Akita Prefecture)

The articles and photos of p. 6 to p. 47 are featured in Frommer’s Japan day BY day. The hotels, restaurants, attractions in this guide (from p. 6 to p. 47) have been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. The listed information is up to date as of October 9, 2012. The listed information (prices, hours, times, and holidays) is subject to change. The listed telephone numbers are for when calling within Japan. When calling from outside Japan, add the country code of 81 and drop the 0 before the area code. Some of the listed websites are in Japanese only. Credit cards are abbreviated as following: AE: American Express, MC: Master Card, DC: Diners Club, V: Visa. The cities of Sapporo and Tokyo are not in Tohoku or North Kanto. 2 3

Cities in the U.S.A. with Direct Flights to and from Japan

Atlanta (Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport), Boston (General Edward Lawrence Getting to Japan Logan International Airport), Chicago (Chicago O’Hare International Airport), Dallas (Dallas/Fort Worth International Airport), Denver (Denver International Airport), Detroit (Detroit Metropolitan Wayne County Airport), Guam (Guam International Airport), Honolulu (Honolulu International Japan has four international airports. Narita International Airport handles the highest Airport), Houston (George Bush Intercontinental Airport), Los Angeles (Los Angeles International number of flights to and from Japan. Located on the outskirts of Tokyo, Narita is the Airport), Minneapolis (Minneapolis-Saint Paul International Airport), New York (John F. Kennedy airport to use if you’re traveling to anywhere in Japan’s north and east, which includes International Airport, Newark Liberty International Airport), Portland (Portland International Hokkaido, Tohoku, Kanto, and Chubu. You’ll also want Narita f you’re looking to do Airport), Saipan (Saipan International Airport), San Diego (San Diego International Airport), San business in or see the sights of Tokyo and its surroundings. Kansai International Airport Francisco (San Francisco International Airport), San Jose (Norman Y. Mineta San Jose International handles the second most number of international flights. Located on the outskirts of Airport), Seattle (Seattle-Tacoma International Airport), and Washington D.C. (Washington Dulles Osaka, the nation’s second largest city, the airport is a convenient gateway to west Japan’s International Airport). Osaka, Kobe, Kyoto, and Nara in addition to south Japan’s Kyushu and more. Central Japan International Airport, or Centrair for short, is located between Narita Airport and Kansai Airport. It’s perfect f you’re traveling to central Japan. Furthermore, it offers easy access to Nagoya and Nagoya Station where the Shinkansen bullet train stops. Tokyo International Airport, or Haneda Airport, is a domestic hub. It has been handling more international flights since 2010 when a new international terminal was added.

Airlines Operating Direct Flights to and from Japan

Japan Airlines ...... http://www.jal.com/

All Nippon Airways ...... http://www.ana.co.jp/asw/wws/us/e/

United Airlines ...... http://www.united.com/

American Airlines...... https://www.aa.com/

Delta Air Lines ...... https://delta.com/

Hawaiian Airlines ...... http://www.hawaiianair.com/

Korean Air ...... https://www.koreanair.com/ Airports in Japan Handling Direct Flights to and from the U.S.A. Asiana Airlines ...... http://flyasiana.com/

Singapore Airlines...... http://www.singaporeair.com/ Narita International Airport ...... http://www.narita-airport.jp/en/index.html

Malaysia Airlines...... http://www.malaysiaairlines.com/ Kansai International Airport ...... http://www.kansai-airport.or.jp/en/index.asp

China Airlines...... http://www.china-airlines.com/ Central Japan International Airport...... http://www.centrair.jp/en/index.html

Tokyo International Airport...... http://www.tokyo-airport-bldg.co.jp/en/ The listed information is up to date as of October 9, 2012. It is subject to change. Direct flights from San Jose: From January 2013. Direct flights from Denver: From March 2013. 4 5 Diversity of TOCHIGI Tohoku & North Kanto prefecture Tohoku and North Kanto are in Japan’s northeast. Comprising nine prefectures, the area is popular with many travelers because of its diverse range of natural and cultural 栃木県 offerings. Each prefecture presents unique natural spectacles with each new season Rinno-ji Temple. and has sights that speak of Japanese culture and the area’s rich history. Courtesy of Mount Nikko Rinno-ji Temple.

AOMORI GUNMA prefecture prefecture

青森県群馬県 Lake Towada. Courtesy of Tohoku Regional Environment Office, Ministry of the Environment. Kusatsu Onsen.

AKITA YAMAGATA prefecture prefecture

秋田県山形県

Kakunodate. Mogami River.

IWATE FUKUSHIMA prefecture prefecture

岩手県福島県 Chuson-ji Temple. Courtesy of Chuson-ji Temple. Mount Bandai.

MIYAGI IBARAKI prefecture prefecture

宮城県茨城県 Zuihoden Hall. Courtesy of Zuihoden. Fukuroda Falls. Tohoku & North Kanto 8 tohoku favorite moments 9 Mimmaya

Mutsu Bay N

Lake A Jusanko 339 P 280 4 A Area of Map SEA OF J Favorite Moments Noheji Lake Tokyo JAPAN Tsugaru Ogawara Aomori No region was hit harder by the earthquake that struck 101 Goshogawara 338 103 4 on March 11, 2011, than Tohoku, and a large swath of countryside along the Mt Iwaki Misawa coastline was rendered uninhabitable by the tsunami, which swept some towns Kuroishi Towada AOMORI 454 almost entirely away. In spite of this, its naturally resilient residents have taken Hirosaki TOWADA-HACHIMANTAI Hirakawa NATIONAL PARK Hachinohe great strides to return to their daily lives. The following tours lead through both 101 9 T o Lake 45 h o natural areas and historic sites that were not directly affected by the quake or k Towada u E x 103 flooding. Although you may have some reservations about traveling here, it’s p 7 r e s 395 s important to remember that every dollar you spend in Tohoku goes a long way w he Ninohe no y Odate a i a Kitaakita y ch sw Kuji toward helping locals recover, and that none of these itineraries are considered a s re H p Noshiro Kazuno x unsafe or off-limits. Plus you’ll be rewarded with spectacular mountain scenery, E 281 282 national parks, and hot springs in abundance. 4 AKITA 7 285 Hachirogata Mt. 45 Lagoon 105 Hachimantai Hachimantai Oga TOWADA-HACHIMANTAI 101 7 NATIONAL PARK 455 Katagami Mt. Iwate Mt. Komagatake IWATE 340 Lake 6 Morioka Akita Tazawa 46 Miyako A Senboku 106 ki 7 ta 46 5 E x 341 p Kakunodate re Mt. Aomatsuba s s w a y Daisen 396 340 45 13 Hanamaki 4 Yurihonjo Yokote Kamaishi 107 Tono Kitakami

Nikaho Mt. Yakeishi 108 Oshu 107 397 Ofunato Mt. Chokai Yuzawa 4 343 1 Rikuzen Takata 45 Ichinoseki 1 Taking in the splendor of 284 Kesennuma Chuson ji’s Konjikido Pavilion 457 398 2 Browsing the Asaichi Dori Morning Market 346 3 Basking in the glory of Zuihoden Hall Kurihara NORTH > previous page Nyuto Onsen’s spas are tucked deep in the forest. this page A sightseeing boat plies the 4 Hunting for “kappa” on their PACIFIC tranquil waters of Lake Tazawa, one of Japan’s highest and deepest. stomping grounds 45 OCEAN Osaki 5 Strolling back in time through 47 Kakunodate’s Samurai District 108 398 MIYAGI 1 Taking in the splendor of Chuson-ji’s 2 Browsing the Asaichi Dori market. Down- 6 Gazing into the placid alpine waters 346 Ishinomaki Konjikido pavilion. One of Japan’s most elabo- town Sendai’s market is open all day long, of Lake Tazawa Matsushima Higashimatsushima rately decorated traditional structures, this gilt and will give you a sense of the sorts of things 7 Soaking in the therapeutic waters 4 8 Ojika mausoleum in Hiraizumi is close to a thousand locals buy for their daily meals. It’s also a great of Nyuto Onsen 2 Peninsula 3 Tagajo years old. Painstakingly restored in the 1960s, it place to sample some regional delicacies. See 8 Island hopping around Matsushima Sendai Sendai 0 25 mi contains the mummies of several of Japan’s most p. 14, 2. 9 Getting away from it all with a trip to Natori Bay famous warriors. See p. 13, 2. Shirakami Sanchi 0 25 km 10 tohoku favorite moments 11

> Visitors purifying themselves before entering Chuson-ji Temple.

3 Basking in the glory of Zuihoden Hall. to seeing the remains of his castle in nearby This stunning example of traditional funereal Aobajo Park. See p. 34, 4. architecture, created in the 17th century to 4 Hunting for “kappa” on their stomping memorialize one of Japan’s greatest warlords grounds. Famed throughout Japan as a cradle and local legend Daté Masamune, is a feast of folklore stories, the city of Tono is a great for the eyes and a fascinating window into the place to learn about the kappa. They’re the age of samurai. It’s also a great steppingstone amphibious creatures once believed to haunt > The deep, serene forest around Nyuto Onsen.

rivers and lakes throughout Japan—and that Volunteering in Tohoku Nyuto Onsen. This incredibly out-of-the-way gave kappa maki sushi its name. See p. 28. spot is popular among those in the know for The 2011 tsunami destroyed vast sections a reason: This is Japanese spa bathing at its to accept the tasks assigned to you. These 5 Strolling back in time through Kakunodate’s of the Tohoku coastline, and while recovery most traditional—the experience of soaking in range from physical labor, such as cleaning up Samurai District. Seven samurai mansions built efforts began almost as soon as the waters the waters here hasn’t changed much for the debris, to helping serve food to other workers during the Edo Period remain in this corner of receded, a great amount of work remains. last few centuries. See p. 27. and refugees. These trips tend to be less regu- Kakunodate. The district retains ts feudal atmo- Even if you don't speak any Japanese, several larly scheduled than the usual tours, and may sphere to an amazing degree, thanks to ts wide 8 Island hopping around Matsushima. This travel agencies and relief organizations have require a bit more effort on your part to set up. streets flanked by weeping cherry trees and stretch of coastline, a short distance from begun running volunteer tours to some of the Here are a few organizations to get you started. dark wooden fences. A must-see for fans of Sendai, is considered one of the most scenic hardest-hit areas. The sites are all well outside Check the websites for the most up to date traditional architecture. See p. 24, 1. in Japan. Legend has t that haiku poet Mat- of the 80km (50-mile) restricted radius around information and pricing. suo Basho was so enchanted he could only the reactors specified by the U.S. government 6 Gazing into the placid alpine waters of HIS “Destination Japan” exclaim, “Matsushima, ah! A-ah, Matsushima, for visitors to Japan (and the 20km/12.4- Lake Tazawa. At 423m (1,388 ft.) deep, this is www.destination-japan.com ah! Matsushima, ah!” See p. 35. mile zone recommended by the Japanese quite a drink of water. In the summer months, government). Japan Experience the transparent waters of Japan’s deepest 9 Getting away from it all with a trip to Shi- These tours are all about helping locals, so www.japan-experience.com lake make for great swimming; in the cooler rakami Sanchi. One of Japan’s best-protected you need to approach them with more flexibil- seasons, you can rent a bike and take a spin natural habitats—the interior is off-limits to Habitat for Humanity Japan ity than you might a tourist trip. You will almost around the lake for some truly beautiful views. outsiders in order to protect the fragile eco- www.habitatjp.org definitely share your (often rustic) accommo- See p. 18. system—the fringes of this park offer up some Peace Boat Japan of Japan’s most beautiful natural sights, such dations with other volunteers, and be willing 7 Soaking in the therapeutic waters of http://peaceboat.jp/relief/volunteer as Anmon Falls. See p. 19, 4. 12 tohoku the best of tohoku in 3 days 13

396

N 340 Area of Hanamaki 45 A Map P 3 A 456 J Tono Kamaishi The Best of 107 283 Tokyo Kitakami 107 340 Tohoku in 3 Days AKITA 107 Mt. Yakeishi Oshu IWATE Three days is just enough to get the briefest taste of the 397 Yuzawa Ofunato charms Tohoku has to offer. This itinerary makes the most of it by touring several of 4 the region’s most famed temples and ending in Tono, considered a cradle of Japanese 343 Rikuzen Takata 2 folklore. If you’re traveling by train, you can also begin in Hiraizumi, then go to Sendai, 45 342 and finally end in Tono. Although Hiraizumi is closer to Tono geographically, the Ichinoseki 108 need to rely on local train lines means that travel time is almost the same as from 284 Kesennuma

more distant Sendai, which covers much of the distance by bullet train. 457 398

346 Kurihara NORTH y Tome YAMAGATA a w PACIFIC s 45 s e OCEAN Obanazawa r p x Osaki E 47

k 108

o 398

h o

Murayama T MIYAGI 346 Ishinomaki 13 Higashine Higashimatsushima Ojika 4 Peninsula Tendo 48 Tagajo Mt. Daito 1 Yamagata Sendai Sendai 1 Sendai Bay 0 20 mi 2 Hiraizumi Natori 0 20 km 3 Tono

Asaichi Dori (“Morning Market Avenue”) is Finally, Aobajo Koen (青葉城址) is a thickly open all day long, despite its name. Popular forested park* that’s home to the remnants with Japanese tourists, the avenue’s 70 stalls of Aobajo Castle itself and a famed statue and shops feature a wide variety of local and of Daté Masamune. It’s also a hop, skip, and > A statue of poet Matsuo Basho, who passed through Hiraizumi centuries ago. regional foods and products. a jump from your last stop, the Sendai City Zuihoden Hall, an opulent mauso- Museum. leum** for Daté Masamune, was constructed From Sendai Station, take the JR Tohoku in 1637. It features bold colors and designs start From Tokyo Station, take the JR was the former stomping grounds of a daimyo Shinkansen Yamabiko to Ichinoseki Station. similar to that of Nikko’s Toshogu Shrine (p. Tohoku Shinkansen Yamabiko to Sendai (warlord) named Daté Masamune, whose At Ichinoseki Station, switch to local JR 37, ), albeit on a smaller scale. Although the Station (129 min.). shadow still looms over the city in the form of 2 Tohoku Main Line bound for Morioka. Ride various castles, shrines, and mausoleums— main building is a reconstruction (the origi- 1 Sendai. One of Tohoku’s most popular tour- two stops to Hiraizumi Station (49 min.). but Sendai also features a host of modern-day nal burned down during World War II), the ist destinations, Sendai is the region’s largest attractions such as museums, zoos, and a grounds are a stunning example of the “funer- 2 Hiraizumi. Centuries ago, this city rivaled city and the capital of Miyagi prefecture. It large marketplace. al architecture” used for Japanese warlords. Kyoto for sheer sophistication. Today, all that 14 tohoku the best of tohoku in 3 days 15

back nearly a millennium. The grounds, which are dotted with dozens of smaller temples and a museum, are fascinating enough. But the crown jewel is Konjikido, a stunning gold mausoleum for the once all-powerful Fujiwara clan’s leaders. It now stands within a larger protective structure to protect ts delicate gilt exterior. Access to the complex is free, but there is a separate charge for entering the Treasure Hall museum and Konjikido pavilion. Located right in front of Chuson-ji Temple, the Hiraizumi Rest House (平泉レストハウス ) tourist information center serves up surprisingly good food. Of the two on-site restaurants, we prefer Gen, whose set lunches of ever-changing local goodies are well worth the price. As an added bonus, there are a variety of souvenir shops and a small museum in the building as well. Motsu-ji Temple (毛越寺) was founded in 850;** at its peak in the 12th century this was reputedly a massive religious complex w th dozens of buildings, even larger than that of Chuson-ji. But a series of fires shortly there- after reduced it to ashes. Today only a 1989 reconstruction of the original main hall and Ozumi-ga-ike, an original Pure Land Buddhist garden, remain. Chuson-ji: 202 Koromonoseki, Hiraizumi-cho, Iwate-ken. 0191/46-2211. Free; > Jozenji Dori, in downtown Sendai. Treasure Hall and Konjikido ticket ¥800. Daily > Kappa, kappa everywhere in Tono. Apr–mid-Nov 8am–5pm; mid-Nov–Mar 8:30am– 4:30pm. Train: Hiraizumi Station. Hiraizumi Rest remains of its glory days are a handful of tem- House: 10–7 Aza Sakashita, Hiraizumi, Hiraizumi- ples that are very much worth visiting: It's not cho. 0191/46-2011. www.kpc.co.jp/hirarest/. of the kappa, a yokai (monster) once believed so realistic that it is often used as a backdrop for nothing that UNESCO officially recognized Set lunches ¥1,800. No credit cards. Lunch daily. to dwell in local streams, ponds, and rivers. for television shows and films. It is home to the area as a World Heritage Site in 2011. Train: Hiraizumi Station. Motsu-ji Temple: 58 Roughly child-sized, the bipedal creatures six magariya (traditional L-shaped farmhouses There are three ways to explore them: Har- Osawa, Hiraizumi, Iwate. 0191/46-2331. www. sport tortoiseshell backs, froglike skin, and unique to the Tohoku region) that were relo- dier souls can hoof it; the temples are about motsuji.or.jp/english. ¥500 adults, ¥300 high- indentations atop their head filled with water; cated here from around Tono. a 40-minute walk from the station. There is school students, ¥100 junior-high students and should it spill while they’re on land, they lose A short walk from Denshoen (p. 30, 4), also a loop bus that runs between the station younger. Daily Nov 5–Apr 4 8:30am–4:30pm; Apr all of their power. Or so the saying goes. You the humble little shrine of Joken-ji Temple and the sights several times an hour. And f 5–Nov 4 8:30am–5pm. Train: Hiraizumi Station. might not be able to spot an actual kappa isn’t particularly thrilling in and of itself. But the weather is nice, you can rent bicycles from these days, but there are plenty of places it’s located right next to Kappa Pool, a From Hiraizumi Station, return to Ichinoseki a shop in Hiraizumi Station (¥500 for 2 hr. or around town to help you learn more about the babbling brook that is said* to be home to the Station. Take the JR Tohoku Shinkansen ¥1,000 for a full day), open 9am to 4pm daily legendary creatures. kappa—those mischievous monsters from Yamabiko to Shin-Hanamaki Station. Switch April through November (closed if raining). The Tono Municipal Museum is one such Japanese folklore. Don’t be surprised if you to JR Kamaishi Line bound for Kamaishi. The sights are few enough and close enough place, a fun little facility that focuses on local happen across little kids trying to catch one Disembark at Tono (90 min.). together that ambitious travelers can try to do traditions and handicrafts. One of our favorite with makeshift fishing rods made out of cu- them in a day, heading to Kakunodate to spend 3 Tono. Tono is famed throughout Japan for things about the museum is the theater, which cumbers on the end of a string. the night. its folk tales, which were first compiled in a screens animated documentaries about local Your final stop is d fficult to get to without Start with the stunning approach via a path book called Tono Monogatari (Legends of Tono) folk tales. It’s right outside the station and quick a car: Gohyakurakan. This holy site deep curving through massive cedars, which adds by the writer Kunio Yanagita at the turn of to go through, so make this your first stop. in the **woods is filled with hundreds of stones to the atmosphere of *** Chuson-ji Temple the 20th century. The otherwise unassum- The next stop, * Tono Folk Village, is a col- carved into Buddhist effigies by a monk honor- (中尊寺), an ancient temple complex that dates ing countryside town is the supposed home lection of traditional Tohoku-style dwellings ing those who died in a famine. See p. 28. 16 tohoku the best of tohoku in 1 week 17

