PROMOTING ECONOMIC JUSTICE FOR FAMILY-SCALE FARMING

NEWS FROM THE CORNUCOPIA INSTITUTE FALL 2016

Toothless GMO Food Labeling Bill Becomes Law Corporate Elites Betray Organics

BY WILL FANTLE The DARK Act would not have he looming July 1 implementation been possible without the date for Vermont's first-of-a-kind, behind-the-scenes machinations historic GMO food ingredients T of the Organic Trade Association, labeling law pushed Monsanto and other corporate giants in retailing, a few of its most powerful biotechnology, and agribusiness members, and two corporate- into overdrive as they ramped up pressure on Congress to negate funded non-profit organizations the state law. – Just Label It and the Labeling opponents wisely Environmental Working Group. identified Michigan Senator Debbie Stabenow, the ranking Democrat on the Senate Agriculture Committee, as the key to crafting JLI, founded by Stonyfield Its next hurdle would be a cloture what they described as a "compromise" Yogurt chairman Gary Hirshberg, vote, a 60-vote threshold required to bill. Stabenow's bill was able to move and the EWG signaled their support halt a filibuster and debate on a bill enough Senate Democrats to join with for an agribusiness-supported and force a final vote on the Senate an already solid block of Republicans alternative to actual GMO labeling, floor. By early July grassroots to muscle through its swift passage. Quick Response (QR) codes, those organic and pro-labeling forces were Ardent GMO backer, Senate inscrutable Rorschach-like images mobilizing to fight the cloture vote. Agriculture Chair Pat Roberts (R- found on some product packaging. The nation's largest consumer Kansas) called it "the most important The scanning of these speckled organization, Consumer Reports, agriculture vote in 20 years." When black squares with a smart phone and along with the Organic Con- signed into law by the President in the appropriate app can provide more late July, it preempted Vermont's new product information. These QR codes GMO LABELING continued on page 8 law, mandatory GMO seed labeling were sold as a solution to food labeling requirements in two states, and requirements and became an integral dozens of related local ordinances. part of the Stabenow Bill. Millions INSIDE THIS ISSUE But what has been rightly called of Americans are now discriminated Organic Merger Challenge...... 2 the DARK Act would not have been against by not having smart phones Apple Production...... 4 possible without the behind-the- and/or sufficient data plans. Beneficial Wildlife...... 5 scenes machinations of the Organic The full Senate vote was only Organic History...... 6 Trade Association (OTA), a few of its made possible when its backers DIY Organic Certification...... 9 most powerful members, and two invoked an obscure procedural corporate-funded non-profit organiza- gimmick that hadn't been used in Farmer Profile...... 10 tions – Just Label It (JLI) and the En- more than 40 years to push it forward. Hydroponics...... 12 vironmental Working Group (EWG). Cornucopia Asks Regulators to Block Merger Groupe Danone/WhiteWave Would Dominate the Organic Dairy Market

BY MARIE BURCHAM, JD Silk brand is a leader in plant-based Cornucopia.org/Danone2016 to push beverages. Danone will be taking for a full investigation of the proposed he French dairy giant Groupe control of a bigger piece of the merger by federal regulators. Danone (Dannon in the U.S.) organic dairy market than has ever The market for organic dairy T has announced the proposed been controlled by a single company. already has less competition than acquisition of WhiteWave Foods With this acquisition Danone other agricultural sectors and is for approximately $10 billion. will easily be able to beat out more susceptible to monopolization. The deal would combine the competition by lowering prices The anti-competitive implications world’s largest organic yogurt beyond what farmstead and of this deal for organic dairy should brand, Stonyfield, with Wallaby, more moderately sized dairies be considered as distinct from a rapidly growing yogurt label, and can withstand. Danone’s nonorganic market share. Horizon, the nation’s largest brand Dairy has long been the first These are important consider- of organic milk. food consumers associate with the ations for determining whether this Cornucopia has formally organic label. In many households acquisition violates the Sherman challenged the acquisition based organic milk is among the first foods Act and the Clayton Act for anti- on the serious erosion of competition introduced to children. As such a key competitive and anti-trust reasons. it would create in the consumer part of the organic market, it is vital Danone is already a majority marketplace and the negative that competition remains open. shareholder of Stonyfield, the economic impact it would have Cornucopia made this largest organic yogurt brand in the on U.S. organic dairy farmers. argument in letters calling on U.S. Adding WhiteWave’s Wallaby WhiteWave brands are the top the Department of Justice and the and Horizon Organic brand yogurts sellers in their categories. Horizon Federal Trade Commission to treat to Danone’s existing market share organic milk controls nearly 25% of this merger as suspect. In addition, the organic milk market, while their a petition drive was launched at Continued on page 3

