What the “Trail Eyes” Pros Taught Us About the SHT P H

A publication of the Superior Hiking Trail Association Summer 2019

What the “Trail Eyes” Pros Taught Us About the SHT P h

o im Malzhan is the trail operations director t o o for our sister trail organization the Ice Age b y Fr y Trail Alliance in Wisconsin. Doing business as

SH E T “Trail Eyes,” Tim was one of four entities the SHTA

Tr hired in the fall of 2018 to evaluate and recom- ac mend renewal strategies for what we have dubbed k s

ED mE “The Big Bad Five,” those sections of the SHT most damaged from heavy use and old age (or both). i a Though all four evaluators—Malzhan, Critical Connections Ecological Services (Jason and Amy Husveth), the North Country Trail Association, and

(Continued on page 2) What the “Trail Eyes” Taught Us About the SHT (continued from cover)

Great Lakes Trail Builders (Wil- lie Bittner)—did what we asked (provide specific prescriptions for the Big Bad Five), their expert observations gave us much more: they shed light on the entire Superior Hiking Trail. In other words, what they saw on the Split Rock River loop, or the sections from Britton Peak to Oberg Mountain and Oberg to the Lutsen ski complex, or the proposed reroute of the SHT north of Gooseberry Falls State Park, were microcosms of bigger, more systemic issues with the SHT. ❚ “Keep people on the Trail and water off of it.” This suc- cinct wisdom comes from Matt No bridge is not the only problem at the Split Rock River loop. The Davis of the North Country Trail itself is in bad condition; evaluators recommend relocating it Trail Association, whose evalu- in several places. ation crew noted a serious lack suggestion, as there is no issue of simple but effective devices to shunt water off the Trail, and finding stone around the SHT failed or poorly designed struc- with which to build stairways. tures (i.e. boardwalks) to keep Having these critically im- people on the Trail. portant evaluations (supported ❚ “The Trail here [Split Rock by a grant from Minnesota’s River loop] appeared to be Environmental and Natural Re- ‘walked-in,’ rather than inten- sources Trust Fund) in hand will tionally built.” This observa- guide and advise the SHTA staff tion from Tim Malzhan extends and board in the coming years to the entire SHT. He noted that about what needs to be done to while a natural surface path was renew the SHT. Following are scratched out on the landscape, the priorities we’ve set for each it was not built to modern hiking of the Big Bad Five, rooted in trail standards to withstand the evaluators’ suggestions: heavy use it is getting. Split rock river Loop Evaluators had lots of ideas for ❚ “The Trail in some areas building trail on hillsides, includ- is simply in the wrong place.” This is the most complicated one. ing getting rid of this particular Jason Husveth pointed to several Evaluators suggested, and even construction style. As most trail places where the SHT is routed mapped, significant reroutes to users know, these steps don’t last. through a wetland or the bottom avoid worsening the insidious of a slope—both wet places that erosion that is endemic to that an average of 6.4 years). We esti- will eventually end up muddy. loop. Then there is the bridge mate that loop trail renewal and ❚ “The use of local stone over the Split Rock River: we building a durable bridge could makes so much sense,” found cannot repeat the same mistakes cost upwards of $250,000. Given Willie Bittner, an expert in using there that led to the demise of that the loop is largely within the stone in trail settings. We like this four bridges SHTA built (lasting boundaries of the state park and 2 that it is heavily used by wayside The Superior Hiking visitors, we have reached out to Trail Association is the Minnesota DNR parks and dedicated to building, trails unit to more formally col- managing, renewing laborate on this project. and promoting the Gooseberry Reroute Superior Hiking Trail. The SHT has been disconnected north of Gooseberry Falls State Park since 2015, when a private landowner forbade continued ac- cess through his property. A new route was nearly built, but it was apparent that without over a mile 731 Seventh Avenue, Suite 2 of boardwalk, there would be an- Two Harbors, MN 55616 other long, linear mudhole. Two “The Trail in some areas is simply 218-834-2700 evaluation teams suggested rout- in the wrong place,” suggested www.superiorhiking.org ing the Trail along Skunk Creek, Jason Husveth (right) in his evaluation, completed with assis- STAFF well west of the old route and Denny Caneff, Executive tance from John Storkamp (left). the proposed 2017 reroute. Go- Director Jaron Cramer, Development ing farther west, SHTA staff has reroutes suggested by the evalu- and Communications Director identified more public land that, ators, but complicating decisions Tamer Ibrahim, Trail Operations at first glance, appears to be ideal Director here is the Lutsen Mountains’ Lisa Knight, Administrator terrain for a hiking trail. While ski slope expansion. First prior- Jody Nonnemacher, Trail permits and permissions must ity will be to reroute the messy Information Center Manager come before the first swing of the Jo Swanson, Trail Development segment between the Lutsen Director hoe, we have permission from the trailhead and Mystery Mountain Voyageur Snowmobile Club to campsite. As long-time trail user BOARD OF DIRECTORS use their solid bridges over Skunk and