until the market’s out of the businesses and local area and stroll- Nelson comes down there on Saturdays,” says Turnips. end. The mayor may even be on-hand to kick ing along Baker Street where normally there Woodward. People particularly line up for Kathy things off. would be cars,” he says. “People buy food and sit Bivar’s homemade root beer—of which she sells March “Sometimes, I really need to nip in and get around—it’s quite lively. It’s a very community- hundreds of bottles—and Jessica Piccinin’s Root Apples, Pears, my food for the week and zip out again,” says minded event.” & Vine Farms; a “super-focused young farmer” Rosemary, Sage. Nugent. “For a lot of other people, it’s for doing Seven years in, the market is a happy place. who sells sumptuous produce at both markets. their shopping—but also for having a leisurely “It really has been accepted, the city is behind Plus, there’s the French Bakery—the list goes on. April cup of coffee and a Danish and listening to the us and the business community realizes the “Nelson is a special town,” says Woodward. Apples, Asparagus, music. I like that we can achieve both of those downtown market is great to have and really “Add a summer day and a couple farmers mar- Chives, Pears, Rhubarb, things at this market.” adds a whole wonderful flavour all through the kets and it just doesn’t get any better.” Rosemary, Sage, Spinach.

30 • BCm bulKley valley FarMers MarKet assoCiation 2x jesse WoodWard 2x BCm• 31 Taste of Summer Kamloops Regional Farmers Market

By David Webb

“My MoM says ThaT i firsT visiTed The “It’s an amazingly energetic community market when I was two days old,” laughs An- space… There’s a lot of activity—really great bus- Kelowna nelise Grube-Cavers, Saturday Market manager kers and we sometimes hire live bands,” explains at the Kamloops Regional Farmers Market. Her Grube-Cavers of the weekend market. “There’s father was one of the founding members; Grube- this ambience factor and a social aspect… build- Cavers stopped by, a babe-in-arms, on her way ing relationships with not only vendors but other Kamloops Where: Located at the corner home from the hospital. Now managing the mar- community members and community groups… of Dilworth Drive and Spring- ket for the past year, her personal history at this it’s a really important hub.” field Road, Kelowna. summertime event illuminates the longstanding The Saturday market sees St. Paul Street closed community and family traditions that underline to car traffic, with about 70 vendors on site— When: Wednesday and Where: 200 block of the Kamloops Regional Farmers Market. though at times spiking to 90 or more. (Wednes- Saturday, April 1 to November St. Paul Street (Saturday 14; 8:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. Market); 400 block of Vic- With abundant agriculture in the local area, day is a calmer affair, with a maximum of about toria Street (Wednesday Kamloops hosts two markets throughout a long 35 vendors.) Live music ranges from a member For More info: kelowna- Market), Kamloops. season. Hosted on the sidewalk next to the main of the Kamloops Symphony Orchestra who farmersandcraftersmarket.com drag through town, the Wednesday market is a switches from classical to bluegrass for market need to Know: Saturday When: Saturdays, April popular place for locals to pick up their groceries days, playing strings alongside his two sons, to winter markets will also be 25 to October 31, 8:00 for the week, as well as for lunch-hour traffic. On locally beloved Willard Wallace, master of the staged indoors at Parkinson a.m. to 12:30 p.m.; Saturday, though, things really come alive. folk, country and classic rock cover tune. There Wednesdays, May 6 to Recreation Centre, 1800 Par- are also wonderful artisans and prepared food kinson Way, from November October 28, 8:00 a.m. to stalls—but the priority is on local agriculture. 2:00 p.m. 21 to March 26, between 9:00 “You can get an incredible diversity of foods,” a.m. and 1:00 p.m. For More info: says Grube-Cavers. Long-time vendors Men- kamloopsfarmersmarket. del, Paula and Saul Rubinson, of Silver Spring Kelowna Farmers & Crafters Market By John Lee com; @KamloopsFarmMkt Organic Farm, are famous for their “huge” heads () of lettuce. But arguably the most popular vendor “our MoTTo is Make iT, bake iT or titude of additional reasons to shop beyond the need to Know: Looking is Irene’s Bannock, operated by Janice Billy and grow it,” says Gisele Glover, market manager of fruit and veg, artisan cheeses and home-baked What's for more market fun? named for the booth’s founder, her late mother- the Kelowna Farmers & Crafters Market, one of goodies. in Head 50 km north along in-law. B.C.’s biggest al fresco shopping attractions. But But the market’s main motivation will al- Highway 16, turning left “They’ve been attending for at least 20 years— that doesn’t mean just anyone can roll-up and be ways be to trumpet the region’s uniquely rich season? on Tod Mountain Road, to they have a lineup until they sell out each day. a vendor. “All our producers have to come from bounty—which explains many of the 13 pop-up It becomes a tradition,” adds Grube-Cavers within our Armstrong to Summerland boundar- festivals studding its season-long calendar. Au- reach the resort town of May Sun Peaks and its small (Irene’s Bannock only attends a select number ies,” she adds. gust’s Corn Festival and October’s Apple Daze Apples, Asparagus, though lively farmers mar- of markets). And the community fully embraces Celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, the draw the crowds. But July’s Cherry Festival has Chives, Fiddleheads, Rad- ket (Sundays, June 28 to the event. Each year, Grube-Cavers is peppered ever-popular market—which runs twice weekly the best sideshow: the annual, laugh-a-minute ish, Rhubarb, Rosemary, September 6; sunpeaksre- with media requests for opening-day dates and during its April to mid-November summer Pit Spitting Contest. Sage, Spinach, Turnips. sort.com/farmers-market). info on new additions. The markets have become season and also includes a chill-busting indoor “A line is drawn in the pavement and whoever tourist draws too—organizers operate a booth winter version—can lure up to 170 vendors and spits their pit the furthest wins a Market Bucks June with info on area attractions, as well as maps to almost 10,000 shoppers on its sunniest peak gift certificate. The most fun is watching the Apples, Cauliflflf lower, Cherries, Chinese Veg- local food producers and other markets. In fact, a season days. young kids: they try so hard but it usually just etables, Chives, Cilantro, study on B.C.’s farmers markets by the University But that’s not surprising in a produce-loving dribbles out!” says Glover. Lettuce, Peas, Potatoes, of Northern B.C. revealed that 17 percent of Ka- Okanagan region long established as one of It’s a competition that clearly requires plenty Radish, Rhubarb, mloops market patrons were from out-of-town. B.C.’s most vibrant agricultural areas. of energy, which means an essential fuel-up at Rosemary, Sage, “It’s something that we’d like to grow—the area “Just over half our vendors are farmers,” says one of the market’s lip-smacking concessions. Greens, Spinach, Straw- has wonderful agriculture and [the market] helps Glover, adding that savvy customers know ex- From Family Gourmet Foods’ bulging breakfast berries, Thyme, Turnips. increase peoples’ knowledge of the local food actly when to bring extra shopping bags for the to the naughty chocolate or cream- system,” says Grube-Cavers. For the Kamloops market’s fresh-cropped asparagus, cherries and filled confections at Crepe Bistro’s mobile trailer, July Apricots, Basil, Beans, Farmers Market, the future is as bright as the apples. And while the arrival of lush peaches can there’s usually an alluring aroma calling your Beets, Blueberries, North Thompson sunshine—there were more easily trigger an epidemic of Kelowna-area pie- name here. “I always seem to find time for french Broccoli, Cabbage, new applications this year than last and it has baking, sweet grapes, cantaloupes and water- fries when I’m walking around the market— Carrots, Cauliflflf lower, become the premier place for many local produc- melons also help keep local fruit bowls full. even though I try not to!” explains Glover. Celery, Cherries, Chinese ers to sell their food. Alongside the pristine produce, the market’s Apart from the fries, does she have any final Vegetables, Chives, Cilantro, Cucumbers, “It’s really nice to see new agriculture spring- tented stalls indicate a strong commitment to tips for visiting shoppers? “If you really want Kale, Lettuce, Peas, Pep- ing up in the area, which is partly because of the arts and crafts. “Sims sells lovely jewelry and to get the best selection of produce, I suggest pers, Potatoes, Radish, support the market supplies and the outlet it Nooks’ handmade children’s clothing is also arriving by 8:00 a.m.—some of the most popular Raspberries, Rhubarb, provides,” says Grube-Cavers. “It’s very exciting very popular,” says Glover, adding that pottery, vendors are sold out by 11:00 a.m. Come early Rosemary, Sage, Salad to see that growth.” woodwork and handmade soaps provide a mul- and fill up your market bags.” Greens, Spinach, Straw- berries, Summer Squash, Swiss Chard, Tomatoes,