Tsugaru Goshogawara Aomori N 4 A 101 103 P Area of 339 A Map The Best of Tohoku J 7 Tokyo Mt Iwaki 394 Towada 102 Kuroishi Hirosaki 454 AOMORI TOWADA-HACHIMANTAI in 1 Week Hirakawa NATIONAL PARK 102 One week gives you the advantage of being able to push 101 4 Lake Towada T 454 deeper into Tohoku, exploring areas that most tourists don’t ever get to see. o h o k You’ll notice that the distances between stops grow longer in this tour, but trust u E x 103 p us, it’s worth it—from ancient samurai houses to hidden hot springs, traditional 7 r e s s festivals to the natural splendors of national parks, this is Tohoku at its finest. w SEA OF a y JAPAN Odate Kitaakita e oh y in a 7 h w Kazuno c ss Noshiro a re H p x 282 E

7 285

Hachirogata Mt. Hachimantai Lagoon 105 Hachimantai Oga TOWADA-HACHIMANTAI NATIONAL PARK 101 3 Katagami AKITA Mt. Iwate Lake 2 Tazawa Mt. Komagatake

Akita 46 Morioka Senboku 1 Kakunodate A ki ta 46 2 Towada Hachimantai Park E 1 xp re Kakunodate 0 20 mi 3 s Nyuto Onsen sw a 4 Shirakami Sanchi y 0 20 km

Of Kakunodate’s 80-some samurai mansions Kakunodate has also been famous for its built during the Edo Period, only 7 remain. Still, cherry-bark crafts since the Edo Period. You the Samurai District retains its feudal atmo- can observe this painstaking craft by watching sphere to an amazing degree, thanks to wide artisans at work in Kakunodatemachi Den- streets flanked by weeping cherry trees and shokan. See p. 24. > Although Kakunodate Castle is long gone, exquisite replicas of parts of it adorn the site. dark wooden fences. (These fences and tradi- From Kakunodate Station, take the JR tional entry gates are employed even today to Shinkansen Komachi (15 min.) or the JR conceal more modern homes, giving a clean, Tazawako Line train (20 min.) to Tazawako start From Tono Station, take the JR 1 Kakunodate. Although the castle is long crisp line of vision throughout the district. It’s Station. Then take the bus to Tazawakohan Kamaishi Line to Shin-Hanamaki Station gone, Kakunodate’s original layout remains a strong contrast to the jumble of most Japa- bus stop (20 min.). (50 min.). At Shin-Hanamaki, switch to the remarkably intact, and includes one of the nese cities, and even to the merchant district JR Tohoku Shinkansen Yamabiko bound country’s best-preserved samurai districts. It that’s just a short walk away.) Chief among 2 Towada-Hachimantai Park (十和田八幡平国 for Morioka (90 min.). At Morioka, switch is also a great jumping-off point for exploring the mansions is the Aoyagi Samurai Manor, 立公園). Towada-Hachimantai National Park, to the JR Komachi Shinkansen bound for Towada-Hachimantai Park, which is perfect which shows how the upper crust lived in spreading 86,000 hectares (213,000 acres) Kakunodate Station (80 min.). for more active travelers. times of old. through north-central Tohoku and shared by 18 tohoku the best of tohoku in 1 week 19

Spending the Night Around Return to Tazawakohan bus stop and board a Shirakami Sanchi bus bound for Nyuto Onsen (30 min.). 3 Nyuto Onsen. This out-of-the-way loca- If you’re going to visit Shirakami Sanchi, your tion doesn’t show up on many tourist guides. best bet for accommodations is the city of That’s precisely why you should make it a Hirosaki. The unpretentious, unassuming point to go here. There is quite possibly no little Blossom Hotel Hirosaki more quintessential Japanese hot-spring town ( ), 7–3 Ekimae-cho ブロッサムホテル弘前 than Nyuto Onsen. You won’t find any slick ( 0172/32-4151; http://blossom.el2.jp), lo- resort-style hotels here; in fact, many of the cated just a stone’s throw from Hirosaki Sta- baths are housed in ramshackle buildings that tion, is known for the quality of its breakfasts, look ready to fall down. But this is precisely which are included in the price and cooked up the charm, because the experience of soaking in seasonal menus based on local ingredients in the waters here hasn’t changed much for in both Japanese and Western versions. For the last few centuries. It’s also a great step- single travelers looking to save money, they pingstone to local hiking trails and ski areas. also offer an “eco plan” with no breakfast and See p. 27. no in-room amenities (such as toothbrushes) for just ¥5,000 a night. Doubles run from From Nyuto Onsen Village, board any bus ¥12,000. bound for Tazawako Station. From Tazawako, If you’re hungry, Tsunezushi (常寿し) sushi board the JR Shinkansen Komachi train for bar, 9–2 Shinkaji-machi ( 0172/33-1837), is Akita Station. At Akita Station, switch to the JR a local favorite. In addition to the normal nigiri Shinkansen Express Komachi for Hirosaki (3¾ and maki sushi, the specialty is giant-sized hr.). From Hirosaki Station, take the Konan bus “ohmaki” rolls (¥2,415 standard, ¥2,940 to Tsugaru Mountain Pass (see below). deluxe) that are jam-packed with local sea- 4 Shirakami Sanchi (白神山地). If you plant food delicacies—sort of like an entire meal in your flag here, you’ll have bragging rights for a roll. They also have a rudimentary English having seen some of the most remote wilder- > Spring is Japan’s excuse to revel under the menu with pictures, though daily and regional ness and beautiful scenery Japan has to offer. cherry blossoms. specialties are only displayed in Japanese on Overlapping Akita and Aomori prefectures the boards on the wall. Entrees from ¥1,260. three prefectures, is blessed with mountain and extending westward to the Sea of Japan, ranges, lakes, streams, and hot-spring spas. Shirakami Sanchi is centered on a protected It’s geared towards the outdoor enthusiast, forest area that cannot be entered without offering hiking in summer and skiing in winter. counterclockwise in the left lane, which puts a perm t, but the borders feature extensive > One of Shirakami Sanchi’s Anmon waterfalls. hiking trails and overlooks. But the best thing Lake Tazawa (田沢湖), the most easily acces- you on the inside track closer to the lake. From sible part of the park, is a cool drink of water May through September, you can also take a is, its closest point is just a 45-minute drive from the city of Hirosaki, making it accessible during the warmer months. Just 20km (12 40-minute tour of the lake by boat (¥1,170; four Getting to Shirakami Sanchi miles) in circumference, it’s Japan’s deepest launches a day.) even to those who aren’t experienced hikers. lake (a whopping 423m/1,388 ft.), and popular The casual restaurant * Orae is located A visit to Shirakami Sanchi can easily be done The west side of Shirakami Sanchi is only for its small swimming beach a couple minutes’ beside Lake Tazawa, a 15-minute walk coun- as a day trip, but there is a combination camp- accessible by bus; the east can be reached walk from Tazawakohan bus stop. Outside terclockwise from the bus stop or a short ground and a series of rental cottages on-site by train (2K hr. one-way) or via rental car. the swimming season—mid-July through Au- bike ride. It’s a great place to stop for lunch, called Aqua Green Village Anmon. A rental car is highly recommended to give gust—you’ll find nary a soul there. You can rent due in no small part to its on-s te Tazawako While Shirakami Sanchi is filled with fasci- you the freedom to move around the park bicycles here for ¥400 for the first hour and microbrewery (the German Dunkel beer is nating sights—including Tanashiro Swamp, as you please. (From Hirosaki Station, take ¥300 for every add tional hour; mountain bikes very good) and views of the lake from both the Nihon Canyon, and the Juniko Lakes Route 101 east to Route 317; some sections run ¥600 per hour. It takes about 2 hours to its glass-enclosed dining room and outdoor area—if you’re making a day trip, we recom- unpaved.) From June 19 to November 3, the ride around the lake; unfortunately, you have terrace. Tazawako Tourist Information Center: mend aiming for Anmon Falls. Located on the Konan Bus Line (http://konanbus.com/ to share the road with vehicular traffic, but be- Tazawako Station. 0187/43-2111. www.city. west side of the park, the Anmon Falls trail sirakami/sirakami.html) operates a daily cause this is a popular cycling route, motorists semboku.akita.jp. Daily 8:30am–6:30pm. Orae: heads up a valley and past three beautiful wa- Shirakami Line direct bus that departs Hiro- know to keep a lookout. Except for one small 37–5 Haruyama, Tazawako. 0187/58-0608. terfalls, the highest of which plummets more saki’s bus terminal at 8:50 and 9:50am, re- stretch, the road is mostly flat and is pleasantly Entrees from ¥800. No credit cards. Lunch & than 40m (131 ft.) into a gorge. Budget at least turning from the Tsugaru Mountain Pass stop wooded and relatively unspoiled; circle the lake dinner daily. Bus: Tawazakohan. 3 hours for the round trip. at 1:20pm. The cost is ¥2,400 round-trip. 20 tohoku exploring lake towada 21

N A Area of P Map 103 A Exploring J Tokyo 102 6 Lake Towada 4 TOWADA-HACHIMANTAI If you visited the city of Kakunodate (p. 24), you may have NATIONAL PARK taken a day trip to Towada-Hachimantai National Park (p. 17, 2). But many feel the park’s most beautiful aspect lies farther north, on the border between Aomori

s and Akita prefectures. Lake Towada (Towadako in Japanese) is widely considered s a p Towada-Hachimantai’s top scenic gem. It’s certainly one of Japan’s least spoiled y B ase lakes, with only two small villages on its perimeter and encircled by wooded cliffs Oir and mountains. Its remoteness has saved it from the worst of Japan’s runaway 102 102 infrastructure development efforts—but this also makes it difficult to work into an Mt Ohanabe itinerary that covers the other highlights of the area, which is why we’re treating T this very worthy destination separately here. ow a d a

454 Lake Mt Towada Towada 103 Wainai Shrine 1 Lake Towada 2 Shinshuya 7 3 3 Towada Jinja Shrine 454 4 Oirase Stream Hike 1 2 103 Where to Stay & Dine Oirase Keiryu Grand Hotel 6 0 2 mi Towada Hotel 7 02 km Tsuta Onsen 5

marked by capes, inlets, cliffs, and trees that Akita-ken. 0176/75-2425. Cruise: www. put on a spectacular autumn show make it toutetsu.co.jp/jikoku/yuuransen.html. ¥1,400 one of Towada-Hachimantai National Park’s adults, ¥700 kids (¥500 extra if you wish to major draws. The best way to see Towada is sit in the top lounge). Cruises run daily 8am– aboard excursion boats that cruise the wa- 5:20pm; check website for specific times. Bus: ters. Two cruises are available: a 50-minute Yasumiya. > From above, Lake Towada’s volcanic origins become more apparent. cruise that travels between Yasumiya and Nenokuchi (available only from Apr to early 2 Shinshuya (信州屋). This restaurant Nov), and a 45-minute cruise that begins is located on the second floor above a souvenir shop beside the lake. It has an start From Tokyo Station, take the JR and ends at Yasumiya (available year-round). Lake Towada (Towadako; ). This English-language menu, views of Lake Tohoku Shinkansen Yamabiko Line to 1 十和田湖 Many visitors take the boat to Nenokuchi double* caldera was formed some 20,000 Towada, and a convenient location near Hachinohe Station, then switch to a JR bus to (Oirase Stream trail head), send their luggage years ago by a volcanic eruption. Today the the path to Towada Jinja Shrine (see the Yasumiya stop (140 min.). onward, and begin hiking. 50 min. Towada- lake’s 44km (27 miles) of undulating coastline shi, Aomori-ken/Kosakamachi, Kazuno-gun, below). Inaniwa udon (noodles with 22 tohoku exploring lake towada 23