adviser John Storkamp (who Joseph Altendahl, St. Paul Creek and the Gooseberry River. Margaret Arnold, Kimball assisted Jason Husveth’s evalua- Amy Brooks, Duluth (Secretary) tions) put it, “This does more PR Alex Elizabeth, Minneapolis Britton Peak to damage to the Association than Kelsey Jones-Casey, Duluth Karen Ketchmark, Inver Grove oberg Mountain most any other part of the Trail. The evaluators noted the obvi- Heights It is all that some people ever see, Kathy Kelly, Edina (Vice Chair) ous—the trails leading to these and it’s not good.” Tim Kuehn, Bloomington peaks that bookend this section Kevin Pillsbury, Duluth are tattered and need rebuild- Amy Schwarz, St. Paul (Chair) Bean and Bear David Tabaka, St. Paul ing. In addition, this venerable Lakes Loop Tyler Teggatz, St. Paul (Treasurer) section (and Oberg-Lutsen) are Liz Wagner, Tofte We like to call this one “renewal “proto-SHT” in that they were Mike Ward, Duluth by a thousand cuts,” because just Becky Zrimsek, Northfield existing national forest trails the about all the issues the SHT faces SHT was routed onto in the late can be found in these six miles. All photos © SHTA unless other- 1980s. Rerouting the Trail onto wise noted. There is no obvious place to start higher ground in places is the renewal work on this section, but suggested solution for pieces of Volume 34, iS SUE 2 we will build on the renewal pro- this section. cess with trainings providing by Oberg Mountain to evaluators Malzhan and Bittner People. Lutsen Mountains this summer in this section—on Nature. This section, like its kin to the trail building and building with west, is plagued by heavy use stone, respectively. Footpath. and old age. There are several — By Denny Caneff 3 From the Overlook The Only Place(s) thank them for their desire to give you can do just that. We’re excited to Leave A Trace back to the Trail and Association to announce My SHT Map will be through serving on the Board. available later this summer to help f you hiked to the SHT’s south- We also revamped the Board you document your experiences on Iern terminus last year, you member recruitment process this the Trail as you hike from Wisconsin surely noticed the first prototype of year. The changes were telling, as to Canada. our new trail register design. Did you we heard from more than a dozen The coming map (it is in paper, sign the log book? Volunteer extraor- people interested in the three open not digital, form) will be designed dinaire Charlie Gallet created this positions. Some of the improve- both to capture your time on the spiffy new, very blue model, and we ments included: SHT and serve as a wonderful piece recently engaged several other vol- ❚ Notifying SHTA supporters and of art worthy of a spot on your wall. the general public of the three open- We’ve enlisted local artists—car- ings online and in the most recent tographer Matt Kania and painter Ridgeline newsletter. Adam Swanson—to contribute their ❚ Requesting each candidate expertise to this unique project. submit a formal “letter of interest.” Look for more details soon at shop. ❚ Meeting with each candidate in superiorhiking.org or in the Trail In- person. formation Center in Two Harbors. Not only did we find three tal- ented, passionate new board members, but it was also gratifying to meet so many engaged, committed, friendly, trail-loving people interested in giving back to the SHT. Sever- al of the remaining candidates also expressed interest in volunteering Superior Experience: in other ways. This is all good news Next time you visit the world’s Beaver Bay Birding. cutest little waterfall at McCar- for the SHTA! thy Creek, be sure to sign in! Photo (and register installation) by Kirk Rodysill. Track Your Hikes on “My SHT Map” unteers to build and install registers ave you ever wanted a sin- at scenic locations along the 100 or gle map of the entire SHT so miles between that terminus and H uperior Experiences, a new to track your progress on the Trail? the Split Rock River. As for those Sseries of guided adventures We are developing a new map so on the SHT that benefit the Trail, will neglected registers up the Shore? debut on June 22 with a birding ex- Many are scheduled to be replaced pedition in Beaver Bay, led by North soon. Shore birders Jim and Sharon Lind. In this Experience, the Linds Welcome New SHTA will guide you and a small group to hear and see several species Board members of warblers, flycatchers, thrushes, By Kathy Kelly, Board Vice Chair sparrows, and woodpeckers as you e are delighted to an- meander on the SHT through the Wnounce three new Board boreal forest. Back in town after the members: Alex Elizabeth (Minneap- hike, you’ll be treated to a delicious olis), Karen Ketchmark (Inver Grove lunch served by the Camp 61 Res- Heights), and Mike Ward (Duluth). taurant. They joined the Board in May, serv- Now you can document your More Experiences like this are on ing three-year terms, and will jump own “Superior Views” along the the way. Get your tickets today at right in to work with our committees Trail. Painting by Adam Swan- superiorhiking.org/superiorexperi this summer. Please welcome and son (adamswanson.com). ences. 4 Signs matter: they tell you where you are, of course, but they also F i n e project the image or “brand” of the SHT and the organization that manages it. We’ve been committed to improving signage on the Signs SHT (and just off of it). There’s more to do, but here’s a sampler.