32 • BCm annelise grube-Cavers 3x Kerri-jo Thyme, Turnips. Taste of Summer

Vancouver has seven great farmers markets running throughout the summer, each with its own unique vibe and all under the Vancouver Farmers Markets banner. Check out their website at eatlocal.org for more information on times, locations, shopping tips and more.

© Kaishin Chu 2015

What's in season?

August Apples, Apricots, Basil, Beans, Beets, Blackber- ries, Blueberries, Broc- coli, Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflflf lower, Celery, Chi- nese Vegetables, Chives, Cilantro, Corn, Cucum- bers, Currants, Garlic, Kale, Lettuce, Melons, Onions (sweet), Peaches, Pears, Peppers, Plums, Potatoes, Radish, Rasp- berries, Rosemary, Sage, Salad Greens, Shallots, Spinach, Strawberries, Summer Squash, Swiss Chard, Tomatoes, Thyme, 34 • BCmTurnips.BCm• 34 Taste of peaches arrive,” says LaQuaglia, adding that some Vancouver farmers love pushing the boundaries of what we Summer think the province produces. That means vendors selling anything from B.C.- Farmers Markets grown kiwi, edamame and turmeric to locally- cultivated fava beans or wild-foraged nettles and By John Lee morels. And this summer—following provincial when opening Their firsT farMers liquor law changes—there’s a fully-stocked bar of market in B.C.’s biggest city in July 1995, nervous regional booze available. organizers didn’t know if they’d sell more than “Granville Island’s Artisan Sake Maker will Vancouver a bean or two. But day one lured a handful of be at several markets. We’ll also have B.C. wine, vendors and 500 curious shoppers—a seed Vancouver-made spirits and beer from Bomber that’s since sprouted into seven weekly summer Brewing and R&B Brewing. Our maximum is gatherings throughout the city, all under the three alcohol vendors per market and the idea is Where: Seven summer Vancouver Farmers Markets (VFM) banner. to show how you can pair these with our food.” locations: Kerrisdale, “Saturday’s Trout Lake Market is our biggest, Cheese will no doubt be a pairing favourite, with with around 55 vendors and 6,000 visitors on its popular producers Little Qualicum Cheeseworks, Kitsilano, Main Street Comox Station, Mount Pleasant, busiest days. But Kitsilano isn’t far behind,” says Salt Spring Island Cheese Company and Farm Trout Lake, West End, VFM operations manager Roberta LaQuaglia. House Natural Cheeses from Agassiz bringing Yaletown. It’s not all about large markets with big crowds, their curdtastic treasures to market. And for picnic though. “Smaller markets like Kerrisdale and planners, there will be plenty of bakery accompa- When: Most markets are Mount Pleasant are our hidden gems. They’re niments to consider. Saturday or Sunday, with Where: Comox Valley Exhibi- great for exploring neighbourhoods and meeting Purebread—with shops in Whistler and Vancou- Main Street Station on tion Grounds at 4839 Head- the locals,” she says, adding that VFM’s summer ver—has been a runway success at the city’s farm- Wednesday and Yaletown quarters Road, Courtenay, markets run from May or June into October. ers markets in recent years, with giddy queues on Thursday. VFM’s April to October; Native Son’s Like a punnet of multi-hued heirloom to- forming as soon as its aromatic walnut raisin website has times and Hall in Downtown Courtenay, matoes, each market has a distinct flavour. and lavender rosemary loaves are unpacked. But locations. October to April. Wednesdays Yaletown’s Thursday version attracts down- while Purebread’s secret is out, LaQuaglia points on England Avenue in down- For More info: town workers; the West End’s Saturday chapter to what may be the markets’ next big bakery star. Comox Valley Farmers Market town Courtenay, from July 8 to eatlocal.org sells the most baked and prepared goods; and “Beyond Bread has a great assortment of rustic By Desiree Miller September 2. need to Know: Weekly Sunday in Kits is a walk-through cornucopia of artisan breads—they’re definitely one to look out When: Saturday market, year winter markets are also organic produce. for this year.” wiTh hundreds of farMs surround- ment—people are becoming more aware and round 9:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m.; held at Riley Park (Satur- Organics are part of an ever-changing menu of They’re not the only vendor worth pinpointing ing the small town of Comox, the Comox Valley want to support Vancouver Island farmers.” Wednesday market, 9:00 a.m. days) and Hastings Park luscious B.C. fruits and vegetables dominating on VFM’s website market maps. This summer sees Farmers Market has it good. Situated on the east With a huge selection to browse, taste and to 12:30 p.m. (Sundays). each market. “Early season is all about fresh- first-timers selling everything from hand-pressed coast of Vancouver Island, an area known as an indulge, the event makes for a pleasurable picked greens. And there’s always a scramble almond milk to vegan seed and nut cheeses. And agricultural hot spot, this market features an shopping experience. “We have a wide range of For More info: when the strawberries, blueberries, cherries and if you’re still hungry, Vancouver food trucks like abundance of gorgeous crops cultivated from produce, products and every kind of meat you www.cvfm.ca Le Tigre, Kaboom Box and farms and producers in the Comox and Strath- can imagine,” says Brown, naming rabbit and need to Know: The market Creperie La Boheme—plus a cona districts. water buffalo as two of the more obscure variet- runs rain or shine, free parking busy busker line-up—add to Since its inception in 1992, the market remains ies. “We also feature unique processed foods like at all locations, market money is the markets’ festival feel. unique with no crafts sold—only food and homemade corn tortillas, hemp frozen desserts available for purchase via debit With 450,000 annual shop- agricultural products that are grown or made by and spirits made from honey.” or credit on site in case you pers, yearly vendor sales the person selling it. “The Comox Valley Farmers But that doesn’t even scratch the surface. don’t have cash. of $8.17 million and two Market was started by farmers and is driven by More than 40 different farmers offer fresh fare, additional winter markets farmers,” says executive director Vickey Brown. bakers serve up homemade cookies, granolas that help producers sustain “All in an effort to stay true to our original intent and breads, artisan cheese and wine makers sell themselves year-round, which is to deliver local food to local hands.” their goods and butchers sell quality meats, fish VFM—celebrating its 20th And that they do. During peak season their and . This is what keeps loyal custom- What's anniversary this summer— Saturday market, which is located on the Exhibi- ers returning for their weekly grocery shop. As in has thrived since its tentative tion Grounds in Courtenay, reaches capacity at well, the market boasts producers that focus on early days. But there’s always 70 vendors and has a waiting list of eager busi- special diet goods such as paleo, gluten-free and season? room for more green shoots. nesses who would love to get in. Local musicians dairy-free products. “We still take neighbour- come down and play for the crowds, adding Thanks to passionate board members, dedi- October hood requests for new entertainment to the feel-good atmosphere. They cated vendors and supportive communities Apples, Beans, Beets, markets and we’re always in- also run a mid-week summer market in down- who make the market a continuous success, this Blackberries, Broc- terested in setting up where town Courtenay giving residents more opportu- year, the B.C. Association of Farmers Markets coli, Brussels Sprouts, there’s a good location and nity to buy local. awarded the Comox Valley Farmers Market the Cabbage, Carrots, a groundswell of support,” On average, the market will host around 1,500 Large Market of the Year award. While this title Cauliflflf lower, Celery, Chives, Cilantro, Corn, says LaQuaglia. “But our visitors from all over the valley. As the largest is a true honour, the ongoing goal is to spread Cranberries, Garlic, Kale, mission hasn’t changed of its kind in the area, the Comox Valley Farm- outward and reach more people. “Because we Lettuce, Leeks, Onions over the years: we’re still ers Market has become a sought after grocery can’t make this one market bigger, we’ll have (sweet), Onions (cooking), committed to being a force destination. “On a sunny Saturday during peak, to open more markets in more communities to Pears, Peppers, Pota- for healthy local farms and it’s not uncommon to have a crowd of 3,000,” says spread the love of fresh whole food through the toes, Pumpkins, Radishes, Rosemary, Sage, Salad people.” Brown. “It’s a reflection of the local food move- valley,” says Brown. Greens, Swiss Chard, Tomatoes, Thyme, Turnips, Winter Squash. 36 • BCm © Kaishin Chu 2015 bill jorgensen BCm• 37 Taste of By Desiree Miller Summer Cedar Farmers Market