3 Towada Jinja Shrine (十和田神社). Towada Jinja is surrounded by giant cedars and boasts marvelous woodcarvings of animals. But it’s Where to Stay & Dine most remembered for a curious custom: Visi- tors to the shrine buy a fortune, put money or Around Lake Towada rice inside, twist it into the shape of a missile, and then hike 20 minutes up the steep flight Oirase Keiryu Grand Hotel (奥入瀬渓流ホテル) tubs. Meals, served in a communal dining of wooden steps beside the shrine to a scenic oirase The main reason for staying in this room with a mix of Japanese and Western spot. (The last part of the hike is down metal large, rather ordinary hotel is its location on dishes, are substantial. Western-style ladders—only for the adventurous on a rainy Oirase Stream, making it an easy base for breakfasts are available. Kosakamachi, day.) At the top of the climb, you throw your hiking the trail. Buses that traverse the Oirase Towadako Nishi-kohan, Akita. 0176/75-1122. missile into the lake. If it sinks, your wish will stop here, including those that travel to or 50 units, 42 with bathroom, 8 with toilet only. come true. 25 min. 486 Yasumiya. 0176/ from Aomori and Hachinohe Stations, but the Doubles from ¥15,750 per person. Rates include 75-2508. Free. Open 24 hr. Bus: Yasumiya. hotel also offers its own free shuttle bus 2 meals. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: Yasumiya (pickup approximately three times a day from service available from bus terminal). 4 Oirase Stream Hike. Hiking along the ** Hachinohe Station. The hotel is divided into Oirase Stream is the major draw for a trip to Tsuta Onsen (蔦温泉) tsuta onsen two sections: the older, rustic Daiichi Wing ** Lake Towada. A clear-running, gurgling stream This classic north-country inn dates to 1909 with 105 rooms, and the newer Daini Wing that runs 67km (42 miles) on its way from the and is one of Tohoku’s most famous ryokan with 85 (more expensive) rooms. We prefer lake to the Pacific Ocean, it’s at its picture- (traditional inn). Tsuta means “ivy” in the Daini with its lobby overlooking the stream perfect best in Oirase Gorge, where hikers are Japanese, a theme carried out not only in and maple trees and its hard-to-overlook giant treated to some 13 waterfalls, rapids coursing pillars, transoms, and other architectural fireplace sculpture by eccentric Okamoto over moss-covered boulders, and a dense details but also in the dense, surrounding Taro. It offers both Japanese tatami rooms wood of ferns, Japanese beech, oaks, and oth- beech forest. Rooms in the oldest wooden (w th straw mats on the floor, shoji screens, er broad-leaved trees—particularly stunning structure (built in 1918) and an annex (built in and traditional furnishings) and twin rooms, in autumn. A trail runs beside the stream from 1960), both up a long flight of stairs, have about half with views of Oirase Stream. Public Nenokuchi on the lakeshore 14km (8M miles) beautiful wood-carved details and good views hot-spring baths also take advantage of river to Yakeyama. Most hikers, however, go only as but are without bathrooms (they’re also views. Meals are served communally in a far as Ishigedo, hiking the 9km (5M miles) in cheaper). The west wing 1988 addition, with dining room. 231 Aza Tochikubo, Oaza Okuse, > The banks of the Oirase Stream. about 2 hours. (There are kilometer markers gleaming wood floors salvaged from an old Towada-shi, Aomori. 0176/74-2121. 190 units. along the path in English.) The hike upstream ryokan, has an elevator and the convenience of Doubles from ¥13,380 per person. Rates include (toward Nenokuchi) is considered the most toilets, but its rooms lack the character of the mountain vegetables), kiritampo nabe 2 meals. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: Yakeyama. (a one-pot stew consisting of newly picturesque, as it affords a full view of the older rooms. For those who don’t like sleeping harvested rice pounded into a paste and cascading rapids. There are nine bus stops *** Towada Hotel (十和田ホテル) yasumiya on futons, three units offer tatami areas, beds, then charcoal grilled before simmering in on the road beside Oirase Stream, including This imposing, elegant hotel, secluded on a and bathrooms. The hot-spring baths are new chicken broth with vegetables), Towada Nenokuchi, Ishigedo, and Yakeyama. Because wooded hill overlooking the lake (and practical but preserve traditional bathhouse beefsteaks, and fish are just some of the buses run only once an hour or so, you might only if you have your own car), is our top architecture, with high ceilings and cypress local specialties. Once you’ve decided consider taking a bus first and then hiking choice for a splurge on Lake Towada. It was walls. Breakfast is served in a dining room, on your meal, purchase tickets at the back. 2 hr. Free. Bus: Nenokuchi, Ishigedo, or built in 1938 using huge cedar logs in a mix of while dinner is served in your room. Although counter. 16–11 Yasumiya. 0176/75-3131. Yakeyama. Western-lodge-meets-Japanese-temple style, not on the Oirase Stream and not as Entrees from ¥1,000. No credit cards. with a modern addition built years later. conveniently located as the Oirase Keiryu Lunch daily. Bus: Towadako. Although all rooms face the lake, best are the Grand Hotel, the Tsuta is one of a kind and is Getting to Lake Towada elegant Japanese rooms, all in the older part of served by the same JR bus that travels the hotel, with great views. Western-style between Aomori and Lake Towada (it’s about Travel Tip As Lake Towada does not lie anywhere near rooms, though spacious and beautifully a 15-minute bus ride to Yakeyama). It also has a train station, your final journey to the lake designed, do not have as good a view; be sure its own 1-hour hiking trail to a nearby lake. As with most out-of-the-way spots in Ja- must be by car or bus to Yasumiya, a small to ask for a room on the top floor and be sure, Okuse, Aza Tsutanoyu, Towada-shi, Aomori. pan, restaurants are few and far between village on Lake Towada with a tourist office too, to wander over to the older wing for a look 0176/74-2311. www.thuta.co.jp. 50 units, 4 around Lake Towada. Breakfasts and din- and a few accommodations. This is where at its beautiful wood details in the old lobby with bathroom, 20 with toilet only. From ners will be provided by your hotel. On you’ll be staying. The bus winds through (crafted by shrine and temple carpenters). ¥10,650 per person. Rates include 2 meals. AE, the Oirase Gorge trail, a small snack bar scenic, mountainous terrain (which means Public baths have lakeside views and outdoor DC, MC, V. Bus: Tsuta Onsen. at Ishigedo sells ramen noodles, tempura you might want to pack some Dramamine if soba, ice cream, and drinks you get motion sickness). 24 tohoku kakunodate 25

1 Samurai District

2 Aoyagi Samurai Manor

Kakunodate N 3 Inaniwa Korai Udon

A 4 4 Ishiguro Samurai House Kakunodate Tokyo P 5 Kakunodatemachi Denshokan A 3 J Where to Stay Although the castle is long gone, Kakunodate’s castle-town 2 architectural layout remains remarkably intact, with one of the country’s best- Folkloro Kakunodate 6 preserved (though small) samurai districts. It’s also famous for its cherry 5 Ishikawa Ryokan 7 trees, not only in the samurai district but also along the banks of the Hinokinai River, and for its crafts produced from local cherry bark. Yet Kakunodate is an 1 unpretentious village, with only a few of the souvenir and tourist shops that plague other picturesque towns.

Tennei ji Temple

Kakunodate Buddhist Temple 6 Railway

0 200 yds

0 200 m

> Kakunodate’s stately boulevards teem with samurai manors. start Take the train to Kakunodate Station. of vision throughout the district. It’s a strong Kakunodate is 587km (365 miles) north of contrast to the jumble of most Japanese cities, on the right. collected through the ages by the Aoyagi fam- Tokyo. and even to the merchant district that’s just a ily and well documented in English. As you 2 Aoyagi Samurai Manor (角館歴史村青柳 short walk away. *** wander through the buildings, you’ll see samu- 1 Samurai District (武家屋敷通り). Of Kakuno- 家). Of all the houses in Kakunodate’s Samurai If you’re walking from the station, you’ll rai armor, rifles, swords, dolls, kimono, sake date’s 80-some samurai mansions built during District, this is definitely the one to see. An pass several samurai houses in the district cups, ukiyo-e (woodblock prints), scrolls and the Edo Period, only 7 remain. Still, the district impressive entry gate serves as testimony to that are free and open to the public (though screens, Meiji Era uniforms and medals, farm retains its feudal atmosphere to an amazing the Aoyagi family’s high samurai status. This admittance inside is restricted), including tools, antique phonographs, and cameras. degree, thanks to its wide streets flanked is more than a mere manor, however, as it’s the Odano Samurai House to the right, the Other buildings hold shops, a teahouse, and a by weeping cherry trees and dark wooden actually a compound of several traditional Kawarada Samurai House next door, the restaurant. 1 hr. 3 Uramachi, Kakunodate- fences. These fences and traditional entry buildings spread throughout an unkempt Matsumoto Samurai House across the street machi. 0187/54-3257. www.samuraiworld. gates are employed even today to conceal garden, each filled with a wealth of eclectic (where you can usually see craftsmen at work), com. ¥500 adults, ¥300 junior-high and high- more modern homes, giving a clean, crisp line treasures from the 17th to 20th centuries, and the c ty-owned Iwahashi Samurai House school students, ¥200 kids. Daily 9am–5pm 26 tohoku kakunodate 27

(until 4pm in winter). Train: Kakunodate Station. 5 * Kakunodatemachi Denshokan (角館伝承館). This specialty shop and museum A Side Trip to Lake Tazawa and Nyuto Onsen Inaniwa Korai Udon ( 3 稲庭古来堂青柳家 devoted to birch craftsmanship is located Nyuto Onsen-Kyo Village (乳頭温泉郷) who already have familiarized themselves 店). This simple dining room inside the just a couple minutes’ walk from the samurai doesn’t have much in the way of traditional with how to use hot springs at other, more Aoyagi Samurai Manor offers noodle houses on Bukeyashiki Dori. In addition to see- tourist attractions. But what it lacks tourist-focused sorts of places. (There’s dishes, including tempura soba and ing how strips of cherry bark are applied to tea in glitz it makes up for in spades with also a handy guide to onsen etiquette on p. inaniwa udon (noodles with mountain canisters, boxes, vases, and other goods in live tradition and atmosphere. Often used as 42.) Some of the outdoor baths are mixed vegetables). 3 Uramachi, Kakunodate- demonstrations by local craftsmen, you can a backdrop for movies, television dramas, gender; feel free to wrap an extra towel machi. 0187/52-8015. Inaniwa udon tour a museum devoted to the craft. The mu- and documentaries, it’s located in a cozy around yourself f you’re shy. (But never, ¥960. No credit cards. Lunch daily (but seum also features displays of samurai outfits mountain valley. The “village” consists of a ever wear a bathing suit or underwear into only on weekends in winter). Train: Kaku- and items that once belonged to the Kaku- handful of spartan little inns (with adjacent the springs.) As with a lot of out-of-the-way nodate Station. nodate feudal lord, as well as everyday items all-natural hot springs) located over several places such as this, there isn’t much in the used by common people such as straw rain- 4 Ishiguro Samurai House (石黒家). In kilometers, all within an easy hike or bike way of restaurants. Meals are generally contrast** to the Aoyagi Samurai Manor, this gear and geta ice skates. There’s a large col- ride of each other. Relaxing in their milky served up by the inn at which you’re staying. thatched-roof home next door remains almost lection of wonderful photos of days long past therapeutic waters, mingling with other While breakfasts and dinners are included, exactly as it might have looked when it was as well. And of course, you can also browse for visitors from around Japan, and sampling lunches are charged separately, giving constructed 200 years ago by the Ishiguro cherry-bark products in its large shop. 1 hr. the local cuisine are the reasons people you an opportunity to get out and try the samurai family. After the Meiji Restoration, the Omotemachi 10-1 Shimocho. 0187/54-1700. come to out-of-the-way “secret spas” such cuisine of neighboring inns. A handful of family became landlords and collected rice as ¥300 adults, ¥150 kids. Daily 9am–5pm (until as this. While Nyuto Onsen (onsen means inns allow guests to cook for themselves, rent. Today, English-speaking, 12th-generation 4:30pm in winter). Train: Kakunodate Station. “spa”) isn’t as inaccessible as it once was, making them appealing for budget travelers Ishiguro Naotsugi continues to live here; he it is about as far off the beaten path as you who want to bring in their own food, but we has opened five simple but elegant rooms to Kakunodate or Semboku? can get with public transportation. While recommend spending the extra for the meals the public in the main house. Family heirlooms, the area is stunningly beautiful in the winter, prepared by the inns themselves, which are Technically speaking, Kakunodate merged including samurai gear, winter geta (fur-lined we recommend visiting during the warmer often excellent examples of regional rural with the town of Tazawako and another or spiked sandals), scales for weighing rice, months if it is your first time here. This is cuisine. In addition to the inns listed below, village to form a new administrative city and old maps of Kakunodate, are on display in both because it’s generally easier to get the waters of Oogama Onsen ( 0187/46- called Semboku in 2005, but for clarity’s a former warehouse. 30 min. Omotemachi. around and because the rooms can get 2438), Magoroku Onsen ( 0187/46-2224), sake, we refer to Kakunodate and Tazawa- 0187/55-1496. ¥300 adults, ¥150 kids. Daily quite cold at night, which is typical for rustic and Kuroyu Onsen ( 0187/46-2214) are all ko by their historic and popular names. 9am–5pm. Train: Kakunodate Station. Japanese inns but can be a shock to those worth dropping by if you’re in the mood for used to central heating or warmer climes. daytime “spa hopping.” Nyuto Onsen is recommended for those Where to Stay in Kakunodate

Folkloro Kakunodate (フォルクローロ角館) Ishikawa Ryokan (石川旅館) Little English is spoken at this JR-affiliated One of Kakunodate’s oldest ryokan, open since hotel, but its location next to Kakunodate the Edo Period and now in ts fifth generation Station and its simple but clean, modern, and of innkeepers, Ishikawa now occupies a dated inexpensive Western-style rooms make it a building constructed in 1920. Although cor- logical choice for a 1-night stopover, especially ridors suggest the ordinary, the Japanese-style if you have a Japan Rail Pass, which gives a rooms are simple but w th nice wood details. 10% discount. Only two types of rooms are And the elderly owners are every bit as self-ef- available: 11 twins and 15 deluxe twin family facing and hospitable to guests as their ances- rooms that sleep up to four. Note, however, tors must have been to traveling samurai and that the family rooms, with twin beds and two other high officials. Though they don’t speak sleeper sofas, seem cramped for four but are English, they make your stay here a real treat. roomy for two. 14 Nakasuga-sawa. 0187/53- Meals, should you opt for them, are served in 2070. 26 units. Doubles from ¥12,600. Rates your room. 32 Iwasemachi. 0187/54-2030. 11 include breakfast buffet. AE, DC, MC, V. Train: units. Doubles from ¥6,500 per person without Kakunodate Station. meals; ¥13,500 per person with 2 meals. No credit cards. Train: Kakunodate Station. 28 tohoku tono 29

2 3

A Tono P 4 A Tono J Tokyo This otherwise unassuming little countryside town is 5 famed throughout Japan as a repository of domestic folklore. It’s particularly

well known for its legends involving the mythological creatures known as 340 kappa. Although it doesn’t have the large-scale tourist attractions of bigger cities, what it does have is a taste of life in the countryside long before cars, Gosha computers, and the trappings of modern society came along. Hachiman jinja Shrine

Tono Bypass

Tono 9 283 8 283

1 Kamaishi Hwy Nambu jinja 7 Chion ji Shrine Temple Atago jinja Shrine 6

1 Tono Municipal Museum Where to Stay & Dine 2 Buddhist Temple Tono Folk Village Folkloro Tono 8 Shinto Shrine 3 Tono Folk Village Visitor Center Ghenghis Khan House Tono 4 Denshoen Shokuniku Center 9 0 1/2 mi 5 Joken ji Temple Minshuku Magariya 7

0 0 5 km 6 Gohyakurakan > Rice dries after the harvest in a Tono field. Kamitsukimoushi, Tsukimoushi-cho. adults, ¥310 high-school students and younger; start Take the train to Tono Station. Tono is Village. Daily 9am–5pm. Closed last day of every 0198/64-2300. www.tono-furusato.jp. ¥500 ¥520 combo ticket including entrance to Tono 554km (344 miles) north of Tokyo. month and Mon Nov–Mar. Train: Tono Station. Municipal Museum. Daily 9am–5pm (last entry 1 * Tono Municipal Museum 2 * Tono Folk Village (遠野ふるさと村). The 4pm). Bus: Tono Furusato Mura. (遠野市立博物館). Located just outside of Tono most recent of several replica villages in Tono, Getting Around Tono Station, this is a fun little facility that focuses the Folk Village is so realistic that it is often 3 Tono Folk Village Visitor Center. Not We highly recommend either using taxis or on local traditions and handicrafts. One of used as a backdrop for television shows and only is the Tono Folk Village well worth a renting a car here, as bus service is quite our favorite things about the museum is the films. It is home to six magariya (traditional visit, but the restaurant in its visitor cen- spotty, but there’s another option as well. If theater, which screens animated documenta- L-shaped farmhouses unique to the Tohoku ter is an excellent way to acquaint your- you’re the sort who doesn’t mind getting a ries about local folk tales (all in Japanese, but region; see “Where to Stay & Dine,” p. 31) self with local Tono cuisine. Our personal little exercise, renting a bike is a fun way to simple enough to understand visually). that were relocated here from around Tono. favorite set meal is the sansai teishoku get around the various sights. Rent them at 30 min. 3-9 Higashidate-cho. 0198/62- Regular programs at the village involve re-en- (¥1,260), which features locally picked the Tono Tourism Association ( 0198/62- 2340. ¥310 adults, ¥210 high-school students, actments of trad tional farming methods and wild vegetables served as tempura, atop 1333), which is open from 8am to 5pm be- ¥150 junior-high students and younger; ¥520 tools. The on-site restaurant is a great way tofu, and in a broth. 5–89–1 Kamitsukimo- tween April 1 and October 15, and 8:30am combo ticket including entrance to Tono Folk to taste some local cuisine. 1K hr. 5–89–1 ushi, Tsukimoushi-cho. 0198/64-2300. to 5pm from October 16 through March. www.tono-furusato.jp. Sansai teishoku 30 tohoku tono 31

spot deep in the forest is filled with 500 mossy stones carved into Buddhist effigies by a monk Where to Stay & Dine in Tono in the 1760s. They honor the victims of a local famine. A serene yet somewhat eerie sort of place, many strange supernatural phenomena have been reported here over the years, such as

> The Folkloro Tono hotel is conveniently located right above the train station. > A traditional mask on display at Denshoen.