- Get Your Trailhead Sign on Route 61 We replaced 19 of those washed-out green metal signs along Hwy. 61 between Castle Danger and Grand Marais. They’re a snappy state park brown color now.

No Overlooking the Overlooks . Volunteer Rebecca Nara installs a new sign for the Hellacious Overlook, way up there between Arrowhead Trail and Jackson Lake Road. Anticipating the one and only Unimpressive Overlook on the SHT is volunteer Amy Carrison. You’ll soon see new signs for some campsites too.

- All Coming To A (trail) Head Coming out of the SHTA’s “clas- sical era” of the late 1980s and early 90s, most of our trailhead signs are aging gracefully. But many of them were littered with extraneous stuff over the years, which will get tidied up. See the difference?

No More Being Out Of The Loop . Look soon for new loop trail maps on Ely’s Peak and Brewer Park (after the upcoming reroute) in Duluth, and on the Leveaux Mountain loop and Bean and Bear Lakes loop.

Many thanks to the Minnesota DNR’s Coastal Program for making the Hwy. 61 signs and loop trail signs possible. And sincere thanks to volunteer Michael Loscheider, whose routing tool and skill is making new wood signs possible again.

5 Trail clearing volunteers A historic windstorm in fall of 2018 brought down hundreds of trees on the northern end of the SHT. This spring, an equally- historic response by SHTA volunteers sought to clear them from the Trail for the benefit of you and thousands of other hikers and runners. In this Superior Hero Tale, we’re pleased to recognize our Trail Clearing Volunteers.

his past April and May, near Hovland. The work was clear it outside of SHTA’s sched- SHTA hosted four trail more difficult than most years, uled events. clearing events that cov- but morale was high and laugh- So it’s all done now, right? ered almost the entire ter harmonized with the roar of Not quite. Our lively, unrelent- TTrail east of Duluth. During chainsaws. Importantly, safety of ing boreal forests ensure trail these events, over 1,200 volun- our volunteers was our top pri- clearing never really ends. And teer hours went into clearing the ority; this challenging work was we’re still battling the damage of Superior Hiking Trail—by far completed without any serious that windstorm in Hovland, so the highest total on record. injuries. expect to find downed trees, es- Steadfast trail clearing vol- At the heart of trail clearing pecially on the far eastern end of unteers came from all over the are our certified sawyers. These the SHT. In the meantime, the state—and even a couple from dedicated volunteers attend majority of the SHT is ready for out of state—to help out. With- chainsaw trainings and main- hiking season. out them, the SHT would be tain first aid/CPR certifications We want to send a special challenging, nigh impossible, in addition to supplying their thank you to all who make a to navigate. Volunteers nego- own equipment and fuel. Many cleared trail possible: our long- tiated a nest of downed trees certified sawyers lead teams of time contractor Han Taylor, sec- near Duluth, trudged through “swampers,” critical helpers who tion adopters, diligent kitchen knee-deep snow near Schroeder, clear debris, during these trail helpers, adventurous swampers, moved through mud puddles in clearing weekends; but many and our dedicated sawyers. The Trail is better because of you. Finland, and worked through other certified sawyers adopt a