Cedar

Where: On the grassy field in front of the Crow & Gate Pub at 2313 Yellow Point Road, Cedar. When: From Mother’s day to the last Sunday in October; 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. For More info: cedarfarmersmarket.org need to Know: Room for over 250 cars. Make sure to stop for a pint at the world- renowned Crow & Gate Pub nearby, it’s one of the best pubs you’ll find anywhere.

if having a farMers MarkeT With 3,000 to 4,000 people coming through on a What's located on a grassy field in front of an iconic Sunday from as far south as Victoria and as far in English pub isn’t enough of an enticer, let’s take north as the Comox Valley, Cedar Farmers Mar- season? it one step further. Located in central Vancouver ket is a supermarket in its own right. “We will Island, just south of Nanaimo, and featuring see people come in with five or more reusable over 80 full-time vendors, international food shopping bags and load up on sacks of carrots, September carts and freshly roasted coffee, this market potatoes, chicken and eggs,” says Street. “They Apples, Basil, Beans, Beets, Blackberries, makes for a tasty day out. are actually doing their grocery shopping for Broccoli, Cabbage, Car- “It’s more than just meat and veggies,” says the week.” rots, Cauliflflf lower, Celery, James Street, marketing, advertising and com- Many of the clientele come back week after Chinese Vegetables, Chives, munications director at Cedar Farmers Market. week, making Cedar a destination. These return Cilantro, Corn, Cucumbers, “We have a diverse group of goods to experi- customers are highly coveted by vendors and Currants, Garlic, Kale, Lettuce, Leeks, Melons, ence, which makes for an entertaining day out.” offer a real value to their business. “Once our Onions (sweet), Onions For 17 years now, the Cedar Farmers Market vendors get in they want to stay in,” says Street. (cooking), Pears, Pep- has focused on being a make it, bake it and “This means an abundant selection which is pers, Plums, Potatoes, grow it market. Keeping with the B.C. Associa- good for everyone.” Pumpkins, Radish, Rasp- tion of Farmers Market guidelines of 30 percent Street says that they believe in the idea of food berries, Rosemary, Sage, Salad Greens, Shallots, non-food products including craftspeople, tourism as a great way to encourage people to Spinach, Strawberries, woodworkers, pottery and potted plants and come, hang out and try high quality food. From Swiss Chard, Tomatoes, the remaining 70 percent being locally grown or there, the flavour will bring them back. “I have Available exclusively at : Thyme, Turnips, Winter produced food. seen people buy caseloads of fresh strawberries Squash. Street, a vendor himself, sells at a at $6 a basket,” says Street. “It’s not because they number of different markets in the region but are cheaper than the grocery store, because November favours Cedar’s market for the family feel and they aren’t. It’s because they are the most amaz- Apples, Brussels young family entrepreneurs it features. “My ing tasting strawberries they’ve ever had.” And Sprouts, Cabbage, Car- kids and wife come with me to sell sausages— this is the reason people are changing how and rots, Cauliflflf lower, Gar- lic, Leeks, Onions (cook- we are all a part of it,” says Street. “The vendors where they shop for food. ing), Pears, Rosemary, help one another with setting up and spread- Sage, Thyme, Turnips, ing the word.” He believes the overwhelming Winter Squash. support could stem from the fact that many of the original vendors remain at the core of the For more Info December market, rather than seeing a lot of turnover. B.C. Association of Farmers Markets Apples, Brussels And the shoppers are serious about their food. bcfarmersmarket.org Sprouts, Cabbage, Garlic, Pears, Rosemary, Sage, 38Turnips, • BCm Winter Squash. tourisM nanaiMo / yeosMith PhotograPhy The Moveable Feast By Jane Zatylny Food trucks and an island lifestyle go hand in hand, here are some of the best mobile eateries in the Gulf Islands (and one in Tofif ino)