BOARD OF DIRECTORS Dave Minar Tom Willey STAFF Organic Dairy Producer Organic Vegetable Grower Mark Kastel, Codirector & Senior Farm Policy Analyst Helen Kees, President New Prague, MN Madera, CA Organic Livestock Will Fantle, Codirector & Director of Research Cameron Molberg Jim Gerritsen Producer Linley Dixon, PhD, Farm and Food Policy Analyst Durand, WI Organic Livestock Producer Organic Potato Grower and Feed Mill Manager President, OSGATA Jérôme Rigot, PhD, Farm and Food Policy Analyst Kevin Engelbert, Austin, TX Bridgewater, ME Marie Burcham, JD, Farm and Food Policy Analyst Vice President Organic Dairy Producer Steve Sprinkel Gayle Nielsen, Membership Coordinator Former NOSB Member Organic Vegetable Producer Therese Laurdan, Membership Assistant Nichols, NY POLICY ADVISORY PANEL Organic Restaurateur Jennifer Hayden PhD, Communications & Michael James Ojai, CA Barry Flamm, PhD, Development Director Community Leader Jim Crawford Secretary Rachel Zegerius, Communications & Development Associate Conservation Consultant Organic Restaurateur Organic Vegetable Producer Former NOSB Member Chicago, IL Wholesale Marketing Melody Morrell, Data Analyst and Research Specialist Polson, MT Amanda Love Cooperative Founder Jason Cole, Research Associate Hustontown, PA William Heart Natural Foods Chef Zuri Allen, Social Media Specialist Nutrition Educator Wildlife Conservationist Celeste Gibson, Accountant, HR Manager Austin, TX CONTACT US Ashland, WI P.O. Box 126 Jeremy Vossman, Webmaster Tony Azevedo Goldie Caughlan Cornucopia, WI 54827 THE CULTIVATOR Organic Dairy Producer (ret.) www.cornucopia.org PCC Natural Markets (ret.) San Joaquin Valley, CA Rachel Zegerius, Editor Cooperative Retail Educator 608-625-2000 Special thanks to Melody Morrell for proofreading. Former NOSB Member [email protected] Unless otherwise noted, photos are from AdobeStock. Seattle, WA 2 will allow the dairy conglomerate to control a sizable slice of the U.S. organic market. Mergers like this one could eventually reduce options and raise prices for consumers without any positive impact on the quality of the products they are buying. With less competition, big companies commonly underpay independent farmers for their products, undermining the economic viability of small, family- scale farms. We should be very wary of this particular acquisition, as it could seriously erode wholesale competition in other less obvious, but potentially ominous, ways. The number-two brand of organic milk in the marketplace, Organic Valley, is produced by a member- owned farmer cooperative that has been the longtime raw milk supplier to the Stonyfield yogurt brand. If, after its acquisition, Danone decides to dump Organic Valley, a Horizon competitor, as a supplier, it could leave only one major purchaser of organic farm milk in some regions of the U.S., like New England. Complicating the matter, one of the other leading brands of fluid milk, marketed under the Stonyfield label, is actually produced and distributed by Organic Valley. Stonyfield built its reputation and brand on its imagery of supporting family-scale dairy farms, predominantly in the Northeast. Conversely, a substantial percentage of the milk used in Horizon products comes from “organic” factory-dairies in the West, many milking thousands of cows each. Cornucopia is currently investigating reports of new giant organic dairies, each milking 2,000-5,000 cows, springing up in Oregon, Idaho, and Texas. Many of these PHOTOS TAKEN BY THE CORNUCOPIA INSTITUTE operations milk three to four times per day, rather than twice, which is the standard on farms that move their cattle to pasture each day. Photos: Certified Organic Factory Farms In addition, state regulatory documents indicate (Above) Hilltop LLC, Boehning Dairy in Earth, Texas. some of these dairy operations have as many as 10 cows (May 17, 2014). (Below) No evidence of cows on pasture at per acre, whereas previous polling done by Cornucopia Horizon Dairy in Kennedyville, Maryland (Sept. 27, 2014). indicated the national average for organic producers was one cow per acre. conventional milk market by an increasingly concentrated Which production model dominates in the new group of companies allegedly manipulating the market. merged entity will have a great impact on the future Ironically, Dean Foods, the original parent compny financial viability of family dairy farms in this country. of WhiteWave, was long viewed as the consummate If the management and infrastructure at Horizon takes industry ‘bad actor’ and was under scrutiny by the charge, many smaller dairy farms will become expendable Justice Department for market manipulation. The in favor of cheaper milk, produced on industrial-scale corporate kingpins that run the company are still dairies. This merger truly represents a clash of cultures. making billions at the expense of hard-working dairy Peter Hardin, perennial industry observer and families,” says Hardin. publisher of The Milkweed, a dairy publication, sees If this merger is allowed to go through, it may very this merger as a bad deal for dairy farmers. “Dairy well exacerbate the illegal and unfair competition being farmers commercialized the organic industry, starting condoned by the corporate-friendly regulators overseeing in the 1980s, because of the oppressive control of the the organic industry at the USDA.