windstorm-damaged sections section of the Trail and diligently

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Earlier this winter, a crew of volunteers moved a big pile of heavy building materials by sled to the project site for the Diving Board Mud Pit. here are hundreds of Caribou River. Led by Volunteer discrete projects to take Crew Leader Todd Rowe, work A new route to Brewer Park from on with the SHT. Pri- on a new boardwalk there starts Haines Road will move the SHT away from this wet hillside and ority in almost all cases in early June. onto much drier ground. T ❚ goes to projects that make our Sugarloaf Reroute: A pri- built structures safer, that pro- vate landowner requested that Larry Sampson. tect the land and water the SHT we reroute the Trail away from ❚ Lismore Road Trailhead: passes through, and that a land- their new home. That reroute, The SHT lost a trailhead when owner wants done. Here is a list with about 1,000 feet of new tax-forfeited land was sold to of a few projects we aim to con- trail and led by Volunteer Crew a new private owner, but plan- quer this summer and fall: Leader Stephanie Hoff, should ning is underway to install a new ❚ Pincushion Mountain Re- be completed by the end of June. parking area nearby. We plan to route: 2.5 miles of new trail to ❚ Duluth SHT Projects: Im- get this done quickly once we remove the SHT from a ski trail. proving the Trail on either end of have permission to build. Completion date: October 2019. the Spirit Mountain Recreation A few of these projects will be ❚ Diving Board Mud Pit: Area (trail hardening, elimi- led and completed by trail build- This project got its name from nating a sketchy stairway) and ing contractors, but most will the slab of board sitting on top developing a new route in the benefit from the support of our of a long and wide tract of al- Brewer Park area are happening amazing volunteers. Learn how most pure mud, between Cros- this summer, led by long-time you can get involved at: superior by-Manitou State Park and the SHTA trail renewal consultant hiking.org/volunteer.

There’s nothing quite like an ice-cold ferment after a long hike on the SHT. Our friends at Bent Paddle Brewing Company agree—and later this summer, they will donate proceeds from an upcoming Valve Jockey series An ale brew, titled Nature Moment Blonde Ale. BPBC brewer Sam Bartels, who is leading this project, put it simply, “The SHT is my outdoor lifeblood, and I for the want it to benefit from this Trail Ale.” Bent Paddle plans to host us in their Duluth taproom for a release party August 16 (and you’re invited), and trail their brew crew will spend a day with us working to improve the Trail. ❡ Fine ferment indeed!

7 Each year, the Superior Hiking Trail attracts thousands of visitors from all over the world. Nonprofit Org u.s. Postage Support from SHTA members, Paid donors and volunteers like Duluth, MN 731 Seventh Avenue, Suite 2 Permit No. 1003 you keeps the Trail one of the Two Harbors, MN 55616 finest hiking and running 218-834-2700 destinations in the country. superiorhiking.org

Signs matter: flip to page 5 to read about the new and improved signs coming to the Trail.

Earlier this year, SHTA hosted three Winter Gatherings to engage new members of our community and further our relationships with long-time volunteers. Over Thank you for 175 attendees deepened their knowledge on our Trail Renewal Program and got up to speed on improvements to our Volunteer Program. Missed the Gatherings, gathering with us but want to get involved? Learn more at: superiorhiking.org/volunteer

The First (We Think) Split Pitch In on Rock Bridge the SHT Ah, for the days when building an SHT bridge was a matter of dropping Blue Blaze Blitz: Join the a couple of trees over the river and pounding some decks boards onto Superior Hiking Trail Association’s them—a weekend of fun work for volunteers. This is the first of four effort to re-blaze the Trail. (Blazes are those blue marks you see along bridges over the Split Rock River, built (we believe) in 1991. But rivers the Trail to mark it.) We’re hosting have a way of winning whenever humans try to manage them, and this two Blitz weekends on July 13-14 river leads 4-0 over the Association. and October 5-6. Sign up at: bit.ly/ Building another bridge over that river is complicated: see Page 2. (And BlueBlazeBlitz. if that’s you in this photo, or you know who this hiker is, let us know.) SHT Trail User Survey: This summer, SHTA is conducting a survey of trail users, with support from the University of Minnesota-Duluth, to get a better sense of who uses the Trail, why, how, and their percep- tions and understanding of the SHT. We need your help conducting the survey at SHT trailheads between June and September. Learn more and get registered at: bit.ly/SHT usersurvey.

Find more opportunities to get involved at superiorhiking.org/ calendar or Facebook (@suphike).