Plus Seven great food trucks from the rest of B.C. By John Lee

Patricia SimS Taste of recognized as one of North America’s top cities, the trend certainly Summer didn’t start here. Food experts credit the Kogi Korean BBQ food truck in with kicking off the craze in the Gulf U.S. back in 2008, though Mexican trucks had been on that city’s streets for iSlandS' decades. Another trend set by Kogi was its use of Twitter. Lacking a fixed loca- tion, its owners announced the truck’s whereabouts via Twitter, influencing the heavy reliance on social media market- ing by food trucks owners that contin- Best ues today. ood Trucks North of the border in B.C., a Tofino F startup may have bragging rights as the first B.C. gourmet food truck. SoBo, the When I Was a kId, a food truck surf town’s celebrated seafood restau- was whereW you went to get a cone of rant, got its start in a purple catering hot, salty , a steamed truck in 2003. Despite its tiny kitchen Tacofino tofino, Victoria, or a soft vanilla ice cream cone. A food and humble parking lot location, SoBo Vancouver truck was also a mobile canteen that ar- (short for “sophisticated bohemian”) What: An orange and chrome food rived at construction sites during lunch was named one of the top 10 best new truck selling Baja-inspired hour, blowing its horn before opening Canadian restaurants in Canada by En and more. Notable design detail: the up to serve pre-made and Route magazine in its first year of opera- painting of the Virgin de Guadelupe, mediocre coffee. One thing was for sure: tion. A few years later, owners Lisa and holding a taco. a food truck was not where you went for Artie Ahier secured a building in the Where: 1184 Pacific Rim Highway, a fine meal. heart of Tofino, where SoBo remains Tofino (in the “Live to Surf” complex) Over the past five years, all that has today. Kaeli Robinsong and Jason Suss- contact: 250-726-8288, changed. Gourmet food trucks have man opened their first Tacofino food tacofino.com rolled into virtually every community, truck in the same location six years ago, Hours: 11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., town and city in British Columbia. just as mobile eateries were beginning 7 Days Per Week When the Food Network television to take off in Vancouver. Seating: Takeout. Above: Tacofino’s show The Great Food Truck Race debuted “We were working seasonally at the on the menu: Mexican beach food: in 2010 and the Canadian reality show time in tree planting camps in northern food trucks have been so succesful Fish tacos, , tortilla soup, tuna Eat St. premiered in 2011, street ven- B.C. and Alberta,” remembers Robin- they’ve expanded “ta-takos” and local seasonal specials dors became cool entrepreneurs on the song. “Jason as a tree planter and I was a to Victoria and such as roasted squash tacos, Baja- frontlines of the local food movement. camp cook.” The pair travelled to Mexico Vancouver. Below: style trap-caught spot prawn tacos Vancouver started licensing street in the winter to surf, and wanted to Try their famous and wild mushroom quesadillas. fish tacos. food vending in 2010, with a goal of put down roots somewhere where they Best Bet: Hands-down, the fish ta- focusing on nutritious foods that rep- could live, work and surf full-time. “To- cos. Best north of Baja. Tempura-style resent the cultural diversity of Van- fino had everything we wanted.” lingcod, topped with salsa fresca, couver. Today, more than 100 licensed When the global economic downturn Shelley Okepnak, owner of the Flying may feel more like a restaurant than chipotle mayo and shredded cabbage specialty food trucks line city streets. hit in 2008, many experienced chefs Black Dog Café on Galiano Island, gave its curbside counterpart in a city. For in a soft taco shell. And, while decadent treats are still found themselves out of work, another up a career as a line cook in Vancouver this reason, even if the food truck-craze Good to Know: No time to get on some menus, many mobile eater- factor that led to the popularity of food to open her popular mobile eatery on wanes in urban areas—as it has in the to Tofino? No worries. Surf’s up for ies are choosing to serve up healthier trucks across North America. Starting Galiano Island in 2008. U.S.—chances are that mobile eateries Tacofino in Vancouver and Victoria, street eats, made from locally sourced, a food truck is a lower risk investment “Running a food truck gives me the in smaller communities will endure. in food trucks as well as permanent sustainable ingredients. than opening a restaurant, but still opportunity to become a self-employed Regardless of where a food truck is locations. When I visit Vancouver, the thought of allows the chef/owner to be entrepre- business owner and purveyor of food parked, though, the close interaction the food trucks sitting out there on the neurial. “We were able to buy our truck without needing a huge investment,” between chef and customer is similar, The STand street makes my mouth water by 11:00 and open with our tree planting money,” she says. “I get to meet and nurture says Kaeli Robinsong. And that may be Pender island a.m. At noon, I head outside to choose says Robinsong. new customers, who have become great one of the very best things about eating What: Old-school diner-style food in my lunch from curries, tacos, steamed As was the case with SoBo, the Tofino friends.” a meal from a food truck—besides the a Winnebago trailer-turned-food truck. pork buns, , El Salvadoran papu- food truck was an incubator for Taco- Local business is also very impor- fact that the fare is so much more inven- Where: 1371 Otter Bay Road, Pender sas, and more. Though frequent- fino’s business model, which has grown tant for Wild Thyme Coffee House, tive today than it was when I as a kid. Island (at the ferry terminal). ed by tourists and office workers alike, to include food trucks in Vancouver and a converted double-decker bus/café “It feels like you are giving your contact: 250-629-3292, each truck has a following, and each has brick-and-mortar restaurants in both on Saturna Island. “It’s the key to our customers more than just a meal—it’s a facebook.com/thestandonpender its own distinct personality. “It’s like a Vancouver and Victoria. survival,” explains owner Aleah John- food experience,” explains Robinsong. Hours: 6:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m., smorgasbord on wheels,” one woman In smaller communities like Tofino son. “Understanding each customer, Dan Davies, owner of The Stand on Monday to Friday, 7:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Saturday, 7:00 a.m. to 7:15 p.m. said to me recently as I waited in line and throughout the Gulf Islands, mo- remembering their names, orders and Pender Island, agrees: “The best part for Sunday. (Get there early, or call ahead, with her for a gourmet vegan bile eateries are a sustainable way for habits is critical.” us is the interactivity with people from as all food is made to order.) at Loving Hut. I couldn’t agree more. chefs to bring new fine dining choices With more room for tables and chairs, here and abroad… and being part of Seating: Outside tables seat about While Vancouver is consistently to appreciative smaller populations. a food truck in a small community their fond summer memories.” 20, or go back to your vehicle in