hearing voices or visitors becoming temporar- Ghenghis Khan House Tono Shokuniku Center ¥1,260. No credit cards. Lunch daily. Bus: ily frozen in place. 1 hr. Nissato, Ayaori-cho. mongolian Located about 3km (1¾ miles) from Tono Furusato Mura. Free. Daily sunrise–sunset. Bus: Tono Eigyosho. the station, this is a great choice for carnivores. It 4 Denshoen (伝承園). This outdoor museum specializes in serving up cutlets of sheep that you * Folkloro Tono (フォルクローロ遠野) will get you better acquainted with regional cook yourself tableside. Other meats such as beef Located right atop Tono Station and run by folklore and culture: In addition to several and pork are available as well. Everything is locally Japan Railways, this is about as convenient relocated magariya, it hosts regular storytell- sourced from Iwate prefecture’s many farms, so as it gets. It’s also a standard Western-style ing events (in a charmingly thick local dialect the qual ty is excellent. 20–13–1 Shiraiwa, Matsusa- hotel, useful for those who may be a little ner- impenetrable to many Japanese) and re-cre- ki-cho. 0198/62-2242. www.tononamaram.com. Meet the Kappa vous at diving headfirst into super-traditional ations by locals, such as how to farm or how to Set lunches from ¥780; entrees from ¥1,250. No places like the Minshuku Magariya (see be- make silk and handicrafts. 1 hr. 6–5–1 Tsuchi- Kappa are a type of yokai—the Japanese credit cards. Train: Tono Station. low). In spite of its location near the station, buchi, Tsuchibuchi-cho. 0198/62-8655. www. term for mythological folklore creatures. this is a quiet sort of place (particularly if Minshuku Magariya ( ) densyoen.jp. ¥310 adults, ¥210 junior-high stu- Roughly the size of a child, kappa are am- 民宿曲り屋 you get a room facing away from the tracks) It*** doesn’t get any more trad tional than this. Opened dents and younger. Daily Apr–Dec 9am–4:30pm; phibious humanoids once believed to dwell with surprisingly large rooms by Japanese in 1970 inside a century-plus-old magariya farm- Jan–Mar 9am–4pm. Bus: Senzokukawa. in bodies of freshwater throughout Japan. Their characteristics include slimy, frog- standards. 5–7 Shinkokucho. 0198/62-0700. house and run by descendents of the original owner, Joken-ji Temple ( ). Across 5 常堅寺、カッパ淵 like skin; tortoiseshell backs; and dishlike www folkloro.jp/tohno. 16 units. Doubles from it is filled with antiques and brimming local charm the* street from Denshoen, this humble little indentations atop their head that remain ¥12,600; ¥1,050 discount for stays longer than and hospitality. Elaborate meals prepared in a local temple isn’t particularly thrilling visually, but filled with water even when they are on 2 days. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. style are served to the group at a sunken hearth. All it does happen to be located right next to land. Should the dishes spill for any rea- Train: Tono Station. rooms are tatami, without bathrooms; guests share Kappabuchi, a brook said to be home to the son, they’re powerless. Hobbies include the same baths and toilet facilities. The common kappa—those mischievous monsters from challenging passersby to sumo wrestling area is heated by a roaring fire, so f you’re sens tive Japanese folklore (see right). Don’t be sur- Staying in a Magariya matches and giving swimmers impromptu to smoke, you may find the air in the rooms a l ttle prised if you happen across little kids (and colonoscopies with their webbed fingers. Tono is known as one of the few places cloying, but this is an only-in-Tohoku experience that even an adult or two) trying to catch one They also happen to love cucumbers— in Japan where magariya, or traditional is not to be missed. Be aware that they do not allow with makeshift fishing rods made out of cu- which is why cucumber roll sushi is called northern-style L-shaped farmhouses, kids 15 and under to stay here. 30–58–3 Niisato, cumbers tied to the end of a string. 20 min. kappa maki. If you’d like to try your luck survive. Several are on display at local Ayaori-cho. 0198/62-4564. www.tonotv.com/ 7–50 Tsuchibuchi, Tsuchibuchi-cho. Free. Daily finding one, you can purchase a kappa- museums, and if you’re feeling adventur- members/magariya. ¥8,580 per person (¥10,500 8:30am–4:30pm. Bus: Senzokukawa. catching license at any of the town muse- ous, you can even try spending the night per person Dec 30–Jan 5), including 2 meals. No credit cards. Train: Tono Station. 6 ** Gohyakurakan (五百羅漢). This holy ums’ gift shops. in one. 32 1 Tokyo. of north miles) (227 365km is Sendai start > deck remains a great way to take in the entire entire the in to take way agreat remains deck Sendai Trust Tower, nearby to the Sendai in building tallest of tle t

Ichibancho Arcade isoneofSendai’s largest shoppingareas. Although small in comparison to sprawling megalopolises Sendai powerful powerful 17 early the In foot. on to traverse easy station, the of side west the on attractions most with and compact, is area downtown Its prefecture. Miyagi of capital Tohokuthe in and city largest the is Sendai residents, amillion over just with like Tokyo Osaka, or of his clan’s castle. clan’s his of ruins the and shrines, statues, various of form the in today city the over felt be AER Building. AER Take the train to Sendai Station. Station. Sendai to Take train the tohoku daimyo Although it recently lost the the lost recently it Although the AER’s observation observation AER’s the (warlord) named Daté Masamune, whose influence can still can influence whose Masamune, Daté (warlord) named th century, the city and environs were the domain of a of domain the were environs and city the century, th what sort of view you’re after. after. you’re view of sort what on depending evening, or morning the for visit your to time free feel station; the from walk minutes’ afew just located It’s aglance. at city Chuo, Aoba-ku. Aoba-ku. Chuo, 10:30am–8pm. Train: Sendai Station. Sendai Train: 10:30am–8pm. 022/723-8000. Free. Daily Daily Free. 022/723-8000. 20 min.

1–3–1 1–3–1

1 AER Bui ding N 2 Asaichi Dori A Sendai 3 Zuihoden Ha Kotodaikoen P A Atago-Kamisugi Dori J Sen-en Hwy Tokyo Where to Stay 45 Dormy nn Sendai 4 Jozenji Dori Library Hote Higashi-Nibancho 5 5

Hirose Dori 4 1 Nishi Koen Dori Hirosedori Nishi Park Sendai-Nishi Rd Bansui Dori Aobadori Sendai

Sendai Aoba Dori 4 2

Minami-machi Dori Shindera Dori

Itsutsubashi Dori

Kitame Machi Dori sendai Rai way

Subway Zuiho-ji Tourist nfo Temple Itsutsubashi

0 1/4 mi

3 33 0 0.25 km 34 tohoku sendai 35

through midnight) is also a nice touch. There Asaichi Dori ( ). Also known as “Sen- Library Hotel Higashi-Nibancho ( 2 朝市ライブラリー is a second Library Hotel, the Ekimae, right dai’s* kitchen,” this shopping street is open all ** ) sendai So named for its library ホテル東二番丁 in front of Sendai Station. 2–15–10 Honcho, day long. Popular with Japanese tourists, its of books that guests can borrow, this centrally Aoba-ku. 022/221-7666. www.libraryhotel. 70 stalls and shops feature a wide variety of located boutique hotel offers clean, modern jp. 230 units. Doubles from ¥11,000 per person; local and regional foods and products. While elegance within a stone’s throw of Sendai only ¥2,000 per kid (elementary student and the emphasis is on produce and such—mean- Station. More than half of the rooms are non- younger) staying with adults. Breakfast buffet ing there isn’t a lot of souvenir shopping to be smoking, a rarity in Japan. All rooms offer free ¥1,000 extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Train: Kotodaikoen done—it is a great window into Japanese culi- Wi-Fi. The free coffee in the lobby (from 2pm Station. nary culture. The nearby Ichibancho Arcade, located just north of the morning market, is a similar series of covered shopping streets that represent one of the largest shopping complexes in Tohoku. The shops range from “everything ¥100” budget stores to high-end boutiques.

3 Zuihoden Hall (瑞鳳殿). Although it isn’t quite** as over-the-top as Nikko’s Toshogu Shrine (p. 37, 2), which was built in honor of the shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, this opulent mausoleum for Daté Masamune is another standout, with bold colors and designs set against a sylvan backdrop. Although the main building is a reconstruction (the original burned down during World War II), the grounds are a stunning example of the “funer- al architecture” used for Japanese warlords. The “campus” consists of five main structures: the Honden (main hall), the Haiden (prayer hall), the Karamon (gate), the Gokusho (hall for offerings), and the Nehanmon (gate). 2 hr. 23–2 Otamayashita, Aoba-ku. 022/262- 6250. www.zuihoden.com. Feb 1–Nov 30 daily A Side Trip to Matsushima 9am–4:30pm; Dec 1–Jan 31 daily 9am–4pm. ¥550 adults, ¥400 high-school students, If you have time to spend another night in Line to Hon-Shiogama Station (20 min.). ¥200 junior-high students and younger. Bus: Sendai, or even as an alternate itinerary to From Hon-Shiogama, take a right out of the Otamayahashi. the Sendai tour, we highly recommend taking station, cross the street, turn right at the first a side trip to the city of Matsushima, located red light (crossing under the tracks), and > The center of Sendai. to the north of Sendai. Matsushima means continue straight on to the pier. Tickets for the “pine-clad islands”—and that’s exactly what hour-long ferry to Matsushima Kaigan Pier the area is. More than 260 pine-covered cost ¥1,400 for adults and ¥1,260 for kids; islets and islands dot Matsushima Bay; the the boats leave every half-hour from 9am to complex terrain actually acted as a natural 3:30pm (until 3pm Dec–Mar). Try to ignore buffer during the 2011 tsunami, sparing the the unfortunately located power station that Where to Stay & Dine in Sendai area from the extensive damage that occurred mars the early part of the cruise; the rest is elsewhere. This is considered one of the most fairly uninterrupted nature. Note the oyster Dormy Inn Sendai (ドーミーイン仙台) sendai about, there’s free Wi-Fi in rooms and a com- beautiful views in Japan, and the best way to rafts as you pass through the bay: The shell- For those on a budget, it’s hard to beat the munal (gender-segregated) Japanese-style see it is by boat. fish are a local delicacy. There are a variety of convenience and price of this no-frills busi- bath on the top floor.2–10–17 Chuo, Aoba-ku. Make your first stop the tourist information temples and sights within walking distance of ness hotel. Rooms are tiny but clean, and the 022/715-7077. 148 units. Doubles from center at Sendai Station, open daily from 8am, the Matsushima Kaigan Pier, making this a full staff is helpful. While the Spartan decor and ¥12,074. Breakfast ¥1,100 extra per person. AE, to pick up a free map of the Matsushima area and fun day trip. You can also overnight here. cramped bathrooms are nothing to write home DC, MC, V. Train: Sendai Station. and ferry timetables. Take the local JR Senseki 36 north kanto nikko 37

I na ri 3 R 2 iv e Nikko r 4 1 hway There is an old Japanese saying that goes, “You can’t say antic Hig Rom n ‘kekko’ [‘perfect’] until you’ve seen Nikko”—a reputation largely driven by ho Ni TamoTamozawa Toshogu, the final resting place of legendary shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu and Da Imperial VillaVilla ya River Sacred Bridge iya River ai hands down the most opulent shrine in all of Japan. In addition to the shrine, D (Shinkyo) Nikko 5 there are more than enough worthy sights to keep a visitor occupied for several Botanical Ni Garden hon Ro days here. But that said, the launch of Tobu Railway’s direct Nikko Kegon Line ma ntic Hi ghw makes it easier than ever to see Nikko in a single (very full) day trip from Tokyo. Nikko-Utsono ay miya R Tobu Nikko Plan on 4 to 5 hours for round-trip transportation. d

JR Nikko 1 Rinno-ji Temple

2 Toshogu Shrine N 3 Futarasan Shrine A P A Nikko Where to Stay & Dine J Tokyo Gyoshin-Tei 4 0 1/4 mi Turtle Inn 5 0 0.25 km Steps

and garden. Daily Apr–Oct 8am–5pm; Nov–Mar erected a group of buildings more elaborate 8am–4pm. Train: Nikko Station. and gorgeous than any other Japanese temple or shrine, then or since. Rich in colors and 2 Toshogu Shrine (日光東照宮). The most carvings, Toshogu Shrine is gilded w th over important*** and famous structure in Nikko was 2 million sheets of gold leaf (they could cover originally built by second Tokugawa shogun an area of almost 2.4 hectares/6 acres). The Tokugawa Hidetada and greatly expanded by mausoleum was completed in 1636, almost 20 the third shogun, his son Tokugawa Iem tsu, years after Ieyasu’s death, and houses his re- as an act of devotion to the first shogun, mains; it was most certainly meant to impress Tokugawa Ieyasu. No expense was too great in anyone who saw it as a demonstration of the creating the monument: Some 15,000 artists Tokugawa shogunate’s wealth and power. The and craftspeople were brought to Nikko from densely layered architectural detail rewards all over Japan, and after 2 years’ work, they time spent contemplating it, revealing new

> Crossing the Sacred Bridge. Travel Tip JR rail passes won’t work on the private Tobu They’re available at the Tobu Sightseeing start From Tokyo’s Asakusa Station, take Shoyo-en Garden, opposite Sanbutsudo Hall, Railway lines, but Tobu offers several passes Service Center or the Tobu travel agency in Tobu Railway’s Nikko Line to Nikko Station was completed in 1815. Typical of Japanese of its own for foreign visitors to Nikko. The Asakusa Station ( 03/3841-2871; www. (2 hr.). landscaped gardens of the Edo Period, this All Nikko Pass (¥4,400 adults, ¥2,210 kids) tobu.co.jp.). small strolling garden provides a different 1 Rinno-ji Temple (日光山輪王寺). Located gives unlimited access to all public transpor- Some caveats: The passes are limited to vista with each turn of the path, making it just** beyond the iconic, bright-red Shinkyo tation associated with Nikko, including the foreign visitors (Japanese citizens can’t pur- seem much larger than it is. There is also a (Sacred Bridge) across the rushing Daiyagawa ride there from Tokyo, local buses, and local chase them), they are limited to local or rapid small “treasure house,” where relics are dis- River, this temple was founded by the priest train lines, for 4 days. Meanwhile, the World trains (which are slower than the limited ex- played on a rotating basis. Rinno-ji is undergo- Shodo in the 8th century, long before the Heritage Pass (¥3,600 adults, ¥1,700 kids) press or express; you can ride those by paying ing renovations until 2017, and may be inac- Toshogu (2) was built. The temple’s Sanbu- covers the train ride from Tokyo, local buses, an additional ¥1,000 each way), and you can’t cessible at times, but the grounds will remain tsudo Hall enshrines three 8.4m-high (28-ft.) and basic admission to Toshogu Shrine, get off at any stations outside of the free zone open. 1 hr. 2300 Sannai. 0288/54-0531. gold-plated wooden images of Buddha. The Futarasan Shrine, and Rinno-ji Temple. specified by the passes. ¥400 for Sanbutsudo, ¥300 for treasure house 38 north kanto nikko 39

Spending the Night in Nikko > The beautiful garden at Futarasan Shrine. The excellent, nonsmoking * Turtle Inn (タートルイン) pension, 8–28 Takumi-cho ( 0288/53-3663; www.turtle-nikko. com), is located within walking distance of Toshogu Shrine in a newer two-story house on a quiet side street beside the Daiyagawa River. The friendly owner, Mr. Fukuda, speaks English and is very helpful in planning sightseeing itineraries. Rooms are bright and cheerful in both Japanese and Western styles; the five tatami rooms are without bathrooms. Excellent Japanese dinners (served on local Mashiko pottery) are available for ¥2,100, as are Western breakfasts for ¥1,050. Dinner must be ordered the day before; note that it’s not available on Sundays, Tuesdays, or Thursdays. Doubles are ¥12,400; ¥300 extra per person in peak season. Besides eating at the Turtle Inn, another option is Gyoshin-Tei (尭心亭), 2339–1 San- nai ( 0288/53-3751), a lovely Japanese restaurant with a simple tatami room and a view of pines, moss, and bonsai. It serves two kinds of set meals—kaiseki and Bud- dhist vegetarian cuisine—both of which change monthly and include the local spe- > A statue of shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu. cialty, yuba, a paper-thin tofu dish produced only in Kyoto and Nikko. Even if you’re a devoted carnivore, the Buddhist vegetar- animals and creatures every time you look. ian course is a real treat, offering a wide The shrine is a 30-minute walk or a 10-minute variety of tiny dishes ranging from sweet to bus ride (to Shinkyo or Nishi Sando) from savory, and all so good you won’t even miss Nikko Station. Like Rinno-ji, Toshogu is being the beef. The one drawback is the restau- extensively renovated until 2017. While some rant’s hard-to-find location, but it’s only a of it may be covered or inaccessible at any 4-minute walk northeast of Rinno-ji Temple given time, the grounds will be open to the (p. 36, 1). Reservations recommended. public all the while. 2 hr. 2301 Sannai. Vegetarian/kaiseki set menus are ¥3,990 to 0288/54-0560. ¥1,300. Daily Apr–Oct 8am– ¥5,775; a set lunch menu is ¥3,150. 5pm; Nov–Mar 8am–4pm. Train: Nikko Station. Futarasan Shrine ( ). Di- 3 日光二荒山神社 wooden structure. According to legend, it rectly** to the west of Toshogu Shrine is the used to come alive at night and sweep around oldest building in the district (from 1617), Nikko in the form of a ghost. It apparently which has a pleasant garden and is dedicated scared one guard so much that he struck it to the gods of mountains surrounding Nikko. with his sword 70 times; the marks are still You’ll find miniature shrines dedicated to the visible on the lamp’s rim. Entrance to the min- god of fortune, god of happiness, god of trees, iature shrines and ghost lantern is ¥200 extra. god of water, and god of good marriages. On 2307 Sannai. 0288/54-0535. Free. Daily the shrine’s grounds is the so-called “ghost sunrise–sunset. Train: Nikko Station. lantern,” enclosed in a small vermilion-colored 40 north kanto kusatsu & ikaho onsen 41

Buddhist Temple Shirane N Shinto Shrine Shrine A P A Kusatsu J Kusatsu & Nikko ji Tokyo Temple 5 Kosen ji 1 4 Ikaho Onsen Temple 3 While frequent earthquakes are the negative result of 2 Japan’s location in the middle of an active volcanic belt, there is a positive side: namely, the more than 3,000 natural hot springs scattered around the country. The tiny onsen (spa town) of Kusatsu Onsen, nestled in the northwest corner

of Gunma prefecture, is considered one of the finest. Although less famous, its 292 292 neighbor Ikaho Onsen is another fantastic place to have a traditional Japanese onsen experience. We recommend 2 days for this tour, but if you have time for 1 Yubatake 6 only 1, use it to relax in Kusatsu Onsen. 2 Netsunoyu 3 Otakinoyu 4 Sainokawara Rotenburo 0 1/4 mi 5 Matsumura Manju 6 Ikaho Onsen 0 0 25 km

cauldron. The gourd-shaped pool was designed by artist Okamoto Taro. The Yubatake is a 5-minute walk from the bus terminal. 10 min. Bus: JR Line to Kusatsu Onsen.