3 A REAL Apple a Day Why to Purchase Local AND Organic This Fall

BY LINLEY DIXON, PHD resistant to insects and diseases, widespread pollution and an reducing the need to spray pesticides. abysmal food safety record. all, in most regions of the U.S., Many local organic orchards are A 2014 survey by China’s means an abundance of local situated in unique microclimates. government found that one-fifth F apples. They’re likely not as big Cold nights, hot sunny days, and of the country’s farmland was or picture-perfect as the apples in reduced dependence on irrigation polluted with heavy metals, including the grocery store, but local apples, produce concentrated flavors that mercury, arsenic, cadmium, and organics especially, pack a taste that will knock your socks off. nickel. These heavy metals are is often sweet, tart, and more complex 3) The Environmental Working known to accumulate in produce. than their conventional counterparts. Group (EWG) rated apples #1 in their 5) Apples are an affordable fruit Below are just a few of the 2015 “Dirty Dozen” (conventionally when bought locally and in-season. many reasons why you should buy grown fruits and vegetable to avoid Many areas have pick-your-own organically grown apples from your due to pesticide contamination). options, reducing the cost even more local farmer this season. Pesticide contamination was and enabling drying or preserving. 1) Escalating concerns about found on 98% of the 700 apples tested. 6) Buying directly from apple conventional apple farming Common among the residues detected farmers supports local farming include reliance on non-renewable were organophosphate insecticides. families and a diverse local agrarian resources, reduced biodiversity, These neurotoxic chemicals were landscape. Farmers often net a water contamination, chemical drift, banned for use in homes by the EPA better price when they cut out the toxic residues in food, soil degradation, because they are known to cause middleman and sell directly to and health risks to farm workers. harm to humans and are linked to consumers, allowing money to stay A study published in the journal low IQ and ADHD in children of in your community. Nature concluded that organic farmworkers. In 2016 apples were Knowing your farmer creates apple production systems have ranked #2 on the “Dirty Dozen” list, community, provides the opportunity higher soil quality and lower just behind strawberries. for production questions, and may negative environmental impacts 4) Surprisingly, the U.S. imports even allow for visits to the farm. than conventional systems. apples, while apples grown in the U.S. The next time you see a smaller Organic production systems also sometimes go unharvested, primarily or unique-looking apple at your local produced sweeter apples, had higher due to pricing fluctuations and lack farmers market, don’t be so quick to profitability, and were more energy of profitability. Though China also judge it by its cover. There’s so much efficient. Choosing organic gives exports fresh apples to the U.S., most more that its purchase will support you a safer, better product and also apples arrive here as concentrates for beyond the delight to your taste buds! protects the environment and the juice – from a country with people producing your food. Unique, local 2) More than 7,500 varieties of apples are known to exist. However, varieties are only 15 varieties account for more more likely to than 90% of the apples commercially be naturally produced in the U.S. Your local, organic farmer is resistant to much more likely to grow rare or insects and heirloom varieties that have been diseases, selected over the ages for taste and local conditions, rather than qualities reducing the that favor mechanical harvesting, need to spray shipping, and long storage life. pesticides and These unique, local varieties are also much more likely to be naturally fungicides.