42 • BCm tacofino 2X BCm• 43 Taste The Le Tigre food of truck can be found flyinG Black doG local secret, and tables fill up all over Metro to a cheeky art form, the innovative MoBile eaTery quickly with regulars. Vancouver and line-up here includes chunky beet Summer offers an exciting Galiano island fries, egg-topped Kick Ass Rice bowls take on modern What: Gourmet food truck special- Wild ThyMe asian . (add chicken or pork belly for the full izing in fresh, innovative cuisine. effect) and the ever-changing Miso the ferry lineup. coffee houSe Where: 97 Georgeson Bay Road, Saturna island Awesome: a generously-heaped on the menu: Chicken, beef, Galiano Island (across the road from What: A converted 1963 salad tossed with miso dressing that salmon, oyster and halibut burgers, the DayStar Market). double-decker Leyland bus, offering changes weekly depending on the breakfast sandwiches, hot dogs, contact: facebook.com/flying- gourmet coffee and fresh, locally fresh ingredients sourced from local vegetarian choices, french fries and blackdog sourced foods. markets. onion rings, ice cream and shakes, Hours: Lunch only, 11:30 a.m. to Where: 109 East Point Road, Best Bet: The top-selling Fricken coffee. 2:30 p.m., Wednesday to Saturday. Saturna Island (two minutes from Chicken is an understandably addic- Best Bet: The Hummer double Seating: Rustic covered dining at the ferry terminal). tive menu mainstay: crispy-coated with homemade beef outside tables and chairs for about contact: 250-539-5589, made with chilies, garlic patties and all the fixings. You’ll wildthymecoffeehouse.com and shallots and served with Thai- need both hands to hold it, lots of 16. Hours: style nam jin sauce. napkins and maybe even a fork and on the menu: Artful, house-made 5:45 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Good to Know: Le Tigre is aiming knife. burritos, bowls, , sandwiches, Monday to Friday, 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 to open an izakaya-style restaurant Good to know: A beloved Pender veggie burgers, bison burgers, p.m., Saturday and Sunday. on the Chinatown side of Vancouver’s soups, and sweet treats. Seating: About 16 inside the fixture for 22 years. Father/son own- Main Street this summer. They’re Best Bet: You don’t have to be a bus on its upper level, another 20 ers Dan and Josh Davies took over planning to park their food truck vegetarian to fall for the Roasted outside. the food truck last year from the outside on most evenings. previous owners. Vegetable Nut Burger. Served with on the menu: Local farm-fresh avocado, cheddar cheese, roast sandwiches and wraps, quiche, shallot mayo, red onion and pickle. full espresso bar, pies and other BiTe freSh food Ethos Mediterranian Food nelson Good to Know: Get there early: desserts. The menu changes often, has 30 years of history on What: A yellow Chevrolet food truck Saltspring Island. the Flying Black Dog is a well-kept based on fresh local produce. Best Bet: The daily special. Sure on Nelson’s historic Baker Street, bet: A slice of freshly baked pie serving a “modern mountain menu” and a latte. Coffee is fair trade and of organic-focused wraps, hot dogs roasted in Victoria by Yoka’s Coffee, and gourmet burgers. Notable design Tea & Honey. detail: an abundance of stainless steel Good to Know: Wild Thyme has checker plate trim recalls the golden been a community-supported busi- age of North American diners. Where: 750 Baker Street, Nelson. ness since it opened in 2012, with wrapped in a fresh pita with hum- home for $17. contact: 250-551-2483, locals pitching in to paint the bus, mus, veggies, pickled turnips and a Good to Know: Co-owner bitetruck.com replace the windows and of course, delicious tahini sauce. Try it with the Suzanne Gay’s family operated a Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m., frequent the café. Owner Aleah marinated eggplant. Greek food stall 30 years ago from Mainland’S Monday to Friday, 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 Johnson recently started a crowd- Good to know: Owner/chef Alex an Airstream trailer at Saltspring p.m. Saturday. funding campaign to buy the land Lyons also designs funky, fabulous Island’s Saturday Market. Seating: Takeout—there’s a park the bus sits on, and hopes to one sterling silver jewellery. nearby. day build a B&B alongside the bus. el loco Taco on the menu: Grade A, hormone- eThoS MediTerra- Saltspring island free burgers (veggie versions and al’S GourMeT nean food What: Mexican food truck. Best gluten-free buns also available) plus falafel ‘n frieS Saltspring island Where: Fulford-Ganges Road, in Tru wraps from West Coast salmon to Saltspring island d c What: k Greek food truck. o Ganges, Saltspring Island (in front Fo s mango curry chicken. Need fries What: Little red wooden food truck Where: New location in Ganges, of the marina). with your cheese dog? Add specializing in falafel, and Saltspring Island, at 133 Hereford contact: 250-221-0915 Great food trucks aren'’t limited to the the patriotic Great Canadian : poutine. Avenue at the corner of Jackson Hours: 11:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m., islands. Here are seven of our favourites skin-on fries topped with bacon, Where: 151 Rainbow Road, Street. Monday to Saturday, 11:00 a.m. to 6 maple syrup, house-made gravy and Saltspring Island. contact: 250-221-1214, from the rest of B.C. a generous smattering of cheese p.m., Sunday. contact: 250-538-7573, ethosfoodtruck.com curds from Quebec. Seating: Tables and chairs for alsgourmetfalafel.com Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Best Bet: The irresistible Luxe eight to 10 diners. Hours: 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Seating: Tables and chairs can Burger is everything factory-made on the menu: Authentic Mexican Monday to Friday, 10:00 a.m. to accommodate about 14 people. Where: Various Metro Vancouver will never be. A double- tacos, burritos, tortilla soup, daily le TiGre 4:00 p.m Saturday. on the menu: Classic pita wraps cream Brie cheeseburger teamed with metro Vancouver locations—follow them on Twitter (@ Seating: Takeout. (gyros, chicken , Greek specials, Mexican soft drinks and bacon, tomato, lettuce, red onions What: An eye-popping yellow and LeTigreTruck) for daily updates. on the menu: Falafel, served meatball, and tofu), full Greek hot sauces. and garlic aioli. Loosen your belt and orange-striped truck serving finger- contact: 604.613.6963, many ways, chicken kebabs, egg- dinners with rice, salad and herbed Best Bet: Carne asada tacos, with dive right in—especially if you’ve licking modern Asian street food letigrecuisine.ca plant salad, veggie pita, hummus potatoes, mezethes (sides) like lime pickled onions, shredded cab- added a pile of house-made fries. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., and chips, pita chips, yam fries, tzatziki, Greek salad and organic rice bage, salsa, and hot sauce on warm, in and around Vancouver. Notable Good to Know: Time your visit for Monday to Friday, plus local farmers poutine—including a “supreme” , baklava. Daily specials, gluten- white corn tortillas, washed down design detail: echoing vintage propa- June 26, July 24 or August 21 when version with red onion, candied free options and group orders. with a lime Jarritos. ganda posters, the truck’s kaleido- markets and night markets on sum- Bite helps transform Baker Street jalapenos and chipotle mayo. Best Bet: The phyllo pastry spin- Good to Know: Won the scopic paintwork includes proudly mer weekends. into MarketFest, an evening al fresco Best bet: The falafel! Three ach pie, served every Friday. Buy a Saltspring Island Chamber of Com- raised arms wielding chopsticks and Seating: Takeout. party of artsy stalls, live music and perfectly cooked organic falafel balls slice for $4, or an entire pie to take merce New Business Award in 2014. cooking utensils. on the menu: Elevating truck food community good times.