2 Netsunoyu (熱の湯). Next to the Yu- batake,** this facil ty features shows demonstrat- ing yumomi, a trad tional method of cooling the springs’ boiling-hot waters. During these unusual performances, two rows of women use long, thin paddles to churn the water in rhythm, while singing “Kusatsu Bushi,” a folk song. Tourists are invited to join in and help w th the stirring, but the songs are best left to the ladies. 30 min. 414 Kusatsu. 027/988-3613. ¥500. Shows daily at 10am, 10:30am, 11am, 3:30pm, and 4pm. Bus: JR Line to Kusatsu Onsen.

> Water, water, everywhere, flowing in and out of Kusatsu Onsen’s Yubatake. 3 Otakinoyu (大滝乃湯). The traditional style** of bathing in the Kusatsu Onsen area is called awase-yu, and involves acclimating start From Ueno Station in Tokyo, board the water all year round. Seven wooden aqueducts yourself to the heat by soaking in a series of Toki Shinkansen bullet train to Naganohara- channel and simultaneously cool the water en progressively warmer pools. This popular public Kusatsuguchi Station (150 min.). Then ride route to the town’s many public baths, ryokan, bathhouse (the name means “Great Waterfall the JR bus line for 30 minutes and get off at and homes. The fountainhead gushes up to Hot Spring”) features various hot tubs, each Kusatsu Onsen. 4,000L (1,000 gal.) of piping-hot geothermal filled with water of different temperatures, ac- > Ikaho Onsen’s 300m (985 ft.) answer to the water per minute and creates a particularly cented w th miniature waterfalls that reflect the 1 Yubatake (湯畑). This impressive natural StairMaster. memorable sight in winter, when the steam bathhouse’s namesake. Tip: There are special “hot** water field” supplies Kusatsu w th boiling rising from the surface resembles that of a giant hours for ladies in the lower baths, so check 42 north kanto kusatsu & ikaho onsen 43

are separate baths for men and women, but thanks to the onsen’s location halfway up a hill, it’s possible for hikers to peer into the men’s side (sorry, guys). The bath’s milky- white waters are extremely popular, so be prepared to encounter crowds at peak times. It’s a 5-minute walk from the Yubatake along an old-fashioned shopping street lined with shops and food stalls. 45 min. 521–3 Oaza Kusatsu. ¥500. Daily Apr–Nov 1am–8pm; Dec– Mar 9am–8pm (last entry 7:30pm). Bus: JR Line to Kusatsu Onsen.

5 Matsumura Manju (松むら饅頭). Some** locals claim that the onsen manju— flat, circular buns filled with sticky-sweet anko (adzuki-bean paste)—at this shop west of the Yubatake are the best in the city. They’re haltingly sweet, but just short of cloying. 389 Kusatsu. 0279/ 88-2042. Buns ¥80. Wed–Mon 7am– Mount Shirane > Sing and stir: The yumomi demonstrations at Kusatsu Onsen’s Netsunoyu are perennially popular. 6pm. Bus: JR Line to Kusatsu Onsen. If you visit Kusatsu Onsen between April From Kusastsu Onsen, take the JR bus to and November, a side trip to nearby Mount in advance. It’s a 15-minute walk from the Yu- Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi Station. Get on Shirane (白根火山) is a must. Located a mere Onsen Dos and Donts batake. 30 min. 596–13 Kusatsu. 0279/88- the JR Agatsuma train to Shibukawa (45 35-minute bus ride from Kusatsu Onsen, this min.). From there, take the Gunma bus and cluster of volcanoes offers excellent opportu- Although in everyday l fe, the Japanese tend 2600. www.kusatsu.ne jp/otaki/otaki. ¥800 get off at Ikaho Onsen (30 min.). nities for hiking. The most popular route leads to be reserved and quite shy, the onsen (tra- adults, ¥400 kids. Daily 9am–9pm (last entry from the Shirane Rest House around Yugama, ditional spa) is one place where they really 8pm). Bus: JR Line to Kusatsu Onsen. 6 Ikaho Onsen. At the northeastern foot of the area’s famous turquoise crater lake. The let their hair down. Japanese people have no Mount Haruna, Ikaho Onsen is a hot spring re- 4 Sainokawara Rotenburo (西の河原露天 300m-wide (985-ft.) body of water sparkles problem stripping down and settling into a tub *** sort located on a highland rising approximately 風呂). Tucked into the woods of Sainokawara like a giant jewel in the middle of the dry, vol- of hot water with perfect strangers. With the 800m (2,625 ft.) above sea level, in the central Park, this expansive outdoor bath affords canic terrain. exception of very few mixed bathing areas, part of Gunma. The level of sulfate and carbonic fabulous views of the tree-covered mountains The lookout point can be reached after bathing suits are not only unnecessary, they’re acid in its water is so high that t sometimes dyes (especially pretty in the fall and winter, when an easy 15-minute walk, but visitors are prohibited. While this may take some getting towels red. The Ikaho stone steps (伊香保石段 the hills are blanketed in snow). Measuring a * not allowed to venture down to the lake’s used to at first, your self-consciousness will 街), a 300m (985-ft.) stone staircase, form the formidable 435 sq. m (4,700 sq. ft.), it’s the shore. The trails are only open from June to soon melt away in the soothing hot water. main street running through the center of the largest open-air bath in Kusatsu, with room mid-October; buses do not operate in the First things first: Before even going near the town. The street is lined with shops and tradi- for more than 100 bathers at a time. There winter. The buses run infrequently and stop baths, be sure to soap up and rinse off thor- tional ryokan, and four observation points along early, so be sure to check the schedule care- oughly in the shower rooms that precede the the way allow you to follow the flow of the hot fully. The JR bus line from Kusatsu Onsen to bathing areas. Baths in ryokan will provide you water underground as it makes its way to each A Splash of Art Shirane-Kazan costs ¥1,100. with soap, shampoo, and an array of other fun inn. At the top you'll find the dark, wooden Ikaho beauty products, but public baths frequently The Hara Museum ARC, 2855-1 Kanai, Shrine, where the Ikaho Matsuri festival is held do not. The pools are very hot (usually above Shibukawa-shi,** Gunma ( 0279/24-6585; every September. A short walk (250m/820 ft.) When you're all finished walking,make your 108°F/42°C), so before taking the plunge, www.haramuseum.or.jp), an annex to the Hara along a road to the right of the staircase will lead way to the large outdoor bath of ** Ikaho splash yourself with water from the tubs to Contemporary Art Museum in Tokyo located you to Kajika Bridge, a gently curved, red bridge Rotenburo (伊香保露天風呂), divided in half by warm up. in Ikaho, is a small but excellent museum that’s straight out of a picture book on Japan. Ikaho temperature: One side is piping hot, and the Do smile and be friendly, but don’t bring definitely worth a visit between hot tub soaks. Onsen’s distinctive iron-rich water flows beneath other pleasantly tepid. 1K hr. Rotenburo: 581 your towel into the bath with you. After soak- Opened in 2008, the Kankai Pavilion showcases this bridge en route to the town's many onsen Ikaho-yumoto. 0279/72-2488. ¥450. Daily ing, don’t rinse off: You’ll wash away all of the paintings, calligraphy, and ceramic ware from spas and can be tasted from a water fountain on Oct–Mar 9am–6pm; Apr–Sept 9am–7pm. Closed beneficial minerals. the Hara Rokuro Collection of East Asian art. the side of the road. The steps are a 10-minute 1st and 3rd Thurs of each month. Bus: Gunma walk from the bus terminal. Line to Ikaho Onsen. 44 kanto tokyo 45

basements,” are treasure troves of little culinary delicacies. They’re packed with shops specializing in all sorts of raw ingredients and Tokyo ready-to-eat foods, and also a great spot to pick up gourmet Japanese-style bento (boxed Rebuilt from the ground up numerous times over the last lunches). Isetan in Shinjuku has one of the century, Tokyo’s towering skyscrapers, neon signs, and startlingly efficient train city’s best depa-chika. system can make time spent there seem like a visit to the future. Yet ancient 6 Picnicking like an emperor in the Imperial charms still lurk beneath the city’s high-tech facade, if you know where to Gardens. The Imperial Palace’s surprisingly look. Dotted with parks and museums, fascinating architecture traditional and uncrowded East Garden is a tranquil place to modern, and retail establishments catering to every conceivable niche, there’s stop and enjoy a boxed lunch purchased from a nearby vendor or convenience store. something here for everyone. 7 Browsing for books in Jimbocho. This street of used-book stores is paradise for biblio- philes. Only a few specialize in English texts, but even those that don’t are fascinating to poke through. Try Maruzen for starters. 8 Soaking your troubles away in an urban hot spring. Oedo Onsen Monogatari might not be the nation’s most traditional, but it’s a great way for novices to get their feet wet in the world of onsen (traditional spas). 9 Getting lost in Meiji Jingu. Deep inside the cypress grove that lines the approach to Meiji > The Mode Gakuen Cocoon Tower is one of Shinjuku’s more distinctive skyscrapers. Jingu, Tokyo’s most storied Shinto shrine, you’ll forget you’re inside one of the world’s largest cities. happens to be one of Tokyo’s big date spots. Finding your fashion on Takeshita Dori. For a Shopping till you drop on Omotesando. Stop quick taste of what’s hip among Japanese kids by Harajuku Station on a weekend to take in at any given time, you could do worse than the lavishly dressed “gothic Lolitas” parading window-shopping on this legendary fashion in their finest, then stroll the Omotesando street. While you browse, snack on a crepe shopping boulevard for the latest fashions. from one of the street’s many vendors. > The gardens of the Imperial Palace are a great getaway from the city. Geeking out in Nakano Broadway. This Searching for hidden treasure in a flea shopping plaza is l terally crammed with shops market. The monthly flea markets sponsored dedicated to every conceivable Japanese pop- 1 Tiptoeing through the Tokyo National Mu- Shibuya. The huge, six-way traffic crossing in by certain temples, shrines, and community cultural niche. If you’re into Japanese anime seum. Priceless antiquities such as samurai front of Shibuya Station is legendarily crowded centers are a great way to find all sorts of stuff (animation) or comic books, this is a can’t-miss armor, swords, and traditional art are must- on weekends. The second floor of the Star- you never knew existed. The Oedo Antique shopping opportun ty. Market is the city’s largest. sees for anyone even remotely interested in bucks across the street offers an excellent Getting your head in the clouds with a Japanese culture. This is the museum to drop view from above the fray. Drinking in old-school glory on Hoppy Shinjuku skyscraper. The 202m-high (663-ft.) by if you only have time for one. 4 Meeting a maid in Akiba. Shop for electron- Street. This legendary strip of watering holes observation deck of the Tokyo Metropolitan 2 Encountering real-life monsters in Ueno ics or action figures all you like, but you can’t behind Asakusa’s Senso-ji Temple is a great Government Building is an amazing vantage Park zoo. This excellent zoo is conveniently lo- really say you’ve “done” Tokyo’s geek-mecca way to end a day and meet some friendly point for taking in the entire city at a glance— cated right in the center of the city. The amaz- neighborhood of Akihabara unless you take locals. and it’s free! ing endangered Japanese giant salamanders tea in one of its maid cafes, such as the storied Freaking out in one of the world’s weirdest Trekking up Mount Takao. Located about an on display in the reptile house here can grow @Home Cafe. museums. The Meguro Parasitological Muse- hour west of downtown, the quiet, easily hiked up to an alligator-sized 1.5m (5 ft.) in length. 5 Descending into gourmet paradise. To- um is tiny but stomach-churning. But strange- footpaths of this mountain are a classic way to 3 Navigating the throngs of pedestrians in kyo’s depa-chika, literally “department store ly enough, rumor has it the bug museum also get away from the urban jungle. 46 hokkaido sapporo 47

1950 to add a bit of spice and life to the cold advance. For up to date information about the winter days, the weeklong Snow Festival now dates and attractions of the festival, check the features some 240 snow and ice sculptures official website at www.snowfes.com/english. Sapporo of everything from famous architecture to The * Sapporo Summer Festival occupies anime characters, and attractions such as ice the other end of the temperature spectrum. Sapporo is one of Japan’s newest cities. About 140 years ago, slides and houses. One snow structure may Odori Park hosts numerous beer gardens require as much as 300 truckloads of snow, from late July to mid-August, open every day it was nothing more than a scattering of huts belonging to Ainu and Japanese the majority of it brought in from the sur- from noon. Various Japanese beer companies families. With the dawning of the Meiji Period, however, the government rounding mountains. The snow and ice carv- set up their own booths and tables under the decided to colonize the island. The area of Sapporo (the name comes from the ings are done with so much attention to detail trees, while vendors put up stalls selling fried Ainu word meaning “big, dry river”) was chosen as the new capital site, and that it seems a crime they’re doomed to melt. noodles, corn on the cob, and other goodies. construction began in 1871. The festival is one of Hokkaido’s major tour- In the evenings, live bands serenade the beer ist draws, with more than 2 million locals and drinkers under the stars. Check the city’s on- tourists thronging the downtown area every line sightseeing guide for the annual dates and year—so if you plan to visit during this time, times. www.welcome.city.sapporo.jp/english. make sure to book accommodations far in Where to Stay & Dine in Sapporo

Hotel Monterey Edelhof Although** opened in 2000, this elegant hotel embraces the architectural exuberance of early 1900s Vienna, with lots of marble, stained-glass windows, Art Deco embellish- ments, and Otto Wagner–inspired designs. The elevators have old-fashioned floor dials, classical music plays in public spaces, and function rooms carry such names as Belve- > The Sapporo TV Tower lights up the night sky. dere. The guest rooms are small but smartly decorated with Art Deco motifs. The hotel spa is a huge (though pricey) plus. N2 W1, Chuo- > Heaven for crab lovers: Kani Fukumura Kami. start Take the train to Odori Station. Sapporo this is a strip of hole-in-the-wall joints ku. 011/242-7111. www.hotelmonterey.co.jp/ is 1,130km (702 miles) north of Tokyo. that focus on Sapporo specialties. In ad- eng. 181 units. Doubles ¥32,340–¥43,890. AE, units. Doubles ¥26,000–¥44,000. AE, DC, MC, dition to miso ramen, don’t miss “corn- 1 Pole Town and Aurora Town. This pair of DC, MC, V. Train: Sapporo Station. V. Train: Sapporo Station. butter ramen,” a bowl of noodles with a linked underground shopping arcades is filled healthy dollop of butter on top. It doesn’t JR Tower Hotel Nikko Sapporo Kani Fukumura Kami seafood with numerous shops and boutiques. They *** ** matter which shop you choose—you Elegance and convenience—not to mention Hokkaido is famed for its seafood, and in also connect to some of the city’s bigger de- can’t go wrong, so just look for an empty top-class restaurants, a deluxe spa offering particular its multitude of crab varieties, and partment stores and other buildings, making seat. W3 S5, Chuo-ku. Ramen from ¥500. everything from reflexology to indoor/outdoor this is the best place in the city to sample this a fun way to spend a morning in the colder No credit cards. Lunch & dinner daily. hot-spring baths, and spectacular views from them. It’s located right in the heart of Hok- seasons. S1 W4, Chuo-ku. 011/251-4912. Train: Odori Station. all rooms—make this the best place to stay kaido’s nightlife district of Susukino. The crab Daily 10am–8pm. Train: Odori Station. in Sapporo. Located 23 stories directly above tempura and crab salad are great ways to 3 Odori Park. This is the large, tree-lined Sapporo Station, it offers rooms with high- start off the evening, but don’t miss the crab Ramen Yokocho. Sapporo is famed for 2 boulevard that extends from east to west end amenities such as embroidered towels shabu-shabu, in which diners cook strips of creating “miso ramen”—a widely popular right through the heart of Sapporo. It’s fun to (to dispense with the guessing game of which raw crab meat in a fragrant, steaming broth at version of the dish using a miso-based stroll through any time, and it hosts a variety towel belongs to whom). Of course, you pay their table. W4 S5, Susukino. 011/513-6778. rather than soy sauce–based broth. And of events and festivals throughout the year. for the luxury. JR Rail Pass holders get a 10% www.kanitei.com. Shabu-shabu courses from there is no better place to sample it than The Sapporo Snow Festival is the discount on rates. W2 N5, Chuo-ku. 011/251- ¥4,980 per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Dinner daily. Ramen Yokocho alley. Located just 1 *** quintessential city event, held annually in early 2222. www.jrhotels.co.jp/tower/english. 350 Subway: Suskino. short block east of the Susukino Station, February on Odori Park Promenade. Begun in 49