4 Beneficial Wildlife The Unsung Heroes of a Balanced Farm Ecosystem

BY MARIE BURCHAM, JD Small burrowing mammals, including moles and mice, are a s any organic farmer surprising example of these benefits. knows, balancing on-farm These species are often considered A biodiversity with agricultural “pests” in agricultural systems, but production can be a constant they have surprising benefits to challenge. Luckily, a wildlife- pasture and open space. friendly approach to farming Their activities help to decompose can support animals that provide and incorporate organic matter, services to enhance, and even aerate the soil, and allow better increase, food production. water and root infiltration. In a Familiar “services” provided balanced system, where wild by wildlife include pollination and Organic farmers can rely on the predator and prey are healthy, predation of crop pests. Bees, wasps, complex relationships among wildlife burrowing mammals provide butterflies, beetles, and even bats for many production benefits. these valuable services without and hummingbirds are well known overrunning or degrading open land. for their benefits to agriculture as Another strategy to boost pollinators. However, there are some beneficial on-farm services is to animals that are often overlooked, levels. When coyotes are removed, provide habitat for transient wildlife. their roles as beneficial wildlife mis- their prey populations often explode, When farmers flood their grain fields understood by farmers and the public. leading to the need for greater pest after harvest, it can have a dramatic One of the biggest benefits wildlife control measures. benefit for both wildlife and the provide to organic farmers is natural Learning to coexist with these farmer. Flooding attracts and pest control. Organic farmers cannot opportunistic hunters means being provides habitat for migratory use common poisons for rodent and diligent with containment systems waterfowl. While foraging in these insect control, and trapping can be and farm management practices, but fields, the waterfowl dramatically both inhumane and labor-intensive. the benefits of having these clever increase the decomposition of Many animals are useful to balance hunters around farmland is clear. straw, even to the point that the predator and prey populations within Other animals that deserves farmer may not need to till their existing farm ecosystems. respect for their role in a healthy field before the next planting. Native bird species play an organic farm system are native This practice is already popular, important role in insect control snakes. Snakes are a valuable even on conventional rice farms. and may keep weeds in check by component of most ecosystems, In a country of increasing feeding on their seeds. For example, playing complex predator and prey agricultural industrialization, the nests of barn swallows can cause roles. Snakes have particular value organic farmers can rely on the a mess and contaminate buildings, to farmers, as many species help complex relationships among but if given a safe place to rear their keep pest populations in check wildlife for many production benefits. young, they are beautiful and without the use of chemicals or Wildlife needs organic farms efficient insect hunters. more labor-intensive controls. too; buffers and wild verges provide While many farmers consider Garter snakes feed on slugs and valuable habitat and biodiversity to coyotes pests in their own right, insect pests, while gopher snakes support a balanced ecosystem. they should be respected for their are one of the larger non-poisonous Organic food embodies the beneficial role in the ecosystem species that takes care of rodent philosophy that it is possible to live and on the farm. The majority of a and burrowing animal pests, able in harmony with all wildlife. With coyote’s diet consists of destructive to hunt the animals within their an experienced eye, you can see rodents and, in a properly balanced own burrows and tight spaces. how even the most misunderstood ecosystem, they keep rabbits and Wildlife can provide benefits animals provide essential benefits burrowing animals at sustainable beyond pollination and pest control. to our nation’s farms.

5 Preserving Organic History An Archival Collection of the Organic Movement

BY ROGER BLOBAUM The second personal AND JENNIFER collection, donated HAYDEN, PHD by Jim Riddle and Joyce Ford, documents ersonal papers, the founding and reports and early years of the P proceedings from International Organic early organic farming Inspectors Association. meetings and It also includes conferences, early papers from Riddle’s newsletters, and term on the National other materials of Organic Standards historic interest are Board, such as a being collected and pointed critique of the archived in a new PHOTO COURTESY OF WI HISTORICAL SOCIETY first proposed organic national organic and Organic materials of historic interest are being collected seal, which looked not unlike a typical sustainable agriculture and archived in a new national and sustainable agriculture history collection at biohazard sign. the Wisconsin collection at the Wisconsin Historical Society. As the primary Historical Society. champion of the These documents tell archiving project, the story of how the organic Roger Blobaum, one of Roger Blobaum’s papers are also movement was built by farmers Cornucopia’s first formal advisory included in the collection. who shared information about its committee members, is Blobaum has been a leader in values and principles, adopted partnering with the historical organic farming research, practices that assured plant and society in developing the new education, advocacy, and animal health, helped develop organic and sustainable agriculture policymaking since the early 1970s. organic standards, voluntarily had history collection. While many of his papers have their farms inspected and certified, Jonathan Nelson, a Historical been archived in hardcopy, Blobaum and responded to consumers’ Society collections development has also made selected articles easily organic integrity concerns. archivist, is the director of this new accessible on his organic history They also help tell how national collection. The project has website, rogerblobaum.com. His organic farmers overcame received generous support from the |website offers a wealth of informa- federal government and Ceres Trust. tion on the origins of this movement. agriculture establishment So far, more than 20 organic and Archivists have also collected opposition and disrespect. sustainable agriculture leaders and records from FairShare Coalition, The materials being preserved pioneers have donated papers. an organization of organic CSA document the history of organic The first collection was donated by farmers in south central WI; from certification, state organic programs, Loni Kemp, a national sustainable Cissy Bowman, national organic state and regional organic farming agriculture leader for more than 25 policy leader, pioneer organic farmer, organizations, the enactment and years. Her donated materials include and founder of an Indiana organic implementation of the 1990 Organic papers from her time serving as a certification organization; from Foods Production Act, the National founder and board member of the F.H. King, a University of Organic Standards Board, the National Campaign for Sustainable Wisconsin soils professor and National Organic Program, and Agriculture and as a board member chief of USDA’s Division of Soil continuing efforts to mobilize of the Minnesota Institute for Management from the early 20th public support for organic research, Sustainable Agriculture. century who wrote the classic, education, and extension. Continued on page 7