44 • BCm etHoS mediterranean food 2X nicole franKe BCm• 45 Taste of Summer

haMMer’S houSe of hoG oliver What: A wood-sided shack on wheels with a red tin roof, the heady aromas from this authentic southern Left and Right: The Locovore “low and slow” barbecue truck easily Food Truck in Squamish offers override the GPS systems of passing farm-to-table ingredients in highway motorists. Notable design hearty and sandwiches. detail: its timber trim was recycled from an old Ontario barn. with crisp house slaw. The best part? detail: built from scratch, the nifty Where: 6018 Main Street, Oliver Choosing which of the four own-made 1.8-metre-long cart includes its own (across from Chevron). sauces to slather it with—try the Bluetooth music system. contact: 250-535-3700, tangy Alabama white sauce (mayon- Where: 1620 Dixon Avenue, houseofhog.ca naise, black pepper and a dash of Kelowna. Hours: 11:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., vinegar). contact: 778-363-2433, Tuesday to Sunday (closed some Good to Know: Thursday is brisket culinaryink.com Tuesdays). day, which means fuelling-up the old Hours: 7:00 a.m. to 9:30 a.m., Seating: Takeout—some picnic smokers with white oak and cooking table perches, plus spots on the grass 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m., 5:00 p.m. to the truck’s butter-soft beef for up to under the fruit trees. 7:00 p.m., Monday to Friday; 11:00 16 hours. Arrive early and order as on the menu: Utilizing a heap of a.m. to 2:00 p.m., Saturday;10:00 much as you can carry. hickory wood and two hardworking a.m. to 2:00 p.m., Sunday. smokers out the back, Hammer’s car- Seating: Takeout. nivorous roster includes slow-cooked, culinary ink on the menu: A revolving melt-in-your-mouth rib tips and spicy Kelowna roster drawn from eight staple downtown wine bar was added to the watering mélange of pork belly, crisp baked beans that have their own loyal What: A bicycle-hybrid dishes—each with clever fusion into the chipotle mac ‘n’ cheese, Seating: In the adjacent café (where faT duck MoBile mix that the problem of locals queu- scallions, Kung Pao mayo and duck- local following. focused on “socially conscious twists—including pulled pork and piled high with pulled pork and organic coffee is also served). eaTery ing in the winter snow was solved. confit-cooked rice, it’s topped with a Best Bet: The bulging pulled pork comfort food,” including Indian kimchi subs and butter wrapped in a chewy garlic . on the menu: Favouring top- Vancouver Now, orders are prepared in the truck perfectly gooey sunny-side-up egg. sandwich—its super-soft meat and Vietnamese-influenced naan chicken naan cones served with Best Bet: Go for the spicy taco notch B.C. farm ingredients such as What: This Vancouver-based blue Pemberton Meadows beef and Two and served inside. Notable design Good to Know: You can keep tabs cooked for up to 12 hours—is served bread taco cones and bulging sub- cumin and mint coleslaw. Looking : succulent, slow-roasted and white-painted former newspaper Rivers chorizo sausage, Locavore’s detail: the truck’s eye-catching all-pink on the latest location of Fat Duck— on locally made buns and topped style sandwiches. Notable design for the ultimate comfort grub? Dive pork in a pineapple, oregano and delivery truck takes a “slow food chili-infused sauce, sprinkled with entrée-sized salads include roasted paintjob. served fast” approach, with a menu and other local trucks—via the handy feta, onion and cilantro and wrapped cauliflower and brown rice quinoa Where: 107 2nd Street East, of clever fusion dishes speckled with Street Food App (streetfoodapp.com/ Bite Fresh Food in Nelson in a pillowy naan-bread cone. Still varieties. Popular made-to-order Revelstoke. local and international influences. No- Vancouver). serves these mountain folks peckish? It’s served with a side of sandwiches include the bacon, egg, contact: 250-837-8535, table design detail: the truck’s striking a modern mountain menu. garlic butter popcorn. cheese (and bacon jam) Farmhand thetacoclub.ca logo combines a waddling bird with Good to Know: Culinary Ink aims as well as the arugula-lined rotisserie Hours: 11:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. daily. attendant white maple leaves. to donate 10 percent of its profits to pork Porchetta baguette. Seating: In the bar. Where: Typically the corner of Howe charity. Best Bet: The spice-tastic, on the menu: A greatest hits Street and West Cordova Street in Street food app Vietnamese-style Banh Mi baguette roster of Mexican classics, prepared downtown Vancouver. Check Twitter (streetfoodapp.com) sandwich combines succulent with fusion tweaks and as many locavore (@fatducktruck) for location updates. keeps track of rotisserie chicken or pork loin with locally-sourced ingredients as pos- contact: 604-831-0453, food Truck which food lashings of cilantro, jalapenos and sible (these guys are farmers market fatduckmobileeatery.ca trucks are open Squamish daikon pickles. Add a side order of devotees). Consider the pork, beef or Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:00 p.m., at any given What: A huge, white-painted catering herb-roasted potatoes and you’ll have chicken tacos, burritos, or Monday to Friday, plus weekend time in Van-- rig focused on fresh, farm-to-table the day’s main meal. —and add some special Taco markets and events. couver and ingredients and a menu of hearty Good to Know: Locavore’s kale, Club hot sauce to the mix. Seating: Takeout. Victoria. salads and sandwiches, Locavore is mushroom and quinoa veggie burger Best Bet: The mouthwatering on the menu: Classic dishes permanently parked outside its bricks- isn’t just for meat-free diners: it’s grilled whitefish tacos are made with reinvented, including duck confit and-mortar sister café. Notable design been adapted by some locals into the fresh, house-made pear salsa—with Philly-style ciabatta bun sandwiches detail: at 13.5 metres long, this may off-menu Hypocrite Burger—com- fruit from the Okanagan. Add a Latin- (parmesan mayo, Swiss cheese and be B.C.’s biggest food truck. plete with bacon. themed cocktail or a glass of own- pickled red onions included) and the Where: 1861 Mamquam Road, made ginger beer and you’ll have the popular Hawaiian Hog (bacon and Squamish (outside the Cloudburst The Taco cluB perfect sunny-day lunch. shredded braised pork slathered with DISCLAIMER: Food trucks have Café). revelstoke Good to Know: DJ nights were charred pineapple and fennel salsa wheels! While every effort was made contact: 604-898-1969, What: It took four months to convert staged inside last winter but the plan served on a brioche bun). to bring you the most accurate locavorefoodtruck.ca a 1996 Grumman truck into Revel- this summer is to build a 50-seat Best Bet: The Dirty Rice Bowl keeps information in this article, some Hours: 11:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m., stoke’s favourite Mexican-flavoured patio so diners can catch some rays downtown’s office-worker clientele food trucks may have rolled to new Wednesday to Sunday. pit stop. But it wasn’t until a disused while scoffing their tacos. well fueled for the afternoon. A mouth- locations since press time.