Yamagata prefecture 50

● Mogami River ● Shonai ● Zao ● Yonezawa

Fukushima prefecture 55

● Mount Bandai ● Urabandai ● Aizuwakamatsu ● Higashiyama Onsen

Ibaraki prefecture 60

Some material in this guide is reprinted from Frommer’s Japan Day bY Day © 2011 Wiley Publishing Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved. ● Mito ● Kasama ● Izura Coast http://www.frommers.com/

Photo Credits © Norihiro Haruta: pp6–7, p8, p11, p11, p16, p19, p20, p22, p27; © Akihiko Takaba: p10, p12, p15, p28, p30(left and right), p36, p38, p39; © John Lander: p42; © Marco Garcia: p44; © Jérémie ● Fukuroda Falls ● Okukuji Hot Spring Village Souteyrat: p45, p46, p47; © Courtesy Folkloro Tono: p31. 50 51

Yamagata Yamagata is celebrated throughout Japan for its rich, natural offerings. The breathtaking beauty of Mount Chokai, Mount Gassan, and other towering Reliving History while Boating Down Mogami River mountains forms a natural counterpoint to the magnificent scenery along Yamagata and its scenic Mogami River are Even now many sights and places remain in Mogami River and on the Shonai Plain. The prefecture is also known for its associated with two figures from Japan’s past. Yamagata just as Basho saw and depicted bountiful harvests of cherries and other fruits in addition to rice. Yamagata is a The first is Matsuo Basho, the most famous them. A trip down the Mogami River on boats popular destination with many tourists eager to trace the footsteps of Matsuo haiku poet of 17th-century Japan. The last long is one way for tourists to relive the world of Basho, a famous haiku poet who traveled widely during the second half of the journey of the widely traveled Basho brought Basho and Oku no Hosomichi, while listening him to Tohoku. Here he began composing to the songs of the watermen. (Mogami River 17th century. The Yamagata Shinkansen is a popular way to travel to Yamagata, his world-renowned Oku no Hosomichi (The Basho Boat Ride. 0233/72-2001. http:// which is 300km from Tokyo. Planes are also an option, with Shonai Airport and Narrow Road to the Interior), a collection of www.blf.co.jp/en.html) Yamagata Airport serving the prefecture. some of the finest examples of haiku. A log of The other historic figure is Minamoto no his journey, the collection describes the beauty Yoshitsune, the most famous samurai of the Mogami River. of the region’s seasons and its myriad sights. late 12th century. Though he accomplished 52 53 many daring deeds that are spoken of even now, he fled to Tohoku after clashing with his World’s Greatest Jellyfish Exhibition brother. Many illustrations still remain of his Kamo Aquarium descent down the Mogami River. One boat Kamo Aquarium received official recognition from the Guinness LEFT: Houjin-no-ie ("House of the Border Official") trip describes the local sights and history World Records in March 2012 as having the greatest number of where Basho stayed during his travels. (59-3 Sakaida in relation to Yoshitsune. (Mogami River jellyfish species on display. The small municipal aquarium once Mogami-cho, Mogami-gun. 0233/45-2397). Yoshitsune Boat Ride. 0234/57-2148. faced closure due to its aging structure, diversification of leisure RIGHT: Natagiritoge and other mountain paths still http://www.mogamigawa.jp/) activities, and other factors, but turned its fortunes around when echo with Basho’s footsteps. it capitalized on the beauty of jellyfish that had spontaneously appeared in a coral tank. Thirty to 40 types of jellyfish are on display at all times. The therapeutic sight of luminous jellyfish leisurely drifting about brings a constant flow of visitors. Shonai, Famed for Rice, Famed for Sake (656 Aza Okubo, Imaizumi, Tsuruoka-shi. 0235/33-3036. http://www.shonai.ne.jp/kamo/).

Juhyo, the Winter Spectacle of Zao The alpine region of Zao is famous in winter snowboarders on the cable cars to marvel at for its juhyo ("tree of ice") in addition to its the natural wonders, which can be seen from fantastic skiing. Juhyo formations are created mid-December to mid-March. when a dense fog of supercooled water If you’re visiting Zao between spring and droplets strikes and freezes on trees. Few autumn, you’ll want to hike around the plateau. places can match the spectacular sight of It’s a great opportunity to see charming Zao’s aptly named Ice Monsters because juhyo alpine plants, exotic insects, and more. Even forms on coniferous evergreens and requires beginners will find the hiking easy because the perfect set of atmospheric cond tions there is an extensive network of ropeways and involving the temperature, snow depth, and ski lifts. more. Many sightseers mingle with skiers and

Rice paddies stretch out over the Shonai Plain with Mount Chokai in the background. The scenery changes dramatically with each new season after planting in spring (photo). The homepage of the local tourist association features comprehensive information about hot springs and accommodations in Zao, Zao Hot Springs Ski Resort, hiking courses, and more (Association of Zao Hot Springs Tourism. 023/694-9328. http://www.zao-spa.or.jp/english/index.html). Good sake begins with good water and good producing fine sake. Watari Honten is one rice. Home to pristine, old-growth forests, such venerable brewery. It was established extensive mountains ranges, and fertile over 370 years ago. The Dewanoyuki Brewery flatlands, Yamagata is so blessed in both Material House is located on its premises (2- regards it produces some of Japan’s finest 2-8 Oyama, Tsuruoka-shi. 0235/33-3262). sake. Its Shonai Plain is such a bountiful It exhibits documents and items related to sake producer of quality rice it is considered Japan’s and sake brewing. It also offers taste tests. granary. Shonai alone is dotted with 18 sake Making a round of the traditional breweries breweries. The Oyama district of Tsuruoka is is also an attractive option (Federation of particularly famous. It flourished as a sake- Tsuruoka-shi, Yamagata Sightseeing. making center during the Edo Period. Even 0235/25-2111. http://www tsuruokakanko. now four breweries carry on the tradition of com/english/index.html).

Watarai Honten. Dewanoyuki Brewery Material House. Fuji Sake Brewery. 54

One of Zao’s many hot springs.

Where to Stay & Dine in Yamagata

Tokinoyado Sumire（時の宿すみれ） Miyamaso Takamiya（深山荘高見屋） Located in Yunosawa Onsen, this inn offers Established in 1716, this inn is the oldest of Zao an opportunity to soak in hot springs and Onsen’s historic inns. Zao Onsen is located savor a first-rate kaiseki meal amid a quiet, at an elevation of 900m (2,950 ft) in the natural setting. Its artistic kaiseki multicourse Zao mountain range. The inn’s nine different menu is a feast for the eyes and the palate and types of hot springs and traditional wood features Yamagata-reared Yonezawa beef, architecture plus the area’s rich natural setting which is among Japan’s finest. The inn accepts attract many guests. The inn has Japanese- only parties of two. There are 10 rooms, all style rooms that accommodate up to four in with different designs. 12703-4 Sekine, addition to renovated Western-style rooms. Yonezawa-shi. 0238/35-2234. http:// 54 Zao Onsen, Yamagata-shi. 023/694- www.tokinoyado.com/ From ¥19,050 per 9333. http://www.zao.co.jp/takamiya/ From person. AE, DC, MC, V. ¥15,000 per person. AE, DC, MC, V.

Uesugi Hakushakutei（上杉伯爵邸） Built in 1896, this manor once belonged to a local dignitary before it was converted to a restaurant serving exclusive Japanese food. It is now registered as one of Japan’s Tangible Cultural Properties. Diners can savor colorfully arranged courses like those offered to nobles (¥2,100), sukiyaki featuring Yonezawa beef (from ¥6,300), and other seasonal fare, while overlooking a traditional Japanese garden. 1-3- 60 Marunouchi, Yonezawa-shi. 0238/21- Fukushima 5121. http://hakusyakutei.jp/ Daily 11am- 2:30pm (from 2:30pm, reservation only) Tokinoyado Sumire. closed Wed. AE, DC, MC, V. Fukushima is located in south Tohoku. The many large and small lakes and marshes around Mount Bandai are kaleidoscopic marvels of nature, well served by many hiking trails. The nearby town of Aizuwakamatsu retains the charms of yesteryear and is home to Tsuruga Castle, which is famous for its roof of red tiles. The Tohoku Shinkansen brings travelers from Tokyo Station to the heart of the prefecture at Koriyama Station in about 80 minutes. Travelers can also take domestic flights from New Chitose Airport in Hokkaido and Osaka International Airport to Fukushima Airport.

Uesugi Hakushakutei. Uesugi Hakushakutei’s Miyamaso Takamiya. Yonezawa Beef sukiyaki. Bentennuma. 56 57

One of Tohoku’s Biggest Ski Resorts Alts Snow Park and Resort This popular ski resort has a diverse range of thrilling trails. In addition to the long runs that stretch for as much as 2,370m (2,590 yds.), skiers can opt for powder runs and more. Snowboarders are welcome on all trails. The resort has a comprehensive selection of rental gear and wear, so you can hit the slopes without any fuss. Free shuttle buses run to and from Koriyama Station, Inawashiro Station, and other train stations. (6838-68 Aza Shimizudaira, Oaza Sarashina, Bandai- machi, Yama-gun. 0242/74-5000. http://www.alts.co.jp/ english/).

Hiking Through the Lush Woods and Wetlands of Urabandai

Standing at 1,816m (5,958 ft.), Mount Bandai addition to the changes in the greenery. is one of the 100 Famous Japanese Mountains. There are 19 hiking courses in addition to the Past eruptions of this active volcano have one that leads around Goshikinuma. One trail produced many lakes and marshes. To the leads to Oguninuma, passing through woods mountain’s south is Japan’s fourth largest of Japanese Beech, Japanese Oak, Japanese lake, Lake Inawashiro. To the north is an area Horse Chestnut, Japanese Maple, and other known as Urabandai. This scenic area is a trees unique to Japan. Another trail leads gateway to serious mountain trekking and through a canyon that leads to Lake Onogawa a popular destination for many visitors who and a waterfall with a drop of 40m (131 ft.). come to marvel at the beauty that changes through the seasons and its lush greenery and waters. No trip to Urabandai will be complete without a trip to Goshikinuma ("Five-Colored Marshlands"). Goshikinuma encompasses over 10 major ponds and marshes, including Bishamonnuma, Bentennuma, Aonuma, and Midoronuma. Volcanic deposits give the pond waters distinctive colors, which range from vivid cobalt blues and emerald greens to more delicate hues. The particles that are suspended in the waters differ in size from pond to pond, so hikers will be able to Onogawa’s Fudo Waterfall. appreciate the d fferences in the waters in

Oguninuma Marsh. A view of Mount Bandai from Bishamonnuma. 58 59 Higashiyama Onsen, Steeped in 1,300 Years of History Higashiyama Onsen is just a 10-minute drive Yumeji, an artist who was extremely popular from the center of Aizuwakamatsu. It is said at the beginning of the 20th century for his to have been discovered by Gyoki, a Buddhist drawings of beautiful women, and Yosano monk who traveled throughout Japan 1,300 Akiko, an influential woman poet and feminist years ago dispensing wisdom to the poor. of the same period. The town is also home to The many people of culture who fell in love Higashiyama Geigi, the largest geisha group with Higashiyama Onsen include Takehisa of Tohoku.

Harataki（原瀧） This inn has hot springs as you’d expect, including an outdoor one. Its kawadoko takes advantage of the inn’s location to enable an Tsuruga Castle. exquisite outdoor dining experience beside a river. 235 Yumoto, Higashiyama-cho, Aizuwakamatsu-shi. 0242/26-4126 Tsuruga Castle and the Surrounding http://www.yumeguri.co.jp/en/ From ¥9,500 for two. AE, DC, MC, V. Town of Aizuwakamatsu Shosuke-no-yado Takinoyu Tsuruga Castle is an Aizuwakamatsu samurais and many others received their （庄助の宿瀧の湯） monument that can be seen from all points education at Nisshin-kan School. Its exhibits The inn was established over 120 years ago. in the town (1-1 Otemachi, Aizuwakamatsu- show Aizu’s commitment to education from There are many baths for guests to enjoy. They include an outdoor hot spring that faces shi. 0242/27-4005. Aizu-Wakamatsu City early on, outlining the school’s educational Higashiyama Onsen. Tourism Bureau. http://www.tsurugajo. scope, the discipline at the institution, and Fushimiga Waterfall and a bath made from a vat for fermenting Japanese sake. Breakfast com/). It was originally constructed in the more. Visitors can relive the history of and dinner offerings use local produce as 16th century over a feudal lord’s manor that Tsuruga Castle and its environs through the much as possible. 108 Higashiyama Onsen, dated back to 1348. During the war between preserved buildings, numerous exhibits, Aizuwakamatsu-shi. 0242/29-1000. shogunate and imperial forces at the end of and reconstructions. (Aizuwakamatsu http://shousuke.com/english/ From ¥6,300 the Edo Period, the castle became a rallying Kankobussan Kyokai. per person. AE, DC, MC, V. point for the forces loyal to the last shogun 0242/36-5043. http://e.samurai-city.jp/) because of its daunting defenses. Kutsurogijyuku Shintaki One episode of the war etched （くつろぎ宿新滝） Aizuwakamatsu’s place in Japanese history. The artist Takehisa Yumeji stayed at this inn three times. An exhibit of his works in Byakkotai was a group of Aizu defenders, the lobby welcomes guests. 43 Yumoto comprising 16- to 17-year-old soldiers who Terayashiki, Higashiyama, Aizuwakamatsu- were trained as samurais to defend their land. shi. 0242/26-0001. http://www. Many committed ritual suicide when defeat kutsurogijuku.jp/english/index.html From at the hands of the far superior imperial ¥6,800 per person. MC, V. Harataki’s outdoor hot spring. forces became apparent. The tragedy is still remembered today, as it continues to be a topic of books and shows. Byakkotai’s boy Residence of an Aizu samurai.

Nisshin-kan School. Kyu-Takizawa Honjin. Harataki’s riverside dining. Shosuke-no-yado Takinoyu. Kutsurogijyuku Shintaki. 6 61 Ibaraki Ibaraki offers many lush natural attractions in addition to contemporary culture, all within easy reach of Tokyo. Kairakuen bursts with Japanese Apricot blossoms in early spring. Counted among the Three Famous Japanese Waterfalls, Fukuroda Falls present different spectacles every season. Nature frames them with red leaves in autumn and freezes them into an elaborate sculpture of ice in winter. Ibaraki’s many cultural sights include the Izura coast. Many of Izura’s sights are associated with Okakura Tenshin, a philosopher who greatly contributed to the advancement of contemporary Japanese art. Ibaraki is so close to Tokyo its southern part is dotted with commuter towns. The proximity is one of Ibaraki’s charms for tourists.