6 Farmers of Forty Centuries; and from a host of other notable organic pioneers. All of the archived materials are publicly available. Those interested in accessing the collections can visit the archive’s reading room at the Wisconsin Historical Society in Madison where they are stored. The materials are also available at any University of Wisconsin campus via a free courier service. Each individual’s collection has been digitally cataloged and can be viewed at The USDA Organic Seal (205.107.b) consists of a http://tinyurl.com/OrganicHistoryCollection. triangular outline containing 3 dark triangles with a circle The online catalog includes descriptions and with 2 arrows and the words "MEETS USDA REQUIREMENTS." folder-level inventories that can help prospective Inside of that is a globe with the word "ORGANIC" contained researchers understand whether a particular in a slash across the earth. The triangular design reminds collection contains what they are looking for, before one of the symbol for radioactive waste and fallout shelters. making the effort to visit the archives at the Wisconsin The slash across the globe also looks like the earth with the Historical Society, where they are stored. universal symbol for "not" or "no" over it. Both of these Readers of this newsletter who have saved personal images are wholly unacceptable. A much more appealing papers and other artifacts that document the origins and symbol has been chosen by the USDA and FDA to be evolution of the organic movement are encouraged to displayed on irradiated food. This is a green, blooming flower. consider donating to the collection. Image is important! Appropriate materials will help tell the story of the development of CSAs, local farmers markets and food cooperatives, organic and sustainable agriculture The above image and text are from Jim and Joyce Riddle’s organizations, and efforts to shape and enact state and archives. Image quality is as it appeared in the original. national laws, regulations, and policies. (Comments from the Organic Trade Association to the USDA For more information about the collection, regarding the first proposed organic seal. March 1998.) contact Roger Blobaum at [email protected] or Mr. Nelson at [email protected].

Cornucopia Welcomes New Board Member Cameron Molberg

Cameron Molberg has been elected to Cornucopia's organic farming and gardening, and the organic board of directors. Cameron joined Texas-based Coyote certification processes. He's been called an Creek Organic Feed Mill & Farm in 2010 and currently "encyclopedia in blue jeans." serves as CEO and General Manager. He previously served as treasurer Coyote Creek is the only of the Texas Organic Farmers & certified organic feed mill in Texas Gardeners Association (2010-2015), and and operates the largest organic pasture- he founded two organic restaurants in based chicken farm in the state. Their Austin, TX, before joining Coyote Creek brand, World's Best Eggs, enjoys a 5-egg Organic Feed Mill. Cameron is also rating on Cornucopia's egg scorecard. president of the Texas Center for Local Cameron brings to the board an Food and serves as a board member of educational background that includes the Southeastern Sustainable Livestock institutional management, animal Coalition. science, and food technology. He is Prior to joining the board, Cameron frequently invited to give talks on a was a formal policy advisor to Cornucopia. variety of topics, including beginning In particular, his perspectives on animal

and advanced poultry-keeping, GMOs PHOTO COURTESY OF JANE KO welfare issues and on the organic egg sector

in our food supply and in livestock feeds, have been valuable to the organization.