46 • BCm Bite freSH food 2X nicole franKe BCm• 47 BeerCraft B.C.

For lovers of f ine ales and lagers, British Columbia has never been better. Viva la Craft Beer Revolution!

Joe ByWiebe

Matt schMitz Taste of honestly always thought it would be this big or bigger. Being on the ground all the Summer time, I could see it happen one beer at a time, one person at a time. There was never a doubt in my mind that we would be where we are today.”

b.c. bEEr HiStory Before looking at where B.C.’s craft beer industry is today, it’s important to take a look at where it came from. For that, we have to go all the E way back to 1980. Back then, if you were EvEry SEptEmbEr SincE 1993, beer drinking beer in B.C., there were three lovers have converged in Victoria, British national breweries you could choose from: Columbia for the Great Canadian Beer Carling O’Keefe, Labatt and Molson. In Festival. Last September, the two-day reality, there was no true competition event hosted more than 8,500 thirsty beer between them. They all charged the same fans who had the opportunity to choose price, and when brewery workers went from more than 250 beers from 78 brewer- on strike—as they did a few times in the ies—including 15 B.C. craft breweries that 1970s—all the breweries would shut down were not even open just one year earlier. in unison. To put that into context, there weren’t John Mitchell, the manager of the even 15 breweries in existence in B.C. Troller Ale House in Horseshoe Bay, was when the GCBF began in 1993. Gerry “so incensed” by this situation that he Hieter, who co-founded the festival with decided to build his own brewery. After John Rowling and has produced it ever reading an article on home brewing in since, says the inaugural event featured Harrowsmith magazine, he contacted 70 different beers from 23 breweries from the author, Frank Appleton, and asked Canada and the Pacific Northwest. Hieter, him to help build it. Appleton, who had who had previously been involved with previously worked at Carling O’Keefe in starting up Whistler Brewing and Light- Vancouver, but had left because of the house Brewing, has been watching B.C.’s inferior quality of the beer, agreed. craft beer industry grow from its nascent Together, they cobbled together dairy beginnings in the 1980s. equipment to build the Horseshoe Bay And grow it certainly has: Today there Brewery, Canada’s first “microbrewery,” are nearly 100 craft breweries in B.C., which is the term the government used to spread throughout the province from To- differentiate it from the big national brew- fino on the west coast of Vancouver Island eries for taxation purposes. The brewery to Fernie, near the Alberta border, and produced one beer only, a British-style from Victoria all the way north to Terrace. mild ale called Bay Ale. Mitchell says the When Hieter started the GCBF, he brewery could produce 30 kegs per week, encountered lots of scepticism about but even though the Troller Ale House the future of the industry, but he says he had only managed to sell about two kegs 1984; bought by Molson-Coors in 2009), Company opened in 1991, and the Okana- Crowds like ing more significantly up their games in response. Eventually, is not at all surprised by the growth. “I of Carling O’Keefe per day before the Vancouver Island Brewery (established as gan, where Tin Whistle Co. and Tree Brew- this one at with artisanal produc- these “bottle shops” created a secondary ’ brewery opened, it had no trouble selling Island Pacific Brewing in 1984; renamed ing opened in the mid-1990s. Burnaby s Dag- ers, the local food move- network where smaller breweries could eraad Brewing five kegs of Bay Ale, every day, six days in 1992), Okanagan Spring Brewery Ltd. are a common ment, and creative, artis- sell their products without needing to per week. Others soon took notice. (established 1985; bought by Sleeman in sight in tasting tic, community-minded meet the high volume requirements of the Mitchell teamed up with architect Paul 1996), Shaftebury Brewing Company (1987 rooms across people in a much more government store network. Today, more Hadfield to build Spinnakers in Victo- to 1999) and Whistler Brewing Company tHE birtH of craft bEEr By the province. effective way. than half of B.C.’s craft breweries don’t ria, which was Canada’s first brewpub (established 1989; went through various 2000, there were 25 microbreweries or Another important bother trying to obtain general listings for when it opened in 1984, and later helped ownership changes beginning in 1999 brewpubs in B.C., still mostly centred in change was the advent of craft beer- their products in the government store design Howe Sound Brewing Company before returning to Whistler in 2009). the Lower Mainland and on Vancouver focused private liquor stores. When the system—because they don’t need to. in Squamish in 1996. Appleton consulted In the 1990s, the phenomenon became Island. The 2000s were a period of gradual B.C. government first allowed “cold beer Also important was the arrival of the on a string of breweries and brewpubs relatively well-known and popular, es- growth, but several important things hap- and wine stores” in the 1990s, they gener- “taphouse,” a pub or restaurant that offers throughout the Pacific Northwest, includ- pecially in the urban southwest corner of pened in that decade that paved the way ally stocked the same merchandise as was a wide array of craft beer on tap—some- ing Swans Brewpub in Victoria, Yaletown the province. Beer lovers could feel fairly for what was to come. First of all, and most available at government-run stores, but times 50 or more taps—which promotes Brewing Company in Vancouver and certain that asking for a “microbrew” from importantly, was a significant rebrand- in the 2000s some began selling specialty variety and experimentation among Deschutes Brewery in Bend, Oregon. a server at a pub or restaurant in Victoria ing that amounted to a simple change in beers from Belgium and Germany and consumers and encourages brewers to The microbrewery movement expanded or Vancouver wouldn’t result in a blank vocabulary: “craft beer” replaced “micro- craft beer from south of the border. These collegially compete with one another to across British Columbia, thanks to early stare. There were other pockets of interest brewing.” Instead of a bureaucratic term new products opened consumers’ minds come up with new styles and improve on expansion-minded pioneers such as elsewhere in the province, too, such as the that means “small beer,” craft beer carries and palates to greater possibilities and established brands. B.C.’s original tap- Granville Island Brewing (established Kootenays, where Nelson Brewing much more meaning and value, connect- challenged B.C. craft breweries to step house was the Alibi Room in