Experiencing Edo Culture and Contemporary Culture in Mito The Mito Tokugawas ruled central and northern lord, the park is considered one of the Three Ibaraki for over 200 years from the early 17th Great Parks of Japan. Throughout the year, century as feudal lords. They were a major the park welcomes visitors with magnificent branch of the Tokugawa clan of shoguns: The scenery. It bustles w th visitors in early spring Mitos was one of the Gosanke (Three Great when Japanese Apricot trees 3,000 in number Houses [of the Tokugawa]). A spectacular and over 100 in type burst in a flurry of flowers. legacy of the Mitos is Kairakuen (1-3-3 The cherry blossoms of spring, the deep red Tokiwacho, Mito-shi. 029/244-5454. http:// rhododendrons of summer, and the bright red www.koen.pref.ibaraki.jp/foreign_language/ Japanese Maples of autumn are also sights to Fukuroda Falls. en/index.html). Established in 1842 by a Mito behold. 62 For a change of pace from traditional Japanese gardens, tourists can visit Art Tower Mito’s Contemporary Art Gallery (1-6-8 Goken-cho, Mito-shi. 029/227-8111. http:// arttowermito.or.jp/). The gallery is one of Japan’s leading museums of contemporary art. Its radical yet vital exhibitions of select international and Japanese contemporary artists are comprehensive in scope, ranging from contemporary art and design to architecture. Designed by the world-renowned Kasama Himatsuri. Kasama ware. architect Isozaki Arata, Art Tower Mito’s iconic tower is a striking complement to Mito’s skyline. Art Tower Mito. The Enchanting Scenery of the Izura Coast Kasama, Kanto’s oldest pottery center The beginning of Kasama ware is traditionally 0296/73-0058. Kasamayaki Cooperative. dated to the 1770s when the first of the region’s http://www.himatsuri.net/). Many artisans kilns was constructed. The region produced and potters display and sell earthenware many items for everyday use, using Kasama ranging from everyday ware to unique works clay, which is extracted from the highly sticky of art. The park’s lush, spacious nature and loam layer of the Kanto plain. Kasama’s pottery the diverse food and drink stands, with some industry flourished in the late 19th century due featuring original fare made by the potters, add Izura coast. to its proximity to Edo, producing earthenware to the event’s popularity. in mass volume. When the growing popularity of plastic products dampened production, the region responded by encouraging creativity and passing on ts tradition of consummate skill to produce many highly artistic works.Kasama returned to prominence in the second half of the 20th century. Young artisans flocked to the region and significantly increased the Rokkakudo. expressive potential of Kasama ware. Held in Tenshin Memorial Museum of Art, Ibaraki. early spring every year, Kasama Himatsuri ("Fire Festival") is one of Ibaraki’s biggest Okakura Tenshin (1863–1913) was an influential He moved to the area where he fished and read. events (S te: Kasama Geijutsunomori Park. scholar and philosopher who contributed to He also built Rokkakudo atop a cliff where he the development of contemporary Japanese immersed himself in thought to the sounds of art in the late 19th century through the the waves (727-2 Izura, Otsu-cho, Kitaibaraki- establishment of the Tokyo School of Fine Arts shi. 0293/46-0766 http://rokkakudo.izura. Making Your Own Earthenware (now the Tokyo University of the Arts) and ibaraki.ac jp/). Tourists can visit Rokkakudo, as at a Pottery. other efforts. He was also a man of letters. His it was restored after it was swept away in the Kasama offers programs that provide the opportunity to learn from works were popular with readers in the West as 2011 tsunami. Tenshin Memorial Museum of a number of skilled potters. The program’s aim is to teach traditional introductions to oriental thought. His acclaimed Art, Ibaraki exhibits resources and works from techniques and encourage many people to take an interest in The Book of Tea, which he wrote in English and Tenshin’s personal collection in add tion to pottery. Students can experience a pottery-making process that encourages the importance of touch and feel. You can expect to use published in the U.S., is a scholarly insight into the works of Japanese artists who flourished potter’s wheels and to shape works through coiling and pinching. the aesthetic and cultural elements of Japanese during the dawn of contemporary Japanese art You will also receive detailed instructions on decorations so you tea ceremonies. (2083 Tsubaki, Otsu-cho, Kitaibaraki-shi. will be able to create unique works. Knead, shape, then bake the When Tenshin visited Izura on Japan’s 0293/46-5311. http://www.tenshin. clay. It’s a great opportunity to experience the dynamism of pottery Pacific coast in 1903, he was immediately drawn museum.ibk.ed.jp/07_english/index.html). making. (Kasama Tourism Association. 0296/72-9222. http:// by the way the Izura coast’s many inlets and www.kasama-kankou.jp/) coves produced profound changes in scenery. 65

Omoide Romankan’s outdoor hot spiring.

Lake Towada (Aomori pref.) Chuson-ji Temple (Iwate pref.) Nyuto Onsen (Akita pref.) Courtesy of Tohoku Regional Courtesy of Chuson-ji Temple Environment Office, Ministry of the Environment

Omoide Romankan’s lobby. Photo Gallery

Fireworks and floating lanterns bearing the spirits of the departed. Takiminoyado Hounen Manasaku. Fukuroda Falls and Okukuji Hot Spring Village Considered one of the Three Famous Japanese of ice. The surrounding area is known as Waterfalls, Fukuroda Falls cascades in four Okukuji Hot Spring Village. It consists of the stages down a massive rocky slope (Aza five districts of Daigo, Fukuroda, Yuzawa, Takimoto, Oaza Fukuroda, Daigo-machi, Kuji- Tsukiori, and Asakawa. Kuji River, which flows gun, Ibaraki. 0295/72-1138. Planning and through the heart of Daigo, is the scene of a Tourism Division, Daigo Town Hall ht tp: // huge festival that attracts many tourists every Matsushima (Miyagi pref.) Mogami River (Yamagata pref.) Mount Bandai (Fukushima pref.) www.town.daigo.ibaraki.jp/). The appearance August. A fireworks display forms a colorful of the falls changes with the seasons. The backdrop to the sending off of spirits of the gradually changing greenery of spring and departed in lanterns floated on the river. (Daigo summer give way to the red leaves of autumn. Town Tourism Association. 0295/72-0285. In winter, the falls freeze to form a sculpture http://www.daigo-kanko.jp/)

Fukuroda Onsen Omoide Romankan Takiminoyado Hounen Mansaku （袋田温泉思い出浪漫館）（滝味の宿豊年万作） The inn is located in Fukurodaonsen, near Every aspect of the inn and its 15 rooms speak Fukuroda Falls, and is styled in the nature of its commitment to first-rate hospitality. of a mountain villa. The inn is popular for Each room is equipped with a humidifier, and the diverse nature of its rooms. There are the inn’s store features locally produced items. Japanese-style rooms with baths on the The inn’s cuisine uses local foods as much Fukuroda Falls (Ibaraki pref.) Rinno-ji Temple (Tochigi pref.) Kusatsu Onsen (Gunma pref.) veranda, Western-style rooms with antique as possible. Guests can soak in the inn’s hot appearances, and more. 978 Fukuroda, springs while enjoying a panoramic view of Courtesy of Mount Nikko Rinno-ji Temple Daigo-machi, Kuji-gun. 0295/72-3111. natural surroundings. 169-3 Fukuroda, Daigo- http://www.roman-kan.jp/ From ¥13,800 machi, Kuji-gun. 0295/72-3011. http:// per person. AE, DC, MC, V. www.fukuroda.co.jp/ From ¥10,500 per person. AE, DC, MC, V. 66 67

Lake Towada (Aomori pref.) p. 20 Zao Juhyo (Yamagata pref.) p. 53 Courtesy of Tohoku Regional Environment Office, Ministry of the Environment Photo Gallery

Kakunodate (Akita pref.) p. 24

Nikko Toshogu Shrine (Tochigi pref.) p. 37 Zuihoden Hall (Miyagi pref.) p. 34 Courtesy of Zuihoden 68 69

Tono (Iwate pref.) p. 28

Kairakuen (Ibaraki pref.) p. 61

Sazae-do (Fukushima pref.) p. 58

Kusatsu Onsen (Gunma pref.) p. 40 Photo Gallery 70 71

Sendai Tanabata Matsuri (Miyagi pref.) p.34 Photo Gallery

Mount Bandai (Fukushima pref.) p. 56 Hiraizumi Mizukake Mikoshi (Iwate pref.) p. 8

Zao Onsen (Yamagata pref.) p. 54 Kegon Falls (Tochigi pref.) p. 36 72 73

Kasama Himatsuri (Ibaraki pref.) p. 62

Photo Gallery

Nyuto Onsen (Akita pref.) p. 27

Mogami River (Yamagata pref.) p. 50

Chuson-ji Temple (Iwate pref.) p. 8 Hirosaki Neputa Matsuri (Aomori pref.) p. 9 Courtesy of Chuson-ji Temple 74 75

Ikaho Onsen (Gunma pref.) p. 43

Lake Tazawa (Akita pref.) p. 11 Photo Gallery

Rinno-ji Temple (Tochigi pref.) p. 36 Courtesy of Mount Nikko Rinno-ji Temple

Matsushima (Miyagi pref.) p. 35 76 77

Shirakami Sanchi (Aomori and Akita pref.) p. 11

Goshikinuma (Fukushima pref.) p. 55 Photo Gallery

Fukuroda Falls (Ibaraki pref.) p. 64 Kusatsu Onsen (Gunma pref.) p. 40 78 79

Hachimantai Plateau (Iwate and Akita pref.) p. 20

Photo Gallery Shiogama-jinja Shrine (Miyagi pref.) p. 32

Yama-dera Temple (Yamagata pref.) p. 50

Lake Chuzenji (Tochigi pref.) p. 36 80 81

Oirase Gorge (Aomori pref.) p. 20

Rinkaku Tea Cottage at Tsuruga Castle (Fukushima pref.) p. 58

Photo Gallery

Nyuto Onsen (Akita pref.) p. 27

Oze Marsh (Gunma pref.) p. 40 Floating lanterns in Daigo Town (Ibaraki pref.) p. 64 Courtesy of The Oze Preservation Foundation TOHOKU & NORTH KANTO

Traditional Arts & Crafts Aizu Hongo Ware (Fukushima pref.)

Many traditional arts and crafts that were fostered through a long tradition of creativity Aizu Hongo is the oldest production center of and innovation are native to Tohoku and North Kanto. Learn from artisans and try your porcelain in Tohoku. Production began almost hand at some of these crafts. It’ll be a great way to cap your trip to the region. 400 years ago. The area produces blue and white porcelain and porcelain with multicolored pictures. It also produces porcelain that uses ame-gusuri ("candy glaze"), ash glaze, and other traditional Tsugaru Nuri (Aomori pref.) glazes. Kinooto-koubou offers courses for making coffee cups, plates, and other utensils from 1kg (2 Tsugaru lacquer ware is famous for the beauty of its elegant lb. 3 oz.) of clay or decorating unadorned plates. patterns. It stands out among even Japanese lacquer ware for its tough finish, so it is suitable for bowls, chopsticks, and other utensils. A cloth is applied to a wooden core of Japanese Kinooto-koubou（樹の音工房） Cypress that grows in Tsugaru before a process of repeated 3272-1 Aza Seto-machi, Aizumisato-machi, Onuma-gun. lacquering and burnishing. At Tsugaruhan Neputamura, you 0242/56-5098. http://www.kinooto.com can try your hand at Tsugaru nuri, decorating hand mirrors, From JR Aizu-Wakamatsu Station, take the bus bound for chopsticks, or spoons. Hongo. From Seto-machi bus-stop, a 2-minute walk.

Tsugaruhan Neputamura（津軽藩ねぷた村） 61 Kamenoko-machi, Hirosaki-shi. 0172/39-1511. http://www.neputamura.com/ From JR Hirosaki Station, take the Konan Bus headed for Hamanomachi Yuki Tsumugi (Ibaraki & Tochigi pref.) and get off at Kamenoko-machikado (12 min.). Yuki tsumugi is the name of the high-quality silk cloth that is produced in the Yuki district. It is characterized by elegant yet vivid colors, coming Nambu Tekki (Iwate pref.) mainly in stripes, hexagons, and lattices. Pongee production has a long history in Yuki. The area Nambu cast ironwork combines practicality with form, as was reputedly producing pongee by as early as the the various cast iron utensils all last long and retain heat eighth century. Threads are pulled by hand from well. While the utensils’ interiors are crafted to prevent the silk floss and then woven using a handloom. At rusting, boiling water releases trace amounts of iron, Tsumugi-no-Sato, you can try weaving and indigo which the body readily absorbs. Ironwork production dyeing. began in the mid-17th century when the then lord of the Nambu clan invited craftsmen versed in the art of iron Tsumugi-no-Sato（紬の里） casting to Morioka from Kyoto to produce teakettles. 2515 Yuki, Yuki-shi. 0296/32-8002. http://www.tsumugi.co.jp/ From JR Yuki Station, a 20-minute walk. Oshu-shi Imonogijutsu Koryu Center（奥州市鋳物技術交流センター） Courtesy of Morioka City. 131 Aza Myosho, Hada-cho, Mizusawa-ku, Oshu-shi. 0197/24-1551. http://www.ginga.or.jp/~imono/ From JR Mizusawa Esashi Station, a 5-minute walk. Takasaki Daruma (Gunma pref.)

The production of the papier-mâché daruma dolls began in Naruko Kokeshi (Miyagi pref.) the region over 200 years ago. The daruma doll exemplifies the Japanese proverb of tripping seven times and getting up Kokeshi, or wooden dolls, were first produced about 200 years ago by eight times (don’t let the missteps of life bring you down) artisans as toys for their children. Masters at making bowls and trays because it rights itself when pushed over. Visitors to Daruma- on potter’s wheels, these artisans turned wood and then painted facial no-furusato Daimonya can choose from a wide selection features on. The Japan Kokeshi Museum has many traditional kokeshi of large to small daruma, which are popular as charms on display. You can see the production process up close and even paint and commemorative presents. Visitors can also view the your own kokeshi doll. production process and try their hand at decorating a daruma.

Japan Kokeshi Museum（日本こけし館） Daruma-no-furusato Daimonya（だるまのふるさと大門屋） 74-2 Aza Shitomae, Naruko-Onsen, Osaki-shi. 124-2 Fujizuka-machi, Takasaki-shi. 0229/83-3600. http://www.kokesikan.com 027/323-5223. http://homepage2.nifty.com/daimonya/ From JR Naruko-Onsen Station, a 5-minute drive. From JR Gunma-Yawata Station, a 5-minute walk. TOHOKU & NORTH KANTO

Registered Shirakami Sanchi (Aomori & Akita pref.) 1993 World Heritage Sites Natural Shirakami Sanchi is an expansive, mountainous Heritage Site area that straddles two prefectures and is covered It is certainly worth the effort to visit the UNESCO World Heritage S tes of Tohoku and by one of the world’s biggest forests of old-growth North Kanto. You’ll long cherish the spectacle of the natural and cultural sites. Shirakami beech trees. A section covering 170 sq. km was Sanchi preserves an entire ecosystem, while Hiraizumi and Nikko have shrines and registered as a World Natural Heritage Site. This preserve is home to an ecosystem like no other. temples that are striking examples of traditional Japanese wood architecture. Myriad fauna and flora share a remote, unspoiled environment.

Shirakami-Sanchi Visitor Center 0172/85-2810. Hiraizumi —Temples, Gardens and Archaeological Sites Representing the Buddhist Pure Land (Iwate pref.) http://www.shirakami-visitor.jp From JR Hirosaki Station, take a Konan Bus to the This World Heritage Site is a group comprising the five Nishimeya Murayakuba-mae bus stop (50 min.). From the bus stop, a 5-minute walk to the Shirakami-Sanchi Visitor sites of Chuson-ji Temple, Motsu-ji Temple, Muryoko- Center. See p. 19 for more information. in Temple Ato, Kanjizaio-in Temple Ato, and Mount Kinkeisan. Built in 1124, Chuson-ji Temple houses over 3,000 national treasures and important cultural properties. The collection includes Konjikido ("Golden Hall"), which is covered with gold leaf inside and out.

Hiraizumi Tourism Association 0191/46-2110. http://hiraizumi.or.jp/en/index.html From JR Hiraizumi Station, take an Iwatekotsu Bus to Chuson-ji Temple (4 min.); take a Run Run Bus to Motsu-ji Temple (3 min.) and Takadachi Gikeido Hall (14 min.).

Registered 2011 Motsu-ji Temple. Shrines and Temples of Nikko (Tochigi pref.) Cultural Heritage Site The Cu tural Heritage Site encompasses the 103 structures of Futarasan Shrine, Toshogu Shrine, Nikko City and Rinno-ji Temple and the surrounding cu tural 0288/22-1111. landscape on Mount Nikko. The sight of many http://www.city.nikko.lg.jp/bunkazai/kankou/shaji/ english/main.html traditional structures among a natural setting From JR and Tobu Nikko train stations, 5 to 13 minutes is spectacular. The pageantry of Nikko Toshogu on the Sekaiisan Meguri bus (All-day unlimited-ride Shrine’s vivid colors and ornate carvings will leave an pass: ￥500) impression that will last a lifetime.

Registered 1999 Cultural Heritage Site

Chuson-ji Temple. Courtesy of Chuson-ji Temple. Yashamon, Rinno-ji Temple Taiyuin. Courtesy of Mount Nikko Rinno0ji Temple. TOHOKU & NORTH KANTO Ski Resorts Japan is a paradise for skiers and snowboarders because it is blessed with many mountains and generous snowfall. Most of the nation’s best ski resorts are concentrated in Tohoku and North Kanto. The more accessible of the region’s many popular resorts are featured below.

Manza Onsen Ski Resort (Gunma pref.)

Beginners to experts can ride down a huge variety of courses, while admiring the spectacular vista of Mount Asama and the surrounding mountain range. The resort is located in the town of Manza Onsen, which is well known for the prodigious volume and properties of its hot springs, so it’s perfect for those looking to soak after hitting the slopes.

Manza Onsen Ski Resort Manza Onsen, Tsumagoi-mura, Agatsuma-gun. 0279/97-3117. http://www.princehotels.com/en/ski/manza_onsen.html Appi All Season Resort (Iwate pref.) Appi All Season Resort Appikogen, Hachimantai-shi. This is one of Japan’s premier ski resorts. The mountain’s huge 0195/73-6401. slope has 12 trails that are over 2km (2,190 yds.) in length http://www.appi.co.jp/foreign_country/ english/ in addition to others. The resort also offers comprehensive Miyagi Zao Eboshi Snow Resort (Miyagi pref.) ranges of activities, accommodations, and more. One of the biggest in Miyagi, this ski resort is located on the northeast spur of the Zao mountain range’s Mount Eboshi. t has 11 trails in all. A popular course is a long, 4.3-km course (4,700-yd.). The mountain’s peak towers 700m (2,300 ft.) from its foot, so you can see the Pacific Ocean from the slopes on a clear day.

Miyagi Zao Eboshi Snow Resort Kuraishitake Kokuyurinnai, Togatta Onsen, Zao- machi, Katta-gun. 0224/34-4001. http://www.eboshi.co.jp/

Hunter Mountain Shiobara (Tochigi pref.)

This ski resort is popular with many, from families to young snowboarders, because of its trails, one as long as 3km (3,280 yd.), and many attractions. Its relative accessibility from Tokyo adds to its popularity. The slopes are transformed into fields of lilies during the off-season.