7 GMO LABELING continued from page 1 One senate staffer told the bill's definition of genetic engineering. sumers Association, the Center for opponents that OTA's lobbying The USDA might raise the Food Safety, Food and Water Watch, convinced 15-20 senators who might threshold for incidental GMO Cornucopia, and dozens of others were have opposed the bill (and had opposed contamination from the currently publicly calling on the Senate to reject an earlier version of the DARK Act) to accepted .09% to as high as 30% while the bill, hundreds of thousands of their instead support it. still calling that non-GMO! members flooding Senate phone lines. The corporate-organic industry • The bill suggests that the USDA Key Senators also spoke out sell-out facilitated a successful cloture harmonize its ultimate definition of against the bill. And the Food and vote that passed by a 65-32 margin. genetic engineering with the organic Drug Administration – the primary Senate and House passage of the law's definitions – something that agency overseeing food labeling – actual bill followed shortly. could create a huge loophole into issued a damning assessment of the Aside from overriding state and organic's current strict prohibitions bill's many deficiencies. local laws, what are some of the DARK on GMO technology. Behind the scenes, the OTA and Act's other fundamental deficiencies? "The passage of this law will deny, its leadership quietly worked for • There is no requirement for for the foreseeable future, the right passage. This activity persuaded on-package labeling of GMO foods. of most American's to know what is enough reluctant Democratic • As many as 100 million in the food they are eating," observes Senators to ignore what had become Americans lack the ability to find out Cornucopia's senior farm policy a loud call for rejection from fellow product specifics by not being able to analyst, Mark Kastel. "It is Senators, 286 public interest access QR codes. vitally important that we double organizations, thousands of phone • The biotech-friendly USDA – not down on our efforts to protect the calls from the public, and broad con- the FDA – is charged with creating integrity of the organic label, the demnation by the organic community. the law's actual labeling rules over marketplace alternative to Along with executives from the next two years. untested GMO technology." companies like Stonyfield, Organic • The bill leaves totally unclear The Cornucopia Institute and a Valley, Smuckers, WhiteWave, and what will be considered a GMO food number of our allies in this fight Whole Foods, OTA lobbyists assured and/or ingredient. According to the are researching joining forces in Senators that “the majority of the FDA, most foods typically thought a federal lawsuit challenging the organic industry supported the of as being produced or made with constitutionality of some of the Stabenow Bill.” GMO ingredients will not be aspects of this draconian piece covered by the bill's narrow of legislation.

The Official Cornucopia Food Label Is Here!

n 2008 the Cornucopia Institute introduced its Organic ranking on one of our scorecards. Labels marked I Dairy Scorecard in an effort to identify those organic “Excellent” indicate the brand has achieved the second- brands that meet the highest standards of highest ranking. Only those organic organic agriculture. Since then, we have brands who are in the top two (of five) developed additional scorecards for organic levels, on one of our scorecards, are eggs, soy, yogurt, and cereal. eligible to display our label. For years, organic brands that achieve a How can I display the Cornucopia food high rating on Cornucopia’s scorecards have label on my brand? High-quality electronic asked us how they can use their exemplary versions of the label can be obtained free of status to promote their brands in the charge. Decals that can be affixed to marketplace. Now, thanks to the continued existing packaging can be purchased at advocacy of board member Kevin Engelbert, cost (about $0.01 per label, or $10 per 1,000). the Cornucopia food label for highly rated Our hope is that the Cornucopia food producers has been developed, and it has label will serve to assist the very best debuted on approximately twelve organic egg brands. organic brands in marketing their products, and will What does it mean? Cornucopia labels marked “Top help consumers identify brands that meet both the letter Rated” indicate that the brand has achieved the highest and spirit of the organic regulations.

8 Local Food Relations DIY Organic Certification Guide

uying locally produced non-certified farmers are not AND certified organic food knowledgeable as to which B guarantees the most authentic, alternative therapeutic approaches nutritious, and sustainable options. are acceptable under the National But, in the absence of that binary, Organic Standards. Cornucopia suggests asking the "How do you manage parasites?" following questions at your market, Maintaining a closed herd, CSA, or retailer to guide your quarantining sick animals, and purchasing choices towards the sanitization measures minimize healthiest local food for your exposure to disease and parasites. family and the environment. Sustainable stocking rates, intensive “Who grew this food?” rotational grazing, and the use of Producer-only farmers markets In the absence of locally produced multispecies grazing are helpful feature vendors who sell items AND certified organic food options, practices to help break the life cycles which they have themselves Cornucopia suggests asking growers of internal parasites. Parasiticides produced. Other market models allowed in organic production are on allow vendors to resell produce and retailers specific questions to the National List of Allowed and they bought wholesale. guide your purchasing choices. Prohibited Substances. “What is in season right now?” "What is the origin of the livestock?" Some farmers may be selling Were the animals managed produce that is not local, while “How is disease managed?” organically from the last third of others use hoop houses or heated Fertile soil, rich in organic matter, gestation and born on the farm, greenhouses to bring produce to managed using crop rotations, or were they purchased from an market out of season. cover crops, and composted animal auction, a practice not allowed under “If not certified, how was it grown?” manures will resist diseases. the organic standards? Claims of “no-spray,” “chemical-free,” Organic-approved fungicide used “Can I visit your farm?” “natural," or “grown using organic can be checked for OMRI listing. Visiting a farm is one of the primary methods” are subjective. Synthetic “How do you control weeds?” ways to verify that the farm is fertilizers, agrochemicals, and Organic farmers will tolerate some operating with integrity and spraying of field borders are amount of weed pressure, as long as meets organic standards. Some possible. Learn about management their crop’s yield is not threatened. farms even offer “work for produce” of soil fertility and weed, disease, Organic strategies used to control exchanges, which is a great way to and pest controls. weeds include using cover crops, become more intimately familiar “Do you use OMRI-approved mulching, cultivation (tilling), and/or with your farmer’s practices. products? If not, what do you use?” hand weeding, in smaller operations. Farmers markets and CSAs Organic Materials Review “How is livestock managed?” offer meaningful ways to access Institute products are authorized Organic standards require access some of the best food in your for use under the National Organic to the outdoors/pasture and community. These pointed Program’s standards. prohibit confinement. Mobile questions will help you sort “How do you control pests?” coops for chickens and, for cattle, through the various claims made Biodiversity, wildlife corridors, one cow or less per acre are good at farmers’ stands and ensure that beneficial insects, proper spacing, standards. Nonorganic grain is you are getting healthy, local foods and crop rotations all minimize likely GMO and contaminated you depend on. pests. Organic-approved pest with agrochemical residues. control products are available; ask "How is animal health managed?" For more information visit: for product names and see if they Organic production relies on disease are OMRI-listed. prevention and bans most veterinary Cornucopia.org/ medicines and antibiotics. Many Certification-Guide