50 • BCm Dustan sept 2X BCm• 51 Taste of

their local communities or even just Brewing Company in 2013. Given the Summer their neighbourhoods. When Steel & scale of travel to the nearest urban cen- Oak Brewing Company opened in New tres—three-and-a-half hours to either Westminster last year, it found a group of Kamloops or Prince George—distribut- than 100—in other words, doubling the local beer lovers ready and waiting, many ing beer throughout the north or down number of craft breweries in B.C. in less of them people who had moved out from to the Lower Mainland was simply not than three years. In terms of overall beer Vancouver in search of more affordable feasible. But with a population of only consumption, the big breweries still domi- housing; the brewery’s tasting room has about 1,000 residents, and a fairly lim- nate the marketplace, but craft beer has become a community hub despite its ited local economy, would Three Ranges grown from a share of about six per cent less-than-ideal location. The same can be able to sell enough beer to make of the beer produced in B.C. in 2008 to be said for Burnaby’s Dageraad Brewing, ends meet? more than 20 per cent at the end of 2014. Delta’s Four Winds Brewing Company The answer was definitely and This growth does not seem to be slowing and Saanichton’s Category 12 Brewing, resoundingly yes. “We expanded our ca- down, and a glance south of the border all of which enjoy brisk business in their pacity twice in the first 17 months,” Lewis at similar markets in Washington and tasting rooms despite locations in nonde- explains. “All last summer I sold out of Oregon, where consumption rates of craft script industrial parks. beer, and even last winter, if I’d pushed beer is twice what it is here, shows that Much of this can for new sales, I could have sold out if I there is potential for much more expan- The craft beer boom is be traced back to the wanted to. We are on the hunt right now sion still to come. happening provincial government’s for a semi-automated canner, because Back at the Great Canadian Beer province wide early 2014 announce- based on the capacity we can now pro- Festival, Gerry Hieter is working on his in communities ment allowing brew- duce we won’t be able to keep up with succession plan. He has been running the big and small. eries to open on-site [manual] packaging this summer.” festival for 23 years now and envisions it Fernie Brewing in southeast tasting lounges where Lewis says he often turns down re- continuing for that many years or more B.C. is just one they can serve beer quests from liquor stores in the Lower in the future, so it is time to start “turning example. by the glass as well as Mainland that want to sell his beer, but over the reins” to the next generation. fill growlers. This new that was never his intent anyway. Rather, “I see the industry doubling in size,” he model has been a huge success in Van- he will continue to support his region, says, and given his track record pre- couver, where clusters of small breweries from Kamloops to Prince George, and dicting the current boom, who is going with tasting lounges have formed along perhaps over to Jasper if he can find a to argue with him? Viva la Craft Beer Main Street; around Clark Drive and distributor in Alberta. Revolution! Adanac Street; and near Victoria Avenue and Powell Street. It has also proven to be an ideal model for breweries opening in smaller communities such as Courtenay, WHat’S nExt? Another 15 to 20 brew- For more Information Powell River, Port Moody and Gibsons. eries are slated to open in 2015, which For a complete listing of breweries The new lounge-focused model allows will bring the provincial total to more province wide, by region, visitbcmag.ca. breweries to connect directly with their own communities or neighbourhoods. Breweries recognize the importance of Vancouver, which began focusing on beer operators and beer festivals have also in southeastern B.C. in communities variety and put new styles on tap often, in 2006, but the concept has since spread grown and expanded. such as Cranbrook, Kimberley, Rossland which brings customers back regularly. We’d love to call well beyond the city. and Invermere and on Vancouver Island Consumers love the close connection they it a cliche, but Growlers, too, played an important role. in Courtenay, Cumberland and Tofino. have with the brewery—and often directly beards and craft These refillable jugs had been around in One-brewery towns such as Kamloops, with the people who make the beer. beer truly do go limited use since Nanaimo’s Longwood tHE boom In 2010, there were 40 craft Nelson and Kelowna have gained new Rather than trying to take over the hand in glove, as shown by these Brewpub first began offering them in breweries operating in B.C. Three opened operations, and multiple breweries have whole market with one beer as the big, two at Deep Cove 2000, but they finally started clicking into in 2011, and when eight opened in 2012, opened in bursts in Abbotsford, Maple multinational brewing conglomerates Brewers and Dis- public consciousness around 2010 in it marked the biggest-ever expansion Ridge and Port Moody. seem intent to do, craft breweries have tillers in North Victoria, and a little bit later in Vancouver and brought the total to more than 50 The place that has seen the biggest recognized for a while now that variety Vancouver. and elsewhere. When Tofino Brewing province-wide. But what happened next growth, by far, is Vancouver, where a is what drives the interest in artisanal Company opened in 2011, it did so with was astonishing: nine new breweries dozen new breweries have opened since beer. Most breweries produce a wide a growler focus, mainly out of environ- opened in 2013, along with three new 2012. Prior to that, no new breweries range of beer styles, and many release mental reasons. But growlers took off far separate production breweries built by had opened in the city since 1998. Add one-off “pilot batches” in their tasting beyond the brewery’s expectations, and established brewpubs; and then a stag- another dozen new breweries in the rooms, which are often only available by other startups, such as Powell River’s gering 21 new breweries opened in 2014. suburbs around the city and the Lower the glass, once again reinforcing a direct Townsite Brewing Inc. and North Vancou- Most meaningfully, perhaps, is how the Mainland is clearly the epicentre of this connection between the brewer and the ver’s Bridge Brewing Company, enjoyed expansion of interest in craft beer has current craft beer boom. customer. similar success adopting the same model. occurred in regions outside of the estab- This local focus is the model that As more and more craft breweries lished urban centres: new breweries have Michael Lewis adopted when he and opened throughout B.C., related enter- opened in northern communities such his wife decided to move from Victoria prises such as hop and barley farmers, as Prince Rupert, Terrace and Quesnel, KEEping it LocaL Most of these to Valemount, near Jasper on the B.C.- brewery equipment producers, tour out on the Alberta border in Valemount, new breweries are focused on serving Alberta border, to open Three Ranges

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