Tazawako Ski Resort (Akita pref.) Tazawako Ski Resort Hunter Mountain Shiobara 73-2 Aza Shimotakano, Tazawako Obonai, Aza Maekuro, Yumoto Shiobara, Nasushiobara-shi. Located on the side of Mount Akita-Komagatake, this resort is Senboku-shi. 0387/32-4580. one of Japan’s biggest. All trails offer a spectacular view of Lake 0187/46-2011. http://www.tazawako-ski.com/ http://www.hunter.co.jp/winter/ Tazawa. It’s about 30 minutes by bus from the Akita Shinkansen Line’s Tazawako Station. TOHOKU & NORTH KANTO A Tour of the Hot Springs Because Japan is literally bubbling over with natural hot springs or onsen as the Japanese call them, it is dotted with hot spring inns. Tohoku and North Kanto are no exception. The area’s hot springs vary considerably in their properties. For a true Japan experience, soak in a hot spring and feel the day’s exhaustion drain away before slipping into a yukata or a light kimono and exploring the town to the sounds of your geta or wooden sandals.

Hanamaki Hot Springs (Iwate pref.) Sukayu Onsen (Aomori pref.)

Hanamaki has 12 hot springs that well up along the t’s only a single inn, but it’s big. It welcomes many Shima Onsen (Gunma pref.) gorges of the Ou mountain range. The area’s inns guests who come to soak in its copious waters and all have their own special feel. They range from take advantage of its reputation of being good for a One story has it that Shima Onsen large hotels to an ancient inn that is popular for its variety of ailments. It is famous for its senninburo or received its name because the therapeutic waters. There are unique hot springs as "1,000-person bath." One large bath draws water springs there were said to cure well, including one for bathing in while standing and from two different springs. There is an utase bath, shima ("forty thousand") ailments. outdoor springs along the area’s canyons. where water streams down from high above. The The resort follows the course baths are shared by both sexes, a though the changing of the Shima River. It is divided rooms are separate. The waters are relatively acidic. into the five areas of Hinatami, Hanamaki Tourism Association Yuzuriha, Yamaguchi, Shinyu, and 0198/29-4522. Onsenguchi. Hinatami is famous as http://www.kanko-hanamaki.ne.jp/en/ Sukayu Onsen the first spring of Shima Onsen. 017/738-6400. http://www.sukayu.jp/ Shima Onsen Association 0279/64-2321. http://www.shimaonsen.com/en/ Kinugawa-Kawaji Hot Spring (Tochigi pref.)

The waters here are reputedly good for burns. The Kinugawa Onsen Ropeway is nearby. Onsen Jinja is near the top of the ropeway. The springs are conveniently close to the sights of Nikko.

Kinugawa/Kawaji-onsen Tourist Association Naruko Hot Spring (Miyagi pref.) 0288/77-2052. http://www.kinugawa-kawaji.jp/english/ Naruko Hot Spring is one of the Three Famous Hot Spirngs of Oshu (an old term for most of modern Tohoku) along with Iizaka Hot Spring in Fukushima and Akiu Onsen (Hot Springs) Hot Spring in Miyagi. The first hot spring started to flow in 826 after the eruption Hot springs well throughout Japan because the country of Mount Toyanomori. The resort’s many has many volcanoes. The qualities and properties vary inns freely lend out geta wooden sandals. from place to place. Some are clear, while others are milky. Slip on a pair and clop around a resort In conjunction each onsen is reputed to have specific over 1,000 years old. therapeutic effects. Some are said to be good for stiff shoulders and lower back pain, while others are said to promote beautiful skin. When you’re in Tohoku and North Naruko Spa Tourist Association Kanto, take the opportunity to have a leisurely soak in the 0229/82-2102. differing hot springs throughout the region. http://en.naruko.gr.jp/ TOHOKU & NORTH KANTO

Local Cuisine Anko Nabe (Ibaraki pref.) Anko, also known as monkfish, goosefish, and No trip to Tohoku and North Kanto would be complete without savoring the culinary anglerfish, is considered a delicacy in Japan, delights that are exclusive to the region. The entire area is rich with natural offerings. The despite its admittedly unattractive appearance. world-renowned fishing grounds of the Sanriku coast (Aomori, Iwate, and Miyagi) yield It is a deep-water fish that lives on the sandy and delicacies with each new season, while the area’s fertile lands foster beef and poultry that muddy bottoms off Japan’s coast. Nothing goes to waste except the bones. ts flesh, liver, fins, swim are among the three best in Japan. bladder, and even its skin are tasty eating. Anko nabe, a hotpot, is one of Ibaraki’s best-known winter specia ties.

Yonezawa Beef (Yamagata pref.) Kitaibaraki’s official information about Anko nabe Yonezawa beef is considered one of the http://www.city-kitaibaraki.jp/modules/sight/ three best beef brands in Japan along with index.php?content_id=23 Matsusaka beef and Kobe beef for its fine marbling and superior fats. Steaks, sukiyaki, and shabu-shabu are great ways to savor its superior flavor and texture. The designation is exclusively reserved for meat from brand- name black Wagyu cattle that meets the standards of the Yonezawagyu Meigara Suishin Kyogikai. Hinaidori (Akita pref.)

Yonezawagyu Meigara Suishin This brand of chicken is considered one of Kyogikai the three great local chicken brands of Japan along with Satsumajidori and Nagoya Cochin. http://www.yonezawagyu.jp/index.html The meat is relatively lean and has a good, strong flavor. t remains relatively tender when cooked yet is satisfyingly firm. Its texture and its strong, full-bodied flavor make it ideal for nabe or hotpots and other Japanese Oyster Dishes (Miyagi pref.) dishes. Miyagi is known for its oysters. They are plump and have a full- bodied sweetness to them because they are nurtured in the Akita’s official information about buffeting waters of the Sanriku coast, one of the world’s three Hinaidori best fishing grounds, for two years. They are great raw with a http://www.pref.akita.jp/fpd/shokubunka/ dash of vinegar. They are also delicious when fried, put in nabe or shoku-20.htm hotpots, and in other dishes.

Miyagi’s official information about oysters http://www.pref.miyagi.jp/suikisei/oyster/kakitop.htm

Quintessential Japanese Food

Tohoku and North Kanto are Kitakata Ramen (Fukushima pref.) Japan’s biggest producers of Rice rice. The varieties vary by region. Kitakata ramen is considered one of the three great ramen of Hitomebore and Akitakomachi Japan along with Sapporo ramen and Hakata ramen. The soy are famous in Japan. sauce flavored soup is a blend of pork bone and dried sardine broths. The noodles are thick, flat, and curly. Tohoku and North Kanto are also blessed with good water so the region is a major Sake producer of sake. Urakasumi, Ichinokura, Kuranomachi Kitakata Ramenkai Nanbu Bijin, and Dewanoyuki are just a few of the region’s many famous brands. http://www.ramenkai.com/ Experienced travelers know that it’s a good idea to study the climate, transportation options, how to make international phone calls, and other points of basic information before embarking. In particular, Tips About Traveling in Japan it’s essential to look at Tohoku’s weather because the area is colder than most of Japan is. Plan ahead and jot down the numbers to call if you encounter any problems.

Visa Voltage & Electricity American citizens do not require a visa if the duration of the stay is 90 days or less and the purpose is traveling, Electricity in Japan is 100V. You can use 100V to 120V American appliances, but a transformer is recommended for conducting business, attending a conference, visiting friends and/or relatives, etc. You will need to get a visa if precision equipment and delicate electrical apparatus. Power frequency varies in Japan. It is 50Hz in eastern Japan and you will be working for payment in Japan, staying for an extended period over 90 days, etc. 60Hz in western Japan. f your 60Hz American appliance has an automatic frequency switcher, then you can use the appliance as is. The sockets in Japan are A type and accept plugs that have two flat prongs in parallel like in the U.S. Religion & Language The dominant religions of Japan have long been Shintoism and Buddhism. Other religions include Christianity and Making International Calls mixed faiths. In the modern age, the Japanese are increasingly turning away from religion. The language of Japan When using a fixed line or a public phone, enter the ① the international call identification number, ② the country code is Japanese. You’ll find people who speak English in urban areas and at major tourist sites. People in Tohoku use (U.S. is 1), ③ the area code (omit the 0 at the start), and ④ the telephone number in that order. Another option is to Tohoku-ben, a dialect that is slightly different from standard Japanese. purchase an international telephone card and follow the card’s instructions when using a fixed line or public telephone.

Four Seasons, Climate, & Clothing Taking Trains In most of Japan, the four seasons of spring, summer, fall, and winter are clearly different from one another. f you’re taking the Shinkansen, go to a JR station’s green-colored ticket office (Midori-no-madoguchi) and buy Tohoku is temperate and comfortable even during summer. The average daytime temperature in August is about your tickets there (boarding ticket and express ticket). For other train lines and subway lines, buy your ticket at 77°F or 25°C. You’ll need a heavy coat in winter because heavy snow is the norm except in Miyagi and Fukushima, the station’s automatic ticket machines. The fares are listed on charts and maps that are usually right above the which are on the Pacific coast. August temperatures in the southern part of North Kanto’s Gunma will exceed ticket machines. There are no station officials for some or entire segments of some lines so you’ll have to push 95°F or 35°C on some days. a button to open the door, take a ticket, and place the fare amount and the fare-zone ticket or the fare amount and the ticket in the carriage’s fare box after checking the fare. The lines in question include the Tohoku Main Spring (April) Summer (July) Fall (October) Winter (January) Line (between Ichinoseki and Morioka), Ofunato Line, Kitakami Line, Kamaishi Line, and Ominato Line. NOTE: There are many private rail companies in addition to JR. The ticket offices and payment methods will T（F） T（C） P T（F） T（C） P T（F） T（C） P T（F） T（C） P inevitably vary. Sapporo 44.1 6.7 2 3/8 68.9 20.5 2 5/8 52.3 11.3 4 7/8 26.4 -4.1 4 3/8 Sendai 50.2 10.1 3 7/8 71.8 22.1 6 1/4 58.6 14.8 3 7/8 34.7 1.5 1 1/4 Tip! Tokyo 57.9 14.4 5 1/8 77.7 25.4 6 3/8 64.8 18.2 6 3/8 42.4 5.8 1 7/8 Be sure to get a Japan Rail Pass before you come to Japan. This extremely economical rail pass will let you explore Japan in detail. The six JR Group companies offer the pass. It is only available to foreigners who are T: Temperature F: Fahrenheit C: Celsius P: Precipitation (in.) in 2000 staying short term for the purpose of sightseeing. Visit the group’s website for more information (http:// www.japanrailpass.net/eng/en001.html). Time Difference The time difference with Japan will vary depending on the time zone that you’re in. All of Japan is 14 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time, 15 hours ahead of Central Standard Time, 16 hours ahead of Mountain Standard Time, 17 hours ahead of Pacific Standard Time, 18 hours ahead of Alaska Standard Time, and 19 hours ahead of Hawaii Who to Call If You Need Help Standard Time. At 12 noon (EST), it is 2:00 in the morning of the next day in Japan. Japan does not go on daylight U.S. Embassy The U.S. Consulate General—Sapporo saving time. Subtract an hour from the above times when the U.S. goes on daylight saving time. 1-10-5 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo. 28-3-1 Kita 1-jo Nishi, Chuo-ku, Sapporo-shi, 03/3224-5000. Hokkaido. http://japan.usembassy.gov 011/641-1115. Currency & Denominations Closed on Saturdays, Sundays, and American and 03/3224-5000 (after-hours emergencies only). Japanese holidays. http://sapporo.usconsulate.gov/index.html The currency of Japan is the yen. Bills come in four denominations: 10,000, 5,000, 2,000, and 1,000 yen. The The embassy provides essential services to Closed on Saturdays, Sundays, and American and 2,000-yen note is not in wide circulation. Coins come in six denominations: 500, 100, 50, 10, 5, and 1 yen. The American citizens in Tokyo, Kanagawa, Chiba, Japanese holidays. 50- and 5-yen coins have holes in them. You can exchange currency at most banks and postal offices as well as at Saitama, Gunma, Tochigi, Ibaraki, Fukushima, The consulate provides essential services to private currency exchange kiosks in cities. Yamagata, Nagano, Niigata, Shizuoka, and American citizens in Akita, Aomori, Hokkaido, Iwate, Yamanashi. and Miyagi.

Sample Sample Sample Sample Tourist Information Center with English Speakers Tourist Information Center, Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO) ￥10,000 ￥5,000 ￥2,000 ￥1,000 1st Floor, Shin-Tokyo Building, 3-3-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. 03/3201-3331. http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/ Sample Daily from 9am-5pm. (Closed on January 1.) Sample Sample Sample Sample Sample This tourist information center is operated by the JNTO. t is conveniently located near Tokyo Station. English-, Chinese-, and Korean-speaking staff are on hand to provide information about tourist sites throughout Japan. ￥500 ￥100 ￥50 ￥10 ￥5 ￥1 Discover Tohoku & North Kanto

Tohoku and North Kanto are in Japan’s northeast. Tohoku officially refers to the area that comprises the prefectures of Aomori, Akita, Iwate, Yamagata, Miyagi, and Fukushima. The prefectures of North Kanto are Ibaraki, Tochigi, and Gunma. Both areas are readily accessible from Tokyo and Hokkaido. Their relative accessibility is a reason for their growing popularity with many tourists. But it’s more than just that. The entire region is appealing in so many ways. Landscapes that are richly colored by the seasons. Cuisines that offer the finest of both the sea and the mountains. The rich atmosphere of the hot springs. The fire of the many summer festivals. And above all, its warm people. It’s little wonder that visitors have been captivated by the experience. In magnificent natural settings away from the hustle and bustle of cities, you’ll discover that time moves leisurely AOMORI here. Take a trip to Tohoku and North Kanto and see the natural side AKITA of Japan that you won’t in a city. IWATE

YAMAGATA

MIYAGI

FUKUSHIMA

TOCHIGI GUNMA IBARAKI

Courtesy of Chuson-ji Temple. Getting to Tohoku & Surface Travel North Kanto The Tohoku Shinkansen bullet train is a convenient way to travel from Tokyo to the cities and towns it serves. It’s a good idea to look up the train schedules in advance if The Nine Airports of Tohoku & North Kanto and you’re transferring to local lines. If you have a specific destination and you want to get Their Domestic Connections there directly, then consider a night bus. If you have plenty of time, a ferry might be an Aomori Airport (Aomori) 7 Sendai Airport (Miyagi) 1 enjoyable way to travel. New Chitose Airport (Hokkaido), New Chitose Airport (Hokkaido), Narita Tokyo International Airport (Tokyo), International Airport (Chiba), Central Japan Nagoya Airport (Aichi), and Osaka International Airport (Aichi), Komatsu Airport International Airport (Osaka) (Ishikawa), Osaka International Airport (Osaka), Hiroshima Airport (Hiroshima), Fukuoka Airport Trains 2 Misawa Airport (Aomori) (Fukuoka), and Naha Airport (Okinawa) The various Shinkansen lines are a fast and Tokyo International Airport (Tokyo) convenient way to travel from Tokyo. Be sure 8 Fukushima Airport (Fukushima) to look up the train schedules in advance if 3 Akita Airport (Akita) New Chitose Airport (Hokkaido) and you’re transferring to local lines. New Chitose Airport (Hokkaido), Osaka International Airport (Osaka) Tokyo International Airport (Tokyo), Highway Buses Central Japan International Airport 9 Ibaraki Airport (Ibaraki) Night buses run directly from Tokyo to (Aichi), and Osaka International New Chitose Airport (Hokkaido), Kobe many of the described places. They are an Airport (Osaka) Airport (Hyogo), and Naha Airport attractive option because their fares are (Okinawa) relatively inexpensive and the buses reach 4 Iwate Hanamaki Airport (Iwate) their destinations early in the morning. If you want to maximize your itinerary then these New Chitose Airport (Hokkaido), buses are well worth considering. Nagoya Airport (Aichi), Osaka International Airport (Osaka), and Fukuoka Airport (Fukuoka) Cars If you’re planning on crossing the fairly wide 5 Yamagata Airport (Yamagata) expanse of Tohoku and North Kanto, then a rental car may be your most convenient way Tokyo International Airport (Tokyo) to travel. Be aware that the road signs will and Osaka International Airport only be in Japanese in many places. You’ll (Osaka) need an international driver’s license, too.

6 Shonai Airport (Yamagata) Ferries Tokyo International Airport (Tokyo) Ferries run regularly between Hokkaido and Aomori, Hachinohe, Akita, Sendai, and other ports. If you’re looking for a leisurely way to travel, then you’ll want to consider ferries. Airport

Air route

Air Travel Shinkansen bullet train lines It is easy to fly to Tohoku and northern Kanto JR lines from almost anywhere in Japan because the Private rail lines area has nine airports. You’ll probably want to fly if you’re traveling from afar, like Kansai, Expressways Nagoya, or Kyushu. The key to air travel in Japan is to combine planes with trains, Major long-distance bus routes intercity buses, and other transportation. Ferry routes