9 Bathed in Love at Butterworks Organic Yogurt the Offspring

BY RACHEL ZEGERIUS and their yogurt on shelves across the state, the Lazors invested ou might not meet a more heavily in minerals for their land. dynamic dairy duo than Jack “The payback was almost Y and Anne Lazor. “I’m Mr. immediate,” says Jack. Giddyup and she’s Madam Whoa,” Diversity and yield of browse says Jack. increased in the hayfields. He notes that she’s the one The health and general well- with common sense who interjects being of cows improved, and milk reality into any situation, while she production increased. ascertains that he’s the dreamer “Thus began my love affair with and the charm behind the legend PHOTO COURTESY OF JACK LAZOR soil,” he explains. “All I needed to that is Butterworks Farm. do was to take care of it, and it took The Lazors have been farming in If there is any one thing that care of us. This was such a revelation the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont Butterworks aims to be, it’s an to me. I very quickly realized that since the late 1970s, when they alternative to corporate organics. balanced mineral inputs do not cost— processed milk from their two they actually pay.” family cows on the stovetop in their “We are definitely marching to Voilà, the terroir of Butterworks farmhouse kitchen. Early on, their the beat of a different drummer,” Farm, a by-product of this deep local delivery route consisted of 35 says Jack. reverence and responsibility to care families receiving eggs, raw milk, for the Earth. And, in turn, the Earth butter, farmer’s cheese, and – their is taking care of them. ambrosial, signature product – yogurt. to deliver, one thing is for certain. Butterworks Farm has sustained Today, Butterworks Farm yogurt Umbilical to Butterworks’ success itself for four decades and now is one of the most widely recognized is a commitment to the land itself: grosses nearly $1.2 million each year. organic brands on shelves across the soil vitality. They currently have a total of 85 dairy Northeast. Cornucopia has given the Over the years, despite growing cows, including 43 milkers, and this product its highest and most reputable, and changes in their farming year they transitioned from a system 5-spoon, rating on its yogurt scorecard, approach, dairy production, and of feeding the cows both grain and hay designed to educate consumers about business practices, the one thing to one of 100% grass-fed diets for all of the best and worst organic brands that has endured is a perennial their adult cows. available. (Visit: cornucopia.org/ commitment to balancing nutrients, The high levels of forage quality in yogurt-scorecard/) trace minerals, organic matter, their fields - diversity, high energy, Captivating more dedicated and soil life. and high protein - have enabled the customers each year, it’s hard to “Developing the whole farm Lazors to stop feeding grain to their pinpoint just which of Butterworks organism is the most important cows altogether. Such grass-based Farm’s unique characteristics makes thing here,” says Jack. The Lazors systems build soil carbon and, in the their yogurt stand out. recognized the symbiosis early on. case of Butterworks, may lead to It could be the heritage strains of In the mid-1980s, with their Vermont no-till grain systems in the future. cultures, grown weekly and used in milk handlers’ license approved Implementing innovations like the fermentation process. Or, maybe it’s the high content of fat and solids found in their grass-fed cows’ milk Butterworks Farm that give it the rich flavor for which Westfield, Vermont it’s known. Alternatively, could it be butterworksfarm.com yogurt-maker Theresa’s special skills that bring the magic? (802) 744-6023 While all of these factor are sure

10 these, Jack and Anne Lazor are but maybe now we’re thinking one true organic pioneers. And, as of our options is to shrink,” says mentors in the movement, they Anne. Strategies moving forward have encouraged years of may include developing even more development in local production, relationships and markets through- local food, and….local competition. out Vermont and New Hampshire, Not only do giant organic a focus on being THE local brand. counterfeit corporations pose If there is any one thing that unfair competition, but increasing Butterworks aims to be, it’s an numbers of small New England alternative to corporate organics. dairies also make it harder to What will become of the Lazors succeed in today’s market. “We legacy? Only time will tell. Last Wishes can’t complain about that though, “We are definitely marching to because it’s really the best thing for the beat of a different drummer,” A Cornucopia Member communities to each have their local says Jack. And, in a profit-driven food supply,” says Anne. economy that often deemphasizes Shares with Her Family But, distribution and and externalizes the value of diverse and Friends profitability have declined over ecology and sustainable natural recent years. And, having been systems, the Lazors see themselves removed from the shelves of Whole as part of an “ascending spiral.” ervent Cornucopia Foods in the greater D.C. and New The unifying force that connects member and supporter York regions as of late, Butterworks every living and non-living organism F Mary Jurmain has sadly is reimagining a successful vision in their farm ecosystem takes root in passed away from a recurrence moving forward. Love of the Earth. “It’s pretty idyllc,” of cancer. “We rode the wave and now the observes Jack. Along with her husband wave has crested,” says Jack. So, the His definition of farming? Rick, they not only backed Lazors have spent the last several Producing food for people out of love. Cornucopia's work, but they months doing a lot of soul-searching, Jack chuckles, “The entire farm is also helped a young couple digging deep to unfold the riddle of bathed in love.” realize their dream of farming their future path – both personally Remember that when you take by assisting with the financ- and for the fate of the business. your next spoonful of Butterworks ing necessary to start a farming “We grew and grew for a while, Farm maple yogurt. operation. Even in her last few months, Mary and Rick were thinking of how they could make a lasting difference. As one of her last requests, Mary asked her friends to consider making a donation to Cornucopia as a bequest in her memory. We are deeply honored and grateful for her enduring thoughts and support. If you, too, are interested in committing your legacy in support of the organic movement in this way, Cornucopia would be happy

PHOTO COURTESY OF SHAWN G. HENRY to talk to you about diverse The Lazors have grown and proccessed their own organic grains for years. giving opportunities available. This year, however, they transitioned the cows onto a 100% grass-fed diet.

11

P.O. Box 126 Cornucopia, WI 54827 NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATION US POSTAGE PAID PERMIT NO. 322

Address Return Service Requested

Rewarding Authentic Organic Farmers

Cornucopia is updating one of its 'Organics' Sans Soil? most popular reports and scorecard Elders, Legal Observers, Diversified Farmers Say "No." "Maintaining the Integrity of Organic Milk," to provide the The USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP) safest, most nutrient dense and has released the report generated by its task force on hydroponic and aquaponic production. The authentic foods for families. "While 16-member “ponics” task force was charged with conducting the research, one evaluating the mounting controversy surrounding the alignment of these soilless systems with change we've noticed is the market current USDA organic regulations. development for dairy products from The National Organic Standards Board (NOSB) will use the report to provide recommendations on whether the organic certification process cows eating a 100% grass diet," should include “roots in water” production systems. says Marie Burcham, Cornucopia's The report comes amidst a raging debate over whether vegetables grown in nutrient solutions are in line with the basic premise of organic production: lead project researcher. Updates restoring and maintaining soil fertility. Internationally, hydroponic and will include an analysis of animal aquaponic operations are not allowed to be certified organic, although a few container-based exceptions apply for selling transplants, for example. welfare and origin of livestock Cornucopia strongly supports the 2010 NOSB recommendation that forbade issues. "The intent is to empower these systems, consistent with the rest of the organic world. However, the NOP has continued to allow hydroponic produce, largely from Mexico, Holland, and consumers and wholesale Canada, to be sold in the U.S. as ‘organic.’ Organic integrity depends on the U.S. buyers to vote in the marketplace, maintaining strong and consistent organic standards internationally. Pioneers of the organic movement are leading a “Keep the Soil in Organics” rewarding the true heroes in this campaign. They argue that organic farming is entirely centered on the industry and sending a message to biological complexity found in properly maintained, fertile soil. They have garnered signatures from many diverse national and international the bad actors,” notes Cornucopia organizations, representing over two million farmers and consumers, calling cofounder Mark Kastel. for a moratorium on all organically labeled hydroponic produce in the U.S. LINLEY DIXON, PHD